縫紉機(ji)線(xian)跡的(de)種類(lei)
縫紉機線跡(ji)的分類形式(shi)很多,1979年,國際標準化(hua)組織對線跡(ji)的種類,編號進行了規定,將標準線跡(ji)分為6大類:
100類-鏈式線跡
200類-仿(fang)手(shou)工線跡
300類-瑣式(shi)線跡(ji)
400類-多線(xian)(xian)鏈式線(xian)(xian)跡
500類-包縫線跡
600類-覆蓋線跡
100類中(zhong)最(zui)常(chang)用的是(shi)101和103兩種。101和103都是(shi)是(shi)單線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡,103常(chang)用于暗線(xian)挑縫。
300中(zhong)最(zui)常用的是(shi)301,304,308和(he)320。其(qi)中(zhong)301稱(cheng)單針平縫線(xian)跡,又是(shi)最(zui)最(zui)常用的線(xian)跡,304兩點人(ren)字線(xian)跡,308三點人(ren)字線(xian)跡,比301更(geng)有(you)彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最常(chang)用(yong)的(de)有(you)(you)504,505,512,514。504和505都是三線(xian)(xian)包(bao)縫線(xian)(xian)跡。504廣泛用(yong)于制衣業的(de)鎖邊工序,505主要(yao)針對(dui)中厚料(liao)。512和514是四線(xian)(xian)包(bao)縫又稱安全線(xian)(xian)跡。都由兩(liang)條針線(xian)(xian)兩(liang)條鉤線(xian)(xian)組成(cheng),只是鉤線(xian)(xian)與針線(xian)(xian)的(de)交圈方(fang)式(shi)上兩(liang)陣稍有(you)(you)不同。
600類(lei)中最常用的是602,605,607三種。602又稱二針網(wang)(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji),主(zhu)要用于(yu)(yu)針織(zhi)捏(nie)儀(yi),運動(dong)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)等(deng)。605又稱三針網(wang)(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji)。主(zhu)要用語(yu)衣服上縫(feng)橡津,切(qie)滾(gun)條和拼接縫(feng)的縫(feng)合等(deng)工(gong)(gong)序。607是四針網(wang)(wang)面線(xian)跡(ji),有四條針線(xian)知(zhi)識比(bi)605加(jia)了一條陣線(xian)其他類(lei)似。綜上所(suo)述,600類(lei)主(zhu)要用于(yu)(yu)針織(zhi)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的滾(gun)邊,滾(gun)領,折邊,拼接縫(feng)和裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾花邊等(deng)工(gong)(gong)序,其實(shi)也就(jiu)是繃縫(feng)啦(la)。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結(jie),倒回(hui)針,加固(gu)縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆蓋線(xian)跡,繃縫線(xian)跡
interlock stitch聯鎖線跡,多(duo)線鏈式(shi)線跡
single thread chain stitch單線(xian)(xian)(xian)鏈(lian)式線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,單線(xian)(xian)(xian)鏈(lian)狀線(xian)(xian)(xian),單線(xian)(xian)(xian)鎖鏈(lian)底(di)針步,(101線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡),(用于(yu)假縫,如(ru)袋(dai)口)
103線跡-blind stitch暗縫(feng),暗繰針縫(feng),挑腳,
301線(xian)跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)(ping)縫線(xian)跡(ji),普通線(xian)跡(ji),平(ping)(ping)車針步,(最常見的線(xian)跡(ji))
304線(xian)跡(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji),鋸齒形(xing)鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji),Z形(xing)鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji),之(zhi)字形(xing)平(ping)車針步,人字形(xing)平(ping)車針步,(底面線(xian)都是(shi)鎖式(shi)(shi)線(xian)跡(ji))
401線(xian)跡-single needle chain stitch單針鏈式線(xian)跡,單針鏈狀針步,單針鎖鏈底針步
404線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡-zigzag chain stitch曲(qu)折鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,鋸齒形鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,Z形鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,人字鎖鏈(lian)(lian)底針步,(面線(xian)(xian)(xian)是鎖式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,底線(xian)(xian)(xian)是鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡)
406線跡-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)底部覆蓋(gai)線跡,雙(shuang)針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步,(用(yong)于腰帶袢,針(zhen)織服(fu)裝的袖口、下(xia)擺等(deng))
407線跡(ji)-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針(zhen)底部繃縫(feng)線跡(ji),三針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步
408線跡-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針鏈式表(biao)面覆蓋線跡,雙針網(wang)面鎖鏈底針步
503線(xian)跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)線(xian)拷邊,雙(shuang)線(xian)包邊,雙(shuang)線(xian)钑骨
504線跡(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線跡(ji),拷邊(bian)(bian)線跡(ji),鎖邊(bian)(bian)線跡(ji),三線拷邊(bian)(bian),三線包邊(bian)(bian),三線钑骨,(最(zui)常見的拷邊(bian)(bian)線跡(ji))
512線(xian)跡(ji)-mock safety stitch假(jia)線(xian)跡(ji),模擬線(xian)跡(ji),(用于(yu)彈性面料(liao)接縫)
514線跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)四(si)線拷邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線包邊,雙針(zhen)四(si)線钑骨,(用于彈性面料(liao)接縫)
515線(xian)跡(ji)(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四(si)線(xian)安(an)全線(xian)跡(ji),四(si)線(xian)安(an)全針(zhen)步(bu)
516線(xian)跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五(wu)線(xian)拷(kao)邊,五(wu)線(xian)鎖邊,安(an)全(quan)線(xian)跡,五(wu)線(xian)包(bao)邊安(an)全(quan)線(xian)跡,五(wu)線(xian)钑(sa)骨(gu)
602線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙針四線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡(ji)
605線(xian)跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡
606線(xian)跡(ji)-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線(xian)平式繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)
607線跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六線平式(shi)繃縫(feng)線跡,pearl stitch珠(zhu)式(shi)線跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏(shu)縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面(mian)縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗(an)縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線(xian)跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡(ji)----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式(shi)線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形(xing)線(xian)跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓(gong)形線(xian)跡(ji)----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形(xing)狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀(zhuang)線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形(xing)狀(zhuang)線(xian)跡(ji)----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直(zhi)形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十(shi)字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉(cha)線跡(ji)(ji),十字線跡(ji)(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓形(xing)線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲(qu)折(zhe)形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變(bian)形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤(gou)編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線(xian)跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線(xian)跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特(te)殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式(shi)線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重(zhong)線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加(jia)固(gu)線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸(shen)縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷(juan)邊(bian)線跡(ji)---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷(juan)縫(feng)線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間(jian)斷線跡(ji)---BROKEN STITCH
跳針(zhen)線跡(ji)---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全(quan)線跡(ji)---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱(gong)針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰(qiao)針(zhen)法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法(fa)----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針(zhen)法(fa)----LOCK STITCH
倒針(zhen)法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針(zhen)法(fa)----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線跡(ji)----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎(heng)縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡(ji)----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫(feng)線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡(ji)----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡(ji)----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lian)式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽(yu)狀(zhuang)線(xian)跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線(xian)跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形(xing)線(xian)跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒(chi)形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀(zhuang)線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀(zhuang)線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形(xing)狀線跡(ji)---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線(xian)跡(ji)----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡(ji)---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織(zhi)補(bu)線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝(zhuang)飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式(shi)線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對(dui)稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡(ji)---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線(xian)跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復(fu)式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙(shuang)針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
三重(zhong)線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固(gu)線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡(ji)---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸(shen)縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷(juan)邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線(xian)跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷(duan)線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳(tiao)針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針(zhen)法----SLIP STITCH
拱(gong)針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰(qiao)針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針(zhen)法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針(zhen)法----FASTENING STITCH
扎(zha)針(zhen)法----PAD STITCH
扳針法(fa)----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針(zhen)法----LOCK STITCH
倒針(zhen)法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針(zhen)法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法(fa)----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳(tiao)針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普(pu)通縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間(jian)斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫(feng)------THICK SEAM
中(zhong)縫(feng)------CENTRE SEAM
側縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接(jie)合縫(feng)-----JOINING SEAM
拼(pin)合(he)縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙(shuang)線(xian)縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋(gai)縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去(qu)縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫(feng)-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒(dao)縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫(feng)-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明(ming)縫(feng),面(mian)縫(feng)--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗(an)縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包(bao)縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連(lian)鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫(feng)------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫(feng)-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀(zhuang)縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒(chi)縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形(xing)縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮(bian)形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸(tu)形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫(feng)------HANGING SEAM
保險(xian)縫(feng)-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固(gu)縫-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫(feng)------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫(feng)------SHOULDER SEAM
背(bei)縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖(xiu)下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫(feng)-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟(jin)止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫(feng)-----SIDE SEAM
衩(cha)縫------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰(yao)帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠(dang)縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠(dang)縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫(feng)-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折(zhe)疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶裥縫(feng)-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫(feng)-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊(bian)縫(feng)-----WELT SEAM
滾(gun)邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼(tie)帶縫-----TAPED SEAM