基本簡介
科迦寺(si)是(shi)普(pu)蘭縣大(da)(da)寺(si),歷(li)史悠久,在當(dang)地(di)享有(you)(you)盛名,每年(nian)(nian)都(dou)有(you)(you)阿里地(di)區札達、噶爾等縣及境外尼泊爾的(de)信徒前來朝拜(bai)。“文革”期間(jian),寺(si)院(yuan)文物、建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)遭到(dao)嚴重(zhong)破壞,部(bu)(bu)分建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)被(bei)毀(hui),殿(dian)內塑(su)像、壁畫受(shou)損嚴重(zhong)。20世紀(ji)80年(nian)(nian)代以后,對古建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)陸續(xu)進行維修,修復了瑪尼拉康等建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。2001年(nian)(nian)6月25日,科迦寺(si)作為(wei)公(gong)元996年(nian)(nian)的(de)古建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),被(bei)國務院(yuan)列為(wei)全國重(zhong)點文物保護單(dan)位。科迦寺(si)主要(yao)建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)為(wei)覺康和百柱殿(dian),兩殿(dian)呈(cheng)“L”形布(bu)置。覺康位于寺(si)南部(bu)(bu),面(mian)朝北;百柱殿(dian)位于寺(si)西(xi)部(bu)(bu),面(mian)朝東(dong)。兩殿(dian)前有(you)(you)空間(jian)不(bu)大(da)(da)的(de)廣(guang)場,廣(guang)場中部(bu)(bu)有(you)(you)水井、高(gao)大(da)(da)的(de)塔(ta)欽和香爐(lu),廣(guang)場四周的(de)墻壁上(shang)建墻廊(lang),置瑪尼筒,是(shi)該寺(si)進行宗教活動、民間(jian)慶典活動的(de)聚集地(di)。寺(si)廟建筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)周圍還有(you)(you)轉經道(dao)。
歷史傳說
覺康 即釋迦殿,是僧眾聚集(ji)頌經(jing)的(de)場所。覺康由廊院、門廊和(he)殿身三部分組成。
廊(lang)(lang)(lang)院(yuan)(yuan)、門(men)(men)(men)(men)廊(lang)(lang)(lang)體量較小,殿(dian)身(shen)(shen)(shen)體量巨大(da)(da)。覺康外(wai)墻(qiang)均(jun)飾(shi)(shi)紅色,頂部(bu)裝飾(shi)(shi)邊(bian)瑪草。整個(ge)殿(dian)堂外(wai)觀和諧,氣(qi)勢(shi)莊嚴。①廊(lang)(lang)(lang)院(yuan)(yuan)。位于覺康最南(nan)部(bu),20世紀80年代(dai)末增建。廊(lang)(lang)(lang)院(yuan)(yuan)由(you)(you)后建回廊(lang)(lang)(lang)與大(da)(da)殿(dian)門(men)(men)(men)(men)廊(lang)(lang)(lang)共同圍(wei)成。廊(lang)(lang)(lang)院(yuan)(yuan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)側(ce)墻(qiang)壁正中(zhong)設(she)門(men)(men)(men)(men),門(men)(men)(men)(men)兩(liang)(liang)側(ce)懸(xuan)挑斗拱,在門(men)(men)(men)(men)上方(fang)形(xing)(xing)(xing)成凸出(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)屋檐。這種建筑形(xing)(xing)(xing)式是衛藏(zang)地區的(de)(de)(de)(de)常用(yong)手法。院(yuan)(yuan)內(nei)東(dong)西兩(liang)(liang)側(ce)及(ji)門(men)(men)(men)(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)兩(liang)(liang)邊(bian)均(jun)為內(nei)廊(lang)(lang)(lang),計6間(jian),廊(lang)(lang)(lang)下設(she)有(you)藏(zang)床和卡墊,供(gong)人們休息(xi)。②門(men)(men)(men)(men)廊(lang)(lang)(lang)。由(you)(you)門(men)(men)(men)(men)外(wai)敞廊(lang)(lang)(lang)和門(men)(men)(men)(men)內(nei)過廳(ting)組成。敞廊(lang)(lang)(lang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)柱(zhu)、托木(mu)、梁等均(jun)有(you)彩繪,顏色以藍綠色為主。條形(xing)(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)(men)(men)廳(ting)內(nei)無(wu)陳設(she)。③殿(dian)身(shen)(shen)(shen)。平面呈(cheng)(cheng)多邊(bian)“亞”字(zi)形(xing)(xing)(xing),表示(shi)密宗的(de)(de)(de)(de)曼陀羅(luo)。左右沿南(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)軸線對稱,前后不對稱,南(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)長30.5米(mi)(mi),東(dong)西寬21. 9米(mi)(mi)。殿(dian)身(shen)(shen)(shen)大(da)(da)門(men)(men)(men)(men)設(she)于殿(dian)北(bei)(bei)(bei)墻(qiang)正中(zhong),通高3米(mi)(mi),寬2. 3米(mi)(mi)。大(da)(da)門(men)(men)(men)(men)為對開(kai)4扇(shan)板門(men)(men)(men)(men),上有(you)門(men)(men)(men)(men)銜、門(men)(men)(men)(men)環、銅包葉等飾(shi)(shi)物。進入大(da)(da)門(men)(men)(men)(men)是平面呈(cheng)(cheng)“凸”字(zi)形(xing)(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)經堂,南(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)長25米(mi)(mi),東(dong)西寬8.4米(mi)(mi)。扇(shan)面墻(qiang)呈(cheng)(cheng)“U”形(xing)(xing)(xing),與三(san)面邊(bian)墻(qiang)間(jian)形(xing)(xing)(xing)成轉(zhuan)經通道。扇(shan)面墻(qiang)內(nei)側(ce)佛臺供(gong)塑(su)像3尊,均(jun)立像,戴冠(guan),通身(shen)(shen)(shen)飾(shi)(shi)金(jin)。
兩側面(mian)的(de)扇(shan)面(mian)墻上(shang)均繪有(you)壁畫,殿身兩側墻壁布滿(man)直通屋(wu)頂的(de)經書柜。自覺康(kang)東側的(de)露天(tian)臺階可達二層(ceng)(ceng)。二層(ceng)(ceng)房屋(wu)大(da)致呈(cheng)天(tian)井式布局,中央是露天(tian)庭院,四周環以裙(qun)房。底層(ceng)(ceng)天(tian)窗的(de)上(shang)方建有(you)進深2間(jian)(jian)、面(mian)闊(kuo)3間(jian)(jian)的(de)小(xiao)室(shi)。二層(ceng)(ceng)北側、東西兩側各有(you)狹長(chang)形的(de)小(xiao)室(shi)與(yu)中部6間(jian)(jian)大(da)房相(xiang)通,南端有(you)小(xiao)室(shi)3間(jian)(jian)與(yu)敞廊相(xiang)通。從布局看,二層(ceng)(ceng)是聽(ting)經、辯經的(de)場(chang)所。
百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian) 藏(zang)(zang)文(wen)名“嘎加(jia)拉(la)康”。百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)體量較大(da)(da)(da),系由多(duo)座殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)和(he)生活(huo)用(yong)房組合而成的(de)(de)(de)(de)復合建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)。據記(ji)載,百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)科迦(jia)寺(si)最(zui)早(zao)建(jian)(jian)造的(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)遺存(cun)構(gou)件、壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua)等尚能看出早(zao)期建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)痕跡,但殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)后(hou)(hou)(hou)期改建(jian)(jian)較多(duo)。該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)已(yi)較少(shao)使(shi)用(yong),僅二層(ceng)(ceng)僧(seng)(seng)舍、伙房仍在(zai)使(shi)用(yong),主(zhu)(zhu)要的(de)(de)(de)(de)聚會、頌(song)經場所已(yi)移至覺康殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)。百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)科迦(jia)寺(si)重要的(de)(de)(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu),為(wei)該(gai)寺(si)主(zhu)(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)外墻(qiang)(qiang)為(wei)磚紅(hong)色,上(shang)部以(yi)厚重的(de)(de)(de)(de)邊(bian)瑪草裝飾檐(yan)口(kou)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)平面(mian)呈多(duo)邊(bian)“亞”字形(xing),沿東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)軸線基(ji)本(ben)對稱。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)寬33.5米(mi),東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)長(chang)41.9米(mi)。首層(ceng)(ceng)平面(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)布局為(wei)早(zao)期的(de)(de)(de)(de)中(zhong)央(yang)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)環以(yi)小殿(dian)(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)形(xing)式。①主(zhu)(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)大(da)(da)(da)門(men)。大(da)(da)(da)門(men)洞口(kou)高(gao)(gao)3.6米(mi)寬3.48米(mi);門(men)框(kuang)、門(men)檻圍成的(de)(de)(de)(de)門(men)口(kou)高(gao)(gao)2.23米(mi),寬1.59米(mi)。門(men)框(kuang)、門(men)楣(mei)雕刻精美,構(gou)造復雜,是(shi)價值極(ji)高(gao)(gao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)藝術(shu)品(pin)。大(da)(da)(da)門(men)門(men)框(kuang)、門(men)楣(mei)均設多(duo)層(ceng)(ceng)裝飾,層(ceng)(ceng)層(ceng)(ceng)遞收,上(shang)部雕刻有花草、獸鳥、佛像、人物故事、佛龕(kan)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)等。門(men)框(kuang)、門(men)楣(mei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)雕塑形(xing)式,特別是(shi)獅面(mian)及(ji)各(ge)種神(shen)龕(kan)表現的(de)(de)(de)(de)柱(zhu)式、花紋(wen)圖案,反映出佛龕(kan)或(huo)窟的(de)(de)(de)(de)外觀,模(mo)仿了印度(du)或(huo)尼(ni)泊爾的(de)(de)(de)(de)佛教(jiao)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)。據歷(li)史記(ji)載,藏(zang)(zang)傳(chuan)佛教(jiao)后(hou)(hou)(hou)弘期,阿里許多(duo)僧(seng)(seng)眾赴印度(du)、尼(ni)泊爾留學時,帶回許多(duo)當(dang)地的(de)(de)(de)(de)工匠進(jin)阿里營(ying)建(jian)(jian)寺(si)廟,該(gai)大(da)(da)(da)門(men)即是(shi)當(dang)時交流的(de)(de)(de)(de)產物。②底層(ceng)(ceng)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。百柱(zhu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)中(zhong)心,東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)向(xiang)7柱(zhu),南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)向(xiang)4柱(zhu),共(gong)28柱(zhu),室(shi)內(nei)(nei)(nei)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)長(chang)19.8米(mi),南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)寬13.2米(mi)。室(shi)內(nei)(nei)(nei)為(wei)片石(shi)地面(mian),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)原供佛像無存(cun)。天(tian)窗(chuang)后(hou)(hou)(hou)墻(qiang)(qiang)上(shang)繪(hui)有壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua),題材為(wei)釋迦(jia)牟尼(ni)及(ji)兩弟(di)子、羅漢(han)及(ji)兩高(gao)(gao)僧(seng)(seng)。中(zhong)央(yang)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)其他壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua)為(wei)20世紀(ji)80年代重繪(hui)。③南(nan)(nan)(nan)側(ce)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。藏(zang)(zang)文(wen)名“橋居(ju)拉(la)康”,位于中(zhong)央(yang)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)(hou)(hou)腰部,北(bei)(bei)向(xiang)開門(men)。室(shi)內(nei)(nei)(nei)面(mian)闊9.5米(mi),進(jin)深7.6米(mi)。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)南(nan)(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)向(xiang)柱(zhu)3根,東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)向(xiang)柱(zhu)4根,共(gong)用(yong)柱(zhu)12根。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)東(dong)(dong)墻(qiang)(qiang)及(ji)南(nan)(nan)(nan)墻(qiang)(qiang)下有供臺。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)墻(qiang)(qiang)面(mian)殘留有壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua),主(zhu)(zhu)繪(hui)結禪定印、跏趺坐佛及(ji)二侍衛菩薩和(he)多(duo)位佛母,周圍環以(yi)小像。在(zai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)西(xi)(xi)北(bei)(bei)角殘墻(qiang)(qiang)上(shang)有壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua),壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua)風格與古格王(wang)國都城遺址、托林寺(si)十分相(xiang)似。④北(bei)(bei)側(ce)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。藏(zang)(zang)文(wen)名“桑吉拉(la)康”。與南(nan)(nan)(nan)側(ce)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)對稱布置于中(zhong)央(yang)大(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)北(bei)(bei)側(ce)后(hou)(hou)(hou)腰,空間(jian)尺(chi)度(du)與南(nan)(nan)(nan)側(ce)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)基(ji)本(ben)一(yi)致,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)北(bei)(bei)墻(qiang)(qiang)下有供臺,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)無壁(bi)(bi)(bi)畫(hua)。
寺廟文物
科迦寺(si)(si)依地勢(shi)建造(zao),依山傍水,坐南朝北(bei),南北(bei)高(gao)山環抱。整個寺(si)(si)廟殿(dian)宇巍峨(e),各(ge)種大小經堂僧(seng)舍、舍利塔(ta)等(deng)相互映襯。寺(si)(si)廟建筑藝術風格(ge)獨(du)特(te),建造(zao)工藝精良(liang),可惜已有部分損毀;寺(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)原收藏大藏經100余(yu)卷(juan),只(zhi)剩下6卷(juan)真品;殿(dian)內(nei)(nei)壁畫保存(cun)完好,風格(ge)鮮明獨(du)特(te),均為百年珍(zhen)品。
2009年11月(yue) 總投資(zi)1500萬元的西(xi)藏(zang)阿(a)里科迦寺(si)維修(xiu)保(bao)護工程一(yi)期工程近日全部完(wan)工。西(xi)藏(zang)阿(a)里地區(qu)文化局(ju)局(ju)長次仁扎西(xi)表示,即將開始的二期工程將側重科迦寺(si)周邊僧舍和民居(ju)的保(bao)護,力爭使科迦寺(si)及科迦村(cun)作為一(yi)個文化整體呈現在(zai)世(shi)人面(mian)前(qian)。