靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山位(wei)于(yu)江南水鄉蘇州西南的木(mu)瀆(du)靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山,因為靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)塔前有一塊"靈(ling)(ling)芝石(shi)(shi)"十分有名(ming),因此得名(ming)"靈(ling)(ling)巖(yan)山"。 山上(shang)多奇(qi)石(shi)(shi)。巨巖(yan)嵯峨,怪石(shi)(shi)嶙峋(xun),物象宛然,得于(yu)仿(fang)佛。舊有"十二(er)奇(qi)石(shi)(shi)"或"十八(ba)奇(qi)石(shi)(shi)"之(zhi)說。
靈巖(yan)山(shan)有"靈巖(yan)秀絕冠(guan)江南"和"靈巖(yan)奇絕勝天臺"的(de)(de)美譽。有昂首攀游(you)狀的(de)(de)石蛇(she),敲打有聲的(de)(de)石鼓,狀若發團的(de)(de)石髫,伸(shen)首隆背的(de)(de)石龜,兩(liang)耳直豎(shu)的(de)(de)石兔,形影不離的(de)(de)鴛(yuan)鴦(yang)石,埋頭藏泥(ni)的(de)(de)牛(niu)背石等。
靈(ling)巖山,本是春秋時代吳王(wang)夫差館娃宮的舊(jiu)址,也是越(yue)國獻西(xi)施的地方(fang)。現今尚存吳王(wang)遺(yi)跡(ji)和古跡(ji)有:吳王(wang)井、梳妝臺、玩花池、玩月(yue)池、響(xiang)廊、琴臺、西(xi)施洞、智積井、長(chang)壽亭(ting)、方(fang)亭(ting)等。
沿登(deng)山(shan)御道(dao)拾(shi)級而(er)上,首(shou)先是繼廬(lu)亭,因靈巖(yan)山(shan)住持(chi),一(yi)(yi)(yi)代(dai)名(ming)(ming)(ming)僧印(yin)(yin)光(guang)法(fa)師(shi)的別號(hao)繼廬(lu)而(er)得名(ming)(ming)(ming)。亭柱上有(you)(you)(you)對聯“大路一(yi)(yi)(yi)條,到此(ci)齊心向(xiang)上;好(hao)山(shan)四(si)面,歸來(lai)另眼(yan)相(xiang)看”。接著是迎(ying)笑亭,相(xiang)傳始建(jian)于(yu)宋代(dai),東坡居(ju)士(shi)曾在此(ci)笑迎(ying)釋友(you)。盤折(zhe)(zhe)再(zai)上是“落(luo)(luo)(luo)紅亭”,靈巖(yan)也有(you)(you)(you)“象山(shan)”之(zhi)稱,舊有(you)(you)(you)“象王回(hui)顧落(luo)(luo)(luo)花紅”之(zhi)句,這里是觀日落(luo)(luo)(luo)之(zhi)佳處。亭東乃印(yin)(yin)光(guang)塔(ta)院,為印(yin)(yin)光(guang)和尚埋骨處。印(yin)(yin)光(guang)法(fa)師(shi)(1861~1940)為近代(dai)佛(fo)教界泰斗、凈土宗一(yi)(yi)(yi)代(dai)宗師(shi),東南亞印(yin)(yin)光(guang)派創(chuang)始人(ren)(ren)。落(luo)(luo)(luo)紅亭西有(you)(you)(you)西施(shi)洞,相(xiang)傳越王勾(gou)踐與(yu)范蠡獻西施(shi)給吳王夫差(cha)于(yu)此(ci)等候。后人(ren)(ren)在洞前建(jian)屋(wu),洞內鐫刻觀音(yin)像,洞外(wai)種(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)紫(zi)竹,所以又名(ming)(ming)(ming)“觀音(yin)洞”,香火頗旺(wang)。落(luo)(luo)(luo)紅亭左折(zhe)(zhe)而(er)上約300余(yu)步(bu),人(ren)(ren)稱“百步(bu)階(jie)”,為乾隆帝登(deng)靈巖(yan)時所筑御道(dao)的一(yi)(yi)(yi)段,山(shan)勢(shi)陡(dou)峻。道(dao)旁有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)方形磚砌(qi)之(zhi)臺為梁代(dai)靈巖(yan)山(shan)開山(shan)和尚智積的衣缽塔(ta),塔(ta)南有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)巨(ju)石,形似烏龜(gui),昂(ang)首(shou)面向(xiang)太湖,故有(you)(you)(you)“烏龜(gui)望(wang)太湖”之(zhi)說。石背(bei)鐫有(you)(you)(you)“望(wang)佛(fo)來(lai)”三字,石上有(you)(you)(you)腳印(yin)(yin),據說西施(shi)常站在此(ci)石上眺(tiao)望(wang)故鄉。
山頂是靈巖(yan)寺,即(ji)吳(wu)王(wang)“館娃(wa)(wa)宮”的舊址。春秋吳(wu)越(yue)夫椒(jiao)一(yi)戰,越(yue)國(guo)大敗,越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐和大夫范蠡被押為(wei)人(ren)質,居(ju)住在(zai)石室之(zhi)中(zhong),向夫差(cha)獻上越(yue)中(zhong)美(mei)女(nv)西(xi)施。吳(wu)王(wang)夫差(cha)為(wei)西(xi)施在(zai)靈巖(yan)山上建造(zao)行宮,銅(tong)鉤玉檻(jian),奢侈(chi)無比。吳(wu)人(ren)稱美(mei)女(nv)為(wei)娃(wa)(wa),故名“館娃(wa)(wa)宮”。公元(yuan)前(qian)473年(nian),越(yue)王(wang)勾(gou)踐從(cong)水路攻進吳(wu)國(guo),把這富麗堂皇的館娃(wa)(wa)宮付之(zhi)一(yi)炬,燒成斷壁殘垣。東晉時有人(ren)在(zai)靈巖(yan)山吳(wu)宮遺址修建別(bie)業。后舍宅為(wei)寺,南朝梁天監二年(nian)(503年(nian))擴建為(wei)寺院(yuan),名“秀峰寺”。唐代(dai)改稱靈巖(yan)寺。
靈巖(yan)(yan)寺現(xian)存寺院規模宏大(da),為典型的中國(guo)佛(fo)教凈土道場之一。靈巖(yan)(yan)寺建在(zai)山(shan)頂(ding),高(gao)聳(song)入云,巍峨壯觀。寺門前松柏參天(tian)(tian),門額“靈巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)寺” 為趙樸初題寫。進門便是天(tian)(tian)王(wang)殿,亦稱彌勒閣(ge),殿中央供(gong)奉天(tian)(tian)冠彌勒,背(bei)后(hou)(hou)供(gong)韋馱菩薩,兩(liang)側排列著四大(da)天(tian)(tian)王(wang)。再進為前院,院中有(you)(you)池(chi)名硯池(chi),池(chi)上架有(you)(you)“界清(qing)橋(qiao)”,據說大(da)雨后(hou)(hou),橋(qiao)東之水清(qing),橋(qiao)西(xi)之水濁。大(da)雄寶(bao)殿高(gao)25米,寬(kuan)20米,氣(qi)勢(shi)雄偉莊嚴(yan),正中供(gong)奉釋迦牟尼佛(fo)巨像,迦葉、阿難兩(liang)弟子侍立兩(liang)旁,佛(fo)祖背(bei)后(hou)(hou)為海(hai)島觀音,東西(xi)兩(liang)壁(bi)排列十六(liu)羅(luo)漢。大(da)殿后(hou)(hou)壁(bi)供(gong)奉文殊、普賢。
位于大殿東側的(de)(de)靈巖塔(ta)(ta)初建(jian)于梁代天監二年(nian),歷經滄桑,現為(wei)七級(ji)八面磚塔(ta)(ta),挺(ting)拔聳立,是靈巖山的(de)(de)標志,凡(fan)來游山者莫不(bu)在此留(liu)影紀念。靈巖塔(ta)(ta)又稱多(duo)寶塔(ta)(ta),高34米,7級(ji)8面,磚木(mu)結(jie)構、樓(lou)閣式(shi)。游人可拾(shi)級(ji)登塔(ta)(ta),極目遠(yuan)眺姑蘇景色。塔(ta)(ta)南有(you)鐘(zhong)樓(lou),樓(lou)高15.3米,為(wei)兩層(ceng)木(mu)構。上懸大鐘(zhong),下置地藏佛(fo)像。
靈(ling)巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)寺西(xi)部以(yi)花園(yuan)(yuan)為(wei)(wei)主,俗稱山(shan)頂(ding)花園(yuan)(yuan)。園(yuan)(yuan)內浣花池相(xiang)(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)施(shi)于(yu)此泛舟采蓮。池西(xi)有石(shi)城,即山(shan)顛圍墻,相(xiang)(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)為(wei)(wei)吳王闔閭所筑,以(yi)石(shi)砌成冰紋形(xing)(xing)。玩月(yue)池曾(ceng)供(gong)西(xi)施(shi)玩月(yue)。吳王井呈圓形(xing)(xing),也(ye)為(wei)(wei)吳宮遺井,曾(ceng)供(gong)西(xi)施(shi)照(zhao)容。智(zhi)積井為(wei)(wei)八(ba)角(jiao)形(xing)(xing),因是梁代(dai)智(zhi)積和尚修浚,故(gu)名。井中(zhong)泉水甘例,煮茗(ming)甚佳。井北砌有假山(shan),上有“長壽亭”,傳(chuan)(chuan)為(wei)(wei)西(xi)施(shi)梳(shu)妝之所。靈(ling)巖(yan)(yan)山(shan)的最高(gao)處位于(yu)靈(ling)巖(yan)(yan)寺之西(xi)的琴(qin)臺,相(xiang)(xiang)傳(chuan)(chuan)西(xi)施(shi)操琴(qin)于(yu)此。
靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)南有(you)(you)(you)采香(xiang)涇,專為西施(shi)去香(xiang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)采種香(xiang)草(cao)之用(yong),傳(chuan)說是依據吳王一箭所射的方向而(er)開鑿,所以又叫“一箭河”。山(shan)(shan)(shan)西南麓有(you)(you)(you)韓世(shi)忠(zhong)墓(mu)。南宋抗金名將韓世(shi)忠(zhong)和(he)夫人梁紅玉合葬(zang)于(yu)此(ci),墓(mu)碑巨大,碑文長達(da)13000余(yu)字。靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)南麓香(xiang)水(shui)溪北,百步小浜石橋(qiao)東有(you)(you)(you)清(qing)初詩(shi)人張永夫之墓(mu)。
靈巖山位(wei)于(yu)吳(wu)中區木瀆鎮西北,北距天平(ping)山2公里。
從(cong)蘇州火車站出發(fa),乘坐游4線公(gong)交車,到達底站木(mu)瀆嚴家(jia)花園,向前步(bu)行500米(mi),到三岔路口(kou)(kou)往左前步(bu)行300米(mi)到達靈巖(yan)山大門口(kou)(kou)。
從(cong)吳中汽車(che)站(zhan) 約步(bu)行404米(mi)(mi)到(dao)石(shi)湖(hu)東路站(zhan)地(di)鐵(tie)站(zhan), 乘(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)地(di)鐵(tie)2號(hao)線(xian)經(jing)過8站(zhan),在(zai)廣濟南路站(zhan)下車(che) ,站(zhan)內換(huan)(huan)乘(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)地(di)鐵(tie)1號(hao)線(xian), 乘(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)地(di)鐵(tie)1號(hao)線(xian)經(jing)過9站(zhan),在(zai)木瀆站(zhan)下車(che) 約步(bu)行32米(mi)(mi)到(dao)木瀆換(huan)(huan)乘(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樞紐站(zhan), 乘(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)坐(zuo)668路經(jing)過5站(zhan),在(zai)方(fang)家橋下車(che) ,約步(bu)行188米(mi)(mi)到(dao)靈(ling)巖山(shan)(shan) ,便(bian)到(dao)達終(zhong)點靈(ling)巖山(shan)(shan)。
從京滬高(gao)鐵(tie)蘇州北(bei)站(zhan)步(bu)行(xing)(xing)約150米,到(dao)達高(gao)鐵(tie)蘇州北(bei)站(zhan),乘坐(zuo)地(di)(di)(di)鐵(tie)2號(hao)線,經過(guo)12站(zhan), 到(dao)達廣(guang)濟(ji)南路(lu)站(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)約80米,換(huan)乘地(di)(di)(di)鐵(tie)1號(hao)線,乘坐(zuo)地(di)(di)(di)鐵(tie)1號(hao)線,經過(guo)9站(zhan), 到(dao)達木(mu)瀆站(zhan),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)約240米,到(dao)達木(mu)瀆換(huan)乘樞紐站(zhan),乘坐(zuo)583路(lu),經過(guo)4站(zhan), 到(dao)達靈巖(yan)山東站(zhan)(也可乘坐(zuo)668路(lu)、507路(lu)、621路(lu)),步(bu)行(xing)(xing)約40米,到(dao)達靈巖(yan)山首(shou)末站(zhan)。
北西(xi)走(zou)向(xiang),長2.3公里,寬1.2公里,海拔182米。靈巖(yan)山山體由花崗巖(yan)構成,巖(yan)石(shi)球(qiu)狀風(feng)化明顯。
山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)多奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),狀(zhuang)如靈芝,故名(ming);遠望山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)勢右旋(xuan)似巨象(xiang)回顧,亦稱象(xiang)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西麓(lu)出產板巖(yan)是蘇(su)州工藝品——藏(zang)書靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)硯(yan)(yan)(俗稱澄泥硯(yan)(yan))等石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)雕(diao)產品的料石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),又(you)稱硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)南峭壁(bi)如城,故又(you)名(ming)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan);因山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)南有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)射堋、石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓,亦稱石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。北宋(song)《吳郡圖(tu)經續記》:“硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),在吳縣西二十一里(li)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)西有(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓,亦名(ming)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鼓山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。……山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)相連屬,有(you)(you)村。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)出石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),可以為(wei)硯(yan)(yan),蓋硯(yan)(yan)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)之名(ming)不(bu)虛(xu)也。”
靈巖(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)怪石嶙峋(xun),松林(lin)滿山(shan)(shan)(shan),殿(dian)宇雄偉,古塔聳立,尤(you)多吳宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)遺跡,為(wei)蘇州旅游勝地。沿(yan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)路向上,可見(jian)一徑(jing)穿亭、蒼翠迎(ying)人(ren)、落紅夕照、塔院(yuan)松風、醉僧待渡、越女遺蹤、太湖在望(wang)、箭涇采香、秀(xiu)峰古剎(cha)、靈巖(yan)塔影、蕭寺鐘聲、萬家(jia)燈火、山(shan)(shan)(shan)管擁翠、吳宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)遺址(zhi)、山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂花園、修(xiu)廊響屟、琴臺浴(yu)暉(hui)、蘄岳同輝等靈巖(yan)十八景(jing)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂花園內(nei)有方形(xing)玩(wan)花池,一名浣花池。玩(wan)月池旁假山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有長(chang)壽(shou)亭,相(xiang)傳(chuan)為(wei)西施梳妝(zhuang)臺遺址(zhi)。亭西有石墻(qiang),相(xiang)傳(chuan)是(shi)春秋(qiu)時(shi)期館娃宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)墻(qiang)遺跡。