偏頭關(guan),位于偏關(guan)縣黃河(he)邊,與寧(ning)武(wu)關(guan)、雁門關(guan)合稱“三關(guan)”。
因其地(di)(di)勢東(dong)仰西伏,故名偏頭關(guan)。“雄關(guan)鼎寧雁(yan),山(shan)連紫塞長(chang),地(di)(di)控黃(huang)河(he)北,金(jin)城鞏(gong)晉強(qiang)。”這是(shi)古人對偏頭關(guan)的贊譽。偏頭關(guan)歷史悠久,地(di)(di)處(chu)黃(huang)河(he)入晉南流之轉(zhuan)彎處(chu),為(wei)歷代兵家爭奪重地(di)(di)。早在(zai)春秋戰(zhan)國(guo)時(shi)期,這里(li)就是(shi)戰(zhan)場。“趙武靈王略中山(shan)破林胡,取其地(di)(di)置(zhi)儋林郡”。偏關(guan)秦漢屬雁(yan)門(men)(men),隋屬馬邑,唐(tang)置(zhi)唐(tang)隆鎮(zhen),名將尉(wei)遲敬德在(zai)關(guan)東(dong)建九(jiu)龍寺。偏頭關(guan)城形狀不(bu)規則(ze),東(dong)西長(chang)1100米。東(dong)、西、南三道城門(men)(men)均建有(you)甕城。城高(gao)10米處(chu)砌磚石(shi)(shi),南門(men)(men)至西門(men)(men)一帶,磚石(shi)(shi)大部(bu)猶(you)存(cun)。西墻(qiang)、北墻(qiang)多為(wei)夯土(tu)墻(qiang),東(dong)部(bu)城墻(qiang)已(yi)毀。明(ming)代除設置(zhi)“偏頭關(guan)”外(wai),在(zai)重山(shan)峻嶺(ling)的長(chang)城沿線及重要通道上建起了城22座,有(you)樺(hua)林堡(bao)、老牛灣堡(bao)、草垛(duo)山(shan)堡(bao)、老營堡(bao)等。這些堡(bao)城的邊墻(qiang)現多僅存(cun)夯土(tu),唯(wei)地(di)(di)處(chu)黃(huang)河(he)岸邊的樺(hua)林堡(bao)地(di)(di)段,約30公里(li)邊墻(qiang)保存(cun)較(jiao)好,全(quan)部(bu)包磚,高(gao)聳于河(he)岸,甚為(wei)壯觀(guan)。
偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)城(cheng),在(zai)今(jin)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)縣城(cheng)中(zhong)部偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)西(xi)(xi)(xi)關(guan)(guan)河(he)北(bei)岸(an)(an),為(wei)省重(zhong)點文(wen)物(wu)(wu)保護(hu)單位。據民(min)(min)國四(si)年(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)志》記(ji)載,于明洪(hong)武二十三年(nian)(1390)鎮西(xi)(xi)(xi)沖指揮(hui)張(zhang)賢(xian)始建(jian)(jian)(jian)。宣(xuan)德、天順、成化(hua)、弘(hong)治(zhi)、嘉靖、隆慶、萬歷(li)(li)間(jian)均(jun)(jun)有修建(jian)(jian)(jian)。萬歷(li)(li)二十六年(nian)(1598)又于西(xi)(xi)(xi)關(guan)(guan)南(nan)關(guan)(guan)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)女(nv)城(cheng)、水門(men)各二。沿河(he)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)堤,規(gui)模初備(bei),始稱(cheng)“九塞屏藩”。所存(cun)的城(cheng)垣形狀不(bu)(bu)規(gui)則(ze),東西(xi)(xi)(xi)長1100米,東、西(xi)(xi)(xi)、南(nan)三道城(cheng)門(men)均(jun)(jun)建(jian)(jian)(jian)甕城(cheng)。城(cheng)高10米處包磚石(shi)(shi)(shi)。一南(nan)門(men)至(zhi)西(xi)(xi)(xi)門(men)一帶(dai),磚石(shi)(shi)(shi)大部猶存(cun),氣(qi)勢雄偉。黃河(he)邊堡墻(qiang)的具體(ti)位置在(zai)老牛(niu)海至(zhi)寺(si)(si)溝(gou)黃河(he)沿岸(an)(an)。現為(wei)山西(xi)(xi)(xi)省重(zhong)點文(wen)物(wu)(wu)保護(hu)單位。據民(min)(min)國四(si)年(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)志》記(ji)載,為(wei)明成化(hua)二年(nian)(1468)總兵(bing)王(wang)璽(xi)建(jian)(jian)(jian),嘉靖萬歷(li)(li)年(nian)間(jian)均(jun)(jun)進行增(zeng)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)。北(bei)自(zi)老牛(niu)灣(wan)與外長城(cheng)相連(lian),南(nan)經寺(si)(si)溝(gou)渡口(kou)退至(zhi)河(he)曲縣石(shi)(shi)(shi)梯(ti)口(kou)隘。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)境(jing)內長40公里。此(ci)段長城(cheng)多(duo)有黃河(he)懸崖天險屏障,多(duo)數地段未筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)墻(qiang)體(ti),只在(zai)溝(gou)口(kou)崖頭(tou)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)寨據守(shou),沿岸(an)(an)多(duo)建(jian)(jian)(jian)望(wang)臺設防(fang)。只有寺(si)(si)溝(gou)至(zhi)黑豆(dou)埝(nian),關(guan)(guan)河(he)口(kou)至(zhi)尖刺灣(wan)建(jian)(jian)(jian)石(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)墻(qiang),紅(hong)色粘(zhan)土夯筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu),外墻(qiang)條石(shi)(shi)(shi)、城(cheng)磚包之(zhi)。100——200米筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)馬面或敵(di)接(jie)。其走向均(jun)(jun)建(jian)(jian)(jian)于黃河(he)崖頭(tou)、溝(gou)豁。數百年(nian)來雖(sui)有自(zi)然及人為(wei)破壞(huai),僅存(cun)土墻(qiang),但氣(qi)勢不(bu)(bu)以當年(nian)。土墻(qiang)平均(jun)(jun)底寬(kuan)七米,頂寬(kuan)五米,殘(can)局五到七米。是山西(xi)(xi)(xi)黃河(he)邊上的重(zhong)要文(wen)化(hua)景觀之(zhi)一。
在(zai)偏(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關東南一(yi)公(gong)里,有凌霄塔,系明代(dai)建筑。據(ju)有關碑文記載,創建于(yu)明代(dai)天啟(qi)元年(nian)(1621),始為(wei)七(qi)級(ji)。崇(chong)禎(zhen)八(ba)年(nian)(1635)加高四(si)級(ji)。清康(kang)熙十八(ba)年(nian)(1679)、咸豐(feng)七(qi)年(nian)(1857)均有維修,為(wei)磚(zhuan)石結構(gou)、八(ba)角形樓(lou)閣式空心雁(yan)塔。基座二層(ceng)塔底部周(zhou)長29米(mi),塔高35米(mi),外觀(guan)形似文筆(bi),故(gu)名“文筆(bi)凌霄”塔。從(cong)二層(ceng)開(kai)始,每(mei)層(ceng)四(si)個窗洞。由內壁(bi)隱筑樓(lou)梯,保存完好(hao),為(wei)偏(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關之一(yi)大景觀(guan)。偏(pian)關縣(xian)(xian)的長城(cheng)遺跡,還(huan)有黃河(he)邊(bian)(bian)堡屆,又稱(cheng)(cheng)“西(xi)河(he)石邊(bian)(bian)”,俗稱(cheng)(cheng)“黃河(he)邊(bian)(bian)”。這(zhe)條(tiao)明代(dai)長城(cheng),北(bei)接偏(pian)關縣(xian)(xian)老(lao)牛(niu)灣,沿黃河(he)岸(an)邊(bian)(bian)蜿(wan)蜒而行(xing),南經(jing)山西(xi)河(he)曲縣(xian)(xian)石梯口隘,全長約100公(gong)里。
此邊地(di)處晉陜峽谷之中(zhong),黃河充當:“天塹”。長城建筑因地(di)制宜(yi),通道(dao)豁口之處,又筑石邊、土墻,陡峭的(de)(de)崖(ya)壁山上僅筑烽火臺,連綿不斷,構(gou)成嚴密的(de)(de)軍事(shi)防御體系。
偏(pian)關城歷(li)經明清兩(liang)代(dai)興建(jian),規模大展(zhan),盡(jin)管(guan)四(si)面環山(shan),地處(chu)盆地,但隨著東高(gao)西低的山(shan)勢,象一只頭枕(zhen)塔梁山(shan),臥于關河川的巨犀,又稱(cheng)“犀牛望(wang)月(yue)”城。城內主大街縱貫南北(bei),樓房林立,商賈(jia)云集(ji),街市一新(xin)。明清建(jian)筑(zhu)古(gu)民居,青瓦(wa)房舍,各抱地勢,一展(zhan)古(gu)樸古(gu)香(xiang)的風韻。城中央的鐘鼓樓,石基磚拱,紅墻(qiang)青瓦(wa),飛(fei)檐歇山(shan)頂,雄(xiong)姿穩健,十分氣(qi)派。古(gu)時(shi)關城內有寺廟108座,建(jian)筑(zhu)宏偉。“雄(xiong)關鼎寧雁,山(shan)連紫塞長,地控(kong)黃河北(bei),金城鞏晉(jin)強。”明山(shan)西巡撫何喬新(xin)對(dui)軍事重鎮—偏(pian)頭關給予高(gao)度(du)評價。
偏關(guan)(guan)河朔(shuo)州、寧武、神池等地(di)有班(ban)車(che)來往(wang),但車(che)次不(bu)多。從內蒙古(gu)往(wang)太(tai)原的(de)班(ban)車(che)也經過偏關(guan)(guan)。朔(shuo)州每天7:00 8:00 10:00 12:30 17:00有班(ban)車(che)發(fa)往(wang)偏關(guan)(guan),票價30元,3小時左右到(dao)達(da)。
偏關賓館
偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣地處(chu)晉(jin)西北,受氣(qi)候及光照影響,各種美(mei)食(shi)很(hen)有特(te)色,可(ke)稱人間(jian)美(mei)味(wei)(wei),叫人欲罷不能,來到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)頭關(guan)(guan)(guan),第(di)一(yi)(yi)(yi)要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)豬肉(rou)(rou),這(zhe)里(li)的(de)(de)(de)豬肉(rou)(rou)生(sheng)長(chang)(chang)期長(chang)(chang),肥(fei)肉(rou)(rou)唇(chun)齒留香,肥(fei)而(er)不膩,瘦(shou)肉(rou)(rou)勁道(dao)唯(wei)美(mei)。用豬肉(rou)(rou)制(zhi)(zhi)作的(de)(de)(de)典型食(shi)品是(shi)(shi)大(da)(da)燴菜、豬頭肉(rou)(rou)。來到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)首先要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)這(zhe)兩樣。第(di)二(er)是(shi)(shi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou)(rou),這(zhe)里(li)地處(chu)晉(jin)蒙交界,羊(yang)肉(rou)(rou)肥(fei)瘦(shou)適中,肉(rou)(rou)質鮮(xian)美(mei)且烹調有方,這(zhe)里(li)的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou)(rou)要(yao)(yao)遠(yuan)遠(yuan)超過(guo)所謂(wei)的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)肉(rou)(rou)泡饃,來到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)要(yao)(yao)品嘗最好吃(chi)(chi)的(de)(de)(de)燉羊(yang)肉(rou)(rou),不吃(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)羊(yang),不知人間(jian)香。第(di)三要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)油(you)糕,用黃(huang)米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)作,在華北其他地方又稱黍子米(mi),該糕以香、脆、軟(ruan)著稱,再(zai)配合(he)胡油(you)炸制(zhi)(zhi),要(yao)(yao)比南方糯(nuo)米(mi)制(zhi)(zhi)品高(gao)出(chu)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個檔(dang)次(ci),吃(chi)(chi)過(guo)后(hou)唇(chun)齒留香,恨(hen)不能吃(chi)(chi)飽為(wei)止,到(dao)這(zhe)里(li)一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)油(you)糕 。 第(di)四要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)羊(yang)雜割,外地的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)雜基本燉個湯(tang)吃(chi)(chi),味(wei)(wei)道(dao)很(hen)一(yi)(yi)(yi)般,膻味(wei)(wei)很(hen)重,而(er)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)羊(yang)雜要(yao)(yao)配合(he)土豆粉條吃(chi)(chi),味(wei)(wei)道(dao)鮮(xian)美(mei),到(dao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)壺老陳(chen)醋,抓一(yi)(yi)(yi)把香菜撒,可(ke)謂(wei)人間(jian)美(mei)味(wei)(wei)。第(di)五(wu)要(yao)(yao)吃(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)莜(you)面(mian)(mian)(mian),這(zhe)里(li)的(de)(de)(de)莜(you)面(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)真(zhen)正(zheng)的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)寒地帶莜(you)面(mian)(mian)(mian),尤其湯(tang)料調味(wei)(wei)獨特(te),三高(gao)患(huan)者可(ke)天(tian)天(tian)使用。第(di)五(wu)是(shi)(shi)涼(liang)碗托(tuo),偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)碗托(tuo)用蕎面(mian)(mian)(mian)制(zhi)(zhi)作,配合(he)美(mei)味(wei)(wei)湯(tang)料,清涼(liang)爽口,沁人心(xin)脾,從小到(dao)大(da)(da)天(tian)天(tian)吃(chi)(chi)也吃(chi)(chi)不膩,到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)不吃(chi)(chi)腕托(tuo)白走(zou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)遭。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)美(mei)食(shi)還有很(hen)多,數不勝數,希望到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)游客一(yi)(yi)(yi)定要(yao)(yao)品嘗,不好吃(chi)(chi)不要(yao)(yao)錢(qian)。
偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣在(zai)漢、唐的(de)時(shi)候還(huan)不出名,也(ye)沒有設縣治,到了五(wu)代(dai)十國(guo)(guo)時(shi)期北(bei)漢末代(dai)皇帝劉鈞(jun)于天(tian)會(hui)元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(957年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))置(zhi)偏(pian)頭(tou)砦(zhai);北(bei)宋時(shi)這里成為(wei)(wei)與西夏交兵(bing)的(de)國(guo)(guo)防前線,因駐扎(zha)重兵(bing),地位一(yi)度非常高;遼置(zhi)寧(ning)邊州(zhou);金時(shi)仍用該稱呼;元(yuan)代(dai)時(shi)候州(zhou)、縣俱(ju)廢,改偏(pian)頭(tou)砦(zhai)為(wei)(wei)偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)(guan),明洪武年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)始(shi)筑今(jin)天(tian)的(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng),明成化(hua)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)設偏(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)(guan)守(shou)御(yu)千(qian)戶(hu)所,嘉靖(jing)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)上升為(wei)(wei)路(lu)城(cheng),萬(wan)歷年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)又(you)大規模建設此(ci)城(cheng),稱為(wei)(wei)“九塞(sai)屏藩”;清雍正年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)改偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)為(wei)(wei)縣,屬寧(ning)武府,又(you)名通(tong)邊關(guan)(guan)(guan);1940年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)解(jie)放。偏(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)與寧(ning)武關(guan)(guan)(guan)、雁門關(guan)(guan)(guan),合稱外三(san)關(guan)(guan)(guan)。此(ci)三(san)關(guan)(guan)(guan)鼎峙晉北(bei),互為(wei)(wei)犄角,是(shi)北(bei)疆之(zhi)門戶(hu),京師之(zhi)屏障。
偏關的故事涉及到了明(ming)武(wu)宗(zong)。明(ming)武(wu)宗(zong)是(shi)(shi)一(yi)個非常(chang)有趣的皇帝,具體就不展開說(shuo)了,這(zhe)里只說(shuo)他喜歡打(da)仗,可是(shi)(shi)明(ming)朝(chao)是(shi)(shi)歷(li)代以(yi)(yi)(yi)來把儒教禮數等傳統思想貫徹(che)得(de)最徹(che)底的一(yi)個王朝(chao),是(shi)(shi)一(yi)個純(chun)粹的文(wen)人統治(zhi)社會(hui)。皇帝也只是(shi)(shi)一(yi)個擺設(she),要不然萬(wan)歷(li)在(zai)位五十四年中(zhong)有二(er)十五年沒上(shang)朝(chao),社會(hui)也正常(chang)運(yun)轉呢。所以(yi)(yi)(yi)武(wu)宗(zong)就很(hen)不舒(shu)服,怎么辦(ban)呢?武(wu)宗(zong)想了個著(zhu)兒,虛(xu)擬了一(yi)個叫朱壽的大(da)將(jiang)軍,并下詔封(feng)官:總(zong)督軍務(wu)威武(wu)大(da)將(jiang)軍總(zong)兵(bing)官朱壽,統領六(liu)師,掃除邊患,累建奇功,特(te)加封(feng)鎮國公,歲支(zhi)錄五千石,著(zhu)吏部如(ru)剌(la)奉行(xing)!不久又加封(feng)朱壽為太師。這(zhe)著(zhu)兒好啊,以(yi)(yi)(yi)后想打(da)仗或者干點啥事,就以(yi)(yi)(yi)影子(zi)武(wu)士(shi)的名義來操辦(ban),事情辦(ban)砸了也好推卸責任,同時還拿到了一(yi)份兒工(gong)資。明(ming)武(wu)宗(zong)二(er)次西巡(xun)的時候(hou)曾在(zai)這(zhe)里小住過。
明人有詩云:
半(ban)壁孤城(cheng)水一(yi)灣,萬家煙火(huo)壯雄關(guan)。 黃河曲曲濤南下,紫塞(sai)隆隆障(zhang)北(bei)環(huan)。 明朝時,偏頭關(guan)既是晉北(bei)門戶,也是晉北(bei)與(yu)內蒙(meng)古(gu)互市(shi)的(de)通(tong)商口。每(mei)逢戰爭的(de)烽煙消失(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)后(hou),邊(bian)(bian)禁開(kai)放,關(guan)城(cheng)及(ji)其(qi)周圍的(de)一(yi)些堡(bao)寨就成為蒙(meng)漢人民互市(shi)的(de)區(qu)域。蒙(meng)古(gu)族以(yi)大(da)批的(de)草原駿馬進入(ru)互市(shi)區(qu),換取漢人的(de)絲(si)棉織品、茶葉等物。互市(shi)開(kai)放之(zhi)(zhi)日,關(guan)城(cheng)、堡(bao)寨將(jiang)士(shi)披甲(jia)戴盔,列隊城(cheng)外,城(cheng)樓之(zhi)(zhi)上,禮炮轟(hong)鳴,鼓(gu)角(jiao)擂動,慶(qing)祝(zhu)這民族交(jiao)往的(de)盛會。邊(bian)(bian)地將(jiang)領、政府官員、各(ge)(ge)地商人都(dou)紛紛前來赴(fu)會,通(tong)過商品的(de)交(jiao)流,交(jiao)流著(zhu)民族間的(de)感(gan)情(qing)。 如今,關(guan)城(cheng)、堡(bao)寨、邊(bian)(bian)墻早(zao)已隨著(zhu)時間的(de)流逝,失(shi)去了它們(men)當年的(de)作用(yong),成為歷史的(de)遺跡(ji)。它們(men)的(de)存在,只(zhi)能(neng)告訴人們(men),中華各(ge)(ge)民族的(de)感(gan)情(qing),永遠像濤濤黃河,奔流不(bu)息,任何屏障(zhang)都(dou)是隔(ge)不(bu)斷的(de)。