縫紉機線跡的種類(lei)
縫紉機線跡的分(fen)類形式很多(duo),1979年,國(guo)際標(biao)準(zhun)化組織對(dui)線跡的種(zhong)類,編號(hao)進(jin)行了規定(ding),將標(biao)準(zhun)線跡分(fen)為(wei)6大類:
100類(lei)-鏈(lian)式線跡
200類-仿手工(gong)線跡
300類(lei)-瑣式線跡(ji)
400類-多線(xian)鏈式線(xian)跡
500類-包縫(feng)線跡
600類-覆(fu)蓋(gai)線(xian)跡
100類中(zhong)最常用的是(shi)101和103兩種(zhong)。101和103都是(shi)是(shi)單(dan)線鏈式線跡(ji),103常用于暗線挑縫。
300中(zhong)最(zui)(zui)常(chang)用的(de)是301,304,308和320。其中(zhong)301稱單針平縫線跡(ji)(ji),又(you)是最(zui)(zui)最(zui)(zui)常(chang)用的(de)線跡(ji)(ji),304兩點(dian)人(ren)字線跡(ji)(ji),308三(san)點(dian)人(ren)字線跡(ji)(ji),比(bi)301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最(zui)常用的有(you)504,505,512,514。504和505都是(shi)三線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)包縫線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。504廣泛用于制衣業的鎖邊工(gong)序,505主要針(zhen)對中厚料(liao)。512和514是(shi)四線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)包縫又稱安(an)全線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。都由兩(liang)條針(zhen)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)兩(liang)條鉤線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)組成,只是(shi)鉤線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)與針(zhen)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)的交圈方式上(shang)兩(liang)陣稍有(you)不同。
600類中(zhong)最常用的(de)是602,605,607三種。602又(you)稱二針網(wang)面線(xian)(xian)跡,主(zhu)(zhu)要用于(yu)針織(zhi)捏儀,運動服(fu)裝(zhuang)等。605又(you)稱三針網(wang)面線(xian)(xian)跡。主(zhu)(zhu)要用語衣服(fu)上(shang)縫(feng)橡津,切(qie)滾條和拼(pin)接縫(feng)的(de)縫(feng)合等工(gong)序(xu)。607是四針網(wang)面線(xian)(xian)跡,有四條針線(xian)(xian)知識比(bi)605加了一條陣線(xian)(xian)其(qi)(qi)他類似(si)。綜上(shang)所述,600類主(zhu)(zhu)要用于(yu)針織(zhi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)的(de)滾邊(bian),滾領,折邊(bian),拼(pin)接縫(feng)和裝(zhuang)飾花(hua)邊(bian)等工(gong)序(xu),其(qi)(qi)實也就是繃縫(feng)啦(la)。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結,倒回(hui)針,加固縫,打棗(zao)
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆(fu)蓋(gai)線跡,繃縫線跡
interlock stitch聯鎖線(xian)跡(ji),多線(xian)鏈(lian)式線(xian)跡(ji)
single thread chain stitch單(dan)線鏈式線跡,單(dan)線鏈狀線,單(dan)線鎖鏈底針步,(101線跡),(用(yong)于假縫,如袋口)
103線跡-blind stitch暗縫(feng)(feng),暗繰(qiao)針縫(feng)(feng),挑腳,
301線跡(ji)(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線跡(ji)(ji),平(ping)縫(feng)線跡(ji)(ji),普(pu)通線跡(ji)(ji),平(ping)車針步,(最常見(jian)的(de)線跡(ji)(ji))
304線(xian)(xian)跡-zigzag lock stitch曲折鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡,鋸齒形(xing)鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡,Z形(xing)鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡,之字形(xing)平(ping)車針(zhen)步,人(ren)字形(xing)平(ping)車針(zhen)步,(底面(mian)線(xian)(xian)都(dou)是鎖式線(xian)(xian)跡)
401線(xian)(xian)跡-single needle chain stitch單針(zhen)鏈式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡,單針(zhen)鏈狀針(zhen)步,單針(zhen)鎖鏈底(di)針(zhen)步
404線跡(ji)-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈式(shi)線跡(ji),鋸(ju)齒形(xing)鏈式(shi)線跡(ji),Z形(xing)鏈式(shi)線跡(ji),人字(zi)鎖鏈底針步,(面線是(shi)鎖式(shi)線跡(ji),底線是(shi)鏈式(shi)線跡(ji))
406線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙針(zhen)(zhen)底部覆蓋(gai)線(xian)跡(ji),雙針(zhen)(zhen)網底針(zhen)(zhen)步,(用(yong)于腰(yao)帶袢(pan),針(zhen)(zhen)織服裝的(de)袖(xiu)口、下擺等)
407線跡(ji)-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針(zhen)(zhen)底(di)(di)部繃縫線跡(ji),三針(zhen)(zhen)網底(di)(di)針(zhen)(zhen)步
408線(xian)跡-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙(shuang)針鏈(lian)式(shi)表面(mian)覆(fu)蓋線(xian)跡,雙(shuang)針網面(mian)鎖鏈(lian)底針步
503線(xian)跡-2 threads overedge stitch雙線(xian)拷邊,雙線(xian)包(bao)邊,雙線(xian)钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包縫線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),拷邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),鎖(suo)邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),三線(xian)(xian)拷邊,三線(xian)(xian)包邊,三線(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最(zui)常見的拷邊線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji))
512線跡-mock safety stitch假線跡,模擬線跡,(用于彈(dan)性面(mian)料接(jie)縫(feng))
514線(xian)跡(ji)-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙針(zhen)四線(xian)拷邊,雙針(zhen)四線(xian)包邊,雙針(zhen)四線(xian)钑骨,(用于彈性面料(liao)接縫)
515線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四(si)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)安全線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(ji),四(si)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)安全針步(bu)
516線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五線(xian)(xian)(xian)拷邊(bian),五線(xian)(xian)(xian)鎖邊(bian),安(an)全(quan)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,五線(xian)(xian)(xian)包(bao)邊(bian)安(an)全(quan)線(xian)(xian)(xian)跡,五線(xian)(xian)(xian)钑骨
602線跡-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙(shuang)針四線繃縫線跡
605線(xian)跡-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡
606線(xian)(xian)跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線(xian)(xian)平式繃縫線(xian)(xian)跡
607線(xian)跡(ji)-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針(zhen)六線(xian)平式繃縫線(xian)跡(ji),pearl stitch珠(zhu)式線(xian)跡(ji),
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡(ji)----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線(xian)跡(ji)----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌(qian)縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線(xian)跡(ji)----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡(ji)----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線(xian)跡(ji)----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線(xian)跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線(xian)跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線(xian)跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線(xian)跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓(gong)形(xing)線(xian)跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線(xian)跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼形狀線跡(ji)----SHELL STITCH
網(wang)眼形狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩(wo)形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙(shuang)十字形狀線(xian)跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線跡(ji),十字線跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓(yuan)形線(xian)跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形(xing)線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編(bian)線跡---CROCHET STITCH
織(zhi)補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡(xiu)線跡(ji)---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾(shi)線(xian)跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡(ji)---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱線跡(ji)---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊(shu)線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復(fu)合線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線(xian)跡(ji)---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式(shi)線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡(ji)---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶(zhe)線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線(xian)跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾(gun)邊(bian)線(xian)跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線(xian)跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗(an)卷(juan)縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線(xian)跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全(quan)線跡(ji)---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針(zhen)法----SLIP STITCH
拱針(zhen)法----PRICK STITCH
明繰(qiao)針法(fa)---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法(fa)---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針(zhen)法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針(zhen)法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針(zhen)法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針(zhen)法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃(beng)縫線(xian)跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡(ji)----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫線(xian)跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線(xian)跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖式線跡(ji)----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線(xian)跡----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀(zhuang)線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形(xing)線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角(jiao)形線跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀(zhuang)線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼(ke)形狀線跡(ji)----SHELL STITCH
網眼形(xing)狀(zhuang)線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形狀線(xian)跡(ji)----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形(xing)狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形線跡(ji)----OUTLINE STITCH
曲(qu)折(zhe)形線跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對(dui)稱線(xian)跡(ji)---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線(xian)跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線(xian)跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復(fu)合線跡(ji)---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙(shuang)針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打(da)結線跡(ji)---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線(xian)跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸(shen)縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊(bian)線跡(ji)---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷(juan)縫線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安全線跡---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法(fa)----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰(qiao)針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊(die)針法(fa)----FASTENING STITCH
扎(zha)針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法(fa)----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖(suo)針法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法(fa)----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊(yang)樹花針法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法(fa)----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構(gou)縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通(tong)縫-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間(jian)斷縫-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內(nei)縫------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫------THICK SEAM
中縫------CENTRE SEAM
側縫(feng)------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫(feng)-----CURVED SEAM
轉角縫-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接(jie)縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙(shuang)搭(da)接(jie)縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫-----JOINING SEAM
拼(pin)合縫(feng)-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙(shuang)線(xian)縫-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊(lai)克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸(shen)縮縫(feng)-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐(zuo)倒(dao)縫(feng)-----LAPPING SEAM
開縫------OPENING SEAM
分(fen)緝(ji)縫-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫(feng)-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗(an)縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗(an)邊縫-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫(feng)------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明(ming)包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗包縫(feng)-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫(feng)----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫(feng)------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫(feng)------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格子(zi)縫-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉(cha)縫(feng)-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫(feng)-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形(xing)縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫-----STRAP SEAM
懸(xuan)縫------HANGING SEAM
保險縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加固縫(feng)-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終(zhong)止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩縫------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖(xiu)下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門襟止(zhi)口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫------VENT SEAM
腰(yao)縫(feng)------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠(dang)縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫(feng)-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊(bian)縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補縫-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM