長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun),又(you)稱討(tao)賴河墩(dun),是(shi)嘉(jia)峪關西長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)最(zui)南端(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺,也(ye)是(shi)明代(dai)萬里(li)長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)最(zui)西端(duan)的(de)一(yi)(yi)座墩(dun)臺。長(chang)(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩(dun)于(yu)明嘉(jia)靖(jing)十八(ba)年(nian)(公元1539)年(nian)由肅州(zhou)兵備道李涵監筑,北距關城(cheng)(cheng)7.5公里(li),墩(dun)臺矗立于(yu)討(tao)賴河邊(bian)近56米高的(de)懸崖之(zhi)上。
麓,因山而(er)名。明洪武(wu)五(wu)年(nian)(1372)修(xiu)筑萬里長城時(shi)置(zhi)。當(dang)時(shi)明征虜大將軍馮勝(sheng)看中嘉(jia)峪山西北麓的(de)險(xian)要(yao)地勢,選為(wei)河西第(di)一隘口(kou),開始筑城設關,以后經歷一百多年(nian)時(shi)間擴建,才形(xing)成一個比(bi)較完整的(de)防御體系(xi)。明弘(hong)治年(nian)間,為(wei)防吐魯番東侵,曾進行(xing)重(zhong)修(xiu)。這關雄偉壯觀,號稱“天下(xia)第(di)一雄關”。
萬里(li)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿(yan)線分(fen)布(bu)著(zhu)許多關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),其中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)規模較(jiao)大(da)(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)有(you)兩(liang)座(zuo):一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)是東(dong)端的(de)(de)(de)山海(hai)關(guan)(guan),另一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)就(jiu)是西端的(de)(de)(de)嘉峪關(guan)(guan),而后者經前者猶有(you)過之(zhi),所以嘉峪關(guan)(guan)是長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)上的(de)(de)(de)較(jiao)大(da)(da)(da)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai),也(ye)是中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)規模大(da)(da)(da)的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)隘(ai)。但(dan)嘉峪關(guan)(guan)初(chu)建時不(bu)過是一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)6米(mi)(mi)高(gao)的(de)(de)(de)土城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),占地2500平方米(mi)(mi)。而現存的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)總(zong)面積(ji)33.500余平方米(mi)(mi),比(bi)原來的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)數倍。它由(you)外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)和(he)(he)甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)組(zu)合而成,關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周(zhou)長(chang)733米(mi)(mi),就(jiu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)周(zhou)長(chang)640米(mi)(mi),面積(ji)為原先的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)(da)小。內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)西寬東(dong)窄,略呈梯形(xing),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)9米(mi)(mi),東(dong)西開“光化(hua)門(men)(men)”和(he)(he)“柔遠門(men)(men)”兩(liang)門(men)(men)。門(men)(men)外(wai)各筑(zhu)有(you)甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)對稱,三(san)層三(san)檐五間式,周(zhou)圍(wei)有(you)廊(lang),單檐歇山頂(ding)(ding),高(gao)17米(mi)(mi)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)四隅有(you)角(jiao)樓(lou)、南(nan)、北(bei)墻(qiang)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)段有(you)敵樓(lou),一(yi)(yi)層三(san)間式帶(dai)前廊(lang)。兩(liang)門(men)(men)內(nei)(nei)北(bei)側有(you)馬道達(da)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)頂(ding)(ding)。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)有(you)一(yi)(yi)官(guan)井,舊(jiu)有(you)亭,今已廢。西門(men)(men)外(wai)套筑(zhu)一(yi)(yi)道凸形(xing)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),構(gou)成一(yi)(yi)個(ge)羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),這就(jiu)是外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)比(bi)內(nei)(nei)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高(gao)2.7米(mi)(mi)。外(wai)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)正中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)大(da)(da)(da)門(men)(men)額刻“嘉峪關(guan)(guan)”三(san)個(ge)大(da)(da)(da)字(zi)。門(men)(men)頂(ding)(ding)原有(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),與東(dong)西二樓(lou)形(xing)制相同,三(san)樓(lou)東(dong)西成一(yi)(yi)線。1924年城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou)被毀。西面羅城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚砌,東(dong)、南(nan)、北(bei)有(you)土筑(zhu)圍(wei)墻(qiang),連接長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有(you)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),迭門(men)(men)重城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),成并守之(zhi)勢(shi)。東(dong)甕(weng)(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)外(wai)有(you)文昌閣、關(guan)(guan)帝廟、戲樓(lou),城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)(nei)靠北(bei)有(you)游(you)擊衙門(men)(men)府一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),都是清代建筑(zhu)。新中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)成立(li)后,關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)曾多次(ci)維修(xiu)加固(gu),至今保存完好。
長城(cheng)(cheng)第一(yi)(yi)墩嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)位(wei)于(yu)(yu)甘(gan)肅省河(he)西(xi)走(zou)廊(lang)的(de)(de)西(xi)端(duan),東(dong)經98°17′、北緯39°47′,甘(gan)肅嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)市向西(xi)5公(gong)里(li)(li)處,是明(ming)長城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)端(duan)的(de)(de)第一(yi)(yi)重關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan),也是古代“絲綢(chou)之路”的(de)(de)交通要(yao)沖。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)市區西(xi)南6公(gong)里(li)(li)處,位(wei)于(yu)(yu)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)狹窄的(de)(de)山谷(gu)中(zhong)部,地勢(shi)最(zui)高(gao)的(de)(de)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山上,城(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼(yi)的(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻橫穿沙漠戈壁,向北8公(gong)里(li)(li)連黑(hei)山懸壁長城(cheng)(cheng),向南7公(gong)里(li)(li),是明(ming)代萬里(li)(li)長城(cheng)(cheng)西(xi)端(duan)主宰,自古為(wei)河(he)西(xi)第一(yi)(yi)隘口。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng),位(wei)于(yu)(yu)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)最(zui)狹窄的(de)(de)山谷(gu)中(zhong)部,地勢(shi)最(zui)高(gao)的(de)(de)嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)山上,城(cheng)(cheng)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)兩(liang)翼(yi)的(de)(de)城(cheng)(cheng)墻橫穿沙漠戈壁。嘉(jia)(jia)峪(yu)(yu)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)以地勢(shi)險要(yao),巍峨(e)壯觀(guan)著稱于(yu)(yu)世。與萬里(li)(li)之外的(de)(de)“天(tian)下第一(yi)(yi)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)”——山海(hai)關(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)遙(yao)相呼應,聞名(ming)天(tian)下。
明代,嘉(jia)峪關管轄著(zhu)“腹里、沿邊、境外墩(dun)(dun)臺三十九座”。關內墩(dun)(dun)臺林立(li),縱(zong)橫(heng)交織,相互(hu)了(le)望(wang),互(hu)通情報。長城第(di)一墩(dun)(dun),是關南主要的(de)一座墩(dun)(dun)臺,擔負著(zhu)傳遞關南及祁連山諸口軍事信息的(de)任務。設有塢、驛(yi)馬、驛(yi)駝(tuo)、食宿、積(ji)薪等(deng)物,配備有一定數量的(de)守兵。
長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)景區(qu)自然(ran)景致壯觀,東臨酒泉(quan),西連荒漠(mo),北依(yi)嘉(jia)峪,南望祁連,討(tao)(tao)賴(lai)河水滔滔東去(qu)。極目南眺,山峰(feng)終年潔白,襯(chen)映著藍色天(tian)空,更覺清新如(ru)畫。正所謂“余收遠岫和云濕,風度疏林帶舞飄”。景區(qu)面積約3.22平方公(gong)里(li)。景區(qu)包括(kuo)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)、綜(zong)合(he)服務區(qu)、討(tao)(tao)賴(lai)河滑(hua)索、討(tao)(tao)賴(lai)客棧、天(tian)險(xian)吊橋(qiao)、“醉臥沙場”雕塑(su)群、“中(zhong)華龍(long)(long)(long)林”等內(nei)容(rong)。長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)于明(ming)嘉(jia)靖十八年(公(gong)元1539)年由肅州(zhou)兵(bing)備道(dao)李涵監筑(zhu),北距關城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)7.5公(gong)里(li),墩(dun)臺矗立(li)于討(tao)(tao)賴(lai)河邊近(jin)56米高(gao)(gao)的(de)懸崖之上(shang)。對于它(ta)的(de)雄(xiong)險(xian),著名長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)專家羅哲文(wen)先生(sheng)(sheng)曾(ceng)經(jing)有(you)過生(sheng)(sheng)動的(de)吟詠:“嘉(jia)峪關,雄(xiong)險(xian)畫皆難,墩(dun)堡(bao)遙遙相互(hu)望,長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)道(dao)道(dao)連關山,猿(yuan)臂也難攀”。在(zai)一萬多華里(li)的(de)明(ming)代長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)線上(shang),墩(dun)臺無數,密如(ru)繁星,而嘉(jia)峪關長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)與河北山海(hai)關渤海(hai)之濱的(de)“老龍(long)(long)(long)頭”遙相呼(hu)應,共同構筑(zhu)起(qi)中(zhong)華長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)“龍(long)(long)(long)”的(de)首尾,成就(jiu)(jiu)了(le)中(zhong)華民族“龍(long)(long)(long)”的(de)美名。如(ru)果說(shuo)長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)是中(zhong)華民族的(de)豐(feng)碑(bei),那么長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)就(jiu)(jiu)是這(zhe)(zhe)座(zuo)豐(feng)碑(bei)崛起(qi)的(de)地方。現(xian)在(zai),這(zhe)(zhe)座(zuo)墩(dun)臺殘(can)高(gao)(gao)約10米,其底(di)部呈不規則正方形,底(di)寬14米,內(nei)部仍呈正方形,長寬均為6米。用(yong)黃土(tu)夯筑(zhu)而成,夯土(tu)層(ceng)厚(hou)10~20厘(li)米。“長城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)第(di)(di)一墩(dun)”碑(bei)文(wen)由已故的(de)西路(lu)軍將(jiang)領(ling)魏傳統題寫,字跡飄逸灑脫,清秀雋永(yong)。
依托長城(cheng)第一(yi)墩開發建設的(de)旅(lv)游景(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)區(qu),自然景(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)致壯觀,東邊是(shi)群樓林立的(de)嘉峪(yu)關市區(qu),西(xi)邊是(shi)浩瀚無際(ji)的(de)大漠戈壁,北邊與雄偉壯觀的(de)嘉峪(yu)關相連(lian)(lian),南(nan)面為連(lian)(lian)綿起伏的(de)祁連(lian)(lian)雪山,腳下是(shi)發源于祁連(lian)(lian)山的(de)討賴(lai)河。長城(cheng)第一(yi)墩旅(lv)游景(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)區(qu),以長城(cheng)文(wen)(wen)化和(he)絲綢(chou)之路文(wen)(wen)化為內涵,以戈壁風(feng)(feng)光和(he)西(xi)北民俗風(feng)(feng)情為基礎(chu),是(shi)一(yi)處(chu)觀光、探(tan)險(xian)、休閑、娛(yu)樂(le)、懷古游歷(li)和(he)拍攝影(ying)視場(chang)景(jing)(jing)(jing)(jing)的(de)好地方(fang)。