簡介
位于山(shan)(shan)東省泰(tai)安市城區北(bei),與濟南市接界地(di)區。泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)居中國五岳(yue)(泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)、崇山(shan)(shan)、華山(shan)(shan)、恒山(shan)(shan)、衡山(shan)(shan))之首(shou),號稱東岳(yue)。山(shan)(shan)上(shang)山(shan)(shan)下文物(wu)古(gu)跡(ji)遍布,有東方文物(wu)寶庫之稱。寺(si)廟宮觀古(gu)建筑多(duo)達30多(duo)座。主要有泰(tai)安城區岱(dai)廟、遙參亭,泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)麓的(de)岱(dai)宗坊、紅門(men)宮,山(shan)(shan)腰王(wang)母(池)殿(dian)、普照寺(si)、斗母宮、中天門(men),岱(dai)頂南天門(men)、天街坊、碧霞祠,玉皇(頂)廟,泰(tai)山(shan)(shan)西北(bei)靈巖寺(si)、無極廟等。
其中,岱(dai)廟是歷代帝王泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)封禪大(da)典(dian)之地(di),創建(jian)于秦漢(han),唐宋(song)(song)金元至明清屢有(you)(you)修建(jian),北宋(song)(song)宣(xuan)和年間(jian)(1119-1125年)泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)(shan)上下殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、寢、堂、閣、亭、館、樓(lou)、觀、廊、廡(wu)等(deng)有(you)(you)813楹。現有(you)(you)主(zhu)建(jian)筑天貺(kuang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)與北京(jing)太和殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、曲阜大(da)成殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)同稱中國三大(da)古宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)。山(shan)(shan)上碧霞祠始建(jian)于宋(song)(song),明清均有(you)(you)增修,成為規模宏大(da)的高山(shan)(shan)古建(jian)筑。山(shan)(shan)陰靈巖(yan)寺在濟南長清區,盛于唐宋(song)(song),曾有(you)(you)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)閣達40多座、禪房500多間(jian)。寺內千(qian)佛殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)彩塑(su)羅漢(han)有(you)(you)“海內第一名塑(su)”之譽。
泰(tai)山風(feng)景名勝以雄偉著稱,海拔1545米,地質歷史平局年(nian)齡30億年(nian)以上,山體(ti)分(fen)三層(ceng)臺階式地質結構,猶如登天(tian)臺階,坐北朝南,山體(ti)通(tong)(tong)體(ti)打開,一眼(yan)望(wang)遍全山,如佛似坐。一座主(zhu)峰玉皇頂,直通(tong)(tong)云(yun)霄。一條(tiao)10.1公(gong)里的(de)登封(feng)盤路御(yu)道,一線(xian)通(tong)(tong)線(xian)。泰(tai)山主(zhu)峰為中心,呈放射狀分(fen)布,由自(zi)然景觀與(yu)人(ren)(ren)文(wen)景觀融合(he)而(er)成。從祭地經帝王行宮的(de)岱廟,到封(feng)天(tian)的(de)玉皇頂,構成長達十公(gong)里的(de)地府——人(ren)(ren)間——天(tian)堂的(de)一條(tiao)軸線(xian)。
一路(lu)攀登(deng)(deng)(deng),體(ti)會祖先,感(gan)(gan)受歷史,登(deng)(deng)(deng)高必(bi)自!穿(chuan)過(guo)秦(qin)漢始建的岱廟,走過(guo)孔子登(deng)(deng)(deng)臨出,穿(chuan)紅門,過(guo)明代萬(wan)仙(xian)樓(lou),看北齊(qi)經(jing)石峪(yu)-金剛經(jing)石刻(ke),越中(zhong)天(tian)(tian)門,看望人迎客松,走龍門,過(guo)升仙(xian)坊,攀登(deng)(deng)(deng)十八盤(pan),逛天(tian)(tian)街(jie),游宋(song)朝碧霞(xia)祠,閱唐(tang)玄宗大觀峰,登(deng)(deng)(deng)觀日(ri)峰望海石,后(hou)山(shan)天(tian)(tian)燭(zhu)峰看-姊妹松,堯(yao)觀頂,拜高山(shan)第(di)一孔子廟,回看五(wu)岳獨尊,登(deng)(deng)(deng)臨敕(chi)修玉皇頂,看秦(qin)皇漢武無字碑(bei),古封(feng)禪臺(tai)。看玉皇極(ji)頂那對聯:“地(di)到無邊天(tian)(tian)做岸(an),山(shan)登(deng)(deng)(deng)絕頂人為峰!”遙望黃河,看東方(fang)云海日(ri)出,祈福(fu)國泰民安!感(gan)(gan)受泰山(shan)天(tian)(tian)下雄!一覽眾山(shan)小!
泰山盤道古建筑群
據文獻記(ji)載,泰(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路(lu)辟建(jian)(jian)(jian)于漢(han)代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai),稱為環道(dao)(dao),歷代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)重修,現(xian)存大(da)部(bu)為明(ming)代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)。泰(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路(lu)沿(yan)途的(de)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun),或(huo)創建(jian)(jian)(jian)于漢(han)魏(wei)或(huo)創建(jian)(jian)(jian)于唐宋,元、明(ming)、清續(xu)建(jian)(jian)(jian),現(xian)存少部(bu)分為明(ming)代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)風格(ge),大(da)部(bu)分為清代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)風格(ge),泰(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)道(dao)(dao)系古代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)帝王封禪泰(tai)山(shan)時舉行祭天(tian)儀(yi)式時所(suo)修建(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)登山(shan)御道(dao)(dao),古建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)多是歷代(dai)(dai)(dai)(dai)帝王封禪或(huo)祭祀泰(tai)山(shan)時的(de)齋沐、駐蹕之(zhi)所(suo)。泰(tai)山(shan)中路(lu)全長9公里,盤(pan)道(dao)(dao)占8公里。古建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)多跨盤(pan)道(dao)(dao)而建(jian)(jian)(jian)或(huo)構(gou)筑(zhu)于盤(pan)道(dao)(dao)之(zhi)側。泰(tai)山(shan)上(shang)下較(jiao)重要(yao)的(de)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)有(you)關帝廟、王母池、紅(hong)門、斗母宮(gong)、壺天(tian)閣、南天(tian)門、碧霞祠(ci)、玉皇(huang)頂(ding)、后石塢(wu)、普照寺、靈應(ying)宮(gong)、萬(wan)仙樓、三官(guan)廟、五松亭(ting)、孔子廟、青(qing)帝宮(gong)、三陽觀、五賢祠(ci)、烈士祠(ci)等(deng)。此(ci)外,沿(yan)途還有(you)眾多的(de)亭(ting)、坊、橋等(deng)單體石質建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)。
泰山盤道古建筑群歷史沿革
漢光武帝建武中元元年(公元56年)辟(pi)建泰山盤道(dao),稱(cheng)為環(huan)道(dao)。
漢獻帝建安十一年(nian)(公元207年(nian))前(qian)已有王母廬、岱頂五帝觀等建筑。
南北朝時(shi)期(qi)(公(gong)元420——589年)創建普照(zhao)寺。
大(da)中祥符(fu)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1008年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))宋真宗封(feng)禪泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)時(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)玉女祠(即(ji)今碧霞(xia)(xia)祠)。宋皇(huang)佑五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1053年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)王(wang)母(mu)池。元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)代中統元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1260年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))道士(shi)張志純創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)(jian)南(nan)天門(men)、摩空閣(ge)。明(ming)(ming)(ming)初創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)(jian)關帝(di)廟(miao),重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)紅門(men)宮、斗母(mu)宮、三(san)官(guan)廟(miao)、壺天閣(ge)、元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君廟(miao)、依山(shan)亭(ting)(ting)、金星亭(ting)(ting)、三(san)大(da)士(shi)殿、五松亭(ting)(ting)、青帝(di)宮。明(ming)(ming)(ming)成(cheng)化(hua)、弘治、嘉靖(jing)(jing)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)對泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)古(gu)(gu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)及泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路進行了拓建(jian)(jian)(jian)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)。明(ming)(ming)(ming)嘉靖(jing)(jing)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)十(shi)(shi)一年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1532年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))改(gai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)三(san)賢祠。明(ming)(ming)(ming)萬(wan)歷(li)(li)(li)十(shi)(shi)五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1583年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)紅門(men)宮、飛(fei)云閣(ge)、更衣亭(ting)(ting)、且止亭(ting)(ting)。萬(wan)歷(li)(li)(li)十(shi)(shi)九年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1591年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)后石塢廟(miao)。萬(wan)歷(li)(li)(li)四(si)十(shi)(shi)八年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1620年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)萬(wan)仙樓。萬(wan)歷(li)(li)(li)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1573——1620年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)(jian)孔子廟(miao)。明(ming)(ming)(ming)天啟六年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1626年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)紅門(men)西院元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君殿。清順(shun)治年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)對泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)古(gu)(gu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)進行全面修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)。康熙(xi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1662年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)——1723年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))圣祖玄燁(ye)登泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)祀(si)奉山(shan)神、碧霞(xia)(xia)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)君時(shi)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)(qun)。乾隆年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1736——1796年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路古(gu)(gu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)(qun)。道光元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)至(zhi)十(shi)(shi)五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1821——1835年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路古(gu)(gu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)(qun),道光七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)1827年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))建(jian)(jian)(jian)夢仙龕。清末及民國年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)又對泰(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路古(gu)(gu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)(qun)進行了多次整修(xiu)。
解放后,黨和政府非常(chang)重(zhong)視泰山(shan)文(wen)物古(gu)跡的保護管理。分別于1956年(nian)、1959年(nian)、1978年(nian)、1984年(nian)、1994年(nian)、2000年(nian)對盤路(lu)及古(gu)建(jian)筑群進(jin)行了(le)大規(gui)模整修。
1987年12月,聯(lian)合國教科文(wen)(wen)組織將(jiang)泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)列(lie)為世界自然文(wen)(wen)化遺產,泰(tai)(tai)山(shan)盤(pan)路(lu)古(gu)建筑是(shi)其主要內容之一。
關帝廟
在岱(dai)宗坊北一里,泰(tai)山(shan)盤道(dao)起點處西側,是(shi)泰(tai)山(shan)中路的第一組古(gu)建筑。關帝廟(miao)東(dong)西寬74米(mi)(mi)(mi)、南(nan)北長80米(mi)(mi)(mi),總面積5920平方(fang)米(mi)(mi)(mi)。分(fen)為東(dong)西兩部(bu)分(fen)。東(dong)為關帝廟(miao),西為山(shan)西會館。關帝廟(miao)由影壁、南(nan)山(shan)門(men)(戲樓)、拜棚、東(dong)西配殿(dian)、正殿(dian)后殿(dian)等成(cheng)。山(shan)西會館是(shi)山(shan)西客商祭祀關帝的地方(fang),包括正殿(dian)、左右(you)配殿(dian)等。關帝廟(miao)院內(nei)有“漢(han)柏第一”、唐槐等古(gu)樹名木。關帝廟(miao)創建于明初,清康熙、乾隆、咸豐年間多次重修。
王母池
位于關帝廟東南300米(mi)(mi)處,整(zheng)座院落南北長101.4米(mi)(mi),東西寬53米(mi)(mi),總面積約5374.2平方米(mi)(mi)。
王母(mu)(mu)池(chi)廟(miao)由(you)影壁、香火池(chi)、山(shan)門(men)、王母(mu)(mu)池(chi)、王母(mu)(mu)殿、觀(guan)瀾亭(ting)、藥王殿、北斗(dou)殿、悅(yue)山(shan)亭(ting)、七真殿和蓬萊閣等組(zu)成。每年陰歷三月(yue)三,全國各地的香客在此舉行廟(miao)會(hui),慶賀王母(mu)(mu)圣誕。院內(nei)王母(mu)(mu)泉、王母(mu)(mu)池(chi)水清澈見底,常年不息(xi),古柏參天交柯,風景優美。院外有虬(qiu)在灣、呂祖洞(dong)、八仙(xian)橋等文物古跡。
王母池漢代稱王母廬,唐代稱瑤池。自元(yuan)至清多次重修。
南天門(men)/泰山古建(jian)筑群
南天門又稱三天門,在十(shi)(shi)八盤(pan)盡頭。十(shi)(shi)八盤(pan)兩(liang)側(ce)(ce)峭崖(ya)對(dui)峙(zhi),東為(wei)飛(fei)龍巖,西為(wei)翔鳳嶺。南天門坐落在兩(liang)嶺的狹口之(zhi)上,由下(xia)仰視猶如(ru)天上宮闕,為(wei)跨(kua)盤(pan)道而建的城門樓式建筑(zhu)。下(xia)層拱形門洞題名是“南天門”,上層題名“摩空閣”,兩(liang)側(ce)(ce)對(dui)聯:“門辟九霄仰步(bu)三天勝跡,階(jie)崇萬(wan)級俯臨千嶂(zhang)奇觀(guan)”,道出(chu)了該(gai)處之(zhi)形勝。
南天(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)北有唐代創(chuang)建的三靈(ling)侯殿(后更(geng)名關(guan)帝廟,今名“未了軒(xuan)”)及東西配殿。南天(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)西側(ce)石(shi)棚內壁有“天(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)銘”石(shi)碑,元(yuan)中統(tong)元(yuan)年(nian)(公元(yuan)1260年(nian))杜仁杰撰文(wen)、嚴忠(zhong)范書,記述(shu)了張煉師(shi)創(chuang)建南天(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)的經過。南天(tian)(tian)門(men)(men)下有升仙坊和(he)壽(shou)星亭。
碧霞祠
碧(bi)霞祠(ci)創建于宋真(zhen)宗大中祥符(fu)元年(1008),始稱“昭真(zhen)祠(ci)”,金(jin)代稱“昭真(zhen)觀”,明代改名“靈(ling)佑宮”,清乾隆三十五年(1770)重修,改今名。
碧霞祠由照壁、金藏庫(火池)、南神門、東(dong)(dong)神門、西神門、歌舞(wu)樓(lou)、東(dong)(dong)西閣樓(lou)、鐘鼓(gu)樓(lou)、大山門、東(dong)(dong)西御(yu)碑亭、香亭、東(dong)(dong)西配殿(dian)、大殿(dian)組成。
正殿(dian)九(jiu)脊(ji)(ji)歇山頂(ding),供碧(bi)霞元(yuan)君、眼(yan)光奶奶、送子娘(niang)娘(niang)及各(ge)二侍(shi)女銅(tong)像(xiang),原為歷代帝王祭(ji)祀之所。殿(dian)頂(ding)螭吻(wen)、大脊(ji)(ji)、垂脊(ji)(ji)、垂獸、走獸、博(bo)脊(ji)(ji)、蓋瓦(wa)、檐頭(tou)上的行(xing)龍等皆為銅(tong)鑄,雕鑄的鳳凰、纏(chan)枝花(hua)紋(wen)、八(ba)仙等紋(wen)飾(shi)生動精(jing)美(mei)。
香亭內供(gong)碧霞(xia)元君、東配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)供(gong)眼光奶奶,西配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)供(gong)送子娘(niang)娘(niang),原為(wei)民間香客祭拜之處。東西配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)的吻(wen)、脊(ji)、獸、蓋瓦等皆為(wei)鐵(tie)鑄(zhu)(大山(shan)門同)。香亭為(wei)黃(huang)琉璃瓦九脊(ji)重(zhong)檐歇(xie)山(shan)頂。
院內有明(ming)嘉(jia)靖十九年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元1540年(nian)(nian)(nian))北京(jing)房山(shan)縣(xian)所獻的(de)“千斤鼎”銅鼎,明(ming)萬(wan)(wan)歷十七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元1589年(nian)(nian)(nian))所鑄的(de)萬(wan)(wan)歲樓,明(ming)萬(wan)(wan)歷四十三年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元1615年(nian)(nian)(nian))所鑄的(de)“敕(chi)修泰(tai)山(shan)天仙金(jin)闕(que)碑(bei)(bei)”銅碑(bei)(bei),明(ming)天啟五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(公元1625年(nian)(nian)(nian))所鑄的(de)“欽(qin)修泰(tai)岳(yue)大(da)(da)功告成賜靈佑宮(gong)金(jin)碑(bei)(bei)”銅碑(bei)(bei)。大(da)(da)山(shan)門內外有青龍、白虎、文(wen)曲(qu)、武(wu)曲(qu)四神像(xiang)。
據(ju)文(wen)獻記載,此處漢代原有石雕金(jin)童玉(yu)女(nv)像。宋真(zhen)宗(zong)大(da)(da)中祥符元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(公(gong)元(yuan)1008年(nian)(nian))封禪泰山時,鑿龕雕玉(yu)女(nv)像,創建玉(yu)女(nv)祠,金(jin)改昭真(zhen)觀,明洪武年(nian)(nian)間(jian)重修(xiu),成化、弘治、嘉靖年(nian)(nian)間(jian)拓建正殿,施銅構件(jian),萬歷、天啟年(nian)(nian)間(jian)重修(xiu),清代亦(yi)多次重修(xiu)。現存建筑(zhu)保存了大(da)(da)量元(yuan)明構件(jian)及其建筑(zhu)風格(ge)。
明嘉靖、萬歷、天啟諸帝(di)(di)均遣官致祭。清代康熙、乾隆皇(huang)帝(di)(di)多(duo)次在此祭祀碧霞元君,東西御(yu)碑(bei)亭現存(cun)康熙、乾隆皇(huang)帝(di)(di)漢白(bai)玉詩碑(bei)。
祠(ci)分(fen)前后(hou)兩(liang)院,正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)5間(jian),在北院,面(mian)闊24.7米,進(jin)深15.1米,通高(gao)(gao)13.7米,四柱七架(jia)梁,十一檁前后(hou)廊式,九脊(ji)歇(xie)山(shan)頂(ding),四角施角柱,檐(yan)柱施斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),柱頭(tou)科(ke)(ke),單(dan)(dan)杪雙(shuang)下昂六(liu)踩(cai),斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)承(cheng)托(tuo)(tuo)挑尖梁頭(tou),平(ping)身科(ke)(ke),正(zheng)間(jian)、次間(jian)、梢(shao)間(jian)分(fen)別為6、5、4個(ge)。斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)承(cheng)托(tuo)(tuo)螞蚱頭(tou),角科(ke)(ke)單(dan)(dan)翹重(zhong)昂七踩(cai),轉(zhuan)角斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)上(shang)承(cheng)托(tuo)(tuo)寶瓶,歇(xie)山(shan)檐(yan)下及后(hou)檐(yan)下亦施斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),形狀與前面(mian)相(xiang)同。屋(wu)面(mian)瓦(wa)(wa)壟360條(tiao),象征(zheng)周天(tian)之數,為防高(gao)(gao)山(shan)大(da)風,明(ming)時蓋瓦(wa)(wa)均(jun)為鐵鑄(zhu),清初易為銅瓦(wa)(wa)。大(da)脊(ji)上(shang)飾雙(shuang)鳳纏枝(zhi)花紋(wen),戧脊(ji)有(you)六(liu)走獸和(he)一個(ge)仙人,檐(yan)上(shang)瓦(wa)(wa)釘(ding)處飾立(li)體(ti)走龍,均(jun)為銅鑄(zhu)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)槽(cao)柱上(shang)施四柁隔架(jia)斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),柱上(shang)施井(jing)(jing)字形天(tian)花板,正(zheng)間(jian)內(nei)斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong)相(xiang)圍呈八角形藻井(jing)(jing),中間(jian)有(you)浮雕盤龍戲珠。大(da)殿(dian)(dian)正(zheng)間(jian)和(he)兩(liang)次間(jian)均(jun)設石雕仰復蓮(lian)紋(wen)須彌座(zuo)神臺,供奉(feng)碧霞元君神像。大(da)殿(dian)(dian)建筑雄偉華麗,是(shi)泰山(shan)僅次于岱廟(miao)天(tian)貺殿(dian)(dian)的(de)第二大(da)建筑。
縱觀(guan)碧霞(xia)祠整個建(jian)筑群,由于地(di)形限制,南北長70米,東(dong)西寬(kuan)僅36米,總面積不過2500余平方米,但(dan)是(shi)它給人的(de)感覺卻(que)森嚴宏大,毫不顯局促(cu)狹小,顯示了(le)古(gu)代建(jian)筑者因勢而宜的(de)高妙的(de)建(jian)筑藝(yi)術水平和(he)技巧。
碧霞祠(ci)選址于天(tian)街東(dong)(dong)端地勢(shi)陡然(ran)抬(tai)起之(zhi)(zhi)處,前院設有東(dong)(dong)、西(xi)(xi)、南3座高(gao)(gao)(gao)大的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)神(shen)(shen)門(men)。游人(ren)一(yi)般自(zi)天(tian)街東(dong)(dong)來,有西(xi)(xi)神(shen)(shen)門(men)進(jin)祠(ci),而西(xi)(xi)神(shen)(shen)門(men)下(xia)是(shi)峭拔如(ru)十八盤(pan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)百(bai)余級連續的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)臺階,由此進(jin)得(de)祠(ci)來,忽(hu)見樓臺嚴整(zheng),氣氛肅穆,同天(tian)街風情迥(jiong)然(ran)不(bu)同,人(ren)們首(shou)先(xian)感(gan)(gan)到了碧霞祠(ci)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)赫(he)赫(he)氣勢(shi)。東(dong)(dong)神(shen)(shen)門(men)與(yu)西(xi)(xi)神(shen)(shen)門(men)相通(tong),通(tong)往(wang)玉(yu)皇頂的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)盤(pan)道就在(zai)前院之(zhi)(zhi)中,且(qie)往(wang)南又開有南神(shen)(shen)門(men),人(ren)在(zai)此視(shi)野并(bing)未被(bei)封閉,因此小的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)空間(jian)便產生(sheng)了大的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)空間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)感(gan)(gan)覺。而且(qie)北面,碧霞祠(ci)山門(men)高(gao)(gao)(gao)高(gao)(gao)(gao)屹立(li),不(bu)進(jin)山門(men)仍不(bu)知(zhi)祠(ci)內復有何物,使人(ren)更(geng)生(sheng)神(shen)(shen)秘之(zhi)(zhi)感(gan)(gan),猶(you)覺此祠(ci)非(fei)同小可。及至進(jin)到北院,大殿之(zhi)(zhi)前有九脊重檐(yan)、黃琉璃蓋瓦的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)香(xiang)亭居中,亭兩側又有銅鑄(zhu)“金碑”,亭前又有千斤鼎、萬歲樓,令人(ren)目不(bu)暇接,愈加感(gan)(gan)到了這(zhe)里的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)不(bu)同尋常。而如(ru)果(guo)不(bu)如(ru)此布置(zhi),設若(ruo)祠(ci)內空無一(yi)物,一(yi)覽無余,區區300余平方米的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)天(tian)井,又怎能有此等韻味與(yu)效果(guo)呢(ni)?
泰(tai)山碧霞祠建(jian)筑(zhu)群以其(qi)高超(chao)的建(jian)筑(zhu)藝(yi)術(shu)受到了(le)建(jian)筑(zhu)學(xue)界的高度稱(cheng)贊,認為(wei)它(ta)是高山建(jian)筑(zhu)中獨具一格的神品(pin)。
泰山盤路
泰(tai)山(shan)盤路(lu)(lu)自關帝廟(miao)始,其(qi)北有“盤路(lu)(lu)起工(gong)處”碑。泰(tai)山(shan)盤路(lu)(lu)沿中溪達(da)玉皇(huang)頂,是(shi)古代(dai)帝王登封泰(tai)山(shan)的御(yu)道,總(zong)長度(du)約(yue)9000米。
泰山(shan)形成于太古代第一(yi)次造山(shan)運動(dong),從岱廟(miao)北到(dao)中天門、南天門形成三(san)級(ji)(ji)斷層逐級(ji)(ji)抬(tai)升的(de)階梯狀。從關帝廟(miao)到(dao)壺天閣為(wei)(wei)第一(yi)級(ji)(ji),全長(chang)3323米,共有(you)臺階267盤、1572級(ji)(ji),其(qi)余為(wei)(wei)平盤,寬(kuan)度(du)一(yi)般在(zai)4—6米左右,最寬(kuan)處(chu)近8米。此(ci)段一(yi)般平緩上(shang)升,至(zhi)壺天閣開始向(xiang)上(shang)拔起抬(tai)高。該(gai)段多為(wei)(wei)亂石(shi)砌扶(fu)(fu)手墻(qiang),多數有(you)壓頂石(shi)。斗母宮北的(de)東(dong)西橋(qiao)子(渡仙橋(qiao))至(zhi)壺天閣段,俗稱柏洞(dong),兩側扶(fu)(fu)手墻(qiang)為(wei)(wei)大塊條石(shi)對接而(er)成。臺階和(he)扶(fu)(fu)手墻(qiang)均保存了(le)明代整(zheng)修時(shi)的(de)原(yuan)物。
壺天(tian)閣(ge)至(zhi)中天(tian)門(men)段,為(wei)泰山第二(er)斷層斜掀抬(tai)高帶,山勢峰回路轉,逐漸陡峭。壺天(tian)閣(ge)北為(wei)回馬嶺,其上盤道原稱十二(er)連盤。從壺天(tian)閣(ge)至(zhi)中天(tian)門(men)總長度680米,共(gong)有臺階(jie)73盤,共(gong)計1223級。兩側扶手(shou)墻為(wei)塊石壘砌,其上均(jun)覆(fu)壓頂石。臺階(jie)和扶手(shou)墻多為(wei)明代原物。
從(cong)中天門到(dao)對松亭為泰山第三級抬升的(de)過渡階(jie)段(duan)(duan),有“快活三里(li)”等(deng)平坦之(zhi)路,也有短(duan)段(duan)(duan)陡(dou)(dou)盤(pan),如(ru)“三瞪眼(yan)”等(deng)。從(cong)對松亭向上,山勢越來越陡(dou)(dou),俗稱(cheng)三個“十八(ba)盤(pan)”,分為“慢十八(ba)盤(pan)”、“不緊不慢十八(ba)盤(pan)”、“緊十八(ba)盤(pan)”。從(cong)中天門到(dao)南天門總(zong)長度約(yue)2500米,共計有臺(tai)階(jie)219盤(pan)、3071級,由于山勢驟然升起,緊十八(ba)盤(pan)的(de)臺(tai)階(jie)陡(dou)(dou)且密,有的(de)一(yi)盤(pan)達100級。兩側扶手墻均塊石筑帶壓頂石。
從南天門到玉皇(huang)頂總長度(du)(du)約1000米。天街比較平坦,寬度(du)(du)一般為8米,最(zui)寬處10米多。從碧霞(xia)祠至玉皇(huang)頂逐步升高(gao)。此段共計有臺階73盤(pan)、689級。玉皇(huang)頂到后石塢還有明代古盤(pan)道201盤(pan),1091級臺階。兩側不(bu)設(she)扶手墻(qiang),寬度(du)(du)在3米左右。