簡介
富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)國(guo)家(jia)水(shui)利風景區位于(yu)錢(qian)塘(tang)江(jiang)(jiang)上(shang)游。自從(cong)東(dong)漢初年嚴(yan)子(zi)陵(ling)隱居于(yu)此以后(hou),這一帶真是“人(ren)杰地靈”,出了不少文(wen)學家(jia)、詩(shi)人(ren)、畫(hua)家(jia)、英雄豪杰。悠(you)(you)悠(you)(you)兩(liang)千年,稱頌富春(chun)山水(shui)和(he)嚴(yan)子(zi)陵(ling)的詩(shi)詞(ci)歌賦、文(wen)章圖畫(hua),汗(han)牛充棟。到(dao)了元朝,李桓名詩(shi)《富春(chun)舟(zhou)中》,劈(pi)頭兩(liang)句(ju)便是“天下(xia)佳山水(shui),古今(jin)推(tui)富春(chun)”,這是古人(ren)對富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)的贊譽。“不是漓江(jiang)(jiang),勝似漓江(jiang)(jiang)”,這是今(jin)人(ren)對富春(chun)江(jiang)(jiang)的評價,人(ren)們還(huan)把它(ta)與長江(jiang)(jiang)三峽(xia)、桂林漓江(jiang)(jiang)并稱為我國(guo)最(zui)著名的三條(tiao)江(jiang)(jiang)河風光游覽線。
富春江景區以(yi)奇(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)異水(shui)聞名(ming)。其(qi)中(zhong)(zhong),申屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)和天(tian)子崗可(ke)謂奇(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)了(le)。申屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)屬富陽市,在(zai)(zai)富春江南(nan)岸,離(li)東梓只有三公里(li)左右(you)。宋朝人陳(chen)剛中(zhong)(zhong)有《申屠山(shan)(shan)(shan)記》一(yi)篇,說這(zhe)個(ge)山(shan)(shan)(shan)“峰巒(luan)重復,端若(ruo)拱揖,應接不(bu)暇。湍水(shui)怪石,神刻鬼(gui)劃,千(qian)巧(qiao)萬(wan)狀(zhuang)。中(zhong)(zhong)有平田,如(ru)設萬(wan)席。挺然僧(seng)寺(si),出于林表。佳木修竹(zhu),左右(you)交翠(cui)。此申屠剛違新室(shi)(shi)(王(wang)莽(mang)篡漢(han),改國號為(wei)新)之禍(huo),申屠蟠晦(hui)黨錮之名(ming),避地結(jie)廬,于今千(qian)載(zai),子孫因家(jia)焉。支派分衍,至百(bai)余室(shi)(shi)。因姓而名(ming)其(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan),山(shan)(shan)(shan)之陽復以(yi)申屠志其(qi)地。”原(yuan)來(lai)(lai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有一(yi)古廟名(ming)大雄(xiong)寺(si),建于唐(tang)長興(xing)三年(nian)。唐(tang)末有一(yi)高僧(seng)禪月尊(zun)者,曾在(zai)(zai)寺(si)內(nei)畫(hua)十(shi)(shi)六(liu)羅(luo)(luo)漢(han)(羅(luo)(luo)漢(han)系印(yin)度傳(chuan)入,本來(lai)(lai)只有十(shi)(shi)六(liu),宋時(shi)有人添加了(le)兩個(ge),從此變(bian)成(cheng)十(shi)(shi)八),栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生(sheng)。據傳(chuan)第十(shi)(shi)六(liu)尊(zun),還是照著他自己的相貌畫(hua)的。這(zhe)位高僧(seng)不(bu)僅善(shan)畫(hua),而且工詩(shi)(shi)(shi)。剛到杭(hang)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),住在(zai)(zai)給事(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)羅(luo)(luo)隱(yin)家(jia)里(li),作詩(shi)(shi)(shi)甚多(duo),中(zhong)(zhong)有名(ming)句“一(yi)瓶一(yi)缽垂垂老,千(qian)水(shui)千(qian)山(shan)(shan)(shan)得得來(lai)(lai)”。羅(luo)(luo)甚為(wei)贊賞,推薦給吳越(yue)王(wang)錢镠。錢镠見其(qi)所獻(xian)詩(shi)(shi)(shi)中(zhong)(zhong)有句“一(yi)劍寒霜十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”,就(jiu)命(ming)人請他把“十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”改成(cheng)“四(si)十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”。因為(wei)當時(shi)唐(tang)室(shi)(shi)凌替(ti),群雄(xiong)并起,錢镠在(zai)(zai)占領吳越(yue)十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)之后,想南(nan)取(qu)王(wang)審知(zhi)的福州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),北取(qu)楊(yang)行密的揚州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),拓(tuo)“十(shi)(shi)四(si)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”為(wei)“四(si)十(shi)(shi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”。原(yuan)本以(yi)為(wei)自己貴為(wei)王(wang)侯,叫一(yi)個(ge)討(tao)飯和尚(shang)改一(yi)句詩(shi)(shi)(shi),自不(bu)在(zai)(zai)話下。哪里(li)知(zhi)道(dao)這(zhe)位禪月和尚(shang),偏偏不(bu)買(mai)他的賬,答道(dao):“州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)亦(yi)不(bu)可(ke)添,詩(shi)(shi)(shi)亦(yi)不(bu)可(ke)改。孤云野(ye)鶴,何天(tian)不(bu)可(ke)飛?”說完(wan)拿了(le)錫杖,離(li)開(kai)杭(hang)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),就(jiu)到此山(shan)(shan)(shan),在(zai)(zai)大雄(xiong)寺(si)內(nei)留(liu)下真(zhen)跡。
天(tian)子(zi)(zi)崗(gang)一(yi)(yi)名白鶴峰。因(yin)(yin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)石皆烏色,奇形怪狀,又(you)名烏石山(shan)(shan)(shan),離東(dong)梓關五(wu)公(gong)里左右,同(tong)申屠(tu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)遙遙相(xiang)對。這座(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)原本(ben)沒有(you)(you)什么大名氣(qi),后來(lai)東(dong)漢孝子(zi)(zi)孫(sun)(sun)(sun)鐘把母(mu)親(qin)葬在(zai)(zai)(zai)這里。孫(sun)(sun)(sun)鐘者(zhe),孫(sun)(sun)(sun)堅的(de)爸爸,孫(sun)(sun)(sun)策、孫(sun)(sun)(sun)權的(de)爺爺也。因(yin)(yin)為孫(sun)(sun)(sun)子(zi)(zi)做了皇(huang)帝,有(you)(you)人就說祖(zu)母(mu)葬的(de)地(di)方風(feng)水好,所(suo)以(yi)就稱之為天(tian)子(zi)(zi)崗(gang)了。妙(miao)就妙(miao)在(zai)(zai)(zai)這座(zuo)山(shan)(shan)(shan)是這一(yi)(yi)帶的(de)最高(gao)峰,頂上(shang)(shang)(shang)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)塊大平地(di)。站在(zai)(zai)(zai)崗(gang)上(shang)(shang)(shang)近(jin)覷(qu):群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)環(huan)繞(rao)腳下(xia),有(you)(you)似(si)百官朝天(tian)子(zi)(zi),倒(dao)有(you)(you)點“碧眼(yan)兒(er)坐領江(jiang)(jiang)東(dong)”的(de)氣(qi)概;遠(yuan)眺:江(jiang)(jiang)水曲曲彎彎,大桐洲上(shang)(shang)(shang)綠(lv)樹環(huan)繞(rao),桃花(hua)盛開季節,堆錦疊繡,五(wu)彩繽紛(fen),使(shi)人眼(yan)花(hua)繚(liao)亂。環(huan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)四周(zhou),有(you)(you)大批名勝古跡,如小(xiao)蓬萊、仙(xian)人洞、百步山(shan)(shan)(shan)、樂村廟、天(tian)香寺等數(shu)十(shi)處,不(bu)知道目前怎樣了。桐廬江(jiang)(jiang)景(jing),自(zi)(zi)古稱道煙(yan)(yan)雨(yu)。每當細(xi)雨(yu)霏霏的(de)時(shi)候,坐船在(zai)(zai)(zai)江(jiang)(jiang)面上(shang)(shang)(shang)駛(shi)過,近(jin)覷(qu),水面漣(lian)漪回(hui)環(huan)不(bu)絕,山(shan)(shan)(shan)影樹影連(lian)(lian)成一(yi)(yi)片(pian),無風(feng)自(zi)(zi)搖;遠(yuan)看,“綠(lv)樹蒼煙(yan)(yan)望欲迷(mi)”,但(dan)見遠(yuan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)長(chang),云山(shan)(shan)(shan)亂,近(jin)山(shan)(shan)(shan)青。加之岸(an)(an)邊幾(ji)個(ge)釣客(ke)身披雨(yu)衣,執(zhi)竿凝神而(er)坐,儼然(ran)一(yi)(yi)幅絕妙(miao)的(de)“春江(jiang)(jiang)煙(yan)(yan)雨(yu)圖”。江(jiang)(jiang)岸(an)(an)上(shang)(shang)(shang)峭壁高(gao)聳,群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)連(lian)(lian)綿不(bu)絕:牛山(shan)(shan)(shan),又(you)名牌門山(shan)(shan)(shan),從(cong)東(dong)到西(xi),恰(qia)巧十(shi)里,所(suo)以(yi)又(you)稱十(shi)里牌門;內逼山(shan)(shan)(shan),外(wai)瞰(kan)江(jiang)(jiang),山(shan)(shan)(shan)路崎嶇屈曲,古為閩廣皖(wan)浙(zhe)通道,現在(zai)(zai)(zai)已經修鳥(niao)道為公(gong)路。金雞(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan),極似(si)公(gong)雞(ji),古人有(you)(you)詩:“天(tian)上(shang)(shang)(shang)金雞(ji)種,何時(shi)墜此山(shan)(shan)(shan)?只因(yin)(yin)鳴有(you)(you)信,流落在(zai)(zai)(zai)人間。”
過(guo)了(le)(le)十里牌門,可見(jian)富春江水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)電站大壩(ba)(ba)(ba)橫截在(zai)江面(mian)上(shang)(shang),此壩(ba)(ba)(ba)高36米(mi)(mi),是新安江大壩(ba)(ba)(ba)的三分之一多點。壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內壩(ba)(ba)(ba)外(wai),水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)位相差二三十米(mi)(mi)。船(chuan)(chuan)過(guo)大壩(ba)(ba)(ba),先(xian)要進(jin)入(ru)(ru)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內船(chuan)(chuan)塢,然后(hou)關上(shang)(shang)后(hou)閘門放水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui),等(deng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)漲船(chuan)(chuan)高,與壩(ba)(ba)(ba)內水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)面(mian)平(ping)齊,前閘門才徐徐落入(ru)(ru)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)中,船(chuan)(chuan)即穿閘門駛入(ru)(ru)富春江水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫。穿壩(ba)(ba)(ba)而出,便(bian)(bian)進(jin)入(ru)(ru)一個(ge)“神仙世界”:富春江最主要的風景區——嚴(yan)子陵釣(diao)(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)。這(zhe)里原名嚴(yan)瀨。上(shang)(shang)世紀60年代,利用(yong)兩山夾峙的自然條(tiao)件(jian),建設富春江水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)電站,修了(le)(le)一個(ge)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫,灘深流急的嚴(yan)瀨,便(bian)(bian)成了(le)(le)一個(ge)波平(ping)如鏡的人(ren)工湖。船(chuan)(chuan)就停(ting)在(zai)離水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)壩(ba)(ba)(ba)一里多路的地(di)方(fang)。原來沿江有一條(tiao)小路直通(tong)釣(diao)(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),修了(le)(le)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫,路已淹沒,去釣(diao)(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)必須坐蘆茨公社的渡船(chuan)(chuan),在(zai)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)庫上(shang)(shang)行三四里,方(fang)到達(da)釣(diao)(diao)(diao)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)腳下。
所謂釣臺(tai)(tai),其實是(shi)(shi)突出富春(chun)山腰的(de)兩塊(kuai)大磐(pan)石(shi)(shi),高(gao)度相仿,東(dong)(dong)西對(dui)峙,天(tian)造(zao)地設,確是(shi)(shi)天(tian)下少見。富春(chun)山一(yi)名嚴陵山,在(zai)(zai)(zai)桐廬縣(xian)城西四(si)十(shi)(shi)里。山高(gao)193米,迤(yi)邐七里。《圖經》上(shang)說(shuo):“嚴陵山清(qing)麗(li)奇(qi)絕,號錦峰繡嶺。”凡是(shi)(shi)到(dao)過(guo)(guo)此地的(de)人,都(dou)認為(wei)這八個(ge)字并(bing)非(fei)過(guo)(guo)譽。連接東(dong)(dong)西兩臺(tai)(tai)的(de)一(yi)條山脊上(shang),中間有一(yi)石(shi)(shi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting),用(yong)七八十(shi)(shi)塊(kuai)條石(shi)(shi)砌嵌(qian)而成(cheng),不(bu)(bu)用(yong)一(yi)根木料,也不(bu)(bu)用(yong)一(yi)點水泥。長方形,面積約(yue)二十(shi)(shi)平(ping)方,式樣樸(pu)素大方。這就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)過(guo)(guo)去(qu)的(de)雙(shuang)清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)。據了解,東(dong)(dong)西釣臺(tai)(tai)上(shang)面原來都(dou)沒(mei)有建(jian)筑。一(yi)直(zhi)到(dao)明朝正統元(yuan)年(1436年),嚴州知府在(zai)(zai)(zai)東(dong)(dong)西兩臺(tai)(tai)各(ge)建(jian)一(yi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting),刻石(shi)(shi)為(wei)額(e),東(dong)(dong)曰“不(bu)(bu)事王侯”,西曰“高(gao)尚其志”,明末(mo)被毀。到(dao)清(qing)乾隆十(shi)(shi)九年(1754年),再由羅氏(shi)兄(xiong)弟復建(jian)。西臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)(shi)額(e)改(gai)為(wei)“留絲(si)一(yi)鼎(ding)”,東(dong)(dong)臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)(shi)額(e)改(gai)為(wei)“垂竿百尺”。后來,西臺(tai)(tai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)又壞掉,到(dao)民國初(chu)年再重建(jian)。除這兩個(ge)石(shi)(shi)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)外,1925年廣東(dong)(dong)人陳(chen)煥之又在(zai)(zai)(zai)這個(ge)山脊上(shang)建(jian)了這個(ge)雙(shuang)清(qing)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)。現在(zai)(zai)(zai)亭(ting)(ting)(ting)(ting)上(shang)石(shi)(shi)額(e)已被砸毀。左右石(shi)(shi)柱上(shang)的(de)對(dui)聯(lian),字跡(ji)約(yue)略可辨(bian):“遠道息塵勞,向此間坐石(shi)(shi)看云,放(fang)懷宇宙;高(gao)臺(tai)(tai)瞻勝(sheng)跡(ji),羨當日(ri)耕山釣水,俯視王侯。”
極目遠望東南,這一(yi)帶(dai)的最(zui)高(gao)峰(feng)(feng)高(gao)龍門直沖(chong)云霄,峰(feng)(feng)頸白(bai)(bai)云繚繞;峰(feng)(feng)前(qian)峰(feng)(feng)左峰(feng)(feng)右,群山(shan)(shan)(shan)環抱(bao);最(zui)多的地方,有六重山(shan)(shan)(shan),層層相疊。遠處天邊,白(bai)(bai)云破處,一(yi)抹藍(lan)天,晶瑩澄澈,似(si)(si)藍(lan)非(fei)藍(lan),似(si)(si)青非(fei)青。夕陽返照,光怪陸離,遠遠望去,似(si)(si)有仙子乘鸞來去。正(zheng)南,山(shan)(shan)(shan)坡(po)上遍(bian)種橘樹(shu)。迤西,也是(shi)一(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)接一(yi)山(shan)(shan)(shan),一(yi)峰(feng)(feng)連(lian)一(yi)峰(feng)(feng),山(shan)(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)(shan)俱青,峰(feng)(feng)峰(feng)(feng)皆秀(xiu)。“錦峰(feng)(feng)繡嶺”,果然(ran)名不虛傳。俯視腳下,一(yi)條清江,依山(shan)(shan)(shan)而流;萬頃(qing)碧波,風平浪靜(jing);幾點(dian)白(bai)(bai)帆,飄蕩其(qi)間。黃公望的杰作《富(fu)春山(shan)(shan)(shan)居圖》將此情(qing)此景(jing)描繪得恰到好(hao)處。雖然(ran)時隔七百年(nian),眼下的清江已非(fei)昔日的急流,但是(shi),風景(jing)、意境依然(ran)未變。“人(ren)(ren)在畫(hua)圖中”,古人(ren)(ren)言(yan)之有理。