總溪(xi)河(he),發源于赫章(zhang),流經(jing)畢(bi)節七星關和(he)納(na)雍(yong),下游(you)接(jie)六沖河(he)入(ru)烏江。在納(na)雍(yong)縣城東(dong)北面維新(xin)鎮、厙(she)東(dong)關鄉、董地鄉境(jing)內。從總溪(xi)河(he)大橋(qiao)(萬壽橋(qiao))至下游(you)一段,長(chang)十二公里,水(shui)面寬(kuan)三四(si)十米(mi),水(shui)深二三米(mi)。
河道蜿蜒曲折,水流有時平穩如鏡,有時波浪排空。兩岸青山對峙,峭壁入云,猴鳴鳥啼,飛瀑鳴響,洞穴成群。乘船而下,宛若置身雄奇的三峽和秀麗的漓江。 總溪河原名“總機河”,因水西安氏四(si)十八目之一(yi)的(de)總(zong)(zong)機(ji)安文(wen)思居住于此(ci)得名。后稱“總(zong)(zong)溪”, 意(yi)為眾(zhong)流(liu)成涇。兩(liang)岸有(you)(you)銀(yin)灣子(zi)、五簸浪、一(yi)線(xian)天、觀(guan)猴巖、石龍、三級飛瀑、段家灣口等景點。清代汪炳瑟璈泛舟河(he)上(shang),有(you)(you)《題總(zong)(zong)機(ji)河(he)》詩:“漫漫河(he)水路回(hui)旋,河(he)流(liu)總(zong)(zong)機(ji)浪接天。百里流(liu)來千里會(hui),一(yi)波折去萬波連。浮沉野鶩(mu)穿新漲,欸(e^)乃漁(yu)郎(lang)泛小船。翹(qiao)首巖扇(shan)絕險處,石橋(qiao)洞口鎖晴川。” 萬壽橋(qiao)是畢(bi)節(jie)、納雍公路的(de)要津。橋(qiao)長六十米(mi)(mi)(mi),寬八點五米(mi)(mi)(mi),高二十五米(mi)(mi)(mi),架兩(liang)山間。建于清道光十九年(公元1839年),橋(qiao)頭立(li)有(you)(you)兩(liang)塊(kuai)石碑,
記載造橋始(shi)末(mo)。“總(zong)己河原(yuan)有渡(du)船,每遇水(shui)(shui)泛之期”,“對河兩岸(an)(an)苦(ku)守水(shui)(shui)退,方能(neng)開渡(du),因(yin)此舉(ju)念修造石橋”。 沿河兩岸(an)(an)大小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)穴數十(shi)(shi)個(ge)。有的(de)(de)高居山(shan)頂,橫臥絕(jue)壁:有的(de)(de)半潛(qian)(qian)入(ru)水(shui)(shui),輕(qing)披晶簾(lian)。“宣(xuan)慰(wei)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)”在(zai)(zai)大橋下游(you)五公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)左岸(an)(an)絕(jue)壁上,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口距水(shui)(shui)面(mian)一百五六十(shi)(shi)米。周(zhou)圍林木茂盛,空(kong)谷傳響。相(xiang)傳清康(kang)熙三(san)年(公(gong)元1664年)吳三(san)桂征(zheng)水(shui)(shui)西,貴州宣(xuan)慰(wei)使安坤率部據洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)扼守,數日(ri)不出(chu),因(yin)此得名(ming)。今(jin)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)所(suo)在(zai)(zai)附(fu)近,有奢香驛(yi)道遺(yi)跡(ji)。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深四(si)公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),有一條主巷道,十(shi)(shi)來條分道。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中有洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)相(xiang)連(lian)。橋下游(you)十(shi)(shi)公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)彭家洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深四(si)公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),鐘乳石倒懸,如群龍飛舞。山(shan)山(shan)嶺(ling)嶺(ling)被(bei)森(sen)林覆蓋(gai),面(mian)積達七萬多(duo)(duo)畝,出(chu)產聞名(ming)的(de)(de)“納(na)(na)(na)墨(mo)玉”。 總(zong)溪河流(liu)經(jing)約(yue)十(shi)(shi)二(er)公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)后,進入(ru)溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)成(cheng)為伏流(liu),在(zai)(zai)地下潛(qian)(qian)流(liu)二(er)點五公(gong)里(li)(li)(li)。地表是(shi)險峻(jun)的(de)(de)梯(ti)子(zi)巖,為納(na)(na)(na)雍與(yu)大方交界處(chu),危峰(feng)突兀,壁如刀切,十(shi)(shi)分險要。1935年4月,紅九(jiu)軍團(tuan)長(chang)征(zheng)時在(zai)(zai)大方貓場被(bei)國民黨軍隊及地萬武裝包圍,在(zai)(zai)軍團(tuan)長(chang)羅炳輝、政委何(he)長(chang)工指(zhi)揮下,突破重圍,翻(fan)越(yue)梯(ti)子(zi)巖進入(ru)納(na)(na)(na)雍。這一帶有許多(duo)(duo)關于紅軍的(de)(de)史跡(ji)和(he)革命遺(yi)址。 河水(shui)(shui)出(chu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)后,明流(liu)一點五公(gong)里(li)(li)(li),再次進入(ru)溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),形成(cheng)第二(er)段(duan)伏流(liu)。伏流(liu)時隱時現,有仙人洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)、大穿(chuan)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)等“九(jiu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天”溶(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群。