祝融(rong)峰位于湖南(nan)省(sheng)衡(heng)(heng)陽(yang)市(shi)南(nan)岳區的南(nan)岳衡(heng)(heng)山,挺(ting)拔突起,高(gao)出芙蓉、紫蓋、天柱、祥光(guang)、煙(yan)霞、軫宿(su)諸(zhu)峰之(zhi)上,祝融(rong)峰,海(hai)拔1300.2米,高(gao)聳(song)云霄,雄峙南(nan)天,是南(nan)岳衡(heng)(heng)山72峰的主峰。
南岳諸多(duo)景觀中,祝融峰(feng)(feng)(feng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)高(gao)(gao),方廣寺之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)深,藏(zang)經殿之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)秀,水簾洞(dong)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)奇,歷來被稱為“四(si)絕”。峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頭花(hua)崗巖裸露地表,黑石(shi)嶙峋,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)背巨(ju)崖,壁立千(qian)仞;望月臺(tai)側,奇石(shi)堆疊,聳(song)出十余(yu)丈,成為峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂的高(gao)(gao)點(dian)。峰(feng)(feng)(feng)腰到(dao)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)麓(lu),松杉環繞,郁(yu)(yu)郁(yu)(yu)蔥蔥,深綠(lv)無際。在(zai)峰(feng)(feng)(feng)麓(lu)通(tong)過喜陽峰(feng)(feng)(feng)的路側,還(huan)有(you)一(yi)片常綠(lv)闊葉林(lin),學名“多(duo)脈青岡林(lin)”,綠(lv)葉成陰,碧濤(tao)滿(man)耳,經風撲衣,理(li)引人興起“五岳獨秀”的一(yi)種感(gan)覺。登祝融峰(feng)(feng)(feng)頂,極目四(si)望,峰(feng)(feng)(feng)高(gao)(gao)眼闊,胸懷無際。腳下(xia)群峰(feng)(feng)(feng)如(ru)浪(lang),綠(lv)濤(tao)起伏,湘江如(ru)帶(dai),彎曲成五條白練,遙(yao)向祝融,俗稱“五龍捧圣”。
登衡山必登祝(zhu)融(rong)。古(gu)人(ren)說:“不(bu)登祝(zhu)融(rong),不(bu)足以(yi)知其高。”唐(tang)代文學家韓愈詩云:“祝(zhu)融(rong)萬丈拔地起(qi),欲見(jian)不(bu)見(jian)青煙里”。兩句(ju)詩形象的(de)描(miao)寫了祝(zhu)融(rong)峰的(de)高峻、雄(xiong)偉(wei),這里不(bu)僅可以(yi)眺望(wang)到連綿不(bu)絕的(de)群山,在(zai)無云的(de)夜晚,到這里賞(shang)月(yue)(yue),別有(you)一(yi)番(fan)美景(jing)。游人(ren)站在(zai)臺上欣賞(shang)月(yue)(yue)色,較在(zai)平(ping)地上別有(you)一(yi)番(fan)景(jing)象。即使(shi)月(yue)(yue)亮(liang)西沉,這里也還(huan)留有(you)它(ta)的(de)余輝。正如明(ming)代孫應鰲(ao)的(de)詩所描(miao)繪:"人(ren)間朗魂已落盡,此(ci)地清(qing)光猶(you)未低(di)。"幽(you)妙的(de)情(qing)景(jing),可以(yi)想見(jian)了。
祝(zhu)融峰(feng)附(fu)近寺(si)(si)廟林立(li)(li),景物各有千秋。南(nan)岳佛(fo)教的五大(da)叢林,祝(zhu)融峰(feng)下就占了兩座。南(nan)面有上(shang)封寺(si)(si),隋(sui)(sui)代以前叫光天觀,是道教活動的地方。隋(sui)(sui)場帝大(da)業年(nian)間(jian),下令改為上(shang)封寺(si)(si)。沿(yan)上(shang)封寺(si)(si)正前方走,可見(jian)傲(ao)然兀立(li)(li)的石(shi)牌(pai)坊,這(zhe)就是南(nan)天門,其石(shi)柱上(shang)刻有對聯:"門可通天,仰(yang)現碧落星辰近;路承絕(jue)頂,俯瞰(kan)翠微巒嶼低!"傳(chuan)神(shen)之筆,叫人真想(xiang)踏上(shang)一塊白云(yun),隨風飄去。
上封字后的(de)山(shan)上有(you)個觀日(ri)(ri)臺(tai),現設(she)有(you)氣象臺(tai)。在(zai)(zai)觀日(ri)(ri)臺(tai)旁(pang)邊(bian),有(you)一(yi)塊石碑,上面刻有(you)"觀日(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu)處"四個大字,在(zai)(zai)秋(qiu)高(gao)氣爽,特別是雨(yu)后初晴的(de)日(ri)(ri)子里,游(you)人可以看(kan)到(dao)"一(yi)輪(lun)(lun)(lun)紅(hong)(hong)日(ri)(ri)滾金球(qiu)"的(de)奇景。為了(le)看(kan)日(ri)(ri)出(chu)(chu),游(you)人需(xu)要先(xian)一(yi)天(tian)(tian)住在(zai)(zai)上封寺(si)的(de)招(zhao)待(dai)所(suo)里,次(ci)日(ri)(ri)黎明前,趕到(dao)觀日(ri)(ri)臺(tai)。如遇晴天(tian)(tian),則可看(kan)到(dao)東方一(yi)片灰白的(de)天(tian)(tian)空(kong),漸漸地(di)(di)出(chu)(chu)現了(le)微微的(de)鮮(xian)紅(hong)(hong)色(se),接著(zhu)一(yi)道道光(guang)芒(mang)噴薄而出(chu)(chu),五彩繽(bin)紛。剎那間(jian),太陽似乎從地(di)(di)干(gan)線下(xia)向(xiang)上一(yi)躍,浮出(chu)(chu)了(le)部(bu)分弧形的(de)紅(hong)(hong)邊(bian),紅(hong)(hong)邊(bian)很(hen)快變成了(le)半(ban)邊(bian)紅(hong)(hong)輪(lun)(lun)(lun),繼而成為一(yi)個火紅(hong)(hong)的(de)圓球(qiu)。金輪(lun)(lun)(lun)涌出(chu)(chu),上下(xia)蕩漾(yang)。旭(xu)日(ri)(ri)冉冉升起,曙(shu)光(guang)灑(sa)向(xiang)大地(di)(di),萬(wan)物(wu)生機勃(bo)勃(bo)。青山(shan)綠(lv)樹(shu),遍披金色(se)的(de)彩衣,秀麗萬(wan)狀(zhuang)。
由于每(mei)天(tian)天(tian)氣變化不(bu)(bu)同,日出的情景也千姿百態,各呈異(yi)彩,使南(nan)岳壯觀(guan)的日出,更加(jia)美(mei)不(bu)(bu)勝收。
祝融殿
祝融峰頂有(you)祝融殿(dian),原名老圣帝殿(dian),明萬歷年間(1573—1620)始建為祠(ci)。因山高風(feng)(feng)大,所以建筑(zhu)是用堅固的花崗巖(yan)砌墻(qiang),以鐵瓦蓋的頂,殿(dian)宇凌風(feng)(feng)傲雪(xue),巍然(ran)屹立在(zai)絕頂巨石之上。建筑(zhu)是后來重新修建的,殿(dian)后巖(yan)石上裝有(you)石欄(lan)桿,北山風(feng)(feng)光盡(jin)收眼底。
山(shan)(shan)頂(ding)的(de)(de)祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)是(shi)清(qing)(qing)乾隆十(shi)(shi)六年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(1751年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))下(xia)詔(zhao)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)建(jian)的(de)(de),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)墻鐵瓦。祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)君(jun)這(zhe)位職掌南(nan)離的(de)(de)火(huo)正宮,經過(guo)歷代(dai)帝王(wang)的(de)(de)神化和加官進爵,由隋、唐兩代(dai)的(de)(de)“司(si)天王(wang)”到(dao)(dao)宋(song)朝(chao)的(de)(de)“司(si)天昭圣帝”,制擬帝王(wang),祀(si)以國典。祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)自清(qing)(qing)朝(chao)乾隆重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修后,因風霜(shuang)蝕剝,民國二十(shi)(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian),時(shi)任(ren)湖南(nan)省(sheng)主席(xi)的(de)(de)何鍵(jian)又捐資重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)修。1982年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)南(nan)岳(yue)管(guan)理局重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)新翻修,始成(cheng)(cheng)為的(de)(de)面貌。祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)高(gao)(gao)(gao)踞祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding),構筑(zhu)(zhu)在(zai)(zai)一(yi)個奇石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)重(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)壘、風急云涌(yong)的(de)(de)百(bai)多平(ping)(ping)方米的(de)(de)頂(ding)隙里,可(ke)以想見(jian)當年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)的(de)(de)艱辛。從祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)麓的(de)(de)上(shang)(shang)封寺到(dao)(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)的(de)(de)祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian),有花崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路(lu)層層梯接到(dao)(dao)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)底下(xia),石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)路(lu)兩旁,矮松成(cheng)(cheng)竹,山(shan)(shan)花爛漫,頗為潔致。從峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)底腳通到(dao)(dao)祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)山(shan)(shan)門前石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)砌平(ping)(ping)臺(tai)(tai),有三十(shi)(shi)多級陡峻(jun)的(de)(de)花崗(gang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)臺(tai)(tai)階。山(shan)(shan)門是(shi)座牌(pai)坊(fang)式建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu),牌(pai)坊(fang)上(shang)(shang)有“祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)”三字(zi)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)額(e),卻未額(e)為“祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)”。門兩側有對(dui)聯:“寅賓出日,峻(jun)極(ji)于天。”前者(zhe)(zhe)指清(qing)(qing)晨五到(dao)(dao)六點(dian)時(shi)太陽升起,后者(zhe)(zhe)說(shuo)祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)比天還(huan)高(gao)(gao)(gao)峻(jun)。這(zhe)副(fu)對(dui)聯的(de)(de)句子集自《詩經》,對(dui)仗工穩,渾然天成(cheng)(cheng),又切合祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)峰(feng)(feng)頂(ding)景物(wu)。祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)右側走(zou)廊有另一(yi)條小門通向望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)(tai)。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)(tai)比祝融(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)正殿(dian)(dian)(dian)基(ji)約高(gao)(gao)(gao)2-3米,是(shi)花崗(gang)巖(yan)風化后裸露而成(cheng)(cheng)。整塊巖(yan)面不(bu)到(dao)(dao)4.5平(ping)(ping)方米,靠邊處(chu)圍上(shang)(shang)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄,既可(ke)臨風小坐,也可(ke)憑(ping)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)欄桿眺望(wang)(wang)。因為它是(shi)較高(gao)(gao)(gao)點(dian),所(suo)以空景無(wu)際,山(shan)(shan)風襲人,瀟湘帆影,遠近山(shan)(shan)巒(luan),盡(jin)奔眼(yan)底。望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)臺(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)原有不(bu)少石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke),因為刻(ke)(ke)在(zai)(zai)臺(tai)(tai)面石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang),風雪侵(qin)蝕,游(you)人摩挲、踐踏,許多已漸磨滅。現存的(de)(de)有明(ming)朝(chao)嘉靖丁巳(1577年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))九(jiu)月(yue)(yue)寶慶知(zhi)府書(shu)(shu)刻(ke)(ke)“望(wang)(wang)月(yue)(yue)壇”三個約50厘(li)米見(jian)方的(de)(de)字(zi),鐫刻(ke)(ke)在(zai)(zai)巖(yan)的(de)(de)內壁(bi)上(shang)(shang),楷書(shu)(shu)橫排(pai)。其余在(zai)(zai)臺(tai)(tai)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)上(shang)(shang)與(yu)臺(tai)(tai)內外(wai)峭壁(bi)上(shang)(shang)的(de)(de)石(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)刻(ke)(ke)還(huan)清(qing)(qing)晰(xi)可(ke)辨的(de)(de)有“竣極(ji)”、“仰止處(chu)”、“果是(shi)高(gao)(gao)(gao)”、“青(qing)云在(zai)(zai)望(wang)(wang)”、“青(qing)云滿袖”、“山(shan)(shan)不(bu)厭高(gao)(gao)(gao)”、“覺夢處(chu)”、“千(qian)維綠”、“天外(wai)幽賞(shang)”、“壽比南(nan)山(shan)(shan)”、“唯我是(shi)高(gao)(gao)(gao),尊峙寰中”等等,大都不(bu)知(zhi)是(shi)何年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)何代(dai)刻(ke)(ke)品。
望月臺
在(zai)祝融殿的(de)西邊(bian),有望月臺,是一(yi)塊高聳(song)的(de)巉巖,上(shang)有石刻,字跡清(qing)晰可(ke)(ke)辨,月明之夜(ye),皓月臨空,銀光四射,景色格外明麗。游人站在(zai)臺上(shang),欣賞(shang)月色,較(jiao)在(zai)平地(di)(di)上(shang)別有一(yi)番景象。即使(shi)月亮西沉,這里也留有它的(de)余(yu)輝(hui)。正如明代(dai)孫應鰲的(de)詩所(suo)描繪的(de):“人間朗魄(po)已落盡(jin),此地(di)(di)清(qing)光猶未低。”幽妙(miao)的(de)情景,可(ke)(ke)以想見了。
上封寺
祝(zhu)融峰附近寺(si)廟(miao)林立,其南(nan)面(mian)有(you)上(shang)封寺(si),隋(sui)代(dai)以(yi)前(qian)叫光天(tian)觀(guan),是(shi)道教活動(dong)的(de)(de)地方(fang)。隋(sui)煬帝(di)大業年間(605—618),下令改為上(shang)封寺(si)。上(shang)封寺(si)的(de)(de)正前(qian)方(fang)是(shi)南(nan)天(tian)門。上(shang)封寺(si)后(hou)的(de)(de)山上(shang)有(you)觀(guan)日(ri)臺,現設(she)有(you)氣象臺。在觀(guan)日(ri)臺旁邊,有(you)一塊石碑,上(shang)面(mian)刻有(you)“觀(guan)日(ri)出處”四個大字(zi),在秋高(gao)氣爽,特別是(shi)雨后(hou)初晴的(de)(de)日(ri)子里,游人可以(yi)看到“一輪紅日(ri)滾金(jin)球”的(de)(de)奇景。
雷池
祝融(rong)峰(feng)頂還有(you)(you)個(ge)(ge)特(te)殊景(jing)色——雷(lei)池(chi)。在祝融(rong)峰(feng)腰上(shang)(shang)封寺側(ce)有(you)(you)個(ge)(ge)很神秘的地方(fang),俗(su)稱(cheng)“雷(lei)池(chi)”。“雷(lei)池(chi)”只是石(shi)(shi)(shi)崖邊一個(ge)(ge)面積不(bu)(bu)足4平(ping)方(fang)米,深不(bu)(bu)到1/3米的小石(shi)(shi)(shi)池(chi)。傳說每當峰(feng)頂雷(lei)霆怒發時(shi),這(zhe)個(ge)(ge)青(qing)苔滿壁的黑黝黝小石(shi)(shi)(shi)池(chi)上(shang)(shang)一定會金蛇(she)亂閃(shan),暴雷(lei)炸裂,而在池(chi)畔另有(you)(you)個(ge)(ge)小穴(xue),俗(su)稱(cheng)“風(feng)穴(xue)”,這(zhe)時(shi),也就(jiu)風(feng)煙繚繞,濤聲陣陣。宋朝的陳(chen)從(cong)(cong)古(gu)曾有(you)(you)《登祝融(rong)峰(feng)雷(lei)池(chi)》詩:“上(shang)(shang)封峰(feng)頭帝所宇(yu),傍有(you)(you)雷(lei)池(chi)亙今(jin)(jin)古(gu)。去天五尺銀河通(tong),帝遣雷(lei)公(gong)宰云雨。我來正值(zhi)秋(qiu)雨時(shi),再拜乞龍(long)(long)龍(long)(long)勿拒(ju)。快(kuai)得此雨洗(xi)甲兵,免使中原(yuan)困胡虜。”陳(chen)從(cong)(cong)古(gu)這(zhe)首詩每字約25厘米見方(fang),隸(li)書(shu)豎刻,字在雷(lei)池(chi)附近通(tong)望日臺路(lu)側(ce)石(shi)(shi)(shi)壁上(shang)(shang),從(cong)(cong)題(ti)刻可(ke)見“雷(lei)池(chi)”至(zhi)(zhi)少鑿于(yu)陳(chen)從(cong)(cong)古(gu)之前,至(zhi)(zhi)今(jin)(jin)已逾千年,也算一特(te)種文物。
南山摩崖石刻
南岳有關部(bu)門(men)根據史(shi)籍記載,幾度(du)冒著烈日登(deng)山(shan)探尋,終(zhong)于在南岳衡山(shan)高峰——祝融峰,找到了古代(dai)“南山(shan)”大型(xing)石刻,一(yi)展“南山(shan)”芳容。
清光緒版《南(nan)岳志》記載,有“壽比(bi)南(nan)山”四字題刻于南(nan)岳祝融峰祝融殿(dian)(dian)北墻基下(xia)舍身崖上(今望(wang)月臺(tai)附(fu)近),楷書陰刻,每字一米見方。但(dan)此(ci)次南(nan)岳相關部門幾度探(tan)尋,只發現“南(nan)山”二字。專家分析(xi),“壽比(bi)”二字可能在修葺(qi)祝融殿(dian)(dian)時壓在殿(dian)(dian)腳下(xia)了。
祝融(rong)(rong)峰是(shi)(shi)根據(ju)火(huo)神(shen)祝融(rong)(rong)氏的(de)名字命名的(de),相傳祝融(rong)(rong)氏是(shi)(shi)上(shang)古軒轅黃(huang)帝的(de)大臣(chen),是(shi)(shi)火(huo)神(shen),人類發明(ming)鉆木取火(huo)后卻不會(hui)保存火(huo)種和不會(hui)用火(huo),祝融(rong)(rong)氏由于跟火(huo)親近,成了(le)管(guan)火(huo)用火(huo)的(de)能手。黃(huang)帝就任命他為(wei)管(guan)火(huo)的(de)火(huo)正官。因為(wei)他熟悉南方(fang)(fang)的(de)情況,黃(huang)帝又封他為(wei)司徒(tu),主管(guan)南方(fang)(fang)事物。他住在(zai)衡山(shan),死后又葬在(zai)衡山(shan)。為(wei)了(le)紀念他對人們的(de)重(zhong)大貢(gong)獻,將衡山(shan)的(de)高峰命名祝融(rong)(rong)峰。在(zai)古語中,“祝”是(shi)(shi)持久,“融(rong)(rong)”是(shi)(shi)光明(ming),讓他永(yong)遠光明(ming)。
為(wei)人祝壽(shou)(shou)(shou),人們常說“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比南(nan)山”,諸多(duo)史料證明了南(nan)山與南(nan)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)衡(heng)山的關系:題刻(ke)于(yu)祝融峰會(hui)仙橋側有(you)(you)“南(nan)山一境”石(shi)刻(ke),款署“甲寅東(dong)巴郡汪言臣、王三畏同(tong)游(you)此”;題刻(ke)于(yu)福嚴(yan)寺堂聯二進石(shi)柱(zhu)上“福嚴(yan)為(wei)南(nan)山第一古剎,般若是老祖不二法門”;清代(dai)(dai)智犁和(he)尚在(zai)《重修廣濟寺記》中曰(yue):“南(nan)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)乃天(tian)下(xia)五岳(yue)(yue)(yue)之一,世稱(cheng)壽(shou)(shou)(shou)比南(nan)山者(zhe),即(ji)此岳(yue)(yue)(yue)也(ye)。”;宋(song)代(dai)(dai)瀟(xiao)(xiao)湘(xiang)子(zi)偶吟曰(yue):“我愛(ai)瀟(xiao)(xiao)湘(xiang)境,紅塵隔岸(an)除。南(nan)山七十二,惟喜洞(dong)真墟(xu)。”……根(gen)據古代(dai)(dai)《周禮》、《春秋》、《星(xing)(xing)經》記載:衡(heng)山位處星(xing)(xing)度二十八宿的軫星(xing)(xing)之翼,“度應璣衡(heng)”,象(xiang)衡(heng)器一樣可以稱(cheng)量天(tian)地(di)的重量,能(neng)“銓德鈞物(wu)”,故名衡(heng)山。又因軫星(xing)(xing)旁有(you)(you)一小星(xing)(xing),名叫“長沙星(xing)(xing)”,此星(xing)(xing)主(zhu)管人間蒼生壽(shou)(shou)(shou)命(主(zhu)長壽(shou)(shou)(shou)、子(zi)孫昌)。自宋(song)徽宗在(zai)南(nan)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)留下(xia)“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)”石(shi)刻(ke)和(he)“天(tian)下(xia)南(nan)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)”題詞后,“壽(shou)(shou)(shou)岳(yue)(yue)(yue)”之名更稱(cheng)于(yu)世。