云崖勝境
云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)具體(ti)位置(zhi)在(zai)(zai)(zai)今(jin)(jin)甘肅省平涼(liang)市莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)韓店(dian)鄉東南,距離莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)城(cheng)28公里的(de)(de)(de)(de)關山(shan)(shan)(shan)自然森林峽谷深處。因(yin)(yin)寺(si)(si)(si)內石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)眾(zhong)多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo),景(jing)色(se)秀麗,與平涼(liang)崆峒山(shan)(shan)(shan)、天水(shui)(shui)(shui)麥積(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)、仙(xian)人崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)等(deng)勝(sheng)(sheng)地(di)齊(qi)名(ming)(ming),被列為(wei)(wei)(wei)國家(jia)級(ji)森林公園、國家(jia)級(ji)文物保護單位。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)所在(zai)(zai)(zai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng),古稱(cheng)主(zhu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。清(qing)(qing)《嘉慶重修(xiu)(xiu)一統志(zhi)》記載(zai):“以(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢獨高(gao)而名(ming)(ming),其中(zhong)(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)嶺回環,溪流縈帶。”以(yi)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)為(wei)(wei)(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)心,在(zai)(zai)(zai)方圓不到5公里的(de)(de)(de)(de)范圍(wei)(wei)內,有(you)著(zhu)名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)八(ba)大寺(si)(si)(si)以(yi)及店(dian)灣、店(dian)峽、木(mu)匠爺崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)和三(san)教洞(dong)(dong),形成一條(tiao)蔚為(wei)(wei)(wei)壯觀的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)群[2] 。據當地(di)文物部門官(guan)員介紹(shao),已(yi)發現的(de)(de)(de)(de)73孔中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)石(shi)(shi)造(zao)像(xiang)22尊,塑像(xiang)128尊,還有(you)大量(liang)(liang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)壁(bi)(bi)畫、題(ti)記等(deng)。多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)年(nian)來(lai)經(jing)(jing)考古界研究,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)始鑿于(yu)北(bei)魏后期,經(jing)(jing)過數朝(chao)修(xiu)(xiu)繕到明朝(chao)時(shi)進(jin)入鼎盛時(shi)期,從(cong)(cong)清(qing)(qing)末開始逐漸歸(gui)于(yu)沉寂,漸漸衰落(luo)。 從(cong)(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)沿便(bian)道步行一個小(xiao)時(shi)左(zuo)右,就來(lai)到云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)腳下(xia)。遠遠望去,山(shan)(shan)(shan)呈麥垛狀,與周圍(wei)(wei)群山(shan)(shan)(shan)呼應連綿。正(zheng)面(mian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)峰(feng)(feng)絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)(bi)陡(dou)立(li),絕(jue)(jue)壁(bi)(bi)中(zhong)(zhong)央部位分布著(zhu)三(san)層(ceng)(ceng)建(jian)筑,錯落(luo)有(you)致,看上(shang)去像(xiang)是(shi)嵌在(zai)(zai)(zai)峭(qiao)壁(bi)(bi)上(shang),懸空而里,令人驚嘆不已(yi)。莊(zhuang)浪(lang)縣(xian)文體(ti)局副局長王亞彬告訴我們,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)是(shi)一座(zuo)距今(jin)(jin)1600多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)年(nian)歷史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)寺(si)(si)(si),是(shi)當地(di)一處集石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)藝(yi)術與天然美景(jing)于(yu)一身(shen)的(de)(de)(de)(de)風景(jing)區。“整個景(jing)區東西寬13.75公里,南北(bei)長32.25公里。帶狀景(jing)區,里面(mian)有(you)山(shan)(shan)(shan)、有(you)水(shui)(shui)(shui)、有(you)樹,而且有(you)歷經(jing)(jing)滄桑的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)雕(diao)塑,這(zhe)樣(yang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)點在(zai)(zai)(zai)國內也(ye)是(shi)很少見的(de)(de)(de)(de)。”而最(zui)為(wei)(wei)(wei)當地(di)人所稱(cheng)頌的(de)(de)(de)(de)人文景(jing)觀主(zhu)要(yao)是(shi)由朱林寺(si)(si)(si)、大寺(si)(si)(si)、西寺(si)(si)(si)、喬(qiao)陽寺(si)(si)(si)、金(jin)瓦寺(si)(si)(si)、佛溝(gou)寺(si)(si)(si)、三(san)清(qing)(qing)洞(dong)(dong)、羅(luo)漢洞(dong)(dong)、殿灣等(deng)寺(si)(si)(si)洞(dong)(dong)組(zu)成的(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)群。史(shi)載(zai)“山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢環抱,溪水(shui)(shui)(shui)瀠(ying)洄(hui),松(song)杉柏檜,翠竹名(ming)(ming)花,蔚蔚蒼蒼,青蔥掩映,且多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)仙(xian)蹤古跡,無地(di)不爽人心目。”是(shi)對云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)勝(sheng)(sheng)境的(de)(de)(de)(de)真(zhen)實寫照。 據《增修(xiu)(xiu)華(hua)亭縣(xian)志(zhi)》記載(zai):宋代僧人法印辟白(bai)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞(dong)(dong),“其洞(dong)(dong)朝(chao)夕多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),而云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)白(bai),”四時(shi)“洞(dong)(dong)中(zhong)(zhong)出云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞(dong)(dong)上(shang)盤云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun),洞(dong)(dong)前云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)駐,洞(dong)(dong)底云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)擎。”因(yin)(yin)而得名(ming)(ming)。目前云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)主(zhu)寺(si)(si)(si)存大量(liang)(liang)石(shi)(shi)造(zao)像(xiang)和泥塑像(xiang),從(cong)(cong)時(shi)間上(shang)推定以(yi)北(bei)魏、北(bei)周時(shi)期為(wei)(wei)(wei)多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo)。頂(ding)峰(feng)(feng)稱(cheng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)玉皇頂(ding),又(you)名(ming)(ming)中(zhong)(zhong)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),其下(xia)東西南北(bei)四臺(tai)(tai)(tai)環拱(gong)。東臺(tai)(tai)(tai)后面(mian)有(you)筆架峰(feng)(feng),西臺(tai)(tai)(tai)后面(mian)有(you)獅子(zi)峰(feng)(feng),南臺(tai)(tai)(tai)后面(mian)有(you)升(sheng)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)峰(feng)(feng),北(bei)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)后面(mian)有(you)神仙(xian)桌峰(feng)(feng)。眾(zhong)峰(feng)(feng)相擁,綿延且自成一體(ti),巍然聳立(li),風景(jing)絕(jue)(jue)勝(sheng)(sheng)。 云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)風景(jing)迷人,勝(sheng)(sheng)跡很多(duo)(duo)(duo)(duo),其境內異(yi)峰(feng)(feng)疊起,云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)蒸霧繞,密(mi)林參天,綠茵遍地(di);曲徑幽(you)幽(you),流水(shui)(shui)(shui)淙淙。從(cong)(cong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下(xia)至絕(jue)(jue)頂(ding),層(ceng)(ceng)巒疊嶂,萬(wan)木(mu)蔥蘢。登上(shang)眾(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)環拱(gong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主(zhu)峰(feng)(feng)——玉皇絕(jue)(jue)頂(ding),猶如置(zhi)身(shen)大海(hai)碧(bi)濤,腳下(xia)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)開霧合,怪石(shi)(shi)崢嶸,奇峰(feng)(feng)兀立(li)。云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)石(shi)(shi)窟(ku)(ku)、白(bai)云(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)洞(dong)(dong)等(deng)勝(sheng)(sheng)景(jing)奇觀就鑲(xiang)嵌在(zai)(zai)(zai)此峰(feng)(feng)正(zheng)面(mian)裸露的(de)(de)(de)(de)懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峭(qiao)壁(bi)(bi)之上(shang)。
美麗傳說
來云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)游(you)覽的(de)(de)人,都喜歡登(deng)頂觀景(jing)。盛夏時(shi)(shi)登(deng)上玉皇頂極目遠眺,茫茫林(lin)海(hai)之中(zhong),秀嶺(ling)奇峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),鱗次櫛(zhi)比,猶如(ru)八(ba)百羅漢列坐誦經(jing)。近觀云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),東西(xi)(xi)南(nan)北(bei)四(si)臺環拱,似眾(zhong)星(xing)捧月。對面南(nan)臺,如(ru)經(jing)書(shu)開卷,又如(ru)歸(gui)鶴展(zhan)翅,故(gu)有(you)“歸(gui)鶴來戲”之傳(chuan)說。山后金(jin)牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、雪(xue)山峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、雷聲峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)數峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)兀立(li)。山前長嶺(ling)上有(you)兩(liang)條石縫,傳(chuan)說是一(yi)(yi)喇嘛施用法術,從金(jin)牛(niu)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)盜得金(jin)牛(niu)后沒收住,又從前山鉆了進去,這條石縫就是被金(jin)牛(niu)擠破的(de)(de),民(min)間(jian)(jian)(jian)稱(cheng)“金(jin)牛(niu)鼻子(zi)(zi)”。山后的(de)(de)北(bei)臺,由筆架山、棋盤峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、神(shen)仙(xian)桌、臥(wo)駝峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)、金(jin)瓦寺(si)(si)(si)(si)山等五峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)匯集而成,與前面的(de)(de)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)合成一(yi)(yi)幅“五老觀太極”的(de)(de)畫圖,意趣盎(ang)然(ran)。東臺在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)左側,又名(ming)觀音(yin)山,巍(wei)峨(e)高(gao)聳(song),赤壁千(qian)仞,靠近云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)壁叫八(ba)仙(xian)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)上有(you)觀音(yin)洞(dong)、湘子(zi)(zi)洞(dong)等五窟,摩崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)造像隱約可(ke)見。東臺后有(you)天女峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng),山勢(shi)險(xian)絕(jue),如(ru)仙(xian)女凌空而降。東臺對面絕(jue)壁聳(song)立(li),名(ming)獅(shi)子(zi)(zi)嶺(ling),其(qi)勢(shi)如(ru)獅(shi)子(zi)(zi)蹲臥(wo),背(bei)上小(xiao)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)突起,宛若軍士列隊,故(gu)又稱(cheng)行(xing)軍峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)。云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)之右為西(xi)(xi)臺,另稱(cheng)羅漢崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)面鷹洞(dong)壘壘如(ru)蜂窩,俗名(ming)“蜂兒坯子(zi)(zi)”。山頂怪石林(lin)立(li),錯落有(you)致(zhi)。東西(xi)(xi)二(er)臺呼(hu)應(ying)(ying)對稱(cheng),似兩(liang)個(ge)翅膀(bang),插在(zai)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)主峰(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)軀體上。 沿(yan)云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)河(he)前行(xing),依次有(you)大(da)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)溝、鹽場子(zi)(zi)、紅崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)等勝(sheng)跡。大(da)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)溝有(you)懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)峭(qiao)壁、茂林(lin)深草,中(zhong)間(jian)(jian)(jian)小(xiao)溪奔涌,清澈見底,大(da)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、西(xi)(xi)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)、殿灣(wan)等石窟分(fen)布在(zai)這條溝里。而峭(qiao)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian)古(gu)代棧道(dao)的(de)(de)印記依然(ran)清晰(xi)。莊浪縣(xian)旅(lv)游(you)局官員介紹,云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)及(ji)周邊各個(ge)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)院遙相(xiang)(xiang)呼(hu)應(ying)(ying),在(zai)整個(ge)景(jing)區(qu)內到處都有(you)古(gu)人生活的(de)(de)影(ying)子(zi)(zi)。其(qi)中(zhong)最為壯觀的(de)(de),是那些千(qian)尺絕(jue)壁,有(you)的(de)(de)形如(ru)睡(shui)獅(shi),有(you)的(de)(de)高(gao)似層樓,有(you)的(de)(de)懸若閣檐,有(you)的(de)(de)勢(shi)如(ru)飛瀑。在(zai)眾(zhong)多(duo)峭(qiao)壁間(jian)(jian)(jian),最有(you)傳(chuan)奇色(se)彩的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)座叫“舍身(shen)堡(bao)”。莊浪縣(xian)文體局副局長王亞彬告訴我們(men),相(xiang)(xiang)傳(chuan)一(yi)(yi)位(wei)篤信佛教的(de)(de)木工(gong),修建好云(yun)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)寺(si)(si)(si)(si)群之后,不慎(shen)從此險(xian)絕(jue)處墜下懸崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),粉身(shen)碎骨。時(shi)(shi)人認為是脫(tuo)化成佛了,為了紀念,稱(cheng)此崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)為“舍身(shen)崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)”,也(ye)稱(cheng)“木匠崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)”,并為其(qi)鑿洞(dong)塑像,造像至今(jin)還(huan)保存于崖(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)洞(dong)中(zhong)。
紅崖寺與竹林寺
距離云崖(ya)寺深處(chu)(chu)不(bu)足一公里(li)處(chu)(chu),有(you)一片30多畝空曠寬(kuan)敞的(de)草(cao)灘,為(wei)(wei)鹽場(chang)子(zi),曾(ceng)經是絲綢古(gu)道(dao)上車馬(ma)輻輳、駝隊云集的(de)驛站,其平(ping)平(ping)展展的(de)地勢(shi)和(he)荒涼蕭(xiao)瑟的(de)景色,記(ji)載著當年(nian)的(de)喧囂和(he)繁華。鹽場(chang)子(zi)對面(mian)有(you)一峽谷,遠遠望去,一道(dao)石(shi)崖(ya)橫亙(gen)面(mian)前,石(shi)崖(ya)上面(mian)大小窟龕呈一字形(xing)排列(lie),這就是紅崖(ya)寺。紅崖(ya)寺石(shi)窟,較馳(chi)名(ming)的(de)有(you)兩洞(dong),一為(wei)(wei)千(qian)佛洞(dong)、一為(wei)(wei)文王百(bai)子(zi)洞(dong)。從云崖(ya)寺順流而(er)下,依次可見秋千(qian)架、竹林寺。
秋(qiu)千架由兩(liang)(liang)兩(liang)(liang)柱(zhu)突兀而起的(de)(de)巨大(da)石(shi)筍并立而成,狀如炳靈姊妹峰,可望而不可即。相傳(chuan)王母娘娘曾(ceng)慕名來到這塊風景秀麗的(de)(de)地(di)方游(you)玩,支了(le)秋(qiu)千架,蕩起秋(qiu)千,十分盡(jin)興。竹林寺面對的(de)(de)華莊公(gong)路(lu),據考證這里曾(ceng)立過集市,作(zuo)過鎮公(gong)所,更(geng)多的(de)(de)用(yong)場是過往客店(dian)。其(qi)丹崖(ya)峭壁上也刻鑿(zao)著(zhu)石(shi)窟,星星點點。 1922年,國民黨元(yuan)老于(yu)右任先(xian)生從崇信取道天水,投宿于(yu)此,在一(yi)回(hui)(hui)民兒(er)童(tong)的(de)(de)導引(yin)下(xia)攀(pan)崖(ya)登游(you),臨行(xing)賦詩:“投宿竹(朱)林寺,摩崖(ya)時隱見,昔日(ri)梵王宮,今作(zuo)回(hui)(hui)回(hui)(hui)店(dian)……。”
如今的(de)(de)(de)竹(zhu)林(lin)寺(si),最引人(ren)注意的(de)(de)(de)是一座規模宏大的(de)(de)(de)水庫,水域面積(ji)43.4平方公里,庫容(rong)577萬立方米,游人(ren)到此,猶如置身天山(shan)的(de)(de)(de)天池邊。竹(zhu)林(lin)寺(si)水庫被(bei)命名為(wei)國家(jia)水利(li)風景區。 云崖寺(si)不(bu)僅有(you)珍(zhen)(zhen)貴的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)文資源(yuan),還有(you)著豐富的(de)(de)(de)自然(ran)資源(yuan),各種(zhong)野生植物生長茂盛,白樺、松柏、山(shan)楊、山(shan)柳(liu)、椴、箭竹(zhu)等(deng)10多種(zhong)主體林(lin)木聯綴成22萬余畝林(lin)海(hai)。紛繁(fan)復雜的(de)(de)(de)森林(lin)植被(bei)中,蘊藏(zang)了(le)黨參、杜仲、豬苓、丹皮(pi)等(deng)300多種(zhong)藥材資源(yuan),也為(wei)金錢(qian)豹、梅花鹿、麝獐、錦雞等(deng)珍(zhen)(zhen)禽(qin)異(yi)獸提供了(le)繁(fan)衍生息(xi)的(de)(de)(de)風水寶地(di)。
交通信息
(1)自(zi)天水(shui)汽車總站(zhan)、平涼汽車西站(zhan)乘(cheng)大巴到莊浪(lang)(lang)縣城,然后在莊浪(lang)(lang)汽車站(zhan)乘(cheng)“水(shui)洛-韓店-云崖寺(si)”的縣域公(gong)交車(6元(yuan)/人(ren))直達景區;
(2)自(zi)華亭(ting)縣城乘華亭(ting)到莊(zhuang)浪的中(zhong)巴,中(zhong)途在景(jing)區北門入口下車即可(ke)(最近關山隧道正在施工(gong),交通暫(zan)停);
(3)景(jing)區北門(men)沒(mei)有觀(guan)光車,只(zhi)能從北門(men)步行(xing)2.2km翻(fan)過大(da)(da)壩到(dao)聚仙(xian)(xian)(xian)橋(qiao)(qiao),自(zi)聚仙(xian)(xian)(xian)橋(qiao)(qiao)有景(jing)區內的觀(guan)光車可到(dao)云崖(ya)寺(si)、大(da)(da)寺(si)、鹽(yan)(yan)場(chang)子(zi)(zi)(鹽(yan)(yan)場(chang)子(zi)(zi)可從景(jing)區東門(men)向南到(dao)達),觀(guan)光車費(fei)用:聚仙(xian)(xian)(xian)橋(qiao)(qiao)(3元(yuan))云崖(ya)寺(si)(10元(yuan))大(da)(da)寺(si)、云崖(ya)寺(si)(10元(yuan))鹽(yan)(yan)場(chang)子(zi)(zi)。