長城(cheng)第(di)一(yi)(yi)墩(dun),又稱討賴河(he)墩(dun),是(shi)嘉峪(yu)關西(xi)長城(cheng)最南端的一(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺,也是(shi)明代萬里(li)長城(cheng)最西(xi)端的一(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺。長城(cheng)第(di)一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)于明嘉靖十八年(公(gong)元1539)年由肅州(zhou)兵備道李涵(han)監筑,北距關城(cheng)7.5公(gong)里(li),墩(dun)臺矗立于討賴河(he)邊近56米高的懸崖之上。
麓(lu),因山而名。明(ming)洪武五(wu)年(nian)(1372)修(xiu)筑萬(wan)里(li)長城時置。當時明(ming)征虜大將(jiang)軍(jun)馮勝看中嘉峪山西北麓(lu)的險要地勢,選為河西第(di)一(yi)(yi)隘口(kou),開始筑城設關,以后經歷一(yi)(yi)百多年(nian)時間(jian)擴(kuo)建,才形成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)比較完整(zheng)的防(fang)(fang)御體系。明(ming)弘治年(nian)間(jian),為防(fang)(fang)吐(tu)魯番東侵(qin),曾進行重修(xiu)。這關雄(xiong)偉(wei)壯觀,號(hao)稱“天下第(di)一(yi)(yi)雄(xiong)關”。
萬里長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿(yan)線分布著許多(duo)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),其中(zhong)規(gui)(gui)模較(jiao)大(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)有兩座(zuo)(zuo):一座(zuo)(zuo)是(shi)(shi)東(dong)端的(de)(de)(de)山海(hai)關(guan)(guan),另一座(zuo)(zuo)就是(shi)(shi)西(xi)端的(de)(de)(de)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan),而后(hou)者經(jing)前者猶有過之(zhi)(zhi),所以(yi)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)是(shi)(shi)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的(de)(de)(de)較(jiao)大(da)(da)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),也是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)國規(gui)(gui)模大(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai)。但(dan)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)初(chu)建時不過是(shi)(shi)一座(zuo)(zuo)6米(mi)(mi)(mi)高的(de)(de)(de)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占地2500平方米(mi)(mi)(mi)。而現存的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總面積33.500余平方米(mi)(mi)(mi),比原(yuan)來的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)數倍。它(ta)由外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和(he)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組合而成(cheng)(cheng),關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)(chang)(chang)733米(mi)(mi)(mi),就中(zhong)內城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)(chang)(chang)640米(mi)(mi)(mi),面積為原(yuan)先的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)小。內城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)寬東(dong)窄,略呈梯形,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高9米(mi)(mi)(mi),東(dong)西(xi)開“光化門(men)(men)(men)”和(he)“柔遠門(men)(men)(men)”兩門(men)(men)(men)。門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)各(ge)筑(zhu)有甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)對稱,三層三檐五間(jian)式,周圍有廊,單檐歇山頂,高17米(mi)(mi)(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四(si)隅有角樓(lou)、南、北(bei)(bei)墻中(zhong)段有敵(di)樓(lou),一層三間(jian)式帶前廊。兩門(men)(men)(men)內北(bei)(bei)側(ce)有馬道(dao)達城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正(zheng)中(zhong)有一官井,舊(jiu)有亭,今已廢。西(xi)門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)套(tao)筑(zhu)一道(dao)凸形城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻,構成(cheng)(cheng)一個羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這就是(shi)(shi)外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比內城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高2.7米(mi)(mi)(mi)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正(zheng)中(zhong)大(da)(da)門(men)(men)(men)額刻“嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)”三個大(da)(da)字(zi)。門(men)(men)(men)頂原(yuan)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),與東(dong)西(xi)二樓(lou)形制相同,三樓(lou)東(dong)西(xi)成(cheng)(cheng)一線。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)被(bei)毀。西(xi)面羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚(zhuan)砌,東(dong)、南、北(bei)(bei)有土筑(zhu)圍墻,連接長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭門(men)(men)(men)重(zhong)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成(cheng)(cheng)并守之(zhi)(zhi)勢。東(dong)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有文昌(chang)閣(ge)、關(guan)(guan)帝廟、戲樓(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內靠北(bei)(bei)有游擊衙(ya)門(men)(men)(men)府一座(zuo)(zuo),都是(shi)(shi)清代建筑(zhu)。新中(zhong)國成(cheng)(cheng)立后(hou),關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾多(duo)次維修加固,至今保存完(wan)好(hao)。
長城(cheng)第(di)一墩嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)位(wei)于甘(gan)肅省河西(xi)(xi)走廊(lang)的西(xi)(xi)端(duan),東經98°17′、北(bei)緯39°47′,甘(gan)肅嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市向西(xi)(xi)5公里(li)處,是(shi)明長城(cheng)西(xi)(xi)端(duan)的第(di)一重關(guan)(guan)(guan),也是(shi)古代“絲綢之路”的交通要(yao)沖。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市區西(xi)(xi)南(nan)6公里(li)處,位(wei)于嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最狹(xia)窄的山(shan)(shan)谷(gu)(gu)中部(bu),地(di)勢(shi)最高(gao)的嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼(yi)的城(cheng)墻橫穿沙漠戈壁,向北(bei)8公里(li)連黑山(shan)(shan)懸壁長城(cheng),向南(nan)7公里(li),是(shi)明代萬里(li)長城(cheng)西(xi)(xi)端(duan)主(zhu)宰(zai),自古為(wei)河西(xi)(xi)第(di)一隘口(kou)。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng),位(wei)于嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最狹(xia)窄的山(shan)(shan)谷(gu)(gu)中部(bu),地(di)勢(shi)最高(gao)的嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼(yi)的城(cheng)墻橫穿沙漠戈壁。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)以地(di)勢(shi)險(xian)要(yao),巍(wei)峨壯觀著稱于世(shi)。與萬里(li)之外(wai)的“天下(xia)第(di)一關(guan)(guan)(guan)”——山(shan)(shan)海關(guan)(guan)(guan)遙相呼應,聞名天下(xia)。
明代,嘉峪關(guan)管轄著“腹里(li)、沿(yan)邊、境(jing)外墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺(tai)(tai)三十九座”。關(guan)內墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺(tai)(tai)林立,縱橫交織(zhi),相(xiang)互了望(wang),互通情報。長(chang)城第(di)一墩(dun)(dun)(dun),是關(guan)南主要的一座墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺(tai)(tai),擔負著傳遞關(guan)南及祁連山諸口軍(jun)事(shi)信(xin)息的任務。設有(you)塢(wu)、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝、食宿、積(ji)薪等物,配備有(you)一定數(shu)量的守兵。
長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)景(jing)區自(zi)然景(jing)致壯觀,東臨酒(jiu)泉,西連荒漠,北(bei)依嘉峪(yu)(yu),南(nan)(nan)望祁(qi)連,討賴(lai)(lai)河(he)水(shui)滔滔東去(qu)。極目南(nan)(nan)眺,山(shan)峰(feng)終年潔白(bai),襯映著(zhu)藍色天空,更覺清新如(ru)畫。正(zheng)所謂“余收遠(yuan)岫和云濕,風度疏林(lin)帶(dai)舞飄”。景(jing)區面(mian)積(ji)約3.22平方公里。景(jing)區包括長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)、綜(zong)合服務區、討賴(lai)(lai)河(he)滑(hua)索、討賴(lai)(lai)客棧、天險吊橋、“醉臥沙場”雕塑群、“中(zhong)華(hua)龍(long)林(lin)”等內(nei)容(rong)。長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)于明嘉靖十(shi)八年(公元(yuan)1539)年由肅州兵備道(dao)李(li)涵監筑(zhu)(zhu),北(bei)距關城(cheng)7.5公里,墩(dun)臺(tai)矗立于討賴(lai)(lai)河(he)邊近56米(mi)高的(de)(de)(de)懸(xuan)崖之上(shang)。對于它的(de)(de)(de)雄險,著(zhu)名長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)專家羅哲文先生曾經有過生動的(de)(de)(de)吟(yin)詠:“嘉峪(yu)(yu)關,雄險畫皆(jie)難,墩(dun)堡遙(yao)(yao)遙(yao)(yao)相互望,長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)道(dao)道(dao)連關山(shan),猿臂也難攀”。在(zai)(zai)一(yi)萬(wan)多華(hua)里的(de)(de)(de)明代長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)線上(shang),墩(dun)臺(tai)無數,密如(ru)繁星,而嘉峪(yu)(yu)關長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)與河(he)北(bei)山(shan)海(hai)關渤海(hai)之濱的(de)(de)(de)“老龍(long)頭”遙(yao)(yao)相呼應(ying),共(gong)同構筑(zhu)(zhu)起中(zhong)華(hua)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)“龍(long)”的(de)(de)(de)首尾,成就(jiu)了(le)中(zhong)華(hua)民族“龍(long)”的(de)(de)(de)美名。如(ru)果說長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)是(shi)中(zhong)華(hua)民族的(de)(de)(de)豐碑(bei),那么長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)就(jiu)是(shi)這(zhe)座(zuo)豐碑(bei)崛起的(de)(de)(de)地(di)方。現在(zai)(zai),這(zhe)座(zuo)墩(dun)臺(tai)殘(can)高約10米(mi),其底部呈不規則(ze)正(zheng)方形,底寬14米(mi),內(nei)部仍(reng)呈正(zheng)方形,長(chang)(chang)(chang)寬均為6米(mi)。用黃(huang)土夯(hang)(hang)筑(zhu)(zhu)而成,夯(hang)(hang)土層厚(hou)10~20厘(li)米(mi)。“長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)第(di)(di)一(yi)墩(dun)”碑(bei)文由已故(gu)的(de)(de)(de)西路(lu)軍將領魏傳(chuan)統題(ti)寫,字跡飄逸灑脫(tuo),清秀雋(jun)永。
依托(tuo)長(chang)城(cheng)第一墩開發(fa)建(jian)設的旅游景區,自然(ran)景致壯觀(guan),東邊是(shi)群樓林立的嘉(jia)峪(yu)關市區,西邊是(shi)浩瀚無際的大(da)漠戈壁(bi),北(bei)邊與雄偉壯觀(guan)的嘉(jia)峪(yu)關相連,南面為(wei)連綿起伏的祁(qi)連雪山,腳(jiao)下是(shi)發(fa)源于祁(qi)連山的討賴(lai)河。長(chang)城(cheng)第一墩旅游景區,以長(chang)城(cheng)文化和(he)絲(si)綢之路文化為(wei)內涵,以戈壁(bi)風(feng)光和(he)西北(bei)民俗風(feng)情為(wei)基礎,是(shi)一處(chu)觀(guan)光、探險、休閑、娛樂、懷古游歷和(he)拍攝影視場景的好地方。