江西(xi)贛州(zhou)不僅因山水(shui)秀(xiu)麗(li)而聞名(ming)于(yu)世,更由于(yu)這座(zuo)古(gu)老(lao)城(cheng)市因完(wan)好保存了自宋(song)代沿(yan)襲至今的三千多(duo)米的古(gu)城(cheng)墻而聞名(ming)遐(xia)邇。贛州(zhou)宋(song)城(cheng)墻全(quan)長(chang)3664米,以(yi)其高低逶迤之勢與秀(xiu)麗(li)江水(shui)形成美(mei)妙反(fan)差。清晨漫步在古(gu)樸蜿蜒的城(cheng)墻上(shang),只(zhi)見(jian)城(cheng)外一(yi)江清流,遠處山間田舍煙云(yun)飄渺(miao),近處街坊鱗次櫛比,讓人感到猶如置身于(yu)一(yi)幅美(mei)麗(li)的《清明上(shang)河(he)圖》之中。
為了(le)保護(hu)好這道我國現存(cun)規模大、保存(cun)完整的北宋磚砌石城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)贛州市政府與2004年斥資8000萬(wan)對(dui)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)進(jin)行了(le)保護(hu)維修。
贛(gan)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)造(zao)乃至贛(gan)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)形(xing)成(cheng)和發展,與中國古(gu)代四位杰出(chu)人(ren)(ren)物密切相關(guan):一(yi)位是東(dong)晉(jin)南康郡(今贛(gan)州(zhou))太(tai)守(shou)高(gao)琰,他以(yi)驚人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)膽魄在(zai)東(dong)晉(jin)永和五年(nian)(349年(nian))夯土筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),第(di)二位是五代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)盧光稠(chou)(chou),五代時(shi),群雄(xiong)割(ge)據,使得(de)偏安虔州(zhou)(今贛(gan)州(zhou))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)百(bai)勝軍(jun)防御使盧光稠(chou)(chou)萌(meng)發了(le)(le)(le)稱王(wang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)念頭,他將城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)區擴大(da)了(le)(le)(le)約二倍的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面積(ji),形(xing)成(cheng)王(wang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規模(mo),不料背疾忽發英(ying)年(nian)早(zao)逝。不過他人(ren)(ren)雖走(zou)了(le)(le)(le),贛(gan)州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規模(mo)卻被(bei)他擴大(da)了(le)(le)(le);第(di)三(san)位人(ren)(ren)物是孔子(zi)第(di)46代孫孔宗翰,北宋(song)(song)嘉(jia)佑年(nian)間(jian)(1056—1063)他擔任贛(gan)州(zhou)知(zhi)州(zhou)。為(wei)了(le)(le)(le)解除江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)年(nian)年(nian)灌城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)災害,他用鐵水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)澆固城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)石基,用磚石全(quan)面改砌城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),逐漸把土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)改砌成(cheng)磚石城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),因而(er)他成(cheng)了(le)(le)(le)贛(gan)州(zhou)宋(song)(song)代磚城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)創始人(ren)(ren)。風流倜儻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)孔宗翰還特意在(zai)三(san)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)交匯處(chu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)上砌建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)了(le)(le)(le)一(yi)座(zuo)石樓,營(ying)造(zao)起(qi)一(yi)處(chu)可以(yi)讓官宦大(da)吏、文人(ren)(ren)雅(ya)士們觀景品(pin)茗的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地方。這(zhe)位風流才(cai)子(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)遠見(jian)卓識,引(yin)出(chu)了(le)(le)(le)后來蘇東(dong)坡數(shu)訪虔州(zhou),為(wei)八鏡臺賦詩(shi)作(zuo)序的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷史佳話;第(di)四位是北宋(song)(song)虔州(zhou)知(zhi)州(zhou)劉(liu)彝。這(zhe)位著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)利(li)專家一(yi)心為(wei)民謀福(fu)(fu),完成(cheng)了(le)(le)(le)盧光稠(chou)(chou)未竟事業,他修建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內福(fu)(fu)溝、壽溝,整理(li)疏通(tong)虔州(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地下(xia)(xia)排水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)系統,在(zai)臨江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)道口又修筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)了(le)(le)(le)12座(zuo)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)窗,從(cong)而(er)解決了(le)(le)(le)年(nian)年(nian)江(jiang)水(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)(shui)倒灌的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)困境。明代洪(hong)武年(nian)間(jian)創建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)大(da)明皇(huang)朝(chao)以(yi)后,皇(huang)帝朱元(yuan)璋提出(chu)“高(gao)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)、廣積(ji)糧、緩稱王(wang)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)策(ce)略,下(xia)(xia)令各州(zhou)、縣筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),現存(cun)全(quan)國各地保留下(xia)(xia)來的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)都(dou)是那時(shi)興(xing)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),唯獨(du)贛(gan)州(zhou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)是北宋(song)(song)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),這(zhe)是一(yi)份寶貴的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)文化遺產。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)后經南(nan)宋、元、明、清、民國,歷時900多年的(de)不斷修繕、加固,使贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)形成了一道周(zhou)長(chang)13華里(li),高大(da)雄(xiong)偉(wei)的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)。而且護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河、墻(qiang)(qiang)垛(duo)、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓、警鋪、馬面、炮(pao)(pao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)等(deng)設(she)施(shi)齊全,整個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池共有(you)(you)(you)西(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)、鎮(zhen)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)、百勝門(men)(men)(men)、建春(chun)門(men)(men)(men)、涌金門(men)(men)(men)5座城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men),其中(zhong)前3座城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)還(huan)(huan)(huan)有(you)(you)(you)二重或三重甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。清朝(chao)咸豐年間(jian),為(wei)了防止(zhi)太(tai)平(ping)軍攻城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),又(you)在(zai)(zai)贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)主要(yao)交通(tong)要(yao)道口興建了東門(men)(men)(men)、小南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)、大(da)南(nan)門(men)(men)(men)、西(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)、八鏡臺5座炮(pao)(pao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)因城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池非常(chang)堅固,又(you)有(you)(you)(you)江水相助,易守難攻,有(you)(you)(you)“鐵城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)”之稱。太(tai)平(ping)軍兩(liang)次(ci)攻城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),中(zhong)央(yang)蘇區(qu)時期紅軍六(liu)次(ci)攻城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),都沒有(you)(you)(you)攻破。現存保留下(xia)來的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)還(huan)(huan)(huan)有(you)(you)(you)北(bei)門(men)(men)(men)、西(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)、建春(chun)門(men)(men)(men)、涌金門(men)(men)(men)4座;保存完好的(de)炮(pao)(pao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)有(you)(you)(you)八境臺和西(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)炮(pao)(pao)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng);古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)有(you)(you)(you)3600米。這(zhe)些(xie)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)(men)不僅成為(wei)今天的(de)游覽景點,而且至(zhi)今還(huan)(huan)(huan)在(zai)(zai)為(wei)贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)防洪(hong)發揮(hui)重要(yao)作用,贛(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)市(shi)政府每年還(huan)(huan)(huan)撥出一定經費維護古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)。
尤為(wei)珍(zhen)貴的(de)(de)是(shi),在古(gu)(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)上保留(liu)有(you)(you)數以萬計的(de)(de)帶有(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)字的(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan),這種(zhong)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)被稱(cheng)為(wei)銘(ming)文(wen)(wen)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan),上面載有(you)(you)不(bu)同時代的(de)(de)不(bu)同內容,主(zhu)要的(de)(de)是(shi)××年(nian)、××督造、××窯(yao)燒造等,據市博(bo)物館調查統(tong)計,共有(you)(you)各種(zhong)不(bu)同內容的(de)(de)銘(ming)文(wen)(wen)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)521種(zhong),早的(de)(de)一種(zhong)銘(ming)文(wen)(wen)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)記有(you)(you)北宋熙(xi)寧二(er)年(nian)(1069年(nian)),晚的(de)(de)一種(zhong)銘(ming)文(wen)(wen)磚(zhuan)(zhuan)(zhuan)記于民國(guo)四年(nian)(1915年(nian))。這一傳(chuan)統(tong)一直保留(liu)至(zhi)今(jin),成為(wei)贛州(zhou)的(de)(de)一部歷史(shi)巨(ju)著,記載著贛州(zhou)古(gu)(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)興衰、嬗變,充分(fen)(fen)體現了傳(chuan)統(tong)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)風(feng)格和(he)規劃思想。是(shi)顯示中(zhong)國(guo)歷史(shi)文(wen)(wen)化特色的(de)(de)標志性建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)。它對(dui)于研究我(wo)國(guo)古(gu)(gu)代的(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)市建(jian)設(she),有(you)(you)著十分(fen)(fen)重要的(de)(de)歷史(shi)價值。1996年(nian),國(guo)務院將(jiang)贛州(zhou)古(gu)(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)列(lie)入全國(guo)重點文(wen)(wen)物保護單位。
解放后(hou)(hou)經過實測全長(chang)6900米(mi)(mi),平均高(gao)度5米(mi)(mi),厚6.5米(mi)(mi),有(you)鎮南、西(xi)(xi)津、涌(yong)金(jin)、建春(chun)、百(bai)勝(sheng)五門(men)(men)(men)。1958年拆除百(bai)勝(sheng)門(men)(men)(men)經鎮南門(men)(men)(men)至西(xi)(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)的(de)南段城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)后(hou)(hou),現存沿江(jiang)的(de)東(dong)西(xi)(xi)兩段,從(cong)西(xi)(xi)津門(men)(men)(men)沿章江(jiang)至八(ba)境臺(tai),從(cong)八(ba)境臺(tai)沿貢江(jiang)經涌(yong)金(jin)門(men)(men)(men)、建春(chun)門(men)(men)(men)至原(yuan)(yuan)百(bai)勝(sheng)門(men)(men)(men)旁、今東(dong)河(he)大(da)橋止(zhi),共3664米(mi)(mi)。另(ling)外,南段古城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)沿拜將臺(tai)段還有(you)52米(mi)(mi),1990年10月又暴露贛(gan)(gan)州養濟院南的(de)城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)墻(qiang)(qiang)基41米(mi)(mi)。經贛(gan)(gan)州市博物館(guan)1990年調查,現存古城(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)中(zhong),宋(song)石墻(qiang)(qiang)25.25米(mi)(mi),宋(song)磚墻(qiang)(qiang)19.80米(mi)(mi)和(he)養濟院南宋(song)磚墻(qiang)(qiang)基41米(mi)(mi),基本上是原(yuan)(yuan)墻(qiang)(qiang)原(yuan)(yuan)貌,其余部分多歷代維修,除被蔓草雜樹掩蓋部分,宋(song)代遺存或許在(zai)墻(qiang)(qiang)內還待發現外,多數已混雜不清了。但(dan)3664米(mi)(mi)整(zheng)體規模宏(hong)偉壯(zhuang)麗,令人嘆為觀止(zhi)。