祝融(rong)峰(feng)位(wei)于湖(hu)南省衡陽市南岳(yue)區的(de)南岳(yue)衡山(shan)(shan),挺拔突起,高(gao)出芙蓉、紫蓋(gai)、天柱、祥光、煙霞(xia)、軫宿諸(zhu)峰(feng)之上,祝融(rong)峰(feng),海拔1300.2米,高(gao)聳云霄,雄峙南天,是(shi)南岳(yue)衡山(shan)(shan)72峰(feng)的(de)主峰(feng)。
南岳諸多景觀中,祝(zhu)融峰(feng)(feng)(feng)之高(gao),方廣寺之深,藏經殿之秀(xiu),水簾(lian)洞之奇,歷來被稱(cheng)為(wei)“四絕”。峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頭花崗巖裸(luo)露地表,黑石嶙峋,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)背巨(ju)崖,壁立千仞(ren);望月臺側(ce),奇石堆疊,聳出十余丈,成為(wei)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂的高(gao)點。峰(feng)(feng)(feng)腰到峰(feng)(feng)(feng)麓,松杉環繞(rao),郁(yu)郁(yu)蔥(cong)蔥(cong),深綠無(wu)際。在峰(feng)(feng)(feng)麓通過喜陽峰(feng)(feng)(feng)的路側(ce),還有(you)一片(pian)常綠闊葉(xie)林(lin),學名“多脈青(qing)岡林(lin)”,綠葉(xie)成陰(yin),碧濤滿耳,經風撲衣,理引人(ren)興起(qi)“五(wu)(wu)(wu)岳獨秀(xiu)”的一種(zhong)感(gan)覺。登祝(zhu)融峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂,極目四望,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)高(gao)眼闊,胸懷無(wu)際。腳下群(qun)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)如浪,綠濤起(qi)伏(fu),湘江如帶,彎曲(qu)成五(wu)(wu)(wu)條白練,遙向祝(zhu)融,俗稱(cheng)“五(wu)(wu)(wu)龍捧圣”。
登(deng)衡山必登(deng)祝融(rong)。古人說:“不(bu)(bu)登(deng)祝融(rong),不(bu)(bu)足以知其高(gao)。”唐代文學(xue)家韓愈詩云:“祝融(rong)萬丈拔地(di)(di)起,欲見(jian)不(bu)(bu)見(jian)青煙里(li)”。兩句(ju)詩形(xing)象的(de)(de)(de)描寫了祝融(rong)峰的(de)(de)(de)高(gao)峻、雄偉(wei),這里(li)不(bu)(bu)僅可(ke)以眺望(wang)到連綿不(bu)(bu)絕的(de)(de)(de)群山,在(zai)無云的(de)(de)(de)夜晚,到這里(li)賞月,別有(you)一番美(mei)景(jing)。游(you)人站在(zai)臺上(shang)欣賞月色,較在(zai)平地(di)(di)上(shang)別有(you)一番景(jing)象。即使月亮西沉,這里(li)也(ye)還(huan)留有(you)它的(de)(de)(de)余輝。正(zheng)如明代孫應鰲的(de)(de)(de)詩所描繪:"人間朗魂已落盡,此地(di)(di)清光猶未(wei)低。"幽妙的(de)(de)(de)情景(jing),可(ke)以想見(jian)了。
祝融峰附近(jin)寺廟林立,景物各有(you)千(qian)秋(qiu)。南岳佛(fo)教的(de)(de)五大叢林,祝融峰下就占了兩座。南面有(you)上(shang)封寺,隋代(dai)以前(qian)叫光天觀,是(shi)道教活(huo)動的(de)(de)地(di)方。隋場帝大業年間,下令(ling)改為上(shang)封寺。沿(yan)上(shang)封寺正前(qian)方走,可見傲然兀(wu)立的(de)(de)石(shi)牌坊,這(zhe)就是(shi)南天門,其石(shi)柱上(shang)刻(ke)有(you)對聯(lian):"門可通天,仰(yang)現碧落星辰近(jin);路承(cheng)絕頂,俯瞰翠微巒(luan)嶼(yu)低!"傳神之(zhi)筆,叫人真想踏上(shang)一(yi)塊白云,隨風(feng)飄去。
上(shang)封字(zi)后的(de)山上(shang)有(you)個(ge)觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai),現(xian)設有(you)氣象臺(tai)。在(zai)觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai)旁邊,有(you)一(yi)(yi)塊石碑(bei),上(shang)面刻有(you)"觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu)處"四個(ge)大(da)字(zi),在(zai)秋高氣爽,特(te)別是(shi)雨后初晴(qing)的(de)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)子(zi)里,游(you)人(ren)可以看到(dao)"一(yi)(yi)輪(lun)紅(hong)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)滾金(jin)球(qiu)"的(de)奇景。為了看日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu),游(you)人(ren)需要先一(yi)(yi)天住(zhu)在(zai)上(shang)封寺的(de)招待(dai)所里,次日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)黎明(ming)前,趕到(dao)觀(guan)日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)臺(tai)。如遇晴(qing)天,則可看到(dao)東方一(yi)(yi)片(pian)灰白的(de)天空,漸(jian)漸(jian)地(di)出(chu)(chu)現(xian)了微微的(de)鮮紅(hong)色,接著一(yi)(yi)道道光芒噴薄(bo)而(er)出(chu)(chu),五彩(cai)繽紛。剎那(nei)間,太陽似乎從(cong)地(di)干線下向上(shang)一(yi)(yi)躍,浮出(chu)(chu)了部分弧形的(de)紅(hong)邊,紅(hong)邊很快變成(cheng)了半邊紅(hong)輪(lun),繼而(er)成(cheng)為一(yi)(yi)個(ge)火紅(hong)的(de)圓球(qiu)。金(jin)輪(lun)涌出(chu)(chu),上(shang)下蕩漾。旭日(ri)(ri)(ri)(ri)冉(ran)冉(ran)升起,曙(shu)光灑(sa)向大(da)地(di),萬物生(sheng)機(ji)勃勃。青(qing)山綠樹(shu),遍披金(jin)色的(de)彩(cai)衣(yi),秀麗萬狀。
由于每天天氣變(bian)化不(bu)同,日出的情景(jing)也千姿百態,各呈異彩,使南(nan)岳(yue)壯觀的日出,更加美(mei)不(bu)勝收(shou)。
祝融殿
祝融(rong)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)有祝融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),原名老(lao)圣帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian),明萬(wan)歷年間(1573—1620)始建(jian)為祠。因山高風(feng)大,所以(yi)建(jian)筑(zhu)是用堅固的(de)花崗巖砌墻,以(yi)鐵瓦蓋的(de)頂(ding)(ding),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇凌(ling)風(feng)傲雪,巍然屹(yi)立在(zai)絕(jue)頂(ding)(ding)巨石(shi)之上。建(jian)筑(zhu)是后(hou)來重新(xin)修建(jian)的(de),殿(dian)(dian)(dian)后(hou)巖石(shi)上裝有石(shi)欄桿,北(bei)山風(feng)光盡(jin)收眼底(di)。
山(shan)頂(ding)(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)清(qing)(qing)乾隆十(shi)(shi)六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1751年(nian)(nian)(nian))下詔重建的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),石(shi)(shi)(shi)墻鐵瓦。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)君這位職掌(zhang)南(nan)(nan)離的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)火正(zheng)宮,經過歷代帝(di)王的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)神(shen)化和加官(guan)進爵,由隋、唐兩代的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“司天王”到(dao)宋(song)朝(chao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)“司天昭(zhao)圣(sheng)帝(di)”,制(zhi)擬帝(di)王,祀以(yi)國(guo)典。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)自清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)乾隆重修后(hou),因(yin)風(feng)霜蝕剝,民國(guo)二十(shi)(shi)一年(nian)(nian)(nian),時任湖南(nan)(nan)省(sheng)主(zhu)席(xi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)何鍵又(you)捐資重修。1982年(nian)(nian)(nian)南(nan)(nan)岳管理(li)局重新翻修,始(shi)成(cheng)為(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面貌。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)高(gao)踞祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding),構筑(zhu)在一個(ge)奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)重壘、風(feng)急(ji)云涌的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)百多(duo)平(ping)(ping)方米(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)頂(ding)(ding)隙里,可(ke)以(yi)想(xiang)見當年(nian)(nian)(nian)建筑(zhu)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)艱辛(xin)。從祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)麓的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)上(shang)封寺到(dao)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),有花(hua)(hua)崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)路層層梯接到(dao)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)底下,石(shi)(shi)(shi)路兩旁,矮松(song)成(cheng)竹,山(shan)花(hua)(hua)爛漫,頗為(wei)潔(jie)致(zhi)。從峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)底腳(jiao)通到(dao)祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)門前(qian)石(shi)(shi)(shi)砌平(ping)(ping)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai),有三十(shi)(shi)多(duo)級陡峻(jun)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)花(hua)(hua)崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)階。山(shan)門是(shi)座牌坊式建筑(zhu),牌坊上(shang)有“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)”三字石(shi)(shi)(shi)額,卻未額為(wei)“祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”。門兩側(ce)有對(dui)(dui)聯:“寅賓出日,峻(jun)極(ji)于天。”前(qian)者(zhe)指清(qing)(qing)晨五到(dao)六(liu)點(dian)時太(tai)陽升起,后(hou)者(zhe)說祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)比天還高(gao)峻(jun)。這副對(dui)(dui)聯的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)句(ju)子集自《詩經》,對(dui)(dui)仗工穩,渾然天成(cheng),又(you)切(qie)合祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)頂(ding)(ding)景(jing)物。祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)右側(ce)走廊(lang)有另一條小門通向望(wang)(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)比祝(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)正(zheng)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)基(ji)約(yue)高(gao)2-3米(mi)(mi),是(shi)花(hua)(hua)崗(gang)巖(yan)風(feng)化后(hou)裸露而(er)成(cheng)。整塊巖(yan)面不(bu)(bu)到(dao)4.5平(ping)(ping)方米(mi)(mi),靠邊處圍上(shang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄,既可(ke)臨風(feng)小坐,也(ye)可(ke)憑石(shi)(shi)(shi)欄桿眺望(wang)(wang)。因(yin)為(wei)它是(shi)較高(gao)點(dian),所以(yi)空景(jing)無(wu)際,山(shan)風(feng)襲人,瀟(xiao)湘帆影,遠近山(shan)巒(luan),盡奔(ben)眼(yan)底。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)原有不(bu)(bu)少石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke),因(yin)為(wei)刻(ke)在臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)面石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang),風(feng)雪(xue)侵蝕,游人摩挲(suo)、踐踏,許(xu)多(duo)已漸磨滅(mie)。現存的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有明朝(chao)嘉靖丁(ding)巳(1577年(nian)(nian)(nian))九月(yue)寶慶知府書刻(ke)“望(wang)(wang)月(yue)壇”三個(ge)約(yue)50厘米(mi)(mi)見方的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)字,鐫刻(ke)在巖(yan)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)內壁上(shang),楷書橫排(pai)。其余在臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)與臺(tai)(tai)(tai)(tai)內外峭壁上(shang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)還清(qing)(qing)晰可(ke)辨的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)有“竣極(ji)”、“仰止處”、“果是(shi)高(gao)”、“青云在望(wang)(wang)”、“青云滿袖”、“山(shan)不(bu)(bu)厭高(gao)”、“覺(jue)夢處”、“千維綠(lv)”、“天外幽賞”、“壽比南(nan)(nan)山(shan)”、“唯我是(shi)高(gao),尊峙寰中(zhong)”等等,大都不(bu)(bu)知是(shi)何年(nian)(nian)(nian)何代刻(ke)品。
望月臺
在(zai)(zai)祝融殿的(de)(de)西邊(bian),有(you)(you)望月(yue)臺,是一(yi)塊(kuai)高聳的(de)(de)巉巖(yan),上(shang)有(you)(you)石刻,字跡清(qing)晰可(ke)辨(bian),月(yue)明(ming)之夜(ye),皓月(yue)臨空(kong),銀(yin)光四射(she),景(jing)色(se)格(ge)外明(ming)麗。游人站在(zai)(zai)臺上(shang),欣賞月(yue)色(se),較在(zai)(zai)平地(di)上(shang)別有(you)(you)一(yi)番景(jing)象。即使月(yue)亮西沉,這里也留有(you)(you)它(ta)的(de)(de)余輝。正如明(ming)代孫(sun)應鰲的(de)(de)詩所(suo)描(miao)繪的(de)(de):“人間朗魄已落盡,此地(di)清(qing)光猶未低。”幽妙的(de)(de)情(qing)景(jing),可(ke)以想見了(le)。
上封寺
祝融(rong)峰附近寺(si)廟林立,其南面有(you)(you)上封(feng)寺(si),隋(sui)代以前叫光(guang)天觀(guan),是(shi)(shi)道教活(huo)動的(de)(de)地方(fang)。隋(sui)煬(yang)帝(di)大(da)業年間(jian)(605—618),下令(ling)改為上封(feng)寺(si)。上封(feng)寺(si)的(de)(de)正前方(fang)是(shi)(shi)南天門。上封(feng)寺(si)后的(de)(de)山上有(you)(you)觀(guan)日臺,現設有(you)(you)氣象臺。在觀(guan)日臺旁邊,有(you)(you)一塊石碑,上面刻有(you)(you)“觀(guan)日出處(chu)”四個(ge)大(da)字(zi),在秋高氣爽,特別是(shi)(shi)雨后初晴的(de)(de)日子(zi)里(li),游人可(ke)以看到“一輪(lun)紅日滾金球(qiu)”的(de)(de)奇景。
雷池
祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰頂還有(you)個特殊景色——雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)。在祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰腰上(shang)封寺(si)側(ce)有(you)個很神秘的地方(fang),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)”。“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)”只是石崖邊一個面積不足4平方(fang)米(mi)(mi),深不到1/3米(mi)(mi)的小石池(chi)(chi)。傳說(shuo)每當峰頂雷(lei)(lei)霆怒發時(shi),這(zhe)個青苔滿(man)壁(bi)的黑黝(you)黝(you)小石池(chi)(chi)上(shang)一定(ding)會金蛇亂(luan)閃,暴(bao)雷(lei)(lei)炸裂,而(er)在池(chi)(chi)畔(pan)另有(you)個小穴(xue),俗稱(cheng)(cheng)“風穴(xue)”,這(zhe)時(shi),也就風煙繚繞,濤聲(sheng)陣陣。宋朝(chao)的陳從古(gu)曾有(you)《登祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)》詩(shi):“上(shang)封峰頭帝(di)所宇,傍有(you)雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)亙今古(gu)。去天五尺銀河通,帝(di)遣雷(lei)(lei)公宰云雨(yu)。我來正值秋雨(yu)時(shi),再拜乞(qi)龍(long)龍(long)勿拒(ju)。快得此雨(yu)洗甲兵,免使中原困(kun)胡虜。”陳從古(gu)這(zhe)首(shou)詩(shi)每字約25厘米(mi)(mi)見(jian)方(fang),隸(li)書豎刻,字在雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)附近通望日臺路(lu)側(ce)石壁(bi)上(shang),從題刻可見(jian)“雷(lei)(lei)池(chi)(chi)”至少鑿于陳從古(gu)之(zhi)前,至今已逾千年,也算一特種文物。
南山摩崖石刻
南(nan)岳有(you)關部(bu)門根據(ju)史籍記載,幾度冒著烈日登山探(tan)尋,終于在南(nan)岳衡山高峰(feng)——祝融峰(feng),找到(dao)了古代“南(nan)山”大(da)型石刻,一展“南(nan)山”芳容。
清光(guang)緒版《南(nan)(nan)岳志》記載,有“壽比南(nan)(nan)山”四字(zi)題刻于南(nan)(nan)岳祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)峰祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)北墻基下舍(she)身崖上(今望月臺附(fu)近(jin)),楷書陰刻,每字(zi)一米(mi)見方。但此(ci)次南(nan)(nan)岳相關(guan)部(bu)門(men)幾度(du)探(tan)尋,只發現“南(nan)(nan)山”二(er)字(zi)。專家分析,“壽比”二(er)字(zi)可能在修葺祝(zhu)(zhu)融(rong)殿(dian)(dian)時壓在殿(dian)(dian)腳下了。
祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)是(shi)根據火(huo)(huo)神(shen)祝(zhu)融(rong)氏的(de)(de)名(ming)字命(ming)名(ming)的(de)(de),相傳祝(zhu)融(rong)氏是(shi)上古(gu)(gu)軒轅黃帝(di)的(de)(de)大臣(chen),是(shi)火(huo)(huo)神(shen),人(ren)類發明鉆木取(qu)火(huo)(huo)后卻不會(hui)(hui)保存火(huo)(huo)種(zhong)和不會(hui)(hui)用火(huo)(huo),祝(zhu)融(rong)氏由于跟(gen)火(huo)(huo)親(qin)近,成了管(guan)火(huo)(huo)用火(huo)(huo)的(de)(de)能(neng)手。黃帝(di)就任命(ming)他(ta)(ta)(ta)為管(guan)火(huo)(huo)的(de)(de)火(huo)(huo)正官。因(yin)為他(ta)(ta)(ta)熟悉南(nan)(nan)方的(de)(de)情況,黃帝(di)又(you)封他(ta)(ta)(ta)為司徒,主管(guan)南(nan)(nan)方事(shi)物。他(ta)(ta)(ta)住在衡山,死后又(you)葬(zang)在衡山。為了紀念他(ta)(ta)(ta)對人(ren)們(men)的(de)(de)重大貢獻,將衡山的(de)(de)高(gao)峰(feng)(feng)命(ming)名(ming)祝(zhu)融(rong)峰(feng)(feng)。在古(gu)(gu)語中,“祝(zhu)”是(shi)持久(jiu),“融(rong)”是(shi)光明,讓他(ta)(ta)(ta)永遠光明。
為(wei)人祝壽(shou)(shou)(shou),人們常說“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)”,諸(zhu)多史料證明(ming)了南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)與南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)衡山(shan)(shan)的關系:題刻于祝融峰會仙橋側有(you)“南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)一(yi)(yi)境”石刻,款署“甲寅(yin)東(dong)巴郡汪言(yan)臣、王三畏(wei)同游此(ci)”;題刻于福(fu)嚴(yan)寺堂(tang)聯二進石柱上“福(fu)嚴(yan)為(wei)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)第(di)一(yi)(yi)古(gu)剎,般若是老祖不二法門”;清代(dai)智犁和尚在(zai)(zai)《重(zhong)修(xiu)廣濟寺記(ji)》中曰(yue):“南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)乃(nai)天下(xia)五岳(yue)(yue)之一(yi)(yi),世(shi)稱壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比(bi)南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)者,即此(ci)岳(yue)(yue)也。”;宋(song)代(dai)瀟湘子偶(ou)吟曰(yue):“我愛(ai)瀟湘境,紅塵隔岸除。南(nan)(nan)山(shan)(shan)七十二,惟喜洞真墟。”……根據古(gu)代(dai)《周(zhou)禮》、《春秋(qiu)》、《星經》記(ji)載:衡山(shan)(shan)位(wei)處星度二十八宿的軫星之翼,“度應璣衡”,象衡器一(yi)(yi)樣可以稱量(liang)天地的重(zhong)量(liang),能“銓德鈞物”,故名衡山(shan)(shan)。又因軫星旁有(you)一(yi)(yi)小星,名叫(jiao)“長沙星”,此(ci)星主(zhu)管人間蒼生壽(shou)(shou)(shou)命(ming)(主(zhu)長壽(shou)(shou)(shou)、子孫昌)。自宋(song)徽宗在(zai)(zai)南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)留下(xia)“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳(yue)(yue)”石刻和“天下(xia)南(nan)(nan)岳(yue)(yue)”題詞(ci)后,“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳(yue)(yue)”之名更稱于世(shi)。