長(chang)城(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)(yi)墩(dun),又稱討賴河(he)墩(dun),是嘉(jia)峪關西長(chang)城(cheng)最南端(duan)(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺,也是明代(dai)萬里長(chang)城(cheng)最西端(duan)(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺。長(chang)城(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)(yi)墩(dun)于明嘉(jia)靖十八(ba)年(公(gong)元1539)年由肅州兵備道(dao)李涵監筑(zhu),北距關城(cheng)7.5公(gong)里,墩(dun)臺矗立于討賴河(he)邊(bian)近56米高(gao)的(de)懸崖之(zhi)上。
麓,因山而名(ming)。明(ming)洪武五年(nian)(1372)修筑(zhu)萬(wan)里(li)長(chang)城時置。當時明(ming)征虜(lu)大將軍馮勝看中嘉峪山西北麓的險要地勢,選為河西第一(yi)隘口,開始筑(zhu)城設關(guan),以(yi)后經(jing)歷(li)一(yi)百多(duo)年(nian)時間擴(kuo)建(jian),才形成一(yi)個比較(jiao)完整的防御體系。明(ming)弘(hong)治(zhi)年(nian)間,為防吐魯番東侵,曾進行重修。這關(guan)雄偉壯觀,號(hao)稱“天(tian)下第一(yi)雄關(guan)”。
萬里(li)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿(yan)線分布著許多(duo)關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘,其中(zhong)(zhong)規模較大的(de)有(you)(you)兩座:一(yi)(yi)(yi)座是東(dong)(dong)端(duan)的(de)山(shan)海關(guan)(guan)(guan),另一(yi)(yi)(yi)座就是西(xi)(xi)端(duan)的(de)嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan),而后者(zhe)(zhe)經前(qian)者(zhe)(zhe)猶有(you)(you)過(guo)之,所(suo)以嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan)是長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的(de)較大關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘,也(ye)是中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)規模大的(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)隘。但嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan)初建時(shi)不(bu)過(guo)是一(yi)(yi)(yi)座6米(mi)(mi)(mi)高的(de)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占地2500平方米(mi)(mi)(mi)。而現存(cun)的(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總面(mian)積(ji)33.500余平方米(mi)(mi)(mi),比原(yuan)(yuan)來的(de)大數倍。它(ta)由(you)外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組合而成(cheng),關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長733米(mi)(mi)(mi),就中(zhong)(zhong)內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周長640米(mi)(mi)(mi),面(mian)積(ji)為原(yuan)(yuan)先(xian)的(de)大小。內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)(xi)寬東(dong)(dong)窄,略呈(cheng)梯形,城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高9米(mi)(mi)(mi),東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)開“光(guang)化門(men)”和“柔遠(yuan)門(men)”兩門(men)。門(men)外(wai)(wai)各筑有(you)(you)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)對稱(cheng),三層三檐(yan)五間式(shi),周圍有(you)(you)廊(lang)(lang),單檐(yan)歇(xie)山(shan)頂,高17米(mi)(mi)(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四隅有(you)(you)角樓(lou)、南、北(bei)(bei)墻(qiang)中(zhong)(zhong)段(duan)有(you)(you)敵樓(lou),一(yi)(yi)(yi)層三間式(shi)帶前(qian)廊(lang)(lang)。兩門(men)內(nei)北(bei)(bei)側有(you)(you)馬(ma)道達(da)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂。關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)官(guan)井,舊(jiu)有(you)(you)亭(ting),今已(yi)廢。西(xi)(xi)門(men)外(wai)(wai)套筑一(yi)(yi)(yi)道凸(tu)形城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),構成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這就是外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比內(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高2.7米(mi)(mi)(mi)。外(wai)(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)大門(men)額刻“嘉(jia)峪關(guan)(guan)(guan)”三個大字。門(men)頂原(yuan)(yuan)有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),與東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)二樓(lou)形制相同,三樓(lou)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)成(cheng)一(yi)(yi)(yi)線。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)被毀。西(xi)(xi)面(mian)羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚砌,東(dong)(dong)、南、北(bei)(bei)有(you)(you)土筑圍墻(qiang),連接長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭門(men)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成(cheng)并守之勢。東(dong)(dong)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)(wai)有(you)(you)文昌閣(ge)、關(guan)(guan)(guan)帝廟、戲樓(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)靠北(bei)(bei)有(you)(you)游擊衙門(men)府一(yi)(yi)(yi)座,都是清代建筑。新(xin)中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)成(cheng)立后,關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾多(duo)次維修加(jia)固,至今保存(cun)完好。
長城第一(yi)(yi)墩嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)位(wei)(wei)于(yu)甘肅省河西(xi)(xi)走廊的(de)(de)西(xi)(xi)端,東(dong)經98°17′、北(bei)緯39°47′,甘肅嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)市向西(xi)(xi)5公(gong)里處,是明長城西(xi)(xi)端的(de)(de)第一(yi)(yi)重(zhong)關(guan),也是古代“絲綢之路”的(de)(de)交(jiao)通要(yao)沖。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)市區西(xi)(xi)南6公(gong)里處,位(wei)(wei)于(yu)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)最(zui)狹(xia)窄的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)谷中(zhong)部,地(di)勢最(zui)高(gao)(gao)的(de)(de)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城關(guan)兩翼(yi)的(de)(de)城墻橫穿(chuan)沙(sha)漠(mo)戈壁(bi),向北(bei)8公(gong)里連黑山(shan)(shan)懸壁(bi)長城,向南7公(gong)里,是明代萬里長城西(xi)(xi)端主宰,自古為河西(xi)(xi)第一(yi)(yi)隘口。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)關(guan)城,位(wei)(wei)于(yu)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)最(zui)狹(xia)窄的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)谷中(zhong)部,地(di)勢最(zui)高(gao)(gao)的(de)(de)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山(shan)(shan)上,城關(guan)兩翼(yi)的(de)(de)城墻橫穿(chuan)沙(sha)漠(mo)戈壁(bi)。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)以地(di)勢險要(yao),巍峨壯(zhuang)觀(guan)著稱于(yu)世。與萬里之外(wai)的(de)(de)“天下(xia)第一(yi)(yi)關(guan)”——山(shan)(shan)海關(guan)遙相(xiang)呼應,聞名天下(xia)。
明代,嘉(jia)峪關管轄著“腹(fu)里、沿邊(bian)、境外墩(dun)(dun)臺三(san)十九座”。關內墩(dun)(dun)臺林立,縱橫(heng)交(jiao)織,相互了(le)望,互通(tong)情報。長城第一(yi)墩(dun)(dun),是(shi)關南主(zhu)要(yao)的一(yi)座墩(dun)(dun)臺,擔負著傳遞關南及祁連山諸口軍事信(xin)息(xi)的任務。設(she)有塢、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝(tuo)、食宿、積薪等物,配備有一(yi)定數量的守(shou)兵。
長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)景(jing)(jing)區(qu)自然景(jing)(jing)致壯觀,東(dong)臨酒泉,西連荒漠(mo),北(bei)依嘉(jia)峪,南望祁(qi)連,討(tao)(tao)賴河(he)(he)水滔滔東(dong)去。極目南眺(tiao),山(shan)峰終年(nian)潔白,襯映(ying)著藍色天空,更覺(jue)清新如畫。正(zheng)所謂(wei)“余收(shou)遠岫和(he)云濕(shi),風度疏林(lin)帶舞飄”。景(jing)(jing)區(qu)面積約(yue)3.22平方公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)。景(jing)(jing)區(qu)包括長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)、綜(zong)合服務區(qu)、討(tao)(tao)賴河(he)(he)滑(hua)索、討(tao)(tao)賴客(ke)棧(zhan)、天險吊橋、“醉臥沙(sha)場”雕塑群、“中(zhong)華(hua)龍(long)林(lin)”等內容。長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)于明(ming)(ming)嘉(jia)靖十八年(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元1539)年(nian)由(you)肅州兵備道李涵監(jian)筑(zhu),北(bei)距關城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)7.5公(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺矗(chu)立(li)于討(tao)(tao)賴河(he)(he)邊(bian)近(jin)56米高的(de)(de)懸(xuan)崖之上。對于它的(de)(de)雄險,著名長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)專(zhuan)家羅哲文先生曾經有(you)過生動的(de)(de)吟詠:“嘉(jia)峪關,雄險畫皆難(nan),墩(dun)(dun)(dun)堡遙遙相互望,長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)道道連關山(shan),猿臂也難(nan)攀”。在一(yi)(yi)萬多華(hua)里(li)(li)的(de)(de)明(ming)(ming)代長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)線(xian)上,墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺無數,密如繁星(xing),而嘉(jia)峪關長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)與河(he)(he)北(bei)山(shan)海關渤海之濱的(de)(de)“老龍(long)頭(tou)”遙相呼應,共同構筑(zhu)起(qi)中(zhong)華(hua)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“龍(long)”的(de)(de)首尾(wei),成就了中(zhong)華(hua)民族(zu)(zu)“龍(long)”的(de)(de)美名。如果說長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)是中(zhong)華(hua)民族(zu)(zu)的(de)(de)豐碑,那么長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)就是這(zhe)座豐碑崛起(qi)的(de)(de)地方。現在,這(zhe)座墩(dun)(dun)(dun)臺殘(can)高約(yue)10米,其底(di)部(bu)呈(cheng)不規則正(zheng)方形,底(di)寬14米,內部(bu)仍呈(cheng)正(zheng)方形,長(chang)寬均為6米。用黃土夯(hang)(hang)筑(zhu)而成,夯(hang)(hang)土層厚(hou)10~20厘(li)米。“長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)(dun)(dun)”碑文由(you)已故的(de)(de)西路軍將領(ling)魏傳統題寫,字跡飄逸灑脫,清秀(xiu)雋永。
依托長城第一墩開發建設的(de)(de)旅(lv)游(you)景區,自然景致壯觀,東邊是(shi)群樓(lou)林立的(de)(de)嘉峪關(guan)市區,西邊是(shi)浩瀚無際(ji)的(de)(de)大漠戈(ge)(ge)壁,北(bei)邊與雄偉壯觀的(de)(de)嘉峪關(guan)相連,南面(mian)為連綿起伏(fu)的(de)(de)祁連雪山,腳下是(shi)發源于祁連山的(de)(de)討賴河。長城第一墩旅(lv)游(you)景區,以長城文化和絲綢之路文化為內涵,以戈(ge)(ge)壁風光(guang)和西北(bei)民俗風情為基(ji)礎,是(shi)一處觀光(guang)、探(tan)險(xian)、休(xiu)閑、娛樂、懷古(gu)游(you)歷和拍攝影視場景的(de)(de)好(hao)地(di)方。