金(jin)上京南北二(er)城(cheng)現有北城(cheng)北垣(yuan)1門(men)(men),東垣(yuan)1門(men)(men),西垣(yuan)1門(men)(men),腰(yao)垣(yuan)2門(men)(men),南城(cheng)南垣(yuan)2門(men)(men),除腰(yao)垣(yuan)東側門(men)(men)址處(chu),均帶有甕城(cheng)遺跡。這些甕門(men)(men)多為轉角形,是為了增強城(cheng)門(men)(men)正(zheng)面(mian)防御(yu)力量的重(zhong)要設施。
金上京會寧府遺址屬全(quan)國重點文物(wu)保護(hu)單位。
所(suo)保(bao)(bao)留的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)遺址是金世(shi)宗大(da)定年間(jian)(jian)修(xiu)復(fu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)遺跡。以南(nan)北(bei)二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)墻和皇城(cheng)(cheng)內的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)建筑址保(bao)(bao)存比較(jiao)好。南(nan)北(bei)二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)均呈長(chang)方形狀,城(cheng)(cheng)墻周(zhou)長(chang)22里(li)。金上(shang)京(jing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻為(wei)夯土型建筑,墻表砌有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)青磚,但青磚已被當地居民拆毀(hui)殆盡。城(cheng)(cheng)墻至今(jin)仍(reng)高3-5米,個(ge)(ge)別地段(duan)高達7米,基闊在7-10米左右(you),殘垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)斷壁(bi)處(chu)(chu)黑(hei)黃土相間(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)夯層痕(hen)跡和夯花依(yi)然清晰(xi)可辨。全(quan)城(cheng)(cheng)外垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)平均每隔八O至-百三(san)十米左右(you)不等,就有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)一(yi)處(chu)(chu)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)突出墻表,現(xian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)89個(ge)(ge),環(huan)城(cheng)(cheng)原有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)總數(shu)約(yue)92個(ge)(ge)。其(qi)中北(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)11個(ge)(ge),南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)16個(ge)(ge),二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)西垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)29個(ge)(ge),東垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(包括南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)北(bei)垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)突出部分)24處(chu)(chu)有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)28個(ge)(ge)(其(qi)中有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)兩處(chu)(chu)每處(chu)(chu)2個(ge)(ge),有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)一(yi)處(chu)(chu)為(wei)3個(ge)(ge)),二(er)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)5個(ge)(ge)突出角亦已經不存在,這(zhe)樣環(huan)城(cheng)(cheng)原有(you)(you)(you)(you)(you)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)總數(shu)約(yue)92個(ge)(ge)。馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)在古代作(zuo)戰時,主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)起防御(yu)作(zuo)用(yong)。金上(shang)京(jing)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)馬(ma)(ma)(ma)面(mian)比較(jiao)集中在南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)西垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)與南(nan)垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan),說(shuo)明(ming)(ming)當時主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)足(zu)為(wei)了防御(yu)皇城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)安全(quan)面(mian)設置的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。另外,在金上(shang)京(jing)城(cheng)(cheng)外垣(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)四(si)壁(bi)之下(xia),出土了大(da)量的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)擂石和鐵(tie)箭(jian)簇,說(shuo)明(ming)(ming)金上(shang)京(jing)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)守(shou)衛(wei)主(zhu)要(yao)(yao)足(zu)用(yong)矢石進行防御(yu)。
南北二城的(de)(de)(de)(de)外垣周(zhou)圍和腰垣南側均有(you)護城壕(hao)遺跡,至今(jin)大部分(fen)地段仍深如溝(gou)壑,這里是筑(zhu)城取土的(de)(de)(de)(de)同時(shi)(shi)挖掘而成的(de)(de)(de)(de),可(ke)能是引從(cong)上(shang)京西來的(de)(de)(de)(de)小河之水(shui)入壕(hao),以利防(fang)守(shou),在光(guang)緒年間,壕(hao)中(zhong)尚有(you)積(ji)水(shui)。 據文獻(xian)記載,金(jin)上(shang)京故城內的(de)(de)(de)(de)宮(gong)(gong)殿(dian)(dian)名稱很多,見于金(jin)太宗(zong)時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)乾元(yuan)殿(dian)(dian)、明德(de)(de)宮(gong)(gong);見于金(jin)熙宗(zong)時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)慶元(yuan)宮(gong)(gong),敷(fu)德(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)、宵衣殿(dian)(dian)(寢殿(dian)(dian))、稽古(gu)殿(dian)(dian)(書殿(dian)(dian))、重明殿(dian)(dian)、五云樓、祥曦殿(dian)(dian)等(deng)(deng);見于海陵王時(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)勤政殿(dian)(dian)、泰和殿(dian)(dian)、武(wu)德(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)、永(yong)壽宮(gong)(gong)、永(yong)寧宮(gong)(gong);見于金(jin)世宗(zong)復修后(hou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)有(you)慶元(yuan)宮(gong)(gong)。光(guang)興宮(gong)(gong)、光(guang)德(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)、皇武(wu)殿(dian)(dian)等(deng)(deng)。此外,還(huan)載有(you)明德(de)(de)殿(dian)(dian)、時(shi)(shi)令殿(dian)(dian)、龍壽殿(dian)(dian)、奎(kui)文殿(dian)(dian)。此外還(huan)有(you)術(shu)廟、社稷、孔廟、儲(chu)慶寺等(deng)(deng)。
金上京會(hui)(hui)寧府(fu)(fu)遺址,俗稱(cheng)白(bai)城(cheng),位于阿(a)(a)城(cheng)區南郊2公(gong)里,張廣(guang)才嶺西麓大青山(shan)腳(jiao)下(xia),阿(a)(a)什河(he)左岸(an),依山(shan)傍水。是女真族建立(li)的金帝(di)國的早(zao)期都城(cheng),歷經(jing)金太祖、太宗、熙宗、海陵王(wang)四代皇帝(di),作為金王(wang)朝的政治、軍事(shi)、經(jing)濟、文化中(zhong)心達38年(nian)之久。因其又是金上京路和(he)會(hui)(hui)寧府(fu)(fu)的治所,故稱(cheng)。
金(jin)上(shang)京(jing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)仿照北(bei)(bei)(bei)宋都城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)規(gui)(gui)模(mo)建筑,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市布局與(yu)汴京(jing)(今開封)基本相同,規(gui)(gui)模(mo)宏偉,雄(xiong)渾壯觀(guan)。由毗連(lian)的(de)南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)二城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組成。南(nan)(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)略大(da)于北(bei)(bei)(bei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),二城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)均為長(chang)(chang)方(fang)形,平(ping)面上(shang)一縱一橫(heng)相互銜接,連(lian)為一體(ti),二城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)整(zheng)個外圍周(zhou)長(chang)(chang)為11公(gong)里。雖經800余(yu)年的(de)風(feng)雨(yu)剝蝕(shi)和戰爭破壞(huai),其夯土版筑的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣仍高達3~5米,頹垣基闊7~10米。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻斷面處,夯土層痕跡(ji)依然清晰可辨。外垣平(ping)均每隔(ge)70~120米筑一馬(ma)面。在全城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)5個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)角上(shang)各(ge)構筑角樓一處,為城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻上(shang)的(de)重(zhong)(zhong)點(dian)防御(yu)工事。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)9處,其中7處帶有甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外及二城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)間(jian)的(de)腰(yao)垣南(nan)(nan)側,均有護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)壕(hao)。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)則建于南(nan)(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)偏西處,周(zhou)長(chang)(chang)近2.5公(gong)里。自南(nan)(nan)向(xiang)北(bei)(bei)(bei)有五重(zhong)(zhong)宮(gong)殿基址整(zheng)齊地排(pai)列在皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)北(bei)(bei)(bei)中軸線上(shang),東西兩(liang)(liang)側還有回廊遺址。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)門(men)兩(liang)(liang)側有兩(liang)(liang)個高約7米的(de)土阜,對峙而立,稱為闕(que)。兩(liang)(liang)大(da)土阜間(jian)又有兩(liang)(liang)個小土阜,各(ge)高約3米。大(da)小土阜間(jian)是(shi)皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)南(nan)(nan)門(men)的(de)3條(tiao)通(tong)道(dao),中為正(zheng)門(men)(午門(men)),兩(liang)(liang)側為左(zuo)右闕(que)門(men)。皇(huang)(huang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)布局規(gui)(gui)整(zheng)、嚴(yan)謹。
據史書記載,太祖阿(a)骨打(da)稱(cheng)(cheng)帝時,只設氈帳(稱(cheng)(cheng)皇(huang)帝寨),晚(wan)年(nian)(nian)始筑(zhu)宮(gong)殿。金(jin)太宗天(tian)會(hui)(hui)二(er)(er)(er)年(nian)(nian)(1124)始建(jian)南(nan)城(cheng)(cheng)內的(de)皇(huang)城(cheng)(cheng),初名(ming)為(wei)(wei)會(hui)(hui)寧(ning)州。金(jin)太宗建(jian)為(wei)(wei)都(dou)城(cheng)(cheng),升為(wei)(wei)會(hui)(hui)寧(ning)府。天(tian)眷元年(nian)(nian)(1138)八月(yue),金(jin)熙宗以京師為(wei)(wei)上(shang)京,府曰會(hui)(hui)寧(ning),開(kai)始有上(shang)京之(zhi)稱(cheng)(cheng)。皇(huang)統六年(nian)(nian)(1146)春,仿照北宋都(dou)城(cheng)(cheng)汴京的(de)規模進行(xing)了一次大(da)規模的(de)擴建(jian),奠定(ding)了南(nan)北二(er)(er)(er)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)雛形。貞元元年(nian)(nian)(1153)海陵(ling)王遷都(dou)于燕(yan)京,正隆二(er)(er)(er)年(nian)(nian)(1157)削上(shang)京之(zhi)號,并(bing)毀宮(gong)殿廟(miao)宇。金(jin)世宗大(da)定(ding)十三(san)年(nian)(nian)(1173)七月(yue),又重(zhong)新(xin)恢復了上(shang)京稱(cheng)(cheng)號,成為(wei)(wei)金(jin)朝(chao)的(de)陪都(dou)。大(da)定(ding)二(er)(er)(er)十一年(nian)(nian)金(jin)世宗復建(jian)上(shang)京城(cheng)(cheng)。兩(liang)年(nian)(nian)后,又內外(wai)砌青磚。清初,此城(cheng)(cheng)磚石砌筑(zhu)的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻外(wai)表保存尚好,后“城(cheng)(cheng)之(zhi)樓(lou)堞”為(wei)(wei)阿(a)勒楚喀副(fu)都(dou)統拆運(yun)去建(jian)筑(zhu)阿(a)城(cheng)(cheng)(今縣治(zhi)),遂(sui)毀。