簡介
提到包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子,長(chang)沙人(ren)必(bi)稱“德園(yuan)(yuan)”。德園(yuan)(yuan)始(shi)建(jian)于(yu)清光緒年間(jian),初為一(yi)譚(tan)姓業主(譚(tan)盛德)在八(ba)(ba)角亭附近開的一(yi)家夫妻店,取(qu)《左傳》中(zhong)“有(you)德則(ze)樂,樂則(ze)能久”之意(yi),名(ming)(ming)之“德園(yuan)(yuan)”。民國初年,幾位失業官廚集(ji)資(zi)入伙,盤下幾經易手(shou)卻無建(jian)樹(shu)的德園(yuan)(yuan),遷(qian)店于(yu)黃(huang)興路樊西(xi)巷口,以官府(fu)菜、點(dian)招徠(lai)食客(ke)。因菜肴制(zhi)作總(zong)有(you)海味鮮(xian)貨(huo)等上(shang)乘余料(liao)留下,為免浪費,故將其剁碎(sui),拌人(ren)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian)餡(xian)芯,誰知這(zhe)競使他們(men)的包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian)風味異(yi)人(ren),倍受垂青。從此,德園(yuan)(yuan)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)子大(da)振名(ming)(ming)聲,遂有(you)“出籠熱噴噴,白色皮喧松,玫(mei)瑰甜香美,香菇(gu)爽鮮(xian)嫩”的民謠之贊。長(chang)沙“文夕”大(da)火后(hou),原(yuan)班部分師傅重新(xin)集(ji)資(zi),再度(du)建(jian)店,取(qu)名(ming)(ming)德園(yuan)(yuan)茶館,繼續經營飯菜、包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)點(dian),并逐步(bu)形成馳(chi)名(ming)(ming)長(chang)沙的“八(ba)(ba)大(da)名(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)”。“八(ba)(ba)大(da)名(ming)(ming)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)”為:玫(mei)瑰白糖(tang)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、冬菇(gu)鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、白糖(tang)鹽菜包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、水晶白糖(tang)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、麻茸包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、金鉤鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、瑤柱(zhu)鮮(xian)肉(rou)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)、叉(cha)燒(shao)包(bao)(bao)(bao)(bao)。長(chang)沙解放后(hou),德園(yuan)(yuan)茶館獲得(de)了新(xin)生,曾(ceng)薈萃一(yi)批烹任名(ming)(ming)師和白案(an)高(gao)手(shou),使德園(yuan)(yuan)的美食形成五大(da)系列,300個品種。
民謠
老長(chang)沙都知(zhi)道這么一首民謠:“楊裕興(xing)的面,徐長(chang)興(xing)的鴨,德園(yuan)的包子(zi)真(zhen)好呷。”百年老店德園(yuan)位于長(chang)沙的繁華地帶,每天(tian)早上,買包子(zi)的人(ren)排成長(chang)龍,在店門前延伸折(zhe)曲,也算是長(chang)沙街頭一景。