云崖勝境
云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)的(de)(de)(de)具體(ti)位置在(zai)今(jin)甘肅省平(ping)涼市莊(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)浪縣韓店鄉(xiang)東南(nan)(nan),距離莊(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)浪縣城(cheng)28公(gong)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)關山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)自然(ran)森林(lin)峽(xia)(xia)谷(gu)深處。因寺(si)(si)(si)(si)內石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)眾(zhong)多(duo)(duo),景(jing)色秀麗,與平(ping)涼崆(kong)峒山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、天水(shui)(shui)麥積山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、仙(xian)人(ren)崖(ya)(ya)等(deng)勝(sheng)地(di)(di)齊名(ming)(ming)(ming),被列(lie)為(wei)(wei)國家級森林(lin)公(gong)園、國家級文(wen)(wen)物保(bao)護單位。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)所(suo)在(zai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng),古稱(cheng)主(zhu)(zhu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。清(qing)(qing)(qing)《嘉慶重修一(yi)(yi)(yi)統志(zhi)》記載(zai):“以山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)勢(shi)獨高而名(ming)(ming)(ming),其(qi)中(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)嶺回環,溪流(liu)縈帶。”以云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)心,在(zai)方(fang)圓不(bu)到(dao)5公(gong)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)范圍內,有(you)(you)(you)著(zhu)名(ming)(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)八大寺(si)(si)(si)(si)以及店灣、店峽(xia)(xia)、木匠爺崖(ya)(ya)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)和三教洞,形成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)條蔚(yu)為(wei)(wei)壯(zhuang)觀(guan)的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)群(qun)[2] 。據(ju)當(dang)地(di)(di)文(wen)(wen)物部(bu)門(men)官員介紹,已(yi)發現(xian)的(de)(de)(de)73孔(kong)中(zhong)有(you)(you)(you)石(shi)(shi)造像22尊,塑像128尊,還有(you)(you)(you)大量的(de)(de)(de)壁(bi)畫、題記等(deng)。多(duo)(duo)年(nian)來(lai)經(jing)(jing)考古界(jie)研究,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)始鑿于(yu)北魏后期,經(jing)(jing)過數朝(chao)(chao)修繕到(dao)明朝(chao)(chao)時進入鼎盛(sheng)時期,從清(qing)(qing)(qing)末開始逐(zhu)漸歸于(yu)沉寂,漸漸衰落。 從山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)沿便(bian)道步行(xing)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)小(xiao)時左右(you),就(jiu)來(lai)到(dao)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)腳(jiao)下(xia)。遠遠望去(qu),山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)呈麥垛(duo)狀,與周圍群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)呼應(ying)連綿(mian)。正面(mian)(mian)(mian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)陡(dou)立(li),絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)中(zhong)央部(bu)位分(fen)布著(zhu)三層建筑,錯落有(you)(you)(you)致(zhi),看上(shang)(shang)去(qu)像是(shi)嵌在(zai)峭壁(bi)上(shang)(shang),懸空而里(li)(li),令人(ren)驚嘆不(bu)已(yi)。莊(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)浪縣文(wen)(wen)體(ti)局副局長王亞(ya)彬告訴我們(men),云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座距今(jin)1600多(duo)(duo)年(nian)歷(li)史的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)寺(si)(si)(si)(si),是(shi)當(dang)地(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)處集石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)藝術與天然(ran)美景(jing)于(yu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)身的(de)(de)(de)風景(jing)區(qu)。“整個(ge)景(jing)區(qu)東西寬13.75公(gong)里(li)(li),南(nan)(nan)北長32.25公(gong)里(li)(li)。帶狀景(jing)區(qu),里(li)(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)、有(you)(you)(you)水(shui)(shui)、有(you)(you)(you)樹,而且有(you)(you)(you)歷(li)經(jing)(jing)滄桑的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)雕塑,這(zhe)樣的(de)(de)(de)景(jing)點(dian)在(zai)國內也是(shi)很少見的(de)(de)(de)。”而最為(wei)(wei)當(dang)地(di)(di)人(ren)所(suo)稱(cheng)頌的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)文(wen)(wen)景(jing)觀(guan)主(zhu)(zhu)要(yao)是(shi)由(you)朱林(lin)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、大寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、西寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、喬陽寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、金瓦寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、佛溝寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、三清(qing)(qing)(qing)洞、羅(luo)漢洞、殿灣等(deng)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)洞組成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)群(qun)。史載(zai)“山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)勢(shi)環抱,溪水(shui)(shui)瀠洄,松杉(shan)柏(bo)檜,翠竹名(ming)(ming)(ming)花(hua),蔚(yu)蔚(yu)蒼蒼,青蔥(cong)掩映,且多(duo)(duo)仙(xian)蹤古跡,無(wu)地(di)(di)不(bu)爽人(ren)心目(mu)。”是(shi)對云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)勝(sheng)境的(de)(de)(de)真實寫照(zhao)。 據(ju)《增修華亭縣志(zhi)》記載(zai):宋代僧人(ren)法印(yin)辟白云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞,“其(qi)洞朝(chao)(chao)夕多(duo)(duo)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),而云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)多(duo)(duo)白,”四時“洞中(zhong)出(chu)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞上(shang)(shang)盤云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞前云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)駐,洞底云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)擎(qing)。”因而得名(ming)(ming)(ming)。目(mu)前云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)(zhu)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)存(cun)大量石(shi)(shi)造像和泥塑像,從時間上(shang)(shang)推定以北魏、北周時期為(wei)(wei)多(duo)(duo)。頂峰(feng)(feng)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)玉皇(huang)頂,又名(ming)(ming)(ming)中(zhong)臺(tai),其(qi)下(xia)東西南(nan)(nan)北四臺(tai)環拱(gong)。東臺(tai)后面(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)筆架峰(feng)(feng),西臺(tai)后面(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)獅子峰(feng)(feng),南(nan)(nan)臺(tai)后面(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)升云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)峰(feng)(feng),北臺(tai)后面(mian)(mian)(mian)有(you)(you)(you)神(shen)仙(xian)桌峰(feng)(feng)。眾(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)相(xiang)擁,綿(mian)延且自成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)體(ti),巍然(ran)聳立(li),風景(jing)絕(jue)(jue)勝(sheng)。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)風景(jing)迷人(ren),勝(sheng)跡很多(duo)(duo),其(qi)境內異峰(feng)(feng)疊起,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)蒸(zheng)霧(wu)繞,密林(lin)參天,綠(lv)茵遍地(di)(di);曲徑幽(you)幽(you),流(liu)水(shui)(shui)淙淙。從山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)至絕(jue)(jue)頂,層巒疊嶂,萬(wan)木蔥(cong)蘢。登上(shang)(shang)眾(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)環拱(gong)的(de)(de)(de)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)主(zhu)(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)——玉皇(huang)絕(jue)(jue)頂,猶如置身大海碧濤,腳(jiao)下(xia)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)開霧(wu)合,怪(guai)石(shi)(shi)崢嶸,奇(qi)峰(feng)(feng)兀(wu)立(li)。云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)、白云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞等(deng)勝(sheng)景(jing)奇(qi)觀(guan)就(jiu)鑲嵌在(zai)此峰(feng)(feng)正面(mian)(mian)(mian)裸(luo)露的(de)(de)(de)懸崖(ya)(ya)峭壁(bi)之上(shang)(shang)。
美麗傳說
來云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)游(you)覽的(de)人,都喜歡登頂(ding)觀(guan)(guan)景。盛(sheng)夏時登上(shang)玉皇頂(ding)極目遠眺(tiao),茫茫林(lin)海(hai)之(zhi)中,秀嶺奇(qi)(qi)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),鱗次(ci)櫛比,猶(you)如(ru)(ru)八百羅漢(han)列坐誦經。近觀(guan)(guan)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya),東(dong)(dong)(dong)西南北四臺(tai)(tai)環拱,似(si)眾(zhong)(zhong)星(xing)捧月(yue)。對(dui)面南臺(tai)(tai),如(ru)(ru)經書(shu)開(kai)卷,又(you)如(ru)(ru)歸鶴展翅(chi)(chi),故有(you)(you)(you)“歸鶴來戲”之(zhi)傳(chuan)說。山(shan)(shan)后(hou)金牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、雪山(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、雷聲(sheng)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)數峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)兀立。山(shan)(shan)前(qian)長(chang)嶺上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)兩條(tiao)石(shi)縫,傳(chuan)說是(shi)一(yi)喇嘛(ma)施(shi)用法術,從(cong)金牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)盜(dao)得金牛(niu)后(hou)沒收住,又(you)從(cong)前(qian)山(shan)(shan)鉆了(le)進去(qu),這(zhe)條(tiao)石(shi)縫就是(shi)被金牛(niu)擠破的(de),民間(jian)稱(cheng)(cheng)“金牛(niu)鼻(bi)子(zi)”。山(shan)(shan)后(hou)的(de)北臺(tai)(tai),由(you)筆(bi)架山(shan)(shan)、棋(qi)盤(pan)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、神仙(xian)桌、臥駝峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、金瓦寺(si)(si)(si)山(shan)(shan)等五峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)匯集而成(cheng)(cheng),與前(qian)面的(de)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合(he)成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)幅“五老觀(guan)(guan)太極”的(de)畫圖,意(yi)趣盎然(ran)。東(dong)(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)左(zuo)側,又(you)名(ming)(ming)觀(guan)(guan)音山(shan)(shan),巍峨(e)高(gao)(gao)聳,赤壁(bi)千仞(ren),靠近云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)的(de)一(yi)壁(bi)叫八仙(xian)崖(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)觀(guan)(guan)音洞(dong)、湘子(zi)洞(dong)等五窟,摩崖(ya)(ya)(ya)造像隱約可見。東(dong)(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)后(hou)有(you)(you)(you)天(tian)女峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),山(shan)(shan)勢(shi)險絕(jue)(jue),如(ru)(ru)仙(xian)女凌空而降。東(dong)(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)對(dui)面絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)聳立,名(ming)(ming)獅子(zi)嶺,其勢(shi)如(ru)(ru)獅子(zi)蹲臥,背(bei)上(shang)小峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)突起,宛若(ruo)軍士列隊,故又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)行軍峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)。云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)之(zhi)右為西臺(tai)(tai),另(ling)稱(cheng)(cheng)羅漢(han)崖(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)面鷹洞(dong)壘壘如(ru)(ru)蜂窩(wo),俗名(ming)(ming)“蜂兒坯子(zi)”。山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)怪石(shi)林(lin)立,錯落有(you)(you)(you)致(zhi)。東(dong)(dong)(dong)西二臺(tai)(tai)呼(hu)應對(dui)稱(cheng)(cheng),似(si)兩個翅(chi)(chi)膀,插在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)軀體上(shang)。 沿云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)河前(qian)行,依次(ci)有(you)(you)(you)大寺(si)(si)(si)溝、鹽場(chang)子(zi)、紅(hong)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)等勝跡。大寺(si)(si)(si)溝有(you)(you)(you)懸(xuan)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)峭壁(bi)、茂林(lin)深草,中間(jian)小溪奔涌,清澈(che)見底,大寺(si)(si)(si)、西寺(si)(si)(si)、殿(dian)灣等石(shi)窟分布在(zai)這(zhe)條(tiao)溝里。而峭壁(bi)間(jian)古(gu)代棧道(dao)的(de)印(yin)記依然(ran)清晰。莊浪(lang)縣旅游(you)局官員介紹,云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)及周邊各(ge)個寺(si)(si)(si)院遙(yao)相呼(hu)應,在(zai)整個景區(qu)內到處(chu)都有(you)(you)(you)古(gu)人生活的(de)影子(zi)。其中最(zui)為壯(zhuang)觀(guan)(guan)的(de),是(shi)那(nei)些千尺絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi),有(you)(you)(you)的(de)形如(ru)(ru)睡獅,有(you)(you)(you)的(de)高(gao)(gao)似(si)層樓,有(you)(you)(you)的(de)懸(xuan)若(ruo)閣檐,有(you)(you)(you)的(de)勢(shi)如(ru)(ru)飛瀑。在(zai)眾(zhong)(zhong)多(duo)峭壁(bi)間(jian),最(zui)有(you)(you)(you)傳(chuan)奇(qi)(qi)色彩的(de)一(yi)座叫“舍身(shen)(shen)堡”。莊浪(lang)縣文體局副局長(chang)王亞彬告訴(su)我(wo)們(men),相傳(chuan)一(yi)位篤信佛(fo)教的(de)木工,修(xiu)建(jian)好(hao)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)群之(zhi)后(hou),不(bu)慎從(cong)此險絕(jue)(jue)處(chu)墜下懸(xuan)崖(ya)(ya)(ya),粉身(shen)(shen)碎骨。時人認為是(shi)脫(tuo)化成(cheng)(cheng)佛(fo)了(le),為了(le)紀(ji)念,稱(cheng)(cheng)此崖(ya)(ya)(ya)為“舍身(shen)(shen)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)”,也稱(cheng)(cheng)“木匠崖(ya)(ya)(ya)”,并為其鑿洞(dong)塑像,造像至今(jin)還(huan)保(bao)存(cun)于崖(ya)(ya)(ya)洞(dong)中。
紅崖寺與竹林寺
距(ju)離云(yun)崖(ya)寺(si)深處不足一(yi)公(gong)里(li)處,有(you)一(yi)片30多畝空曠(kuang)寬(kuan)敞的(de)(de)草灘,為(wei)鹽場(chang)子,曾經是(shi)絲綢古道上車馬輻(fu)輳、駝隊云(yun)集(ji)的(de)(de)驛站(zhan),其平平展展的(de)(de)地勢和荒涼(liang)蕭瑟的(de)(de)景色,記載(zai)著當(dang)年的(de)(de)喧(xuan)囂和繁華(hua)。鹽場(chang)子對面(mian)有(you)一(yi)峽谷,遠遠望去,一(yi)道石(shi)崖(ya)橫亙面(mian)前,石(shi)崖(ya)上面(mian)大小窟龕呈一(yi)字形(xing)排列,這就是(shi)紅崖(ya)寺(si)。紅崖(ya)寺(si)石(shi)窟,較(jiao)馳名的(de)(de)有(you)兩洞,一(yi)為(wei)千佛(fo)洞、一(yi)為(wei)文王(wang)百子洞。從云(yun)崖(ya)寺(si)順流而下,依次可見秋千架、竹(zhu)林寺(si)。
秋千架由(you)兩兩柱突(tu)兀而(er)起(qi)的(de)(de)巨大石筍并立而(er)成(cheng),狀(zhuang)如炳靈(ling)姊妹峰(feng),可望而(er)不可即。相傳王(wang)母(mu)娘娘曾(ceng)(ceng)慕(mu)名來(lai)到這塊風景秀麗的(de)(de)地方游玩,支了秋千架,蕩起(qi)秋千,十分盡興。竹(zhu)林寺面對的(de)(de)華(hua)莊公路,據考證這里(li)曾(ceng)(ceng)立過(guo)集市,作過(guo)鎮公所,更多的(de)(de)用(yong)場(chang)是(shi)過(guo)往客店(dian)。其丹(dan)崖(ya)峭(qiao)壁上也(ye)刻鑿著石窟,星(xing)星(xing)點點。 1922年,國民黨元老于右任先(xian)生從崇信取(qu)道天水,投宿(su)于此,在一回(hui)民兒童的(de)(de)導引下(xia)攀崖(ya)登(deng)游,臨行賦詩(shi):“投宿(su)竹(zhu)(朱)林寺,摩崖(ya)時(shi)隱見(jian),昔(xi)日梵王(wang)宮,今(jin)作回(hui)回(hui)店(dian)……。”
如(ru)今(jin)的(de)(de)竹林寺(si),最引人注意(yi)的(de)(de)是一座規模宏大的(de)(de)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku),水(shui)(shui)(shui)域面積43.4平方公里,庫(ku)容577萬立方米(mi),游(you)人到此(ci),猶如(ru)置身天山的(de)(de)天池邊。竹林寺(si)水(shui)(shui)(shui)庫(ku)被命名為國家(jia)水(shui)(shui)(shui)利風景區。 云崖寺(si)不(bu)僅有(you)珍(zhen)(zhen)貴的(de)(de)人文資(zi)源,還有(you)著豐富的(de)(de)自然資(zi)源,各種野生植(zhi)物生長(chang)茂盛(sheng),白(bai)樺、松柏、山楊、山柳、椴、箭竹等(deng)10多種主體林木聯綴成22萬余畝林海。紛(fen)繁復雜的(de)(de)森林植(zhi)被中,蘊藏了黨(dang)參、杜仲、豬苓、丹(dan)皮(pi)等(deng)300多種藥(yao)材(cai)資(zi)源,也為金(jin)錢豹(bao)、梅花鹿、麝獐、錦雞(ji)等(deng)珍(zhen)(zhen)禽(qin)異獸提供了繁衍生息的(de)(de)風水(shui)(shui)(shui)寶(bao)地(di)。
交通信息
(1)自天水汽(qi)(qi)車(che)總站、平涼汽(qi)(qi)車(che)西站乘(cheng)大巴到莊浪(lang)縣(xian)(xian)城,然后在莊浪(lang)汽(qi)(qi)車(che)站乘(cheng)“水洛-韓店(dian)-云崖寺(si)”的縣(xian)(xian)域(yu)公(gong)交車(che)(6元/人)直達景(jing)區(qu);
(2)自華亭(ting)(ting)縣(xian)城(cheng)乘(cheng)華亭(ting)(ting)到(dao)莊浪的中巴,中途在景區北(bei)門入口下車(che)即可(最近關山隧道正(zheng)在施(shi)工,交(jiao)通暫(zan)停);
(3)景(jing)區(qu)北(bei)門(men)沒(mei)有(you)觀光(guang)車,只能從北(bei)門(men)步行2.2km翻過大(da)(da)(da)壩到聚仙橋,自聚仙橋有(you)景(jing)區(qu)內的(de)觀光(guang)車可到云(yun)崖寺、大(da)(da)(da)寺、鹽(yan)場子(zi)(zi)(鹽(yan)場子(zi)(zi)可從景(jing)區(qu)東門(men)向南到達),觀光(guang)車費用:聚仙橋(3元)云(yun)崖寺(10元)大(da)(da)(da)寺、云(yun)崖寺(10元)鹽(yan)場子(zi)(zi)。