縫(feng)紉機線跡(ji)的種類
縫紉機線跡的(de)分(fen)類形式很多,1979年,國際(ji)標準(zhun)化組織對線跡的(de)種(zhong)類,編號進(jin)行了規(gui)定,將(jiang)標準(zhun)線跡分(fen)為(wei)6大(da)類:
100類-鏈式線跡
200類-仿手工線跡(ji)
300類-瑣式線(xian)跡
400類-多線鏈式(shi)線跡
500類-包縫線跡
600類-覆蓋線(xian)跡(ji)
100類中最常(chang)用的是(shi)101和(he)103兩種。101和(he)103都是(shi)是(shi)單線鏈式線跡,103常(chang)用于(yu)暗線挑(tiao)縫。
300中最(zui)常用的(de)是(shi)301,304,308和320。其中301稱單針平縫線跡,又是(shi)最(zui)最(zui)常用的(de)線跡,304兩點人(ren)字線跡,308三點人(ren)字線跡,比(bi)301更有彈性。
400類中最常用的是401,402,407。401又叫直線型雙線鏈式線跡,又一條針線一條鉤線組成。在底層縫料的底面利用相互交錯和相互交圈形成鎖鏈狀線跡。402又稱雙針網底線跡,又兩條針線和一條鉤線組成,通常用于針織褲子的側縫和手套背面的裝飾線條。407表面如三條平行的301線跡,底層則為網狀結構,主要用于車縫橡筋到內褲內衣上。
500類中最常用的(de)(de)有(you)504,505,512,514。504和(he)(he)505都(dou)是(shi)(shi)三線(xian)包縫線(xian)跡。504廣泛用于制(zhi)衣業(ye)的(de)(de)鎖(suo)邊工序,505主要針(zhen)(zhen)對(dui)中厚料。512和(he)(he)514是(shi)(shi)四(si)線(xian)包縫又稱安(an)全線(xian)跡。都(dou)由兩(liang)(liang)條針(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)兩(liang)(liang)條鉤線(xian)組(zu)成,只(zhi)是(shi)(shi)鉤線(xian)與針(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)的(de)(de)交圈方(fang)式上兩(liang)(liang)陣稍有(you)不(bu)同(tong)。
600類中(zhong)最常用的(de)(de)是602,605,607三種。602又稱二針網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),主要(yao)用于(yu)針織捏儀,運動服裝(zhuang)等。605又稱三針網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)。主要(yao)用語衣服上縫(feng)(feng)橡津,切滾(gun)條和(he)拼(pin)接縫(feng)(feng)的(de)(de)縫(feng)(feng)合等工(gong)(gong)序。607是四針網面線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),有四條針線(xian)(xian)知識比605加了一(yi)條陣線(xian)(xian)其他類似。綜上所述,600類主要(yao)用于(yu)針織服裝(zhuang)的(de)(de)滾(gun)邊,滾(gun)領,折邊,拼(pin)接縫(feng)(feng)和(he)裝(zhuang)飾(shi)花(hua)邊等工(gong)(gong)序,其實也就是繃縫(feng)(feng)啦(la)。)
bartack,(bar tack,bar-tack)套結,倒(dao)回針,加固縫,打棗
flat-lock stitch,(flat lock stitch),covering stitch覆蓋線跡(ji),繃縫(feng)線跡(ji)
interlock stitch聯鎖(suo)線跡(ji),多線鏈(lian)式線跡(ji)
single thread chain stitch單(dan)線鏈式線跡(ji),單(dan)線鏈狀線,單(dan)線鎖鏈底針步,(101線跡(ji)),(用(yong)于假縫,如袋(dai)口)
103線(xian)跡-blind stitch暗縫(feng),暗繰(qiao)針縫(feng),挑腳,
301線跡(ji)-lock stitch,plain stitch鎖式線跡(ji),平縫(feng)線跡(ji),普通(tong)線跡(ji),平車針步(bu),(最(zui)常(chang)見的(de)線跡(ji))
304線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-zigzag lock stitch曲折(zhe)鎖(suo)(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),鋸齒形鎖(suo)(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),Z形鎖(suo)(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji),之字(zi)形平車針步,人字(zi)形平車針步,(底面線(xian)(xian)都是(shi)鎖(suo)(suo)式(shi)(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji))
401線跡(ji)-single needle chain stitch單(dan)針(zhen)鏈式線跡(ji),單(dan)針(zhen)鏈狀針(zhen)步(bu),單(dan)針(zhen)鎖鏈底針(zhen)步(bu)
404線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-zigzag chain stitch曲折鏈(lian)(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),鋸齒形鏈(lian)(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),Z形鏈(lian)(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),人字鎖(suo)鏈(lian)(lian)(lian)底針(zhen)步,(面線(xian)(xian)是鎖(suo)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),底線(xian)(xian)是鏈(lian)(lian)(lian)式(shi)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji))
406線跡-2 needles bottom cover stitch雙(shuang)(shuang)針(zhen)底部覆(fu)蓋(gai)線跡,雙(shuang)(shuang)針(zhen)網底針(zhen)步(bu),(用(yong)于腰(yao)帶袢,針(zhen)織服裝(zhuang)的袖口、下(xia)擺等(deng))
407線(xian)跡-3 needles bottom cover stitch三針底(di)部(bu)繃(beng)縫(feng)線(xian)跡,三針網底(di)針步
408線跡(ji)-2 needles chain stitch with cover thread雙(shuang)針鏈式表面(mian)覆蓋(gai)線跡(ji),雙(shuang)針網面(mian)鎖鏈底(di)針步
503線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)-2 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)線(xian)(xian)拷(kao)邊,雙(shuang)線(xian)(xian)包邊,雙(shuang)線(xian)(xian)钑骨
504線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-overlock stitch,coveredge stitch,3 threads overedge stitch包(bao)縫線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),拷邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),鎖邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),三線(xian)(xian)拷邊(bian)(bian),三線(xian)(xian)包(bao)邊(bian)(bian),三線(xian)(xian)钑骨,(最常見(jian)的拷邊(bian)(bian)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji))
512線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji)-mock safety stitch假(jia)線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),模(mo)擬線(xian)(xian)跡(ji)(ji),(用于彈(dan)性(xing)面料(liao)接縫)
514線(xian)(xian)跡-2 needles 4 threads overedge stitch雙(shuang)針(zhen)四線(xian)(xian)拷(kao)邊,雙(shuang)針(zhen)四線(xian)(xian)包邊,雙(shuang)針(zhen)四線(xian)(xian)钑(sa)骨,(用于彈性面料接縫)
515線跡(401+503)-4 threads safety stitch四(si)線安全(quan)線跡,四(si)線安全(quan)針步
516線跡(401+504)-safety stitch,5 threads safety stitch五(wu)(wu)線拷邊(bian),五(wu)(wu)線鎖邊(bian),安全線跡,五(wu)(wu)線包邊(bian)安全線跡,五(wu)(wu)線钑(sa)骨
602線(xian)跡-2 needles 4 threads cover stitch雙針(zhen)四線(xian)繃縫線(xian)跡
605線跡(ji)(ji)-3 needles 5 threads cover stitch三針五線繃縫線跡(ji)(ji)
606線(xian)(xian)跡-4 needles 9 threads cover stitch,(flatlock stitch)四針九線(xian)(xian)平式繃縫(feng)線(xian)(xian)跡
607線跡-4 needles 6 threads cover stitch,(flatseamer/flatlock stitch)四針六(liu)線平式繃縫線跡,pearl stitch珠式線跡,
(Used in knitting,for fancy borders and edges,one which worked back on itself allowing a rippled effect to be made.Because of this,he received the nickname of"perley wilson"。)
線跡服飾工藝知識
平縫線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏(shu)縫線跡(ji)----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITC
繃縫線跡----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗(an)縫(feng)線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫(feng)線跡(ji)----SLIP STITCH
折(zhe)縫線(xian)跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖(suo)式線(xian)跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡----CHAIN STITCH
聯(lian)式線(xian)跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字(zi)線跡(ji)----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽(yu)狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線(xian)跡----ANGLE STITCH
弓形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸齒形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝殼(ke)形狀線跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形(xing)狀線跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩(wo)形狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直形線跡----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形(xing)狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交(jiao)叉線跡(ji),十字線跡(ji)---CROSS STITCH
圓形(xing)線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓形(xing)線跡----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折形線跡(ji)---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變(bian)形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編(bian)線(xian)跡---CROCHET STITCH
織補線(xian)跡---DARNING STITCH
刺(ci)繡(xiu)線(xian)跡---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾(shi)線跡---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線跡---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱(cheng)線跡(ji)---COUNTER STITCH
比(bi)翼(yi)線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復(fu)合線跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡(ji)---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針(zhen)線(xian)跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重線跡---TWICE STITCH
三重線跡(ji)---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加(jia)固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打(da)結線跡---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線(xian)跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡(ji)---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫(feng)線跡---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間(jian)斷(duan)線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全(quan)線跡(ji)---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針(zhen)法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針法----FASTENING STITCH
扎(zha)針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖針法----LOCK STITCH
倒(dao)針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹(shu)花針(zhen)法--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫(feng)線跡----PLAIN STITCH,FLAT STITCH
疏縫線跡(ji)----BASTING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
繃縫線跡(ji)----COVERING STITCH,FLAT-LOCK STITCH
絎縫線跡(ji)----QUILTED STITCH
嵌縫線跡----CORD STITCH
面縫線跡----TOP STITCH,OVER STITCH
暗縫(feng)線跡----INVISIBLE STITCH,BLIND STITCH
繰縫線跡----SLIP STITCH
折縫(feng)線跡----FELL STITCH
倒縫線跡----REVERSIBLE STITCH,BACKWARD STITCH
包縫線跡(ji)----OVERLOCK STITCH,OVERCASTING STITCH,OVEREDGE
鎖(suo)式線(xian)跡----LOCK STITCH,LOCKSTITCH
鏈式線跡(ji)----CHAIN STITCH
聯式線跡----CHAINLOCK STITCH
人字線跡(ji)----HERRINGBONE STITCH
羽狀線跡----FEATHER STITCH
珠(zhu)式線跡----PEARL STITCH
Z形線(xian)跡----CATCH STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
角形線跡(ji)----ANGLE STITCH
弓(gong)形線跡----ARCHED STITCH
鋸(ju)齒(chi)形狀線跡----PICOT STITCH,ZIGZAG STITCH
貝(bei)殼形狀線(xian)跡----SHELL STITCH
網眼形狀線(xian)跡----BASKET STITCH
蜂窩形(xing)狀線跡----HONEYCOMB STITCH
直(zhi)形線跡(ji)----STRAIGHT STITCH
雙十字形狀線跡---DOUBLE STITCH
交叉線(xian)跡,十字線(xian)跡---CROSS STITCH
圓形線跡----ROUND STITCH
廓(kuo)形(xing)線跡(ji)----OUTLINE STITCH
曲折(zhe)形線(xian)跡---ZIGZAG SITITCH
變形線跡---CHANGE STITCH
鉤編(bian)線跡(ji)---CROCHET STITCH
織補線跡---DARNING STITCH
刺繡線跡(ji)---EMBROIDERY STITCH,CREWEL STITCH
裝飾線跡(ji)---ORNAMENTAL STITCH,DECORATIVE STITCH
花式(shi)線跡---FANCY STITCH
點劃線(xian)跡(ji)---DOT DASH STITCH
對稱(cheng)線(xian)跡---COUNTER STITCH
比翼線跡---FLY STITCH
特殊線跡---SPECIAL STITCH
復合線(xian)跡---COMBINATION STITCH,SPLIT STITCH
復式線跡---DOUBLE ACTION STITCH
雙針線跡---TWICE STITCH
雙重(zhong)線跡---TWICE STITCH
三(san)重線(xian)跡(ji)---TRIPLE STITCH
縫式線跡---SEAM STITCH
加固線跡---FASTENING STITCH,TACKING STITCH
打結線跡(ji)---KNOTTING STITCH
扎縛線跡---PADDING STITCH
袖褶線跡---SHIRRING STITCH
伸縮線跡---STRETCH STITCH,ELASIC STITCH
滾邊線跡---BINDING STITCH
卷邊線跡(ji)---HEMMING STITCH
暗卷縫線跡(ji)---BLINDING HEMMING STITCH
拼合線(xian)跡---ABUTTING STITCH
間斷線跡---BROKEN STITCH
跳(tiao)針線跡---SKIPPING STITCH
安(an)全線跡(ji)---SAFETY STITCH
手針縫法
繚針法----SLIP STITCH
拱針法----PRICK STITCH
明繰針法---FELL STITCH
暗繰針法---BLING HEMMING STITCH
環(huan)針法----CATCH STITCH
疊針(zhen)法(fa)----FASTENING STITCH
扎針法----PAD STITCH
扳針法(fa)----DIAGONAL BASTING
絎針法----QUILTING STITCH
鎖(suo)針(zhen)法----LOCK STITCH
倒針法----BARTACK STITCH,BACK STITCH
三角針法---HERRINGBONE STITCH
楊樹花針法(fa)--FEATHER STITCH
花針法----ZIGZAG STITCH
跳針法----SKIPPING STITCH
縫型,縫式(shi)---SEAM TYPE,SEAM PATTERN
結構(gou)縫-----COMPOSITE SEAM
普通縫(feng)-----NORMAL SEAM
裝飾縫(feng)-----ORNAMENTAL SEAM,DECORATIVE SEAM
連續(xu)縫-----CONTINUOUS SEAM
間斷縫(feng)-----BROKEN SEAM
長縫------LONG SEAM
短縫------SHORT SEAM
內縫(feng)------INSEAM
外縫---------OUTSEAM
原縫------THICK SEAM
中縫(feng)------CENTRE SEAM
側縫------SIDE SEAM
斜線縫-----BIAS SEAM
繚(liao)縫------SLANTING SEAM
弧線縫-----CURVED SEAM
轉角(jiao)縫-----CORNER SEAM
平縫--------------FLAT SEAM
平接縫-----SLAT FELL SEAM,BUTTED SEA M
搭接縫-----LAPPING SEAM
雙(shuang)搭接縫----DOUBLE LAPPED SEAM
接合縫(feng)-----JOINING SEAM
拼(pin)合(he)縫-----ABUTTED SEAM
雙(shuang)線縫(feng)-----TWIN SEAM
鑲色縫-----CONTRAST COLOR SEAM
嵌花縫-----APPLIANCE SEAM'
繃縫,覆蓋縫--FLAT LOCK SEAM,COVERED SEAM
來去縫-----FRENCH SEAM,BAG SEAM
萊克拉縫----LYCRA SEAM
伸縮(suo)縫-----STRETCH SEAM,ELASTIC SEAM
漏落縫(feng)-----SELF BOUND SEAM
坐倒縫-----LAPPING SEAM
開(kai)縫------OPENING SEAM
分緝縫(feng)-----DOUBLE TOPSTITCHED SEAM
壓緝縫-----TOPSTITCHED LAP SEAM
坐緝縫-----TUCKED SEAM
成形縫(feng)-----FINISHING SEAM,FASHION SEAM
明縫,面縫--OUTSEAM,TOPSTICH SEAM
暗(an)縫---------BLIND SEAM,INVISIBLE SEAM
暗邊縫(feng)-----HIND EDGE SEAM
包縫------OVERSEAM,CLOSED SEAM,OVEREDGE SEAM,OVERCAST SEAM,OVERLOCK SEAM
明包縫-----FLAT FELL SEAM
暗(an)包(bao)縫-----WELT SEAM
鎖式線縫----LOCKSTITCH SEAM
連鎖縫(feng)-----INTERLOCK SEAM
鏈式線縫----CHAINSTITCH SEAM
環縫------CATCH STITCH SEAM
嵌縫(feng)------CORDING SEAM
絎縫------QUILTING SEAM
格(ge)子縫(feng)-----LATTICE SEAM
交叉縫-----CROSS SEAM
泡狀縫-----BEADED SEAM,
鋸(ju)齒縫-----GERMAN SEAM,ZIGZAG SEAM
曲(qu)折縫-----ZIGZAG SEAM
蝶形縫-----BUTTERFLY SEAM
辮形縫-----PLAITED SEAM
凸(tu)形縫-----RAISED SEAM
帶形縫(feng)-----STRAP SEAM
懸(xuan)縫------HANGING SEAM
保險(xian)縫(feng)-----FLAT FELL SEAM
加(jia)固縫-----TACKING SEAM,FASTENING SEAM
終止縫-----FINAL SEAM
領縫(feng)------COLLAR SEAM NECK SEAM
肩(jian)縫(feng)------SHOULDER SEAM
背縫------BACK SEAM
背嵌縫-----CENTRE BACK SEAM
袖下縫-----UNDERARM SEAM
袖籠縫-----ARMHOLE SEAM
門襟縫-----FRONT FLY SEAM,PLACKET SEA M
門(men)襟止口縫---FORNT EDGE SEAM
擺縫(feng)-----SIDE SEAM
衩縫(feng)------VENT SEAM
腰縫------WAISTLINE SEAM
腰帶縫-----WAISTBAND SEAM
襠縫------CROTCH SEAM
前襠縫-----FRONT RISE SEAM
后襠縫-----BACK RISE SEAM,SEAT SEAM
下襠縫-----INSIDE SEAM,INSEAM
折疊縫-----FOLDING SEAM
褶(zhe)裥縫-----BUCKED SEAM,PLKEAT SEAM
對折(zhe)縫-----FELLED SEAM
卷邊縫-----HEMMING SEAM
貼邊縫-----WELT SEAM
滾邊縫-----BOUND SEAM
織補(bu)縫(feng)-----DARNING SEAM
貼帶縫-----TAPED SEAM