長城(cheng)(cheng)第一墩,又稱討賴(lai)河(he)墩,是嘉(jia)峪關西(xi)長城(cheng)(cheng)最南(nan)端(duan)(duan)的一座(zuo)墩臺(tai),也是明(ming)代萬里長城(cheng)(cheng)最西(xi)端(duan)(duan)的一座(zuo)墩臺(tai)。長城(cheng)(cheng)第一墩于(yu)明(ming)嘉(jia)靖十八(ba)年(公元1539)年由肅州兵備道李涵監筑,北距關城(cheng)(cheng)7.5公里,墩臺(tai)矗立(li)于(yu)討賴(lai)河(he)邊近56米高的懸崖之上。
麓,因山(shan)而名。明洪(hong)武五年(1372)修筑(zhu)萬里長城(cheng)時(shi)(shi)置。當時(shi)(shi)明征虜大將軍馮勝看中嘉峪山(shan)西北(bei)麓的險要地(di)勢,選為河西第一隘口,開始筑(zhu)城(cheng)設關(guan),以后經歷一百多年時(shi)(shi)間擴建(jian),才形(xing)成一個比較完(wan)整的防御體系。明弘治年間,為防吐(tu)魯番東侵,曾進行重修。這關(guan)雄偉壯觀(guan),號(hao)稱(cheng)“天下第一雄關(guan)”。
萬里長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿線分布(bu)著許多關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘,其中規(gui)模較大(da)的(de)有(you)(you)兩(liang)座(zuo)(zuo):一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)是(shi)東(dong)端的(de)山海關(guan)(guan)(guan),另一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)就是(shi)西(xi)(xi)端的(de)嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan),而(er)后者(zhe)經前者(zhe)猶有(you)(you)過之,所以嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)是(shi)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的(de)較大(da)關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘,也是(shi)中國(guo)(guo)規(gui)模大(da)的(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘。但嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)初建(jian)時不過是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo)6米(mi)高(gao)的(de)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占(zhan)地2500平方米(mi)。而(er)現存的(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總(zong)面(mian)積33.500余平方米(mi),比(bi)原來(lai)的(de)大(da)數倍。它由外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組合而(er)成(cheng)(cheng),關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)733米(mi),就中內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長(chang)640米(mi),面(mian)積為原先的(de)大(da)小(xiao)。內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)(xi)寬東(dong)窄,略呈(cheng)梯(ti)形(xing),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)9米(mi),東(dong)西(xi)(xi)開“光化門(men)(men)(men)”和“柔遠(yuan)門(men)(men)(men)”兩(liang)門(men)(men)(men)。門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)各筑(zhu)有(you)(you)甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)對(dui)稱(cheng),三(san)(san)層(ceng)三(san)(san)檐(yan)五間式(shi),周圍有(you)(you)廊,單檐(yan)歇(xie)山頂,高(gao)17米(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四隅有(you)(you)角(jiao)樓(lou)(lou)、南、北墻中段有(you)(you)敵樓(lou)(lou),一(yi)(yi)(yi)層(ceng)三(san)(san)間式(shi)帶前廊。兩(liang)門(men)(men)(men)內(nei)(nei)北側有(you)(you)馬道達(da)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂。關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)官井,舊有(you)(you)亭(ting),今已廢。西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)(men)外(wai)(wai)套筑(zhu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)道凸(tu)形(xing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻,構成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)羅(luo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這(zhe)就是(shi)外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比(bi)內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)2.7米(mi)。外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中大(da)門(men)(men)(men)額刻“嘉峪(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)”三(san)(san)個(ge)大(da)字(zi)。門(men)(men)(men)頂原有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou),與東(dong)西(xi)(xi)二樓(lou)(lou)形(xing)制相同,三(san)(san)樓(lou)(lou)東(dong)西(xi)(xi)成(cheng)(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)線。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)(lou)被毀。西(xi)(xi)面(mian)羅(luo)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚砌,東(dong)、南、北有(you)(you)土筑(zhu)圍墻,連接(jie)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭門(men)(men)(men)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成(cheng)(cheng)并守(shou)之勢。東(dong)甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)有(you)(you)文(wen)昌閣、關(guan)(guan)(guan)帝廟(miao)、戲樓(lou)(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)(nei)靠北有(you)(you)游擊(ji)衙門(men)(men)(men)府一(yi)(yi)(yi)座(zuo)(zuo),都是(shi)清(qing)代建(jian)筑(zhu)。新中國(guo)(guo)成(cheng)(cheng)立后,關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾多次維修加固(gu),至(zhi)今保(bao)存完好。
長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一墩嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)位(wei)(wei)于(yu)(yu)甘(gan)肅(su)省河(he)西走廊的(de)西端,東(dong)經98°17′、北緯39°47′,甘(gan)肅(su)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市(shi)向(xiang)西5公(gong)里(li)(li)處,是(shi)明長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西端的(de)第一重(zhong)關(guan)(guan)(guan),也是(shi)古代“絲(si)綢之路”的(de)交通(tong)要(yao)沖。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)市(shi)區西南(nan)6公(gong)里(li)(li)處,位(wei)(wei)于(yu)(yu)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)(zui)(zui)狹(xia)窄(zhai)的(de)山(shan)谷中部,地勢最(zui)(zui)(zui)高的(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)上,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩翼的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻橫穿(chuan)沙漠(mo)戈壁,向(xiang)北8公(gong)里(li)(li)連黑山(shan)懸壁長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),向(xiang)南(nan)7公(gong)里(li)(li),是(shi)明代萬里(li)(li)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西端主宰,自古為河(he)西第一隘口。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),位(wei)(wei)于(yu)(yu)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)(zui)(zui)狹(xia)窄(zhai)的(de)山(shan)谷中部,地勢最(zui)(zui)(zui)高的(de)嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)上,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)兩翼的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻橫穿(chuan)沙漠(mo)戈壁。嘉(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)以地勢險要(yao),巍峨壯觀(guan)著(zhu)稱于(yu)(yu)世。與(yu)萬里(li)(li)之外的(de)“天下(xia)第一關(guan)(guan)(guan)”——山(shan)海關(guan)(guan)(guan)遙(yao)相呼(hu)應,聞(wen)名天下(xia)。
明代(dai),嘉峪關(guan)管(guan)轄著“腹里、沿邊(bian)、境外墩臺(tai)(tai)三(san)十九座”。關(guan)內墩臺(tai)(tai)林(lin)立,縱橫交織,相互(hu)了望(wang),互(hu)通情報。長(chang)城第一(yi)墩,是關(guan)南(nan)主(zhu)要(yao)的(de)(de)一(yi)座墩臺(tai)(tai),擔負著傳遞關(guan)南(nan)及祁連山諸口(kou)軍事信息的(de)(de)任務(wu)。設有塢、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝、食宿、積薪等物,配備有一(yi)定數(shu)量的(de)(de)守兵。
長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)景(jing)(jing)區自然景(jing)(jing)致壯觀,東(dong)臨酒泉,西連荒漠(mo),北(bei)依嘉(jia)峪,南望祁連,討賴(lai)河水滔滔東(dong)去。極目(mu)南眺,山(shan)峰終年潔(jie)白,襯(chen)映著(zhu)藍色天空(kong),更覺清(qing)新如畫。正所謂(wei)“余收(shou)遠岫和(he)云濕,風度疏林帶(dai)舞(wu)飄(piao)(piao)”。景(jing)(jing)區面(mian)積(ji)約(yue)3.22平(ping)方(fang)公(gong)里。景(jing)(jing)區包括長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)、綜合服務區、討賴(lai)河滑索、討賴(lai)客(ke)棧、天險吊橋、“醉臥沙場”雕塑群、“中華(hua)(hua)龍林”等內容。長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)于明嘉(jia)靖十八年(公(gong)元1539)年由肅(su)州兵備道李涵監筑,北(bei)距關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)7.5公(gong)里,墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)臺矗立于討賴(lai)河邊近56米(mi)高的(de)懸(xuan)崖之(zhi)上(shang)。對于它的(de)雄險,著(zhu)名(ming)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)專家羅哲文先生曾經有(you)過生動的(de)吟詠:“嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan),雄險畫皆難,墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)堡遙(yao)遙(yao)相互望,長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)道道連關(guan)(guan)(guan)山(shan),猿臂(bei)也難攀”。在(zai)一(yi)萬多華(hua)(hua)里的(de)明代長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)線上(shang),墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)臺無數,密如繁(fan)星,而(er)(er)嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)與河北(bei)山(shan)海關(guan)(guan)(guan)渤海之(zhi)濱的(de)“老(lao)龍頭(tou)”遙(yao)相呼應,共同(tong)構(gou)筑起中華(hua)(hua)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“龍”的(de)首(shou)尾,成(cheng)就(jiu)了中華(hua)(hua)民族(zu)“龍”的(de)美名(ming)。如果說(shuo)長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)中華(hua)(hua)民族(zu)的(de)豐碑,那么長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)就(jiu)是(shi)這(zhe)座豐碑崛起的(de)地方(fang)。現在(zai),這(zhe)座墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)臺殘高約(yue)10米(mi),其底部呈不規(gui)則正方(fang)形,底寬14米(mi),內部仍呈正方(fang)形,長(chang)(chang)(chang)寬均(jun)為6米(mi)。用黃土(tu)夯(hang)筑而(er)(er)成(cheng),夯(hang)土(tu)層厚10~20厘米(mi)。“長(chang)(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)一(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)(dun)”碑文由已故的(de)西路(lu)軍將領魏傳統(tong)題寫,字跡飄(piao)(piao)逸灑脫,清(qing)秀雋(jun)永(yong)。
依托長城第(di)一墩(dun)開發建設的(de)(de)(de)旅游景(jing)(jing)區,自然景(jing)(jing)致壯觀,東邊(bian)是群樓林立的(de)(de)(de)嘉峪關(guan)市區,西邊(bian)是浩瀚(han)無際的(de)(de)(de)大漠(mo)戈(ge)(ge)壁(bi)(bi),北邊(bian)與雄偉壯觀的(de)(de)(de)嘉峪關(guan)相連,南面為連綿起伏的(de)(de)(de)祁連雪(xue)山,腳(jiao)下是發源于祁連山的(de)(de)(de)討(tao)賴河。長城第(di)一墩(dun)旅游景(jing)(jing)區,以(yi)長城文(wen)化(hua)和(he)絲綢之路文(wen)化(hua)為內(nei)涵,以(yi)戈(ge)(ge)壁(bi)(bi)風(feng)光(guang)和(he)西北民俗風(feng)情為基礎(chu),是一處觀光(guang)、探險、休閑、娛樂、懷(huai)古游歷和(he)拍(pai)攝影視場景(jing)(jing)的(de)(de)(de)好地(di)方。