天鵝絨是什么面料
天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong),即漳(zhang)絨(rong)(rong)。因起源于中國福建省漳(zhang)州地區而得名(ming)。明代已有大(da)量生產,是中國傳統(tong)織物之(zhi)一(yi)。天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)素來(lai)是傳統(tong)的秋裝流行面料,它奢華(hua)的氣(qi)質(zhi)和(he)豐(feng)富的紋理(li)營(ying)造出魔(mo)法(fa)般的時尚氛圍。天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)面料均采用(yong)(yong)高配以上的優(you)質(zhi)棉紗制成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),主要有素色(se)(se)、印花(hua)(hua)、提(ti)花(hua)(hua)和(he)抽(chou)條、色(se)(se)織以及(ji)爛花(hua)(hua)幾個系列。素天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)表面全部絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan),花(hua)(hua)天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)則(ze)是將部分(fen)絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)按花(hua)(hua)紋割斷成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)毛,使(shi)絨(rong)(rong)毛與絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)相間,構成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)花(hua)(hua)紋。天鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)的絨(rong)(rong)毛或絨(rong)(rong)圈(quan)緊密聳(song)立,色(se)(se)光文雅(ya),堅牢耐磨,可(ke)用(yong)(yong)于制做服(fu)裝、帽子(zi)和(he)裝飾物。
天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong),在(zai)明清兩(liang)代(dai)最為興盛,有(you)(you)花天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)和(he)素(su)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)二(er)種(zhong)。花天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)是指(zhi)將部分絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)(quan)按花紋割斷成(cheng)(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)毛,使之與未斷的線圈(quan)(quan)聯同構(gou)成(cheng)(cheng)紋樣(yang);而素(su)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)則(ze)其(qi)表面全(quan)為絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)(quan)。一(yi)般(ban)天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)用蠶(can)絲(si)(si)作原料或作經線,以棉紗作緯線,再以桑蠶(can)絲(si)(si)(或人(ren)造(zao)絲(si)(si))起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)圈(quan)(quan)。織造(zao)時,每(mei)織四根絨(rong)(rong)(rong)線便(bian)織入一(yi)根起(qi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)桿(gan)(即細(xi)鐵絲(si)(si)),織到一(yi)定長度(du)時即在(zai)機上(shang)用割刀(dao)沿鐵絲(si)(si)剖割,即成(cheng)(cheng)毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)。毛絨(rong)(rong)(rong)如何起(qi)是依(yi)紋樣(yang)設計。構(gou)成(cheng)(cheng)織物的紋樣(yang)有(you)(you)兩(liang)種(zhong)形式(shi):一(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)花緞地(di)、即漳緞;一(yi)是絨(rong)(rong)(rong)地(di)緞花,即天(tian)(tian)鵝(e)(e)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)。其(qi)特點是少有(you)(you)織地(di),有(you)(you)單、雙色,或嵌金銀線
天鵝絨面料的優缺點
一、優點
1、天鵝絨(rong)絨(rong)毛豐(feng)滿(man),質地細膩,手(shou)感柔軟,穿(chuan)著舒適,美觀(guan)大方。有彈性(xing),不(bu)掉(diao)毛,不(bu)起球,吸水(shui)性(xing)能好,是全棉(mian)產品的(de)三倍(bei),而且對皮(pi)膚無(wu)任何刺激(ji)。
2、天(tian)鵝絨(rong)的絨(rong)毛或絨(rong)圈緊密(mi)聳立,色光(guang)文雅,織物堅牢耐磨,不易褪(tun)色,回(hui)力彈(dan)性好。
3、天鵝絨產品要求品級要高、線密(mi)度要小、長(chang)(chang)度長(chang)(chang)、成熟度好的細長(chang)(chang)絨優質(zhi)棉。
4、天鵝絨細膩的(de)觸感、流通(tong)的(de)垂墜感和高雅的(de)光澤依(yi)然(ran)是(shi)其他布(bu)(bu)料(liao)無法比擬的(de),因而一直是(shi)時裝描繪師們華貴布(bu)(bu)中的(de)摯愛挑選。
二、缺點
1、不經意地堆疊(die)天鵝絨服裝,很容易損壞絨毛的(de)天然(ran)走(zou)向(xiang),很難康(kang)復,容易有靜電。
2、因為天(tian)鵝絨本身的(de)特性(xing),表(biao)面為密密麻麻的(de)小絨毛組成,在(zai)面料生產(chan)及(ji)加(jia)工過程中,會(hui)殘留一些(xie)小絨毛顆粒(li)在(zai)衣服上,這是(shi)不可避免。一般在(zai)前幾次的(de)洗(xi)滌(di)中會(hui)沖洗(xi)出來,尤其(qi)是(shi)黑色(se)、寶(bao)藍、碳灰等深色(se)系的(de)衣服會(hui)特別明顯一些(xie)。