庖廚祖師
易(yi)牙(ya)何許人(ren)也(ye),齊國彭城(今天的江(jiang)蘇徐州)人(ren)。
易(yi)牙是(shi)第(di)一(yi)個運用調和之(zhi)事操作烹(peng)飪的(de)庖廚,好調味(wei)(wei),很善于(yu)做(zuo)菜。因為他(ta)是(shi)廚師出(chu)身,烹(peng)飪技(ji)藝很高,他(ta)又是(shi)第(di)一(yi)個開私(si)人飯館的(de)人,所(suo)以他(ta)被廚師們稱作祖師。王充《論衡(heng)·譴告》說(shuo):“狄牙之(zhi)調味(wei)(wei)也,酸則(ze)沃(wo)(澆)之(zhi)以水(shui),淡則(ze)加(jia)之(zhi)以成,水(shui)火(huo)相變易(yi),故膳無咸淡之(zhi)失也。”即(ji)(ji)易(yi)牙通過水(shui)、咸(鹽)、火(huo)的(de)調和使用,做(zuo)出(chu)酸咸合宜(yi),美(mei)味(wei)(wei)適(shi)口的(de)飯菜來。舊(jiu)彭(peng)城(今(jin)江(jiang)蘇徐州)流傳(chuan)有詩(shi):“雍巫善味(wei)(wei)祖彭(peng)鏗(keng)(雍巫:即(ji)(ji)易(yi)牙,彭(peng)鏗(keng):即(ji)(ji)彭(peng)祖),三(san)坊求師古彭(peng)城。九(jiu)會(hui)諸(zhu)侯(hou)任司(si)(si)庖(九(jiu)會(hui)諸(zhu)侯(hou):指齊(qi)桓公“九(jiu)合諸(zhu)侯(hou),一(yi)匡天下。”庖:廚房,司(si)(si)庖,即(ji)(ji)管飲食的(de)官),八(ba)盤(pan)五簋宴王公(簋:盛食物的(de)容器)。”
易牙與(yu)齊國(guo)(guo)彭城(cheng)(今(jin)徐州)的(de)淵源(yuan)使他留名于今(jin)日的(de)飲食文化中(zhong)。齊國(guo)(guo)菜(cai)是(shi)我國(guo)(guo)最早(zao)的(de)地方風味(wei)菜(cai),后來成(cheng)為中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)的(de)四大菜(cai)系之一(魯(lu)菜(cai)),以其(qi)味(wei)鮮(xian)咸脆嫩、風味(wei)獨特、制作精細享譽(yu)海內外。易牙對魯(lu)菜(cai)的(de)形(xing)成(cheng)無疑是(shi)有(you)功的(de)。
后世人(ren)撰寫食(shi)經(jing)之類的作品(pin),托名易(yi)牙(ya)也是常見的。例如:明(ming)(ming)代人(ren)韓奕,曾經(jing)以造、脯(fu)、蔬菜、籠造、爐造、糕餅、齋(zhai)食(shi)、諸湯和(he)諸藥八類內容編成(cheng)一書,書名就托稱為《易(yi)牙(ya)遺意》。另外,明(ming)(ming)代人(ren)周履靖著《續(xu)易(yi)牙(ya)遺意》,也是托名的仿古(gu)食(shi)經(jing)之作。
烹子獻糜
一次桓公(gong)(gong)對易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)說(shuo):“寡人嘗遍天下美(mei)味(wei),唯獨未食人肉(rou)(rou),倒為(wei)憾事。”桓公(gong)(gong)此言本是無(wu)心(xin)的(de)戲(xi)言,而易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)卻(que)把這話牢記在心(xin),一心(xin)想著賣弄好自(zi)己(ji)的(de)本事,好博得桓公(gong)(gong)的(de)歡心(xin)。國君(jun)何(he)等(deng)尊貴,絕不能(neng)食用死囚、平民之肉(rou)(rou)。后(hou)來(lai)他看見(jian)自(zi)己(ji)4歲的(de)兒(er)子(zi),選(xuan)了用自(zi)己(ji)兒(er)子(zi)的(de)肉(rou)(rou)。桓公(gong)(gong)在一次午膳(shan)上,喝到一小(xiao)金鼎(ding)鮮嫩無(wu)比(bi),從未嘗過的(de)肉(rou)(rou)湯(tang),便詢問易(yi)牙(ya)(ya):“此系何(he)肉(rou)(rou)?”易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)哭著說(shuo)是自(zi)己(ji)兒(er)子(zi)的(de)肉(rou)(rou),為(wei)祈(qi)國君(jun)身體安泰無(wu)虞,殺子(zi)以(yi)獻主公(gong)(gong)。當桓公(gong)(gong)得知這是易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)兒(er)子(zi)的(de)肉(rou)(rou)時,內(nei)心(xin)很是不舒服,卻(que)被易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)殺子(zi)為(wei)自(zi)己(ji)食的(de)行(xing)為(wei)所感動(dong),認(ren)為(wei)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)愛他勝過親骨肉(rou)(rou),從此桓公(gong)(gong)寵信易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)。
管仲遺訓
易牙(ya)(ya)和管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)同時在齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)國(guo)作事(shi)。周襄王七年(nian)(公(gong)(gong)元前645年(nian)),為(wei)(wei)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)創立霸(ba)業嘔心(xin)瀝(li)血的(de)(de)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)患(huan)了(le)(le)重(zhong)病,齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)去探望他,詢問(wen)他誰可(ke)以(yi)(yi)接受相位。管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo):“國(guo)君(jun)應該是最了(le)(le)解臣(chen)(chen)下的(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)欲任鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya),管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)誠(cheng)懇地(di)說(shuo)(shuo):“鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)是君(jun)子,但他善惡(e)過于(yu)分明(ming),見人(ren)之一惡(e),終身(shen)不(bu)忘,這樣是不(bu)可(ke)以(yi)(yi)為(wei)(wei)政(zheng)的(de)(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)問(wen):“易牙(ya)(ya)怎樣?”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo):“易牙(ya)(ya)為(wei)(wei)了(le)(le)滿足國(guo)君(jun)的(de)(de)要求不(bu)惜烹(peng)了(le)(le)自己的(de)(de)兒子以(yi)(yi)討(tao)好(hao)國(guo)君(jun),沒有(you)人(ren)性,不(bu)宜為(wei)(wei)相。請國(guo)君(jun)務必疏(shu)遠易牙(ya)(ya)、衛開方、豎刁這三個(ge)人(ren),寵信他們(men),國(guo)家必亂。”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說(shuo)(shuo)罷,見齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)面露難色,便(bian)向他推薦了(le)(le)為(wei)(wei)人(ren)忠厚(hou),不(bu)恥下問(wen)、居家不(bu)忘公(gong)(gong)事(shi)的(de)(de)隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng),說(shuo)(shuo)隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng)可(ke)以(yi)(yi)幫助國(guo)君(jun)管(guan)(guan)理(li)國(guo)政(zheng)。遺憾的(de)(de)是,齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)并沒有(you)聽進管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)話。易牙(ya)(ya)聽說(shuo)(shuo)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)與管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)這段對(dui)話,便(bian)去挑撥(bo)鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya),說(shuo)(shuo)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)阻(zu)止齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)任命(ming)鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)。鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)(ya)笑道:“管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)薦隰(xi)朋(peng)(peng),說(shuo)(shuo)明(ming)他一心(xin)為(wei)(wei)社稷(ji)宗廟(miao)考慮,不(bu)存私心(xin)偏愛友人(ren)。現(xian)在我做司寇(kou),驅逐(zhu)佞臣(chen)(chen),正合我意。如果(guo)讓我當(dang)政(zheng),哪里還會(hui)有(you)你們(men)容身(shen)之處(chu)?”易牙(ya)(ya)討(tao)了(le)(le)個(ge)沒趣(qu),深(shen)覺管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)交友之密,知人(ren)之深(shen),于(yu)是灰溜(liu)溜(liu)地(di)走(zou)了(le)(le)。不(bu)久管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)病逝。齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)也就將易牙(ya)(ya)等三人(ren)撤(che)職,永遠不(bu)準(zhun)入朝。
但過了(le)三年(nian)(nian),齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓公不見三人(ren),感(gan)覺(jue)吃東西(xi)都沒有(you)滋(zi)味了(le),說:「仲父(管仲)不已過孚?」于是又召三人(ren)回宮(gong)(gong)。第二年(nian)(nian),齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓公得重(zhong)病 ,易(yi)牙與(yu)豎(shu)刁(diao)(diao)等擁立公子(zi)無虧,迫(po)使太(tai)子(zi)昭(zhao)奔宋,齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)國(guo)五(wu)公子(zi)因此發生內戰。易(yi)牙等堵塞(sai)宮(gong)(gong)門,假傳(chuan)君命,不許任何(he)人(ren)進宮(gong)(gong)。有(you)二宮(gong)(gong)女(nv)乘人(ren)不備,越(yue)墻入(ru)宮(gong)(gong),探望齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓公;桓公正餓(e)得發慌,索取食物。宮(gong)(gong)女(nv)便把易(yi)牙、豎(shu)刁(diao)(diao)作亂,堵塞(sai)宮(gong)(gong)門,無法供應(ying)飲食的情況(kuang)告(gao)訴了(le)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)桓公,桓公悔之晚(wan)矣,終被(bei)餓(e)死。后來,齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)人(ren)殺了(le)作亂的公子(zi)無虧,立太(tai)子(zi)昭(zhao)為(wei)君,即(ji)齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)孝公。經過這場內亂,齊(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)國(guo)的霸(ba)業開始衰落。中原(yuan)霸(ba)業逐漸移到了(le)晉國(guo)。
傳(chuan)說(shuo)易牙干政(zheng)失(shi)敗后避居彭城,操烹飪(ren)業至(zhi)終,而易牙食療菜在(zai)彭城(今徐州(zhou))廣為(wei)流(liu)傳(chuan)。
易牙雖有“殺子以適君(jun)”,并參與發動政(zheng)變,被后人(ren)所唾棄,但(dan)易牙作為廚藝的(de)化身(shen),已深(shen)深(shen)融入(ru)了中華(hua)民族源遠(yuan)流長的(de)飲食(shi)文化中。