縫(feng)紉(ren)機線(xian)跡的種類
縫紉機線跡的分(fen)類形式很多,1979年,國際標準化(hua)組織對線跡的種(zhong)類,編號進行了規定,將標準線跡分(fen)為6大類:
100類-鏈式(shi)線(xian)跡
200類-仿手工線跡(ji)
300類(lei)-瑣式線跡
400類-多線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)
500類(lei)-包縫(feng)線跡
600類(lei)-覆蓋線跡
100類中最常用的是(shi)101和(he)103兩種。101和(he)103都是(shi)是(shi)單線鏈式線跡,103常用于暗線挑縫。
300中(zhong)最(zui)常用(yong)的(de)(de)是301,304,308和320。其中(zhong)301稱單針(zhen)平縫線跡(ji)(ji),又是最(zui)最(zui)常用(yong)的(de)(de)線跡(ji)(ji),304兩(liang)點人(ren)(ren)字線跡(ji)(ji),308三點人(ren)(ren)字線跡(ji)(ji),比301更(geng)有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類(lei)中最常用(yong)的有504,505,512,514。504和(he)505都(dou)是三線(xian)包縫線(xian)跡。504廣泛用(yong)于(yu)制衣業的鎖邊工序,505主要針對中厚料。512和(he)514是四線(xian)包縫又(you)稱安全線(xian)跡。都(dou)由兩(liang)條(tiao)(tiao)針線(xian)兩(liang)條(tiao)(tiao)鉤線(xian)組成,只是鉤線(xian)與針線(xian)的交圈方式上兩(liang)陣(zhen)稍有不同。
600類中最(zui)常用的是(shi)(shi)602,605,607三種。602又稱(cheng)二針網(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji),主(zhu)(zhu)要用于(yu)針織(zhi)捏儀,運動服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)等。605又稱(cheng)三針網(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji)。主(zhu)(zhu)要用語衣服上(shang)縫(feng)(feng)橡津,切(qie)滾條(tiao)和拼接縫(feng)(feng)的縫(feng)(feng)合等工序(xu)。607是(shi)(shi)四針網(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji),有四條(tiao)針線(xian)知(zhi)識比605加了一(yi)條(tiao)陣(zhen)線(xian)其他類似。綜(zong)上(shang)所述,600類主(zhu)(zhu)要用于(yu)針織(zhi)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的滾邊(bian)(bian),滾領,折(zhe)邊(bian)(bian),拼接縫(feng)(feng)和裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾花邊(bian)(bian)等工序(xu),其實也(ye)就是(shi)(shi)繃縫(feng)(feng)啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結(jie),倒回針,加固縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆(fu)蓋線(xian)跡,繃縫線(xian)跡
interlock stitch聯鎖(suo)線跡(ji),多線鏈(lian)式線跡(ji)
single thread chain stitch單線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡(ji),單線(xian)鏈狀線(xian),單線(xian)鎖(suo)鏈底針步,(101線(xian)跡(ji)),(用于假縫,如袋口)
103線跡-blind stitch暗(an)縫,暗(an)繰針(zhen)縫,挑腳,
301線跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式(shi)線跡(ji),平縫(feng)線跡(ji),普通線跡(ji),平車(che)針步,(最常見(jian)的線跡(ji))
304線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),鋸(ju)齒形(xing)鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),Z形(xing)鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),之(zhi)字(zi)形(xing)平車針步(bu),人字(zi)形(xing)平車針步(bu),(底面線(xian)(xian)都是鎖(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji))
401線跡(ji)-single needle chain stitch單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鏈式線跡(ji),單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鏈狀針(zhen)(zhen)步(bu)(bu),單(dan)針(zhen)(zhen)鎖鏈底針(zhen)(zhen)步(bu)(bu)
404線(xian)(xian)跡-zigzag chain stitch曲折(zhe)鏈(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡,鋸(ju)齒形鏈(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡,Z形鏈(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡,人字鎖鏈(lian)底針步,(面線(xian)(xian)是(shi)鎖式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡,底線(xian)(xian)是(shi)鏈(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡)
406線跡-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)底(di)(di)部覆(fu)蓋線跡,雙(shuang)針(zhen)網底(di)(di)針(zhen)步,(用于腰帶袢,針(zhen)織服裝的袖口、下擺等)
407線跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三(san)針底部繃縫線跡,三(san)針網底針步(bu)
408線(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針鏈式表面(mian)覆蓋線(xian)跡(ji)(ji),雙針網面(mian)鎖鏈底針步
503線(xian)跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)線(xian)拷邊(bian),雙(shuang)線(xian)包邊(bian),雙(shuang)線(xian)钑骨
504線(xian)跡(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線(xian)跡(ji),拷(kao)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)線(xian)跡(ji),鎖邊(bian)(bian)(bian)線(xian)跡(ji),三(san)線(xian)拷(kao)邊(bian)(bian)(bian),三(san)線(xian)包邊(bian)(bian)(bian),三(san)線(xian)钑骨(gu),(最常見的拷(kao)邊(bian)(bian)(bian)線(xian)跡(ji))
512線(xian)跡-mock safety stitch假線(xian)跡,模擬線(xian)跡,(用于彈性面料(liao)接縫)
514線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)四(si)線(xian)拷邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線(xian)包邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線(xian)钑骨,(用(yong)于彈性面料接縫(feng))
515線跡(ji)(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四(si)線安全線跡(ji),四(si)線安全針步
516線跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五(wu)線拷邊,五(wu)線鎖邊,安全(quan)線跡,五(wu)線包邊安全(quan)線跡,五(wu)線钑(sa)骨
602線跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙針四線繃縫線跡(ji)
605線跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五(wu)線繃縫線跡
606線跡(ji)-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線平式(shi)繃(beng)縫線跡(ji)
607線(xian)跡(ji)-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六線(xian)平(ping)式(shi)繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji),pearl stitch珠式(shi)線(xian)跡(ji),
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫(feng)線(xian)跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏(shu)縫線(xian)跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫(feng)線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線(xian)跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線(xian)跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線(xian)跡(ji)----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包(bao)縫(feng)線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈(lian)式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠(zhu)式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形(xing)線跡(ji)----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線(xian)跡(ji)----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線(xian)跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸(ju)齒形(xing)狀線(xian)跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡(ji)----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂(feng)窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十(shi)字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形(xing)線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲(qu)折形線跡(ji)---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線(xian)跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃(hua)線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特(te)殊線(xian)跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式(shi)線跡---SEAM STITCH
加(jia)固線(xian)跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡(ji)---KNOTTING STITCH
扎(zha)縛線(xian)跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線(xian)跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡(ji)---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡(ji)---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針(zhen)法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針(zhen)法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法(fa)----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針(zhen)法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法(fa)----LOCK STITCH
倒針法(fa)----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角(jiao)針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊(yang)樹花(hua)針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳(tiao)針(zhen)法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫(feng)線跡(ji)----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫(feng)線(xian)跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線(xian)跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫(feng)線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)----FELL STITCH
倒(dao)縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線(xian)跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈(lian)式線(xian)跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡(ji)----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形(xing)線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡(ji)----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形(xing)狀線跡(ji)----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝(bei)殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼(yan)形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線(xian)跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形(xing)線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十(shi)字形狀(zhuang)線跡(ji)---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線跡(ji),十字線跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡(ji)----ROUND STITCH
廓(kuo)形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤(gou)編線(xian)跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補(bu)線跡(ji)---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點(dian)劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱(cheng)線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡(ji)---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合(he)線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線(xian)跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針(zhen)線(xian)跡(ji)---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三(san)重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線(xian)跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線(xian)跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線(xian)跡(ji)---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮(suo)線(xian)跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡(ji)---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針(zhen)法(fa)----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三(san)角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹(shu)花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳(tiao)針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)型(xing),縫(feng)式(shi)---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構縫(feng)-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通(tong)縫(feng)-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續(xu)縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間(jian)斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原(yuan)縫------THICK SEAM
中(zhong)縫------CENTRE SEAM
側縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫(feng)-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉(zhuan)角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平(ping)縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接(jie)縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼合縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線(xian)縫(feng)-----TWIN SEAM
鑲(xiang)色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫(feng)-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊(lai)克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫(feng)------OPENING SEAM
分緝(ji)縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫(feng)-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫(feng)-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明(ming)縫(feng),面(mian)縫(feng)--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗縫(feng)---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包(bao)縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖(suo)縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫(feng)------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫------CORDING SEAM
絎(heng)縫------QUILTING SEAM
格(ge)子縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀(zhuang)縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫(feng)------HANGING SEAM
保險縫(feng)-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固縫-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖(xiu)下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫(feng)-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶(zhe)裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織(zhi)補(bu)縫(feng)-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM