府(fu)治(zhi)在(zai)(zai)今(jin)(jin)府(fu)山之上,縣(xian)(xian)(xian)治(zhi)在(zai)(zai)今(jin)(jin)十字街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)頭之右,故城中有縣(xian)(xian)(xian)西街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie),南街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)(原名(ming)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)南街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)或南市(shi)大街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)),縣(xian)(xian)(xian)后街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)等(deng)地(di)名(ming),都是(shi)以縣(xian)(xian)(xian)治(zhi)方(fang)位定名(ming)。府(fu)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)皆有治(zhi)學(xue),縣(xian)(xian)(xian)學(xue)在(zai)(zai)縣(xian)(xian)(xian)學(xue)街(jie)(jie)(jie)(jie)黌序巷,古有鹿鳴書院(yuan);府(fu)學(xue)在(zai)(zai)府(fu)山西麓,故地(di)叫府(fu)學(xue)里,建有清蓮(lian)書院(yuan)(又名(ming)正誼書院(yuan))。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池始建于(yu)漢(han)代(dai)(東(dong)漢(han)土墻(qiang)(qiang)為屯兵之用(yong),由(you)當(dang)時駐軍鄭平(ping)等人首(shou)建,而非府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)),現存(cun)(cun)的府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以(yi)唐代(dai)為基(ji)礎,明(ming)代(dai)重(zhong)修(xiu)(xiu)。原有(you)六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men):東(dong)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“迎(ying)和門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));南(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“禮賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)光遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“航遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大西門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)水亭(ting)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)朝京門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));北(bei)(bei)(bei)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“永(yong)清(qing)(qing)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)(bei)(bei)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)浮石門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)拱宸(chen)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));東(dong)南(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“清(qing)(qing)輝門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)前(qian)湖門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)魁(kui)星門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西南(nan)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“和平(ping)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今(jin)(jin)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)西門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)埭堰門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通廣門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men))。六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之上(shang)均建樓,各(ge)為兩(liang)層歇山(shan),各(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)形制以(yi)水亭(ting)為例:城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)墻(qiang)(qiang)高7.3米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),厚12.37米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),兩(liang)側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)殘(can)長各(ge)為30米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)、20米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi);拱券高5.55米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),寬4.88米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),墻(qiang)(qiang)基(ji)用(yong)8層條石錯縫平(ping)砌(qi),高1.5米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),上(shang)用(yong)磚(zhuan)平(ping)砌(qi)1.4米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)處起券,券頂(ding)橫砌(qi)。在迎(ying)和、清(qing)(qing)輝、禮賢、永(yong)清(qing)(qing)四門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外包筑月城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。明(ming)代(dai)又(you)在西北(bei)(bei)(bei)角(jiao)開“西安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”。府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)現存(cun)(cun)西安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大西門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、東(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)及小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)西門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之半,除(chu)大西門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)于(yu)上(shang)世紀末重(zhong)新修(xiu)(xiu)繕外,各(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓已圮(pi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)殘(can)存(cun)(cun)的約有(you)2000米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),殘(can)高3—5米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外護(hu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河基(ji)本保(bao)存(cun)(cun),南(nan)湖、斗潭保(bao)存(cun)(cun)較(jiao)好,東(dong)側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河則有(you)待于(yu)疏(shu)浚。1989年12月公(gong)布為省級(ji)重(zhong)點文(wen)物保(bao)護(hu)單位。
2006年6月,衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)正式被國(guo)務院(yuan)核(he)定公布為第六(liu)批(pi)全國(guo)重(zhong)點文物(wu)保(bao)護(hu)單(dan)位(wei),衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)是我國(guo)東南重(zhong)鎮的實物(wu)依(yi)據,是研究府(fu)城(cheng)一(yi)級城(cheng)池格局、規模等方面的實物(wu)標本。此外,衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)在(zai)選址(zhi)和城(cheng)臺(tai)形(xing)制等方面皆(jie)有獨到之處(chu),具有很高的歷史、藝術、科學價值。
城(cheng)池是(shi)中國特有的人(ren)文(wen)景觀,是(shi)城(cheng)市的縮(suo)影。衢州(zhou)是(shi)一座歷史(shi)文(wen)化(hua)名城(cheng),這座城(cheng)市有著深厚的文(wen)化(hua)底蘊(yun),城(cheng)墻(qiang)和城(cheng)河(he)就(jiu)是(shi)歷史(shi)的見證,文(wen)化(hua)的背景。
衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)歷史悠(you)久(jiu),明(ming)(ming)弘治《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)志》云:“今(jin)龜峰之城(cheng)(cheng)亦不知其初建(jian)。州(zhou)人(ren)相傳,先址土(tu)墻(qiang)而已。”衢(qu)州(zhou)之城(cheng)(cheng)建(jian)于(yu)何(he)時(shi),史志均無明(ming)(ming)確的(de)記(ji)載,尚(shang)難(nan)以(yi)確定,但比較統一的(de)說(shuo)法是(shi)唐以(yi)后衢(qu)州(zhou)才正式建(jian)筑(zhu)了磚石城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。明(ming)(ming)嘉靖《衢(qu)州(zhou)府(fu)志》云:“唐武德四(si)(si)年(621)置衢(qu)州(zhou)建(jian)郡(jun)治”。有郭(guo)必有城(cheng)(cheng),因為自古以(yi)來城(cheng)(cheng)郭(guo)是(shi)相依的(de)。唐崔耿《女樓(lou)記(ji)》云:“衢(qu)之城(cheng)(cheng)成于(yu)龜峰崢嶸嶺上”,說(shuo)得亦十(shi)分(fen)肯定。所以(yi)可以(yi)斷定,衢(qu)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)的(de)初建(jian),其時(shi)當在(zai)唐武德四(si)(si)年建(jian)郡(jun)治之后;其址當以(yi)龜峰、崢嶸嶺為中心(xin)。自此以(yi)后,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)歷經修筑(zhu)、擴展,形成保留至今(jin)的(de)古城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。
衢(qu)州(zhou)地處浙西,交通(tong)便利(li),自古有(you)四(si)省(sheng)通(tong)衢(qu)之(zhi)美(mei)名,此(ci)地能控鄱陽(yang)之(zhi)肘腋(ye),扼甌閩之(zhi)咽喉,連宣徽之(zhi)聲勢,集百越之(zhi)精華。這里是圍棋仙境、軍事(shi)要(yao)塞(sai)、文化之(zhi)邦,是錢(qian)塘江上游的璀(cui)璨明珠。夏商為“揚(yang)州(zhou)之(zhi)域”,春秋歸(gui)越,戰(zhan)國(guo)歸(gui)楚,秦(qin)屬(shu)會稽(ji),漢屬(shu)東陽(yang),三國(guo)從(cong)吳,建(jian)制于唐,興于宋,昌于明,盛(sheng)于清。前后近兩千年的發展史。
唐武(wu)德(de)四年(621)尉(yu)遲(chi)敬德(de)奉高(gao)宗之命分婺州(今金(jin)華)置(zhi)衢(qu)(qu)州,在衢(qu)(qu)江畔(pan)建設城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池,初時城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)中有起伏(fu)小丘數座(zuo),居(ju)高(gao)臨下(xia),適于(yu)防守(shou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外還有大片土地(di),宜作良田,供城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)糧草。始建城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)時,周(zhou)邊(bian)居(ju)民皆(jie)遷(qian)入(ru)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)圈,并(bing)協(xie)作建城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。當時軍(jun)民合力日出而作,日落而息,竭力造(zao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。
宋(song)宣和三年(1121)郡守高至臨(lin),始在六門之上建設城樓,挖(wa)城內河(he),并開鑿(zao)城壕,引烏(wu)溪江之水環之,自此衢州便有(you)了護城河(he),水環北、東、南三面皆通衢江,因而船只可入航城池,進水門洞,到達城中(zhong)各處,這(zhe)些(xie)使(shi)衢州城防進一步完善(shan)。據清康熙(xi)《西安縣志》載(zai):“城高一丈(zhang)六尺五(wu)寸,廣一丈(zhang)一尺,周回四千(qian)五(wu)十(shi)步。”
元(yuan)至正十五年監郡(jun)伯顏忽都,沿城(cheng)(cheng)舊址,修復年久(jiu)殘(can)敗的城(cheng)(cheng)墻,共修五百余步,并在北門(men)(men)、東門(men)(men)、大南(nan)門(men)(men)和小南(nan)門(men)(men)外包(bao)以月城(cheng)(cheng)。以六門(men)(men)之上(shang)再建(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),使(shi)六門(men)(men)煥然一(yi)新。這(zhe)次(ci)建(jian)設(she)使(shi)府城(cheng)(cheng)有(you)了完備的城(cheng)(cheng)和池。
明天順年(nian)間(jian)(1457-1464),曾短時(shi)間(jian)內封過(guo)朝京門(men)(水亭(ting)門(men)),并在城(cheng)西(xi)北角文昌閣開挖西(xi)安門(men),自(zi)此衢州六門(men)就有(you)了(le)第七個門(men),此后明清時(shi)期又(you)修葺城(cheng)垣(yuan)百余次(ci),由此奠定了(le)衢州的基礎(chu)。
衢州府城(cheng)一直(zhi)是保護完好的(de)(de)城(cheng)防,民(min)國五年(1916)以前還曾對城(cheng)墻進行修葺,而第(di)一次的(de)(de)破壞就是在(zai)解放前的(de)(de)民(min)國時代,當時的(de)(de)縣長叫王超凡拓寬上(shang)下(xia)街,新(xin)城(cheng)門就是在(zai)他(ta)手上(shang)打(da)開(kai)的(de)(de)。
衢州府城從那以后就進入了20世(shi)紀的時代變遷,之后由于五(wu)六(liu)十年(nian)代大(da)搞農業,大(da)興土木就大(da)規模的遭到了破(po)壞。
城(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)核心是城(cheng)(cheng)隍(huang)和城(cheng)(cheng)郭,一個完整的城(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)必然少(shao)不了由城(cheng)(cheng)墻、城(cheng)(cheng)壕、月城(cheng)(cheng)、城(cheng)(cheng)門、城(cheng)(cheng)樓等部(bu)分。
城(cheng)隍,道教中(zhong)負(fu)責(ze)城(cheng)池的地方神,也指干涸的城(cheng)壕(hao)。
城郭(guo),城指內(nei)城墻,外城墻為(wei)郭(guo)。
城(cheng)墻,也叫城(cheng)垣(yuan)(yuan),是(shi)城(cheng)防(fang)的主體。
女墻(指城墻上(shang)凹(ao)凸的短墻)、城堞(die)(包圍月城的城墻,也叫城垛(duo))組(zu)成。
城壕,也叫護城河,環繞城外的(de)水體。
月(yue)城(cheng),也叫甕城(cheng),城(cheng)門(men)外用以屏蔽城(cheng)門(men)的(de)小城(cheng),月(yue)城(cheng)的(de)門(men)稱(cheng)城(cheng)堙。
城(cheng)(cheng)樓,建于城(cheng)(cheng)門或城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)之上的樓。
城闕,城門兩(liang)邊的(de)望樓。
城(cheng)廂,指城(cheng)內和城(cheng)門外附(fu)近(jin)。
城根(gen),靠(kao)近城墻的地(di)方(fang)。
城(cheng)(cheng)關,城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)外靠近城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)的(de)一帶地區。
吊(diao)橋,架在城(cheng)壕上方(fang)便行路的(de)木制斜拉(la)橋。
現(xian)衢州府(fu)城還保留了部分(fen)城墻和除北門(men)之(zhi)(zhi)外(wai)(wai)的其他城門(men),以及周邊的護城河(he)。東門(men),又名迎和門(men)、紫(zi)金門(men),門(men)外(wai)(wai)有青龍碼頭(tou),新任官員都從此入城,門(men)外(wai)(wai)為(wei)七(qi)里(li)街,大概因門(men)外(wai)(wai)有一送別亭(ting)名七(qi)里(li)亭(ting)之(zhi)(zhi)故(gu)。為(wei)市區和機場(chang)的分(fen)界(jie)線。
小南門,俗(su)稱(cheng)通(tong)仙(xian)門,又名清輝門、前湖(hu)門,據傳住(zhu)在(zai)仙(xian)霞嶺、爛(lan)柯山的神仙(xian)在(zai)此出入頻繁。而且(qie)在(zai)小南門附近有(you)位惡婦壞事干盡,神仙(xian)怕她,所(suo)以三天兩(liang)頭(tou)來治她。原門上有(you)魁星閣為衢州八閣之一,傳說天氣晴(qing)朗的時候(hou)在(zai)城樓上能看見爛(lan)柯山,門外有(you)魁星街。
大南門(men),也叫禮賢(xian)(xian)門(men)、光遠(yuan)門(men),此門(men)名得(de)禮賢(xian)(xian),原因有(you)二(er),一說(shuo)(shuo)衢州建城官員(yuan)尉遲敬德,曾在此門(men)外迎接恩師,意為(wei)禮賢(xian)(xian)下士;又一說(shuo)(shuo)江山(shan)縣(xian)曾經稱(cheng)作禮賢(xian)(xian)縣(xian),門(men)通禮賢(xian)(xian)故得(de)名。城門(men)附近(jin)有(you)空曠土地(di)俗稱(cheng)花街(jie)頭(tou),是因十五鬧元宵(xiao)的隊伍(wu)都集中于(yu)此,并由此地(di)進(jin)城。門(men)外有(you)街(jie)名曰禮賢(xian)(xian)街(jie)。
小西門(men)(men),又叫通(tong)廣門(men)(men),古時城門(men)(men)外埠(bu)頭眾(zhong)多,船家云集,走水(shui)路(lu)可達蘇(su)杭,經(jing)大運河更是(shi)可通(tong)全國(guo)。由(you)于保護不善(shan),解放后,門(men)(men)拱坍(tan)塌(ta),現有(you)城墻尚保存。門(men)(men)外南側(ce)有(you)衢州三塔之一(yi)的銅塔,為鑄兵器,毀于太平天國(guo)時期。
大西門(men)(men),又(you)(you)稱水亭(ting)門(men)(men)、朝(chao)京門(men)(men),水亭(ting)為(wei)門(men)(men)內街(jie)(jie)名,興(xing)許是(shi)城門(men)(men)外的卷雪亭(ting),常被(bei)水漫,故(gu)作(zuo)水亭(ting)。在這一區域是(shi)城中(zhong)水患的又(you)(you)一重地,古有(you)“水亭(ting)街(jie)(jie),街(jie)(jie)停(ting)水,水亭(ting)街(jie)(jie)上漲(zhang)大水”的句子。城門(men)(men)上有(you)樓(lou)(lou)名曰碧春樓(lou)(lou),又(you)(you)名西勝樓(lou)(lou),是(shi)衢州(zhou)九樓(lou)(lou)之一。門(men)(men)內天皇巷有(you)衢州(zhou)三塔(ta)之一的天皇塔(ta),由于年(nian)久失修,已(yi)于五十(shi)年(nian)代中(zhong)期拆(chai)除。
西安門(men)(men),為(wei)(wei)明朝中后期(qi)才開的(de)新門(men)(men),位(wei)于城區西北角(jiao),門(men)(men)面較小,門(men)(men)內(nei)有文昌閣(ge)為(wei)(wei)衢州八閣(ge)之一,門(men)(men)外是烈(lie)婦祠,為(wei)(wei)表貞潔烈(lie)女而建。附近還有衢州三塔之一的(de)鐵塔。
北門(men)(men),又名(ming)拱辰門(men)(men)、浮石門(men)(men),門(men)(men)外有(you)拱辰橋(qiao)(北門(men)(men)橋(qiao)),古時外面為(wei)浮石街(jie),此門(men)(men)已于五十年代時拆除。
其(qi)下方的(de)小(xiao)河為(wei)斗(dou)潭的(de)東出水(shui)口。城墻內原(yuan)為(wei)衢州名勝菱湖(hu)(hu)所在地,湖(hu)(hu)域面(mian)積逾千畝(mu),攬得一(yi)方盛景(jing)。湖(hu)(hu)南岸就(jiu)是孔廟,附(fu)近有(you)止馬灣,為(wei)水(shui)體的(de)一(yi)部分。清軍政大臣左宗棠(tang)任浙(zhe)江巡撫期(qi)間,平(ping)復太平(ping)天國后便在城中大興(xing)農業,將菱湖(hu)(hu)開渠出水(shui),填湖(hu)(hu)為(wei)田(tian)。
新(xin)城(cheng)門(men)(men),是民(min)國初期(qi)為了方便交通,把上街(jie)頭(tou)上的城(cheng)墻扒去,并拆(chai)除(chu)了附近攔路的土地祠,那(nei)打(da)(da)通的城(cheng)墻部分就叫做新(xin)城(cheng)門(men)(men)。從此上下街(jie)被打(da)(da)通,成了衢州主干道(dao)(dao),解放(fang)后還(huan)是320國道(dao)(dao)的一部分。
鐵(tie)衢門,早些年在(zai)環城(cheng)東路拐角的地方還能看到,那是90年代(dai)建的景觀門,舊城(cheng)改(gai)造(zao),府山擴建后就拆除了。
南湖,這是衢(qu)州人熟(shu)悉的(de)一條護城河(he)了,河(he)上原有大南門(men)、小南門(men)兩(liang)座(zuo)吊橋,現已經都改成鋼精水泥橋了。
斗潭,是(shi)北面的護城河,保存較好,所謂斗潭就是(shi)說潭大如斗,是(shi)指(zhi)斗潭小的原因,其(qi)實(shi)斗潭不小,全長750米,平均寬度也在25米以(yi)上。
西溪衢(qu)江,是(shi)衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)西面天然的(de)(de)屏障,故名西溪、濲水(shui)、信(xin)安江等(deng)。也衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)水(shui)運的(de)(de)主要商業航道。寬可(ke)大(da)二(er)三百米(mi)。
東濠(hao),濠(hao)為護城(cheng)河,原先(xian)的(de)水運河流青龍碼(ma)頭已經不在(zai)了,剩下的(de)是被分割成的(de)一塊塊魚(yu)塘,還(huan)有待(dai)疏(shu)浚。