偏頭關(guan)(guan)(guan),位于偏關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣黃河邊,與(yu)寧武關(guan)(guan)(guan)、雁門關(guan)(guan)(guan)合(he)稱“三關(guan)(guan)(guan)”。
因其地(di)勢東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)仰(yang)西(xi)(xi)伏(fu),故名偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關。“雄關鼎寧(ning)雁,山(shan)連紫(zi)塞長(chang),地(di)控黃(huang)(huang)河北,金城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)鞏晉強。”這(zhe)(zhe)是(shi)古人對偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關的(de)贊(zan)譽。偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關歷史悠久,地(di)處黃(huang)(huang)河入晉南流(liu)之(zhi)轉彎處,為(wei)(wei)歷代兵家爭奪(duo)重(zhong)(zhong)地(di)。早在(zai)春秋戰國時(shi)期,這(zhe)(zhe)里(li)就是(shi)戰場。“趙武(wu)靈王略(lve)中山(shan)破(po)林(lin)(lin)(lin)胡,取(qu)其地(di)置(zhi)儋林(lin)(lin)(lin)郡”。偏(pian)(pian)關秦漢屬雁門(men)(men),隋(sui)屬馬邑,唐(tang)置(zhi)唐(tang)隆(long)鎮,名將尉遲敬德(de)在(zai)關東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)建(jian)九(jiu)龍寺。偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)形狀(zhuang)不規則(ze),東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)長(chang)1100米(mi)。東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)、西(xi)(xi)、南三(san)道城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men)均建(jian)有甕城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高10米(mi)處砌(qi)磚(zhuan)石,南門(men)(men)至西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)一(yi)帶,磚(zhuan)石大部(bu)(bu)(bu)猶存(cun)。西(xi)(xi)墻、北墻多(duo)為(wei)(wei)夯土墻,東(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)部(bu)(bu)(bu)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻已(yi)毀(hui)。明(ming)代除設(she)置(zhi)“偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關”外,在(zai)重(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)峻嶺(ling)的(de)長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)沿(yan)線及重(zhong)(zhong)要通道上建(jian)起了城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)22座,有樺(hua)林(lin)(lin)(lin)堡、老牛灣(wan)堡、草垛山(shan)堡、老營堡等。這(zhe)(zhe)些堡城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)的(de)邊墻現多(duo)僅(jin)存(cun)夯土,唯地(di)處黃(huang)(huang)河岸邊的(de)樺(hua)林(lin)(lin)(lin)堡地(di)段(duan),約30公里(li)邊墻保(bao)存(cun)較好,全(quan)部(bu)(bu)(bu)包磚(zhuan),高聳(song)于河岸,甚為(wei)(wei)壯觀。
偏頭關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng),在(zai)今偏關(guan)(guan)縣城(cheng)(cheng)中部偏西(xi)關(guan)(guan)河(he)(he)北(bei)岸(an),為(wei)省重(zhong)點(dian)文物保(bao)護單位(wei)。據(ju)民國四年(1915)《偏關(guan)(guan)志(zhi)》記載,于(yu)明(ming)洪武(wu)二十三(san)年(1390)鎮西(xi)沖(chong)指揮張賢始建(jian)(jian)。宣德(de)、天順、成化、弘治、嘉(jia)靖(jing)、隆慶、萬歷(li)間均(jun)有(you)修建(jian)(jian)。萬歷(li)二十六年(1598)又于(yu)西(xi)關(guan)(guan)南關(guan)(guan)筑(zhu)(zhu)女城(cheng)(cheng)、水門(men)各二。沿(yan)河(he)(he)筑(zhu)(zhu)堤(di),規模初備,始稱“九塞(sai)屏(ping)藩”。所存(cun)的(de)城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)形狀不規則,東西(xi)長1100米(mi)(mi),東、西(xi)、南三(san)道城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)均(jun)建(jian)(jian)甕城(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)高10米(mi)(mi)處(chu)包(bao)磚石(shi)(shi)。一南門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)西(xi)門(men)一帶,磚石(shi)(shi)大部猶存(cun),氣勢雄偉。黃(huang)河(he)(he)邊堡墻(qiang)(qiang)的(de)具體位(wei)置(zhi)在(zai)老牛海至(zhi)(zhi)寺溝(gou)(gou)黃(huang)河(he)(he)沿(yan)岸(an)。現為(wei)山西(xi)省重(zhong)點(dian)文物保(bao)護單位(wei)。據(ju)民國四年(1915)《偏關(guan)(guan)志(zhi)》記載,為(wei)明(ming)成化二年(1468)總兵王璽建(jian)(jian),嘉(jia)靖(jing)萬歷(li)年間均(jun)進行增筑(zhu)(zhu)。北(bei)自老牛灣與外長城(cheng)(cheng)相連,南經寺溝(gou)(gou)渡口(kou)(kou)退至(zhi)(zhi)河(he)(he)曲縣石(shi)(shi)梯口(kou)(kou)隘。偏關(guan)(guan)境內長40公里(li)。此段(duan)長城(cheng)(cheng)多有(you)黃(huang)河(he)(he)懸崖天險屏(ping)障,多數地段(duan)未筑(zhu)(zhu)墻(qiang)(qiang)體,只(zhi)在(zai)溝(gou)(gou)口(kou)(kou)崖頭筑(zhu)(zhu)寨據(ju)守,沿(yan)岸(an)多建(jian)(jian)望臺設(she)防。只(zhi)有(you)寺溝(gou)(gou)至(zhi)(zhi)黑豆(dou)埝,關(guan)(guan)河(he)(he)口(kou)(kou)至(zhi)(zhi)尖刺(ci)灣建(jian)(jian)石(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)(qiang),紅色粘土夯(hang)筑(zhu)(zhu),外墻(qiang)(qiang)條石(shi)(shi)、城(cheng)(cheng)磚包(bao)之(zhi)。100——200米(mi)(mi)筑(zhu)(zhu)馬面或敵(di)接(jie)。其走向均(jun)建(jian)(jian)于(yu)黃(huang)河(he)(he)崖頭、溝(gou)(gou)豁(huo)。數百年來(lai)雖有(you)自然及(ji)人為(wei)破壞,僅存(cun)土墻(qiang)(qiang),但氣勢不以(yi)當年。土墻(qiang)(qiang)平均(jun)底寬七(qi)米(mi)(mi),頂寬五米(mi)(mi),殘局五到七(qi)米(mi)(mi)。是山西(xi)黃(huang)河(he)(he)邊上的(de)重(zhong)要文化景觀之(zhi)一。
在(zai)偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)東南一(yi)(yi)公里,有凌霄(xiao)塔,系明(ming)代建筑。據有關(guan)(guan)碑(bei)文記(ji)載,創建于明(ming)代天(tian)啟元年(nian)(1621),始(shi)為(wei)七(qi)級(ji)。崇禎八(ba)(ba)年(nian)(1635)加高(gao)四(si)(si)級(ji)。清(qing)康熙(xi)十八(ba)(ba)年(nian)(1679)、咸(xian)豐七(qi)年(nian)(1857)均有維修(xiu),為(wei)磚(zhuan)石(shi)結構、八(ba)(ba)角形(xing)(xing)樓閣式(shi)空心雁塔。基座二(er)層塔底部周長29米,塔高(gao)35米,外(wai)觀形(xing)(xing)似文筆,故名“文筆凌霄(xiao)”塔。從(cong)二(er)層開始(shi),每層四(si)(si)個(ge)窗(chuang)洞。由內(nei)壁隱筑樓梯,保存完好,為(wei)偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)之一(yi)(yi)大(da)景觀。偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)縣的長城遺跡,還有黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)(he)邊堡屆,又(you)稱“西河(he)(he)(he)(he)石(shi)邊”,俗稱“黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)(he)邊”。這條明(ming)代長城,北接偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)縣老牛灣(wan),沿黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)(he)岸邊蜿蜒(yan)而行,南經山西河(he)(he)(he)(he)曲縣石(shi)梯口(kou)隘,全長約100公里。
此邊(bian)地(di)(di)處晉陜峽谷之(zhi)中(zhong),黃河充當:“天塹”。長城建(jian)筑(zhu)因(yin)地(di)(di)制宜,通道豁口之(zhi)處,又筑(zhu)石邊(bian)、土墻,陡(dou)峭的崖壁山上僅筑(zhu)烽(feng)火臺,連綿不斷(duan),構成嚴密的軍(jun)事(shi)防御體系。
偏關城(cheng)(cheng)歷經明清(qing)(qing)兩代興建(jian),規模大(da)展,盡管(guan)四面環(huan)山,地處(chu)盆地,但隨(sui)著東高西低的(de)山勢,象(xiang)一只(zhi)頭枕塔梁山,臥于關河(he)川的(de)巨犀(xi),又稱“犀(xi)牛望月”城(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)主大(da)街縱貫南北,樓房(fang)林立,商(shang)賈(jia)云集,街市(shi)一新。明清(qing)(qing)建(jian)筑(zhu)古民居(ju),青瓦(wa)房(fang)舍,各抱地勢,一展古樸(pu)古香的(de)風韻。城(cheng)(cheng)中央(yang)的(de)鐘(zhong)鼓樓,石基磚拱,紅墻(qiang)青瓦(wa),飛檐歇山頂,雄姿穩健,十分氣派。古時(shi)關城(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)有(you)寺(si)廟108座,建(jian)筑(zhu)宏(hong)偉。“雄關鼎寧(ning)雁,山連紫塞長,地控黃河(he)北,金城(cheng)(cheng)鞏晉強。”明山西巡撫何喬新對軍事重鎮—偏頭關給(gei)予高度(du)評價。
偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)河朔州、寧武、神(shen)池(chi)等地有班(ban)車(che)(che)來往,但車(che)(che)次不多。從(cong)內(nei)蒙古往太原的班(ban)車(che)(che)也經過(guo)偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)。朔州每天(tian)7:00 8:00 10:00 12:30 17:00有班(ban)車(che)(che)發往偏(pian)關(guan)(guan),票價30元,3小時左右到達(da)。
偏關賓館
偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣地(di)(di)(di)處晉西北(bei)(bei),受氣候及光照影響(xiang),各(ge)種美(mei)食很有(you)特色,可稱(cheng)(cheng)人間美(mei)味(wei),叫人欲罷不能,來(lai)到偏(pian)(pian)頭關(guan)(guan)(guan),第(di)(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)豬肉(rou),這(zhe)(zhe)里的(de)(de)豬肉(rou)生(sheng)長(chang)(chang)期長(chang)(chang),肥(fei)肉(rou)唇齒留香(xiang),肥(fei)而不膩,瘦(shou)肉(rou)勁(jing)道唯美(mei)。用豬肉(rou)制(zhi)(zhi)作的(de)(de)典型食品是(shi)大燴菜(cai)(cai)、豬頭肉(rou)。來(lai)到偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)首先要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)這(zhe)(zhe)兩樣。第(di)(di)二是(shi)偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou),這(zhe)(zhe)里地(di)(di)(di)處晉蒙交界,羊(yang)肉(rou)肥(fei)瘦(shou)適中,肉(rou)質鮮(xian)美(mei)且烹調有(you)方,這(zhe)(zhe)里的(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou)要(yao)遠遠超(chao)過(guo)所謂的(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou)泡(pao)饃,來(lai)到偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)要(yao)品嘗(chang)最好吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)的(de)(de)燉羊(yang)肉(rou),不吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)羊(yang),不知(zhi)人間香(xiang)。第(di)(di)三要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)油(you)糕,用黃(huang)米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)作,在華北(bei)(bei)其他地(di)(di)(di)方又稱(cheng)(cheng)黍子米(mi),該糕以(yi)香(xiang)、脆、軟著(zhu)稱(cheng)(cheng),再(zai)配(pei)(pei)合胡油(you)炸(zha)制(zhi)(zhi),要(yao)比南(nan)方糯米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)品高(gao)出一(yi)(yi)(yi)個(ge)(ge)檔次,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)過(guo)后唇齒留香(xiang),恨不能吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)飽(bao)為止,到這(zhe)(zhe)里一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)油(you)糕 。 第(di)(di)四(si)要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)羊(yang)雜割,外地(di)(di)(di)的(de)(de)羊(yang)雜基本燉個(ge)(ge)湯(tang)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),味(wei)道很一(yi)(yi)(yi)般,膻味(wei)很重,而偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)羊(yang)雜要(yao)配(pei)(pei)合土豆(dou)粉條(tiao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),味(wei)道鮮(xian)美(mei),到一(yi)(yi)(yi)壺老(lao)陳醋,抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)把(ba)香(xiang)菜(cai)(cai)撒,可謂人間美(mei)味(wei)。第(di)(di)五要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)莜(you)面,這(zhe)(zhe)里的(de)(de)莜(you)面是(shi)真(zhen)正的(de)(de)高(gao)寒地(di)(di)(di)帶莜(you)面,尤其湯(tang)料調味(wei)獨(du)特,三高(gao)患者可天(tian)天(tian)使用。第(di)(di)五是(shi)涼碗托,偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)碗托用蕎面制(zhi)(zhi)作,配(pei)(pei)合美(mei)味(wei)湯(tang)料,清涼爽口,沁人心脾(pi),從小到大天(tian)天(tian)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)也吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)不膩,到偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)不吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)腕托白(bai)走一(yi)(yi)(yi)遭。偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)美(mei)食還(huan)有(you)很多(duo),數不勝數,希望到偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)游客一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)品嘗(chang),不好吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)不要(yao)錢。
偏(pian)關(guan)縣在(zai)漢、唐的(de)時候還不出(chu)名(ming),也沒有設縣治,到了(le)五代(dai)十國時期北(bei)漢末代(dai)皇帝劉(liu)鈞于天會元年(nian)(nian)(nian)(957年(nian)(nian)(nian))置(zhi)(zhi)偏(pian)頭(tou)砦;北(bei)宋(song)時這里成為與(yu)(yu)西夏交兵的(de)國防前線(xian),因(yin)駐扎重(zhong)兵,地位一(yi)度非(fei)常(chang)高;遼置(zhi)(zhi)寧邊州(zhou);金時仍用該稱呼;元代(dai)時候州(zhou)、縣俱廢,改偏(pian)頭(tou)砦為偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan),明(ming)洪(hong)武(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間始(shi)筑今天的(de)關(guan)城,明(ming)成化年(nian)(nian)(nian)間設偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)守御(yu)千戶所(suo),嘉靖年(nian)(nian)(nian)間上升為路城,萬(wan)歷年(nian)(nian)(nian)間又(you)(you)大規模建設此城,稱為“九塞屏藩”;清雍正年(nian)(nian)(nian)間改偏(pian)關(guan)為縣,屬寧武(wu)府,又(you)(you)名(ming)通邊關(guan);1940年(nian)(nian)(nian)解放(fang)。偏(pian)關(guan)與(yu)(yu)寧武(wu)關(guan)、雁門(men)關(guan),合稱外三(san)關(guan)。此三(san)關(guan)鼎峙晉北(bei),互為犄角,是北(bei)疆之(zhi)門(men)戶,京師之(zhi)屏障。
偏關的(de)故(gu)事(shi)涉(she)及到了(le)明武宗。明武宗是(shi)一個(ge)非常(chang)有趣的(de)皇(huang)帝,具體就(jiu)不展開說(shuo)(shuo)了(le),這(zhe)里(li)只說(shuo)(shuo)他喜歡打仗(zhang),可是(shi)明朝(chao)是(shi)歷(li)代以(yi)來(lai)(lai)把(ba)儒教禮(li)數等(deng)傳(chuan)統思想貫徹得(de)最徹底的(de)一個(ge)王朝(chao),是(shi)一個(ge)純粹的(de)文(wen)人(ren)統治社(she)會。皇(huang)帝也(ye)只是(shi)一個(ge)擺(bai)設,要不然萬歷(li)在(zai)位五(wu)十(shi)四(si)年中有二十(shi)五(wu)年沒上(shang)朝(chao),社(she)會也(ye)正常(chang)運(yun)轉呢(ni)。所以(yi)武宗就(jiu)很不舒(shu)服,怎么辦呢(ni)?武宗想了(le)個(ge)著兒(er),虛擬(ni)了(le)一個(ge)叫朱壽的(de)大(da)(da)將軍(jun),并下詔封官:總督軍(jun)務威(wei)武大(da)(da)將軍(jun)總兵官朱壽,統領六師,掃除邊患(huan),累建奇功,特加封鎮國公,歲支(zhi)錄(lu)五(wu)千石,著吏部如剌奉(feng)行!不久又加封朱壽為(wei)太(tai)師。這(zhe)著兒(er)好啊(a),以(yi)后想打仗(zhang)或者(zhe)干(gan)點(dian)啥事(shi),就(jiu)以(yi)影子武士的(de)名義來(lai)(lai)操辦,事(shi)情辦砸了(le)也(ye)好推(tui)卸(xie)責任,同時(shi)(shi)還(huan)拿到了(le)一份兒(er)工資。明武宗二次西巡(xun)的(de)時(shi)(shi)候(hou)曾在(zai)這(zhe)里(li)小住過。
明人有詩云:
半壁孤城(cheng)水一(yi)灣(wan),萬家(jia)煙(yan)(yan)火壯雄關(guan)(guan)(guan)。 黃河曲曲濤南下(xia),紫塞(sai)隆隆障北(bei)環。 明朝時(shi),偏頭關(guan)(guan)(guan)既是(shi)晉北(bei)門戶,也(ye)是(shi)晉北(bei)與內蒙古互(hu)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)通商(shang)口。每逢戰(zhan)爭的(de)(de)(de)(de)烽煙(yan)(yan)消失(shi)之(zhi)后,邊禁開放,關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)及其周圍的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)些堡(bao)寨(zhai)就成為(wei)蒙漢(han)人(ren)(ren)民(min)互(hu)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)區域。蒙古族(zu)以大批的(de)(de)(de)(de)草原駿馬進(jin)入互(hu)市(shi)區,換取漢(han)人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)絲棉織品(pin)、茶葉(xie)等物。互(hu)市(shi)開放之(zhi)日,關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)、堡(bao)寨(zhai)將(jiang)士披甲戴盔(kui),列隊城(cheng)外(wai),城(cheng)樓之(zhi)上,禮炮轟鳴,鼓(gu)角擂(lei)動,慶祝這民(min)族(zu)交(jiao)往的(de)(de)(de)(de)盛會(hui)(hui)。邊地將(jiang)領、政(zheng)府官員、各地商(shang)人(ren)(ren)都紛紛前來(lai)赴會(hui)(hui),通過商(shang)品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)(de)交(jiao)流(liu),交(jiao)流(liu)著民(min)族(zu)間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)感情。 如今,關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)、堡(bao)寨(zhai)、邊墻早(zao)已(yi)隨著時(shi)間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)流(liu)逝,失(shi)去(qu)了它(ta)們(men)當年的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用,成為(wei)歷史的(de)(de)(de)(de)遺跡。它(ta)們(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)存在(zai),只能告訴人(ren)(ren)們(men),中華(hua)各民(min)族(zu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)感情,永遠像濤濤黃河,奔流(liu)不息,任何屏障都是(shi)隔不斷(duan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)。