天(tian)門山(shan)(shan)(shan)拔(ba)(ba)地而起,橫亙(gen)于(yu)甘谷縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城南,山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢巍峨,連峰疊嶂。《甘谷縣(xian)(xian)(xian)志》中(zhong)記(ji)載:天(tian)門山(shan)(shan)(shan)“為縣(xian)(xian)(xian)之主山(shan)(shan)(shan),海拔(ba)(ba)1582米。山(shan)(shan)(shan)勢突兀,三峰挺拔(ba)(ba),宛如(ru)筆(bi)架(jia)(jia),俗名筆(bi)架(jia)(jia)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。曾設天(tian)門隘,為縣(xian)(xian)(xian)城屏(ping)障。”
天門山(shan)山(shan)勢巍峨(e)連峰聳峙(zhi),古木成林(lin),山(shan)花似(si)錦。南嶺(ling)渠(qu)水,潺(chan)潺(chan)環繞;盤山(shan)公路,直(zhi)通(tong)山(shan)頂。
正如《甘肅通志》描述甘谷縣城的(de)(de)景色:“關嶺(ling)東峙,朱圉西(xi)雄(xiong),南仰天(tian)(tian)門,北環渭水(shui),萬(wan)山(shan)(shan)四塞,復(fu)嶺(ling)重網。”天(tian)(tian)門山(shan)(shan)是觀(guan)賞城區(qu)景色的(de)(de)去處。每當(dang)旭日東升,登臨山(shan)(shan)頂,晨霧(wu)中環視四野,但見層(ceng)巒疊嶂,綿延起伏,頗為壯觀(guan);俯瞰渭水(shui)平川,煙霧(wu)繚(liao)繞(rao),玉帶蜿蜒,高樓林(lin)立(li),霞光映彩。夕陽西(xi)照時(shi),則四野涂金,山(shan)(shan)巒輝映。清康熙年(nian)間伏羌(今(jin)甘谷)縣令曹思(si)義賦詩曰:
秦隴(long)名山眼底收,天(tian)門(men)翠聳更(geng)無侔。
云開平野田(tian)疇繡,霧散高城樓舍稠(chou)。
天門山(shan)(shan)東(dong)岳大帝信仰起源(yuan)(yuan)于泰山(shan)(shan)神崇拜,泰山(shan)(shan)神信仰起源(yuan)(yuan)悠久,是原始宗(zong)教中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)神崇拜的延(yan)續和演(yan)變,據《史記(ji)·封禪書》中(zhong)所引《管(guan)子·封禪書》載,早在傳說(shuo)時期就有(you)伏(fu)羲氏、神農(nong)氏、炎帝、黃(huang)帝、堯(yao)、舜、禹(yu)等都曾對泰山(shan)(shan)有(you)所崇奉。而隨著后來帝王對泰山(shan)(shan)的正(zheng)式封禪,則使泰山(shan)(shan)信仰有(you)了(le)更加神圣、崇高的意義。
甘谷縣泰山神信仰(yang)由來(lai)已(yi)久,現有據(ju)可(ke)查的證據(ju)表明,天門山東(dong)岳(yue)大帝信仰(yang)應(ying)該始于宋(song)代。宋(song)代時(shi)由于官方詔(zhao)令天下供(gong)奉東(dong)岳(yue)大帝,民間(jian)開(kai)始普(pu)遍(bian)信仰(yang)供(gong)奉,全國(guo)各(ge)地紛(fen)紛(fen)建立廟宇供(gong)奉,而甘谷天門山東(dong)岳(yue)廟也是此時(shi)建立的。
《甘(gan)谷(gu)縣志》載(zai):“(天(tian)(tian)門山(shan)(shan)(shan))頂有(you)東岳(yue)廟,又稱天(tian)(tian)齊宮,俗稱泰山(shan)(shan)(shan)廟。該廟始(shi)(shi)建(jian)于宋(song)(song)仁宗天(tian)(tian)圣年間(1023-1031),采本山(shan)(shan)(shan)原始(shi)(shi)林(lin)木而建(jian)。廟內塑像威嚴雄起,殿壁(bi)十王(wang)畫像襟帶須眉飄飄飛動,鬼判詼奇警人。” 從(cong)(cong)文中(zhong)可知,天(tian)(tian)門山(shan)(shan)(shan)的(de)東岳(yue)廟正是宋(song)(song)代時始(shi)(shi)建(jian),而甘(gan)谷(gu)縣東岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)信仰(yang)則至(zhi)晚是從(cong)(cong)宋(song)(song)代開始(shi)(shi)在(zai)民(min)間普及。宋(song)(song)真(zhen)宗于大(da)中(zhong)祥符三年(1010 年)下達圣旨(zhi)敕(chi)令全國(guo)通祀(si)東岳(yue)泰山(shan)(shan)(shan)神,企圖通過利用泰山(shan)(shan)(shan)神之(zhi)(zhi)威神來達到“鎮服四海,夸示(shi)外國(guo)”之(zhi)(zhi)效。甘(gan)谷(gu)縣在(zai)宋(song)(song)代時期是宋(song)(song)夏(xia)交戈的(de)前沿陣地(di)(di),在(zai)這時修建(jian)泰山(shan)(shan)(shan)廟供奉(feng)東岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di),無論(lun)從(cong)(cong)政(zheng)府(fu)自上而下的(de)政(zheng)令號召,還是從(cong)(cong)民(min)間自下而上的(de)宗教需(xu)求(qiu),作為生活在(zai)多戰(zhan)之(zhi)(zhi)地(di)(di)的(de)苦(ku)難老(lao)百姓來說,東岳(yue)大(da)帝(di)(di)信仰(yang)的(de)流行是順理(li)成(cheng)章的(de)。
另外從天門山東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)造像及殿內壁畫內容可推測,甘(gan)谷(gu)縣供奉(feng)信仰(yang)(yang)的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)的(de)(de)身份應該(gai)是(shi)黃(huang)(huang)飛虎(hu)(hu)一系。附近的(de)(de)武(wu)都地區、天水地區其他地方所信仰(yang)(yang)的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)也多為黃(huang)(huang)飛虎(hu)(hu)之說的(de)(de)東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)信仰(yang)(yang),或稱“黃(huang)(huang)爺”,也可以作為推測甘(gan)谷(gu)縣東(dong)岳(yue)大帝(di)為黃(huang)(huang)飛虎(hu)(hu)的(de)(de)佐證。
自(zi)宋代之后(hou)(hou),東(dong)岳大帝信(xin)仰(yang)在(zai)甘(gan)谷如何存在(zai)、發(fa)展、變化(hua),史(shi)(shi)料已不(bu)可考,而宋代所建天門山(shan)頂的東(dong)岳廟后(hou)(hou)來也毀(hui)(hui)于(yu)戰(zhan)火,現在(zai)所存為(wei)后(hou)(hou)建。《甘(gan)谷史(shi)(shi)話》載:“(天門)山(shan)巔東(dong)岳廟……后(hou)(hou)毀(hui)(hui),現存寺廟建筑為(wei)20世紀末以后(hou)(hou)所建,由山(shan)門、佛堂、東(dong)岳廟組成。”
從現在的天門(men)山(shan)(shan)建筑格局及宗教管(guan)理(li)和(he)宗教活動來(lai)看,天門(men)山(shan)(shan)已經主要(yao)成為佛教道場。如(ru)山(shan)(shan)下(xia)及山(shan)(shan)頂建筑成為“天門(men)寺(si)”,山(shan)(shan)頂由佛教出家僧人主持并管(guan)理(li)。山(shan)(shan)下(xia)也稱(cheng)天門(men)寺(si)主殿供奉的則是觀世(shi)音菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)、文殊菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)、普賢菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa)三位佛教大菩(pu)薩(sa)(sa),泰山(shan)(shan)爺(ye)黃飛虎則居于旁邊配殿。
聞(wen)明遐邇的(de)“天門(men)春曉(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)”是(shi)“甘谷八(ba)景”之第一景觀,早見于(yu)(yu)明朝(chao)天啟七年(1627)葉應甲修(xiu)纂的(de)《伏(fu)羌(qiang)縣志(zhi)(zhi)》,明清(qing)兩代吟詠天門(men)春曉(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)的(de)詩(shi)作均載于(yu)(yu)縣志(zhi)(zhi)。清(qing)時伏(fu)羌(qiang)知縣侯(hou)新嚴就有(you)(you)詩(shi)詠《天門(men)春曉(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)》:“天門(men)清(qing)峻豁吟眸,春笑宜人曉(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)更(geng)幽。麥陌如鱗山(shan)裹(guo)繡,苔(tai)岑有(you)(you)約我重(zhong)游。振衣石(shi)磴邀林鳥,搔首(shou)云巔接斗牛(niu)。古剎(cha)依稀馀蔓(man)草,東風吹著碧(bi)光浮。”清(qing)駱(luo)繼(ji)賓也有(you)(you)同(tong)題(ti)詩(shi):“誰(shui)到天門(men)謁(ye)見天,三峰(feng)聳(song)峙碧(bi)云連。萬家(jia)煙火(huo)凝目近,百(bai)里(li)山(shan)河舉步前。綠水朱山(shan)花點翠,白(bai)梨紅杏(xing)錦生妍(yan)。春風一蕩融合后,拖得物華顯渭川。”字里(li)行間(jian),全是(shi)春意。天門(men)山(shan)清(qing)幽雅靜(jing),文人雅士(shi)常登臨聚會,酬唱詠和,累有(you)(you)佳作。
山(shan)(shan)巔的東(dong)岳廟(miao),又(you)稱天(tian)(tian)齊宮,俗稱泰山(shan)(shan)廟(miao)。始建(jian)于宋仁宗天(tian)(tian)圣年間(jian)(1023——1031),據(ju)傳(chuan)是(shi)(shi)采本山(shan)(shan)原始森林所建(jian),是(shi)(shi)一組布局謹(jin)嚴,氣(qi)度恢(hui)宏(hong)的古建(jian)群,后來不(bu)幸毀壞。現存寺廟(miao)建(jian)筑(zhu)都是(shi)(shi)二十(shi)世紀末(mo)以來陸續建(jian)成的,由(you)山(shan)(shan)門(men)、佛(fo)堂、東(dong)岳廟(miao)組成。廟(miao)內(nei)塑(su)像(xiang)威猛(meng)肅整,壁畫人(ren)物襟帶(dai)須眉,飄飄飛動,小鬼判官神情逼人(ren),栩栩如生。廟(miao)院內(nei)兩(liang)株紅白牡丹植于北宋,系珍貴(gui)的文物樹木。
山南坡(po)有一口清(qing)(qing)泉(quan),俗(su)稱“蛤蟆口”,周圍青草翠蔓,環境清(qing)(qing)幽。泉(quan)水從石縫石縫流出,晶瑩澄澈,清(qing)(qing)冽甘美,四季不絕。翻(fan)山而(er)來(lai)的本地人(ren)絡繹(yi)不絕,在此(ci)排隊(dui)取(qu)水。據說用此(ci)水沏茶,可以清(qing)(qing)肝明目(mu),延年益壽(shou)。
“七(qi)把(ba)刀(dao)”是天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡的(de)七(qi)道山(shan)(shan)(shan)梁,形如七(qi)把(ba)尖刀(dao)。相(xiang)傳很久以前,伏羌(qiang)(qiang)縣羌(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)當(dang)道,排擠漢人(ren),終(zhong)于起(qi)了沖突。漢人(ren)人(ren)數較少,只好退守天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)。某日羌(qiang)(qiang)王(wang)率領部隊(dui)大舉進攻天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan),羌(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)個個手持刀(dao)斧,大呼小叫,沖上(shang)天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡。守山(shan)(shan)(shan)的(de)漢人(ren)用滾(gun)木、石塊向羌(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)還擊,但寡不(bu)敵眾,眼看山(shan)(shan)(shan)寨(zhai)將被攻破。在值危急萬分(fen)的(de)時(shi)刻,只見(jian)一(yi)(yi)道金光突然閃現,天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡,齊刷(shua)刷(shua)地崛起(qi)七(qi)道山(shan)(shan)(shan)梁,猶(you)如七(qi)把(ba)聳立天(tian)際的(de)石刀(dao),劈入羌(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)陣中。眼看就要得勝的(de)羌(qiang)(qiang)人(ren)部隊(dui),被從(cong)天(tian)而降突如其來(lai)的(de)天(tian)降神(shen)刀(dao)嚇得驚惶(huang)失措,報頭逃命,從(cong)此不(bu)敢(gan)來(lai)犯(fan)。“七(qi)把(ba)刀(dao)”之名(ming)(ming)形象(xiang)地表現了天(tian)門(men)(men)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北坡的(de)險峻,而這傳說也曲折(zhe)地反映了歷(li)史上(shang)的(de)民族沖突,以及“伏羌(qiang)(qiang)”這一(yi)(yi)地名(ming)(ming)的(de)由(you)來(lai)。
在天(tian)門山(shan)山(shan)下,有(you)座(zuo)“天(tian)門寺(si)(si)”。寺(si)(si)中(zhong)殿宇建筑雄偉壯觀(guan),有(you)觀(guan)音殿、圣母殿、將軍(jun)殿、竹林社等,每年農(nong)歷三月二十八舉行廟(miao)會,會期一周。其時(shi)正值暮春時(shi)節,滿山(shan)鳥語(yu)花香,美不勝收。游人們結(jie)伴(ban)而至,拜佛許(xu)愿(yuan),游山(shan)玩(wan)水。那場面(mian)真是一是繁華,可謂勝景。