蘇(su)州文(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)位于江蘇(su)省蘇(su)州市人(ren)民路。蘇(su)州文(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)府(fu)(fu)學(xue)(xue)是北宋名(ming)臣范(fan)仲(zhong)淹于景祐二年(nian)(1035年(nian))創(chuang)建的(de),迄今已(yi)有(you)(you)980多年(nian)歷(li)(li)史。范(fan)仲(zhong)淹出(chu)任蘇(su)州知州的(de)次年(nian),在南(nan)園遺址上(shang),設學(xue)(xue)立(li)廟(miao)(miao)。廟(miao)(miao)學(xue)(xue)合一(yi)(即文(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)府(fu)(fu)學(xue)(xue)合一(yi))范(fan)仲(zhong)淹聘請當時(shi)著名(ming)教育家胡瑗為(wei)教授(shou),因(yin)為(wei)辦學(xue)(xue)有(you)(you)方,一(yi)時(shi)名(ming)聞天下(xia),成(cheng)為(wei)各地州,縣學(xue)(xue)效仿的(de)楷(kai)模(mo)。此后歷(li)(li)經(jing)拓建,到(dao)明清兩代府(fu)(fu)學(xue)(xue)文(wen)(wen)廟(miao)(miao)的(de)規模(mo)很大(da),占地面(mian)積(ji)(ji)近二百畝。有(you)(you)江南(nan)學(xue)(xue)府(fu)(fu)之冠的(de)贊譽。現有(you)(you)面(mian)積(ji)(ji)僅為(wei)當時(shi)的(de)六分之一(yi),目前(qian)保留下(xia)來(lai)的(de)重(zhong)要建筑有(you)(you)欞星門,戟門,大(da)成(cheng)殿,崇圣(sheng)祠,七(qi)星池,明倫堂,現為(wei)全國重(zhong)點(dian)文(wen)(wen)物保護單位。
蘇州文(wen)廟府學(xue)舊制偉岸,至清代乾隆時東(dong)臨臥龍街(jie)(今市(shi)人民路),西倚東(dong)大街(jie),南枕新市(shi)路,北至書院巷,占(zhan)(zhan)地面積(ji)約(yue)十萬(wan)平(ping)方米(mi),其中府學(xue)占(zhan)(zhan)地面積(ji)約(yue)6萬(wan)平(ping)方米(mi),文(wen)廟占(zhan)(zhan)地面積(ji)約(yue)4萬(wan)平(ping)方米(mi),就占(zhan)(zhan)地面積(ji)而言,在當時是僅次于曲阜孔(kong)廟的全國(guo)第二大孔(kong)廟。
從宋代到清代,蘇州(zhou)文廟府(fu)(fu)學布局日臻完善,形成(cheng)了以(yi)兩(liang)條中軸線為標志的兩(liang)大建筑(zhu)群(qun)體。左(zuo)路是以(yi)大成(cheng)殿為中心的孔廟建筑(zhu)群(qun)。南北(bei)向,五(wu)進院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan):黌門(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)洗馬橋院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);洗馬橋至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)欞(ling)星門(men)(men)(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);欞(ling)星門(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)戟門(men)(men)(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);戟門(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)大成(cheng)殿院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);大成(cheng)殿至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)崇圣祠(ci)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting)。左(zuo)右建筑(zhu)配例對(dui)稱,前后建筑(zhu)井然森布。右路是以(yi)明(ming)倫堂為中心的府(fu)(fu)學建筑(zhu)群(qun),南北(bei)向,五(wu)進院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan):泮(pan)宮至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)禮門(men)(men)(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);禮門(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)儀門(men)(men)(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting),儀門(men)(men)(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)明(ming)倫堂院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);明(ming)倫堂至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)敬(jing)一亭院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);敬(jing)一亭至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)藏經閣院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting)。左(zuo)右前后亭臺樓(lou)閣錯(cuo)落有序(xu),校舍、池塘、假山(shan)、小溪、花木拱衛其間,形成(cheng)了布局嚴謹、殿宇宏麗、氣勢(shi)磅礴(bo)的建筑(zhu)特色。
大(da)成殿(dian)是(shi)(shi)文廟(miao)的(de)主體建筑(zhu)(zhu),面(mian)寬七間,進深六間,約(yue)六百平方米,共(gong)有五十(shi)根楠木柱支(zhi)撐,在(zai)全國亦(yi)實屬罕見,可稱為(wei)天(tian)下奇觀。大(da)成殿(dian)是(shi)(shi)建于(yu)南宋(song)紹興十(shi)一年(1141年),明朝中(zhong)期蘇州知府況鐘重(zhong)(zhong)修,因此大(da)成殿(dian)的(de)梁架結構,斗拱,鴟(chi)尾,都有宋(song)代建筑(zhu)(zhu)的(de)風(feng)格,大(da)成殿(dian)重(zhong)(zhong)檐(yan)多宇,崇臺列階,古樸莊重(zhong)(zhong),氣勢軒(xuan)昂,其殿(dian)堂的(de)建筑(zhu)(zhu)規模僅(jin)次于(yu)玄妙(miao)觀三清(qing)殿(dian),也是(shi)(shi)現在(zai)保存完整(zheng)的(de)古建筑(zhu)(zhu),為(wei)全國重(zhong)(zhong)點文物保護單位。蘇州文廟(miao)的(de)規模名(ming)列東南之冠,清(qing)末科舉廢(fei)除,文廟(miao)府學日(ri)漸(jian)荒廢(fei)。十(shi)年浩劫更是(shi)(shi)破壞殆盡。1981年市政府撥款重(zhong)(zhong)修文廟(miao),同時在(zai)原址上建碑(bei)(bei)刻(ke)博(bo)物館,這(zhe)是(shi)(shi)當時全國首(shou)家碑(bei)(bei)刻(ke)博(bo)物館,文廟(miao)從此獲得新生。
大成(cheng)殿于(yu)1982年(nian)維修,1985年(nian)7月對外開放,為弘(hong)揚(yang)優秀傳統文(wen)(wen)化(hua)充分(fen)發揮大成(cheng)殿在傳播孔子文(wen)(wen)化(hua)遺(yi)產(chan)的(de)功能,利用原有的(de)儒學碑刻優勢(shi),1990年(nian)經過精心籌劃準備完成(cheng)陳(chen)列(lie)孔子文(wen)(wen)化(hua)石刻,陳(chen)列(lie)共148塊(kuai)。
懸于大成(cheng)殿正門(men)重檐(yan)下(xia)的(de)(de)“大成(cheng)殿”門(men)匾。高3米(mi),寬2.2米(mi),雕刻精美,九龍戲珠用白云(yun)烘托(tuo),龍的(de)(de)造型姿態(tai)生動,云(yun)的(de)(de)雕刻線(xian)條精細流暢,“大成(cheng)殿”三個(ge)金(jin)(jin)字為(wei)清(qing)世宗御筆(bi)。藍(lan)底金(jin)(jin)字,光彩奪目(mu),為(wei)我們的(de)(de)孔子文(wen)化石刻陳列平添(tian)了幾分(fen)的(de)(de)氣氛。
欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)建(jian)(jian)于元(yuan)代至(zhi)治二年(1322年)明成化年間(jian)重修(xiu),高(gao)8米,寬25米,8柱(zhu),7間(jian),柱(zhu)枋上鐫(juan)刻龍鳳,云鶴,花卉如意(yi)(yi)圖(tu)案。欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)一般為封建(jian)(jian)帝皇陵寢(qin)建(jian)(jian)筑,傳說是按神話中的(de)(de)天(tian)門(men)(men)設(she)計建(jian)(jian)造(zao)的(de)(de)。因為孔(kong)(kong)(kong)子(zi)被(bei)尊為孔(kong)(kong)(kong)圣,與皇帝并(bing)列,故享受此殊榮。現存的(de)(de)欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)在十(shi)年浩劫中,從原文(wen)廟(miao)故址南端(duan)(新市路(lu)口)原封不動的(de)(de)拆建(jian)(jian)到目前位置。“欲祭(ji)(ji)天(tian)者,先祭(ji)(ji)欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)”。欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)又稱文(wen)曲(qu)星(xing)(xing)、文(wen)鎮星(xing)(xing),過去人(ren)(ren)們喜歡稱讀(du)書人(ren)(ren)為“文(wen)曲(qu)星(xing)(xing)”。孔(kong)(kong)(kong)廟(miao)廟(miao)門(men)(men)以(yi)欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)命名(ming),意(yi)(yi)味著孔(kong)(kong)(kong)子(zi)因天(tian)上的(de)(de)星(xing)(xing)宿(su)而降,祭(ji)(ji)孔(kong)(kong)(kong)也(ye)就是祭(ji)(ji)天(tian),這也(ye)說明孔(kong)(kong)(kong)子(zi)在當時人(ren)(ren)們的(de)(de)心(xin)中的(de)(de)地位和聲望。蘇州文(wen)廟(miao)為宋代首座孔(kong)(kong)(kong)廟(miao),府(fu)學合為一體(ti)的(de)(de)建(jian)(jian)筑,蘇州文(wen)廟(miao)廟(miao)門(men)(men)以(yi)欞(ling)(ling)(ling)星(xing)(xing)命名(ming)還有(you)一層意(yi)(yi)思,即有(you)國家棟梁(liang)之才(cai)輩出之意(yi)(yi)。
戟(ji)門(men)是明代(dai)成(cheng)化年間(jian)(jian)重建,清代(dai)大修。硬(ying)山頂,面寬5間(jian)(jian),戟(ji)門(men)東西各三間(jian)(jian)稱(cheng)為掖(ye)門(men),其中(zhong)東首第一間(jian)(jian)于五(wu)十(shi)年代(dai)拓(tuo)寬人民(min)路時拆除。