在莽原和雪山腳下,清澈的尼洋河邊,巍峨的群山懷抱,有一座歷經千年滄桑的小鎮,它的名字叫“太昭”。每次從拉薩到林芝,翻越米拉山后,我就會有一種期待,走進太昭,對話歷史,聆聽民族融合的聲音。位于拉薩至林芝的318國道左側,距拉薩僅200多公里。推薦理由:塵封的歷史、動人的傳說、獨特的地理位(wei)置。
古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)風(feng)貌(mao)、茶馬古(gu)道等(deng)。商(shang)賈云集(ji)締造往昔繁(fan)華(hua)太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)位于318國道旁,地(di)(di)(di)處(chu)工(gong)布江(jiang)(jiang)達(da)縣(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西面,距(ju)縣(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)20公里(li)。未入(ru)太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),鐫刻有(you)“太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)”的(de)牌坊先入(ru)視(shi)野,高(gao)大挺拔的(de)背后是厚重(zhong)與深邃。跨過吊(diao)橋,置身古(gu)老的(de)民(min)居,視(shi)線穿過驛(yi)站城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門,把思緒拉(la)(la)到歷史深處(chu),太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)曾經(jing)(jing)的(de)繁(fan)榮涌現出來(lai)。從唐朝(chao)和吐蕃(fan)聯姻開(kai)始(shi),西藏與內地(di)(di)(di)的(de)聯系就日(ri)益密切,軍旅客(ke)商(shang)往來(lai)不絕。元朝(chao)時,太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)始(shi)建驛(yi)站,到了清朝(chao)末年(nian)政府在此設(she)立(li)了太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)(即(ji)太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)縣(xian))。據記載,當(dang)(dang)時太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)稱(cheng)為(wei)江(jiang)(jiang)達(da),人(ren)口(kou)眾多、市鎮(zhen)繁(fan)華(hua)、店(dian)(dian)鋪林(lin)立(li),有(you)著名的(de)小八角(jiao)街和四座香火鼎盛(sheng)的(de)廟宇(yu),并設(she)有(you)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)政府、糧倉、學校、郵局、旅館(guan)、飯店(dian)(dian)、金銀加工(gong)店(dian)(dian)、裁(cai)縫店(dian)(dian)、刑場等(deng),藏、漢、回等(deng)民(min)族和尼泊(bo)爾客(ke)商(shang)來(lai)這里(li)經(jing)(jing)商(shang)交易,各地(di)(di)(di)的(de)商(shang)品也能夠順暢(chang)流通,當(dang)(dang)地(di)(di)(di)藏族甚至開(kai)始(shi)與其他各民(min)族通婚(hun)。太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao)成(cheng)為(wei)當(dang)(dang)時西藏的(de)重(zhong)要(yao)商(shang)業(ye)文化(hua)中心。清末民(min)初,江(jiang)(jiang)達(da)更名為(wei)太(tai)(tai)昭(zhao)(zhao),管理著東起巴河鎮(zhen),西至米(mi)拉(la)(la)山,北(bei)至娘(niang)蒲鄉的(de)廣大地(di)(di)(di)域。與雪(xue)卡宗(zong)(zong)(zong)、角(jiao)木宗(zong)(zong)(zong)、孜拉(la)(la)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)等(deng)三宗(zong)(zong)(zong),一(yi)同(tong)構成(cheng)著名的(de)“工(gong)布四宗(zong)(zong)(zong)”.
雄關漫(man)道(dao) 金戈鐵馬(ma)自古(gu)(gu)內地(di)(di)(di)(di)通(tong)往(wang)西藏(zang)(zang)(zang)的路有4條(tiao):青(qing)(qing)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)西道(dao)、青(qing)(qing)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)中道(dao)、青(qing)(qing)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)東(dong)道(dao)、川藏(zang)(zang)(zang)驛(yi)道(dao)。其(qi)中,除青(qing)(qing)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)西道(dao)以外的3條(tiao)都要(yao)經過太(tai)昭,因此太(tai)昭古(gu)(gu)城也(ye)是軍事交(jiao)通(tong)要(yao)地(di)(di)(di)(di)。據《衛(wei)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)通(tong)志(zhi)》記(ji)載(zai):“江達(da)乃西藏(zang)(zang)(zang)咽喉(hou)重地(di)(di)(di)(di),駐(zhu)(zhu)扎官兵(bing)(bing)(bing)防守。”《西藏(zang)(zang)(zang)志(zhi)》記(ji)載(zai):“江達(da)設守備一員,兵(bing)(bing)(bing)120名。”川軍管(guan)帶陳渠珍在其(qi)所著的《艽野塵夢》中提到江達(da)為西藏(zang)(zang)(zang)重鎮,約有四五百戶(hu),經濟極為繁(fan)榮。正因為太(tai)昭宗經濟繁(fan)榮,軍事、交(jiao)通(tong)地(di)(di)(di)(di)理(li)位(wei)置非常重要(yao),便順(shun)理(li)成(cheng)章地(di)(di)(di)(di)成(cheng)為兵(bing)(bing)(bing)家(jia)必(bi)爭之地(di)(di)(di)(di)。1909年,邊軍入藏(zang)(zang)(zang),在工布(bu)江達(da)駐(zhu)(zhu)守。據《天朝籌藏(zang)(zang)(zang)》記(ji)載(zai),1911年6月,駐(zhu)(zhu)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)大(da)臣聯豫急電川滇邊務大(da)臣趙(zhao)爾豐,請求(qiu)派兵(bing)(bing)(bing)會(hui)攻(gong)(gong)波密(mi),趙(zhao)爾豐派邊軍統領(ling)鳳(feng)山為波密(mi)督辦,與駐(zhu)(zhu)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)清兵(bing)(bing)(bing)分東(dong)西兩(liang)路會(hui)攻(gong)(gong)。7月平定(ding)波密(mi),8月,清兵(bing)(bing)(bing)前鋒攻(gong)(gong)至(zhi)工布(bu)江達(da),在太(tai)昭設兵(bing)(bing)(bing)營,并立“太(tai)山石(shi)(shi)敢(gan)當(dang)”石(shi)(shi)碑(現收藏(zang)(zang)(zang)在當(dang)地(di)(di)(di)(di)一農(nong)戶(hu)家(jia)中)。
重走唐(tang)(tang)(tang)蕃古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)太昭古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)城與(yu)唐(tang)(tang)(tang)蕃古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)連為一體,古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)成(cheng)(cheng)就了(le)古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)城,古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)城守護著古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)。唐(tang)(tang)(tang)蕃古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)是古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)代(dai)吐蕃與(yu)內地(di)(di)聯系的(de)交通要(yao)道(dao)(dao),建于(yu)松(song)贊干布(bu)時期。松(song)贊干布(bu)就是由此(ci)到(dao)柏海(青(qing)海扎凌(ling)湖)迎娶(qu)了(le)文(wen)(wen)成(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)(gong)主。唐(tang)(tang)(tang)蕃古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)入(ru)口(kou),右側山(shan)(shan)崖(ya)有(you)一處(chu)凹陷的(de)地(di)(di)方(fang),當地(di)(di)人稱(cheng)之為藏(zang)王(wang)(wang)避(bi)雨(yu)(yu)石。相傳(chuan)當年松(song)贊干布(bu)迎娶(qu)文(wen)(wen)成(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)(gong)主回來時,路經(jing)此(ci)地(di)(di)天降(jiang)大雨(yu)(yu),松(song)贊干布(bu)拔劍(jian)削山(shan)(shan),讓文(wen)(wen)成(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)(gong)主在此(ci)避(bi)雨(yu)(yu)。因大雨(yu)(yu)連降(jiang)數日(ri)不(bu)停,文(wen)(wen)成(cheng)(cheng)公(gong)(gong)(gong)主分(fen)外思(si)念家鄉,于(yu)是命隨行工匠(jiang)在山(shan)(shan)洞內刻下唐(tang)(tang)(tang)王(wang)(wang)畫像,又刻下經(jing)文(wen)(wen)、佛(fo)塔、佛(fo)像,向(xiang)上(shang)天祈求(qiu)大雨(yu)(yu)早點停息,自(zi)己能(neng)早日(ri)到(dao)達拉(la)薩;同時,也祈求(qiu)上(shang)天能(neng)夠保佑唐(tang)(tang)(tang)王(wang)(wang)身(shen)體安康(kang),國家繁榮昌(chang)盛。古(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)(gu)道(dao)(dao)經(jing)過的(de)山(shan)(shan)也名藏(zang)經(jing)山(shan)(shan),山(shan)(shan)上(shang)刻有(you)許多藏(zang)文(wen)(wen),并涂了(le)朱紅(hong)顏色(se),這(zhe)些(xie)藏(zang)文(wen)(wen)絕大部分(fen)是六字真(zhen)言“嗡嘛呢唄咪吽”。