一、買什么材質的靴子好
每(mei)種(zhong)材質都有自己的優點和缺(que)點,接下(xia)來將簡單(dan)介紹:
1、牛皮
分為黃(huang)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、水(shui)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)等,一(yi)般(ban)黃(huang)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)的(de)強(qiang)(qiang)度優于(yu)水(shui)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)。根據牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)的(de)年齡(ling)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)又可(ke)(ke)分為胎牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、小牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、中牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、大(da)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi),一(yi)般(ban)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)的(de)年齡(ling)越小的(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)價(jia)格(ge)越貴,檔次(ci)越高,但(dan)并不代表價(jia)格(ge)越高皮(pi)(pi)(pi)強(qiang)(qiang)度越好。牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)一(yi)般(ban)又可(ke)(ke)分為頭層(ceng)(ceng)和二層(ceng)(ceng),頭層(ceng)(ceng)一(yi)般(ban)用于(yu)制作皮(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋鞋面,二層(ceng)(ceng)一(yi)般(ban)用于(yu)制作運動鞋、皮(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋的(de)墊腳(jiao)。頭層(ceng)(ceng)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)的(de)價(jia)格(ge)遠遠高于(yu)二層(ceng)(ceng)牛(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)的(de)價(jia)格(ge)。
2、羊皮
分為綿(mian)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)、山(shan)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)兩大類。一般山(shan)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)牢度優于綿(mian)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi),而柔軟(ruan)度及穿(chuan)著舒適(shi)性(xing)綿(mian)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)優于山(shan)羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)。羊(yang)(yang)皮(pi)(pi)一般不按羊(yang)(yang)的年齡區(qu)分。
3、豬
一般在鞋面當中用的較少,在童鞋中(zhong)相對較多,豬皮價格(ge)較低,一(yi)般在大人(ren)鞋當中(zhong)用于制作(zuo)里皮。豬皮一(yi)般有(you)頭層和二(er)層之分,頭層強(qiang)度較好,二(er)層強(qiang)度較差,但頭層的價格(ge)比二(er)層貴大約(yue)五(wu)倍。
4、其它動物皮
例如鱷魚皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、袋鼠(shu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、鹿(lu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、蜥(xi)蜴皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、蛇皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、珍珠(zhu)魚皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、鴕(tuo)鳥身皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、鴕(tuo)鳥腳皮(pi)(pi)(pi)、青蛙皮(pi)(pi)(pi),以(yi)上動物皮(pi)(pi)(pi)由于皮(pi)(pi)(pi)源稀少,所以(yi)制作(zuo)的鞋往往價(jia)格較高(gao),但不代表這些皮(pi)(pi)(pi)料在穿著的牢度方面很(hen)好。
二、靴子什么樣的穿著舒服
靴子穿著舒(shu)服主(zhu)要從這六個方面考慮:
1、面料
鑒別皮(pi)鞋時,應首先(xian)檢查鞋面材料,確定面革(ge)(ge)類別。如(ru)使用“真皮(pi)”粒面層未(wei)經修飾(shi),具有原天然特征的(de)面革(ge)(ge):牛皮(pi)毛孔(kong)花眼(yan)(yan)(yan)碎(sui)小,不(bu)規(gui)則而較均勻;山羊皮(pi)毛孔(kong)眼(yan)(yan)(yan)一排(pai)排(pai)呈“瓦狀(zhuang)”;豬皮(pi)三孔(kong)一堆,呈品(pin)字(zi)分布。黃牛皮(pi)組(zu)織纖(xian)維細致,水牛皮(pi)粗糙,毛孔(kong)眼(yan)(yan)(yan)粗大。
對(dui)于粒面層經修飾失(shi)去(qu)原有特征的,應根據(ju)加工(gong)工(gong)藝,仔細分類鑒別。
用(yong)苯(ben)胺涂飾的稱苯(ben)胺革,特征是(shi)(shi)表(biao)(biao)層(ceng)有晶瑩(ying)亮(liang)(liang)光,光很亮(liang)(liang),不(bu)刺眼,無塑料感(gan)。天然皮(pi)革熟制成革,牛皮(pi)一般在(zai)5~6mm厚(hou),制鞋要用(yong)片(pian)皮(pi)機分成兩層(ceng),表(biao)(biao)層(ceng)是(shi)(shi)粒面層(ceng),組織纖(xian)維細致緊(jin)密,光滑美觀,強度、耐磨性都好,里層(ceng)是(shi)(shi)絨面層(ceng),纖(xian)維粗(cu)、間隙大,表(biao)(biao)面有絨毛。頭層(ceng)革比二層(ceng)革表(biao)(biao)面光滑平展。
二層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)略顯粗糙,二層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)經涂(tu)飾、移膜(mo)(mo)或(huo)貼(tie)膜(mo)(mo)可(ke)(ke)使表面(mian)(mian)(mian)看(kan)不(bu)出粗糙,但(dan)移膜(mo)(mo)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)耐(nai)低溫(wen)性差,溫(wen)度(du)低時(shi)易發生褶皺(zhou)。牛皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)平展,壓花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)無(wu)明顯缺陷,而(er)豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)往往隱(yin)約可(ke)(ke)見三個一(yi)堆的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)毛孔(kong)眼(yan),該(gai)處(chu)光(guang)澤發暗。區分修面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)和(he)正(zheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)時(shi)要注意,修面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)破(po)壞(huai)了(le)原有(you)(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)粒(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng),然(ran)后(hou)(hou)壓的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)種(zhong)類可(ke)(ke)仿牛、羊、豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)等,但(dan)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)無(wu)毛孔(kong)眼(yan),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)是(shi)(shi)浮在(zai)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)表層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)上,而(er)正(zheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)毛孔(kong)眼(yan)是(shi)(shi)存在(zai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),仔細觀察可(ke)(ke)以(yi)辨(bian)認出來。人(ren)造(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)在(zai)布(bu)底基(ji)上涂(tu)飾了(le)一(yi)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)有(you)(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)材(cai)料,分薄(bo)(仿羊革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge))、厚(上涂(tu)發泡有(you)(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)材(cai)料,再(zai)壓上花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen))兩(liang)型,多用(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)女鞋(xie)、童(tong)鞋(xie)。合(he)成(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)有(you)(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)纖(xian)維壓制(zhi)(zhi)后(hou)(hou),加上涂(tu)飾層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)壓花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)制(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)鞋(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge),多用(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)涼(liang)鞋(xie)。再(zai)生革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)渣、皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)維磨碎,經高(gao)壓用(yong)(yong)(yong)粘(zhan)合(he)劑粘(zhan)合(he),形成(cheng)片(pian)狀(zhuang),然(ran)后(hou)(hou)經片(pian)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)機(ji)(ji)片(pian)到需要厚度(du),再(zai)進行涂(tu)飾,使它具有(you)(you)(you)(you)一(yi)定(ding)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)特性,大量用(yong)(yong)(yong)于(yu)箱包皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)件,少量用(yong)(yong)(yong)來制(zhi)(zhi)鞋(xie)。區別真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)和(he)人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料時(shi)先看(kan)外觀,真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)無(wu)底基(ji),人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料有(you)(you)(you)(you)底基(ji)。再(zai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)摸(mo),人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料塑料感非(fei)常強,光(guang)澤亮,冬(dong)天(tian)手(shou)摸(mo)有(you)(you)(you)(you)冷(leng)涼(liang)感,真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)光(guang)滑(hua)手(shou)摸(mo)無(wu)冷(leng)涼(liang)感。用(yong)(yong)(yong)拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)壓成(cheng)品前面(mian)(mian)(mian)較軟部分,在(zai)拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)周圍真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)會出現許多碎小、均勻花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen),拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)抬開,花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)消(xiao)失(shi),而(er)人(ren)造(zao)?材(cai)料可(ke)(ke)能沒有(you)(you)(you)(you)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen),也可(ke)(ke)能會出現粗大紋(wen)(wen)路,拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)抬開,花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)并不(bu)消(xiao)失(shi),說明材(cai)料表面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)粒(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)和(he)下面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)網(wang)狀(zhuang)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)已(yi)經脫開了(le),用(yong)(yong)(yong)這種(zhong)面(mian)(mian)(mian)料制(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋(xie)不(bu)合(he)格。?鑒別真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)還是(shi)(shi)人(ren)造(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)還可(ke)(ke)以(yi)觀察鞋(xie)幫處(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)截面(mian)(mian)(mian),真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)截面(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)規則纖(xian)維組成(cheng),用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)指(zhi)(zhi)甲(jia)刮下?碎皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)維后(hou)(hou),截面(mian)(mian)(mian)無(wu)明顯變化,對(dui)于(yu)真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),不(bu)同部位紋(wen)(wen)理不(bu)規則,鼻嗅(xiu)聞有(you)(you)(you)(you)腥臭(chou)味,而(er)人(ren)造(zao)?革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)嗅(xiu)聞有(you)(you)(you)(you)塑料或(huo)橡膠(jiao)味,各(ge)部位紋(wen)(wen)理規則一(yi)致。?貼(tie)膜(mo)(mo)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)在(zai)天(tian)然(ran)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)下層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)疏松肉面(mian)(mian)(mian)纖(xian)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)上貼(tie)上人(ren)造(zao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)表面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng),不(bu)能稱(cheng)“真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)”,而(er)是(shi)(shi)以(yi)?天(tian)然(ran)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)里(li)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)作底基(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)合(he)成(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)。
2、鞋里、鉤心和鞋縫
皮鞋(xie)的(de)(de)鞋(xie)里是為了防止延伸變形、改善腳面觸(chu)感(gan)(gan)而使用的(de)(de)補強性材(cai)料,要求(qiu)鞋(xie)里材(cai)料有(you)細膩(ni)的(de)(de)觸(chu)感(gan)(gan)、優(you)良的(de)(de)透(tou)氣、吸(xi)濕、排濕性、不掉(diao)顏色。
中(zhong)高檔皮(pi)鞋(xie)鞋(xie)里(li)(li)均(jun)采用天然皮(pi)革和(he)棉布制作,鞋(xie)里(li)(li)是人造代用革的是低檔產(chan)品。鞋(xie)里(li)(li)下面是塘(tang)(tang)(tang)底(di)(di)(di),檢查時(shi)將(jiang)鞋(xie)折成90°角,不(bu)能(neng)開裂(lie),有(you)些偽劣(lie)鞋(xie)用不(bu)合格再生革塘(tang)(tang)(tang)底(di)(di)(di)和(he)紙(zhi)板(ban)無紡(fang)布塘(tang)(tang)(tang)底(di)(di)(di),由(you)于(yu)材料中(zhong)乳膠(jiao)含量低,吸汗后(hou)就軟了(le),鞋(xie)底(di)(di)(di)的勾(gou)心—在(zai)內(nei)底(di)(di)(di)和(he)外底(di)(di)(di)間起橋梁(liang)作用的一條鋼板(ban),就可能(neng)穿出塘(tang)(tang)(tang)底(di)(di)(di)、扎傷腳掌。鉤心的長度(du)、寬度(du)、彈(dan)性(xing)模等,受外力后(hou)變形(xing)情況,國家標準均(jun)有(you)規定(ding)(ding),還要(yao)有(you)一定(ding)(ding)彈(dan)性(xing)和(he)鋼性(xing)。
材料要用65錳鋼、彈性極(ji)限載荷(he)不小(xiao)于290N。檢查(cha)鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)(bang)縫合(he)線(xian)和鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)(bang)、鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)粘(zhan)(zhan)合(he)縫時,看(kan)是否有斷線(xian),縫合(he)是否規范(fan)整齊。對膠(jiao)(jiao)粘(zhan)(zhan)皮鞋(xie)(xie),其幫(bang)(bang)底(di)(di)結(jie)合(he)部位應粘(zhan)(zhan)合(he)平整無溝坎,無虛縫及開膠(jiao)(jiao)現(xian)象(xiang)。膠(jiao)(jiao)粘(zhan)(zhan)皮鞋(xie)(xie)剝離強度男鞋(xie)(xie)54N/cm,女(nv)鞋(xie)(xie)40~49N/cm,在試驗機上試樣出(chu)現(xian)初開膠(jiao)(jiao)現(xian)象(xiang)(即(ji)外(wai)(wai)幫(bang)(bang)、外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)粘(zhan)(zhan)合(he)縫出(chu)現(xian)變(bian)形、變(bian)色(se)現(xian)象(xiang))即(ji)為(wei)不合(he)格。消費(fei)者可(ke)以外(wai)(wai)掰(bai)或(huo)向里按壓鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)(bang),如鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)(bang)與(yu)外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)粘(zhan)(zhan)合(he)處出(chu)現(xian)變(bian)色(se)或(huo)開膠(jiao)(jiao)現(xian)象(xiang),表(biao)明粘(zhan)(zhan)接不良。
3、鞋底
皮鞋(xie)外底(di)按(an)原料分(fen)為橡膠、仿革、塑(su)料、橡塑(su)鞋(xie)底(di)。
橡(xiang)膠鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)柔軟(ruan)、彈性(xing)(xing)好,防滑(hua)(hua)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)熱(re)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)寒、分(fen)(fen)量(liang)稍重(zhong)。仿革底(di)(di)(di)(di)輕便、硬挺(ting)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)曲撓,但彈性(xing)(xing)差(cha)、不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)防滑(hua)(hua)。塑(su)料底(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo),外(wai)(wai)觀平整光滑(hua)(hua),色彩(cai)鮮艷(yan)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)防滑(hua)(hua),耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)寒性(xing)(xing)差(cha),較重(zhong)。橡(xiang)塑(su)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)兼具橡(xiang)膠、塑(su)料兩種材(cai)料優點,耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)、彈性(xing)(xing)好、柔軟(ruan),是目前(qian)中(zhong)高檔鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)首選的底(di)(di)(di)(di)料。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)的外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)前(qian)腳掌著力(li)部(bu)(bu)分(fen)(fen)厚(hou)度(du)(du)(du)標準(zhun),要(yao)求應達(da)到外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)總厚(hou)度(du)(du)(du)的2/3,檢(jian)驗(yan)時(shi)要(yao)同時(shi)計算外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)著力(li)部(bu)(bu)分(fen)(fen)內外(wai)(wai)兩種花(hua)紋深度(du)(du)(du)相加起來(lai),不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)得超過外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)總厚(hou)度(du)(du)(du)的1/3,如果(guo)達(da)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)到這一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)條標準(zhun),可以(yi)判定(ding)(ding)偽劣鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。除厚(hou)度(du)(du)(du)外(wai)(wai),鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)還應有耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)性(xing)(xing)能(neng)(neng)。由于(yu)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)般(ban)是由高分(fen)(fen)子材(cai)料制成,檢(jian)驗(yan)時(shi)根(gen)據(ju)國家(jia)標準(zhun)在專(zhuan)用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機(ji)上進(jin)行耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)折性(xing)(xing)能(neng)(neng)測(ce)試(shi)(shi),鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)受(shou)(shou)到一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)頻(pin)率、一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)角度(du)(du)(du)、一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)次數屈折后,按不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)同品種,鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)裂(lie)開(kai)長度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)大(da)于(yu)40、15、12mm。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)性(xing)(xing)檢(jian)驗(yan)根(gen)據(ju)國家(jia)標準(zhun),在專(zhuan)用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)儀上進(jin)行,使被檢(jian)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)與一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)個標準(zhun)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)輪接觸,并受(shou)(shou)到一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)壓(ya)力(li),磨(mo)(mo)(mo)輪以(yi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)速度(du)(du)(du)旋轉,經一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)損時(shi)間,按不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)同品種,磨(mo)(mo)(mo)痕長度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)大(da)于(yu)16、12、10mm為合(he)格(ge)。對旅游鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)的外(wai)(wai)中(zhong)底(di)(di)(di)(di)和外(wai)(wai)底(di)(di)(di)(di)之(zhi)間要(yao)求一(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)粘合(he)強度(du)(du)(du),測(ce)試(shi)(shi)時(shi)在萬(wan)能(neng)(neng)材(cai)料試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機(ji)或拉力(li)?試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機(ji)上進(jin)行,粘合(he)強度(du)(du)(du)不(bu)(bu)(bu)(bu)小(xiao)于(yu)20N/cm為合(he)格(ge)。
4、后跟
將鞋(xie)(xie)固定后(hou)(hou)將跟(gen)(gen)夾(jia)住,用拉(la)力(li)機拉(la),看能經受多大(da)拉(la)力(li)。鞋(xie)(xie)的后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)標準規定,在直觀(guan)檢驗時(shi),先用手掰后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen),觀(guan)察(cha)子口(kou)(外幫和后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)連(lian)接的那個口(kou))變(bian)形(xing)。如果(guo)變(bian)形(xing)大(da),后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)可能有問題,再揭(jie)下鞋(xie)(xie)墊,看后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)安(an)裝(zhuang)。4cm以上高跟(gen)(gen),必須有一(yi)根木(mu)螺絲固定,鞋(xie)(xie)跟(gen)(gen)的整個牢(lao)度就(jiu)是(shi)靠里面(mian)的木(mu)螺絲和幾個木(mu)釘來(lai)保(bao)證。木(mu)跟(gen)(gen)材質要好,木(mu)螺絲穿(chuan)進不能劈(pi)裂,否則輕掰后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)就(jiu)能觀(guan)察(cha)到子口(kou)變(bian)形(xing)或(huo)后(hou)(hou)跟(gen)(gen)松(song)動(dong)。
5、外形
將鞋隨(sui)意平(ping)放于柜面或(huo)玻璃(li)板上(shang),查看鞋是(shi)否平(ping)穩。
當鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)置放于桌(zhuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)上時(shi),應(ying)(ying)立即停(ting)止左右晃動,從鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)尖(jian)朝后(hou)(hou)看(kan),鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)底內(nei)外邊沿(yan)距離桌(zhuo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)翹起的(de)尺寸,應(ying)(ying)該是(shi)差別不大,以保持平衡一致為(wei)(wei)(wei)好(hao)(hao)(hao)。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)的(de)后(hou)(hou)跟上下(xia)要豎(shu)直,以不向(xiang)外側或內(nei)側傾斜為(wei)(wei)(wei)好(hao)(hao)(hao)。第(di)三,從上朝下(xia)俯視鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian),看(kan)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)部件的(de)對(dui)稱(cheng)性以及鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)的(de)輪(lun)廓是(shi)否變形(xing),以鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)尖(jian)和后(hou)(hou)跟中點之(zhi)間的(de)直線為(wei)(wei)(wei)對(dui)稱(cheng)軸線為(wei)(wei)(wei)好(hao)(hao)(hao),看(kan)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)上各部件是(shi)否對(dui)稱(cheng),以內(nei)外相互(hu)對(dui)稱(cheng)不向(xiang)前向(xiang)后(hou)(hou)挪(nuo)位為(wei)(wei)(wei)好(hao)(hao)(hao)。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)輪(lun)廓線應(ying)(ying)略朝鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)內(nei)抱攏,平滑圓順者為(wei)(wei)(wei)好(hao)(hao)(hao),扭(niu)曲(qu)成(cheng)荷葉形(xing)的(de)為(wei)(wei)(wei)劣質鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)。
鞋(xie)的(de)外(wai)觀檢查(cha),還(huan)應注意幫(bang)面(mian)(mian)不(bu)允許有明(ming)(ming)(ming)顯(xian)傷殘、松面(mian)(mian)、涂飾層脫(tuo)落、開裂和變(bian)色等現象。鞋(xie)的(de)整體結構要端正、平伏、鞋(xie)內不(bu)露釘尖(jian),兩(liang)只鞋(xie)的(de)相同部分應左右對稱,鞋(xie)底硬度(du)、顏(yan)色、結構均(jun)應一致(zhi),前幫(bang)長(chang)度(du)、后幫(bang)高度(du)都不(bu)應有明(ming)(ming)(ming)顯(xian)差異。兩(liang)只鞋(xie)幫(bang)、底均(jun)應結合(he)緊(jin)密,幫(bang)面(mian)(mian)上不(bu)能有明(ming)(ming)(ming)顯(xian)皺褶。
6、手試
用手觸摸鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)的內(nei)腔,看鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)里是否(fou)(fou)有凹凸不平現(xian)象。凡是能(neng)接觸腳(jiao)(jiao)的地方不能(neng)凹凸不平,不然(ran)腳(jiao)(jiao)會起泡,且(qie)一般(ban)情況(kuang)下(xia)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)內(nei)必須(xu)有鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)墊。鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)墊可以保持鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)內(nei)清(qing)潔,且(qie)覆蓋內(nei)底(di)上極個別不平釘眼。一般(ban)情況(kuang)下(xia),男鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)為(wei)半截(jie)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)墊,女鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)應是整體鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)墊。再用手掐(qia)鞋(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)幫后跟部位,看是否(fou)(fou)硬(ying)挺而有彈性,不能(neng)過硬(ying),否(fou)(fou)則傷及腳(jiao)(jiao)踝。
鞋的(de)內底是鞋的(de)軀(qu)干與骨(gu)架,用(yong)力按壓腰(yao)當內底,以(yi)紋(wen)絲不動為好(hao)。用(yong)食指的(de)指尖(jian)朝下接觸鞋的(de)內底,讓食指靠近外踝部的(de)鞋幫,看食指的(de)第二指關節線是否(fou)與外踝幫高度一(yi)致(zhi)。
一般生活用鞋,社交禮儀鞋、時(shi)裝鞋以(yi)略(lve)高(gao)于食指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)第(di)二指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節線為(wei)好(hao),低腰(yao)運動鞋和休閑鞋的后(hou)幫上均為(wei)軟口的結構,其外踝幫高(gao)可以(yi)略(lve)高(gao)于食指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)第(di)二指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節線。用中指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)尖插入(ru)前(qian)(qian)(qian)尖鞋底下(xia)面,查看前(qian)(qian)(qian)蹺(qiao)高(gao)度(du)是否合(he)適。當鞋尖的翹頭正(zheng)好(hao)夠中指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的指(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)肚厚度(du)時(shi),表(biao)明鞋尖的前(qian)(qian)(qian)蹺(qiao)正(zheng)合(he)格。鞋尖的前(qian)(qian)(qian)蹺(qiao)過大時(shi),平穩度(du)降(jiang)低。