《紅樓夢》誕生于18世紀中葉,它是滿漢文化、南北文化相互碰撞、吸收融合的典范,是中國明末清初時期貴族生活的真實歷史畫卷。就是在這部傲立于世界文學之林、被譽為中國封建社會“百(bai)科(ke)全書”的(de)(de)(de)鴻篇巨制中,曹雪(xue)芹(qin)用(yong)了將近三分之一的(de)(de)(de)篇幅,描述(shu)了眾(zhong)多(duo)(duo)人物豐富多(duo)(duo)彩(cai)的(de)(de)(de)飲食文化活(huo)動(dong):“就其(qi)規模而言(yan)(yan),則(ze)有大宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、盛宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就其(qi)時間(jian)而言(yan)(yan),則(ze)有午宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、晚宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就其(qi)內容(rong)而言(yan)(yan),則(ze)有生(sheng)日(ri)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、真壽(shou)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、省親宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、家宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、接風宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、詩宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、燈(deng)謎宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、合(he)歡宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、梅(mei)花宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、海棠宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、螃(pang)蟹(xie)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就其(qi)節令而言(yan)(yan),則(ze)有中秋宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、端陽宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、元宵宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan);就其(qi)設宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)地(di)方(fang)面言(yan)(yan),則(ze)又有勞園(yuan)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、太(tai)虛幻(huan)境宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大觀園(yuan)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、大廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、小(xiao)廳(ting)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)、怡紅院夜(ye)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)等等,令人聞面生(sheng)津”。通過各(ge)種各(ge)樣(yang)的(de)(de)(de)宴(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)(yan)集(ji),曹雪(xue)芹(qin)不僅為(wei)讀者(zhe)(zhe)提(ti)供了一張未(wei)窮盡的(de)(de)(de)美(mei)食單,更重要的(de)(de)(de)是作者(zhe)(zhe)為(wei)我們創造了一個完整的(de)(de)(de)紅樓飲食文化體系。
曹家(jia)居南(nan)京、揚州(zhou)60多(duo)年,飲(yin)(yin)食(shi)多(duo)為(wei)淮(huai)(huai)(huai)揚風味(wei)(wei)(wei)。曹寅(yin)編纂著述頗豐,有淮(huai)(huai)(huai)揚飲(yin)(yin)食(shi)詩(shi)文問世。寅(yin)母為(wei)康(kang)熙乳(ru)娘,寅(yin)幼(you)年為(wei)康(kang)熙侍讀(du),過從甚密。寅(yin)在揚州(zhou)多(duo)次督辦(ban)御(yu)宴,熟(shu)諳要旨。雪(xue)(xue)芹幼(you)年隨乃(nai)祖在任上(shang),飲(yin)(yin)食(shi)之道,耳濡目染皆(jie)為(wei)淮(huai)(huai)(huai)揚佳味(wei)(wei)(wei),而《紅樓(lou)(lou)夢》創(chuang)作以(yi)“聲色飲(yin)(yin)饌之幻(huan)”來(lai)演示人(ren)生哲理,對淮(huai)(huai)(huai)揚烹飪文化(hua)素材駕輕就熟(shu),信手拈(nian)來(lai)皆(jie)成雅(ya)麗,令人(ren)嘆為(wei)觀(guan)止。當代紅學俊彥馮其(qi)庸、李希凡(fan)先生推論紅樓(lou)(lou)菜(cai)當屬(shu)淮(huai)(huai)(huai)揚風味(wei)(wei)(wei)。揚州(zhou)與《紅樓(lou)(lou)夢》作者曹雪(xue)(xue)芹及其(qi)家(jia)庭(ting)有深(shen)厚的歷史淵源,紅樓(lou)(lou)宴的開發責無(wu)旁貸地落在揚州(zhou)烹飪文化(hua)界(jie)的肩(jian)上(shang)。
丁章(zhang)華(hua)先生運籌與(yu)推動紅樓宴(yan)研制,時(shi)歷二十(shi)春秋,組織精(jing)(jing)干,梳理史料,考察論(lun)證,方家研討,磨(mo)礪提精(jing)(jing),終成大(da)器。紅樓宴(yan)的(de)(de)設計立足于紅樓文(wen)化(hua)整體(ti)的(de)(de)一(yi)部分進行再創造,以發揚光大(da)《紅樓夢》所代(dai)表的(de)(de)文(wen)化(hua)傳(chuan)統、審(shen)美(mei)意識(shi)、文(wen)化(hua)蘊含(han),對餐廳(ting)、音(yin)樂、餐具(ju)、服飾、菜(cai)點、茶飲等項進行綜合設計,使(shi)人恍如(ru)置身于《紅樓夢》中的(de)(de)大(da)觀園(yuan)中。紅樓菜(cai)以其美(mei)味、豐盛、精(jing)(jing)致(zhi)見長,給人以高(gao)層次飲食文(wen)化(hua)藝術的(de)(de)享受,名(ming)揚海內外。
一品大觀:有鳳(feng)來儀 花(hua)(hua)塘情趣 蝴蝶戀(lian)花(hua)(hua)
四干果(guo):栗子青(qing)果(guo)白瓜(gua)子生仁
四調味:酸菜薺醬 蘿卜炸兒 茄鲞
賈(jia)府冷菜:紅袍大蝦(xia) 翡翠(cui)羽衣 胭脂鵝脯酒糟鴨信佛(fo)手羅皮 美(mei)味鴨蛋 素脆素魚 龍穿鳳翅
寧榮大菜:龍袍魚翅 白雪紅梅 老蚌懷珠 生烤鹿肉(rou) 籠蒸螃蟹 西瓜盅酒醉(zui)雞 花籃(lan)鱖魚卷 姥姥鴿蛋(dan) 雙色(se)刀魚 扇面蒿稈 鳳衣串珠
怡紅細點(dian):松仁鵝油(you)卷 螃蟹(xie)小(xiao)餃 如意鎖片 太君(jun)酥 海(hai)棠酥 壽桃
水果(guo):時(shi)果(guo)拼盤 白(bai)雪紅梅 龍袍(pao)魚翅 老蚌懷珠 花藍鱖魚卷
怡紅祝壽雞(ji)髓筍雪底芹芽扒駝掌雞(ji)皮蝦丸湯牛乳(ru)蒸羊羔籠蒸螃蟹三鮮(xian)鹿筋(jin)雞(ji)絲蒿子桿老蚌懷珠(zhu)
西瓜盅酒醉雞鳳衣串(chuan)珠(zhu)