做法
別(bie)(bie)以為(wei)煮(zhu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)加上牛肉片就是牛肉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)了。蘭州牛肉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)精致與(yu)吃法考究(jiu)令人瞠目。別(bie)(bie)看拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)師(shi)傅(fu)操起(qi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)節,一搓一拉(la),連抻(chen)數次(ci),即變戲法似地拉(la)繞出(chu)一碗細(xi)長的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao),看起(qi)來似乎(hu)容易,其實做面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)工序(xu)相當復(fu)雜。"蓬灰和(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)成線,苦(ku)練(lian)技巧最關(guan)鍵(jian)"。首(shou)先(xian)(xian)是選用富含面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)筋,韌性(xing)強的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)優質精粉,以蘭州當地的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)草(cao)木燒制(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)蓬灰和(he)成軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。往(wang)往(wang)在前一天,由膀圓力大的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)小伙子(zi)先(xian)(xian)將大團(tuan)軟面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)反復(fu)搗、揉(rou)、抻(chen)、拉(la)、摔、摜后,捋成長條(tiao),揪成茶杯粗、筷子(zi)長的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)一條(tiao)條(tiao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)節,然后隨食(shi)客的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)愛好,拉(la)出(chu)大小粗細(xi)不同的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao),喜(xi)食(shi)圓面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),可(ke)以選擇粗、二細(xi)、三細(xi)、細(xi)、毛(mao)細(xi)5種(zhong)款(kuan)式(shi);喜(xi)食(shi)扁面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),可(ke)以選擇大寬、寬、韭葉3種(zhong)款(kuan)式(shi);想(xiang)吃出(chu)個棱角分明的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de),拉(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)師(shi)傅(fu)會為(wei)你拉(la)一碗特別(bie)(bie)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)"蕎麥楞(leng)"。
拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)是(shi)一手(shou)絕活(huo),一個(ge)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)節正(zheng)好拉(la)(la)一大(da)(da)碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),每拉(la)(la)一下(xia)(xia),要在手(shou)腕上回折一次(ci),拉(la)(la)到(dao)最后,雙手(shou)上下(xia)(xia)抖動(dong)幾次(ci),則(ze)(ze)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條(tiao)柔韌綿長(chang),粗細(xi)均勻。觀看拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)好像是(shi)欣賞雜技表演(yan),拉(la)(la)到(dao)最后時(shi)的"一拉(la)(la)一閃"又(you)仿(fang)佛是(shi)舞(wu)蹈演(yan)員在揮舞(wu)著彩帶。 牛(niu)肉拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的優(you)劣取決于(yu)清(qing)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)。蘭州人吃(chi)牛(niu)肉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),先(xian)喝一口湯(tang)(tang)(tang),便知是(shi)不是(shi)地道。熬(ao)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)時(shi)常選用草原上出產的肥嫩(nen)牦牛(niu)肉或黃牛(niu)肉,加(jia)大(da)(da)塊牛(niu)頭骨和(he)腿骨,再按比例加(jia)入(ru)牛(niu)肝(gan)湯(tang)(tang)(tang)和(he)雞湯(tang)(tang)(tang),在特大(da)(da)罐形(xing)鐵鍋內熬(ao)成即可,則(ze)(ze)肉湯(tang)(tang)(tang)氣香味濃,清(qing)亮(liang)澄(cheng)澈。食用時(shi)只選用清(qing)湯(tang)(tang)(tang),加(jia)入(ru)清(qing)煮蘿(luo)卜片和(he)調味料。煮熟(shu)的拉(la)(la)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)澆上蘿(luo)卜清(qing)湯(tang)(tang)(tang),佐以牛(niu)肉丁(或片)、香菜和(he)蒜苗(miao),調入(ru)紅亮(liang)的辣椒油即可食用。
特點
蘭(lan)州清(qing)湯(tang)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)有"一(yi)清(qing)、二白(bai)、三(san)紅(hong)、四(si)綠(lv)(lv)、五(wu)(wu)黃"五(wu)(wu)大特點(dian)。即牛肉(rou)(rou)湯(tang)色清(qing)氣香;蘿(luo)卜(bu)片潔白(bai)純凈;辣椒油鮮紅(hong)漂浮;香菜、蒜苗(miao)新(xin)鮮翠綠(lv)(lv);面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條則柔滑透黃。蘭(lan)州人似乎對醋(cu)特別(bie)偏愛,端來一(yi)碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),先操起大腹醋(cu)壺。調入(ru)一(yi)股香醋(cu),仿佛只(zhi)有這樣(yang)(yang)才能吃(chi)出牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)酸辣清(qing)香。吃(chi)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)往往要(yao)超出平常的(de)(de)食(shi)(shi)量,一(yi)碗面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)直吃(chi)得發梢冒汗,還要(yao)將(jiang)酸辣的(de)(de)清(qing)湯(tang)喝個精光。如(ru)此(ci)美味,實在不忍浪(lang)費。不過,忌食(shi)(shi)酸辣的(de)(de)食(shi)(shi)客(ke)恐怕難(nan)以品嘗到牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)酸辣清(qing)香。 在蘭(lan)州街(jie)頭的(de)(de)任何一(yi)家牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館,都(dou)可吃(chi)到地道的(de)(de)清(qing)湯(tang)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。因(yin)此(ci),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館的(de)(de)招牌上大多沒有打(da)出"正宗"字樣(yang)(yang)。
吃面
蘭(lan)州人吃(chi)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian),多半(ban)不太(tai)講究斯(si)文(wen),就地一(yi)蹲,唏溜溜一(yi)碗(wan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)即刻下肚。不過。同是拉面(mian)(mian)(mian),在平涼(liang)路(lu)的(de)(de)金(jin)鼎牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan)和翡翠樓,張掖路(lu)的(de)(de)民族餐廳等(deng)餐館(guan)內,就能(neng)吃(chi)出(chu)個(ge)飲食(shi)文(wen)化來。面(mian)(mian)(mian)條并無特別,關鍵在于環境的(de)(de)幽(you)雅和套菜(cai)的(de)(de)精(jing)美。一(yi)般分(fen)(fen)5元(yuan)、8元(yuan)、10元(yuan)、18元(yuan)不等(deng)。據說有(you)些已在大(da)半(ban)個(ge)中國有(you)了連(lian)鎖店,名聲不小。 要(yao)在中國找一(yi)家沒有(you)蘭(lan)州風味牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan)的(de)(de)城市(shi),難。不過,牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)一(yi)走(zou)出(chu)蘭(lan)州就變(bian)了味兒,別看都打出(chu)了"正(zheng)宗(zong)"的(de)(de)招(zhao)牌,但(dan)要(yao)吃(chi)到(dao)(dao)真正(zheng)正(zheng)宗(zong)的(de)(de)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian),恐怕并不容易。 游(you)客到(dao)(dao)蘭(lan)州值得一(yi)嘗清湯牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)酸(suan)辣(la)美味。只要(yao)是食(shi)客如云(yun)的(de)(de)街(jie)頭(tou)牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)館(guan),其味必定絕佳。 大(da)眾牛肉(rou)(rou)面(mian)(mian)(mian)每大(da)碗(wan)只收1.70元(yuan)錢,相當便宜。不到(dao)(dao)兩分(fen)(fen)鐘即能(neng)做好一(yi)碗(wan)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian),非常節約時間。