一、買什么材質的靴子好
每種材質(zhi)都有自己的(de)優(you)點(dian)和缺點(dian),接下來將簡單介(jie)紹:
1、牛皮
分(fen)(fen)為(wei)黃(huang)牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)、水牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)等,一(yi)般黃(huang)牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)的(de)(de)強度優于水牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)。根據牛(niu)(niu)的(de)(de)年齡牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)又可分(fen)(fen)為(wei)胎牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)、小牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)、中牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)、大牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi),一(yi)般牛(niu)(niu)的(de)(de)年齡越(yue)小的(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)價(jia)格(ge)越(yue)貴(gui),檔次越(yue)高(gao),但并不代表價(jia)格(ge)越(yue)高(gao)皮(pi)(pi)強度越(yue)好。牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)一(yi)般又可分(fen)(fen)為(wei)頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)和二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng),頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)一(yi)般用于制(zhi)作皮(pi)(pi)鞋(xie)(xie)鞋(xie)(xie)面,二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)一(yi)般用于制(zhi)作運動鞋(xie)(xie)、皮(pi)(pi)鞋(xie)(xie)的(de)(de)墊(dian)腳(jiao)。頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)的(de)(de)價(jia)格(ge)遠遠高(gao)于二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)牛(niu)(niu)皮(pi)(pi)的(de)(de)價(jia)格(ge)。
2、羊皮
分為綿羊(yang)皮(pi)、山(shan)羊(yang)皮(pi)兩大類(lei)。一般山(shan)羊(yang)皮(pi)牢度優(you)于綿羊(yang)皮(pi),而柔軟度及穿著舒適性綿羊(yang)皮(pi)優(you)于山(shan)羊(yang)皮(pi)。羊(yang)皮(pi)一般不(bu)按羊(yang)的年齡區分。
3、豬
一般在鞋面當中用的較少,在童鞋中相對較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)多,豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)價格較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)低,一(yi)般在(zai)大人(ren)鞋(xie)當中用于制(zhi)作里皮(pi)(pi)。豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)一(yi)般有(you)頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)和二層(ceng)(ceng)之(zhi)分,頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)強度較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)好,二層(ceng)(ceng)強度較(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)差(cha),但頭(tou)層(ceng)(ceng)的價格比二層(ceng)(ceng)貴(gui)大約五倍(bei)。
4、其它動物皮
例如鱷(e)魚(yu)皮(pi)、袋鼠皮(pi)、鹿(lu)皮(pi)、蜥(xi)蜴皮(pi)、蛇皮(pi)、珍珠(zhu)魚(yu)皮(pi)、鴕(tuo)鳥(niao)身皮(pi)、鴕(tuo)鳥(niao)腳皮(pi)、青蛙皮(pi),以(yi)上動物(wu)皮(pi)由于(yu)皮(pi)源稀少,所以(yi)制(zhi)作(zuo)的鞋往往價格較高,但不代表這些皮(pi)料(liao)在穿著(zhu)的牢度(du)方面很好。
二、靴子什么樣的穿著舒服
靴子穿(chuan)著舒(shu)服主要從這(zhe)六個方(fang)面考慮(lv):
1、面料
鑒別(bie)皮(pi)(pi)鞋時,應首先檢(jian)查鞋面(mian)材(cai)料,確定面(mian)革類(lei)別(bie)。如使(shi)用(yong)“真皮(pi)(pi)”粒面(mian)層未經修(xiu)飾(shi),具有原天然(ran)特征的(de)面(mian)革:牛皮(pi)(pi)毛(mao)孔花眼(yan)碎小,不規則而較均勻;山羊皮(pi)(pi)毛(mao)孔眼(yan)一排(pai)排(pai)呈“瓦(wa)狀”;豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)三孔一堆,呈品字分布。黃牛皮(pi)(pi)組織(zhi)纖維細致,水牛皮(pi)(pi)粗糙,毛(mao)孔眼(yan)粗大。
對(dui)于粒面(mian)層經修飾(shi)失去(qu)原有特征的,應根據加(jia)工(gong)工(gong)藝(yi),仔細分(fen)類鑒別。
用苯胺涂飾(shi)的稱苯胺革,特征是表層(ceng)(ceng)有晶(jing)瑩亮光,光很亮,不刺眼(yan),無塑(su)料感(gan)。天然皮革熟制(zhi)成革,牛皮一般(ban)在5~6mm厚(hou),制(zhi)鞋要用片(pian)皮機分成兩層(ceng)(ceng),表層(ceng)(ceng)是粒面層(ceng)(ceng),組織纖(xian)維細致緊(jin)密,光滑(hua)美觀(guan),強度、耐磨性都好(hao),里層(ceng)(ceng)是絨面層(ceng)(ceng),纖(xian)維粗、間(jian)隙大,表面有絨毛(mao)。頭層(ceng)(ceng)革比(bi)二層(ceng)(ceng)革表面光滑(hua)平展。
二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)略顯粗(cu)糙,二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)經涂飾(shi)、移(yi)膜(mo)(mo)或貼膜(mo)(mo)可使(shi)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)看不(bu)出(chu)粗(cu)糙,但移(yi)膜(mo)(mo)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)耐低(di)溫性差,溫度低(di)時易發(fa)(fa)生褶皺。牛(niu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)平(ping)展,壓(ya)(ya)花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)無(wu)明(ming)顯缺陷(xian),而豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)二(er)(er)層(ceng)(ceng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)往往隱約可見三(san)個一堆(dui)的(de)(de)(de)(de)毛(mao)孔(kong)眼,該處光澤發(fa)(fa)暗。區分(fen)修面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)和正(zheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)時要注意,修面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)破壞了(le)原有(you)(you)(you)的(de)(de)(de)(de)粒(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),然(ran)(ran)后(hou)(hou)壓(ya)(ya)的(de)(de)(de)(de)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)種類(lei)可仿(fang)牛(niu)、羊、豬(zhu)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)等,但花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)無(wu)毛(mao)孔(kong)眼,花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)是(shi)(shi)浮在皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)表(biao)層(ceng)(ceng)上(shang),而正(zheng)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)毛(mao)孔(kong)眼是(shi)(shi)存在的(de)(de)(de)(de),仔細觀察(cha)可以辨認出(chu)來。人(ren)造(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)在布底基(ji)上(shang)涂飾(shi)了(le)一層(ceng)(ceng)有(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)材(cai)料(liao)(liao),分(fen)薄(仿(fang)羊革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge))、厚(上(shang)涂發(fa)(fa)泡有(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)材(cai)料(liao)(liao),再(zai)壓(ya)(ya)上(shang)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen))兩型(xing),多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)于女鞋(xie)(xie)、童鞋(xie)(xie)。合成(cheng)(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)有(you)(you)(you)機(ji)(ji)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維壓(ya)(ya)制(zhi)后(hou)(hou),加上(shang)涂飾(shi)層(ceng)(ceng)壓(ya)(ya)花(hua)(hua)后(hou)(hou)制(zhi)成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)鞋(xie)(xie)面(mian)(mian)(mian)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge),多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)于涼鞋(xie)(xie)。再(zai)生革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)將皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)渣、皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維磨碎,經高壓(ya)(ya)用(yong)(yong)(yong)粘(zhan)合劑粘(zhan)合,形成(cheng)(cheng)片狀(zhuang),然(ran)(ran)后(hou)(hou)經片皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)機(ji)(ji)片到需要厚度,再(zai)進行(xing)涂飾(shi),使(shi)它(ta)具有(you)(you)(you)一定皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)特性,大量(liang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)于箱包(bao)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)件,少量(liang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)來制(zhi)鞋(xie)(xie)。區別(bie)真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)和人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)時先看外觀,真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)無(wu)底基(ji),人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)有(you)(you)(you)底基(ji)。再(zai)用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)(shou)摸(mo),人(ren)造(zao)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)塑料(liao)(liao)感非(fei)常強(qiang),光澤亮,冬天手(shou)(shou)摸(mo)有(you)(you)(you)冷(leng)(leng)涼感,真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)光滑手(shou)(shou)摸(mo)無(wu)冷(leng)(leng)涼感。用(yong)(yong)(yong)拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)壓(ya)(ya)成(cheng)(cheng)品前面(mian)(mian)(mian)較軟部分(fen),在拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)周圍(wei)真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)會出(chu)現許多(duo)碎小、均(jun)勻花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen),拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)抬開(kai),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)消(xiao)失,而人(ren)造(zao)?材(cai)料(liao)(liao)可能(neng)沒有(you)(you)(you)花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen),也可能(neng)會出(chu)現粗(cu)大紋(wen)(wen)(wen)路(lu),拇(mu)指(zhi)(zhi)抬開(kai),花(hua)(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)并不(bu)消(xiao)失,說明(ming)材(cai)料(liao)(liao)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)粒(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng)和下面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)網狀(zhuang)層(ceng)(ceng)已經脫開(kai)了(le),用(yong)(yong)(yong)這種面(mian)(mian)(mian)料(liao)(liao)制(zhi)成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)鞋(xie)(xie)不(bu)合格(ge)。?鑒別(bie)真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)還(huan)是(shi)(shi)人(ren)造(zao)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)還(huan)可以觀察(cha)鞋(xie)(xie)幫處的(de)(de)(de)(de)截面(mian)(mian)(mian),真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)截面(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)不(bu)規則纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維組(zu)成(cheng)(cheng),用(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)(shou)指(zhi)(zhi)甲刮下?碎皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維后(hou)(hou),截面(mian)(mian)(mian)無(wu)明(ming)顯變化,對于真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi),不(bu)同部位紋(wen)(wen)(wen)理不(bu)規則,鼻嗅(xiu)聞(wen)(wen)有(you)(you)(you)腥臭味,而人(ren)造(zao)?革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)嗅(xiu)聞(wen)(wen)有(you)(you)(you)塑料(liao)(liao)或橡膠味,各(ge)部位紋(wen)(wen)(wen)理規則一致(zhi)。?貼膜(mo)(mo)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)是(shi)(shi)在天然(ran)(ran)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)下層(ceng)(ceng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)疏松(song)肉(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)層(ceng)(ceng)上(shang)貼上(shang)人(ren)造(zao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)層(ceng)(ceng),不(bu)能(neng)稱“真(zhen)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)”,而是(shi)(shi)以?天然(ran)(ran)皮(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)(pi)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)里層(ceng)(ceng)作底基(ji)的(de)(de)(de)(de)合成(cheng)(cheng)革(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)(ge)。
2、鞋里、鉤心和鞋縫
皮鞋(xie)的鞋(xie)里是為了防(fang)止延伸變形、改善腳面觸感(gan)而(er)使用的補強性材料,要(yao)求鞋(xie)里材料有細膩的觸感(gan)、優良的透氣、吸(xi)濕、排濕性、不掉顏色。
中高檔皮鞋鞋里均(jun)采(cai)用天然皮革(ge)和棉布制作(zuo),鞋里是(shi)人造代用革(ge)的(de)是(shi)低檔產品。鞋里下面(mian)是(shi)塘(tang)底(di),檢查時將鞋折成90°角(jiao),不(bu)能開裂,有(you)些偽(wei)劣鞋用不(bu)合(he)格再生革(ge)塘(tang)底(di)和紙板無紡布塘(tang)底(di),由(you)于(yu)材料中乳膠含(han)量低,吸汗后(hou)就(jiu)(jiu)軟了,鞋底(di)的(de)勾心(xin)—在內底(di)和外(wai)底(di)間(jian)起橋梁作(zuo)用的(de)一(yi)條鋼板,就(jiu)(jiu)可能穿出塘(tang)底(di)、扎傷腳掌(zhang)。鉤心(xin)的(de)長度、寬度、彈性(xing)模等,受外(wai)力后(hou)變形情(qing)況,國家標準(zhun)均(jun)有(you)規定,還要(yao)有(you)一(yi)定彈性(xing)和鋼性(xing)。
材料要用65錳鋼、彈性極限(xian)載(zai)荷(he)不小于290N。檢查鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)縫(feng)合線(xian)和鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)、鞋(xie)(xie)底粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合縫(feng)時,看(kan)是(shi)(shi)否(fou)有斷線(xian),縫(feng)合是(shi)(shi)否(fou)規范整齊(qi)。對膠粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)皮鞋(xie)(xie),其幫(bang)底結(jie)合部(bu)位應粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合平(ping)整無(wu)溝坎,無(wu)虛(xu)縫(feng)及(ji)開(kai)膠現象(xiang)。膠粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)皮鞋(xie)(xie)剝離強度男(nan)鞋(xie)(xie)54N/cm,女(nv)鞋(xie)(xie)40~49N/cm,在試(shi)驗機(ji)上試(shi)樣出現初開(kai)膠現象(xiang)(即(ji)(ji)外幫(bang)、外底粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合縫(feng)出現變形、變色現象(xiang))即(ji)(ji)為不合格。消費(fei)者可以(yi)外掰或(huo)(huo)向里按壓鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang),如鞋(xie)(xie)幫(bang)與外底粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合處出現變色或(huo)(huo)開(kai)膠現象(xiang),表明粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)接不良。
3、鞋底
皮鞋外底按原料分(fen)為橡(xiang)膠(jiao)、仿(fang)革、塑料、橡(xiang)塑鞋底。
橡膠(jiao)(jiao)鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)柔(rou)軟、彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)好,防(fang)滑(hua)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)熱、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)寒、分量稍(shao)重(zhong)。仿(fang)革底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)輕便(bian)、硬挺、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)曲撓(nao),但(dan)彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)差(cha)、不(bu)(bu)防(fang)滑(hua)。塑料(liao)(liao)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo),外觀平整光滑(hua),色彩鮮艷不(bu)(bu)防(fang)滑(hua),耐(nai)(nai)(nai)寒性(xing)差(cha),較重(zhong)。橡塑鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)兼具橡膠(jiao)(jiao)、塑料(liao)(liao)兩(liang)種材(cai)料(liao)(liao)優點(dian),耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)、彈(dan)(dan)性(xing)好、柔(rou)軟,是(shi)目前中高檔鞋(xie)(xie)首選(xuan)的底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)料(liao)(liao)。鞋(xie)(xie)的外底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)前腳掌著力部(bu)分厚度(du)標準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun),要求應達到外底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)總厚度(du)的2/3,檢(jian)(jian)驗(yan)時(shi)(shi)要同(tong)時(shi)(shi)計(ji)算外底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)著力部(bu)分內外兩(liang)種花紋深度(du)相加(jia)起來,不(bu)(bu)得超過外底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)總厚度(du)的1/3,如(ru)果達不(bu)(bu)到這一(yi)(yi)條標準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun),可以判定(ding)(ding)偽(wei)劣鞋(xie)(xie)。除厚度(du)外,鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)還應有耐(nai)(nai)(nai)折、耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)性(xing)能。由于(yu)鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)般(ban)是(shi)由高分子材(cai)料(liao)(liao)制成,檢(jian)(jian)驗(yan)時(shi)(shi)根據(ju)國家標準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)在專用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)折試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機上(shang)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)折性(xing)能測試(shi)(shi),鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)受到一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)頻(pin)率、一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)角度(du)、一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)次(ci)數屈折后,按(an)不(bu)(bu)同(tong)品(pin)種,鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)裂開長度(du)不(bu)(bu)大于(yu)40、15、12mm。鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)性(xing)檢(jian)(jian)驗(yan)根據(ju)國家標準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun),在專用耐(nai)(nai)(nai)磨(mo)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)儀上(shang)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing),使被檢(jian)(jian)鞋(xie)(xie)底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)與一(yi)(yi)個(ge)標準(zhun)(zhun)(zhun)磨(mo)輪(lun)接觸(chu),并受到一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)壓力,磨(mo)輪(lun)以一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)速度(du)旋轉,經一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)磨(mo)損(sun)時(shi)(shi)間,按(an)不(bu)(bu)同(tong)品(pin)種,磨(mo)痕長度(du)不(bu)(bu)大于(yu)16、12、10mm為合格。對旅游鞋(xie)(xie)的外中底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)和外底(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)(di)之間要求一(yi)(yi)定(ding)(ding)粘合強度(du),測試(shi)(shi)時(shi)(shi)在萬能材(cai)料(liao)(liao)試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機或(huo)拉力?試(shi)(shi)驗(yan)機上(shang)進(jin)行(xing)(xing)(xing),粘合強度(du)不(bu)(bu)小于(yu)20N/cm為合格。
4、后跟
將鞋(xie)(xie)固(gu)定(ding)后(hou)將跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)夾住,用拉力機(ji)拉,看能(neng)經(jing)受多大(da)(da)拉力。鞋(xie)(xie)的(de)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)標準規定(ding),在直觀(guan)(guan)檢(jian)驗時,先(xian)用手(shou)掰后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen),觀(guan)(guan)察子口(外幫和(he)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)連接的(de)那個口)變形。如果變形大(da)(da),后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)可(ke)能(neng)有問(wen)題,再揭下(xia)鞋(xie)(xie)墊,看后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)安裝。4cm以上高(gao)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen),必須有一根木螺絲(si)固(gu)定(ding),鞋(xie)(xie)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)的(de)整(zheng)個牢(lao)度就(jiu)是靠里面(mian)的(de)木螺絲(si)和(he)幾個木釘來保(bao)證(zheng)。木跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)材質要好,木螺絲(si)穿(chuan)進不能(neng)劈裂,否則輕掰后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)就(jiu)能(neng)觀(guan)(guan)察到子口變形或(huo)后(hou)跟(gen)(gen)(gen)(gen)松動。
5、外形
將鞋(xie)隨意平放于柜(ju)面或玻璃板上,查看(kan)鞋(xie)是否平穩。
當(dang)鞋(xie)(xie)置(zhi)放于桌面(mian)上(shang)(shang)時,應立即停(ting)止左右晃動,從鞋(xie)(xie)尖朝(chao)后看,鞋(xie)(xie)底內(nei)外邊沿(yan)距離(li)桌面(mian)翹(qiao)起的(de)(de)尺寸,應該(gai)是差別不大,以(yi)保持(chi)平衡(heng)一致為(wei)好。鞋(xie)(xie)的(de)(de)后跟(gen)上(shang)(shang)下要(yao)豎直,以(yi)不向外側(ce)或內(nei)側(ce)傾斜為(wei)好。第(di)三,從上(shang)(shang)朝(chao)下俯視(shi)鞋(xie)(xie)面(mian),看鞋(xie)(xie)面(mian)部件的(de)(de)對(dui)稱性以(yi)及鞋(xie)(xie)的(de)(de)輪廓(kuo)是否變(bian)形,以(yi)鞋(xie)(xie)尖和后跟(gen)中點之(zhi)間的(de)(de)直線(xian)為(wei)對(dui)稱軸線(xian)為(wei)好,看鞋(xie)(xie)面(mian)上(shang)(shang)各部件是否對(dui)稱,以(yi)內(nei)外相(xiang)互(hu)對(dui)稱不向前向后挪位為(wei)好。鞋(xie)(xie)輪廓(kuo)線(xian)應略(lve)朝(chao)鞋(xie)(xie)內(nei)抱攏,平滑圓順者為(wei)好,扭曲(qu)成荷葉(xie)形的(de)(de)為(wei)劣質鞋(xie)(xie)。
鞋(xie)的外觀檢查(cha),還應注意幫(bang)(bang)面(mian)(mian)不允(yun)許有明(ming)(ming)顯傷殘、松面(mian)(mian)、涂飾層脫落、開裂和變色等(deng)現象(xiang)。鞋(xie)的整(zheng)體結(jie)構(gou)要端正、平(ping)伏、鞋(xie)內不露釘尖,兩只(zhi)鞋(xie)的相(xiang)同部(bu)分應左右(you)對(dui)稱,鞋(xie)底硬度(du)(du)、顏色、結(jie)構(gou)均應一致,前幫(bang)(bang)長(chang)度(du)(du)、后幫(bang)(bang)高(gao)度(du)(du)都不應有明(ming)(ming)顯差異。兩只(zhi)鞋(xie)幫(bang)(bang)、底均應結(jie)合緊密(mi),幫(bang)(bang)面(mian)(mian)上不能有明(ming)(ming)顯皺褶(zhe)。
6、手試
用手觸(chu)摸鞋(xie)的內(nei)腔,看鞋(xie)里是否有(you)凹凸不(bu)(bu)平(ping)現象。凡是能(neng)接(jie)觸(chu)腳的地方(fang)不(bu)(bu)能(neng)凹凸不(bu)(bu)平(ping),不(bu)(bu)然腳會起(qi)泡,且(qie)一般情況(kuang)下鞋(xie)內(nei)必須(xu)有(you)鞋(xie)墊。鞋(xie)墊可以保持鞋(xie)內(nei)清潔,且(qie)覆蓋(gai)內(nei)底上極個別(bie)不(bu)(bu)平(ping)釘(ding)眼。一般情況(kuang)下,男鞋(xie)為半(ban)截鞋(xie)墊,女鞋(xie)應(ying)是整體鞋(xie)墊。再(zai)用手掐鞋(xie)幫(bang)后跟部位,看是否硬(ying)挺而有(you)彈性(xing),不(bu)(bu)能(neng)過(guo)硬(ying),否則傷及腳踝。
鞋(xie)的(de)內底是鞋(xie)的(de)軀干與骨架,用力(li)按壓腰當內底,以紋絲不(bu)動為好(hao)。用食(shi)(shi)指的(de)指尖朝下接觸鞋(xie)的(de)內底,讓(rang)食(shi)(shi)指靠近外踝部的(de)鞋(xie)幫(bang),看食(shi)(shi)指的(de)第二指關節線是否與外踝幫(bang)高度一致。
一般生活用鞋,社交禮儀鞋、時(shi)裝鞋以(yi)略高(gao)(gao)于(yu)食指(zhi)(zhi)第(di)二(er)指(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節(jie)線為好,低(di)腰運動鞋和(he)休閑鞋的(de)(de)后幫上均為軟口的(de)(de)結(jie)構,其(qi)外踝(huai)幫高(gao)(gao)可以(yi)略高(gao)(gao)于(yu)食指(zhi)(zhi)第(di)二(er)指(zhi)(zhi)關(guan)節(jie)線。用中(zhong)指(zhi)(zhi)指(zhi)(zhi)尖(jian)插入前尖(jian)鞋底(di)下面,查看前蹺高(gao)(gao)度是否合(he)適(shi)。當(dang)鞋尖(jian)的(de)(de)翹頭正好夠(gou)中(zhong)指(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)指(zhi)(zhi)肚(du)厚(hou)度時(shi),表明鞋尖(jian)的(de)(de)前蹺正合(he)格。鞋尖(jian)的(de)(de)前蹺過大時(shi),平穩(wen)度降低(di)。