五柳松(song)子魚(yu)是(shi)廣(guang)(guang)東的(de)一道名菜(cai)(cai),屬于粵菜(cai)(cai)。廣(guang)(guang)東人對于淡(dan)水魚(yu),大多(duo)采用原(yuan)條(tiao)蒸(zheng)、起魚(yu)片炒球等方法(fa),以凸(tu)顯其本身清甜(tian)鮮味的(de)特質。但在一眾(zhong)廣(guang)(guang)府(fu)名菜(cai)(cai)中,卻有一道淡(dan)水魚(yu)肴,不但運(yun)用油炸之法(fa),且在上桌前還得(de)淋上色澤亮麗、酸甜(tian)濃郁的(de)“五柳”糖(tang)醋芡汁,它便是(shi)廣(guang)(guang)東傳(chuan)統名菜(cai)(cai)“松(song)子魚(yu)”。
粵(yue)菜(cai)里的(de)(de)(de)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚的(de)(de)(de)做法來(lai)源于(yu)江浙菜(cai)中(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)鼠(shu)(shu)桂(gui)魚,也不知何時,這道(dao)頗具江南(nan)特色的(de)(de)(de)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)鼠(shu)(shu)桂(gui)魚傳到了(le)廣(guang)東,在(zai)粵(yue)菜(cai)師傅(fu)的(de)(de)(de)創(chuang)新下,成就了(le)一道(dao)經典粵(yue)菜(cai)——“松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚”。粵(yue)菜(cai)的(de)(de)(de)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚是從(cong)江浙菜(cai)的(de)(de)(de)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)鼠(shu)(shu)魚改(gai)良而來(lai),兩者在(zai)味道(dao)上相似,都是甜酸可口、外(wai)酥里嫩,所以往(wang)往(wang)會讓人覺得松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚等同于(yu)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)鼠(shu)(shu)魚。其次,有人認(ren)為,松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚就是在(zai)菜(cai)里加入了(le)松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)而被名為松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚,誤會了(le),松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)魚是因其形似松(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)(song)果(guo)而得名的(de)(de)(de)。
其實,兩道菜無論主配(pei)料和造(zao)型(xing)上(shang)都(dou)是不同(tong)的。
1、首先,兩道菜,魚(yu)的(de)擺盤(pan)造型是有區別的(de),松子(zi)魚(yu)造型似松果,而松鼠(shu)魚(yu)頭魚(yu)尾均擺成翹起的(de)樣子(zi),猶如(ru)一只靈(ling)動的(de)松鼠(shu);
2、其次,在食(shi)材的(de)選(xuan)擇(ze)上也(ye)有所不同,松(song)子魚(yu)(yu)用肉(rou)味(wei)鮮甜的(de)鯇魚(yu)(yu)制(zhi)作;而松(song)鼠魚(yu)(yu)則(ze)選(xuan)用肉(rou)質細嫩,刺(ci)少肉(rou)多的(de)桂花(hua)魚(yu)(yu);
3、至于調味方面,松(song)子魚用粵菜中特有的醬(jiang)汁(zhi)——糖(tang)醋汁(zhi),配上五柳制成(cheng);而松(song)鼠魚是用青豆、冬筍、玉米等(deng)配料加(jia)入到(dao)番茄汁(zhi)里(li)。
松子魚(yu)從起(qi)魚(yu)肉到下油鑊,重點體現的是刀工和火候(hou)。
1、首先(xian)是選料(liao),傳統(tong)松子魚的標準分量是取一(yi)條重約1.5公斤的鯇魚,1.5公斤鯇魚起600克(ke)魚肉。
2、其次是(shi)起肉(rou)。從魚(yu)(yu)(yu)頭(tou)后端(duan)開始切,順著魚(yu)(yu)(yu)背部一(yi)點點地(di)將鯇魚(yu)(yu)(yu)兩側(ce)的(de)(de)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)柳片(pian)下(xia)來,兩邊魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)要起得(de)一(yi)模一(yi)樣(yang),剔下(xia)的(de)(de)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)柳肉(rou)越厚,切出(chu)的(de)(de)松果(guo)(guo)瓣形魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)越長,用(yong)油(you)炸(zha)過后也(ye)才(cai)會(hui)更(geng)好(hao)看;在對魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)用(yong)“人”字刀(dao)(dao)花時要以半斜角約(yue)(yue)45度切入,每(mei)下(xia)一(yi)刀(dao)(dao),相(xiang)距(ju)約(yue)(yue)8毫米,不能把(ba)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)弄破。這做出(chu)來,炸(zha)出(chu)來的(de)(de)魚(yu)(yu)(yu)肉(rou)會(hui)呈(cheng)整齊(qi)漂亮的(de)(de)松果(guo)(guo)狀。
3、然后是(shi)上(shang)(shang)漿上(shang)(shang)粉(fen)(fen)。要(yao)將有刀面的魚(yu)肉先拍(pai)上(shang)(shang)鹽,后用蛋黃(huang)(huang)漿撈勻(yun),讓(rang)蛋黃(huang)(huang)漿覆蓋魚(yu)肉,這(zhe)樣(yang)魚(yu)肉炸出來(lai)才會(hui)完全上(shang)(shang)色。在油(you)炸之前(qian),還(huan)得拍(pai)上(shang)(shang)干生粉(fen)(fen)。
4、最后油炸(zha)。拍(pai)上干(gan)生(sheng)粉(fen)后半分(fen)鐘就得下鑊(huo)(huo)炸(zha),如果這一(yi)時間把握不好,要么魚(yu)肉過于濕身(shen),要么太(tai)干(gan),達(da)(da)不到理想(xiang)的(de)(de)效果。當油溫達(da)(da)到180℃,兩手慢慢將(jiang)魚(yu)放入(ru)油鑊(huo)(huo)。魚(yu)放入(ru)油鑊(huo)(huo)后,改中慢火進行浸炸(zha),有經驗的(de)(de)師(shi)傅(fu)會用鑊(huo)(huo)鏟敲(qiao)一(yi)敲(qiao)魚(yu)身(shen),當發現魚(yu)身(shen)變硬(ying)時即表明已差不多。
5、最后一(yi)步是淋汁(zhi)。一(yi)般(ban)會用(yong)到五(wu)柳料和(he)青(qing)紅椒粒、蒜(suan)(suan)蓉(rong)和(he)蔥(cong)白(bai)粒。其(qi)中(zhong)五(wu)柳料是用(yong)“小料”,即切成比米粒略(lve)大的粒狀,這(zhe)樣(yang)才能與其(qi)它(ta)同為粒狀的配料相呼應。用(yong)蒜(suan)(suan)蓉(rong)來起(qi)鑊后,加蔥(cong)白(bai)粒和(he)青(qing)紅椒粒一(yi)起(qi)翻炒(chao),最后五(wu)柳料加入(ru)糖醋汁(zhi)里(li),做成醬汁(zhi),淋在炸好的魚(yu)身上,一(yi)道(dao)松子魚(yu)便大功告成了。
松(song)子魚(yu)可(ke)以(yi)說是完美地將(jiang)粵(yue)菜擅長兼收并(bing)蓄、洋為(wei)中用的(de)特(te)點發(fa)揮得淋(lin)漓盡致。五柳松(song)子魚(yu)的(de)特(te)色是魚(yu)肉鮮嫩,魚(yu)皮香脆,佐以(yi)五柳糖醋汁,酸(suan)甜可(ke)口。
五柳(liu)松子魚的肉(rou)質細(xi)嫩,含(han)有蛋(dan)白(bai)質、脂肪、少量維生(sheng)素(su)、鈣(gai)、鉀、鎂、硒等營(ying)養(yang)元素(su),具有補氣血、益脾胃的滋補功效,適宜體質衰弱、營(ying)養(yang)不良(liang)之人食用。