楊凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)是陜(shan)西一種地方小吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)白薄筋光、油汪蒜辣香、湯(tang)(tang)面(mian)(mian)分(fen)盆裝(zhuang)、越嚼口(kou)越香。楊凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)和湯(tang)(tang)是分(fen)開的(de),吃(chi)的(de)時候(hou)從(cong)大面(mian)(mian)盆里夾出寬厚(hou)且(qie)長的(de)面(mian)(mian)條拉(la)到碗里的(de)湯(tang)(tang)中(zhong),然后夾著面(mian)(mian)條一口(kou)一口(kou)地咬著吃(chi)。
陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)點菜(cai)(cai)請(qing)客,多(duo)為涼菜(cai)(cai),少(shao)不(bu)(bu)得(de)鳳翔臘驢肉(rou)(rou),普集燒雞,西(xi)鄉牛肉(rou)(rou)干(gan)(gan),老童家臘牛肉(rou)(rou),三(san)原(yuan)白封(feng)肉(rou)(rou),寶雞葵花雞等,可(ke)以不(bu)(bu)上一(yi)(yi)個熱(re)菜(cai)(cai),冬(dong)天(tian)亦吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)鼻尖冒汗,而(er)我卻若滿腹(fu)凝霜。于是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),熱(re)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)浩(hao)浩(hao)蕩蕩上來(lai)(lai)了(le),之(zhi)所以使用(yong)浩(hao)蕩二(er)字,實因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)(zai)小(xiao)臉盆(pen)里端上來(lai)(lai)的(de)(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)陜(shan)西(xi)這里當(dang)然(ran)就(jiu)(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)裝(zhuang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)而(er)非(fei)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),在(zai)(zai)贛南則真的(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),洗(xi)臉就(jiu)(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢(ni)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)端上來(lai)(lai),熱(re)汽(qi)騰騰,菜(cai)(cai)青面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白,又波清(qing)霧白,各人(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前就(jiu)(jiu)上了(le)一(yi)(yi)只大碗(wan)(wan),碗(wan)(wan)中就(jiu)(jiu)有(you)(you)湯(tang),西(xi)紅(hong)柿、蛋(dan)花、姜、蒜、紅(hong)辣椒、口蘑、玉蘭(lan)片、海參、干(gan)(gan)貝等,微酸,略辣,就(jiu)(jiu)從大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)里夾(jia)出寬厚且長的(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao),泡在(zai)(zai)湯(tang)中,然(ran)后夾(jia)著面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)(yi)口一(yi)(yi)口地咬吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)(zai)口里,滑(hua)潤,富彈(dan)性,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)張力的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種,像咬著三(san)秦大地的(de)(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)若干(gan)(gan)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就(jiu)(jiu)得(de)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯(tang)里青菜(cai)(cai),這樣(yang)就(jiu)(jiu)又清(qing)爽上陣了(le)。 住在(zai)(zai)楊(yang)凌若干(gan)(gan)天(tian),方理解吃(chi)(chi)(chi)蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)妙處(chu),其(qi)實是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個清(qing)爽。獨吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束青菜(cai)(cai),碗(wan)(wan)中可(ke)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)湯(tang)也(ye)可(ke)以叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)稍(shao)子(zi),與(yu)油(you)潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)意境正好相反,那(nei)油(you)潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重油(you)、巨辣,全盤(pan)傲視川人(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)姿態,陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)說:川人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣在(zai)(zai)嘴上,陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣在(zai)(zai)心里。意思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四川人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)辣椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)得(de)響(xiang)(xiang),而(er)陜(shan)西(xi)人(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)響(xiang)(xiang)。人(ren)(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)(you)各的(de)(de)(de)可(ke)愛罷,如川人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔(dan)(dan)擔(dan)(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)籮擔(dan)(dan)之(zhi)想,然(ran)細碗(wan)(wan)一(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細如絲,恰(qia)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)另一(yi)(yi)極(ji)端。然(ran)又有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)發(fa)現,楊(yang)凌人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)包括(kuo)西(xi)安(an)人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆(jie)大盆(pen)使之(zhi),其(qi)狀非(fei)魯智生(sheng)不(bu)(bu)可(ke)比(bi),然(ran)人(ren)(ren)且瘦(shou),楊(yang)凌是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦(shou)城,看上去西(xi)安(an)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦(shou)城,比(bi)之(zhi)肥城北(bei)(bei)京,已經是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)俊秀若江南了(le),也(ye)許是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城小(xiao)一(yi)(yi)些的(de)(de)(de)原(yuan)因。 吃(chi)(chi)(chi)罷楊(yang)凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西(xi)北(bei)(bei)農林大學(xue)古(gu)農史(shi)家樊志民先(xian)生(sheng),獲知:西(xi)亞考古(gu),小(xiao)麥有(you)(you)史(shi)8千(qian)至1萬(wan)年(nian),中國考古(gu),甘肅小(xiao)麥已有(you)(you)五千(qian)年(nian),武功則有(you)(you)3千(qian)8百(bai)年(nian)。多(duo)數(shu)農史(shi)學(xue)家認定小(xiao)麥由(you)西(xi)亞傳入,先(xian)西(xi)北(bei)(bei)而(er)黃淮地區(qu)種植,古(gu)時小(xiao)麥不(bu)(bu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)麥,叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)“來(lai)(lai)”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫的(de)(de)(de)那(nei)個“來(lai)(lai)”,大麥且叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)“麰”。巨獲益,坦坦然(ran)飽腹(fu)而(er)歸。
第一步(bu):面粉加入淡鹽水,用(yong)手揉成光滑(hua)的面條,醒上十來分鐘再(zai)揉一次。
第(di)二步(bu):小白菜、苜蓿(xu)或者(zhe)芹菜等洗凈(jing)切好,西紅柿(shi)切塊,大蔥切丁,雞蛋打散。
第三步:把面趕成一張大面片,切成3-5cm寬的面條待用,蓋上濕布醒十來(lai)分鐘
第四步:把蔥(cong)姜蒜等(deng)在(zai)鍋里爆(bao)炒,加(jia)入西(xi)紅柿(shi)翻炒,待西(xi)紅柿(shi)略化開加(jia)入適量(liang)水(shui),煮(zhu)開加(jia)入鹽、味(wei)精、胡椒(jiao)粉、醬油等(deng)。
第(di)五步:燒水(shui)下(xia)面(mian)條,下(xia)面(mian)條時(shi)用力(li)(li)拉面(mian)條至原來的2倍多,再反復的用力(li)(li)彈面(mian),把面(mian)的韌性釋放,放入鍋中,鍋里(li)面(mian)第(di)一次(ci)開(kai)鍋后(hou),放入小白(bai)菜(cai)、苜(mu)蓿或者芹菜(cai)等,再次(ci)開(kai)鍋可以(yi)盛出(chu);
第六步:把做(zuo)好的湯汁盛(sheng)在碗(wan)中加(jia)入辣椒油和(he)香油,面條一根根撈到碗(wan)里食用!