概述
原是一(yi)座很完整的組群建(jian)(jian)筑,位于五臺縣城東(dong)西米(mi)市街是按我國一(yi)般佛教(jiao)寺院(yuan)坐北(bei)向(xiang)南而建(jian)(jian)。占地(di)面積883平(ping)方米(mi),中(zhong)軸線上(shang)有二(er)進院(yuan)落,三座殿(dian)(dian)宇。依(yi)次為山門、文殊(shu)殿(dian)(dian)、大雄寶殿(dian)(dian)。其(qi)中(zhong)以大雄寶殿(dian)(dian)規模最大,面寬5間。鐘(zhong)、鼓樓建(jian)(jian)在文殊(shu)殿(dian)(dian)兩旁,左右配殿(dian)(dian)、廂房環抱,共計16問,每邊為8間。紅墻綠(lv)瓦,端莊(zhuang)幽雅。建(jian)(jian)國后(hou),新建(jian)(jian)縣博物(wu)館,寺院(yuan)前部(bu)分建(jian)(jian)筑拆除(chu),只存一(yi)座大雄寶殿(dian)(dian)。
發展歷史
廣濟(ji)寺位居的五(wu)臺(tai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),歷史悠久,在舊(jiu)石器(qi)時代就有人類居住。西(xi)漢置(zhi)(zhi)慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)縣,隸太原郡(jun)。因發源(yuan)于(yu)縣城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)北(bei)(bei)(bei)15公里(li)(li)的慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)山下里(li)(li)底村的慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)水東(dong)南(nan)流經縣城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)注入清水河而得名。慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)古(gu)(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)遺址在今古(gu)(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)村北(bei)(bei)(bei)。三國時屬魏國,隸太原郡(jun)。西(xi)晉時縣廢(fei)。北(bei)(bei)(bei)魏太和十年(486)置(zhi)(zhi)驢(lv)(lv)夷(yi)縣,隸永(yong)安郡(jun)。慮(lv)(lv)與驢(lv)(lv)音(yin)近,虒(zhi)古(gu)(gu)音(yin)夷(yi),在慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)縣城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)新建驢(lv)(lv)夷(yi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長三里(li)(li)二十步,東(dong)、南(nan)臨慮(lv)(lv)虒(zhi)水,西(xi)、北(bei)(bei)(bei)有池,東(dong)、南(nan)、北(bei)(bei)(bei)三面為陡(dou)崖,縣城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小而堅,地形陡(dou)絕,高不可攻,宜于(yu)防守。北(bei)(bei)(bei)齊時,驢(lv)(lv)夷(yi)縣屬雁(yan)門郡(jun)管轄(xia)(xia)。隋煬帝(di)大業三年(607),改名五(wu)臺(tai)縣。金貞(zhen)虒(zhi)四(si)年(1216)升為臺(tai)州。明洪(hong)武九年(1376)復(fu)為五(wu)臺(tai)縣,屬代州管轄(xia)(xia)。
五臺(tai)縣城(cheng)(cheng)在(zai)明(ming)清(qing)(qing)兩代屢次增修(xiu)。明(ming)隆(long)慶四年(1570)建南、北(bei)二(er)樓(lou),外筑廓垣(yuan)。明(ming)萬歷二(er)十四年(1596)增修(xiu)大垣(yuan)高三丈二(er)尺(chi),厚二(er)丈五尺(chi),垛(duo)口635個(ge),堞臺(tai)20座,門(men)(men)(men)3座。明(ming)萬歷三十三年(1605)增修(xiu)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)4座。城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)題名,南門(men)(men)(men)謂大安門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)匾“虒(zhi)波環清(qing)(qing)”;西門(men)(men)(men)謂恩綸門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)匾“金(jin)湯鞏固(gu)”;北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)謂寧門(men)(men)(men),樓(lou)匾“臺(tai)山拱翠”;東門(men)(men)(men)樓(lou)匾“起(qi)鳳(feng)”。
建筑布局
大雄寶殿(dian)(dian)面寬(kuan)5間,進深3問,單(dan)檐(yan)懸(xuan)山頂,殿(dian)(dian)前(qian)有月臺,面積(ji)(ji)290平方米(mi)。該(gai)殿(dian)(dian)雖幾經局(ju)部(bu)重修,但(dan)梁架結構和(he)用柱(zhu)(zhu)方法(fa)仍保存了(le)原狀(zhuang)。柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)覆盆式,各柱(zhu)(zhu)微(wei)向(xiang)內(nei)(nei)(nei)傾(qing),置成(cheng)“側角”,造(zao)成(cheng)“升起”。這種做法(fa)增強了(le)梁架的(de)(de)穩固力。屋頂坡度(du)較平緩,檐(yan)下柱(zhu)(zhu)頭(tou)四鋪(pu)作斗(dou)(dou)拱(gong)(gong),自櫨斗(dou)(dou)斗(dou)(dou)口出平直的(de)(de)假昂(ang)一(yi)(yi)跳,昂(ang)背置交(jiao)互斗(dou)(dou),耍頭(tou)與撩(liao)檐(yan)枋相交(jiao),后(hou)尾承樺拱(gong)(gong)托四椽(chuan)。補間鋪(pu)作每間一(yi)(yi)朵斜拱(gong)(gong),后(hou)尾托平棋枋。殿(dian)(dian)之(zhi)前(qian)檐(yan)下懸(xuan)有“大雄寶殿(dian)(dian)”豎匾(bian)一(yi)(yi)塊,為乾(qian)隆(long)四十(shi)三年(nian)(1778)重修廣濟寺時(shi)懸(xuan)掛(gua)的(de)(de)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)徹上露明(ming)造(zao)。為適應宗教(jiao)禮(li)拜活(huo)動和(he)擴大內(nei)(nei)(nei)部(bu)空間的(de)(de)使用面積(ji)(ji),金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)配置,采(cai)用減柱(zhu)(zhu)法(fa),前(qian)槽不(bu)設(she)金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu),后(hou)槽只用粗大的(de)(de)兩(liang)根金(jin)柱(zhu)(zhu)承托內(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e),大內(nei)(nei)(nei)額(e)之(zhi)上承四椽(chuan)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)(nei)正中懸(xuan)木匾(bian),上書(shu)(shu)“天人和(he)益(yi)”,為五(wu)臺知(zhi)縣王秉(bing)韜于(yu)乾(qian)隆(long)四十(shi)三年(nian)(1778)書(shu)(shu)。
殿(dian)內保存有(you)(you)泥塑(su)(su)像30尊,基(ji)本完好。主像3尊,供奉在(zai)前(qian)面(mian)的(de)佛(fo)(fo)臺上,結跏趺(fu)坐(zuo)于須彌(mi)座蓮臺上。正中釋迦(jia)牟尼佛(fo)(fo),頭上藍(lan)色螺(luo)發盤旋,臉形圓潤,身軀肥碩,上身袒胸,身披袈裟(sha),衣紋(wen)簡潔流(liu)暢。兩(liang)側塑(su)(su)二弟(di)子阿難、迦(jia)葉,嚴謹安祥。左邊(bian)文(wen)殊菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa),右(you)邊(bian)普賢菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa),面(mian)目(mu)豐腴(yu),寬衣博帶(dai),束發蓮冠,給人以藝術之美感。這(zhe)3尊像合稱為“華嚴三(san)圣”。文(wen)殊菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)和普賢菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)兩(liang)側,塑(su)(su)脅(xie)侍菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)兩(liang)尊,他們項(xiang)戴瓔珞,臂飾寶釧(chuan),容貌健(jian)美。佛(fo)(fo)臺前(qian)兩(liang)側塑(su)(su)有(you)(you)韋馱、伽(jia)藍(lan),相對而立,威武雄(xiong)壯,好象(xiang)在(zai)履行(xing)自己的(de)護法職守。東西兩(liang)山(shan)墻下塑(su)(su)有(you)(you)十八羅漢,有(you)(you)仰有(you)(you)俯,有(you)(you)喜有(you)(you)怒,姿態各(ge)異,栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。佛(fo)(fo)臺背面(mian)正中塑(su)(su)文(wen)殊菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎(qi)(qi)獅子,左邊(bian)塑(su)(su)觀(guan)音菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎(qi)(qi)朝天吼,右(you)邊(bian)塑(su)(su)普賢菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)(sa)騎(qi)(qi)白象(xiang),合稱“三(san)大士”。“士”者“事(shi)”也,即從事(shi)自利利他的(de)人。
大雄寶殿的(de)塑(su)像(xiang)為(wei)元至正年(nian)間(1335-1340)的(de)遺物。由(you)于受元代戰亂影響,雕刻家(jia)發揮技藝的(de)機遇受到限制(zhi),佛體(ti)欠莊嚴(yan),像(xiang)似(si)俗骨人相,肉體(ti)表現較重,像(xiang)似(si)寫實作風(feng),佛的(de)精神已看不(bu)出(chu)多(duo)少。但是,塑(su)像(xiang)盡(jin)管(guan)出(chu)手(shou)不(bu)高,仍屬不(bu)可多(duo)得(de)的(de)作品(pin)。
佛教三圣
大(da)雄寶(bao)殿的(de)(de)(de)彩塑是(shi)(shi)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”,那(nei)(nei)么,“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)(de)思(si)想(xiang)、造像源(yuan)于(yu)何時(shi)何人?于(yu)此作一(yi)解釋。“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)(de)思(si)想(xiang)、造像源(yuan)于(yu)五(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan),是(shi)(shi)五(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan)僧(seng)人對(dui)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)教(jiao)文(wen)(wen)化的(de)(de)(de)巨大(da)貢獻(xian)。當初,唐代五(wu)臺(tai)山(shan)(shan)著名的(de)(de)(de)居(ju)士李(li)通(tong)(tong)玄(xuan)至大(da)華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)寺(si)研習《華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)經(jing)》,提(ti)出了(le)(le)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)(de)思(si)想(xiang),他(ta)(ta)(ta)說毗盧遮(zhe)那(nei)(nei)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)、文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)菩薩(sa)、普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)菩薩(sa)是(shi)(shi)《華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)經(jing)》中的(de)(de)(de)三(san)(san)(san)位(wei)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)者,這(zhe)三(san)(san)(san)人構成——法(fa)(fa)界之體。這(zhe)一(yi)法(fa)(fa)界具(ju)有三(san)(san)(san)德(de):毗盧遮(zhe)那(nei)(nei)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)是(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)身的(de)(de)(de)果德(de),文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)是(shi)(shi)因(yin)位(wei)的(de)(de)(de)智德(de),普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)是(shi)(shi)因(yin)位(wei)的(de)(de)(de)行(xing)德(de)。他(ta)(ta)(ta)們(men)之間的(de)(de)(de)關系是(shi)(shi):一(yi)、總(zong)別關系;二(er)、主伴(ban)關系;三(san)(san)(san)、因(yin)果關系;四、體用(yong)關系等(deng)。而(er)后大(da)華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)寺(si)的(de)(de)(de)高僧(seng)澄(cheng)觀國師(shi)繼(ji)承和發(fa)展(zhan)了(le)(le)李(li)通(tong)(tong)玄(xuan)的(de)(de)(de)這(zhe)一(yi)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”思(si)想(xiang),提(ti)出了(le)(le)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)圓融觀”。他(ta)(ta)(ta)說:“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)者,本師(shi)毗盧遮(zhe)那(nei)(nei)如來,普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)、文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)二(er)大(da)菩薩(sa)是(shi)(shi)也。”他(ta)(ta)(ta)還說:“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)之內,二(er)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)為因(yin),如來為果。”文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)、普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)二(er)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)法(fa)(fa)門(men)互相融通(tong)(tong)。他(ta)(ta)(ta)們(men)至佛(fo)(fo)(fo)果之因(yin)已經(jing)完成,因(yin)之立(li)場與果之立(li)場同一(yi),且歸屬于(yu)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)果境界。由(you)是(shi)(shi)文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)、普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)和毗盧遮(zhe)那(nei)(nei)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)就融為一(yi)體了(le)(le)。澄(cheng)觀國師(shi)的(de)(de)(de)“三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)圓融觀”思(si)想(xiang)被他(ta)(ta)(ta)的(de)(de)(de)高足(zu)圭峰宗密運用(yong)于(yu)實踐,并按(an)澄(cheng)觀國師(shi)之意創造了(le)(le)以毗盧遮(zhe)那(nei)(nei)佛(fo)(fo)(fo)居(ju)中,文(wen)(wen)殊(shu)(shu)、普(pu)(pu)賢(xian)(xian)(xian)居(ju)其兩(liang)旁的(de)(de)(de)“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”造像。從此“華(hua)(hua)(hua)(hua)嚴(yan)三(san)(san)(san)圣(sheng)(sheng)(sheng)”的(de)(de)(de)造像就應用(yong)而(er)生(sheng)了(le)(le)。
李(li)通玄居士、澄(cheng)觀(guan)國師、圭峰宗密三(san)人(ren)都(dou)是五(wu)臺山華嚴(yan)(yan)學(xue)的(de)(de)奠基人(ren),“華嚴(yan)(yan)三(san)圣”的(de)(de)思想(xiang)、造(zao)像都(dou)是他(ta)們創造(zao)的(de)(de)。這是他(ta)們對(dui)五(wu)臺山佛教文化的(de)(de)巨大貢(gong)獻。
“華(hua)嚴三圣”中(zhong)的毗盧遮那(nei)佛(fo),是(shi)(shi)不(bu)(bu)可說不(bu)(bu)可得(de)的法身佛(fo),他(ta)的凈土叫華(hua)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie),這個世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie)最(zui)下為風(feng)輪,風(feng)輪之(zhi)上有香水海,海水中(zhong)生大(da)蓮花(hua)(hua),蓮花(hua)(hua)中(zhong)包藏(zang)(zang)(zang)有微(wei)塵數之(zhi)世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie),故稱蓮花(hua)(hua)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie),略稱華(hua)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie)。華(hua)藏(zang)(zang)(zang)世(shi)(shi)界(jie)(jie)的教(jiao)主是(shi)(shi)毗盧遮那(nei)佛(fo)。他(ta)有兩個最(zui)得(de)力的助手(shou),一是(shi)(shi)他(ta)的左脅侍(shi)文殊菩薩(sa),專(zhuan)司智德,另一是(shi)(shi)他(ta)的右脅侍(shi)普(pu)賢菩薩(sa),專(zhuan)司理德。
大雄寶(bao)殿前(qian)立八角形經(jing)幢(chuang)(chuang)一(yi)座(zuo),通高4米,下施扁(bian)平(ping)的須(xu)彌(mi)座(zuo),每面(mian)雕(diao)(diao)(diao)獅(shi)。幢(chuang)(chuang)身八面(mian),都有造像,刀法簡潔(jie)古樸,經(jing)幢(chuang)(chuang)銘文已(yi)漫漶不(bu)清。幢(chuang)(chuang)身之(zhi)上(shang)(shang)覆以(yi)(yi)寶(bao)蓋(gai)(gai),周(zhou)圍淺雕(diao)(diao)(diao)幾何圖(tu)案(an),繞以(yi)(yi)瓔珞(luo)。寶(bao)蓋(gai)(gai)以(yi)(yi)上(shang)(shang)施覆缽(bo)和寶(bao)珠。建幢(chuang)(chuang)年(nian)代不(bu)詳(xiang),從形體和雕(diao)(diao)(diao)刻技術上(shang)(shang)看,可能屬(shu)唐制,但(dan)不(bu)能超越唐代。因為《尊勝陀(tuo)羅(luo)尼經(jing)》是(shi)唐高宗(zong)時佛(fo)陀(tuo)波(bo)利來華始譯的。
附近景觀群
五臺(tai)縣城(cheng)四周,被5座(zuo)小臺(tai)頂環抱。東(dong)(dong)面(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)東(dong)(dong)山(shan)(shan)(shan),亦(yi)(yi)名(ming)(ming)小東(dong)(dong)臺(tai),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)1414米(mi),臺(tai)頂面(mian)(mian)積5平方公(gong)(gong)里(li)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂有(you)(you)峰(feng)火臺(tai),山(shan)(shan)(shan)西北(bei)有(you)(you)閣(ge)子嶺(ling)隘口,古(gu)稱(cheng)(cheng)“閣(ge)道穿云”,為五臺(tai)八景(jing)之(zhi)一。西有(you)(you)紫羅山(shan)(shan)(shan),位于縣城(cheng)西南(nan)4公(gong)(gong)里(li)處,山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢挺拔(ba)(ba)(ba)俊秀(xiu),人稱(cheng)(cheng)小西臺(tai),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)1284米(mi),山(shan)(shan)(shan)上舊有(you)(you)道院,廢之(zhi)久矣(yi)。金代(dai)道士姬志之(zhi)重建(jian),名(ming)(ming)“明(ming)陽觀(guan)”。金代(dai)詩人元(yuan)好問曾(ceng)臨觀(guan)游覽,作《明(ming)陽觀(guan)記》,并(bing)建(jian)駘臺(tai)神(shen)廟。山(shan)(shan)(shan)下有(you)(you)金代(dai)侍郎張大節(jie)和忻州刺史張天(tian)叟古(gu)墓(mu)。縣城(cheng)東(dong)(dong)南(nan)面(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)南(nan)神(shen)垴,孤峰(feng)突起,層巒屏立,人稱(cheng)(cheng)小南(nan)臺(tai),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)1217米(mi),臺(tai)頂面(mian)(mian)積1平方公(gong)(gong)里(li)。此地(di)是(shi)漢文(wen)(wen)帝(di)劉恒曾(ceng)游獵(lie)的(de)(de)地(di)方,后人在(zai)垴上建(jian)代(dai)王(wang)廟,亦(yi)(yi)稱(cheng)(cheng)漢文(wen)(wen)祠。現今祠已不在(zai),廟跡猶在(zai)。北(bei)面(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)青山(shan)(shan)(shan)垴,亦(yi)(yi)名(ming)(ming)小北(bei)臺(tai),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)1557米(mi),山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)(you)一座(zuo)小廟,內供一男一女(nv)兩尊(zun)彩塑,女(nv)的(de)(de)清(qing)秀(xiu)端莊,謂之(zhi)青山(shan)(shan)(shan)圣母;男的(de)(de)魁悟(wu)英(ying)俊,謂之(zhi)青山(shan)(shan)(shan)爺(ye)爺(ye)。4小峰(feng)之(zhi)中(zhong)有(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)昌(chang)山(shan)(shan)(shan),亦(yi)(yi)名(ming)(ming)峰(feng)山(shan)(shan)(shan),人稱(cheng)(cheng)小中(zhong)臺(tai),海(hai)(hai)(hai)(hai)拔(ba)(ba)(ba)1242米(mi)。山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)昌(chang)廟,山(shan)(shan)(shan)下東(dong)(dong)側有(you)(you)明(ming)萬(wan)歷年間(jian)、名(ming)(ming)震中(zhong)州、“天(tian)下清(qing)官第二員”的(de)(de)楊夢弼(bi)墓(mu)。
廣濟寺這(zhe)一元代(dai)建筑,為我國光輝燦爛的古(gu)代(dai)文化的一部(bu)分。它是研究我國建筑史、雕塑史的重要實物(wu)資(zi)料,也是接待(dai)國內外客(ke)人參觀(guan)、游覽的重要場所。