府(fu)治在今(jin)府(fu)山(shan)之(zhi)上,縣(xian)治在今(jin)十字(zi)街(jie)頭之(zhi)右,故(gu)城(cheng)中有縣(xian)西街(jie),南街(jie)(原名縣(xian)南街(jie)或(huo)南市大(da)街(jie)),縣(xian)后街(jie)等地名,都是以縣(xian)治方位定名。府(fu)縣(xian)皆有治學,縣(xian)學在縣(xian)學街(jie)黌序巷,古有鹿鳴書(shu)院;府(fu)學在府(fu)山(shan)西麓,故(gu)地叫(jiao)府(fu)學里,建有清蓮書(shu)院(又(you)名正誼書(shu)院)。
城(cheng)(cheng)池始建于(yu)漢代(dai)(東(dong)(dong)(dong)漢土墻為(wei)屯兵之用,由當時駐軍鄭平等(deng)人(ren)首建,而非府城(cheng)(cheng)),現(xian)存(cun)(cun)的(de)府城(cheng)(cheng)以唐代(dai)為(wei)基礎,明代(dai)重修(xiu)。原(yuan)有六(liu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men):東(dong)(dong)(dong)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“迎和門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“禮(li)賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)光遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)(xi)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“航遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)水亭門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)朝(chao)京門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));北(bei)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“永(yong)清門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)浮石門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)拱宸(chen)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));東(dong)(dong)(dong)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“清輝門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)前湖(hu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)魁星門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)(xi)(xi)南(nan)(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“和平門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)埭堰門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通廣門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men))。六(liu)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之上(shang)均建樓(lou),各為(wei)兩層歇山,各門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)形制以水亭為(wei)例:城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)墻高7.3米(mi)(mi),厚12.37米(mi)(mi),兩側(ce)城(cheng)(cheng)墻殘長各為(wei)30米(mi)(mi)、20米(mi)(mi);拱券高5.55米(mi)(mi),寬4.88米(mi)(mi),墻基用8層條石錯縫平砌,高1.5米(mi)(mi),上(shang)用磚平砌1.4米(mi)(mi)處起(qi)券,券頂橫砌。在迎和、清輝、禮(li)賢、永(yong)清四門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)包筑月城(cheng)(cheng)。明代(dai)又(you)(you)在西(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)角(jiao)開“西(xi)(xi)(xi)安門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”。府城(cheng)(cheng)現(xian)存(cun)(cun)西(xi)(xi)(xi)安門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、小(xiao)南(nan)(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)及小(xiao)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之半,除大西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)于(yu)上(shang)世紀末重新修(xiu)繕外(wai)(wai),各門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)已圮。城(cheng)(cheng)墻殘存(cun)(cun)的(de)約有2000米(mi)(mi),殘高3—5米(mi)(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)護城(cheng)(cheng)河基本保(bao)存(cun)(cun),南(nan)(nan)湖(hu)、斗潭保(bao)存(cun)(cun)較好(hao),東(dong)(dong)(dong)側(ce)城(cheng)(cheng)河則有待于(yu)疏浚。1989年12月公布為(wei)省級重點文物保(bao)護單(dan)位(wei)。
2006年6月,衢(qu)州府(fu)城正式被國務院核定(ding)公(gong)布為(wei)第六批(pi)全國重點文物(wu)(wu)保護(hu)單(dan)位,衢(qu)州府(fu)城是(shi)我國東南重鎮的(de)實物(wu)(wu)依據,是(shi)研究府(fu)城一級城池格局、規模等(deng)方面的(de)實物(wu)(wu)標(biao)本。此外,衢(qu)州府(fu)城在選址和城臺形制等(deng)方面皆有獨到之(zhi)處,具有很(hen)高的(de)歷(li)史、藝術(shu)、科學價值。
城(cheng)池是(shi)中國特(te)有的(de)人文景觀,是(shi)城(cheng)市(shi)的(de)縮影。衢州是(shi)一座(zuo)歷史文化(hua)名城(cheng),這座(zuo)城(cheng)市(shi)有著深厚的(de)文化(hua)底蘊,城(cheng)墻和城(cheng)河就(jiu)是(shi)歷史的(de)見證,文化(hua)的(de)背景。
衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)城歷(li)史(shi)悠久(jiu),明弘治《衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)志》云(yun):“今龜(gui)(gui)峰之城亦不知其(qi)初建(jian)。州(zhou)(zhou)人相傳,先址土墻(qiang)而已。”衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)之城建(jian)于何時,史(shi)志均無明確的記載(zai),尚(shang)難(nan)以確定(ding),但比(bi)較(jiao)統一的說(shuo)法是唐(tang)以后(hou)衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)才正式建(jian)筑(zhu)了磚(zhuan)石城墻(qiang)。明嘉靖《衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)志》云(yun):“唐(tang)武(wu)德四年(621)置衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)建(jian)郡治”。有郭必(bi)有城,因為自古以來(lai)城郭是相依的。唐(tang)崔耿《女樓記》云(yun):“衢(qu)之城成(cheng)于龜(gui)(gui)峰崢嶸嶺(ling)上”,說(shuo)得亦十分肯定(ding)。所(suo)以可以斷定(ding),衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)城墻(qiang)的初建(jian),其(qi)時當(dang)在唐(tang)武(wu)德四年建(jian)郡治之后(hou);其(qi)址當(dang)以龜(gui)(gui)峰、崢嶸嶺(ling)為中(zhong)心。自此以后(hou),城墻(qiang)歷(li)經修筑(zhu)、擴展,形成(cheng)保留至今的古城墻(qiang)。
衢州地(di)處浙(zhe)西,交通便(bian)利,自(zi)古(gu)有四省通衢之(zhi)美名,此地(di)能控鄱陽之(zhi)肘腋,扼甌閩之(zhi)咽喉,連宣(xuan)徽(hui)之(zhi)聲勢,集(ji)百越之(zhi)精華。這里是(shi)圍棋仙境、軍事(shi)要(yao)塞、文化(hua)之(zhi)邦,是(shi)錢塘(tang)江上游的璀璨明珠。夏商為“揚州之(zhi)域”,春秋歸越,戰國歸楚,秦屬(shu)會稽,漢屬(shu)東陽,三國從吳(wu),建制于唐,興于宋,昌于明,盛于清。前后近兩千(qian)年的發展史。
唐武德四年(621)尉(yu)遲敬(jing)德奉高宗之命分婺州(今金華)置衢州,在(zai)衢江畔建設城(cheng)池,初時(shi)城(cheng)中有(you)(you)起(qi)伏(fu)小丘數座,居高臨下(xia),適(shi)于防守(shou),城(cheng)外還有(you)(you)大(da)片(pian)土地,宜作良(liang)田,供城(cheng)糧(liang)草。始(shi)建城(cheng)時(shi),周邊居民(min)皆遷(qian)入(ru)城(cheng)圈,并協作建城(cheng)。當時(shi)軍民(min)合力日出而(er)(er)作,日落而(er)(er)息,竭力造(zao)城(cheng)。
宋宣和三年(1121)郡守高(gao)至(zhi)臨,始在(zai)六門之上建設(she)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓,挖城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內河(he),并開(kai)鑿城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)壕(hao),引烏(wu)溪江(jiang)之水環(huan)之,自此衢(qu)(qu)州(zhou)便有了(le)護(hu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河(he),水環(huan)北、東、南三面皆通衢(qu)(qu)江(jiang),因而船(chuan)只可(ke)入航(hang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池,進(jin)(jin)水門洞,到達城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)中各(ge)處(chu),這些使衢(qu)(qu)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)防進(jin)(jin)一步完善。據(ju)清康熙《西安(an)縣志》載:“城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)一丈六尺(chi)五(wu)寸,廣一丈一尺(chi),周回(hui)四千五(wu)十(shi)步。”
元至正十(shi)五年(nian)監郡伯顏(yan)忽都,沿城(cheng)舊址,修復(fu)年(nian)久殘敗(bai)的城(cheng)墻,共(gong)修五百余步,并在北門(men)、東(dong)門(men)、大南門(men)和小南門(men)外包以月城(cheng)。以六(liu)門(men)之上再建城(cheng)樓,使六(liu)門(men)煥然一(yi)新。這次建設使府(fu)城(cheng)有了完備的城(cheng)和池(chi)。
明天(tian)順年間(1457-1464),曾短時間內封過(guo)朝京門(men)(水亭門(men)),并在(zai)城西北角文昌閣開挖(wa)西安門(men),自此(ci)衢州(zhou)六門(men)就有了第七個(ge)門(men),此(ci)后明清時期(qi)又修葺城垣百余次,由(you)此(ci)奠(dian)定了衢州(zhou)的基礎(chu)。
衢州府城一直是保護完好的城防,民國五年(nian)(1916)以前還曾對城墻進行修葺,而第一次(ci)的破壞就(jiu)是在解(jie)放前的民國時代,當時的縣長叫王超凡拓(tuo)寬上(shang)下街,新城門就(jiu)是在他手(shou)上(shang)打開的。
衢州(zhou)府城(cheng)從(cong)那以(yi)后(hou)(hou)就(jiu)進入了(le)20世紀的時代(dai)變遷,之后(hou)(hou)由于五六十年代(dai)大(da)搞農業,大(da)興(xing)土木就(jiu)大(da)規(gui)模的遭到了(le)破壞。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)核心是城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)隍(huang)和(he)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)郭,一(yi)個完整的城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)必然少(shao)不了由城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)壕、月城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓等部(bu)分。
城(cheng)隍,道教(jiao)中負(fu)責城(cheng)池的地方神(shen),也指干涸的城(cheng)壕。
城(cheng)(cheng)郭(guo),城(cheng)(cheng)指內城(cheng)(cheng)墻,外城(cheng)(cheng)墻為郭(guo)。
城(cheng)墻,也叫城(cheng)垣(yuan),是(shi)城(cheng)防的主體。
女墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(指城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)上凹凸(tu)的短墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang))、城(cheng)堞(包圍月城(cheng)的城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),也叫(jiao)城(cheng)垛)組(zu)成(cheng)。
城(cheng)壕,也叫護城(cheng)河,環(huan)繞城(cheng)外的(de)水體。
月城(cheng)(cheng),也叫甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)外用以屏蔽(bi)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)的(de)小(xiao)城(cheng)(cheng),月城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)門(men)稱城(cheng)(cheng)堙(yin)。
城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),建于城(cheng)(cheng)門或城(cheng)(cheng)墻之上(shang)的樓(lou)。
城(cheng)闕,城(cheng)門兩邊(bian)的(de)望樓(lou)。
城(cheng)廂,指城(cheng)內和城(cheng)門(men)外附近。
城根(gen),靠(kao)近城墻的地(di)方。
城(cheng)(cheng)關,城(cheng)(cheng)門外靠(kao)近(jin)城(cheng)(cheng)門的(de)一帶地區。
吊橋,架在城壕上方便行路的木制斜拉橋。
現(xian)衢(qu)州府(fu)城還保留了部分(fen)城墻和(he)除北門(men)(men)(men)之外的其他(ta)城門(men)(men)(men),以及周邊的護城河。東門(men)(men)(men),又名(ming)迎和(he)門(men)(men)(men)、紫金(jin)門(men)(men)(men),門(men)(men)(men)外有青龍碼頭(tou),新任官員都從此(ci)入城,門(men)(men)(men)外為(wei)七里(li)街(jie),大概因門(men)(men)(men)外有一送別(bie)亭(ting)名(ming)七里(li)亭(ting)之故。為(wei)市區和(he)機場的分(fen)界線(xian)。
小南門,俗稱通仙門,又名清(qing)輝門、前湖門,據傳住在(zai)仙霞嶺、爛(lan)(lan)柯山(shan)的(de)神仙在(zai)此(ci)出入(ru)頻繁(fan)。而且(qie)在(zai)小南門附(fu)近有位惡(e)婦(fu)壞(huai)事干盡,神仙怕(pa)她(ta),所以(yi)三(san)天(tian)兩頭來(lai)治(zhi)她(ta)。原門上有魁星(xing)閣為衢州(zhou)八閣之一,傳說天(tian)氣晴朗的(de)時候在(zai)城(cheng)樓(lou)上能看見爛(lan)(lan)柯山(shan),門外(wai)有魁星(xing)街。
大南門,也叫禮(li)(li)賢(xian)門、光(guang)遠門,此(ci)門名(ming)得禮(li)(li)賢(xian),原(yuan)因有二,一說衢州建(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)官員(yuan)尉遲敬德(de),曾(ceng)在(zai)此(ci)門外(wai)迎接恩師,意為禮(li)(li)賢(xian)下士;又一說江山縣(xian)曾(ceng)經稱(cheng)作禮(li)(li)賢(xian)縣(xian),門通(tong)禮(li)(li)賢(xian)故得名(ming)。城(cheng)(cheng)門附近有空曠土地(di)(di)俗(su)稱(cheng)花街頭,是(shi)因十五鬧元(yuan)宵的隊伍都集中于此(ci),并(bing)由此(ci)地(di)(di)進城(cheng)(cheng)。門外(wai)有街名(ming)曰(yue)禮(li)(li)賢(xian)街。
小西(xi)門(men)(men),又叫通廣門(men)(men),古時城門(men)(men)外埠頭眾多,船家云集,走水(shui)路(lu)可(ke)達蘇杭,經大運河更是可(ke)通全國(guo)。由(you)于(yu)保護不善,解放(fang)后,門(men)(men)拱(gong)坍塌,現有(you)城墻尚(shang)保存(cun)。門(men)(men)外南側(ce)有(you)衢州三(san)塔之一的銅塔,為鑄兵器,毀于(yu)太平(ping)天國(guo)時期。
大西(xi)門(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱水(shui)(shui)(shui)亭(ting)門(men)(men)、朝京門(men)(men),水(shui)(shui)(shui)亭(ting)為門(men)(men)內(nei)街(jie)名,興許是(shi)城門(men)(men)外的(de)卷(juan)雪(xue)亭(ting),常被水(shui)(shui)(shui)漫,故作水(shui)(shui)(shui)亭(ting)。在這一區域是(shi)城中水(shui)(shui)(shui)患的(de)又(you)(you)一重地,古有(you)(you)“水(shui)(shui)(shui)亭(ting)街(jie),街(jie)停(ting)水(shui)(shui)(shui),水(shui)(shui)(shui)亭(ting)街(jie)上漲大水(shui)(shui)(shui)”的(de)句子。城門(men)(men)上有(you)(you)樓(lou)名曰碧春樓(lou),又(you)(you)名西(xi)勝樓(lou),是(shi)衢(qu)州九樓(lou)之(zhi)一。門(men)(men)內(nei)天皇(huang)巷(xiang)有(you)(you)衢(qu)州三塔之(zhi)一的(de)天皇(huang)塔,由于年(nian)久失修,已于五十年(nian)代中期拆除。
西安門(men),為(wei)明朝中后期才(cai)開(kai)的新門(men),位于城(cheng)區西北(bei)角(jiao),門(men)面較小,門(men)內有(you)文昌閣為(wei)衢州八閣之(zhi)一(yi),門(men)外是烈婦祠,為(wei)表貞潔(jie)烈女(nv)而建。附(fu)近還有(you)衢州三塔之(zhi)一(yi)的鐵塔。
北(bei)門(men),又名拱辰門(men)、浮石門(men),門(men)外(wai)有拱辰橋(北(bei)門(men)橋),古(gu)時(shi)外(wai)面為浮石街,此(ci)門(men)已于五十年(nian)代時(shi)拆除。
其下方的小河(he)為(wei)斗潭的東出水口(kou)。城(cheng)墻內原(yuan)為(wei)衢州名勝菱湖(hu)所在(zai)地,湖(hu)域面積逾千畝(mu),攬得一方盛景(jing)。湖(hu)南岸就(jiu)是孔廟,附近有止(zhi)馬灣(wan),為(wei)水體的一部分。清軍(jun)政(zheng)大臣(chen)左宗棠任浙江巡撫期間,平(ping)復太(tai)平(ping)天國后便在(zai)城(cheng)中(zhong)大興農業,將菱湖(hu)開渠出水,填(tian)湖(hu)為(wei)田。
新城門,是民國(guo)初期(qi)為了方便交通,把上(shang)(shang)街(jie)頭上(shang)(shang)的城墻扒去(qu),并拆除了附近(jin)攔路(lu)的土地祠(ci),那(nei)打通的城墻部分(fen)(fen)就(jiu)叫(jiao)做新城門。從此上(shang)(shang)下(xia)街(jie)被打通,成了衢州(zhou)主干(gan)道,解放后還是320國(guo)道的一部分(fen)(fen)。
鐵衢門,早些年(nian)在環城東路拐角的地方(fang)還能(neng)看到,那是90年(nian)代建(jian)的景(jing)觀門,舊城改造,府山擴建(jian)后(hou)就拆除了。
南(nan)湖,這是(shi)衢州人熟悉(xi)的一條護城河(he)(he)了,河(he)(he)上原有大(da)南(nan)門、小南(nan)門兩座吊橋,現已經都改成鋼(gang)精水泥橋了。
斗(dou)潭(tan)(tan),是北面(mian)的(de)護城河(he),保存較好,所謂斗(dou)潭(tan)(tan)就是說潭(tan)(tan)大如斗(dou),是指斗(dou)潭(tan)(tan)小的(de)原因,其實斗(dou)潭(tan)(tan)不小,全長750米(mi)(mi),平均寬度也在25米(mi)(mi)以(yi)上。
西(xi)(xi)溪(xi)衢江,是(shi)衢州西(xi)(xi)面天(tian)然的屏(ping)障,故名西(xi)(xi)溪(xi)、濲水、信安江等。也衢州水運的主要商(shang)業航道。寬可大(da)二三百米(mi)。
東濠(hao),濠(hao)為護城河,原先的(de)水運(yun)河流青(qing)龍(long)碼頭已經不在了,剩下的(de)是被分割成(cheng)的(de)一塊塊魚塘,還(huan)有待(dai)疏浚。