府(fu)治在今(jin)府(fu)山之上(shang),縣治在今(jin)十(shi)字街頭之右,故城中有縣西街,南(nan)街(原名縣南(nan)街或南(nan)市(shi)大街),縣后街等地名,都是以(yi)縣治方位定名。府(fu)縣皆有治學,縣學在縣學街黌序巷(xiang),古有鹿(lu)鳴書(shu)院;府(fu)學在府(fu)山西麓,故地叫府(fu)學里,建有清(qing)蓮書(shu)院(又名正(zheng)誼書(shu)院)。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池始(shi)建(jian)于(yu)(yu)漢(han)代(dai)(東(dong)(dong)(dong)漢(han)土墻為屯(tun)兵之用(yong)(yong)(yong),由當時(shi)駐軍鄭(zheng)平(ping)等(deng)人首建(jian),而非府城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)),現存的(de)(de)府城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)以唐代(dai)為基(ji)礎,明(ming)代(dai)重(zhong)修(xiu)。原有(you)六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men):東(dong)(dong)(dong)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“迎和(he)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));南稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“禮(li)賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大(da)(da)(da)南門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通(tong)遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)光遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“航(hang)遠門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)大(da)(da)(da)西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)水亭門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)朝京門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));北稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“永清門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)北門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)浮石門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)拱宸門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));東(dong)(dong)(dong)南稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“清輝門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)南門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)前湖門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)魁(kui)星門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men));西(xi)南稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“和(he)平(ping)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”(今稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)小(xiao)西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),俗(su)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)埭堰門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men),又(you)稱(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)通(tong)廣(guang)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men))。六門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之上(shang)均建(jian)樓,各(ge)為兩層歇山(shan),各(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)形制以水亭為例:城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)墻高(gao)(gao)7.3米(mi),厚12.37米(mi),兩側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻殘(can)長(chang)各(ge)為30米(mi)、20米(mi);拱券高(gao)(gao)5.55米(mi),寬4.88米(mi),墻基(ji)用(yong)(yong)(yong)8層條石錯縫平(ping)砌(qi),高(gao)(gao)1.5米(mi),上(shang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)磚平(ping)砌(qi)1.4米(mi)處起券,券頂橫砌(qi)。在迎和(he)、清輝、禮(li)賢、永清四門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)外包(bao)筑月城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。明(ming)代(dai)又(you)在西(xi)北角(jiao)開“西(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)”。府城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)現存西(xi)安(an)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大(da)(da)(da)西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、大(da)(da)(da)南門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、小(xiao)南門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)、東(dong)(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)及小(xiao)西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)之半,除大(da)(da)(da)西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)于(yu)(yu)上(shang)世紀末重(zhong)新(xin)修(xiu)繕(shan)外,各(ge)門(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)(men)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓已圮。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻殘(can)存的(de)(de)約有(you)2000米(mi),殘(can)高(gao)(gao)3—5米(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外護(hu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河(he)基(ji)本(ben)保(bao)存,南湖、斗潭保(bao)存較(jiao)好,東(dong)(dong)(dong)側城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河(he)則(ze)有(you)待(dai)于(yu)(yu)疏浚。1989年12月公布為省級重(zhong)點文物保(bao)護(hu)單位(wei)。
2006年6月,衢(qu)州府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)正(zheng)式被國(guo)務院(yuan)核定公布為(wei)第六批全(quan)國(guo)重(zhong)點文物(wu)保護(hu)單位,衢(qu)州府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)我國(guo)東(dong)南重(zhong)鎮的(de)實(shi)物(wu)依據,是(shi)研(yan)究府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)級城(cheng)(cheng)池格局、規(gui)模等方(fang)面(mian)的(de)實(shi)物(wu)標本。此(ci)外,衢(qu)州府(fu)(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)在選址和(he)城(cheng)(cheng)臺形制(zhi)等方(fang)面(mian)皆有獨到之(zhi)處(chu),具有很高的(de)歷史、藝(yi)術(shu)、科(ke)學價值。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池是中國特有的人文景觀,是城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市(shi)的縮影(ying)。衢州是一座歷史文化名(ming)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這座城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市(shi)有著深厚(hou)的文化底蘊,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻和城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河就(jiu)是歷史的見(jian)證,文化的背景。
衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)歷(li)(li)史悠(you)久,明弘(hong)治《衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)志》云(yun)(yun):“今龜峰之城(cheng)(cheng)亦(yi)不知其初建。州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)人相傳,先址土墻(qiang)(qiang)而已。”衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)之城(cheng)(cheng)建于(yu)(yu)何時,史志均無明確的記載,尚難以確定,但(dan)比較統一的說法是(shi)唐(tang)(tang)以后衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)才正式建筑(zhu)了磚石城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)。明嘉靖(jing)《衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)府(fu)志》云(yun)(yun):“唐(tang)(tang)武德四(si)年(621)置衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)建郡治”。有郭必(bi)有城(cheng)(cheng),因為(wei)自(zi)古以來(lai)城(cheng)(cheng)郭是(shi)相依的。唐(tang)(tang)崔耿(geng)《女(nv)樓記》云(yun)(yun):“衢(qu)之城(cheng)(cheng)成于(yu)(yu)龜峰崢(zheng)嶸(rong)嶺(ling)上”,說得亦(yi)十(shi)分肯(ken)定。所(suo)以可以斷(duan)定,衢(qu)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)的初建,其時當在唐(tang)(tang)武德四(si)年建郡治之后;其址當以龜峰、崢(zheng)嶸(rong)嶺(ling)為(wei)中心(xin)。自(zi)此(ci)以后,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)歷(li)(li)經修筑(zhu)、擴(kuo)展,形成保留至今的古城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)。
衢州地處(chu)浙西,交(jiao)通(tong)便利,自古有四(si)省通(tong)衢之(zhi)美名,此地能控鄱陽(yang)之(zhi)肘腋,扼甌閩之(zhi)咽喉,連宣徽之(zhi)聲勢,集百越之(zhi)精(jing)華。這里(li)是圍棋仙境、軍事(shi)要塞、文(wen)化之(zhi)邦,是錢(qian)塘江(jiang)上游的(de)璀(cui)璨(can)明(ming)(ming)珠(zhu)。夏商(shang)為“揚(yang)州之(zhi)域”,春秋歸越,戰(zhan)國歸楚(chu),秦屬會稽,漢屬東陽(yang),三(san)國從吳,建制于(yu)唐(tang),興于(yu)宋,昌于(yu)明(ming)(ming),盛于(yu)清。前后(hou)近兩千年(nian)的(de)發展史(shi)。
唐武德四年(621)尉(yu)遲(chi)敬(jing)德奉高宗之命分婺州(今(jin)金華)置衢(qu)州,在衢(qu)江畔建設(she)城(cheng)池,初時城(cheng)中(zhong)有起伏(fu)小(xiao)丘數座,居高臨下,適于防(fang)守(shou),城(cheng)外(wai)還有大片土地,宜作良田,供城(cheng)糧(liang)草。始建城(cheng)時,周邊居民皆遷入城(cheng)圈,并協作建城(cheng)。當時軍民合力日出而作,日落而息,竭力造城(cheng)。
宋宣和三年(nian)(1121)郡(jun)守高至(zhi)臨,始在六門(men)之上建設城樓(lou),挖城內河,并開鑿城壕,引烏溪江之水環(huan)(huan)之,自此(ci)衢州便有了護城河,水環(huan)(huan)北(bei)、東、南三面皆通衢江,因而船只(zhi)可入航城池,進水門(men)洞,到達城中各處,這些使(shi)衢州城防進一步完善(shan)。據清康熙《西安(an)縣(xian)志》載:“城高一丈六尺五寸,廣一丈一尺,周回(hui)四千五十步。”
元至正十五年(nian)監郡伯顏忽都,沿城(cheng)(cheng)舊址,修復(fu)年(nian)久(jiu)殘敗的城(cheng)(cheng)墻,共修五百余步(bu),并(bing)在北(bei)門(men)、東門(men)、大(da)南(nan)門(men)和小(xiao)南(nan)門(men)外(wai)包以月城(cheng)(cheng)。以六門(men)之上再建城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),使六門(men)煥然一新。這次建設使府(fu)城(cheng)(cheng)有了(le)完(wan)備(bei)的城(cheng)(cheng)和池。
明天順年間(jian)(1457-1464),曾短時(shi)間(jian)內封過朝(chao)京門(水(shui)亭門),并在城西北(bei)角文昌(chang)閣(ge)開挖西安門,自(zi)此衢州(zhou)六門就有了(le)第(di)七個門,此后明清時(shi)期又(you)修葺城垣(yuan)百余次(ci),由此奠定了(le)衢州(zhou)的基礎。
衢州府城(cheng)一直是(shi)保護完好的(de)城(cheng)防,民國(guo)五年(nian)(1916)以前還曾對城(cheng)墻進行修葺,而第一次的(de)破(po)壞就是(shi)在解放(fang)前的(de)民國(guo)時(shi)代(dai),當時(shi)的(de)縣長叫(jiao)王超凡拓寬(kuan)上下(xia)街,新城(cheng)門就是(shi)在他手上打開(kai)的(de)。
衢州府城(cheng)從那以后就進入了20世紀的(de)時代(dai)變(bian)遷(qian),之后由于五六十年代(dai)大搞農(nong)業(ye),大興土木就大規模的(de)遭到了破(po)壞。
城(cheng)(cheng)池核心(xin)是城(cheng)(cheng)隍和城(cheng)(cheng)郭,一個完整(zheng)的城(cheng)(cheng)池必然(ran)少不了(le)由城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)、城(cheng)(cheng)壕(hao)、月城(cheng)(cheng)、城(cheng)(cheng)門、城(cheng)(cheng)樓等(deng)部分。
城(cheng)隍,道教中負責城(cheng)池的地方神,也指干(gan)涸的城(cheng)壕。
城(cheng)郭,城(cheng)指(zhi)內城(cheng)墻,外城(cheng)墻為郭。
城(cheng)墻(qiang),也叫(jiao)城(cheng)垣(yuan),是(shi)城(cheng)防的主體。
女墻(qiang)(qiang)(指城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)上凹凸的短墻(qiang)(qiang))、城(cheng)堞(包圍月城(cheng)的城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang),也叫城(cheng)垛)組成。
城壕,也(ye)叫護(hu)城河,環繞城外的水體。
月(yue)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),也叫甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門外用(yong)以屏(ping)蔽(bi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門的小城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),月(yue)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的門稱城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)堙。
城(cheng)樓,建于(yu)城(cheng)門或城(cheng)墻之上(shang)的樓。
城(cheng)(cheng)闕,城(cheng)(cheng)門兩邊的望(wang)樓。
城(cheng)廂,指城(cheng)內和城(cheng)門(men)外附近。
城(cheng)根,靠近(jin)城(cheng)墻的地方(fang)。
城關,城門外靠(kao)近城門的一帶地區。
吊橋,架在城(cheng)壕上方便行路的木制斜拉橋。
現衢州府(fu)城(cheng)還保留了部分城(cheng)墻(qiang)和除(chu)北門(men)(men)之(zhi)外的其(qi)他(ta)城(cheng)門(men)(men),以及(ji)周邊的護城(cheng)河。東門(men)(men),又名(ming)迎和門(men)(men)、紫金(jin)門(men)(men),門(men)(men)外有(you)青(qing)龍碼(ma)頭,新任官員都(dou)從(cong)此入城(cheng),門(men)(men)外為七里街(jie),大概因門(men)(men)外有(you)一送別亭名(ming)七里亭之(zhi)故。為市區和機(ji)場的分界線。
小(xiao)南門(men)(men),俗稱通仙(xian)門(men)(men),又名清輝門(men)(men)、前湖門(men)(men),據傳住在(zai)仙(xian)霞嶺、爛(lan)柯(ke)(ke)山的(de)神仙(xian)在(zai)此出入頻繁。而且在(zai)小(xiao)南門(men)(men)附近有(you)(you)位惡婦壞事干盡,神仙(xian)怕她,所以三(san)天兩(liang)頭來(lai)治她。原門(men)(men)上(shang)有(you)(you)魁星閣為衢州(zhou)八閣之一,傳說天氣(qi)晴朗(lang)的(de)時(shi)候在(zai)城樓上(shang)能看見爛(lan)柯(ke)(ke)山,門(men)(men)外有(you)(you)魁星街。
大(da)南門(men)(men)(men)(men),也叫禮(li)賢門(men)(men)(men)(men)、光(guang)遠門(men)(men)(men)(men),此(ci)(ci)門(men)(men)(men)(men)名得(de)禮(li)賢,原因(yin)有(you)二,一說衢州建(jian)城官員(yuan)尉遲敬德,曾在此(ci)(ci)門(men)(men)(men)(men)外迎(ying)接恩師(shi),意為禮(li)賢下士;又一說江山(shan)縣(xian)曾經稱作禮(li)賢縣(xian),門(men)(men)(men)(men)通(tong)禮(li)賢故(gu)得(de)名。城門(men)(men)(men)(men)附近有(you)空曠土(tu)地俗稱花街頭,是(shi)因(yin)十五(wu)鬧元(yuan)宵的隊伍都集中于(yu)此(ci)(ci),并由(you)此(ci)(ci)地進城。門(men)(men)(men)(men)外有(you)街名曰禮(li)賢街。
小西門(men),又叫(jiao)通(tong)廣門(men),古(gu)時(shi)(shi)城(cheng)門(men)外埠頭(tou)眾多(duo),船家(jia)云集,走水路可(ke)達蘇杭,經大運河更是(shi)可(ke)通(tong)全國(guo)。由(you)于(yu)保(bao)護不(bu)善,解放后,門(men)拱坍塌,現(xian)有(you)城(cheng)墻尚保(bao)存(cun)。門(men)外南側有(you)衢州三塔(ta)之(zhi)一的(de)銅塔(ta),為鑄(zhu)兵器,毀(hui)于(yu)太平(ping)天國(guo)時(shi)(shi)期(qi)。
大(da)西門,又稱水(shui)(shui)亭(ting)(ting)門、朝京門,水(shui)(shui)亭(ting)(ting)為門內街(jie)名(ming),興(xing)許是(shi)(shi)城門外(wai)的(de)卷雪亭(ting)(ting),常被水(shui)(shui)漫,故作水(shui)(shui)亭(ting)(ting)。在這一(yi)區域是(shi)(shi)城中水(shui)(shui)患的(de)又一(yi)重地,古有“水(shui)(shui)亭(ting)(ting)街(jie),街(jie)停水(shui)(shui),水(shui)(shui)亭(ting)(ting)街(jie)上漲大(da)水(shui)(shui)”的(de)句(ju)子(zi)。城門上有樓名(ming)曰(yue)碧(bi)春樓,又名(ming)西勝樓,是(shi)(shi)衢(qu)州(zhou)九樓之一(yi)。門內天皇巷有衢(qu)州(zhou)三(san)塔之一(yi)的(de)天皇塔,由于年久失修,已(yi)于五十年代(dai)中期拆除(chu)。
西安門(men)(men)(men),為(wei)明(ming)朝中后期(qi)才開(kai)的(de)新(xin)門(men)(men)(men),位于城(cheng)區西北角,門(men)(men)(men)面(mian)較(jiao)小,門(men)(men)(men)內有(you)文昌閣為(wei)衢(qu)州八閣之(zhi)一(yi)(yi),門(men)(men)(men)外是烈婦祠,為(wei)表(biao)貞潔烈女(nv)而建(jian)。附近(jin)還有(you)衢(qu)州三塔(ta)之(zhi)一(yi)(yi)的(de)鐵(tie)塔(ta)。
北(bei)門(men)(men),又名拱(gong)辰門(men)(men)、浮(fu)石(shi)門(men)(men),門(men)(men)外有拱(gong)辰橋(北(bei)門(men)(men)橋),古時(shi)外面為浮(fu)石(shi)街,此門(men)(men)已(yi)于五十年代時(shi)拆除。
其下方的小河為(wei)斗潭的東出(chu)水口(kou)。城(cheng)墻(qiang)內原(yuan)為(wei)衢州名勝菱湖(hu)所(suo)在地,湖(hu)域面積逾(yu)千畝,攬得(de)一方盛景。湖(hu)南(nan)岸就是孔廟,附近有止馬(ma)灣(wan),為(wei)水體的一部分。清軍政大臣左(zuo)宗棠任浙江(jiang)巡撫期間(jian),平復太平天國(guo)后便在城(cheng)中(zhong)大興農業,將菱湖(hu)開渠出(chu)水,填湖(hu)為(wei)田。
新(xin)(xin)城(cheng)門,是民(min)國(guo)初期為了方(fang)便(bian)交(jiao)通,把(ba)上(shang)街頭上(shang)的城(cheng)墻(qiang)扒去(qu),并(bing)拆除了附近攔路(lu)的土(tu)地祠(ci),那(nei)打通的城(cheng)墻(qiang)部分(fen)(fen)就叫做新(xin)(xin)城(cheng)門。從此上(shang)下街被打通,成了衢州(zhou)主干道(dao),解放(fang)后(hou)還是320國(guo)道(dao)的一(yi)部分(fen)(fen)。
鐵衢門,早(zao)些年(nian)在環城東路拐(guai)角的地方還(huan)能(neng)看到,那是90年(nian)代建的景觀門,舊城改造,府(fu)山擴(kuo)建后就拆除(chu)了。
南(nan)(nan)湖(hu),這是衢州人熟悉的一條護城河(he)了,河(he)上原有大南(nan)(nan)門(men)、小南(nan)(nan)門(men)兩座吊橋(qiao),現已(yi)經都改成鋼精水泥橋(qiao)了。
斗(dou)(dou)(dou)潭,是(shi)北面的(de)護城(cheng)河,保存(cun)較好(hao),所謂(wei)斗(dou)(dou)(dou)潭就是(shi)說潭大如(ru)斗(dou)(dou)(dou),是(shi)指斗(dou)(dou)(dou)潭小的(de)原因,其實斗(dou)(dou)(dou)潭不小,全長(chang)750米(mi),平均寬度也在25米(mi)以上。
西(xi)(xi)溪衢江,是衢州西(xi)(xi)面天然的(de)屏障(zhang),故名西(xi)(xi)溪、濲水、信安(an)江等。也衢州水運的(de)主要(yao)商業(ye)航(hang)道。寬可(ke)大二三百米。
東濠,濠為護城河,原先的(de)(de)水(shui)運河流青龍碼頭已經不在了,剩下的(de)(de)是被分割成的(de)(de)一塊塊魚塘(tang),還有待疏浚。