蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)(zhou)文(wen)廟(miao)位于(yu)江蘇(su)(su)省蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)(zhou)市人(ren)民路。蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)(zhou)文(wen)廟(miao)府(fu)學(xue)(xue)(xue)是(shi)北(bei)宋(song)名(ming)臣(chen)范仲淹于(yu)景祐二(er)年(1035年)創建的(de),迄今已有(you)980多年歷史。范仲淹出任蘇(su)(su)州(zhou)(zhou)知州(zhou)(zhou)的(de)次年,在南園遺址上(shang),設學(xue)(xue)(xue)立廟(miao)。廟(miao)學(xue)(xue)(xue)合(he)一(即文(wen)廟(miao)府(fu)學(xue)(xue)(xue)合(he)一)范仲淹聘請當(dang)時(shi)(shi)著名(ming)教(jiao)育(yu)家胡瑗為(wei)教(jiao)授(shou),因為(wei)辦學(xue)(xue)(xue)有(you)方,一時(shi)(shi)名(ming)聞天(tian)下,成為(wei)各地(di)州(zhou)(zhou),縣學(xue)(xue)(xue)效仿的(de)楷(kai)模(mo)。此后歷經拓建,到明(ming)清兩代府(fu)學(xue)(xue)(xue)文(wen)廟(miao)的(de)規模(mo)很大,占地(di)面(mian)積近二(er)百畝。有(you)江南學(xue)(xue)(xue)府(fu)之冠(guan)的(de)贊(zan)譽。現(xian)有(you)面(mian)積僅為(wei)當(dang)時(shi)(shi)的(de)六分之一,目前保留下來的(de)重要(yao)建筑有(you)欞星(xing)門(men),戟(ji)門(men),大成殿,崇圣祠,七星(xing)池(chi),明(ming)倫堂,現(xian)為(wei)全國(guo)重點(dian)文(wen)物(wu)保護單(dan)位。
蘇(su)州文(wen)廟(miao)府學舊制(zhi)偉(wei)岸,至清代(dai)乾隆時(shi)東臨臥龍(long)街(今市(shi)(shi)人(ren)民路),西倚(yi)東大(da)街,南枕新市(shi)(shi)路,北(bei)至書院巷(xiang),占地(di)面(mian)積(ji)約十萬平方米(mi)(mi),其中府學占地(di)面(mian)積(ji)約6萬平方米(mi)(mi),文(wen)廟(miao)占地(di)面(mian)積(ji)約4萬平方米(mi)(mi),就占地(di)面(mian)積(ji)而(er)言,在當(dang)時(shi)是僅次于曲阜(fu)孔(kong)廟(miao)的全國第二大(da)孔(kong)廟(miao)。
從(cong)宋代到清代,蘇州文廟(miao)府學布(bu)局日臻(zhen)完善,形成(cheng)了以兩(liang)條中(zhong)軸(zhou)線為標(biao)志的(de)兩(liang)大建(jian)筑群(qun)(qun)體。左路(lu)是(shi)以大成(cheng)殿(dian)為中(zhong)心(xin)(xin)的(de)孔廟(miao)建(jian)筑群(qun)(qun)。南(nan)北向,五進院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan):黌門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)洗(xi)馬(ma)橋(qiao)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);洗(xi)馬(ma)橋(qiao)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)欞星(xing)門(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);欞星(xing)門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)戟(ji)門(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);戟(ji)門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)大成(cheng)殿(dian)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);大成(cheng)殿(dian)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)崇圣祠院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting)。左右(you)建(jian)筑配例對稱,前(qian)后建(jian)筑井然森布(bu)。右(you)路(lu)是(shi)以明倫堂(tang)為中(zhong)心(xin)(xin)的(de)府學建(jian)筑群(qun)(qun),南(nan)北向,五進院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan):泮(pan)宮至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)禮門(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);禮門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)儀門(men)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting),儀門(men)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)明倫堂(tang)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);明倫堂(tang)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)敬一(yi)亭(ting)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting);敬一(yi)亭(ting)至(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)藏經閣院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)庭(ting)(ting)(ting)。左右(you)前(qian)后亭(ting)臺樓閣錯(cuo)落(luo)有(you)序,校舍、池塘、假山、小溪、花木拱衛其間,形成(cheng)了布(bu)局嚴謹(jin)、殿(dian)宇宏麗(li)、氣勢磅礴(bo)的(de)建(jian)筑特(te)色。
大(da)成殿(dian)是(shi)(shi)文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)的(de)主體建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑,面寬七間,進深六間,約(yue)六百平方米,共有(you)五十根(gen)楠木柱支撐,在全國亦實屬罕見,可稱為(wei)天下奇觀(guan)。大(da)成殿(dian)是(shi)(shi)建(jian)(jian)(jian)于(yu)南(nan)宋紹興十一(yi)年(1141年),明(ming)朝中期(qi)蘇(su)州知(zhi)府況鐘重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu),因此(ci)大(da)成殿(dian)的(de)梁架結構,斗(dou)拱,鴟(chi)(chi)尾,都有(you)宋代建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑的(de)風格,大(da)成殿(dian)重(zhong)(zhong)檐多宇(yu),崇臺列(lie)階,古樸莊重(zhong)(zhong),氣勢(shi)軒昂,其殿(dian)堂的(de)建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑規(gui)模僅次于(yu)玄妙觀(guan)三清(qing)殿(dian),也(ye)是(shi)(shi)現在保(bao)(bao)存(cun)完整的(de)古建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑,為(wei)全國重(zhong)(zhong)點文(wen)物保(bao)(bao)護(hu)單位。蘇(su)州文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)的(de)規(gui)模名列(lie)東(dong)南(nan)之冠(guan),清(qing)末(mo)科舉廢除,文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)府學日漸荒廢。十年浩劫更是(shi)(shi)破壞殆(dai)盡。1981年市政府撥款重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)文(wen)廟(miao)(miao),同(tong)時在原址上建(jian)(jian)(jian)碑刻博(bo)物館,這是(shi)(shi)當時全國首家(jia)碑刻博(bo)物館,文(wen)廟(miao)(miao)從此(ci)獲得新生。
大(da)成(cheng)殿(dian)于1982年維修,1985年7月對外開放,為弘揚優(you)秀傳統文化(hua)充(chong)分發揮(hui)大(da)成(cheng)殿(dian)在傳播孔子(zi)文化(hua)遺(yi)產的功能,利用原有的儒學碑刻優(you)勢,1990年經過(guo)精心籌(chou)劃準備完成(cheng)陳(chen)列孔子(zi)文化(hua)石(shi)刻,陳(chen)列共148塊。
懸于大(da)成(cheng)(cheng)殿正(zheng)門重檐下的(de)(de)“大(da)成(cheng)(cheng)殿”門匾。高(gao)3米(mi),寬(kuan)2.2米(mi),雕刻(ke)(ke)精美,九龍(long)戲珠用白云烘(hong)托,龍(long)的(de)(de)造型姿態生動(dong),云的(de)(de)雕刻(ke)(ke)線條精細流暢(chang),“大(da)成(cheng)(cheng)殿”三(san)個金字為清世宗御(yu)筆。藍底金字,光(guang)彩奪目,為我(wo)們的(de)(de)孔子文化(hua)石刻(ke)(ke)陳(chen)列(lie)平(ping)添(tian)了幾分(fen)的(de)(de)氣氛。
欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)建于元代(dai)至治二年(nian)(1322年(nian))明成化年(nian)間重修(xiu),高8米,寬25米,8柱,7間,柱枋上(shang)鐫(juan)刻龍鳳,云鶴,花卉如意(yi)圖案(an)。欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)一般為(wei)(wei)封建帝皇陵寢建筑,傳說是(shi)按神話中的(de)(de)天(tian)門(men)(men)設(she)計建造的(de)(de)。因(yin)為(wei)(wei)孔(kong)(kong)子(zi)被(bei)尊為(wei)(wei)孔(kong)(kong)圣,與皇帝并(bing)列,故享受(shou)此殊榮。現存的(de)(de)欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)門(men)(men)在(zai)十(shi)年(nian)浩劫中,從原(yuan)文廟故址南端(duan)(新(xin)市路口)原(yuan)封不動的(de)(de)拆建到目前位(wei)置(zhi)。“欲祭(ji)天(tian)者(zhe),先祭(ji)欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)”。欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)又稱文曲(qu)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)、文鎮星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing),過去(qu)人們(men)喜歡(huan)稱讀書人為(wei)(wei)“文曲(qu)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)”。孔(kong)(kong)廟廟門(men)(men)以欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)命(ming)名(ming)(ming),意(yi)味著孔(kong)(kong)子(zi)因(yin)天(tian)上(shang)的(de)(de)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)宿(su)而(er)降,祭(ji)孔(kong)(kong)也就(jiu)是(shi)祭(ji)天(tian),這也說明孔(kong)(kong)子(zi)在(zai)當(dang)時人們(men)的(de)(de)心(xin)中的(de)(de)地位(wei)和聲(sheng)望。蘇州文廟為(wei)(wei)宋代(dai)首座孔(kong)(kong)廟,府學合為(wei)(wei)一體的(de)(de)建筑,蘇州文廟廟門(men)(men)以欞(ling)星(xing)(xing)(xing)(xing)命(ming)名(ming)(ming)還有一層意(yi)思,即有國家棟梁之才輩出(chu)之意(yi)。
戟門(men)是明(ming)代(dai)成化(hua)年間(jian)重建,清代(dai)大修。硬山(shan)頂,面寬5間(jian),戟門(men)東(dong)西(xi)各(ge)三間(jian)稱為掖門(men),其中東(dong)首第一間(jian)于(yu)五(wu)十年代(dai)拓寬人民路(lu)時拆(chai)除。