總(zong)(zong)溪河,發源于赫(he)章,流經畢(bi)節七星關和(he)納(na)雍,下(xia)游(you)接六沖河入烏江。在納(na)雍縣城東(dong)北面維新(xin)鎮、厙東(dong)關鄉(xiang)、董(dong)地鄉(xiang)境內。從(cong)總(zong)(zong)溪河大橋(萬壽橋)至下(xia)游(you)一段,長十二公里,水(shui)面寬三四十米,水(shui)深二三米。
河道蜿蜒曲折,水流有時平穩如鏡,有時波浪排空。兩岸青山對峙,峭壁入云,猴鳴鳥啼,飛瀑鳴響,洞穴成群。乘船而下,宛若置身雄奇的三峽和秀麗的漓江。 總溪河原名“總機河”,因水(shui)(shui)西安氏四(si)十八(ba)目之一的總機安文思居(ju)住于(yu)此得(de)名。后稱“總溪”, 意為眾流(liu)(liu)(liu)成涇。兩(liang)岸(an)有銀灣(wan)子、五簸浪、一線(xian)天、觀猴巖(yan)、石龍、三級飛瀑、段家灣(wan)口(kou)等景(jing)點。清代汪炳瑟璈泛(fan)舟河上(shang),有《題總機河》詩:“漫(man)漫(man)河水(shui)(shui)路(lu)回旋,河流(liu)(liu)(liu)總機浪接天。百(bai)里(li)流(liu)(liu)(liu)來千里(li)會,一波折去萬波連。浮沉野(ye)鶩穿新漲(zhang),欸乃漁(yu)郎泛(fan)小船。翹(qiao)首(shou)巖(yan)扇絕險(xian)處(chu),石橋(qiao)洞口(kou)鎖晴川。” 萬壽橋(qiao)是畢節(jie)、納雍公路(lu)的要津。橋(qiao)長(chang)六(liu)十米(mi),寬八(ba)點五米(mi),高二(er)十五米(mi),架兩(liang)山間。建于(yu)清道光十九(jiu)年(nian)(公元1839年(nian)),橋(qiao)頭(tou)立(li)有兩(liang)塊石碑,
記(ji)載造橋(qiao)始(shi)末。“總己河原有(you)(you)(you)渡船,每遇(yu)水泛之期”,“對(dui)河兩岸(an)苦守水退,方(fang)能(neng)開渡,因此舉念修造石橋(qiao)”。 沿(yan)河兩岸(an)大小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)穴(xue)數(shu)十(shi)個(ge)。有(you)(you)(you)的(de)高居(ju)山頂,橫臥絕(jue)壁:有(you)(you)(you)的(de)半潛入(ru)水,輕披晶簾。“宣(xuan)慰(wei)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)”在大橋(qiao)下(xia)游五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)左岸(an)絕(jue)壁上(shang),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口(kou)距水面一(yi)百五(wu)六(liu)十(shi)米(mi)。周圍(wei)林木茂盛,空谷傳(chuan)響。相傳(chuan)清(qing)康熙三(san)(san)年(nian)(公(gong)(gong)(gong)元1664年(nian))吳三(san)(san)桂征水西,貴州宣(xuan)慰(wei)使(shi)安坤率部據洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)扼守,數(shu)日(ri)不(bu)出(chu),因此得名。今洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)所在附(fu)近,有(you)(you)(you)奢香驛道遺跡。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),有(you)(you)(you)一(yi)條(tiao)主(zhu)巷道,十(shi)來條(tiao)分(fen)道。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)中有(you)(you)(you)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)相連(lian)。橋(qiao)下(xia)游十(shi)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)彭家洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深(shen)四公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),鐘乳石倒(dao)懸,如(ru)群(qun)龍飛舞。山山嶺(ling)嶺(ling)被森林覆蓋,面積達七萬(wan)多(duo)畝,出(chu)產聞名的(de)“納(na)(na)墨玉”。 總溪河流(liu)(liu)經約十(shi)二(er)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)后(hou),進入(ru)溶(rong)(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)成為伏(fu)流(liu)(liu),在地下(xia)潛流(liu)(liu)二(er)點五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li)。地表是險(xian)峻(jun)的(de)梯(ti)子(zi)巖,為納(na)(na)雍與大方(fang)交界處,危(wei)峰突(tu)兀,壁如(ru)刀切(qie),十(shi)分(fen)險(xian)要。1935年(nian)4月,紅九軍(jun)團長征時在大方(fang)貓(mao)場被國民黨(dang)軍(jun)隊及地萬(wan)武裝包(bao)圍(wei),在軍(jun)團長羅炳輝、政委何長工指(zhi)揮下(xia),突(tu)破重(zhong)圍(wei),翻越梯(ti)子(zi)巖進入(ru)納(na)(na)雍。這一(yi)帶(dai)有(you)(you)(you)許(xu)多(duo)關于紅軍(jun)的(de)史跡和革命遺址。 河水出(chu)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)后(hou),明流(liu)(liu)一(yi)點五(wu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)里(li)(li),再次進入(ru)溶(rong)(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),形成第二(er)段伏(fu)流(liu)(liu)。伏(fu)流(liu)(liu)時隱時現,有(you)(you)(you)仙人洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)、大穿洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)等(deng)“九洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)天(tian)”溶(rong)(rong)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)群(qun)。