倒(dao)馬(ma)關,因山路(lu)險峻,戰馬(ma)到此經常要摔倒(dao)而得名(ming)。
原關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)全(quan)長約2.5公(gong)里,城(cheng)(cheng)池(chi)占地(di)約7萬(wan)平方米(mi)(mi),城(cheng)(cheng)墻底寬(kuan)6米(mi)(mi),頂寬(kuan)4米(mi)(mi),高約10米(mi)(mi)。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)為條石和自然石加(jia)青磚筑(zhu)成,東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)二門(men)(men)上(shang)有(you)(you)城(cheng)(cheng)樓(lou),外(wai)以溝壕環繞,南面(mian)依山,北(bei)臨(lin)唐河,城(cheng)(cheng)垣(yuan)上(shang)列敵樓(lou)臺(tai)7座(zuo)。關(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)有(you)(you)東(dong)(dong)、西(xi)(xi)、北(bei)三(san)個城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)(men),東(dong)(dong)門(men)(men)稱(cheng)“居仁”,西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)稱(cheng)“由羲”,北(bei)門(men)(men)稱(cheng)“宣(xuan)威(wei)”。東(dong)(dong)西(xi)(xi)門(men)(men)外(wai)各(ge)設(she)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng),東(dong)(dong)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)設(she)有(you)(you)南北(bei)二門(men)(men)。西(xi)(xi)甕(weng)城(cheng)(cheng)僅設(she)南門(men)(men)一(yi)座(zuo),出(chu)南門(men)(men)往(wang)西(xi)(xi)約百米(mi)(mi)處唐河岸邊(bian)設(she)水關(guan)(guan)戰臺(tai)樓(lou)一(yi)座(zuo),樓(lou)下設(she)有(you)(you)關(guan)(guan)門(men)(men),是由下城(cheng)(cheng)通往(wang)上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)的惟一(yi)通道(dao)。北(bei)門(men)(men)外(wai)原設(she)戰臺(tai)樓(lou)一(yi)座(zuo),民國二十(shi)八年被洪(hong)水沖毀。城(cheng)(cheng)內(nei)正街寬(kuan)12米(mi)(mi),十(shi)字(zi)街正中原來建有(you)(you)兩(liang)層的閱兵樓(lou),樓(lou)上(shang)設(she)有(you)(you)十(shi)字(zi)通道(dao),樓(lou)北(bei)為官署所在(zai)地(di),有(you)(you)大堂、二堂、三(san)堂。
乘坐661路至(zhi)“倒馬關”站下
倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)置關(guan)(guan)(guan)較(jiao)早(zao),《戰國策(ce)》稱其為(wei)鴻(hong)上(shang)關(guan)(guan)(guan),漢稱常山關(guan)(guan)(guan)。但(dan)目前(qian)可見(jian)到的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)(guan)(guan)于修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)記(ji)載(zai),都(dou)是(shi)明(ming)朝的(de)(de)(de)。倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)分上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)下(xia)城(cheng)(cheng),上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)明(ming)洪武初年(nian)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de),后改名(ming)上(shang)城(cheng)(cheng)口(kou);下(xia)城(cheng)(cheng)即今倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)。現倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)鄉政府院內,保存著一(yi)(yi)塊已從中(zhong)折(zhe)斷(duan)的(de)(de)(de)漢白玉石碑(bei),為(wei)《倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)建(jian)(jian)城(cheng)(cheng)碑(bei)》。碑(bei)文記(ji)載(zai)了1465年(nian)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)的(de)(de)(de)情況(kuang)。由此可知,倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)始建(jian)(jian)于1452年(nian),后又(you)于1465年(nian)又(you)進(jin)行了一(yi)(yi)次(ci)大規模的(de)(de)(de)修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)。倒(dao)(dao)馬(ma)關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng),周長約2.5公里,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)底(di)寬(kuan)6米(mi),頂寬(kuan)4米(mi),高約10米(mi),墻(qiang)為(wei)黃土(tu)夯筑(zhu)(zhu)外(wai)砌磚石。關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)東、西、北設有3個城(cheng)(cheng)門。關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)設計獨特(te),它依峭(qiao)壁,傍深(shen)澗(jian),一(yi)(yi)半在溝谷,一(yi)(yi)半在山上(shang),整座關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)依地勢而建(jian)(jian),唐河水(shui)由西、北、東三面環繞關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)而流。山、水(shui)、關(guan)(guan)(guan)城(cheng)(cheng)在這里相得益(yi)彰,互(hu)為(wei)險阻。古人謀略(lve)之深(shen),設防之嚴,建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)之奇,令人嘆(tan)為(wei)觀(guan)止(zhi)。
據《畿輔通(tong)志》記載,倒(dao)馬關(guan)(guan)在河北(bei)唐縣西(xi)北(bei)60公里,山路險峻,馬為(wei)之倒(dao),故而(er)得名。倒(dao)馬關(guan)(guan)位于太(tai)行山東麓,北(bei)臨內長(chang)城,背靠(kao)唐河。東南為(wei)險要的(de)十八(ba)盤嶺。自古以(yi)來,倒(dao)馬關(guan)(guan)就為(wei)戰略要沖。據《后漢書》記載,建(jian)武(wu)十五(公元(yuan)39年(nian)(nian))年(nian)(nian),因(yin)匈(xiong)奴(nu)常(chang)犯(fan)東漢北(bei)部邊境,東漢政府遷徙雁門、代(dai)郡、上(shang)谷三郡居(ju)民于常(chang)山關(guan)(guan)(倒(dao)馬關(guan)(guan))、居(ju)庸關(guan)(guan)以(yi)東地(di)方居(ju)住,防止匈(xiong)奴(nu)的(de)侵擾,由此可見(jian)倒(dao)馬關(guan)(guan)的(de)屏障作用。
倒馬(ma)關處于一條(tiao)古老(lao)的通道(dao)上(shang),這條(tiao)道(dao)稱為“靈丘道(dao)”。《魏書(shu)·高(gao)(gao)祖紀》載,太(tai)(tai)和六年(公(gong)元482年)曾(ceng)調集州郡5萬人(ren)修治靈丘道(dao)。靈丘道(dao)北(bei)起平(ping)城(山(shan)(shan)西(xi)大同市東(dong)北(bei)),南(nan)越恒山(shan)(shan),自靈丘以(yi)下(xia),略循今(jin)唐河谷道(dao)出太(tai)(tai)行山(shan)(shan),南(nan)抵中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(今(jin)河北(bei)定縣),是(shi)當時山(shan)(shan)西(xi)高(gao)(gao)原北(bei)部通向華北(bei)平(ping)原的交通要道(dao),倒馬(ma)關就(jiu)是(shi)這條(tiao)道(dao)路上(shang)的重要關隘。
明朝馬中(zhong)錫《倒馬關(guan)詩并序》中(zhong)說:“關(guan)有兩(liang)(liang)山對峙,其(qi)路極險,相傳楊六郎(lang)到(dao)此馬踣,故名。”后人(ren)為(wei)紀念楊延昭(六郎(lang))鎮守三關(guan)的功(gong)績,于明正德十五(wu)年(nian)(公元1520年(nian)),在倒馬關(guan)城西3公里的馬圈(quan)山上修(xiu)建(jian)了“六郎(lang)碑(bei)(bei)”。碑(bei)(bei)通體高1.8米,寬60厘米,為(wei)漢白玉雕(diao)鑿(zao)而成,碑(bei)(bei)額抹角及(ji)兩(liang)(liang)邊雕(diao)云紋花邊圖案(an)。碑(bei)(bei)文(wen)為(wei):“宋將楊六郎(lang)拒守之處。”楊延昭是并州(今(jin)山西太(tai)原(yuan))人(ren),宋真宗(zong)時為(wei)保(bao)州(今(jin)河(he)北(bei)保(bao)定)緣邊都巡檢使(shi)(shi),后因(yin)與(yu)遼兵作戰有功(gong)升(sheng)為(wei)保(bao)州防(fang)御使(shi)(shi)。楊延昭在邊防(fang)鎮守20余年(nian),遼兵甚為(wei)畏(wei)懼(ju),千百年(nian)來,許(xu)多文(wen)人(ren)學士到(dao)倒馬關(guan)憑吊六郎(lang)碑(bei)(bei),稱頌吟懷楊六郎(lang)威鎮邊關(guan)的不朽(xiu)業績。