東(dong)岳廟位于(yu)蒲縣(xian)城東(dong)二公里的柏山(shan)之巔。這里環山(shan)十多里皆為松柏叢(cong)林,鳥語柏香,峰巒(luan)聳翠,景色宜人(ren)。
來到東(dong)岳(yue)廟所在地,首先(xian)映(ying)入人們眼簾(lian)的(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)影壁上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)“蒲縣(xian)(xian)勝景”四個大(da)字。東(dong)岳(yue)廟創建年(nian)代不詳(xiang),金(jin)泰和五年(nian)(1325)已有(you),歷(li)代修葺。由此北上(shang),沿長虹磴道(dao),經土(tu)地祠、將(jiang)軍祠、“御馬廳”、“蓮云(yun)廳”,便可(ke)遠遠望(wang)見(jian)山門。穿(chuan)山門往上(shang)望(wang),可(ke)見(jian)登仙(xian)橋,它是(shi)(shi)凌霄(xiao)殿通往天堂樓的(de)(de)(de)唯一(yi)通道(dao)。凌霄(xiao)殿的(de)(de)(de)神龕塑像是(shi)(shi)黃(huang)(huang)滾(gun)夫婦,即(ji)黃(huang)(huang)飛虎的(de)(de)(de)父母雙(shuang)親。在樂(le)樓背后的(de)(de)(de)通道(dao)口(kou)有(you)一(yi)幅醒目的(de)(de)(de)對(dui)(dui)聯(lian),它是(shi)(shi)蒲縣(xian)(xian)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)個知縣(xian)(xian)寫的(de)(de)(de),上(shang)聯(lian)是(shi)(shi)“伐吾(wu)山林吾(wu)勿語”,下聯(lian)是(shi)(shi)“傷汝性命汝難(nan)逃”。大(da)概是(shi)(shi)因(yin)為(wei)(wei)有(you)這幅對(dui)(dui)聯(lian)的(de)(de)(de)原因(yin),柏山的(de)(de)(de)樹(shu)木(mu)保護得很好。從樂(le)樓下到看(kan)亭里,南望(wang)是(shi)(shi)正面樂(le)樓,再(zai)看(kan)東(dong)、西兩側(ce)還各(ge)有(you)一(yi)樂(le)樓。顯然這里過去可(ke)以同時演出(chu)三臺戲,其熱鬧景象可(ke)想而(er)知。正面樂(le)樓橫楣有(you)精致(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)木(mu)雕,其內容為(wei)(wei)人物故事,左為(wei)(wei)“漁樵”,右為(wei)(wei)“耕讀”,中間是(shi)(shi)“八仙(xian)慶壽”,并(bing)有(you)花卉(hui)穿(chuan)插陪(pei)襯。工藝(yi)細(xi)致(zhi)精巧(qiao),深受游人贊賞。
從看亭(ting)過金(jin)水橋(qiao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)獻亭(ting),是(shi)(shi)(shi)為東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)大帝供獻祭品(pin)、進行(xing)祭祀活動(dong)的(de)地方(fang)。該亭(ting)建于金(jin)泰和(he)六年(1206),四周敞朗(lang),頂(ding)蓋為歇山(shan)式;四角均為蟠龍石(shi)(shi)柱,造(zao)型精湛(zhan),或(huo)(huo)(huo)拱軀待發,或(huo)(huo)(huo)回(hui)首(shou)怒視,或(huo)(huo)(huo)騰于云霧之中,或(huo)(huo)(huo)游于波濤之上,或(huo)(huo)(huo)追魚,或(huo)(huo)(huo)捕龜(gui),生(sheng)動(dong)逼真,是(shi)(shi)(shi)我(wo)國(guo)宋、金(jin)石(shi)(shi)雕藝(yi)術(shu)中的(de)珍品(pin)。獻亭(ting)的(de)正北(bei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)行(xing)宮(gong)大殿,宮(gong)門額書“東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)齊天”。殿內木制暖閣(ge)內塑(su)著東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)廟之主神——東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)大帝黃飛虎的(de)坐像,神態肅穆,長須垂胸。傳說,黃飛虎是(shi)(shi)(shi)商朝大臣,因(yin)紂(zhou)王(wang)暴虐無道(dao)(dao),遂反殷投周,跟周武王(wang)一起伐(fa)紂(zhou),屢建大功,直(zhi)至(zhi)戰死沙場。為了表(biao)彰其伐(fa)紂(zhou)功績,道(dao)(dao)教(jiao)祖師(shi)封其“東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)泰山(shan)天齊仁圣大帝”,為五岳(yue)(yue)之尊,總管天地人間吉兇禍福(fu),并執(zhi)掌(zhang)幽冥地府十(shi)八重(zhong)地獄(yu)。傳說凡一應生(sheng)死轉化人神仙鬼,俱從東(dong)(dong)岳(yue)(yue)勘對,方(fang)許施行(xing)。所以這(zhe)座(zuo)廟里還設置(zhi)了一座(zuo)規(gui)模龐(pang)大的(de)地獄(yu)。
東岳行宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)后(hou)面(mian)是寢(qin)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)。寢(qin)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)神(shen)龕(kan)里的塑像是黃(huang)飛虎夫(fu)人。寢(qin)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)背后(hou)是昌衍宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong),又名“子孫圣(sheng)母祠”。殿內木(mu)制神(shen)龕(kan)、泥塑主像三尊,為三霄娘娘。傳說其執(zhi)掌(zhang)人間生育(yu)。最(zui)后(hou)是地(di)獄。從地(di)獄入口下(xia)去,第一層是陰曹,分東曹、西曹。周圍廊下(xia)面(mian)的梁上繪著《封神(shen)演義》的故事(shi)。
從(cong)陰曹再(zai)下18個臺階,便是地獄(yu)(yu)。地獄(yu)(yu)山由三(san)面合圍的15孔(kong)窯洞組(zu)成,是東岳廟中(zhong)泥塑(su)藝術之(zhi)集(ji)錦。正北五(wu)孔(kong)窯內設五(wu)岳大(da)帝(di),東西兩邊(bian)是十殿(dian)(dian)閻君。十八地獄(yu)(yu)在(zai)各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)案(an)前交(jiao)錯羅列,各(ge)獄(yu)(yu)鬼卒,都在(zai)歷行(xing)職守,施行(xing)冥(ming)罰:有(you)(you)(you)(you)的推磨,有(you)(you)(you)(you)的拉(la)鋸,有(you)(you)(you)(you)的挖眼(yan),有(you)(you)(you)(you)的刮面,有(you)(you)(you)(you)的攪油鍋,有(you)(you)(you)(you)的燒火坑……或(huo)突眼(yan)怒(nu)視,或(huo)切齒鼓力,無(wu)不逼(bi)真傳神,給人(ren)(ren)以(yi)生動之(zhi)感。在(zai)地獄(yu)(yu)塑(su)像中(zhong),還穿插有(you)(you)(you)(you)“目連救母”、“龍王告狀”、“唐王游地獄(yu)(yu)”、“劉(liu)全進瓜”、“胡迪罵殿(dian)(dian)”等人(ren)(ren)物造(zao)型。整(zheng)座地獄(yu)(yu),從(cong)第一殿(dian)(dian)“陰陽(yang)界”始,到第十殿(dian)(dian)“輪(lun)回轉生”止,各(ge)類(lei)塑(su)像140余軀(qu),尺度(du)約同真人(ren)(ren)相等。像這樣龐大(da)完整(zheng)地獄(yu)(yu)造(zao)型,是我國(guo)現存寺廟中(zhong)稀有(you)(you)(you)(you)的一組(zu)明(ming)代泥塑(su)佳(jia)作。盡(jin)管其表(biao)現內容荒誕無(wu)稽,但塑(su)像本身卻是研究我國(guo)古代塑(su)造(zao)藝術的寶貴資料,因而受(shou)到國(guo)內外(wai)專(zhuan)家(jia)及游客的贊賞。
交通信息駕(jia)車(che)(che)出堯都(dou)區,沿臨(臨汾(fen)(fen))大(大寧(ning))線公路西(xi)北行(xing)(xing)70公里經(jing)劉村鎮、土門(men)鎮、黑龍關(guan)鎮即到(dao)東(dong)岳廟,行(xing)(xing)駛(shi)1.2小(xiao)(xiao)時(shi)。乘臨汾(fen)(fen)至(zhi)蒲縣方向(每25分(fen)鐘一(yi)班(ban))班(ban)車(che)(che)10~14元,需1.5小(xiao)(xiao)時(shi),再(zai)步行(xing)(xing)15分(fen)鐘。