狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti),香氣四逸,那(nei)(nei)感覺(jue)真是妙不可(ke)言。說起(qi)(qi)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti),那(nei)(nei)還真有一(yi)(yi)段歷史:相傳宋(song)淳(chun)祐四年(nian)(nian),同里(li)人(ren)魏(wei)(wei)汝賢高(gao)中(zhong)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)。魏(wei)(wei)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)特別喜歡(huan)吃紅(hong)(hong)燒(shao)(shao)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti),到了清光緒年(nian)(nian)間,退思園主(zhu)人(ren)任(ren)蘭(lan)生(sheng)因仰慕魏(wei)(wei)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan),特聘名廚燒(shao)(shao)制紅(hong)(hong)燒(shao)(shao)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti),作(zuo)為家宴(yan)主(zhu)菜,雅稱(cheng)狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)。生(sheng)產狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)原(yuan)料規格一(yi)(yi)般在1—1.25公(gong)斤。“先是把蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)放水里(li)煮(zhu)(zhu),去毛后(hou)加(jia)入18味中(zhong)草(cao)藥煮(zhu)(zhu)開,然后(hou)用(yong)(yong)文火燜燒(shao)(shao)。一(yi)(yi)個大鍋(guo)一(yi)(yi)次(ci)可(ke)以煮(zhu)(zhu)80只(zhi)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang),大概需(xu)要4個小時(shi)。”狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)制作(zuo)時(shi),煮(zhu)(zhu)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)一(yi)(yi)定要用(yong)(yong)鐵(tie)(tie)鍋(guo),鐵(tie)(tie)鍋(guo)能(neng)夠吸(xi)收(shou)燒(shao)(shao)煮(zhu)(zhu)過程中(zhong)產生(sheng)的(de)(de)水分,另外,還能(neng)把蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)中(zhong)的(de)(de)脂肪蒸出來,這樣燒(shao)(shao)出來的(de)(de)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)才能(neng)食而不膩(ni),酥(su)而不爛。“別小看那(nei)(nei)18味中(zhong)草(cao)藥,它們(men)還能(neng)起(qi)(qi)到防腐的(de)(de)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)!至于(yu)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)的(de)(de)食用(yong)(yong)方法,直接把真空(kong)包裝(zhuang)好的(de)(de)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)連袋子一(yi)(yi)起(qi)(qi)放在水里(li)煮(zhu)(zhu)開即(ji)可(ke)食用(yong)(yong),這樣湯(tang)不容易燒(shao)(shao)干,還更(geng)入味。如何將蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)去骨(gu)(gu)(gu)剖開:先用(yong)(yong)手拎起(qi)(qi)一(yi)(yi)只(zhi)蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang),從兩根(gen)貫穿整只(zhi)豬蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)的(de)(de)長(chang)骨(gu)(gu)(gu)中(zhong),將一(yi)(yi)根(gen)細(xi)骨(gu)(gu)(gu)輕輕抽(chou)出,以骨(gu)(gu)(gu)為刀(dao),蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)就被順順當當剖開了。這根(gen)骨(gu)(gu)(gu)頭(tou)后(hou)人(ren)稱(cheng)之(zhi)為“狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)刀(dao)”。在“金(jin)榜狀(zhuang)(zhuang)元(yuan)坊”內,買蹄(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)(ti)髈(bang)(bang)(bang)(bang)的(de)(de)游客排(pai)成(cheng)幾(ji)道長(chang)隊,都想回去討(tao)個好彩頭(tou)。
狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti),香氣四(si)逸,那感(gan)覺真(zhen)(zhen)是妙(miao)不(bu)可言(yan)。說起狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti),那還(huan)(huan)真(zhen)(zhen)有(you)一(yi)(yi)段歷史:相傳宋淳祐四(si)年,同(tong)(tong)里(li)人魏(wei)汝賢高(gao)中狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)。魏(wei)狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)特(te)別喜(xi)歡吃紅燒(shao)(shao)蹄(ti),到了清(qing)光(guang)緒(xu)年間,退思園(yuan)主人任蘭生因(yin)仰慕(mu)魏(wei)狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan),特(te)聘名廚燒(shao)(shao)制紅燒(shao)(shao)蹄(ti),作(zuo)為家(jia)宴主菜,雅稱“狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti)”。當時(shi),狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)洪鈞(jun)及(ji)妾賽金花等人常(chang)來品(pin)嘗。如今(jin)的(de)(de)狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti)雖然在(zai)做(zuo)法上和過(guo)去有(you)了很大的(de)(de)不(bu)同(tong)(tong),但在(zai)口味(wei)上卻是更勝(sheng)一(yi)(yi)籌。生產狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti)的(de)(de)原料規格一(yi)(yi)般在(zai)1—1.25公斤。“先是把蹄(ti)髈(bang)放水里(li)煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),去毛(mao)后(hou)加入18味(wei)中草(cao)藥煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)開,然后(hou)用(yong)文火燜燒(shao)(shao)。一(yi)(yi)個大鍋一(yi)(yi)次可以煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)80只蹄(ti)髈(bang),大概需(xu)要(yao)4個小時(shi)。"狀(zhuang)元(yuan)(yuan)蹄(ti)”制作(zuo)時(shi),煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)蹄(ti)髈(bang)一(yi)(yi)定要(yao)用(yong)鐵鍋,鐵鍋能夠吸收燒(shao)(shao)煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)過(guo)程(cheng)中產生的(de)(de)水分,另外,還(huan)(huan)能把蹄(ti)髈(bang)中的(de)(de)脂(zhi)肪蒸出來,這樣燒(shao)(shao)出來的(de)(de)蹄(ti)髈(bang)才能食而(er)(er)不(bu)膩,酥而(er)(er)不(bu)爛。“別小看(kan)那18味(wei)中草(cao)藥,它(ta)們還(huan)(huan)能起到防腐的(de)(de)作(zuo)用(yong)!至于(yu)蹄(ti)髈(bang)的(de)(de)食用(yong)方(fang)法,直接把真(zhen)(zhen)空包裝好(hao)的(de)(de)蹄(ti)髈(bang)連(lian)袋子一(yi)(yi)起放在(zai)水里(li)煮(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)開即可食用(yong),這樣湯不(bu)容易燒(shao)(shao)干,還(huan)(huan)更入味(wei)。