楊(yang)凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)是陜西(xi)一(yi)種(zhong)地方(fang)小吃。面(mian)(mian)白薄筋(jin)光、油汪蒜(suan)辣香、湯(tang)面(mian)(mian)分盆裝(zhuang)、越嚼(jiao)口(kou)越香。楊(yang)凌蘸水(shui)面(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)和湯(tang)是分開(kai)的(de),吃的(de)時(shi)候從大面(mian)(mian)盆里夾出寬厚(hou)且長的(de)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)拉到碗里的(de)湯(tang)中(zhong),然后夾著(zhu)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一(yi)口(kou)一(yi)口(kou)地咬(yao)著(zhu)吃。
陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)點(dian)菜請(qing)客,多為涼菜,少不(bu)(bu)(bu)得(de)鳳翔臘驢肉,普集燒(shao)雞(ji)(ji),西鄉牛(niu)肉干,老童家(jia)臘牛(niu)肉,三原白(bai)封肉,寶雞(ji)(ji)葵(kui)花(hua)雞(ji)(ji)等,可(ke)(ke)以不(bu)(bu)(bu)上(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)(yi)個熱菜,冬(dong)天亦吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)鼻尖冒汗(han),而(er)我卻(que)若滿腹(fu)凝霜。于是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi),熱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條浩浩蕩蕩上(shang)(shang)來(lai)了(le)(le),之所(suo)以使用(yong)浩蕩二(er)字,實因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)(zai)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)臉盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)端上(shang)(shang)來(lai)的(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)陜(shan)(shan)西這(zhe)里(li)(li)當然就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)裝面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)而(er)非洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)贛南則真的(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen),洗(xi)臉就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)洗(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條端上(shang)(shang)來(lai),熱汽(qi)騰騰,菜青(qing)(qing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白(bai),又(you)(you)波清(qing)霧白(bai),各人(ren)(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前(qian)就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)上(shang)(shang)了(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)只大(da)(da)碗,碗中就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)有湯,西紅柿(shi)、蛋花(hua)、姜、蒜(suan)、紅辣(la)(la)椒、口(kou)蘑(mo)、玉蘭片(pian)、海參、干貝等,微酸(suan),略辣(la)(la),就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)從(cong)大(da)(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)里(li)(li)夾(jia)出寬厚且長的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條,泡在(zai)(zai)湯中,然后夾(jia)著面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條一(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)一(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)地(di)(di)咬吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)(zai)口(kou)里(li)(li),滑(hua)潤,富(fu)彈性,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有張力(li)的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)(yi)種,像咬著三秦大(da)(da)地(di)(di)的(de)(de)月(yue)光。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)若干口(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)得(de)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)口(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯里(li)(li)青(qing)(qing)菜,這(zhe)樣就(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)(jiu)又(you)(you)清(qing)爽(shuang)上(shang)(shang)陣(zhen)了(le)(le)。 住在(zai)(zai)楊凌(ling)(ling)(ling)若干天,方理解吃(chi)(chi)(chi)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)妙處(chu),其實是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個清(qing)爽(shuang)。獨吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束青(qing)(qing)菜,碗中可(ke)(ke)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)湯也(ye)可(ke)(ke)以叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)稍子,與油(you)潑(po)(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)意(yi)境正(zheng)好相反,那油(you)潑(po)(po)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重(zhong)油(you)、巨(ju)辣(la)(la),全盤傲(ao)視川人(ren)(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)姿態,陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)說:川人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)嘴(zui)上(shang)(shang),陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)心里(li)(li)。意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)四川人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)辣(la)(la)椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)得(de)響,而(er)陜(shan)(shan)西人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)響。人(ren)(ren)(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)各有各的(de)(de)可(ke)(ke)愛罷,如川人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰(yue)擔(dan)(dan)擔(dan)(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)(ren)有籮擔(dan)(dan)之想,然細碗一(yi)(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細如絲(si),恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)(shan)人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)另一(yi)(yi)(yi)極端。然又(you)(you)有一(yi)(yi)(yi)發現(xian),楊凌(ling)(ling)(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)包括西安人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大(da)(da)盆(pen)(pen)使之,其狀非魯智生(sheng)不(bu)(bu)(bu)可(ke)(ke)比,然人(ren)(ren)(ren)且瘦(shou),楊凌(ling)(ling)(ling)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座瘦(shou)城,看上(shang)(shang)去西安也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)座瘦(shou)城,比之肥城北京,已(yi)經是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)俊秀(xiu)若江南了(le)(le),也(ye)許是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)城小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)一(yi)(yi)(yi)些(xie)的(de)(de)原因。 吃(chi)(chi)(chi)罷楊凌(ling)(ling)(ling)蘸(zhan)水(shui)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西北農林大(da)(da)學古農史家(jia)樊(fan)志(zhi)民先生(sheng),獲(huo)知:西亞考古,小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)有史8千(qian)至1萬(wan)年,中國考古,甘肅(su)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)已(yi)有五(wu)千(qian)年,武功則有3千(qian)8百年。多數農史學家(jia)認定小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)由西亞傳入,先西北而(er)黃淮地(di)(di)區種植,古時小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai)不(bu)(bu)(bu)叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)(xiao)(xiao)麥(mai),叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)“來(lai)”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫的(de)(de)那個“來(lai)”,大(da)(da)麥(mai)且叫(jiao)(jiao)(jiao)“麰”。巨(ju)獲(huo)益,坦坦然飽腹(fu)而(er)歸。
第一(yi)步:面粉加入淡鹽水,用手(shou)揉成光(guang)滑(hua)的(de)面條,醒上十來分(fen)鐘再揉一(yi)次。
第二步:小白菜、苜(mu)蓿或者芹(qin)菜等洗凈切(qie)好,西紅柿切(qie)塊,大(da)蔥切(qie)丁,雞蛋打散。
第三(san)步:把面趕成(cheng)一(yi)張大面片,切成(cheng)3-5cm寬的面條待用,蓋上(shang)濕布醒(xing)十來分(fen)鐘
第四(si)步:把(ba)蔥姜蒜等在鍋里爆炒,加(jia)入西紅柿翻炒,待西紅柿略化開加(jia)入適量水,煮開加(jia)入鹽(yan)、味精(jing)、胡椒(jiao)粉(fen)、醬油(you)等。
第五步:燒水(shui)下面條(tiao)(tiao),下面條(tiao)(tiao)時用(yong)力(li)拉面條(tiao)(tiao)至原來的(de)2倍多(duo),再反(fan)復的(de)用(yong)力(li)彈面,把面的(de)韌性釋放,放入(ru)鍋(guo)中(zhong),鍋(guo)里面第一(yi)次(ci)開鍋(guo)后,放入(ru)小白菜(cai)、苜蓿或者芹菜(cai)等,再次(ci)開鍋(guo)可以盛出;
第六步(bu):把做好(hao)的湯汁盛在碗(wan)中加入辣(la)椒油(you)和香油(you),面條一(yi)根(gen)根(gen)撈到碗(wan)里食用!