凈土(tu)寺(si),又(you)稱十(shi)方廟,現稱天竺寺(si),位(wei)于汾陽(yang)市東龍觀(guan)村東約一(yi)里(li)處,二進(jin)院(yuan)落布局(ju),是一(yi)處以拱(gong)券結構為(wei)主的(de)古老佛(fo)教建筑群(qun),始(shi)建年代不詳,為(wei)呂梁市重點文(wen)物保護單位(wei)。進(jin)入寺(si)廟,香煙裊裊、翠(cui)柏蒼蒼,佛(fo)音繞耳(er)、梵語(yu)清心(xin)(xin),虔誠之心(xin)(xin)油然(ran)而生。本期小微就帶(dai)您走(zou)進(jin)汾陽(yang)市東龍觀(guan)村凈土(tu)寺(si),一(yi)起感(gan)受彌漫其中的(de)優雅佛(fo)韻。
凈土寺(si),位于(yu)汾陽(yang)市東龍觀村東約一里處。“凈土”為(wei)佛教所認為(wei)的(de)(de)無五(wu)濁垢染清(qing)(qing)凈世界,【五(wu)濁即是劫(jie)濁、見(jian)濁、煩惱(nao)濁、眾生濁、命(ming)濁。五(wu)濁,意指減(jian)劫(jie)(即人類壽命(ming)次第(di)減(jian)短之(zhi)時代(dai))中所起(qi)的(de)(de)五(wu)種滓濁】“十(shi)方(fang)”為(wei)佛教對各個方(fang)位的(de)(de)泛稱,改名天竺寺(si),據(ju)說是為(wei)了不讓游方(fang)僧人看到寺(si)名后駐足(zu)不前(qian)。寺(si)內建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)全部(bu)都(dou)是窯(yao)洞,為(wei)典型的(de)(de)黃土塬地區建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)風格,各處建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)基(ji)本完(wan)好(hao),除個別門面稍有(you)(you)改動外大都(dou)依舊(jiu)。凈土寺(si)的(de)(de)始建(jian)年代(dai)不詳(xiang),有(you)(you)文(wen)字可考(kao)是在(zai)清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)乾隆年間。在(zai)寺(si)廟僅(jin)存(cun)的(de)(de)兩通石碑上僅(jin)有(you)(you)維(wei)修(xiu)記載(zai)而未見(jian)始建(jian)年代(dai),最早的(de)(de)維(wei)修(xiu)記錄是在(zai)唐代(dai),由此可知此寺(si)廟年代(dai)之(zhi)久遠。據(ju)寺(si)內現存(cun)石碑記載(zai):清(qing)(qing)乾隆十(shi)八年(1752)增(zeng)建(jian),20世紀九十(shi)年代(dai)維(wei)修(xiu),現存(cun)屬明清(qing)(qing)遺構(gou)。2006年,凈土寺(si)被確定(ding)為(wei)呂梁(liang)市重點文(wen)物保護(hu)單位。
凈土(tu)(tu)寺(si)的整座院(yuan)(yuan)落坐北(bei)朝南,二進院(yuan)(yuan)落布局,寺(si)內建(jian)筑以藏紅(hong)色為(wei)基調(diao)色彩。寺(si)院(yuan)(yuan)南北(bei)長98.65米(mi),東西寬68.5米(mi),占地面積為(wei)6758平方(fang)米(mi)。中(zhong)軸線(xian)上由南至(zhi)北(bei)依次存(cun)山(shan)門(men)(90年代(dai)改建(jian))、過(guo)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(窯洞3孔)和(he)正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),兩側存(cun)二進院(yuan)(yuan)東西配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)各(ge)七(qi)間(jian)(窯洞)。寺(si)內存(cun)清乾(qian)隆年間(jian)“凈土(tu)(tu)寺(si)藏經記”和(he)“本寺(si)新造普眼天尊兼(jian)造殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇碑記”各(ge)一(yi)通。
凈土寺(si)寺(si)門朝南(nan)(nan),位于寺(si)廟中軸線最南(nan)(nan)端,磚結構(gou),為圓拱形,寺(si)門兩側有(you)(you)“寶剎通四(si)海 金(jin)光正(zheng)十(shi)方(fang)”楹聯一(yi)(yi)副,在(zai)陽(yang)光下金(jin)光閃(shan)(shan)閃(shan)(shan),佛法普(pu)度眾生(sheng)、福澤四(si)海的博大(da)之(zhi)感(gan)躍然紙上(shang)。楹聯下有(you)(you)兩座(zuo)石(shi)獅(shi)半蹲(dun)于石(shi)墩(dun)之(zhi)上(shang),它(ta)們身(shen)體度著一(yi)(yi)層金(jin)色,脖子上(shang)分別(bie)系有(you)(you)紅巾(jin),毛發(fa)被一(yi)(yi)個個螺旋狀(zhuang)的發(fa)卷替(ti)代,呈(cheng)藏(zang)綠色,配(pei)之(zhi)以憨態可(ke)掬的神(shen)情(qing),惟(wei)妙惟(wei)肖,十(shi)分可(ke)愛。門上(shang)正(zheng)中置咸(xian)豐十(shi)年(1870)匾額一(yi)(yi)塊(kuai),上(shang)鐫“天竺(zhu)遺(yi)風”四(si)字,字體瀟(xiao)灑俊(jun)逸。山門前(qian)有(you)(you)大(da)照壁一(yi)(yi)座(zuo),藍(lan)色的墻面(mian)上(shang)有(you)(you)“南(nan)(nan)無(wu)阿(a)彌(mi)陀(tuo)佛”、“天竺(zhu)寺(si)”幾個繁體字,金(jin)色的字體在(zai)陽(yang)光下熠(yi)熠(yi)生(sheng)輝(hui)。
進了寺門,首先映入(ru)眼簾的是一條石磚(zhuan)鋪成的道路,磚(zhuan)石錯落有致,路面干凈整潔。道路兩側(ce)翠柏蒼(cang)蒼(cang),花草留香,走在(zai)這(zhe)條菩(pu)提大道上,看四周(zhou)綠(lv)意盎(ang)然,聽鳥雀(que)歡快(kuai)鳴叫,心境(jing)便會(hui)瞬間平和(he),一種親切(qie)而溫(wen)和(he)的感(gan)覺也會(hui)慢慢彌(mi)散(san)出來。
過殿(dian)(dian)位于中(zhong)軸線中(zhong)部,拱券結構(gou),南(nan)向帶插(cha)廊(lang),共三(san)(san)間,已(yi)改建(jian)。殿(dian)(dian)內(nei)供奉天(tian)王(wang)等(deng)六位佛(fo)。殿(dian)(dian)兩(liang)(liang)側有(you)門(men),中(zhong)間窯(yao)洞(dong)以前(qian)供奉彌(mi)勒佛(fo),現已(yi)前(qian)后(hou)打(da)通成了進出前(qian)后(hou)院(yuan)的過道(dao)門(men)洞(dong)。據(ju)說,窯(yao)頂原有(you)小樓閣一座(zuo),現已(yi)不復存(cun)在(zai)。三(san)(san)眼窯(yao)洞(dong)前(qian)有(you)廊(lang)檐(yan),立(li)(li)四根(gen)檐(yan)柱,東西兩(liang)(liang)側各(ge)立(li)(li)石碑一塊(kuai),一為“凈土寺藏經(jing)記(ji)(ji)”,雕(diao)(diao)龍碑額(e),時(shi)(shi)代為乾隆(long)十(shi)四年(nian)(1749),通高(gao)約3.7米(mi),額(e)篆書(shu)“敕賜龍藏”四字,記(ji)(ji)載(zai)本寺屬臨濟宗(zong),描述(shu)當(dang)地人杰地靈(ling)及建(jian)藏經(jing)樓經(jing)過;一為“本寺新(xin)造(zao)普(pu)眼天(tian)尊(zun)兼造(zao)殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)碑記(ji)(ji)”,雕(diao)(diao)龍碑額(e),時(shi)(shi)代為乾隆(long)十(shi)八年(nian)(1753),通高(gao)3.23米(mi),詳細的記(ji)(ji)載(zai)了寺內(nei)修建(jian)普(pu)眼天(tian)尊(zun)殿(dian)(dian)經(jing)過,并記(ji)(ji)錄了當(dang)時(shi)(shi)募化僧人法名。窯(yao)門(men)兩(liang)(liang)側有(you)民(min)國十(shi)一年(nian)(1922年(nian))夏所(suo)嵌的石聯(lian)一副:“金繩開覺路(lu),寶筏渡迷津”,門(men)上也有(you)匾(bian)額(e),上書(shu)“人天(tian)覺路(lu)”,紅底(di)黃字,筆法遒(qiu)勁,引(yin)人注目。窯(yao)門(men)前(qian)檐(yan)柱的楹聯(lian)上寫有(you)“佛(fo)日高(gao)懸光明世界法輪大(da)轉(zhuan)普(pu)利(li)人天(tian)”,醒(xing)目而震撼(han)人心。窯(yao)門(men)背面的對聯(lian)“法身(shen)無(wu)來無(wu)去(qu)隨機緣(yuan)轉(zhuan)法輪德(de)像(xiang)非空非有(you)應(ying)恒沙住寂光”與窯(yao)門(men)上方匾(bian)額(e)所(suo)書(shu)的“成佛(fo)之(zhi)道(dao)”相對應(ying),仿佛(fo)在(zai)給人以指引(yin),山重水復疑無(wu)路(lu)的求(qiu)佛(fo)之(zhi)心便(bian)會剎(cha)那間柳暗花明、豁然(ran)開朗。
過(guo)(guo)殿(dian)(dian)向北的(de)(de)(de)中軸線(xian)兩(liang)(liang)側為配殿(dian)(dian),東(dong)西各(ge)七間(jian)(jian)(jian)(窯洞(dong)式),兩(liang)(liang)排窯洞(dong)南(nan)端與(yu)過(guo)(guo)殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)三眼窯洞(dong)連(lian)接(jie),北端原來(lai)也有小門與(yu)正殿(dian)(dian)通連(lian),四周青磚券(quan)拱的(de)(de)(de)窯洞(dong)相(xiang)互(hu)通聯(lian),組成該寺后(hou)院。西配殿(dian)(dian)上(shang)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)供(gong)(gong)僧(seng)人(ren)、居士居住,現在有僧(seng)人(ren)約(yue)10余位。下三間(jian)(jian)(jian)供(gong)(gong)奉地藏菩(pu)薩,最(zui)南(nan)一間(jian)(jian)(jian)是廚房。東(dong)配殿(dian)(dian)上(shang)三間(jian)(jian)(jian)供(gong)(gong)寺廟(miao)負責人(ren)接(jie)待香(xiang)(xiang)客,最(zui)南(nan)兩(liang)(liang)間(jian)(jian)(jian)供(gong)(gong)香(xiang)(xiang)客用(yong)齋(zhai)。后(hou)院上(shang)方放置有香(xiang)(xiang)爐和(he)一座小型寶(bao)塔(ta),爐內插滿(man)香(xiang)(xiang)客的(de)(de)(de)供(gong)(gong)香(xiang)(xiang),青煙繚(liao)繞,可見(jian)香(xiang)(xiang)客之多。后(hou)院下方供(gong)(gong)奉著一座金身(shen)大肚彌勒佛像,與(yu)過(guo)(guo)殿(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)(de)門洞(dong)迎面(mian)相(xiang)對,他右手握布帶,左手持念珠,笑容滿(man)面(mian),和(he)藹可親,大肚能容容天下難容之事,笑口常開笑世間(jian)(jian)(jian)可笑之人(ren),形(xing)象(xiang)很是生動(dong)有趣。當(dang)人(ren)們進入佛寺中看(kan)到這一樂呵(he)呵(he)的(de)(de)(de)形(xing)象(xiang),對佛門的(de)(de)(de)親切(qie)之感也會(hui)油然而生。
凈(jing)土寺最著名(ming)的(de)(de)要屬(shu)正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)——大(da)雄寶(bao)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。大(da)雄寶(bao)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)位于(yu)中(zhong)軸線最北端(duan),為(wei)坐北朝南(nan)五(wu)(wu)眼窯(yao)(yao)洞。正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內部(bu)為(wei)兩排十(shi)字(zi)通頭枕頭窯(yao)(yao),左右窯(yao)(yao)窯(yao)(yao)相套(tao),無(wu)梁無(wu)柱(zhu),結(jie)(jie)構(gou)獨特,設(she)計精密(mi),俗稱(cheng)“四十(shi)八間(jian)無(wu)梁窯(yao)(yao)”,在(zai)佛教建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)上也(ye)稱(cheng)為(wei)無(wu)梁(量)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。其入(ru)深約十(shi)五(wu)(wu)米(mi)(mi),建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)面(mian)積大(da)致在(zai)二(er)百平方(fang)(fang)(fang)米(mi)(mi)左右,是汾陽(yang)占地面(mian)積最大(da)的(de)(de)一(yi)座古代(dai)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)單(dan)體。窯(yao)(yao)洞前面(mian)設(she)單(dan)坡(po)硬山頂木構(gou)插廊七間(jian),明、次間(jian)皆安四扇六(liu)抹(mo)公式(shi)扇門(新配),兩稍間(jian)為(wei)磚砌窗戶,前檐(yan)有(you)六(liu)根檐(yan)柱(zhu),每根直徑7-8寸,無(wu)斗拱,檐(yan)廊簡單(dan)。前居窯(yao)(yao)頂女兒墻先用扁瓦(wa)壘成,狀若魚(yu)鱗。正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)兩側(ce)(ce)(ce)為(wei)磚結(jie)(jie)構(gou)樓梯,二(er)層(ceng)原有(you)磚木結(jie)(jie)構(gou)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)五(wu)(wu)間(jian),有(you)廊柱(zhu),兩側(ce)(ce)(ce)有(you)耳(er)房。現(xian)在(zai),上層(ceng)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)已毀,僅余柱(zhu)礎。正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)整體力(li)學(xue)結(jie)(jie)構(gou)合理,布(bu)局(ju)寬敞(chang)疏朗,具有(you)較高的(de)(de)科(ke)學(xue)藝術價值,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內尚有(you)當年(nian)(nian)僧人(ren)進行法(fa)事活動(dong)的(de)(de)痕(hen)跡。據說,昔時(shi)(shi)(shi)僧人(ren)們的(de)(de)法(fa)式(shi)活動(dong)是動(dong)功(gong)(gong)(gong)與靜功(gong)(gong)(gong)結(jie)(jie)合,每天先靜功(gong)(gong)(gong)修(xiu)行8小時(shi)(shi)(shi),然后(hou)繞(rao)行釋迦(jia)摩尼佛像(xiang)圓周(zhou)一(yi)小時(shi)(shi)(shi),稱(cheng)之(zhi)為(wei)動(dong)功(gong)(gong)(gong),之(zhi)后(hou)再靜功(gong)(gong)(gong)修(xiu)行8小時(shi)(shi)(shi)。在(zai)正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)地面(mian)上,我們還(huan)能看到僧人(ren)們當年(nian)(nian)繞(rao)圈時(shi)(shi)(shi)磨下的(de)(de)痕(hen)跡,深處有(you)一(yi)寸多深。寺里的(de)(de)師傅說,他到過許(xu)多寺廟(miao),但磨痕(hen)如(ru)此之(zhi)深的(de)(de)寺廟(miao)幾乎沒(mei)有(you)見過。這也(ye)從另一(yi)個方(fang)(fang)(fang)面(mian)說明凈(jing)土寺確(que)實歷(li)史悠久。正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)兩側(ce)(ce)(ce)通頭放著禪床,是僧人(ren)誦經做功(gong)(gong)(gong)的(de)(de)地方(fang)(fang)(fang)。正(zheng)(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)共(gong)供有(you)佛像(xiang)18尊(zun),正(zheng)(zheng)中(zhong)供奉(feng)釋迦(jia)牟尼佛,其后(hou)供奉(feng)東(dong)、西、南(nan)、北、中(zhong)一(yi)共(gong)五(wu)(wu)佛,殿(dian)(dian)(dian)內左右兩側(ce)(ce)(ce)各供奉(feng)六(liu)位菩薩,滿(man)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)香(xiang)煙繚繞(rao),地上滿(man)是跪墊,香(xiang)客(ke)絡(luo)繹不絕(jue)。