塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)草原最著(zhu)(zhu)名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)景(jing)點(dian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)寺(si)(si)(si)和亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)寺(si)(si)(si)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)甘孜州(zhou)(zhou)著(zhu)(zhu)名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)薩迦派(花(hua)教(jiao))寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)。改(gai)革開(kai)放后(hou),隨著(zhu)(zhu)黨的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)宗教(jiao)政(zheng)策的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)落(luo)實,幾經(jing)維修,寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)建(jian)(jian)筑宏偉(wei)壯觀(guan)。主(zhu)要由以(yi)下幾個部(bu)分組成:一(yi)(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)主(zhu)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),為(wei)(wei)漢(han)(han)藏(zang)建(jian)(jian)筑風格結合,下部(bu)為(wei)(wei)傳(chuan)統藏(zang)式(shi)石(shi)砌墻體,上部(bu)為(wei)(wei)漢(han)(han)式(shi)歇(xie)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)屋(wu)頂。殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)主(zhu)供(gong)(gong)佛(fo)祖釋迦牟尼薩迦派大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)師薩軟·貢嘎寧波塑像。二(er)(er)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)凡寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)必設(she)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)護法殿(dian)(dian)(dian),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內(nei)(nei)森嚴,內(nei)(nei)供(gong)(gong)護法神(shen)像。三是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)“覺臥(wo)佛(fo)”殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。廬殿(dian)(dian)(dian)供(gong)(gong)奉傳(chuan)為(wei)(wei)唐代文成公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)主(zhu)入(ru)藏(zang)時(shi)(shi)隨身攜帶的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)釋迦牟尼12歲等身像,該(gai)(gai)佛(fo)像是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)寺(si)(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)重(zhong)要文物,鎮寺(si)(si)(si)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)寶,在(zai)(zai)甘孜州(zhou)(zhou)信教(jiao)群眾中(zhong)有崇高(gao)名(ming)(ming)望。四(si)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),主(zhu)供(gong)(gong)“志(zhi)托(tuo)”塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(漢(han)(han)名(ming)(ming)成就塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta))。據傳(chuan)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)內(nei)(nei)裝(zhuang)藏(zang)有極具法力的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)檀香木(mu)法杖,該(gai)(gai)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)同為(wei)(wei)寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)鎮寺(si)(si)(si)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)寶。五為(wei)(wei)轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)經(jing)廊。寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)經(jing)廊共有二(er)(er)處:一(yi)(yi)(yi)處是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圍繞塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)一(yi)(yi)(yi)周的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)小轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)經(jing)廊;另(ling)(ling)一(yi)(yi)(yi)處是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圍繞整(zheng)修寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)(包括塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)林(lin)在(zai)(zai)內(nei)(nei))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)經(jing)廊。無論(lun)早晚,均有當(dang)地牧(mu)民(min)或是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)其(qi)他地方(fang)(fang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)朝(chao)圣者(zhe),口念嘛尼經(jing),手轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)“東科(ke)”,沿順(shun)時(shi)(shi)針方(fang)(fang)向轉(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)經(jing)。六是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)“扎(zha)空(kong)”(即僧房),大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)左右兩側分別建(jian)(jian)有兩幢(chuang)極具特色的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)藏(zang)式(shi)“崩空(kong)”式(shi)建(jian)(jian)筑,專供(gong)(gong)寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)僧人居住(zhu)(zhu)。七是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)蓮花(hua)生殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。該(gai)(gai)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)與“塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”相對襯,另(ling)(ling)立于(yu)(yu)寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)前右方(fang)(fang),內(nei)(nei)供(gong)(gong)蓮花(hua)生大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)師佛(fo)像。八是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)在(zai)(zai)主(zhu)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)右側的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)喇讓建(jian)(jian)筑中(zhong),新塑了一(yi)(yi)(yi)尊10余米高(gao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)千手觀(guan)音鍍(du)金巨幅銅(tong)像,堪(kan)稱(cheng)“康巴(ba)一(yi)(yi)(yi)絕(jue)”。塑像工藝美(mei)觀(guan),造型生動。每(mei)年藏(zang)歷(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)6月6日(ri)(ri)至17日(ri)(ri)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)護法盛會(hui)期間,舉行寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)“羌姆”(神(shen)舞)活動,前去觀(guan)光者(zhe)絡繹不絕(jue)。由于(yu)(yu)寺(si)(si)(si)內(nei)(nei)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)中(zhong)所(suo)(suo)供(gong)(gong)奉的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“志(zhi)托(tuo)”塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)極富(fu)傳(chuan)奇色彩,而(er)且傳(chuan)說該(gai)(gai)寺(si)(si)(si)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)在(zai)(zai)該(gai)(gai)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)基(ji)礎上所(suo)(suo)建(jian)(jian),故寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)名(ming)(ming)稱(cheng)亦以(yi)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)中(zhong)“志(zhi)托(tuo)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)”命名(ming)(ming),稱(cheng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)“志(zhi)托(tuo)桑珠林(lin)”(意(yi)為(wei)(wei)一(yi)(yi)(yi)見(jian)解(jie)脫寺(si)(si)(si))。大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)概就是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)因為(wei)(wei)這個原因,后(hou)來(lai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)高(gao)僧大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)德和施主(zhu)們(men)紛紛來(lai)寺(si)(si)(si)修塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta),在(zai)(zai)寺(si)(si)(si)廟(miao)左面的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)塊空(kong)地上形(xing)成一(yi)(yi)(yi)片塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)林(lin),數(shu)目達100余座。其(qi)中(zhong)以(yi)東方(fang)(fang)白(bai)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)、南方(fang)(fang)黃塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)、西方(fang)(fang)紅(hong)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)、北方(fang)(fang)綠(lv)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)最為(wei)(wei)著(zhu)(zhu)名(ming)(ming)。塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)林(lin)氣勢宏大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da),莊嚴肅穆,蔚(yu)為(wei)(wei)壯觀(guan)。;亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)康巴(ba)地區有名(ming)(ming)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)(yi)(yi),同時(shi)(shi)它又是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)著(zhu)(zhu)名(ming)(ming)藏(zang)族(zu)(zu)史詩《格薩爾(er)(er)王傳(chuan)》里記載的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)藏(zang)區四(si)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)神(shen)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)。藏(zang)族(zu)(zu)古籍《神(shen)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志(zhi)易入(ru)解(jie)脫之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)道》記載,亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)(wei)“第(di)二(er)(er)香巴(ba)拉(la)”。所(suo)(suo)謂香巴(ba)拉(la),就是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)神(shen)仙(xian)居住(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地方(fang)(fang),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)藏(zang)民(min)心目中(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)理(li)想(xiang)境界(jie),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)虛(xu)幻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)。“第(di)二(er)(er)香巴(ba)拉(la)”則是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)真(zhen)實的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),就在(zai)(zai)我們(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)眼前。亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)位于(yu)(yu)道孚(fu)縣(xian)東南與康定縣(xian)交界(jie)處,海拔5820米,山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)頂終年白(bai)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)皚(ai)皚(ai),云霧(wu)繚繞,能(neng)看(kan)(kan)見(jian)亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)峰,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)你(ni)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)好福氣。我們(men)在(zai)(zai)八美(mei)鎮看(kan)(kan)亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),呈(cheng)皇冠形(xing)狀;在(zai)(zai)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)草原呈(cheng)花(hua)瓣簇擁的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)蓮花(hua)寶座形(xing)狀;在(zai)(zai)它的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)正西方(fang)(fang)農戈(ge)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上看(kan)(kan)見(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),則是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)端坐(zuo)(zuo)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)彌勒佛(fo),形(xing)象十分逼真(zhen)。每(mei)逢良辰吉日(ri)(ri),亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)端坐(zuo)(zuo)于(yu)(yu)藍(lan)天之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)下,升起一(yi)(yi)(yi)朵蘑菇狀的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)白(bai)云,猶如祭祀(si)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)輕煙。由于(yu)(yu)亞(ya)拉(la)雪(xue)(xue)(xue)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)十分有靈氣,又為(wei)(wei)藏(zang)族(zu)(zu)大(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)(da)英雄格薩爾(er)(er)王所(suo)(suo)看(kan)(kan)重(zhong),因而(er)歷(li)代是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)惠遠(yuan)寺(si)(si)(si)和周邊藏(zang)民(min)頂禮膜拜(bai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)神(shen)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)。
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【自駕】
康(kang)定沿(yan)318國道向西(xi)行70公里(li)左右(you)到(dao)新(xin)都橋鎮,中間要(yao)翻(fan)過海(hai)拔4200米的(de)折(zhe)多山,過新(xin)都橋后向北行33公里(li)即(ji)到(dao)塔(ta)公。