江(jiang)西贛州(zhou)不(bu)僅因山(shan)水(shui)秀麗(li)(li)(li)而(er)聞名(ming)于世,更由于這座古老城(cheng)市因完好保存了自(zi)宋代沿襲至今(jin)的(de)三千多米的(de)古城(cheng)墻(qiang)而(er)聞名(ming)遐(xia)邇。贛州(zhou)宋城(cheng)墻(qiang)全(quan)長3664米,以其(qi)高低逶(wei)迤(yi)之勢與秀麗(li)(li)(li)江(jiang)水(shui)形成美妙反差。清(qing)晨漫步在古樸蜿(wan)蜒的(de)城(cheng)墻(qiang)上,只見城(cheng)外一(yi)江(jiang)清(qing)流,遠處山(shan)間(jian)田舍煙(yan)云(yun)飄渺,近(jin)處街坊鱗次櫛比,讓人感到猶(you)如(ru)置身于一(yi)幅美麗(li)(li)(li)的(de)《清(qing)明(ming)上河圖》之中。
為了保護好這道我國現(xian)存規模大、保存完(wan)整的(de)北宋(song)磚砌(qi)石城(cheng)墻贛州市(shi)政府與(yu)2004年斥資(zi)8000萬對(dui)古城(cheng)墻進行(xing)了保護維修。
贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)造(zao)乃至贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)形成(cheng)(cheng)和(he)發(fa)展,與中國古代四位(wei)(wei)杰出(chu)人物密(mi)切相(xiang)關:一(yi)位(wei)(wei)是(shi)(shi)東晉(jin)南康郡(今贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou))太守高(gao)琰,他(ta)以驚人的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)膽魄在(zai)東晉(jin)永和(he)五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(349年(nian)(nian)(nian))夯土(tu)(tu)筑城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),第(di)二位(wei)(wei)是(shi)(shi)五代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)盧(lu)光稠(chou),五代時(shi),群(qun)雄割據,使得偏安(an)虔(qian)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(今贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou))的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)百勝軍防(fang)御使盧(lu)光稠(chou)萌發(fa)了(le)(le)(le)稱(cheng)王(wang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)念頭,他(ta)將城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)區擴大(da)了(le)(le)(le)約二倍(bei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)積,形成(cheng)(cheng)王(wang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規模(mo),不料背疾忽發(fa)英年(nian)(nian)(nian)早逝(shi)。不過他(ta)人雖(sui)走了(le)(le)(le),贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)規模(mo)卻被(bei)他(ta)擴大(da)了(le)(le)(le);第(di)三(san)位(wei)(wei)人物是(shi)(shi)孔子第(di)46代孫(sun)孔宗翰(han),北宋(song)嘉佑年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(1056—1063)他(ta)擔(dan)任(ren)贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)知(zhi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)。為了(le)(le)(le)解除江(jiang)水(shui)年(nian)(nian)(nian)年(nian)(nian)(nian)灌(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)災害,他(ta)用鐵水(shui)澆(jiao)固城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)石基(ji),用磚(zhuan)石全面(mian)改砌城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),逐(zhu)漸(jian)把土(tu)(tu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)改砌成(cheng)(cheng)磚(zhuan)石城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),因而他(ta)成(cheng)(cheng)了(le)(le)(le)贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)宋(song)代磚(zhuan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)創(chuang)始人。風(feng)流(liu)倜(ti)儻的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)孔宗翰(han)還(huan)特意在(zai)三(san)水(shui)交匯處的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)上砌建(jian)(jian)了(le)(le)(le)一(yi)座石樓,營造(zao)起一(yi)處可以讓官宦大(da)吏、文(wen)人雅(ya)士們(men)觀景品(pin)茗的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)(di)方(fang)。這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)位(wei)(wei)風(feng)流(liu)才子的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)遠見卓識(shi),引出(chu)了(le)(le)(le)后(hou)來蘇東坡(po)數(shu)訪(fang)虔(qian)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou),為八鏡臺賦詩作序的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)歷(li)史佳話;第(di)四位(wei)(wei)是(shi)(shi)北宋(song)虔(qian)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)知(zhi)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)劉彝。這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)位(wei)(wei)著名的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)建(jian)(jian)水(shui)利專家一(yi)心為民謀福,完成(cheng)(cheng)了(le)(le)(le)盧(lu)光稠(chou)未(wei)竟事業,他(ta)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內福溝、壽溝,整(zheng)理疏通虔(qian)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地(di)(di)下排水(shui)系統,在(zai)臨江(jiang)水(shui)道(dao)口(kou)又修(xiu)筑了(le)(le)(le)12座水(shui)窗,從(cong)而解決了(le)(le)(le)年(nian)(nian)(nian)年(nian)(nian)(nian)江(jiang)水(shui)倒(dao)灌(guan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)困境。明(ming)代洪(hong)武(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)創(chuang)建(jian)(jian)大(da)明(ming)皇朝(chao)以后(hou),皇帝(di)朱(zhu)元璋提出(chu)“高(gao)筑墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)、廣積糧、緩稱(cheng)王(wang)”的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)策(ce)略(lve),下令各州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)、縣筑城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang),現存全國各地(di)(di)保留下來的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)都是(shi)(shi)那(nei)時(shi)興建(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),唯獨贛(gan)(gan)州(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)(zhou)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang)(qiang)是(shi)(shi)北宋(song)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),這(zhe)(zhe)(zhe)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)份寶貴的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)文(wen)化(hua)遺產。
城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)后經南宋(song)、元、明(ming)、清、民國,歷(li)時900多年的(de)(de)(de)不斷修繕、加固(gu),使(shi)贛州城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)形成(cheng)了一(yi)道周長(chang)13華(hua)里,高大雄偉的(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。而且護城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)河、墻(qiang)垛、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓、警鋪、馬面、炮城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)等設施(shi)齊全,整個城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池共有(you)西津(jin)門、鎮南門、百勝門、建春(chun)門、涌金(jin)(jin)門5座(zuo)(zuo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門,其中前3座(zuo)(zuo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門還(huan)(huan)有(you)二重(zhong)或三(san)重(zhong)甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。清朝(chao)咸豐年間,為(wei)了防止太(tai)平(ping)軍攻(gong)(gong)(gong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),又(you)在贛州城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)主要交通要道口興建了東門、小南門、大南門、西津(jin)門、八(ba)鏡臺(tai)5座(zuo)(zuo)炮城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。贛州因城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)池非常堅(jian)固(gu),又(you)有(you)江水相助,易守難攻(gong)(gong)(gong),有(you)“鐵城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)贛州”之稱。太(tai)平(ping)軍兩次攻(gong)(gong)(gong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),中央蘇區時期(qi)紅(hong)軍六次攻(gong)(gong)(gong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),都沒(mei)有(you)攻(gong)(gong)(gong)破。現存保留下來(lai)的(de)(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門還(huan)(huan)有(you)北門、西津(jin)門、建春(chun)門、涌金(jin)(jin)門4座(zuo)(zuo);保存完好的(de)(de)(de)炮城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)有(you)八(ba)境臺(tai)和西津(jin)門炮城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng);古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)有(you)3600米。這些(xie)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門不僅成(cheng)為(wei)今天的(de)(de)(de)游(you)覽景點,而且至(zhi)今還(huan)(huan)在為(wei)贛州防洪發揮重(zhong)要作用,贛州市政(zheng)府每年還(huan)(huan)撥出一(yi)定經費維護古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)。
尤為珍貴的是(shi),在古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻上保留有(you)(you)(you)(you)數以萬(wan)計的帶有(you)(you)(you)(you)文(wen)(wen)(wen)字的城(cheng)(cheng)磚,這種磚被稱為銘文(wen)(wen)(wen)磚,上面載有(you)(you)(you)(you)不(bu)(bu)同(tong)時代的不(bu)(bu)同(tong)內(nei)容(rong),主要的是(shi)××年(nian)、××督造、××窯燒造等,據市博物(wu)館調查統計,共有(you)(you)(you)(you)各(ge)種不(bu)(bu)同(tong)內(nei)容(rong)的銘文(wen)(wen)(wen)城(cheng)(cheng)磚521種,早的一(yi)(yi)種銘文(wen)(wen)(wen)磚記有(you)(you)(you)(you)北宋(song)熙(xi)寧二年(nian)(1069年(nian)),晚的一(yi)(yi)種銘文(wen)(wen)(wen)磚記于民國(guo)(guo)四年(nian)(1915年(nian))。這一(yi)(yi)傳(chuan)統一(yi)(yi)直保留至今(jin),成為贛州(zhou)的一(yi)(yi)部(bu)歷(li)史巨著,記載著贛州(zhou)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)的興衰、嬗變,充分體現(xian)了傳(chuan)統建(jian)筑(zhu)風格和規劃(hua)思想。是(shi)顯示中國(guo)(guo)歷(li)史文(wen)(wen)(wen)化特色的標志性建(jian)筑(zhu)。它對于研究我國(guo)(guo)古(gu)代的城(cheng)(cheng)市建(jian)設(she),有(you)(you)(you)(you)著十分重(zhong)要的歷(li)史價(jia)值。1996年(nian),國(guo)(guo)務院將贛州(zhou)古(gu)城(cheng)(cheng)墻列(lie)入(ru)全國(guo)(guo)重(zhong)點文(wen)(wen)(wen)物(wu)保護單(dan)位。
解放后(hou)(hou)經(jing)過實測全長6900米(mi),平均高(gao)度5米(mi),厚6.5米(mi),有鎮(zhen)南、西(xi)津(jin)(jin)、涌金、建春、百勝(sheng)五門(men)。1958年拆除(chu)百勝(sheng)門(men)經(jing)鎮(zhen)南門(men)至(zhi)西(xi)津(jin)(jin)門(men)的南段城墻(qiang)后(hou)(hou),現(xian)存沿(yan)江(jiang)(jiang)的東西(xi)兩段,從西(xi)津(jin)(jin)門(men)沿(yan)章江(jiang)(jiang)至(zhi)八境(jing)臺(tai)(tai),從八境(jing)臺(tai)(tai)沿(yan)貢江(jiang)(jiang)經(jing)涌金門(men)、建春門(men)至(zhi)原百勝(sheng)門(men)旁、今東河(he)大橋止,共3664米(mi)。另外,南段古(gu)(gu)城墻(qiang)沿(yan)拜(bai)將臺(tai)(tai)段還有52米(mi),1990年10月(yue)又(you)暴露(lu)贛州養濟(ji)院(yuan)南的城墻(qiang)墻(qiang)基41米(mi)。經(jing)贛州市(shi)博物館1990年調查,現(xian)存古(gu)(gu)城墻(qiang)中(zhong),宋石墻(qiang)25.25米(mi),宋磚墻(qiang)19.80米(mi)和養濟(ji)院(yuan)南宋磚墻(qiang)基41米(mi),基本上是(shi)原墻(qiang)原貌(mao),其余部(bu)分多歷代(dai)維修(xiu),除(chu)被蔓草雜樹掩(yan)蓋部(bu)分,宋代(dai)遺存或(huo)許在墻(qiang)內還待發現(xian)外,多數已混雜不清了。但3664米(mi)整體規(gui)模宏偉壯(zhuang)麗,令人(ren)嘆為觀止。