雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩山(shan)(shan)風(feng)(feng)景區(qu)是村(cun)民(min)(min)集資修(xiu)建(jian)的(de)(de),這其中(zhong)(zhong)飽含著村(cun)民(min)(min)對家鄉(xiang)的(de)(de)熱愛。中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩山(shan)(shan)對于這里(li)的(de)(de)居民(min)(min)來說,不僅僅是一個(ge)旅游勝(sheng)地,更是一個(ge)宗教(jiao)圣地,每天(tian)都有(you)(you)村(cun)民(min)(min)清(qing)晨上山(shan)(shan),攀登(deng)近兩個(ge)小時,去燒香求簽。作為道教(jiao)勝(sheng)地的(de)(de)中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩山(shan)(shan),以其宗教(jiao)的(de)(de)神秘和巍(wei)峨的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)影響著這里(li)的(de)(de)村(cun)民(min)(min),使之形成(cheng)了淳樸而又富有(you)(you)膽(dan)量的(de)(de)風(feng)(feng)俗氣質。古人有(you)(you)語,仁者(zhe)樂山(shan)(shan),智者(zhe)樂水(shui)。山(shan)(shan)水(shui)風(feng)(feng)景,應山(shan)(shan)青可(ke)品水(shui)秀可(ke)賞。景區(qu)以峰(feng)(feng)、巖(yan)、洞(dong)、潭、瀑、湖為勝(sheng)人,尤(you)以山(shan)(shan)湖相映(ying)而獨具特色,古稱“北雁(yan)(yan)(yan)好(hao)峰(feng)(feng)、南雁(yan)(yan)(yan)好(hao)洞(dong)”,而中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)山(shan)(shan)水(shui)結合巧妙,可(ke)謂“中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)好(hao)山(shan)(shan)水(shui)”,中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan),一本外在精美(mei)內涵豐富的(de)(de)書。四方客人有(you)(you)意來讀(du)一讀(du),也會像古代著名(ming)山(shan)(shan)水(shui)詩人謝(xie)靈(ling)運和鄉(xiang)賢、南宋狀元王十朋一樣,發現她許多無可(ke)比擬美(mei),留下為名(ming)山(shan)(shan)增色的(de)(de)瑰麗詩篇。
玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩(dang)山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)圖騰。中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩(dang)較(jiao)早的(de)(de)(de)山(shan)志干(gan)脆就叫《玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)志》,可見(jian)玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)在中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)七大景區中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)地(di)位(wei)之重。“路(lu)從飛(fei)鳥頭上(shang)過,人(ren)在白(bai)云深處(chu)行”,玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)高(gao)聳(song)云天,一峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)獨出(chu),萬峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)伏首。唯(wei)這(zhe)種孤(gu)高(gao)才使登(deng)臨者產生(sheng)“目空一切”的(de)(de)(de)震撼,玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)也當(dang)之無(wu)愧地(di)成為中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩(dang)山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)主(zhu)心骨,而(er)中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)的(de)(de)(de)一切峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)谷云水(shui)有它(ta)來結(jie)構,方不至于散漫無(wu)歸。高(gao)還罷(ba)了(le),這(zhe)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)(de)上(shang)截又有一個美奐美侖、暢曠(kuang)無(wu)倫、洞(dong)中(zhong)(zhong)套洞(dong)的(de)(de)(de)玉(yu)虹洞(dong),而(er)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)(de)極頂(ding)更有一個崗巒起伏的(de)(de)(de)山(shan)水(shui)小世(shi)界,如(ru)此鬼斧神工(gong),真(zhen)深不可測!又稱道士(shi)(shi)巖,狀如(ru)倒扣的(de)(de)(de)銅(tong)鐘,拔(ba)地(di)而(er)起,聲勢逼人(ren)。玉(yu)甑(zeng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)是(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)雁(yan)(yan)(yan)蕩(dang)山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)象(xiang)征(zheng),其(qi)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)腰之下(xia)虹洞(dong),是(shi)開山(shan)祖師--宋進(jin)士(shi)(shi)李少和當(dang)年棲身修煉的(de)(de)(de)所(suo)在。登(deng)上(shang)玉(yu)甑(zeng)極頂(ding),放眼四(si)望,浩(hao)然(ran)之正(zheng)氣油然(ran)而(er)生(sheng)。
三(san)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)(白(bai)石(shi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)、鐘前(qian)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)、龍山湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu))位于(yu)中(zhong)雁(yan)蕩山主峰玉(yu)甑峰下(xia),總面積(ji)為692公頃,總蓄(xu)水(shui)量達3600萬立方米(mi)。這(zhe)里空氣潔凈,環境(jing)宜人(ren)(ren),為泛舟避暑勝(sheng)地(di)(di)。三(san)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)(白(bai)石(shi)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)、鐘前(qian)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)、龍山湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu))是中(zhong)雁(yan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)驕傲。有了這(zhe)三(san)個(ge)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu),中(zhong)雁(yan)在(zai)和(he)(he)別的(de)(de)(de)(de)名(ming)山比美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei)時才顯(xian)得底氣十(shi)足。湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)山如畫,平常的(de)(de)(de)(de)山和(he)(he)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)在(zai)一起時都頓然容光煥(huan)發,何況是中(zhong)雁(yan)那(nei)種(zhong)翠黛般的(de)(de)(de)(de)山和(he)(he)碧(bi)玉(yu)樣(yang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)!三(san)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)柔(rou)美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei),湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)畔諸峰的(de)(de)(de)(de)秀美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei),勢拔五岳的(de)(de)(de)(de)玉(yu)甑峰的(de)(de)(de)(de)壯美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei),這(zhe)眾美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei)薈萃交融的(de)(de)(de)(de)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)山勝(sheng)概,人(ren)(ren)間能得幾回見?作為一項水(shui)利(li)工(gong)程(cheng),這(zhe)三(san)個(ge)人(ren)(ren)工(gong)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)把當年謝靈運“千(qian)頃帶遠(yuan)堤,萬里泄長汀”的(de)(de)(de)(de)夢想變成了現實(shi),妙在(zai)這(zhe)種(zhong)包含功利(li)目(mu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)的(de)(de)(de)(de)人(ren)(ren)巧,竟能和(he)(he)天(tian)工(gong)完(wan)美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei)地(di)(di)熔于(yu)一爐。三(san)湖(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)可謂天(tian)人(ren)(ren)同構山水(shui)之(zhi)美(mei)(mei)(mei)(mei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)一個(ge)范例。
東(dong)漈全長七(qi)(qi)(qi)里,迂回七(qi)(qi)(qi)折,兩岸(an)山石嵯峨,幻化出許(xu)多景觀(guan),它多瀑(pu)多潭(tan)(tan),經(jing)年溪水(shui)(shui)(shui)淙淙。東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)值得稱道的(de)是七(qi)(qi)(qi)曲(qu)下的(de)鐘潭(tan)(tan)和四曲(qu)中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)潭(tan)(tan),前者潭(tan)(tan)上有瀑(pu),瀑(pu)上有潭(tan)(tan),形(xing)、聲、色皆絕(jue);后(hou)者潭(tan)(tan)深水(shui)(shui)(shui)碧,盈而(er)不(bu)涸,令人遐思。東(dong)西二祭(ji)(ji)(音)為玉甑峰的(de)兩翼。西以(yi)峰巖取勝,東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)則(ze)以(yi)瀑(pu)潭(tan)(tan)見長。東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)有溪名東(dong)龍街,迂回潺爰七(qi)(qi)(qi)里,串連(lian)了一系列(lie)各擅勝場的(de)碧潭(tan)(tan):鐘潭(tan)(tan)、連(lian)珠潭(tan)(tan)、小龍潭(tan)(tan)、梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)潭(tan)(tan)、蓮(lian)花(hua)潭(tan)(tan),穿插于這些碧潭(tan)(tan)之間的(de)是浣紗瀑(pu)、馬尾瀑(pu)、梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)瀑(pu)......其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)瀑(pu)和梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)潭(tan)(tan)乃(nai)東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)的(de)點睛之筆(bi),風光(guang)之美(mei)(mei)(mei)絕(jue)勝仙巖之梅(mei)(mei)雨(yu)潭(tan)(tan)。中(zhong)(zhong)雁好水(shui)(shui)(shui)多在三湖、東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)二景區。三湖明凈嫵媚,體現了水(shui)(shui)(shui)靜態美(mei)(mei)(mei),東(dong)祭(ji)(ji)則(ze)呈(cheng)示了水(shui)(shui)(shui)的(de)流動(dong)(dong)活潑之美(mei)(mei)(mei)。中(zhong)(zhong)雁有此動(dong)(dong)靜皆美(mei)(mei)(mei)的(de)水(shui)(shui)(shui)態,與其(qi)山容相映(ying)襯相扶持(chi),自(zi)然格外光(guang)彩照人。
西漈(ji)(音)是一座(zuo)峽谷,其(qi)(qi)谷底(di)之(zhi)石,平坦無沙礫(li),赭色,溪(xi)水流淌,猶如(ru)長(chang)龍游(you)動(dong),故稱“龍街”。龍街逶迤數里。兩(liang)旁峰(feng)巖相疊。步移景換(huan),令人左顧(gu)右盼,目不(bu)暇(xia)接。其(qi)(qi)上游(you)之(zhi)石門瀑(pu)、水簾洞,下游(you)之(zhi)八折(zhe)瀑(pu)、龍山湖,最(zui)有聲色。西祭(音)是中雁的一個華彩樂章。以(yi)奇峰(feng)怪(guai)石為主(zhu)的眾(zhong)多景點沿澗對列,東西綿亙達五(wu)里之(zhi)長(chang),令人目不(bu)暇(xia)接,堪稱天然(ran)畫(hua)屏。西祭(音)的峰(feng)巖姿(zi)態萬千,肖物擬人栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生,可(ke)媲(pi)美(mei)(mei)北雁,而水木。清(qing)華氣韻(yun)靜(jing)穆亦為他處所少見(jian),因而在審美(mei)(mei)上具有很(hen)強的包容性,可(ke)謂雅俗共賞。西結構之(zhi)美(mei)(mei)也令人嘆(tan)為觀止(zhi):自東向西,八折(zhe)瀑(pu)起筆(bi)遒(qiu)勁,足稱“鳳頭”;西龍街至浴牛潭一段為主(zhu)體(ti),內容豐富,神氣飽滿,不(bu)愧(kui)“豬肚”;眼看(kan)山窮水盡之(zhi)際,卻見(jian)峰(feng)回路轉,把一個桃花源般的石門勝境突(tu)然(ran)推(tui)到你面前,看(kan)這(zhe)最(zui)后的一筆(bi)“豹尾”來得多絕!
鳳凰山(shan)在白(bai)石鎮西南(nan)兩公里,屬(shu)中(zhong)(zhong)雁蕩山(shan)的(de)外圍景(jing)區。此處(chu)兩山(shan)夾峙,勢若鳳凰展翅,境(jing)內巖(yan)(yan)巒重疊,林(lin)壑(he)秀美,以峰巖(yan)(yan)為主的(de)各(ge)種景(jing)點多達數(shu)十(shi)處(chu),其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)鷹嘴(zui)、板障、穿(chuan)鼻三巖(yan)(yan)橫空出世,氣勢磅礴,而尤以穿(chuan)鼻巖(yan)(yan)為最(zui)。此巖(yan)(yan)凌空拔起五百余米,與道士(shi)巖(yan)(yan)(玉甑(zeng)峰)遙(yao)相呼(hu)應,俗稱“道士(shi)巖(yan)(yan)影”。山(shan)麓綠水(shui)繞村,平疇遠鋪;山(shan)上(shang)曲徑通幽,花香鳥語;林(lin)間古寺隱約,云煙飄(piao)忽,兼得田園(yuan)和山(shan)林(lin)趣味。此景(jing)區粗看似屬(shu)閑筆,但(dan)若少此一(yi)筆,中(zhong)(zhong)雁便不(bu)免減色。對于中(zhong)(zhong)雁,它是一(yi)個(ge)不(bu)錯的(de)鋪墊,一(yi)個(ge)精彩的(de)預告。
楊(yang)八(ba)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(又(you)稱蓋竹洞(dong)(dong)(dong))是中雁蕩的一(yi)段“引(yin)文(wen)”,它本身也是一(yi)個獨立的作(zuo)(zuo)品(pin)。當中雁蕩還(huan)叫(jiao)作(zuo)(zuo)白石山的時候,它的大名早已載入宋代道書(shu)《云笈七簽》,被尊為“天(tian)(tian)下第十(shi)九洞(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)(tian)”。作(zuo)(zuo)為道教勝地,楊(yang)八(ba)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)有一(yi)種(zhong)濃厚的神話仙語(yu)氛圍,單從那彼(bi)此(ci)套連的八(ba)個洞(dong)(dong)(dong)府(fu)的名字:寶光(guang)、觀(guan)音、透(tou)(tou)天(tian)(tian)、透(tou)(tou)海、龍滾、八(ba)仙、混元、玉蟾、即可見一(yi)端(duan);而滿山谷的松風(feng)竹韻,更使這種(zhong)氛圍得到了強(qiang)化。楊(yang)八(ba)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)還(huan)以巖石勝,其(qi)石擬人象物一(yi)一(yi)酷肖,充滿民(min)間的諧(xie)趣(qu)。畢(bi)竟楊(yang)八(ba)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)在人間而非(fei)天(tian)(tian)上,因(yin)此(ci),不妨(fang)把它看作(zuo)(zuo)中雁蕩引(yin)用的一(yi)個民(min)間故事。
劉公(gong)谷是中雁蕩山(shan)最外(wai)圍的(de)(de)(de)一個景區,它和楊八洞(dong)分處于一山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)兩面。這個斜立的(de)(de)(de)小峽(xia)谷得名于當地歷史上的(de)(de)(de)一位賢(xian)吏的(de)(de)(de)姓氏,這位賢(xian)吏的(de)(de)(de)德政之一是組(zu)織開挖了一條至今(jin)仍在發揮作用的(de)(de)(de)運河。
1、溫州望江路(lu)碼頭渡(du)船至甌(ou)北碼頭,乘(cheng)車到白(bai)石鎮中雁風景區(qu)。
2、火(huo)車(che)站(新南(nan)站)乘白(bai)象(xiang)、柳市(shi)、樂清(qing)專(zhuan)線到白(bai)石鎮中雁風景區。
3、溫州黃龍(long)小(xiao)區專線車(che)直達(da)白石鎮中雁風景區。
4、樂清市(shi)區(qu)、柳市(shi)鎮、北白象(xiang)鎮有公交直達中雁(yan)風景區(qu)。
5、樂清動車站(zhan)直(zhi)接坐公交到白石鎮中(zhong)雁蕩(dang)風景(jing)區。
甬臺溫高速(su)公路,樂清收(shou)費站或大橋(qiao)北收(shou)費站下高速(su),沿(yan)104國道線走。