簡介
提到包(bao)(bao)子,長(chang)沙人(ren)必稱“德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)”。德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)始建(jian)于(yu)清光緒年間,初為(wei)一(yi)譚姓業主(譚盛德)在八角(jiao)亭附近開的(de)(de)一(yi)家夫妻店(dian)(dian),取(qu)《左傳》中“有(you)(you)德則樂,樂則能久(jiu)”之意,名(ming)(ming)之“德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)”。民(min)國初年,幾(ji)位失業官廚集資入伙,盤(pan)下幾(ji)經(jing)易手(shou)卻無建(jian)樹的(de)(de)德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan),遷店(dian)(dian)于(yu)黃興路樊西巷口,以官府菜(cai)、點(dian)招徠食客。因菜(cai)肴制作總(zong)有(you)(you)海味鮮(xian)貨等上乘余(yu)料留下,為(wei)免(mian)浪費(fei),故將其剁碎,拌人(ren)包(bao)(bao)點(dian)餡芯,誰知這(zhe)競使(shi)他們的(de)(de)包(bao)(bao)點(dian)風味異(yi)人(ren),倍受垂青。從此,德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)包(bao)(bao)子大(da)(da)振名(ming)(ming)聲,遂(sui)有(you)(you)“出籠熱噴(pen)噴(pen),白(bai)色(se)皮喧(xuan)松,玫(mei)瑰甜(tian)香美,香菇爽鮮(xian)嫩(nen)”的(de)(de)民(min)謠之贊(zan)。長(chang)沙“文夕”大(da)(da)火后(hou),原班部分師傅重新集資,再度建(jian)店(dian)(dian),取(qu)名(ming)(ming)德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)茶館,繼續經(jing)營飯菜(cai)、包(bao)(bao)點(dian),并逐步形(xing)(xing)成馳名(ming)(ming)長(chang)沙的(de)(de)“八大(da)(da)名(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)”。“八大(da)(da)名(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)”為(wei):玫(mei)瑰白(bai)糖(tang)包(bao)(bao)、冬菇鮮(xian)肉包(bao)(bao)、白(bai)糖(tang)鹽(yan)菜(cai)包(bao)(bao)、水晶白(bai)糖(tang)包(bao)(bao)、麻(ma)茸包(bao)(bao)、金鉤鮮(xian)肉包(bao)(bao)、瑤柱(zhu)鮮(xian)肉包(bao)(bao)、叉燒包(bao)(bao)。長(chang)沙解放后(hou),德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)茶館獲(huo)得了新生,曾(ceng)薈萃一(yi)批烹任名(ming)(ming)師和白(bai)案(an)高(gao)手(shou),使(shi)德園(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)的(de)(de)美食形(xing)(xing)成五大(da)(da)系列,300個品種。
民謠
老(lao)長(chang)沙都知(zhi)道這么一(yi)首(shou)民(min)謠:“楊裕興的(de)面,徐長(chang)興的(de)鴨(ya),德園(yuan)的(de)包(bao)子(zi)(zi)真好呷。”百年老(lao)店德園(yuan)位于(yu)長(chang)沙的(de)繁華(hua)地帶(dai),每天早(zao)上,買包(bao)子(zi)(zi)的(de)人(ren)排成(cheng)長(chang)龍,在店門前延伸折曲(qu),也算是長(chang)沙街頭一(yi)景。