天鵝絨是什么面料
天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong),即漳絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。因起源于中國福(fu)建省漳州地區而得名。明代已有大量生產,是中國傳(chuan)統織物之(zhi)一。天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)素來是傳(chuan)統的(de)秋裝流(liu)行面(mian)料,它奢(she)華的(de)氣質和(he)豐富的(de)紋(wen)理營造(zao)出魔法(fa)般的(de)時(shi)尚氛圍。天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)面(mian)料均采用(yong)高配以上的(de)優質棉紗(sha)制成(cheng),主要有素色(se)、印花(hua)、提花(hua)和(he)抽條(tiao)、色(se)織以及爛花(hua)幾個系列。素天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)表面(mian)全部絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈,花(hua)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)則是將(jiang)部分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈按花(hua)紋(wen)割(ge)斷成(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛與絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈相間,構(gou)成(cheng)花(hua)紋(wen)。天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)的(de)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛或絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈緊密聳(song)立(li),色(se)光(guang)文雅,堅牢耐磨(mo),可用(yong)于制做服裝、帽子(zi)和(he)裝飾物。
天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong),在明清(qing)兩(liang)代最為興盛,有花(hua)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)和素天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)二種。花(hua)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)是指將部分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按花(hua)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)割(ge)斷成絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)毛(mao),使(shi)之(zhi)與未斷的(de)線(xian)圈(quan)聯同構(gou)(gou)成紋(wen)(wen)(wen)樣;而素天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)則其表面全為絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。一(yi)般天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)用蠶絲作原料(liao)或作經線(xian),以棉紗作緯線(xian),再以桑蠶絲(或人(ren)造絲)起絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)造時,每織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)四根(gen)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)線(xian)便織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)入一(yi)根(gen)起絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)桿(即細(xi)鐵絲),織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)到一(yi)定長度(du)時即在機上用割(ge)刀沿(yan)鐵絲剖割(ge),即成毛(mao)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。毛(mao)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)如何起是依紋(wen)(wen)(wen)樣設計(ji)。構(gou)(gou)成織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物的(de)紋(wen)(wen)(wen)樣有兩(liang)種形式:一(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)花(hua)緞(duan)(duan)地、即漳緞(duan)(duan);一(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)地緞(duan)(duan)花(hua),即天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。其特點是少有織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)地,有單、雙色,或嵌金銀(yin)線(xian)
天鵝絨面料的優缺點
一、優點
1、天鵝絨(rong)絨(rong)毛(mao)豐滿,質地細膩,手感柔軟,穿著舒適,美觀大方。有彈(dan)性,不掉毛(mao),不起(qi)球,吸水性能(neng)好,是(shi)全(quan)棉(mian)產品的三倍,而(er)且對皮(pi)膚無任何刺激。
2、天鵝絨(rong)(rong)的(de)絨(rong)(rong)毛或(huo)絨(rong)(rong)圈緊密聳立,色光(guang)文雅,織物堅牢耐磨(mo),不(bu)易(yi)褪色,回力彈性好。
3、天鵝絨產品(pin)要(yao)求品(pin)級要(yao)高、線(xian)密度(du)要(yao)小、長(chang)度(du)長(chang)、成熟度(du)好的細長(chang)絨優(you)質棉。
4、天鵝(e)絨細膩的觸感、流(liu)通的垂墜(zhui)感和(he)高雅(ya)的光(guang)澤(ze)依然(ran)是其他布(bu)料無(wu)法比擬的,因(yin)而一直(zhi)是時裝(zhuang)描繪師們華貴布(bu)中的摯愛挑選(xuan)。
二、缺點
1、不(bu)經意地堆疊天(tian)鵝絨(rong)服裝(zhuang),很容易損壞(huai)絨(rong)毛的(de)天(tian)然走向,很難康復,容易有(you)靜電。
2、因為天鵝(e)絨(rong)本身的特(te)(te)性,表面為密密麻麻的小(xiao)絨(rong)毛組成(cheng),在(zai)(zai)面料生產及(ji)加工過(guo)程中(zhong),會殘(can)留一些(xie)小(xiao)絨(rong)毛顆粒在(zai)(zai)衣(yi)(yi)服上,這是不可(ke)避免。一般在(zai)(zai)前幾次的洗(xi)滌中(zhong)會沖洗(xi)出(chu)來,尤其是黑色、寶藍、碳灰等深色系的衣(yi)(yi)服會特(te)(te)別明顯一些(xie)。