楊凌蘸水面(mian)(mian)是陜西一種地方小吃。面(mian)(mian)白薄(bo)筋光、油(you)汪(wang)蒜辣香(xiang)、湯面(mian)(mian)分盆(pen)裝(zhuang)、越嚼口越香(xiang)。楊凌蘸水面(mian)(mian)的(de)面(mian)(mian)和湯是分開(kai)的(de),吃的(de)時候從大面(mian)(mian)盆(pen)里夾出寬厚(hou)且長的(de)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)拉到碗(wan)里的(de)湯中,然(ran)后夾著面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)一口一口地咬著吃。
陜人(ren)(ren)(ren)點菜(cai)請客,多為涼菜(cai),少(shao)不(bu)得(de)(de)鳳翔臘驢肉,普(pu)集燒(shao)雞(ji),西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)鄉(xiang)牛肉干(gan),老童家(jia)臘牛肉,三原白(bai)封肉,寶雞(ji)葵花雞(ji)等,可(ke)以(yi)(yi)不(bu)上(shang)一(yi)(yi)個熱菜(cai),冬天亦吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)(de)鼻尖冒汗,而(er)我(wo)卻若滿(man)腹凝霜(shuang)。于是(shi)(shi)(shi),熱面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條浩(hao)浩(hao)蕩(dang)蕩(dang)上(shang)來(lai)(lai)了(le)(le),之所(suo)以(yi)(yi)使用浩(hao)蕩(dang)二(er)字,實(shi)因面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條是(shi)(shi)(shi)盛在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)小臉(lian)(lian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen)里(li)端(duan)上(shang)來(lai)(lai)的(de)(de)(de)(de),在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)陜西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)這(zhe)里(li)當然就叫面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen),是(shi)(shi)(shi)裝(zhuang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen)而(er)非洗(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen),在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)贛南則真的(de)(de)(de)(de)是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen),洗(xi)(xi)臉(lian)(lian)就叫洗(xi)(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)呢(ni)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條端(duan)上(shang)來(lai)(lai),熱汽騰(teng)騰(teng),菜(cai)青(qing)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)白(bai),又(you)波清(qing)霧白(bai),各人(ren)(ren)(ren)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)前就上(shang)了(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)只大(da)(da)碗(wan),碗(wan)中就有(you)(you)湯(tang)(tang),西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)紅柿(shi)、蛋(dan)花、姜(jiang)、蒜、紅辣(la)椒、口(kou)蘑、玉蘭片、海參、干(gan)貝(bei)等,微酸,略辣(la),就從(cong)大(da)(da)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)盆(pen)(pen)(pen)里(li)夾(jia)出寬厚且(qie)(qie)長的(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條,泡在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)湯(tang)(tang)中,然后夾(jia)著面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條一(yi)(yi)口(kou)一(yi)(yi)口(kou)地(di)咬吃(chi)(chi)(chi)。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)強筋面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),咬在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)口(kou)里(li),滑潤,富彈(dan)性,是(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)張力的(de)(de)(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)種,像咬著三秦大(da)(da)地(di)的(de)(de)(de)(de)月光。吃(chi)(chi)(chi)若干(gan)口(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),就得(de)(de)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)口(kou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)湯(tang)(tang)里(li)青(qing)菜(cai),這(zhe)樣就又(you)清(qing)爽上(shang)陣(zhen)了(le)(le)。 住(zhu)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)楊(yang)凌(ling)若干(gan)天,方(fang)理(li)解吃(chi)(chi)(chi)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)妙(miao)處,其(qi)實(shi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)圖(tu)個清(qing)爽。獨吃(chi)(chi)(chi)一(yi)(yi)根(gen)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),幾束青(qing)菜(cai),碗(wan)中可(ke)叫湯(tang)(tang)也(ye)可(ke)以(yi)(yi)叫稍子,與(yu)油(you)(you)潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)意境正好相反,那油(you)(you)潑面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)糊面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)、重(zhong)油(you)(you)、巨辣(la),全盤傲(ao)視川人(ren)(ren)(ren)的(de)(de)(de)(de)姿(zi)態,陜人(ren)(ren)(ren)說:川人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)嘴(zui)上(shang),陜人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)辣(la)在(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)(zai)心里(li)。意思是(shi)(shi)(shi)四川人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)辣(la)椒,只是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫得(de)(de)響,而(er)陜西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)是(shi)(shi)(shi)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)得(de)(de)響。人(ren)(ren)(ren)真是(shi)(shi)(shi)各有(you)(you)各的(de)(de)(de)(de)可(ke)愛罷,如(ru)川人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),曰擔擔面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),令人(ren)(ren)(ren)有(you)(you)籮擔之想,然細(xi)碗(wan)一(yi)(yi)握,面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)細(xi)如(ru)絲(si),恰是(shi)(shi)(shi)陜人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)另(ling)一(yi)(yi)極端(duan)。然又(you)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)發現,楊(yang)凌(ling)人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),也(ye)包(bao)括西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)人(ren)(ren)(ren)吃(chi)(chi)(chi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),皆大(da)(da)盆(pen)(pen)(pen)使之,其(qi)狀(zhuang)非魯智生不(bu)可(ke)比(bi),然人(ren)(ren)(ren)且(qie)(qie)瘦(shou),楊(yang)凌(ling)是(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦(shou)城,看上(shang)去西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)安(an)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)座(zuo)瘦(shou)城,比(bi)之肥城北(bei)京,已經(jing)是(shi)(shi)(shi)俊秀若江南了(le)(le),也(ye)許是(shi)(shi)(shi)城小一(yi)(yi)些的(de)(de)(de)(de)原因。 吃(chi)(chi)(chi)罷楊(yang)凌(ling)蘸水面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),訪西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)農(nong)林(lin)大(da)(da)學古(gu)農(nong)史家(jia)樊志民先(xian)生,獲知:西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)亞考古(gu),小麥有(you)(you)史8千(qian)至1萬(wan)年,中國考古(gu),甘肅小麥已有(you)(you)五千(qian)年,武(wu)功(gong)則有(you)(you)3千(qian)8百(bai)年。多數農(nong)史學家(jia)認定小麥由西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)亞傳入,先(xian)西(xi)(xi)(xi)(xi)北(bei)而(er)黃淮地(di)區種植,古(gu)時小麥不(bu)叫小麥,叫“來(lai)(lai)”,是(shi)(shi)(shi)繁寫的(de)(de)(de)(de)那個“來(lai)(lai)”,大(da)(da)麥且(qie)(qie)叫“麰”。巨獲益(yi),坦坦然飽腹而(er)歸。
第一(yi)步:面粉加入淡鹽水,用手揉成光滑的面條,醒上十來分鐘再揉一(yi)次。
第二步(bu):小白(bai)菜、苜蓿或者(zhe)芹(qin)菜等洗凈切好(hao),西(xi)紅柿(shi)切塊,大蔥切丁,雞蛋打散。
第三步(bu):把面趕(gan)成一張大(da)面片,切成3-5cm寬的面條待用,蓋上濕布(bu)醒十來分鐘
第四步(bu):把蔥姜蒜等在(zai)鍋里爆炒,加入(ru)(ru)(ru)西紅柿翻炒,待西紅柿略化(hua)開(kai)加入(ru)(ru)(ru)適(shi)量水,煮(zhu)開(kai)加入(ru)(ru)(ru)鹽、味精、胡(hu)椒粉、醬油(you)等。
第五步:燒(shao)水下面(mian)(mian)條,下面(mian)(mian)條時用力拉面(mian)(mian)條至原(yuan)來的2倍多,再反(fan)復的用力彈面(mian)(mian),把面(mian)(mian)的韌(ren)性(xing)釋放(fang),放(fang)入鍋中,鍋里(li)面(mian)(mian)第一次開鍋后,放(fang)入小(xiao)白菜、苜蓿或(huo)者芹菜等(deng),再次開鍋可以盛出;
第(di)六(liu)步:把(ba)做好(hao)的湯汁盛在碗(wan)中加入(ru)辣椒油(you)和香油(you),面條一(yi)根(gen)根(gen)撈(lao)到(dao)碗(wan)里食用!