府治(zhi)(zhi)在(zai)今(jin)府山(shan)之上,縣治(zhi)(zhi)在(zai)今(jin)十字街頭之右,故城中有縣西(xi)街,南(nan)街(原名(ming)(ming)縣南(nan)街或南(nan)市(shi)大街),縣后(hou)街等地名(ming)(ming),都(dou)是以(yi)縣治(zhi)(zhi)方位(wei)定名(ming)(ming)。府縣皆有治(zhi)(zhi)學(xue),縣學(xue)在(zai)縣學(xue)街黌(hong)序巷(xiang),古有鹿鳴書(shu)院;府學(xue)在(zai)府山(shan)西(xi)麓,故地叫府學(xue)里,建有清蓮書(shu)院(又名(ming)(ming)正誼(yi)書(shu)院)。
城(cheng)(cheng)池始(shi)建(jian)于(yu)(yu)漢(han)代(dai)(東(dong)(dong)漢(han)土墻(qiang)(qiang)為(wei)屯兵之用,由當時駐軍鄭平(ping)(ping)等人首建(jian),而非府城(cheng)(cheng)),現存(cun)的府城(cheng)(cheng)以唐(tang)代(dai)為(wei)基(ji)礎,明代(dai)重修(xiu)。原(yuan)有(you)六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men):東(dong)(dong)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“迎和門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“禮(li)賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通(tong)遠(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)光(guang)遠(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“航遠(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)水亭門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)朝京門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));北(bei)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“永清(qing)(qing)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)浮石門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)拱宸(chen)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));東(dong)(dong)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“清(qing)(qing)輝門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)前湖門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)魁星門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“和平(ping)(ping)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)(su)(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)埭堰門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通(tong)廣門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men))。六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之上(shang)均建(jian)樓(lou),各(ge)(ge)(ge)為(wei)兩(liang)層(ceng)歇山,各(ge)(ge)(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)形制(zhi)以水亭為(wei)例(li):城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)墻(qiang)(qiang)高7.3米(mi),厚12.37米(mi),兩(liang)側(ce)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)殘(can)長各(ge)(ge)(ge)為(wei)30米(mi)、20米(mi);拱券高5.55米(mi),寬(kuan)4.88米(mi),墻(qiang)(qiang)基(ji)用8層(ceng)條石錯縫平(ping)(ping)砌(qi),高1.5米(mi),上(shang)用磚平(ping)(ping)砌(qi)1.4米(mi)處(chu)起(qi)券,券頂(ding)橫砌(qi)。在(zai)迎和、清(qing)(qing)輝、禮(li)賢、永清(qing)(qing)四門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外包筑(zhu)月(yue)(yue)城(cheng)(cheng)。明代(dai)又(you)(you)(you)(you)在(zai)西(xi)(xi)北(bei)角開“西(xi)(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”。府城(cheng)(cheng)現存(cun)西(xi)(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)及小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之半,除大西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)于(yu)(yu)上(shang)世紀末(mo)重新修(xiu)繕外,各(ge)(ge)(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)已(yi)圮。城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)殘(can)存(cun)的約有(you)2000米(mi),殘(can)高3—5米(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)外護城(cheng)(cheng)河基(ji)本保存(cun),南(nan)(nan)湖、斗潭保存(cun)較好,東(dong)(dong)側(ce)城(cheng)(cheng)河則有(you)待于(yu)(yu)疏浚。1989年12月(yue)(yue)公布(bu)為(wei)省級重點文(wen)物(wu)保護單位。
2006年6月(yue),衢(qu)州府城正式被(bei)國(guo)(guo)(guo)務院核(he)定公(gong)布為第六批全國(guo)(guo)(guo)重(zhong)點文(wen)物保護單(dan)位,衢(qu)州府城是我國(guo)(guo)(guo)東南重(zhong)鎮(zhen)的實物依據(ju),是研究府城一級城池格(ge)局、規模等方面的實物標本。此(ci)外(wai),衢(qu)州府城在選址(zhi)和城臺形制等方面皆有獨到之處,具有很高的歷史、藝術(shu)、科學價值(zhi)。
城(cheng)池是中(zhong)國特有(you)的(de)(de)人文(wen)景觀,是城(cheng)市(shi)的(de)(de)縮影。衢州是一(yi)座(zuo)歷史(shi)文(wen)化名城(cheng),這座(zuo)城(cheng)市(shi)有(you)著(zhu)深厚的(de)(de)文(wen)化底蘊,城(cheng)墻和城(cheng)河就是歷史(shi)的(de)(de)見(jian)證,文(wen)化的(de)(de)背景。
衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)歷(li)史悠(you)久,明(ming)弘治(zhi)《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)志》云:“今(jin)龜峰之城(cheng)(cheng)亦(yi)不知其初(chu)建。州(zhou)人相傳,先(xian)址(zhi)土墻(qiang)而(er)已(yi)。”衢(qu)州(zhou)之城(cheng)(cheng)建于(yu)(yu)何時(shi),史志均無明(ming)確(que)的(de)記載,尚難以確(que)定(ding),但比較統一(yi)的(de)說法是唐(tang)(tang)以后衢(qu)州(zhou)才正式建筑了磚石城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。明(ming)嘉靖《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)志》云:“唐(tang)(tang)武德(de)(de)四(si)年(621)置衢(qu)州(zhou)建郡治(zhi)”。有郭必有城(cheng)(cheng),因為(wei)自古以來城(cheng)(cheng)郭是相依的(de)。唐(tang)(tang)崔耿《女樓記》云:“衢(qu)之城(cheng)(cheng)成于(yu)(yu)龜峰崢嶸嶺上”,說得亦(yi)十分肯定(ding)。所以可以斷定(ding),衢(qu)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)的(de)初(chu)建,其時(shi)當在唐(tang)(tang)武德(de)(de)四(si)年建郡治(zhi)之后;其址(zhi)當以龜峰、崢嶸嶺為(wei)中(zhong)心。自此(ci)以后,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)歷(li)經(jing)修筑、擴展(zhan),形成保留(liu)至今(jin)的(de)古城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。
衢州(zhou)地(di)處(chu)浙西(xi),交通便利,自古(gu)有四(si)省通衢之美名,此地(di)能控鄱(po)陽之肘腋,扼甌(ou)閩之咽(yan)喉(hou),連宣徽之聲勢(shi),集百(bai)越(yue)之精華。這里是(shi)圍棋(qi)仙境、軍事要(yao)塞、文化(hua)之邦,是(shi)錢(qian)塘江上游的璀璨明(ming)珠(zhu)。夏商為“揚(yang)州(zhou)之域”,春秋(qiu)歸(gui)越(yue),戰國(guo)歸(gui)楚(chu),秦屬會稽(ji),漢屬東陽,三國(guo)從吳,建(jian)制于(yu)唐,興于(yu)宋(song),昌于(yu)明(ming),盛于(yu)清。前后近兩千年的發展史(shi)。
唐(tang)武德(de)四年(621)尉(yu)遲敬德(de)奉高(gao)宗之命分婺州(今金華(hua))置衢(qu)州,在衢(qu)江畔建(jian)設城(cheng)池,初(chu)時城(cheng)中有起(qi)伏小丘數座(zuo),居(ju)高(gao)臨下,適于(yu)防守,城(cheng)外(wai)還有大片土地(di),宜作良田(tian),供城(cheng)糧草(cao)。始建(jian)城(cheng)時,周邊(bian)居(ju)民皆遷(qian)入城(cheng)圈,并協(xie)作建(jian)城(cheng)。當時軍民合(he)力日出(chu)而作,日落而息,竭(jie)力造城(cheng)。
宋宣和三(san)年(nian)(1121)郡守高至(zhi)臨,始在六門之上建設城(cheng)樓,挖城(cheng)內(nei)河(he),并開(kai)鑿城(cheng)壕,引(yin)烏溪江之水環(huan)之,自此(ci)衢州(zhou)便有了護城(cheng)河(he),水環(huan)北、東、南(nan)三(san)面皆通衢江,因(yin)而(er)船(chuan)只可(ke)入航城(cheng)池,進水門洞,到(dao)達城(cheng)中各處,這些使衢州(zhou)城(cheng)防進一(yi)(yi)步(bu)完(wan)善。據清康(kang)熙《西(xi)安縣志》載:“城(cheng)高一(yi)(yi)丈六尺(chi)五寸,廣(guang)一(yi)(yi)丈一(yi)(yi)尺(chi),周回(hui)四千(qian)五十步(bu)。”
元至(zhi)正十五年監郡伯顏忽都,沿城(cheng)(cheng)舊址(zhi),修復年久殘(can)敗的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻,共修五百余步(bu),并在北門(men)、東(dong)門(men)、大南(nan)(nan)門(men)和小南(nan)(nan)門(men)外包以(yi)月(yue)城(cheng)(cheng)。以(yi)六門(men)之上再(zai)建城(cheng)(cheng)樓,使六門(men)煥然一新。這次建設使府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)有了完備(bei)的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)和池(chi)。
明(ming)天(tian)順年(nian)間(jian)(1457-1464),曾短時間(jian)內封過朝(chao)京門(水亭(ting)門),并在城西(xi)北角文昌閣(ge)開挖西(xi)安門,自此衢州六(liu)門就(jiu)有(you)了第七個門,此后明(ming)清時期(qi)又(you)修葺城垣百余次(ci),由此奠(dian)定了衢州的(de)基礎。
衢州(zhou)府(fu)城一直(zhi)是保(bao)護(hu)完好的(de)城防,民國(guo)五年(nian)(1916)以前還曾(ceng)對城墻進行(xing)修葺,而第一次的(de)破壞就(jiu)是在解放(fang)前的(de)民國(guo)時(shi)代,當時(shi)的(de)縣長叫王超(chao)凡拓寬上(shang)下街,新(xin)城門就(jiu)是在他手上(shang)打開(kai)的(de)。
衢(qu)州府(fu)城從那以后(hou)就進(jin)入了(le)20世紀的時代(dai)變遷,之后(hou)由于五六十年代(dai)大(da)搞農業,大(da)興土木(mu)就大(da)規(gui)模的遭到了(le)破壞。
城(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)(chi)核心是城(cheng)(cheng)隍和城(cheng)(cheng)郭,一個完整的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)(chi)必然少不(bu)了(le)由城(cheng)(cheng)墻、城(cheng)(cheng)壕、月城(cheng)(cheng)、城(cheng)(cheng)門、城(cheng)(cheng)樓等部分。
城隍,道教中負責城池的(de)(de)地方神,也(ye)指干涸的(de)(de)城壕。
城郭(guo),城指(zhi)內(nei)城墻,外城墻為郭(guo)。
城墻,也叫城垣(yuan),是城防的主體。
女墻(qiang)(指(zhi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)上(shang)凹凸的(de)(de)短墻(qiang))、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)堞(die)(包圍月城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),也叫城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垛(duo))組成。
城(cheng)壕,也(ye)叫(jiao)護(hu)城(cheng)河(he),環繞城(cheng)外的(de)水體。
月城(cheng)(cheng),也叫甕城(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)門外(wai)用以屏蔽城(cheng)(cheng)門的小(xiao)城(cheng)(cheng),月城(cheng)(cheng)的門稱城(cheng)(cheng)堙。
城樓(lou),建(jian)于城門或城墻之上的樓(lou)。
城闕(que),城門(men)兩邊的望樓(lou)。
城(cheng)(cheng)廂,指城(cheng)(cheng)內和城(cheng)(cheng)門外(wai)附近。
城根(gen),靠近城墻的地(di)方。
城關(guan),城門(men)(men)外靠近城門(men)(men)的一帶地(di)區。
吊橋,架在城壕上方便(bian)行路的木制斜拉橋。
現衢州(zhou)府城(cheng)還保留了部分城(cheng)墻和(he)除北門(men)之外的(de)其他城(cheng)門(men),以及周(zhou)邊的(de)護城(cheng)河。東門(men),又名迎(ying)和(he)門(men)、紫金(jin)門(men),門(men)外有(you)青龍碼頭,新任官(guan)員都從此入城(cheng),門(men)外為(wei)七里街,大概因門(men)外有(you)一送別(bie)亭(ting)(ting)名七里亭(ting)(ting)之故。為(wei)市區和(he)機場的(de)分界線(xian)。
小南(nan)門(men)(men),俗稱通仙門(men)(men),又名(ming)清(qing)輝門(men)(men)、前湖門(men)(men),據傳住在仙霞嶺、爛(lan)柯山的神(shen)仙在此出(chu)入頻繁。而且在小南(nan)門(men)(men)附近有(you)位惡婦(fu)壞事干盡,神(shen)仙怕她,所以三天兩(liang)頭來(lai)治她。原門(men)(men)上(shang)有(you)魁星(xing)閣為衢州八閣之一,傳說天氣晴朗的時(shi)候(hou)在城(cheng)樓(lou)上(shang)能看見爛(lan)柯山,門(men)(men)外有(you)魁星(xing)街。
大南(nan)門,也叫禮(li)賢門、光遠門,此門名得禮(li)賢,原(yuan)因(yin)有(you)二,一說(shuo)衢(qu)州建城官員尉遲敬德,曾(ceng)在此門外(wai)迎接恩師,意為禮(li)賢下士;又一說(shuo)江山縣曾(ceng)經稱(cheng)作禮(li)賢縣,門通禮(li)賢故得名。城門附(fu)近有(you)空曠土地(di)俗稱(cheng)花街頭,是因(yin)十五(wu)鬧元宵的隊伍都集(ji)中(zhong)于此,并由此地(di)進城。門外(wai)有(you)街名曰(yue)禮(li)賢街。
小西門(men),又叫通廣門(men),古時(shi)城(cheng)門(men)外埠(bu)頭眾多,船家云集(ji),走水路(lu)可(ke)達蘇杭,經大運河更是可(ke)通全國。由于保護不(bu)善,解放后,門(men)拱坍塌,現有(you)城(cheng)墻尚保存。門(men)外南側有(you)衢(qu)州三塔之一(yi)的銅塔,為鑄兵器(qi),毀于太平天(tian)國時(shi)期。
大西(xi)門(men)(men),又(you)稱水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)門(men)(men)、朝京門(men)(men),水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)為門(men)(men)內街名,興許(xu)是城門(men)(men)外的(de)卷雪亭(ting)(ting)(ting),常(chang)被(bei)水(shui)漫(man),故作(zuo)水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)。在這一(yi)區(qu)域是城中水(shui)患的(de)又(you)一(yi)重地,古(gu)有(you)“水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)街,街停水(shui),水(shui)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)街上(shang)漲大水(shui)”的(de)句子。城門(men)(men)上(shang)有(you)樓(lou)名曰(yue)碧春樓(lou),又(you)名西(xi)勝樓(lou),是衢州九樓(lou)之一(yi)。門(men)(men)內天皇(huang)巷有(you)衢州三(san)塔之一(yi)的(de)天皇(huang)塔,由(you)于年久失(shi)修,已于五十年代中期拆除。
西安門,為(wei)明朝中后(hou)期(qi)才開的新門,位(wei)于城區西北(bei)角(jiao),門面(mian)較小,門內(nei)有(you)文昌閣為(wei)衢州八閣之一,門外是烈婦祠,為(wei)表貞潔(jie)烈女而建。附近還有(you)衢州三塔之一的鐵塔。
北(bei)門(men)(men)(men),又名(ming)拱(gong)(gong)辰(chen)(chen)門(men)(men)(men)、浮(fu)石門(men)(men)(men),門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)有拱(gong)(gong)辰(chen)(chen)橋(北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)橋),古時外(wai)面為浮(fu)石街,此(ci)門(men)(men)(men)已于五十(shi)年(nian)代時拆除(chu)。
其下方的(de)小河為(wei)(wei)斗潭的(de)東(dong)出水口。城(cheng)墻內原為(wei)(wei)衢州(zhou)名勝菱湖所(suo)在地,湖域面積逾千畝,攬(lan)得一方盛景。湖南岸就是孔廟,附近有止馬灣,為(wei)(wei)水體的(de)一部分。清軍政(zheng)大臣左宗棠任浙江巡撫期間,平復太(tai)平天國后便(bian)在城(cheng)中大興(xing)農業,將菱湖開渠出水,填湖為(wei)(wei)田。
新城(cheng)門(men),是(shi)(shi)民國初期(qi)為了(le)方便交通(tong),把上街(jie)頭上的城(cheng)墻扒去(qu),并(bing)拆除了(le)附(fu)近(jin)攔路的土地祠,那打通(tong)的城(cheng)墻部分就叫做新城(cheng)門(men)。從此(ci)上下街(jie)被打通(tong),成了(le)衢州主(zhu)干道(dao),解(jie)放后還是(shi)(shi)320國道(dao)的一部分。
鐵衢門(men),早些年(nian)(nian)在環(huan)城東路拐角(jiao)的地方還能看到(dao),那是90年(nian)(nian)代建(jian)的景觀門(men),舊城改造,府山擴建(jian)后就拆除了。
南湖,這是衢(qu)州人熟悉的一條護城河了(le)(le),河上原有大(da)南門、小南門兩(liang)座吊橋(qiao),現已經都改(gai)成鋼精水泥橋(qiao)了(le)(le)。
斗(dou)潭,是北面的(de)(de)護城河(he),保存較好,所(suo)謂斗(dou)潭就是說(shuo)潭大(da)如斗(dou),是指(zhi)斗(dou)潭小的(de)(de)原(yuan)因(yin),其實斗(dou)潭不小,全長750米,平(ping)均(jun)寬度也在25米以上。
西溪(xi)(xi)衢江,是衢州(zhou)西面天然的屏(ping)障(zhang),故名西溪(xi)(xi)、濲水、信安江等。也衢州(zhou)水運(yun)的主(zhu)要商業航道。寬可大二(er)三百米(mi)。
東濠(hao),濠(hao)為護(hu)城河(he)(he),原先的水運河(he)(he)流青龍碼(ma)頭已經不在了,剩(sheng)下的是被分割成的一塊塊魚塘,還有待疏(shu)浚。