廣元鶴鳴山(shan)位于(yu)四川省(sheng)廣元市劍閣(ge)縣普安鎮(劍閣(ge)老縣城)東(dong)一公里處。相傳道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)始祖(zu)張(zhang)道(dao)(dao)陵學道(dao)(dao)于(yu)此。相傳古代常有(you)飛鶴棲鳴于(yu)此,道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)創(chuang)始人(ren)張(zhang)陵在(zai)此跨(kua)鶴仙(xian)去而得名。近(jin)年來(lai)有(you)學者認為這(zhe)里是(shi)(shi)張(zhang)陵開創(chuang)五斗米(mi)教(jiao)的(de)發祥地,是(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)勝(sheng)地中的(de)魁首,被稱為“道(dao)(dao)國仙(xian)都(dou)”,是(shi)(shi)中國四大道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)名山(shan)之(zhi)一,歷代來(lai)此觀(guan)光的(de)詩人(ren)墨客都(dou)喜在(zai)此題詩嵌碑、刻石(shi)造像(xiang)、言志抒情。
廣元(yuan)鶴鳴山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢陡(dou)峻,風景秀麗(li),從山(shan)(shan)麓起有石(shi)級(ji)數千(qian),拾級(ji)而(er)上直達山(shan)(shan)巔。清代(dai)建筑的文峰塔(ta)矗(chu)立(li)其頂,山(shan)(shan)脊(ji)蒼(cang)松(song)掩映,山(shan)(shan)間(jian)翠柏蔥蘢。以初唐重建的“重陽亭”為中心,把眾多(duo)的文物(wu)古(gu)跡連成一線(xian),歷來為“登高覽勝”之(zhi)地。現(xian)山(shan)(shan)上開辟了鶴鳴山(shan)(shan)公(gong)園,復建了古(gu)代(dai)建筑風格(ge)和現(xian)代(dai)藝術相結合的亭、臺、樓、閣。
鶴鳴山山頂(ding)北端的文峰白塔(ta),高(gao)21.7 米(mi)(mi),六層八(ba)面(mian)。第(di)一(yi)層外圍塔(ta)柱上(shang)雕(diao)有(you)蟠龍圖案,塔(ta)心中央(yang)有(you)一(yi)塊青(qing)石,石上(shang)雕(diao)有(you)太(tai)極八(ba)卦圖案,是川北與道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)有(you)關的磚石混建塔(ta)。山上(shang)有(you)道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)造(zao)像數十(shi)尊(zun),一(yi)尊(zun)露天,余皆刻于龕(kan)內。露天一(yi)尊(zun)為圓雕(diao)立體像,頭上(shang)有(you)髻,面(mian)頤豐(feng)滿,形象古樸。造(zao)像以高(gao)2米(mi)(mi)的長(chang)生(sheng)保(bao)命天尊(zun)像為代(dai)表(biao)作,足穿道(dao)(dao)靴,身著寬領(ling)大袖道(dao)(dao)袍,神(shen)態(tai)肅(su)穆(mu),為唐大中十(shi)一(yi)年(857年)造(zao)。另有(you)浮(fu)雕(diao)甲胄武士像多組,每組五(wu)、六身,兩眼圓睜,姿態(tai)雄(xiong)偉(wei)。
山頂(ding)處有(you)唐(tang)(tang)、宋、元、明(ming)、清歷代(dai)石(shi)(shi)刻數10處,有(you)道教造像石(shi)(shi)刻、《劍州重陽(yang)亭銘(ming)并序(xu)》碑和《大唐(tang)(tang)中興頌(song)》石(shi)(shi)刻,被公認(ren)為鶴鳴山石(shi)(shi)刻“三絕” 。唐(tang)(tang)代(dai)三絕,就(jiu)是唐(tang)(tang)人留下的古代(dai)文化佳(jia)品。
一絕:李商(shang)隱撰(zhuan)《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》碑(bei)(bei)。重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting),始建于唐(tang)大(da)中(zhong)八年(nian)(公元854年(nian))九月,由(you)劍州(zhou)刺史蔣(jiang)郁監造。因為蔣(jiang)郁意在借重(zhong)(zhong)李商(shang)隱的(de)名(ming)(ming)望,使(shi)自己的(de)政績播美(mei)于當時,留名(ming)(ming)于后世(shi),所以(yi),邀請在梓州(zhou)為官的(de)李商(shang)隱為重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)作銘文(wen)(wen)。千(qian)余年(nian)來(lai),碑(bei)(bei)為亭(ting)(ting)(ting)護,亭(ting)(ting)(ting)以(yi)碑(bei)(bei)聞。亭(ting)(ting)(ting)雖曾有壞(huai)毀,而唐(tang)碑(bei)(bei)卻保(bao)存至今。據(ju)重(zhong)(zhong)修重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)碑(bei)(bei)記:九月建于東山之(zhi)上,坐南朝(chao)北(bei),為重(zhong)(zhong)九登高(gao)觀景之(zhi)所,故以(yi)“重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)”為名(ming)(ming)。北(bei)宋(song)治平年(nian)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)圮碑(bei)(bei)傾(qing),歷經宋(song)、明清、民國初,或修或塌,時有興(xing)替。現存重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)系(xi)仿(fang)唐(tang)建筑風格,占地面積18.5平方米(mi),高(gao)4.4米(mi),灰色卷(juan)脊(ji)屋頂。宋(song)刻“古重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)”四字,刻在亭(ting)(ting)(ting)后正中(zhong)壁上,字跡(ji)精刻鐫深,蒼勁有力。李商(shang)隱所撰(zhuan)的(de)《劍州(zhou)重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)銘》唐(tang)碑(bei)(bei),現存于重(zhong)(zhong)陽(yang)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)側的(de)造像龕內,高(gao)1.88米(mi),寬0.85米(mi),小(xiao)篆(zhuan)書陰刻文(wen)(wen),是研究唐(tang)代文(wen)(wen)化的(de)珍(zhen)貴文(wen)(wen)物。
二(er)絕:《大(da)唐中興(xing)頌》摩崖(ya)石刻。《大(da)唐中興(xing)頌》及(ji)序文(wen)(wen)(wen),是(shi)中唐詩人元(yuan)(yuan)結(jie)于(yu)上元(yuan)(yuan)二(er)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)761年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))秋(qiu)八(ba)月撰寫的。名為頌揚肅宗李亨平定“安(an)史(shi)之亂”開創唐代中興(xing)局(ju)面的偉業(ye),實則是(shi)文(wen)(wen)(wen)辭委(wei)婉,隱含(han)諷(feng)刺,從一(yi)個側面揭露了唐王朝上層統治集團(tuan)的貪婪腐(fu)朽和爭權奪利的斗爭,在(zai)(zai)一(yi)定程序上表現了作者痛恨藩鎮割(ge)據,渴望國家(jia)統一(yi)的政治態度。碑(bei)文(wen)(wen)(wen)是(shi)我國書(shu)(shu)法史(shi)上名家(jia)顏真卿書(shu)(shu)寫的。宋人文(wen)(wen)(wen)潛贊(zan)顏真卿書(shu)(shu)法云:“水部胸中星斗文(wen)(wen)(wen),大(da)師筆下龍蛇字。”千百年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)來,被歷代文(wen)(wen)(wen)人書(shu)(shu)法家(jia)敬仰(yang)。摩崖(ya)石刻通高的313厘(li)米,寬384厘(li)米,自左至(zhi)右豎行陰刻20行,共229字,通體(ti)端莊(zhuang),氣勢(shi)磅礴。碑(bei)文(wen)(wen)(wen)是(shi)大(da)歷七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)772年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))刻在(zai)(zai)湖南祁陽浯溪(xi)石崖(ya)上,又在(zai)(zai)南宋紹熙年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(1195年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))由隆慶府(今劍閣縣)通判吳旰翻刻于(yu)此。至(zhi)今碑(bei)刻完整,顏字風格猶存(cun)。
三(san)絕:摩崖道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)(zao)像。重(zhong)陽亭右(you)側石(shi)(shi)崖上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)唐代(dai)道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)(zao)像,是(shi)(shi)我國(guo)(guo)較大較好的(de)(de)(de)道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)摩崖造(zao)(zao)像,世界美(mei)術(shu)(shu)史、中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)美(mei)術(shu)(shu)史均將(jiang)它(ta)們列入(ru)章目(mu)介(jie)紹。現(xian)存的(de)(de)(de)5龕(kan)造(zao)(zao)像,完整(zheng)者2龕(kan),均為長(chang)生(sheng)保命(ming)天(tian)尊造(zao)(zao)像。“天(tian)尊”是(shi)(shi)道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)尊貴的(de)(de)(de)天(tian)神之(zhi)稱。其(qi)中(zhong)一尊造(zao)(zao)像高1.8米(mi),戴蓮(lian)花冠,著納托,持(chi)法(fa)器站蓮(lian)臺上(shang)肌膚豐腴,莊重(zhong)面善,有濃厚的(de)(de)(de)地方特色。雕刻(ke)家以(yi)概括(kuo)而又簡練的(de)(de)(de)線(xian)條刻(ke)就身形(xing)衣飾(shi),形(xing)象(xiang)(xiang)逼真(zhen),以(yi)工(gong)整(zheng)精巧(qiao)的(de)(de)(de)刀法(fa)刻(ke)就頭、手(shou)、眉、眼,體(ti)現(xian)了(le)“壽比(bi)南山”、“長(chang)生(sheng)不老”的(de)(de)(de)意境與教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)義。龕(kan)兩邊各(ge)有淺浮雕兩組(zu),為文臣、武士、護法(fa)神、妖魔(mo)、供養(yang)人(ren)等。不論是(shi)(shi)手(shou)持(chi)象(xiang)(xiang)笏者、披甲戴盔(kui)者、腰束戰裙者、足踏(ta)妖魔(mo)者,都(dou)各(ge)執劍、叉、索鏈、寶(bao)瓶、法(fa)器,怒目(mu)睹眼,形(xing)態各(ge)異,咄(duo)(duo)咄(duo)(duo)逼人(ren)。其(qi)中(zhong)二尊是(shi)(shi)位于登(deng)豐閣內右(you)龕(kan)的(de)(de)(de)造(zao)(zao)像。像高192厘米(mi),完整(zheng)無損,頸(jing)脖細長(chang),接近(jin)“立七、坐(zuo)五、盤三(san)、臥八”的(de)(de)(de)傳統(tong)人(ren)體(ti)造(zao)(zao)型藝(yi)術(shu)(shu)的(de)(de)(de)頭身比(bi)例。據石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)題記考察,它(ta)是(shi)(shi)唐武宗李炎會昌五年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)845年(nian)(nian))的(de)(de)(de)藝(yi)術(shu)(shu)品。龕(kan)臺下還(huan)刻(ke)有雄獅、麒麟等祥瑞物。唐代(dai)道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)(zao)像石(shi)(shi)窟能保留至今,為難得的(de)(de)(de)文物珍品,1986年(nian)(nian),這里的(de)(de)(de)道教(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)造(zao)(zao)像被選入(ru)《中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)美(mei)術(shu)(shu)全(quan)集(ji)?四(si)川(chuan)石(shi)(shi)窟雕塑》卷,日本學者亦將(jiang)這些(xie)造(zao)(zao)像編入(ru)《世界美(mei)術(shu)(shu)全(quan)集(ji)》里,可見這些(xie)造(zao)(zao)像的(de)(de)(de)文物藝(yi)術(shu)(shu)價值之(zhi)高。
此(ci)外(wai),鶴鳴山還(huan)有(you)“一郡奇(qi)觀”題刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)《摩(mo)崖(ya)碑(bei)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)記》、明正(zheng)德(de)十(shi)(shi)四的(de)(de)(de)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)(de)《劍州再(zai)建重(zhong)陽亭(ting)(ting)(ting)記》、正(zheng)德(de)卯寅摩(mo)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)(de)《重(zhong)陽亭(ting)(ting)(ting)詩有(you)跋》、清同治十(shi)(shi)年鐫(juan)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)(de)《重(zhong)修摩(mo)崖(ya)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)碑(bei)記》、光緒二十(shi)(shi)六年鐫(juan)刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)的(de)(de)(de)《重(zhong)修重(zhong)陽亭(ting)(ting)(ting)碑(bei)》等(deng)石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)。這些石刻(ke)(ke)(ke)(ke)藝術(shu)珍品(pin)是(shi)古代勞(lao)動(dong)人民(min)智慧的(de)(de)(de)結晶。1962年在鶴鳴山墾(ken)荒(huang)造林(lin)出土的(de)(de)(de)宋(song)代道(dao)教祭(ji)祀用品(pin)有(you)銅壺、銅瓶、銅醮(jiao)斗等(deng);還(huan)有(you)宋(song)代龍泉窟產的(de)(de)(de)精(jing)品(pin)“蓮瓣(ban)紋豆青瓷碗”,經專家鑒定(ding)為國家一級文物(wu)。
張陵創立五斗米道
張陵(34—156),中國東漢五斗米道創立者。后改名張道陵,字輔漢,敬為張天師。沛國豐邑(今江蘇豐縣)人。少時(shi)喜讀河(he)(he)洛圖諱、天文地理之(zhi)(zhi)書。曾(ceng)入太(tai)學(xue),通(tong)達五(wu)(wu)(wu)經,又好黃老(lao)(lao)之(zhi)(zhi)學(xue),舉薦“賢良方正(zheng)(zheng)直言(yan)極諫科”。漢明帝時(shi)曾(ceng)任(ren)巴郡江州(今四川重慶)令,后隱居(ju)北(bei)邙山(今河(he)(he)南洛陽北(bei)),修(xiu)煉長(chang)(chang)生之(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。朝廷久征(zheng)不(bu)就。東漢順(shun)帝時(shi),修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)于(yu)(yu)鵠鳴(ming)山(今四川大邑縣境內),創立五(wu)(wu)(wu)斗(dou)米道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。教(jiao)(jiao)門中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)尊老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)為(wei)教(jiao)(jiao)主,以(yi)(yi)《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)五(wu)(wu)(wu)千言(yan)》為(wei)經典,自稱太(tai)上(shang)(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,授為(wei)“三(san)天法(fa)師(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)真人”。制(zhi)作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書24篇,建立24治(zhi)區,各治(zhi)立道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)官祭酒,以(yi)(yi)統治(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)。道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)有(you)犯小過(guo)者以(yi)(yi)悔過(guo)自新為(wei)奉(feng)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)之(zhi)(zhi)主旨,并用符(fu)水咒法(fa)為(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)民(min)治(zhi)病。傳有(you)弟子(zi)(zi)王長(chang)(chang)、趙升等(deng)。子(zi)(zi)孫世襲(xi)天師(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)號,歷(li)代帝君皆加有(you)封(feng)號。東漢順(shun)帝(126—144年)時(shi),張陵(ling)聞蜀地多名(ming)山,民(min)風淳厚,易于(yu)(yu)教(jiao)(jiao)化,于(yu)(yu)是(shi)攜弟子(zi)(zi)入蜀,居(ju)住(zhu)在鶴鳴(ming)山(又名(ming)鵠山)修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)。精思煉志數年,著作道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)書二(er)(er)十四篇。感太(tai)上(shang)(shang)親降,授以(yi)(yi)《三(san)天正(zheng)(zheng)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)科術要(yao)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)法(fa)》、《正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威(wei)妙經》、《三(san)業六通(tong)之(zhi)(zhi)訣》,命(ming)為(wei)天師(shi)。于(yu)(yu)是(shi),張陵(ling)以(yi)(yi)鶴鳴(ming)山為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)設(she)二(er)(er)十四治(zhi),是(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的基層組織與(yu)活(huo)動中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)心(xin)。初設(she)二(er)(er)十四治(zhi),主要(yao)集中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)在蜀漢地區,后為(wei)與(yu)二(er)(er)十八宿相(xiang)配,乃增至二(er)(er)十八治(zhi),其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)陽平(ping)治(zhi)是(shi)正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威(wei)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)的總部。傳太(tai)上(shang)(shang)正(zheng)(zheng)一(yi)盟威(wei)之(zhi)(zhi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao),奉(feng)老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)為(wei)教(jiao)(jiao)祖,尊稱太(tai)上(shang)(shang)老(lao)(lao)君,以(yi)(yi)《老(lao)(lao)子(zi)(zi)五(wu)(wu)(wu)千文》為(wei)主要(yao)經典,創立了(le)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)教(jiao)(jiao)。
張陵(ling)初(chu)創的(de)正(zheng)一盟(meng)威道(dao)(dao),其(qi)(qi)主(zhu)要經(jing)典有《老子五(wu)千文》、《太(tai)平洞極經(jing)》等(deng)。其(qi)(qi)主(zhu)要宗教活動是:誦習五(wu)千文;有罪首(shou)過;符水治病;用章表與鬼神為誓約。其(qi)(qi)組織制度主(zhu)要是:各治置祭酒(jiu),以領道(dao)(dao)民。并規定按時“付天(tian)倉”及“三會”。付天(tian)倉,即(ji)(ji)奉道(dao)(dao)者于十月一日向天(tian)師(shi)、祭酒(jiu)交納信米五(wu)斗;三會,即(ji)(ji)奉道(dao)(dao)者一年三次(正(zheng)月七(qi)日、七(qi)月七(qi)日、十月五(wu)日)朝(chao)會天(tian)師(shi)治。