縫(feng)紉機線跡的種類
縫紉機線跡的(de)分(fen)類形式(shi)很多,1979年,國(guo)際標準(zhun)化組(zu)織(zhi)對線跡的(de)種類,編號進(jin)行了規定,將標準(zhun)線跡分(fen)為6大類:
100類-鏈式線(xian)跡(ji)
200類-仿手工線跡(ji)
300類-瑣式(shi)線(xian)跡
400類-多線鏈式(shi)線跡
500類(lei)-包縫線跡
600類-覆(fu)蓋(gai)線(xian)跡
100類中(zhong)最常(chang)用(yong)的是101和(he)(he)103兩(liang)種(zhong)。101和(he)(he)103都是是單線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡(ji),103常(chang)用(yong)于暗(an)線(xian)挑縫。
300中(zhong)最常用的是(shi)301,304,308和(he)320。其(qi)中(zhong)301稱(cheng)單針平縫線(xian)跡(ji),又是(shi)最最常用的線(xian)跡(ji),304兩點人字線(xian)跡(ji),308三點人字線(xian)跡(ji),比301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最(zui)常用(yong)的有(you)(you)504,505,512,514。504和(he)505都(dou)(dou)是三線(xian)(xian)(xian)包縫(feng)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。504廣泛用(yong)于制衣業的鎖(suo)邊工序,505主要針(zhen)對中厚料(liao)。512和(he)514是四線(xian)(xian)(xian)包縫(feng)又稱安全線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。都(dou)(dou)由兩條針(zhen)線(xian)(xian)(xian)兩條鉤線(xian)(xian)(xian)組成,只是鉤線(xian)(xian)(xian)與(yu)針(zhen)線(xian)(xian)(xian)的交圈(quan)方(fang)式上兩陣(zhen)稍有(you)(you)不同(tong)。
600類(lei)中(zhong)最常用(yong)的(de)是602,605,607三(san)種。602又稱二針(zhen)網(wang)面線跡(ji)(ji),主(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)要用(yong)于(yu)針(zhen)織(zhi)捏儀(yi),運動服(fu)裝等。605又稱三(san)針(zhen)網(wang)面線跡(ji)(ji)。主(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)要用(yong)語(yu)衣服(fu)上縫橡(xiang)津,切滾條(tiao)和(he)拼接(jie)縫的(de)縫合等工序(xu)。607是四(si)針(zhen)網(wang)面線跡(ji)(ji),有四(si)條(tiao)針(zhen)線知識比605加了一條(tiao)陣線其(qi)他(ta)類(lei)似。綜(zong)上所述,600類(lei)主(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)要用(yong)于(yu)針(zhen)織(zhi)服(fu)裝的(de)滾邊(bian)(bian),滾領,折邊(bian)(bian),拼接(jie)縫和(he)裝飾花邊(bian)(bian)等工序(xu),其(qi)實也就(jiu)是繃縫啦。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結,倒回針(zhen),加固縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆蓋線(xian)跡(ji),繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)
interlock stitch聯鎖線跡,多線鏈(lian)式線跡
single thread chain stitch單(dan)線(xian)(xian)鏈(lian)式線(xian)(xian)跡,單(dan)線(xian)(xian)鏈(lian)狀線(xian)(xian),單(dan)線(xian)(xian)鎖鏈(lian)底針步,(101線(xian)(xian)跡),(用于假(jia)縫(feng),如袋口(kou))
103線跡-blind stitch暗(an)縫,暗(an)繰針縫,挑腳,
301線跡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式(shi)線跡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),平縫線跡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),普(pu)通線跡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji),平車針步,(最常(chang)見(jian)的線跡(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji))
304線跡-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖式(shi)(shi)線跡,鋸(ju)齒形(xing)鎖式(shi)(shi)線跡,Z形(xing)鎖式(shi)(shi)線跡,之(zhi)字形(xing)平車針步,人字形(xing)平車針步,(底面(mian)線都是鎖式(shi)(shi)線跡)
401線(xian)跡-single needle chain stitch單針(zhen)鏈(lian)(lian)式線(xian)跡,單針(zhen)鏈(lian)(lian)狀(zhuang)針(zhen)步(bu),單針(zhen)鎖鏈(lian)(lian)底針(zhen)步(bu)
404線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,鋸齒形(xing)鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,Z形(xing)鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,人字鎖鏈(lian)(lian)底針(zhen)步(bu),(面線(xian)(xian)(xian)是鎖式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,底線(xian)(xian)(xian)是鏈(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡)
406線跡(ji)-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙針底部覆蓋(gai)線跡(ji),雙針網(wang)底針步,(用(yong)于腰帶袢,針織服裝的袖口、下擺等)
407線(xian)跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針(zhen)底部繃縫線(xian)跡,三針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步
408線(xian)跡-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙針(zhen)鏈式(shi)表(biao)面覆蓋(gai)線(xian)跡,雙針(zhen)網面鎖鏈底針(zhen)步
503線(xian)跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)拷邊,雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)包邊,雙(shuang)(shuang)線(xian)钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),拷(kao)邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),鎖邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),三(san)線(xian)(xian)拷(kao)邊,三(san)線(xian)(xian)包邊,三(san)線(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最(zui)常見(jian)的拷(kao)邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
512線(xian)(xian)跡-mock safety stitch假線(xian)(xian)跡,模擬(ni)線(xian)(xian)跡,(用于(yu)彈性面料接縫)
514線跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)四線拷邊,雙針(zhen)四線包邊,雙針(zhen)四線钑骨,(用于彈性(xing)面料(liao)接縫(feng))
515線(xian)跡(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四線(xian)安(an)全(quan)線(xian)跡,四線(xian)安(an)全(quan)針步
516線跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五(wu)線拷邊,五(wu)線鎖邊,安全線跡,五(wu)線包邊安全線跡,五(wu)線钑骨
602線跡-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)四線繃縫(feng)線跡
605線(xian)跡(ji)-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針(zhen)五線(xian)繃縫(feng)線(xian)跡(ji)
606線(xian)跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針(zhen)九線(xian)平式繃縫線(xian)跡
607線(xian)跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四(si)針六線(xian)平(ping)式繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡,pearl stitch珠式線(xian)跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡(ji)----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫(feng)線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡(ji)----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗(an)縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包(bao)縫線跡(ji)----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈(lian)式線(xian)跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線(xian)跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人(ren)字(zi)線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀(zhuang)線跡(ji)----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線(xian)跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀(zhuang)線跡(ji)----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝(bei)殼形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩(wo)形(xing)狀線(xian)跡(ji)----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線(xian)跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交(jiao)叉線(xian)跡(ji),十字線(xian)跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線(xian)跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變(bian)形線(xian)跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤(gou)編線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡(xiu)線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝(zhuang)飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼(yi)線跡---FLY STITCH
特(te)殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式(shi)線跡(ji)---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針(zhen)線(xian)跡(ji)---TWICE STITCH
雙重線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
三(san)重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫(feng)式線(xian)跡(ji)---SEAM STITCH
加(jia)固線(xian)跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶(zhe)線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾(gun)邊線跡(ji)---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷(juan)縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針(zhen)線跡(ji)---SKIPPING STITCH
安全(quan)線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針(zhen)法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法(fa)----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖(suo)針(zhen)法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針(zhen)法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹(shu)花針(zhen)法--FEATHER STITCH
花針(zhen)法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳(tiao)針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫(feng)線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗(an)縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡(ji)----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡(ji)----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包(bao)縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式(shi)線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式(shi)線(xian)跡(ji)----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lian)式線跡(ji)----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀(zhuang)線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式(shi)線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線(xian)跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線(xian)跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線(xian)跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線(xian)跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼(ke)形(xing)狀線(xian)跡----SHELL STITCH
網(wang)眼形狀線跡(ji)----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩(wo)形狀線(xian)跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直(zhi)形線(xian)跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓(kuo)形線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形(xing)線(xian)跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤(gou)編線(xian)跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線(xian)跡(ji)---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡(ji)---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾(shi)線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃(hua)線跡(ji)---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱(cheng)線跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線(xian)跡(ji)---FLY STITCH
特殊(shu)線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式(shi)線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙(shuang)針線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三(san)重線跡(ji)---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式(shi)線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡(ji)---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線(xian)跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線(xian)跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾(gun)邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線(xian)跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷(juan)縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼(pin)合線(xian)跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡(ji)---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚(liao)針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎(zha)針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針(zhen)法(fa)---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法(fa)----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)型,縫(feng)式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構縫(feng)-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通(tong)縫(feng)-----NORMAL SEAM
裝(zhuang)飾縫(feng)-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內(nei)縫------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫(feng)------THICK SEAM
中縫------CENTRE SEAM
側縫(feng)------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫(feng)-----CURVED SEAM
轉(zhuan)角縫(feng)-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接(jie)縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙搭接(jie)縫(feng)----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合(he)縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼(pin)合縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙線縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫(feng)-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃(beng)縫,覆蓋(gai)縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮(suo)縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐(zuo)緝(ji)縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫(feng)-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包(bao)縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線(xian)縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫(feng)------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子縫(feng)-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉(cha)縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡(pao)狀縫(feng)-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸(ju)齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶(dai)形縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸縫(feng)------HANGING SEAM
保險縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加(jia)固縫-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫(feng)------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫(feng)------BACK SEAM
背(bei)嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖下(xia)縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門(men)襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門(men)襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫(feng)------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫(feng)------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對(dui)折縫(feng)-----FELLED SEAM
卷(juan)邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM