祝融(rong)峰(feng)位于(yu)湖(hu)南(nan)省衡(heng)陽市南(nan)岳(yue)區(qu)的(de)南(nan)岳(yue)衡(heng)山(shan)(shan),挺拔突起,高(gao)(gao)出芙(fu)蓉、紫蓋、天(tian)柱(zhu)、祥光、煙霞、軫(zhen)宿諸峰(feng)之上,祝融(rong)峰(feng),海(hai)拔1300.2米(mi),高(gao)(gao)聳云霄,雄峙南(nan)天(tian),是(shi)南(nan)岳(yue)衡(heng)山(shan)(shan)72峰(feng)的(de)主峰(feng)。
南岳諸(zhu)多(duo)景觀中,祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)之(zhi)高,方廣寺之(zhi)深,藏經(jing)殿之(zhi)秀(xiu),水簾洞之(zhi)奇,歷來被稱為“四(si)絕”。峰(feng)頭花崗巖裸露(lu)地表,黑(hei)石(shi)嶙峋,峰(feng)背巨崖(ya),壁立千仞;望月臺側,奇石(shi)堆疊,聳出十余丈,成為峰(feng)頂(ding)的高點。峰(feng)腰到峰(feng)麓,松杉環(huan)繞,郁郁蔥蔥,深綠無(wu)際(ji)。在峰(feng)麓通過喜(xi)陽峰(feng)的路側,還有一(yi)(yi)片常綠闊葉林,學名“多(duo)脈(mo)青(qing)岡林”,綠葉成陰,碧(bi)濤滿耳,經(jing)風撲衣,理引人興起(qi)“五(wu)岳獨(du)秀(xiu)”的一(yi)(yi)種(zhong)感(gan)覺。登祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)頂(ding),極目(mu)四(si)望,峰(feng)高眼闊,胸懷無(wu)際(ji)。腳(jiao)下群峰(feng)如(ru)浪,綠濤起(qi)伏,湘江(jiang)如(ru)帶,彎曲(qu)成五(wu)條白練,遙(yao)向祝(zhu)融(rong),俗稱“五(wu)龍捧圣(sheng)”。
登(deng)衡山必登(deng)祝(zhu)(zhu)融。古人說:“不(bu)(bu)登(deng)祝(zhu)(zhu)融,不(bu)(bu)足以(yi)知其高(gao)。”唐代文學家(jia)韓愈詩云(yun):“祝(zhu)(zhu)融萬丈(zhang)拔地(di)(di)起,欲見(jian)不(bu)(bu)見(jian)青煙里(li)”。兩(liang)句詩形象(xiang)的(de)(de)描寫(xie)了祝(zhu)(zhu)融峰(feng)的(de)(de)高(gao)峻(jun)、雄偉,這(zhe)里(li)不(bu)(bu)僅可以(yi)眺望到連綿不(bu)(bu)絕(jue)的(de)(de)群山,在無云(yun)的(de)(de)夜晚(wan),到這(zhe)里(li)賞月(yue),別有一番美景。游人站在臺上(shang)欣(xin)賞月(yue)色(se),較在平地(di)(di)上(shang)別有一番景象(xiang)。即使月(yue)亮西沉,這(zhe)里(li)也(ye)還留(liu)有它的(de)(de)余(yu)輝。正如明(ming)代孫應鰲的(de)(de)詩所描繪(hui):"人間朗魂已(yi)落盡,此地(di)(di)清(qing)光猶未(wei)低(di)。"幽(you)妙的(de)(de)情景,可以(yi)想見(jian)了。
祝融(rong)峰附(fu)近寺(si)廟林(lin)立(li),景物各有千秋。南(nan)岳佛教的五大叢林(lin),祝融(rong)峰下就(jiu)占(zhan)了(le)兩座。南(nan)面有上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si),隋(sui)(sui)代以前叫(jiao)光天觀,是道(dao)教活(huo)動的地方(fang)。隋(sui)(sui)場(chang)帝大業年間,下令改為上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si)。沿(yan)上(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺(si)正前方(fang)走,可(ke)見傲然兀立(li)的石牌坊,這(zhe)就(jiu)是南(nan)天門(men),其(qi)石柱上(shang)(shang)刻有對聯:"門(men)可(ke)通天,仰現碧(bi)落星辰(chen)近;路承絕頂,俯瞰翠微巒嶼低!"傳神之筆(bi),叫(jiao)人真(zhen)想踏上(shang)(shang)一塊白云,隨風飄去(qu)。
上(shang)封字后(hou)的山上(shang)有個(ge)觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai)(tai)(tai),現(xian)設有氣象臺(tai)(tai)(tai)。在觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)旁邊,有一(yi)(yi)塊石碑(bei),上(shang)面刻有"觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)出處(chu)"四個(ge)大(da)字,在秋高氣爽,特(te)別是雨后(hou)初晴的日(ri)(ri)(ri)子(zi)里,游人可以(yi)看(kan)到(dao)(dao)"一(yi)(yi)輪(lun)紅(hong)日(ri)(ri)(ri)滾金(jin)球"的奇(qi)景。為了看(kan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)出,游人需要(yao)先一(yi)(yi)天住在上(shang)封寺的招待(dai)所里,次日(ri)(ri)(ri)黎明前,趕到(dao)(dao)觀日(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)。如遇晴天,則可看(kan)到(dao)(dao)東方一(yi)(yi)片灰白的天空(kong),漸漸地(di)出現(xian)了微(wei)微(wei)的鮮紅(hong)色,接(jie)著一(yi)(yi)道(dao)道(dao)光芒噴(pen)薄而出,五彩繽紛(fen)。剎那間,太陽似(si)乎從地(di)干線(xian)下向上(shang)一(yi)(yi)躍,浮(fu)出了部分弧(hu)形的紅(hong)邊,紅(hong)邊很(hen)快變成了半邊紅(hong)輪(lun),繼而成為一(yi)(yi)個(ge)火紅(hong)的圓球。金(jin)輪(lun)涌出,上(shang)下蕩漾。旭日(ri)(ri)(ri)冉冉升起(qi),曙光灑向大(da)地(di),萬物生機勃(bo)勃(bo)。青山綠樹,遍披(pi)金(jin)色的彩衣,秀麗(li)萬狀(zhuang)。
由于每(mei)天天氣(qi)變(bian)化不同,日(ri)出的(de)情(qing)景也千姿百態,各呈(cheng)異彩(cai),使南(nan)岳(yue)壯觀的(de)日(ri)出,更加美不勝收。
祝融殿
祝(zhu)融峰(feng)頂(ding)有祝(zhu)融殿(dian),原名老圣帝殿(dian),明萬歷年間(1573—1620)始(shi)建(jian)為祠。因山(shan)(shan)高風大,所以(yi)(yi)建(jian)筑(zhu)是(shi)用堅固的花崗巖(yan)砌墻,以(yi)(yi)鐵瓦(wa)蓋的頂(ding),殿(dian)宇(yu)凌(ling)風傲雪,巍然屹立在絕頂(ding)巨石(shi)之上(shang)。建(jian)筑(zhu)是(shi)后來重新修建(jian)的,殿(dian)后巖(yan)石(shi)上(shang)裝有石(shi)欄(lan)桿(gan),北山(shan)(shan)風光盡收眼(yan)底。
山(shan)(shan)頂的祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)是清乾隆十(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(1751年(nian)(nian))下詔重(zhong)建的,石墻鐵瓦。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)君這位職(zhi)掌南離(li)的火(huo)正(zheng)宮,經過歷(li)代(dai)(dai)帝(di)王(wang)的神化和加官進爵,由隋、唐兩(liang)代(dai)(dai)的“司天(tian)王(wang)”到宋朝(chao)的“司天(tian)昭(zhao)圣帝(di)”,制擬帝(di)王(wang),祀以(yi)國典。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)自清朝(chao)乾隆重(zhong)修(xiu)(xiu)后(hou),因風(feng)(feng)(feng)霜蝕剝(bo),民(min)國二十(shi)一年(nian)(nian),時(shi)(shi)任湖南省(sheng)主席的何(he)鍵又(you)(you)捐資重(zhong)修(xiu)(xiu)。1982年(nian)(nian)南岳(yue)管理(li)局重(zhong)新翻修(xiu)(xiu),始成(cheng)(cheng)為(wei)(wei)的面(mian)貌(mao)。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)高踞祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂,構筑在(zai)(zai)一個奇石重(zhong)壘、風(feng)(feng)(feng)急云涌的百(bai)多(duo)平方(fang)(fang)米(mi)的頂隙(xi)里,可(ke)以(yi)想見當年(nian)(nian)建筑的艱辛。從祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)麓的上(shang)封寺到峰(feng)(feng)頂的祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian),有(you)(you)(you)花崗(gang)石路(lu)層(ceng)層(ceng)梯(ti)接到峰(feng)(feng)頂底(di)下,石路(lu)兩(liang)旁,矮松成(cheng)(cheng)竹,山(shan)(shan)花爛(lan)漫,頗為(wei)(wei)潔致。從峰(feng)(feng)頂底(di)腳(jiao)通(tong)到祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)門(men)前石砌平臺(tai)(tai)(tai),有(you)(you)(you)三十(shi)多(duo)級(ji)陡(dou)峻(jun)的花崗(gang)石臺(tai)(tai)(tai)階。山(shan)(shan)門(men)是座牌坊式建筑,牌坊上(shang)有(you)(you)(you)“祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)”三字石額,卻未額為(wei)(wei)“祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)”。門(men)兩(liang)側有(you)(you)(you)對(dui)聯:“寅(yin)賓(bin)出(chu)日,峻(jun)極于天(tian)。”前者指清晨五到六(liu)點(dian)時(shi)(shi)太陽升起,后(hou)者說(shuo)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂比(bi)天(tian)還高峻(jun)。這副對(dui)聯的句子集自《詩經》,對(dui)仗工(gong)穩,渾然(ran)天(tian)成(cheng)(cheng),又(you)(you)切合祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂景物(wu)。祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)右(you)側走廊有(you)(you)(you)另一條小門(men)通(tong)向望月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)。望月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)比(bi)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)基約高2-3米(mi),是花崗(gang)巖(yan)風(feng)(feng)(feng)化后(hou)裸露而成(cheng)(cheng)。整塊巖(yan)面(mian)不(bu)(bu)到4.5平方(fang)(fang)米(mi),靠邊處圍(wei)上(shang)石欄(lan),既可(ke)臨風(feng)(feng)(feng)小坐(zuo),也(ye)可(ke)憑石欄(lan)桿眺望。因為(wei)(wei)它是較高點(dian),所以(yi)空景無際,山(shan)(shan)風(feng)(feng)(feng)襲(xi)人,瀟湘帆(fan)影,遠(yuan)近(jin)山(shan)(shan)巒,盡奔眼(yan)底(di)。望月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)石上(shang)原(yuan)有(you)(you)(you)不(bu)(bu)少石刻(ke),因為(wei)(wei)刻(ke)在(zai)(zai)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)面(mian)石上(shang),風(feng)(feng)(feng)雪侵蝕,游人摩挲、踐(jian)踏,許多(duo)已漸磨(mo)滅(mie)。現存的有(you)(you)(you)明朝(chao)嘉靖(jing)丁巳(1577年(nian)(nian))九月(yue)寶慶知府(fu)書(shu)刻(ke)“望月(yue)壇”三個約50厘米(mi)見方(fang)(fang)的字,鐫刻(ke)在(zai)(zai)巖(yan)的內壁上(shang),楷書(shu)橫排。其余(yu)在(zai)(zai)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)石上(shang)與臺(tai)(tai)(tai)內外(wai)峭壁上(shang)的石刻(ke)還清晰可(ke)辨的有(you)(you)(you)“竣極”、“仰止處”、“果是高”、“青(qing)云在(zai)(zai)望”、“青(qing)云滿袖”、“山(shan)(shan)不(bu)(bu)厭高”、“覺(jue)夢(meng)處”、“千維(wei)綠”、“天(tian)外(wai)幽賞(shang)”、“壽比(bi)南山(shan)(shan)”、“唯我(wo)是高,尊峙寰中”等等,大都不(bu)(bu)知是何(he)年(nian)(nian)何(he)代(dai)(dai)刻(ke)品(pin)。
望月臺
在祝(zhu)融殿的西邊(bian),有望(wang)月臺(tai)(tai),是一塊高聳的巉(chan)巖(yan),上(shang)有石刻,字(zi)跡清晰(xi)可辨,月明(ming)之夜,皓月臨空(kong),銀光四(si)射,景色格外明(ming)麗。游人(ren)站在臺(tai)(tai)上(shang),欣(xin)賞月色,較在平(ping)地(di)(di)上(shang)別有一番景象。即使月亮西沉,這里也留有它(ta)的余輝。正如明(ming)代孫(sun)應鰲(ao)的詩所(suo)描繪的:“人(ren)間朗魄已落盡,此地(di)(di)清光猶(you)未低。”幽妙的情景,可以想見了。
上封寺
祝融峰附近寺廟林立,其南面(mian)有(you)上(shang)封(feng)寺,隋代以(yi)前叫光天觀(guan)(guan),是道教(jiao)活動的地方。隋煬帝大業年間(605—618),下令(ling)改(gai)為(wei)上(shang)封(feng)寺。上(shang)封(feng)寺的正(zheng)前方是南天門。上(shang)封(feng)寺后的山上(shang)有(you)觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺(tai),現設(she)有(you)氣(qi)(qi)象臺(tai)。在觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)臺(tai)旁邊,有(you)一塊石碑(bei),上(shang)面(mian)刻有(you)“觀(guan)(guan)日(ri)出處”四(si)個大字(zi),在秋高氣(qi)(qi)爽,特別是雨(yu)后初晴(qing)的日(ri)子(zi)里,游人(ren)可以(yi)看(kan)到“一輪(lun)紅(hong)日(ri)滾金(jin)球(qiu)”的奇景。
雷池
祝融峰(feng)頂還有(you)(you)(you)個特殊(shu)景色(se)——雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)。在祝融峰(feng)腰上(shang)(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)寺側有(you)(you)(you)個很(hen)神秘(mi)的(de)(de)(de)地方,俗(su)稱“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)”。“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)”只是石崖邊一(yi)個面積不足4平方米,深不到1/3米的(de)(de)(de)小(xiao)石池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)。傳說每(mei)當峰(feng)頂雷(lei)霆怒(nu)發時,這(zhe)(zhe)個青苔(tai)滿壁的(de)(de)(de)黑(hei)黝黝小(xiao)石池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)上(shang)(shang)(shang)一(yi)定會金蛇(she)亂閃,暴雷(lei)炸裂,而(er)在池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)畔(pan)另有(you)(you)(you)個小(xiao)穴(xue)(xue),俗(su)稱“風穴(xue)(xue)”,這(zhe)(zhe)時,也就風煙繚繞(rao),濤(tao)聲陣陣。宋朝(chao)的(de)(de)(de)陳(chen)從(cong)古(gu)曾有(you)(you)(you)《登祝融峰(feng)雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)》詩:“上(shang)(shang)(shang)封(feng)(feng)峰(feng)頭(tou)帝所宇,傍有(you)(you)(you)雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)亙(gen)今古(gu)。去天五(wu)尺銀河通,帝遣雷(lei)公宰(zai)云雨(yu)(yu)。我來(lai)正(zheng)值秋雨(yu)(yu)時,再拜乞龍(long)龍(long)勿拒。快得此(ci)雨(yu)(yu)洗(xi)甲(jia)兵,免使中原困(kun)胡虜。”陳(chen)從(cong)古(gu)這(zhe)(zhe)首(shou)詩每(mei)字(zi)約25厘米見方,隸書(shu)豎刻(ke),字(zi)在雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)附近通望日臺路側石壁上(shang)(shang)(shang),從(cong)題(ti)刻(ke)可見“雷(lei)池(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)(chi)”至少鑿于(yu)陳(chen)從(cong)古(gu)之前,至今已逾千年,也算一(yi)特種文物(wu)。
南山摩崖石刻
南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳有(you)關(guan)部門根據(ju)史籍記載(zai),幾度冒(mao)著烈日登(deng)山(shan)(shan)探尋,終于在南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳衡山(shan)(shan)高峰——祝融峰,找到了古代“南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”大(da)型石刻,一展“南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”芳(fang)容。
清光緒版《南岳志》記(ji)載,有(you)“壽比南山(shan)”四字題刻于南岳祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)北墻基下(xia)舍身(shen)崖上(今望月臺附近),楷書陰刻,每(mei)字一米(mi)見(jian)方。但此次南岳相關部門幾度探尋,只發現“南山(shan)”二(er)(er)字。專家分析,“壽比”二(er)(er)字可能在(zai)修葺祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)時壓在(zai)殿(dian)腳下(xia)了。
祝融(rong)(rong)峰是(shi)根據火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen)祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)的名(ming)字命名(ming)的,相傳祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)是(shi)上古(gu)軒轅(yuan)黃(huang)帝的大臣,是(shi)火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)神(shen),人(ren)類發明鉆(zhan)木取火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)后卻不(bu)會保存(cun)火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)種和不(bu)會用火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo),祝融(rong)(rong)氏(shi)由(you)于跟火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)親近(jin),成了管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)用火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)的能手。黃(huang)帝就任命他(ta)(ta)(ta)為管(guan)(guan)火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)的火(huo)(huo)(huo)(huo)正官。因(yin)為他(ta)(ta)(ta)熟悉南方的情況,黃(huang)帝又封(feng)他(ta)(ta)(ta)為司徒,主管(guan)(guan)南方事物。他(ta)(ta)(ta)住在衡(heng)山,死后又葬在衡(heng)山。為了紀(ji)念他(ta)(ta)(ta)對人(ren)們的重大貢獻,將衡(heng)山的高峰命名(ming)祝融(rong)(rong)峰。在古(gu)語中(zhong),“祝”是(shi)持久,“融(rong)(rong)”是(shi)光明,讓他(ta)(ta)(ta)永遠光明。
為人祝壽(shou),人們(men)常說“壽(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”,諸多史(shi)料證明了南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)與南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)衡(heng)(heng)山(shan)(shan)的(de)(de)關(guan)系:題(ti)刻(ke)于祝融峰會(hui)仙橋側(ce)有“南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)一境”石(shi)(shi)刻(ke),款署“甲寅東(dong)巴郡汪言臣、王三畏同游此(ci)”;題(ti)刻(ke)于福嚴寺堂(tang)聯二進石(shi)(shi)柱上“福嚴為南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)第一古(gu)剎,般(ban)若是(shi)老(lao)祖不二法門(men)”;清代智犁(li)和(he)尚在《重修廣濟寺記》中曰:“南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)乃天下(xia)五岳(yue)之(zhi)一,世稱(cheng)壽(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)者,即此(ci)岳(yue)也。”;宋代瀟湘子(zi)偶吟曰:“我愛瀟湘境,紅塵隔岸除。南(nan)(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)七十二,惟(wei)喜洞(dong)真墟。”……根據(ju)古(gu)代《周禮》、《春(chun)秋》、《星(xing)經》記載:衡(heng)(heng)山(shan)(shan)位處星(xing)度(du)二十八宿的(de)(de)軫(zhen)(zhen)星(xing)之(zhi)翼(yi),“度(du)應(ying)璣衡(heng)(heng)”,象衡(heng)(heng)器(qi)一樣可以稱(cheng)量(liang)天地的(de)(de)重量(liang),能(neng)“銓(quan)德鈞物”,故(gu)名(ming)衡(heng)(heng)山(shan)(shan)。又因軫(zhen)(zhen)星(xing)旁(pang)有一小(xiao)星(xing),名(ming)叫“長沙星(xing)”,此(ci)星(xing)主管人間蒼生壽(shou)命(ming)(主長壽(shou)、子(zi)孫昌)。自宋徽宗(zong)在南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)留(liu)下(xia)“壽(shou)岳(yue)”石(shi)(shi)刻(ke)和(he)“天下(xia)南(nan)(nan)(nan)岳(yue)”題(ti)詞后,“壽(shou)岳(yue)”之(zhi)名(ming)更稱(cheng)于世。