天鵝絨是什么面料
天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong),即漳絨(rong)(rong)。因(yin)起源于(yu)(yu)中國福建(jian)省漳州地區而得名。明代(dai)已有大量(liang)生產,是(shi)中國傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)織物之一。天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)素來(lai)是(shi)傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)的(de)秋裝流行面(mian)(mian)料(liao),它奢華的(de)氣質(zhi)和豐富的(de)紋(wen)理營造出(chu)魔法般的(de)時尚氛圍。天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)面(mian)(mian)料(liao)均采用高配以上的(de)優質(zhi)棉紗制(zhi)成,主要有素色、印花(hua)、提花(hua)和抽條、色織以及爛(lan)花(hua)幾(ji)個系列。素天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)全部絨(rong)(rong)圈,花(hua)天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)則是(shi)將部分絨(rong)(rong)圈按花(hua)紋(wen)割斷(duan)成絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao),使絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)與絨(rong)(rong)圈相間(jian),構成花(hua)紋(wen)。天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)的(de)絨(rong)(rong)毛(mao)或絨(rong)(rong)圈緊密聳立,色光文雅,堅牢(lao)耐磨,可用于(yu)(yu)制(zhi)做服裝、帽子和裝飾物。
天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong),在明清兩代最為興盛,有花天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)和素天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)二種(zhong)。花天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)是(shi)指將部分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按花紋割(ge)斷成(cheng)(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使之與未斷的線圈(quan)聯(lian)同構(gou)成(cheng)(cheng)紋樣;而素天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)則(ze)其(qi)表(biao)面全(quan)為絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。一般天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)用(yong)蠶絲(si)(si)作(zuo)原料(liao)或(huo)(huo)作(zuo)經線,以(yi)棉紗作(zuo)緯線,再以(yi)桑蠶絲(si)(si)(或(huo)(huo)人造(zao)絲(si)(si))起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)。織造(zao)時(shi),每(mei)織四根絨(rong)(rong)(rong)線便織入一根起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)桿(gan)(即(ji)(ji)細鐵(tie)絲(si)(si)),織到一定長度(du)時(shi)即(ji)(ji)在機(ji)上用(yong)割(ge)刀(dao)沿鐵(tie)絲(si)(si)剖(pou)割(ge),即(ji)(ji)成(cheng)(cheng)毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)。毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)如何(he)起(qi)是(shi)依紋樣設(she)計。構(gou)成(cheng)(cheng)織物的紋樣有兩種(zhong)形式:一是(shi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)花緞地、即(ji)(ji)漳(zhang)緞;一是(shi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)地緞花,即(ji)(ji)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)。其(qi)特(te)點是(shi)少有織地,有單、雙色,或(huo)(huo)嵌(qian)金銀線
天鵝絨面料的優缺點
一、優點
1、天鵝絨絨毛豐滿,質地細膩,手感柔(rou)軟(ruan),穿著舒適,美觀大方。有彈性,不掉毛,不起(qi)球(qiu),吸水性能好(hao),是(shi)全棉(mian)產(chan)品的(de)三倍,而且(qie)對皮膚無任何刺激。
2、天鵝絨(rong)(rong)的絨(rong)(rong)毛或絨(rong)(rong)圈緊(jin)密聳立,色光文雅,織物(wu)堅牢(lao)耐磨,不易褪色,回(hui)力彈(dan)性好。
3、天鵝(e)絨(rong)(rong)產(chan)品要(yao)求品級要(yao)高、線密度要(yao)小(xiao)、長度長、成熟度好的細長絨(rong)(rong)優質棉。
4、天鵝絨細膩的(de)(de)(de)觸感、流通的(de)(de)(de)垂墜(zhui)感和(he)高雅的(de)(de)(de)光(guang)澤依然是其他布料無(wu)法比擬的(de)(de)(de),因而一直(zhi)是時裝(zhuang)描(miao)繪師們華(hua)貴(gui)布中(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)摯愛(ai)挑(tiao)選。
二、缺點
1、不經意地堆(dui)疊天鵝絨(rong)服裝,很(hen)容易損(sun)壞絨(rong)毛(mao)的天然走向,很(hen)難(nan)康復,容易有靜電。
2、因為天鵝(e)絨本身的特(te)性,表面為密(mi)密(mi)麻麻的小絨毛組成(cheng),在(zai)面料生產及(ji)加工過程中,會殘(can)留一(yi)(yi)些小絨毛顆粒(li)在(zai)衣服上,這是不(bu)可避免。一(yi)(yi)般在(zai)前幾次(ci)的洗滌中會沖洗出來,尤其是黑色(se)、寶藍、碳灰等深色(se)系的衣服會特(te)別(bie)明顯(xian)一(yi)(yi)些。