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庖廚祖師

易牙何(he)許人也，齊國彭(peng)城（今(jin)天的江蘇徐州）人。

易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)是第(di)一(yi)個運用調(diao)(diao)和(he)之(zhi)事操作烹飪的(de)庖廚，好調(diao)(diao)味，很善于做菜。因為他(ta)是廚師(shi)(shi)出(chu)身，烹飪技藝很高，他(ta)又(you)是第(di)一(yi)個開(kai)私人飯(fan)館的(de)人，所以(yi)(yi)他(ta)被廚師(shi)(shi)們稱(cheng)作祖(zu)師(shi)(shi)。王充《論衡(heng)·譴告(gao)》說：“狄牙(ya)(ya)之(zhi)調(diao)(diao)味也，酸則(ze)沃(澆)之(zhi)以(yi)(yi)水，淡則(ze)加之(zhi)以(yi)(yi)成，水火相(xiang)變(bian)易(yi)，故膳無咸淡之(zhi)失(shi)也。”即(ji)(ji)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)通過水、咸(鹽)、火的(de)調(diao)(diao)和(he)使用，做出(chu)酸咸合宜，美味適(shi)口的(de)飯(fan)菜來(lai)。舊(jiu)彭(peng)城(今江(jiang)蘇徐州)流傳有詩：“雍(yong)巫善味祖(zu)彭(peng)鏗(雍(yong)巫：即(ji)(ji)易(yi)牙(ya)(ya)，彭(peng)鏗：即(ji)(ji)彭(peng)祖(zu))，三坊求師(shi)(shi)古彭(peng)城。九會諸侯任司庖(九會諸侯：指齊桓公“九合諸侯，一(yi)匡天下。”庖：廚房，司庖，即(ji)(ji)管(guan)飲食的(de)官)，八盤五簋宴王公(簋：盛食物的(de)容器)。”

易(yi)牙與齊(qi)國彭城(今(jin)徐州)的(de)淵源使他留名于今(jin)日的(de)飲食文化(hua)中。齊(qi)國菜是我(wo)國最早的(de)地(di)方風味(wei)(wei)(wei)菜，后來成(cheng)為中國的(de)四(si)大(da)菜系之(zhi)一(yi)(魯菜)，以其(qi)味(wei)(wei)(wei)鮮咸脆嫩(nen)、風味(wei)(wei)(wei)獨特、制作精(jing)細(xi)享(xiang)譽海內外。易(yi)牙對魯菜的(de)形成(cheng)無疑(yi)是有功的(de)。

后(hou)世(shi)人(ren)撰寫食經(jing)(jing)之(zhi)類的(de)(de)作品，托名(ming)易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙也(ye)(ye)是常見的(de)(de)。例如：明(ming)(ming)代人(ren)韓奕，曾經(jing)(jing)以造、脯(fu)、蔬菜、籠(long)造、爐造、糕餅、齋食、諸(zhu)湯和諸(zhu)藥八類內容(rong)編(bian)成一書，書名(ming)就托稱(cheng)為(wei)《易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙遺意》。另外，明(ming)(ming)代人(ren)周履靖著《續易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙遺意》，也(ye)(ye)是托名(ming)的(de)(de)仿古食經(jing)(jing)之(zhi)作。

烹子獻糜

一次(ci)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)對易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)說：“寡人(ren)嘗遍天下美味，唯獨未(wei)食(shi)人(ren)肉(rou)，倒為(wei)(wei)憾事。”桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)此(ci)(ci)言(yan)本是(shi)無心(xin)的(de)(de)(de)戲言(yan)，而(er)易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)卻(que)把這(zhe)話(hua)牢記在心(xin)，一心(xin)想著(zhu)賣(mai)弄好自己(ji)的(de)(de)(de)本事，好博(bo)得桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)(de)歡心(xin)。國(guo)君何等尊貴，絕(jue)不(bu)能食(shi)用死囚、平民(min)之(zhi)肉(rou)。后來他看見自己(ji)4歲的(de)(de)(de)兒(er)子(zi)(zi)，選了用自己(ji)兒(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)肉(rou)。桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)在一次(ci)午膳上(shang)，喝到一小(xiao)金鼎鮮嫩無比，從未(wei)嘗過的(de)(de)(de)肉(rou)湯，便(bian)詢問易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)：“此(ci)(ci)系何肉(rou)？”易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)哭著(zhu)說是(shi)自己(ji)兒(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)肉(rou)，為(wei)(wei)祈(qi)國(guo)君身(shen)體安泰無虞，殺子(zi)(zi)以獻主公(gong)(gong)。當桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)得知(zhi)這(zhe)是(shi)易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)兒(er)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)肉(rou)時，內(nei)心(xin)很是(shi)不(bu)舒服，卻(que)被易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)殺子(zi)(zi)為(wei)(wei)自己(ji)食(shi)的(de)(de)(de)行為(wei)(wei)所感(gan)動(dong)，認為(wei)(wei)易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)愛他勝(sheng)過親骨肉(rou)，從此(ci)(ci)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)寵信(xin)易牙(ya)(ya)(ya)。

管仲遺訓

易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)和管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)同(tong)時在齊(qi)(qi)國(guo)(guo)作事。周襄(xiang)王七年(公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)元前645年)，為(wei)(wei)齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)創立霸業嘔心瀝血(xue)的(de)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)患了(le)(le)重病(bing)，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)去探(tan)望他，詢問他誰(shui)可以接受相位。管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說：“國(guo)(guo)君應(ying)該是(shi)(shi)最了(le)(le)解臣下的(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)欲任鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)，管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)誠懇(ken)地說：“鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)是(shi)(shi)君子，但他善惡過(guo)于分明，見人(ren)之一惡，終身不(bu)(bu)忘(wang)，這樣是(shi)(shi)不(bu)(bu)可以為(wei)(wei)政(zheng)的(de)。”齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)問：“易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)怎樣？”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說：“易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)為(wei)(wei)了(le)(le)滿足國(guo)(guo)君的(de)要求不(bu)(bu)惜烹了(le)(le)自(zi)己的(de)兒子以討好國(guo)(guo)君，沒有人(ren)性，不(bu)(bu)宜為(wei)(wei)相。請(qing)國(guo)(guo)君務必疏遠(yuan)易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)、衛開(kai)方、豎刁這三(san)(san)個(ge)(ge)人(ren)，寵信他們，國(guo)(guo)家必亂。”管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)說罷(ba)，見齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)面(mian)露(lu)難色(se)，便(bian)向他推薦(jian)了(le)(le)為(wei)(wei)人(ren)忠厚，不(bu)(bu)恥(chi)下問、居家不(bu)(bu)忘(wang)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)事的(de)隰(xi)朋，說隰(xi)朋可以幫助國(guo)(guo)君管(guan)(guan)理(li)國(guo)(guo)政(zheng)。遺憾的(de)是(shi)(shi)，齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)并沒有聽進管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)話。易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)聽說齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)與(yu)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)的(de)這段對話，便(bian)去挑撥鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)，說管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)阻止齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)任命(ming)鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)。鮑(bao)(bao)叔(shu)牙(ya)笑(xiao)道：“管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)薦(jian)隰(xi)朋，說明他一心為(wei)(wei)社稷宗(zong)廟考慮，不(bu)(bu)存私心偏愛(ai)友人(ren)。現在我做司寇，驅逐佞臣，正合我意。如(ru)果讓我當政(zheng)，哪里(li)還會有你們容身之處？”易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)討了(le)(le)個(ge)(ge)沒趣，深覺(jue)管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)交友之密，知人(ren)之深，于是(shi)(shi)灰溜溜地走了(le)(le)。不(bu)(bu)久管(guan)(guan)仲(zhong)(zhong)病(bing)逝。齊(qi)(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)也(ye)就將易(yi)(yi)(yi)牙(ya)等三(san)(san)人(ren)撤職，永遠(yuan)不(bu)(bu)準(zhun)入朝。

但(dan)過了(le)(le)(le)三(san)年，齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)不(bu)(bu)見(jian)三(san)人(ren)(ren)，感(gan)覺(jue)吃(chi)東(dong)西(xi)都(dou)沒有滋味了(le)(le)(le)，說：「仲(zhong)父（管仲(zhong)）不(bu)(bu)已過孚？」于是又(you)召三(san)人(ren)(ren)回(hui)宮。第二(er)年，齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)得(de)重病 ，易牙(ya)與豎刁(diao)等擁立(li)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子無(wu)虧，迫使太子昭(zhao)(zhao)奔宋，齊(qi)國(guo)五公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子因此發生內(nei)戰。易牙(ya)等堵塞宮門，假傳(chuan)君命，不(bu)(bu)許(xu)任(ren)何人(ren)(ren)進(jin)宮。有二(er)宮女(nv)乘人(ren)(ren)不(bu)(bu)備，越墻入(ru)宮，探(tan)望齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)；桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)正(zheng)餓得(de)發慌，索取食物。宮女(nv)便(bian)把易牙(ya)、豎刁(diao)作(zuo)亂(luan)，堵塞宮門，無(wu)法供應飲食的(de)情況告訴(su)了(le)(le)(le)齊(qi)桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)，桓(huan)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)悔之晚矣，終被餓死。后(hou)來，齊(qi)人(ren)(ren)殺了(le)(le)(le)作(zuo)亂(luan)的(de)公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)子無(wu)虧，立(li)太子昭(zhao)(zhao)為君，即齊(qi)孝公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)。經過這(zhe)場內(nei)亂(luan)，齊(qi)國(guo)的(de)霸(ba)業(ye)開(kai)始(shi)衰落。中原霸(ba)業(ye)逐漸移到(dao)了(le)(le)(le)晉國(guo)。

傳(chuan)(chuan)說易牙干政失敗后避居彭(peng)城，操烹飪業至終，而易牙食療菜(cai)在彭(peng)城(今徐州)廣為(wei)流傳(chuan)(chuan)。

易(yi)牙(ya)雖有“殺(sha)子以適君(jun)”，并參與(yu)發(fa)動政變，被后人所唾(tuo)棄，但易(yi)牙(ya)作為廚藝的化身，已深深融入了中華(hua)民族(zu)源遠流長的飲食文(wen)化中。