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萬里長城-偏頭關
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偏頭關,位于偏關縣黃河邊,與寧武關、雁門關合稱“三關”。因其地勢東仰西伏,故名偏頭關。“雄關鼎寧雁,山連紫塞長,地控黃河北,金城鞏晉強。”這是古人對偏頭關的贊譽。偏頭關歷史悠久,地處黃河入晉南流之轉彎處,為歷代兵家爭奪重地。明代除設置“偏頭關”外,在重山峻嶺的長城沿線及重要通道上建起了城22座,有樺林堡、老牛灣堡、草垛山堡、老營堡等。這些堡城的邊墻現多僅存夯土,唯地處黃河岸邊的樺林堡地段,約30公里邊墻保存較好,全部包磚,高聳于河岸,甚為壯觀。
  • 所在地/隸屬: 山(shan)西省忻州市偏關縣黃河邊
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基本介紹

偏頭關(guan),位于(yu)偏關(guan)縣黃河(he)邊,與(yu)寧(ning)武關(guan)、雁門(men)關(guan)合稱“三關(guan)”。

因其地(di)(di)(di)勢東仰西伏(fu),故名(ming)偏(pian)頭關(guan)。“雄關(guan)鼎寧雁,山(shan)連紫塞長,地(di)(di)(di)控黃(huang)河(he)(he)北(bei),金城鞏晉強。”這(zhe)是古(gu)人對偏(pian)頭關(guan)的贊譽(yu)。偏(pian)頭關(guan)歷(li)史悠(you)久,地(di)(di)(di)處(chu)(chu)(chu)黃(huang)河(he)(he)入晉南流之轉彎處(chu)(chu)(chu),為(wei)(wei)歷(li)代兵家爭奪重地(di)(di)(di)。早在(zai)春秋戰國時(shi)期,這(zhe)里就是戰場。“趙武(wu)靈王略中(zhong)山(shan)破林(lin)胡,取(qu)其地(di)(di)(di)置(zhi)儋林(lin)郡”。偏(pian)關(guan)秦漢屬雁門,隋屬馬邑,唐(tang)置(zhi)唐(tang)隆鎮,名(ming)將尉遲敬德在(zai)關(guan)東建(jian)九(jiu)龍寺。偏(pian)頭關(guan)城形狀(zhuang)不(bu)規則(ze),東西長1100米。東、西、南三道城門均建(jian)有甕城。城高10米處(chu)(chu)(chu)砌磚石,南門至西門一帶,磚石大部(bu)猶存(cun)。西墻(qiang)、北(bei)墻(qiang)多為(wei)(wei)夯(hang)(hang)土墻(qiang),東部(bu)城墻(qiang)已(yi)毀。明代除設置(zhi)“偏(pian)頭關(guan)”外,在(zai)重山(shan)峻(jun)嶺(ling)的長城沿線及(ji)重要通道上建(jian)起了城22座(zuo),有樺林(lin)堡、老牛灣堡、草垛山(shan)堡、老營堡等。這(zhe)些堡城的邊墻(qiang)現(xian)多僅存(cun)夯(hang)(hang)土,唯地(di)(di)(di)處(chu)(chu)(chu)黃(huang)河(he)(he)岸(an)邊的樺林(lin)堡地(di)(di)(di)段,約(yue)30公里邊墻(qiang)保存(cun)較好(hao),全(quan)部(bu)包磚,高聳于(yu)河(he)(he)岸(an),甚為(wei)(wei)壯觀。

景點景觀

偏(pian)頭關(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng),在(zai)今偏(pian)關(guan)縣(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)中部(bu)偏(pian)西(xi)(xi)關(guan)河(he)(he)(he)北岸(an),為省重點文(wen)(wen)物保護(hu)單位(wei)。據(ju)民國四年(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)關(guan)志》記(ji)載,于明洪武二十三年(nian)(1390)鎮西(xi)(xi)沖(chong)指揮(hui)張賢始(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。宣德、天(tian)順、成化、弘(hong)治、嘉(jia)靖、隆慶、萬歷間(jian)均有(you)(you)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)。萬歷二十六(liu)年(nian)(1598)又于西(xi)(xi)關(guan)南關(guan)筑(zhu)(zhu)女城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)、水(shui)門(men)各(ge)二。沿(yan)(yan)河(he)(he)(he)筑(zhu)(zhu)堤,規模初備,始(shi)稱“九塞(sai)屏藩(fan)”。所存的城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)垣形狀不規則,東(dong)西(xi)(xi)長(chang)1100米(mi),東(dong)、西(xi)(xi)、南三道城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)門(men)均建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)高10米(mi)處包(bao)磚石(shi)(shi)(shi)。一南門(men)至西(xi)(xi)門(men)一帶,磚石(shi)(shi)(shi)大部(bu)猶(you)存,氣勢雄偉。黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)邊堡墻(qiang)的具體位(wei)置在(zai)老牛(niu)海(hai)至寺溝黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)沿(yan)(yan)岸(an)。現為山西(xi)(xi)省重點文(wen)(wen)物保護(hu)單位(wei)。據(ju)民國四年(nian)(1915)《偏(pian)關(guan)志》記(ji)載,為明成化二年(nian)(1468)總兵王璽建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),嘉(jia)靖萬歷年(nian)間(jian)均進行增筑(zhu)(zhu)。北自老牛(niu)灣(wan)與(yu)外長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)相連,南經寺溝渡口(kou)退至河(he)(he)(he)曲縣(xian)石(shi)(shi)(shi)梯口(kou)隘。偏(pian)關(guan)境(jing)內長(chang)40公(gong)里(li)。此段長(chang)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)多(duo)有(you)(you)黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)懸崖(ya)天(tian)險(xian)屏障,多(duo)數地段未(wei)筑(zhu)(zhu)墻(qiang)體,只在(zai)溝口(kou)崖(ya)頭筑(zhu)(zhu)寨據(ju)守,沿(yan)(yan)岸(an)多(duo)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)望臺(tai)設防。只有(you)(you)寺溝至黑豆埝,關(guan)河(he)(he)(he)口(kou)至尖(jian)刺灣(wan)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)石(shi)(shi)(shi)城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang),紅色粘土夯筑(zhu)(zhu),外墻(qiang)條石(shi)(shi)(shi)、城(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)磚包(bao)之(zhi)。100——200米(mi)筑(zhu)(zhu)馬面或敵接。其(qi)走(zou)向(xiang)均建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)于黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)崖(ya)頭、溝豁。數百年(nian)來雖有(you)(you)自然及(ji)人為破壞,僅存土墻(qiang),但(dan)氣勢不以當年(nian)。土墻(qiang)平均底寬(kuan)七(qi)米(mi),頂寬(kuan)五米(mi),殘局五到七(qi)米(mi)。是山西(xi)(xi)黃(huang)河(he)(he)(he)邊上的重要文(wen)(wen)化景觀之(zhi)一。

在偏頭(tou)關(guan)東(dong)南一公(gong)里,有(you)凌霄塔,系(xi)明代(dai)建(jian)筑(zhu)。據有(you)關(guan)碑文(wen)記載,創(chuang)建(jian)于(yu)明代(dai)天啟元(yuan)年(nian)(1621),始為(wei)七級(ji)。崇禎八(ba)年(nian)(1635)加高(gao)(gao)四級(ji)。清康熙十(shi)八(ba)年(nian)(1679)、咸豐七年(nian)(1857)均(jun)有(you)維修,為(wei)磚石結構、八(ba)角形(xing)樓(lou)閣式(shi)空心雁塔。基(ji)座二層(ceng)塔底(di)部周長29米(mi),塔高(gao)(gao)35米(mi),外觀(guan)形(xing)似(si)文(wen)筆,故名“文(wen)筆凌霄”塔。從(cong)二層(ceng)開始,每層(ceng)四個(ge)窗(chuang)洞。由內壁隱筑(zhu)樓(lou)梯,保存完好(hao),為(wei)偏頭(tou)關(guan)之一大景觀(guan)。偏關(guan)縣(xian)的(de)長城遺跡,還(huan)有(you)黃河(he)(he)(he)邊(bian)(bian)堡屆,又稱(cheng)“西河(he)(he)(he)石邊(bian)(bian)”,俗(su)稱(cheng)“黃河(he)(he)(he)邊(bian)(bian)”。這條明代(dai)長城,北接(jie)偏關(guan)縣(xian)老牛(niu)灣,沿黃河(he)(he)(he)岸(an)邊(bian)(bian)蜿蜒而(er)行(xing),南經山西河(he)(he)(he)曲縣(xian)石梯口隘,全長約100公(gong)里。

此邊地(di)處晉陜峽谷之中,黃河充當:“天塹”。長城建筑(zhu)因地(di)制宜,通道豁口之處,又筑(zhu)石邊、土(tu)墻,陡峭(qiao)的崖壁(bi)山上僅(jin)筑(zhu)烽火臺,連(lian)綿不(bu)斷,構成嚴密(mi)的軍事(shi)防(fang)御(yu)體系。

偏關城(cheng)歷經(jing)明清兩(liang)代興建(jian)(jian),規模大(da)展,盡管四面環山(shan),地(di)處(chu)盆地(di),但隨著(zhu)東高(gao)西低的(de)(de)山(shan)勢(shi),象一只頭枕(zhen)塔梁山(shan),臥于關河川(chuan)的(de)(de)巨犀(xi),又稱(cheng)“犀(xi)牛望月”城(cheng)。城(cheng)內(nei)主大(da)街縱(zong)貫(guan)南北(bei),樓房林(lin)立,商賈云集,街市一新(xin)。明清建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)古(gu)民居,青瓦房舍(she),各抱地(di)勢(shi),一展古(gu)樸古(gu)香(xiang)的(de)(de)風韻(yun)。城(cheng)中央的(de)(de)鐘鼓(gu)樓,石基磚拱,紅墻青瓦,飛檐歇山(shan)頂,雄姿穩(wen)健,十分氣派。古(gu)時關城(cheng)內(nei)有寺廟(miao)108座,建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)宏(hong)偉。“雄關鼎寧(ning)雁,山(shan)連紫塞長(chang),地(di)控(kong)黃(huang)河北(bei),金城(cheng)鞏晉強。”明山(shan)西巡撫何喬新(xin)對軍事(shi)重鎮—偏頭關給予高(gao)度評價。

實用信息

交通

偏關(guan)河朔州(zhou)、寧武(wu)、神池等地有班(ban)車來(lai)往(wang)(wang),但車次不多。從內蒙古往(wang)(wang)太原的班(ban)車也經過偏關(guan)。朔州(zhou)每(mei)天7:00 8:00 10:00 12:30 17:00有班(ban)車發往(wang)(wang)偏關(guan),票(piao)價30元,3小時(shi)左右(you)到達。

住宿

偏關賓館

飲食

偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)縣地處晉西北,受氣候及光照影響,各種(zhong)美食(shi)(shi)很(hen)有(you)特色,可(ke)稱人(ren)間(jian)美味(wei)(wei),叫(jiao)人(ren)欲罷不(bu)能,來(lai)(lai)到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)頭(tou)關(guan)(guan)(guan),第(di)一(yi)要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)豬肉(rou)(rou),這里(li)的(de)豬肉(rou)(rou)生長期長,肥(fei)肉(rou)(rou)唇齒留香(xiang)(xiang),肥(fei)而(er)不(bu)膩,瘦(shou)肉(rou)(rou)勁(jing)道唯美。用(yong)豬肉(rou)(rou)制(zhi)作(zuo)的(de)典型食(shi)(shi)品是大(da)燴(hui)菜、豬頭(tou)肉(rou)(rou)。來(lai)(lai)到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)首先要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)這兩樣。第(di)二是偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉(rou)(rou),這里(li)地處晉蒙交界(jie),羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉(rou)(rou)肥(fei)瘦(shou)適(shi)中,肉(rou)(rou)質鮮(xian)美且烹調(diao)有(you)方(fang),這里(li)的(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉(rou)(rou)要(yao)遠遠超(chao)過(guo)所謂(wei)的(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉(rou)(rou)泡饃,來(lai)(lai)到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)要(yao)品嘗最好(hao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)的(de)燉(dun)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)肉(rou)(rou),不(bu)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)羊(yang)(yang)(yang),不(bu)知人(ren)間(jian)香(xiang)(xiang)。第(di)三要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)油(you)糕(gao),用(yong)黃(huang)米(mi)制(zhi)作(zuo),在華北其他地方(fang)又(you)稱黍子米(mi),該糕(gao)以香(xiang)(xiang)、脆、軟著稱,再配(pei)合胡油(you)炸制(zhi),要(yao)比南方(fang)糯米(mi)制(zhi)品高出一(yi)個檔次,吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)過(guo)后唇齒留香(xiang)(xiang),恨(hen)不(bu)能吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)飽為止,到(dao)這里(li)一(yi)定(ding)要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)油(you)糕(gao) 。 第(di)四要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜割,外(wai)地的(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜基本燉(dun)個湯吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),味(wei)(wei)道很(hen)一(yi)般(ban),膻味(wei)(wei)很(hen)重,而(er)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)雜要(yao)配(pei)合土豆粉條吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi),味(wei)(wei)道鮮(xian)美,到(dao)一(yi)壺(hu)老陳醋,抓一(yi)把香(xiang)(xiang)菜撒(sa),可(ke)謂(wei)人(ren)間(jian)美味(wei)(wei)。第(di)五要(yao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)莜面,這里(li)的(de)莜面是真正的(de)高寒地帶莜面,尤(you)其湯料調(diao)味(wei)(wei)獨特,三高患者可(ke)天(tian)天(tian)使用(yong)。第(di)五是涼碗(wan)托,偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)碗(wan)托用(yong)蕎面制(zhi)作(zuo),配(pei)合美味(wei)(wei)湯料,清涼爽(shuang)口,沁人(ren)心脾,從小到(dao)大(da)天(tian)天(tian)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)也(ye)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)不(bu)膩,到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)不(bu)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)腕托白走一(yi)遭。偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)美食(shi)(shi)還有(you)很(hen)多(duo),數(shu)不(bu)勝數(shu),希(xi)望(wang)到(dao)偏(pian)(pian)(pian)(pian)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)游客一(yi)定(ding)要(yao)品嘗,不(bu)好(hao)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)不(bu)要(yao)錢。

歷史沿革

歷史沿革

偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)縣(xian)在漢、唐的(de)時候還(huan)不出名,也沒有設(she)縣(xian)治,到(dao)了五(wu)代十國時期北(bei)(bei)漢末(mo)代皇帝劉鈞(jun)于天會元年(nian)(957年(nian))置偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)砦;北(bei)(bei)宋時這里成為(wei)與西(xi)夏交兵的(de)國防(fang)前(qian)線(xian),因(yin)駐扎重兵,地位一度非(fei)常高;遼(liao)置寧邊(bian)州;金時仍(reng)用該稱呼;元代時候州、縣(xian)俱廢,改偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)砦為(wei)偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關(guan),明洪武年(nian)間(jian)始(shi)筑(zhu)今天的(de)關(guan)城(cheng),明成化年(nian)間(jian)設(she)偏(pian)(pian)頭(tou)(tou)關(guan)守御千(qian)戶所,嘉靖年(nian)間(jian)上升(sheng)為(wei)路城(cheng),萬歷(li)年(nian)間(jian)又大規(gui)模建(jian)設(she)此城(cheng),稱為(wei)“九塞屏藩”;清雍正年(nian)間(jian)改偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)為(wei)縣(xian),屬寧武府,又名通邊(bian)關(guan);1940年(nian)解放。偏(pian)(pian)關(guan)與寧武關(guan)、雁門(men)關(guan),合稱外三(san)關(guan)。此三(san)關(guan)鼎峙晉北(bei)(bei),互(hu)為(wei)犄角(jiao),是北(bei)(bei)疆之門(men)戶,京師(shi)之屏障(zhang)。

偏(pian)關的(de)(de)(de)故事涉(she)及(ji)到了(le)明武宗。明武宗是(shi)(shi)一個非常(chang)有趣的(de)(de)(de)皇(huang)帝,具(ju)體就不(bu)展開說了(le),這里只說他(ta)喜歡(huan)打(da)仗(zhang),可(ke)是(shi)(shi)明朝是(shi)(shi)歷代以(yi)來(lai)(lai)把儒(ru)教(jiao)禮數等傳(chuan)統(tong)(tong)思想(xiang)貫徹(che)得最徹(che)底的(de)(de)(de)一個王朝,是(shi)(shi)一個純粹的(de)(de)(de)文人統(tong)(tong)治社會。皇(huang)帝也只是(shi)(shi)一個擺(bai)設(she),要不(bu)然萬歷在(zai)位(wei)五十四年(nian)中有二(er)(er)十五年(nian)沒(mei)上(shang)朝,社會也正常(chang)運轉(zhuan)呢。所以(yi)武宗就很不(bu)舒(shu)服,怎么辦(ban)呢?武宗想(xiang)了(le)個著(zhu)兒(er)(er),虛擬(ni)了(le)一個叫朱壽(shou)的(de)(de)(de)大將軍,并下(xia)詔封(feng)官(guan):總(zong)督(du)軍務威武大將軍總(zong)兵官(guan)朱壽(shou),統(tong)(tong)領六(liu)師,掃除邊患,累(lei)建奇功,特(te)加封(feng)鎮國公,歲支錄(lu)五千石,著(zhu)吏(li)部(bu)如剌奉行!不(bu)久又(you)加封(feng)朱壽(shou)為(wei)太師。這著(zhu)兒(er)(er)好啊,以(yi)后想(xiang)打(da)仗(zhang)或者干點啥(sha)事,就以(yi)影子武士的(de)(de)(de)名義來(lai)(lai)操(cao)辦(ban),事情辦(ban)砸了(le)也好推卸責任,同時還拿到了(le)一份兒(er)(er)工資(zi)。明武宗二(er)(er)次西巡的(de)(de)(de)時候曾在(zai)這里小(xiao)住過。

歷史作用

明人有詩云:

半壁(bi)孤(gu)城(cheng)水(shui)一(yi)(yi)灣(wan),萬家(jia)煙火壯(zhuang)雄關(guan)。 黃河曲曲濤(tao)(tao)(tao)南下,紫塞隆隆障(zhang)北環。 明朝時,偏頭關(guan)既是晉北門戶,也是晉北與內蒙古(gu)互(hu)(hu)市的(de)(de)(de)通(tong)商口。每逢戰爭的(de)(de)(de)烽煙消失之(zhi)(zhi)后,邊禁開放(fang),關(guan)城(cheng)及其(qi)周圍的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)些堡寨(zhai)就成(cheng)為蒙漢人(ren)民(min)互(hu)(hu)市的(de)(de)(de)區域。蒙古(gu)族(zu)以(yi)大批的(de)(de)(de)草原駿馬(ma)進(jin)入互(hu)(hu)市區,換(huan)取(qu)漢人(ren)的(de)(de)(de)絲棉織品(pin)、茶葉等物。互(hu)(hu)市開放(fang)之(zhi)(zhi)日,關(guan)城(cheng)、堡寨(zhai)將士披(pi)甲(jia)戴盔,列隊城(cheng)外,城(cheng)樓之(zhi)(zhi)上,禮炮轟(hong)鳴,鼓(gu)角擂動(dong),慶祝(zhu)這(zhe)民(min)族(zu)交往的(de)(de)(de)盛會。邊地將領、政府官員、各地商人(ren)都紛紛前來赴會,通(tong)過商品(pin)的(de)(de)(de)交流(liu)(liu),交流(liu)(liu)著民(min)族(zu)間的(de)(de)(de)感情(qing)(qing)。 如今,關(guan)城(cheng)、堡寨(zhai)、邊墻(qiang)早已隨(sui)著時間的(de)(de)(de)流(liu)(liu)逝(shi),失去了它們(men)當(dang)年的(de)(de)(de)作用,成(cheng)為歷(li)史(shi)的(de)(de)(de)遺跡。它們(men)的(de)(de)(de)存在,只能告(gao)訴人(ren)們(men),中(zhong)華各民(min)族(zu)的(de)(de)(de)感情(qing)(qing),永遠像(xiang)濤(tao)(tao)(tao)濤(tao)(tao)(tao)黃河,奔流(liu)(liu)不息,任何(he)屏障(zhang)都是隔不斷(duan)的(de)(de)(de)。

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