簡介
提到包(bao)(bao)子,長沙人必稱(cheng)“德(de)(de)園”。德(de)(de)園始建(jian)于清光緒年間,初為一(yi)譚姓業主(譚盛(sheng)德(de)(de))在八角亭附近(jin)開的一(yi)家(jia)夫妻(qi)店,取《左傳》中“有(you)德(de)(de)則樂(le),樂(le)則能久(jiu)”之(zhi)意,名(ming)之(zhi)“德(de)(de)園”。民國初年,幾(ji)位失業官廚集資(zi)入伙(huo),盤下幾(ji)經易手卻無(wu)建(jian)樹(shu)的德(de)(de)園,遷店于黃興路(lu)樊西巷(xiang)口,以官府(fu)菜(cai)(cai)、點(dian)(dian)招徠食客。因菜(cai)(cai)肴制作總有(you)海味鮮(xian)貨(huo)等(deng)上乘余(yu)料留下,為免浪(lang)費,故將(jiang)其(qi)剁碎,拌人包(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian)餡芯,誰知這競使他們的包(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian)風味異人,倍受(shou)垂青。從此(ci),德(de)(de)園包(bao)(bao)子大振名(ming)聲,遂有(you)“出籠熱噴噴,白(bai)(bai)色皮喧松,玫(mei)瑰甜香美,香菇(gu)爽鮮(xian)嫩”的民謠之(zhi)贊。長沙“文(wen)夕”大火(huo)后,原班部分(fen)師傅重(zhong)新(xin)集資(zi),再(zai)度建(jian)店,取名(ming)德(de)(de)園茶(cha)館(guan),繼(ji)續經營(ying)飯菜(cai)(cai)、包(bao)(bao)點(dian)(dian),并逐步形(xing)(xing)成(cheng)馳名(ming)長沙的“八大名(ming)包(bao)(bao)”。“八大名(ming)包(bao)(bao)”為:玫(mei)瑰白(bai)(bai)糖包(bao)(bao)、冬菇(gu)鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)、白(bai)(bai)糖鹽菜(cai)(cai)包(bao)(bao)、水晶(jing)白(bai)(bai)糖包(bao)(bao)、麻(ma)茸包(bao)(bao)、金鉤鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)、瑤柱鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)、叉(cha)燒包(bao)(bao)。長沙解放后,德(de)(de)園茶(cha)館(guan)獲得(de)了新(xin)生,曾薈(hui)萃一(yi)批(pi)烹任名(ming)師和白(bai)(bai)案高手,使德(de)(de)園的美食形(xing)(xing)成(cheng)五大系列,300個品(pin)種。
民謠
老長沙都知道這么一(yi)首民謠:“楊(yang)裕(yu)興(xing)的面,徐長興(xing)的鴨,德(de)園的包子(zi)真好呷。”百年(nian)老店德(de)園位于長沙的繁(fan)華地帶,每天(tian)早(zao)上,買包子(zi)的人(ren)排成長龍,在店門前延(yan)伸折(zhe)曲,也算是長沙街(jie)頭一(yi)景。