楊凌蘸(zhan)水面(mian)是陜西一種地(di)方小(xiao)吃。面(mian)白薄筋光、油汪蒜(suan)辣香(xiang)、湯面(mian)分盆(pen)裝、越(yue)嚼口越(yue)香(xiang)。楊凌蘸(zhan)水面(mian)的面(mian)和湯是分開的,吃的時候從大面(mian)盆(pen)里夾出寬厚且長(chang)的面(mian)條拉到碗(wan)里的湯中(zhong),然后夾著(zhu)面(mian)條一口一口地(di)咬著(zhu)吃。
陜(shan)人點(dian)菜(cai)(cai)請客,多(duo)為(wei)涼菜(cai)(cai),少不(bu)得鳳翔臘(la)驢肉(rou)(rou),普(pu)集燒雞,西(xi)鄉牛肉(rou)(rou)干,老童家(jia)臘(la)牛肉(rou)(rou),三(san)原白封肉(rou)(rou),寶(bao)雞葵花雞等,可(ke)以(yi)(yi)不(bu)上(shang)(shang)一(yi)(yi)個熱菜(cai)(cai),冬天亦吃(chi)得鼻(bi)尖冒汗,而我卻若(ruo)滿腹(fu)凝霜(shuang)。于是(shi)(shi)(shi),熱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)浩浩蕩(dang)蕩(dang)上(shang)(shang)來(lai)了(le),之(zhi)所以(yi)(yi)使用浩蕩(dang)二字,實因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)盛(sheng)在(zai)(zai)(zai)小(xiao)臉(lian)盆(pen)里(li)(li)(li)端(duan)上(shang)(shang)來(lai)的(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)(zai)陜(shan)西(xi)這(zhe)里(li)(li)(li)當然(ran)就(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)裝(zhuang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)而非洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),在(zai)(zai)(zai)贛南則(ze)真的(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen),洗臉(lian)就(jiu)叫(jiao)(jiao)洗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢(ni)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)端(duan)上(shang)(shang)來(lai),熱汽騰(teng)(teng)騰(teng)(teng),菜(cai)(cai)青(qing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白,又(you)波清霧白,各人面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前就(jiu)上(shang)(shang)了(le)一(yi)(yi)只(zhi)大碗(wan),碗(wan)中(zhong)就(jiu)有(you)湯,西(xi)紅柿(shi)、蛋花、姜(jiang)、蒜、紅辣(la)(la)(la)椒、口蘑、玉(yu)蘭(lan)片、海參(can)、干貝等,微酸,略辣(la)(la)(la),就(jiu)從大面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)里(li)(li)(li)夾(jia)出寬厚且(qie)長的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao),泡在(zai)(zai)(zai)湯中(zhong),然(ran)后(hou)夾(jia)著(zhu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)一(yi)(yi)口一(yi)(yi)口地咬吃(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)(zai)(zai)口里(li)(li)(li),滑(hua)潤(run),富彈性(xing),是(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)張力的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種,像(xiang)咬著(zhu)三(san)秦(qin)大地的(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)若(ruo)干口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就(jiu)得吃(chi)一(yi)(yi)口面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯里(li)(li)(li)青(qing)菜(cai)(cai),這(zhe)樣(yang)就(jiu)又(you)清爽上(shang)(shang)陣了(le)。 住在(zai)(zai)(zai)楊凌(ling)若(ruo)干天,方理(li)解吃(chi)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)妙處,其(qi)實是(shi)(shi)(shi)圖個清爽。獨吃(chi)一(yi)(yi)根面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束青(qing)菜(cai)(cai),碗(wan)中(zhong)可(ke)叫(jiao)(jiao)湯也(ye)可(ke)以(yi)(yi)叫(jiao)(jiao)稍子(zi),與油潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)意(yi)境正好相反,那油潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重(zhong)油、巨辣(la)(la)(la),全(quan)盤傲(ao)視川(chuan)人的(de)(de)姿態,陜(shan)人說:川(chuan)人是(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)嘴上(shang)(shang),陜(shan)人是(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)(la)(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)心里(li)(li)(li)。意(yi)思是(shi)(shi)(shi)四川(chuan)人吃(chi)辣(la)(la)(la)椒,只(zhi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)(jiao)得響,而陜(shan)西(xi)人是(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)得響。人真是(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)各的(de)(de)可(ke)愛(ai)罷,如(ru)川(chuan)人吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔(dan)(dan)擔(dan)(dan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令(ling)人有(you)籮擔(dan)(dan)之(zhi)想,然(ran)細碗(wan)一(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細如(ru)絲(si),恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)陜(shan)人吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)另一(yi)(yi)極端(duan)。然(ran)又(you)有(you)一(yi)(yi)發現,楊凌(ling)人吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)包括(kuo)西(xi)安(an)人吃(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大盆(pen)使之(zhi),其(qi)狀非魯智生不(bu)可(ke)比(bi),然(ran)人且(qie)瘦,楊凌(ling)是(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦城,看上(shang)(shang)去西(xi)安(an)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦城,比(bi)之(zhi)肥城北(bei)京,已(yi)經是(shi)(shi)(shi)俊秀(xiu)若(ruo)江南了(le),也(ye)許是(shi)(shi)(shi)城小(xiao)一(yi)(yi)些的(de)(de)原因。 吃(chi)罷楊凌(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西(xi)北(bei)農(nong)林大學(xue)古(gu)農(nong)史(shi)(shi)家(jia)樊志民先生,獲知:西(xi)亞考(kao)古(gu),小(xiao)麥(mai)有(you)史(shi)(shi)8千至1萬年,中(zhong)國考(kao)古(gu),甘肅小(xiao)麥(mai)已(yi)有(you)五千年,武功(gong)則(ze)有(you)3千8百年。多(duo)數農(nong)史(shi)(shi)學(xue)家(jia)認定小(xiao)麥(mai)由(you)西(xi)亞傳入,先西(xi)北(bei)而黃淮地區種植,古(gu)時小(xiao)麥(mai)不(bu)叫(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)麥(mai),叫(jiao)(jiao)“來(lai)”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫(xie)的(de)(de)那個“來(lai)”,大麥(mai)且(qie)叫(jiao)(jiao)“麰”。巨獲益,坦(tan)坦(tan)然(ran)飽腹(fu)而歸。
第(di)一步:面(mian)粉加入淡鹽(yan)水,用手(shou)揉成光滑的面(mian)條,醒上(shang)十來(lai)分鐘再揉一次。
第二步(bu):小白(bai)菜、苜蓿(xu)或者(zhe)芹菜等(deng)洗凈(jing)切(qie)(qie)(qie)好,西紅柿切(qie)(qie)(qie)塊,大(da)蔥切(qie)(qie)(qie)丁,雞蛋(dan)打散(san)。
第三步:把面趕成一張大面片(pian),切成3-5cm寬的面條待(dai)用,蓋上濕布醒十來(lai)分鐘
第四步:把(ba)蔥姜蒜等在鍋里爆炒(chao),加(jia)(jia)(jia)入西紅柿(shi)翻炒(chao),待西紅柿(shi)略(lve)化開加(jia)(jia)(jia)入適(shi)量水(shui),煮開加(jia)(jia)(jia)入鹽(yan)、味精、胡椒粉、醬油等。
第(di)五步:燒水(shui)下面條,下面條時(shi)用力(li)拉面條至原來的2倍多,再(zai)反(fan)復的用力(li)彈面,把面的韌性釋放,放入鍋(guo)中,鍋(guo)里面第(di)一次開鍋(guo)后,放入小(xiao)白菜、苜蓿或者芹菜等,再(zai)次開鍋(guo)可以(yi)盛出;
第(di)六步(bu):把做好的湯汁盛在(zai)碗(wan)中加入辣椒油和香(xiang)油,面條一根根撈到碗(wan)里(li)食用!