始創(chuang)于(yu)(yu)元(yuan)(yuan)。夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)曾(ceng)為(wei)(wei)(wei)“元(yuan)(yuan)駙馬都(dou)(dou)尉武毅王(wang)(wang)(wang)湯沐(mu)邑(yi)(yi)(yi)①”(見(jian)(jian)清(qing)(qing)乾(qian)隆(long)(long)本(ben)《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)縣(xian)志(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)·疆域志(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)·沿革(ge)》)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)名孛(bei)要(yao)合,尚(shang)太(tai)祖(zu)成(cheng)吉(ji)(ji)思(si)汗女阿(a)刺海(hai)別(bie)吉(ji)(ji)(見(jian)(jian)《二(er)十(shi)五史(shi)·元(yuan)(yuan)史(shi)一(yi)0九·諸(zhu)公(gong)(gong)(gong)主(zhu)(zhu)表》)。公(gong)(gong)(gong)主(zhu)(zhu)賢慧(hui)聰(cong)穎,除佐王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)政事(shi)(shi),夙重(zhong)丈夫飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)(shi)起(qi)居(ju)(ju),備極(ji)(ji)周洽,凡王(wang)(wang)(wang)餐必重(zhong)攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng)②。“夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)武毅王(wang)(wang)(wang)湯沐(mu)邑(yi)(yi)(yi)非止一(yi)世(shi),王(wang)(wang)(wang)之(zhi)(zhi)孫曰忽(hu)都(dou)(dou)納,再(zai)傳(chuan)(chuan)曰干朵忽(hu)都(dou)(dou),再(zai)傳(chuan)(chuan)曰沈(shen)溫祥。”(見(jian)(jian)民國(guo)(guo)本(ben)《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)縣(xian)志(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)·疆域志(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)·沿革(ge)》)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)孫忽(hu)都(dou)(dou)納襲位(wei),頗有乃(nai)祖(zu)之(zhi)(zhi)風,尤重(zhong)攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)道,其(qi)(qi)與(yu)營(ying)養(yang)大(da)(da)師(shi)忽(hu)思(si)慧(hui)③過從甚密。是(shi)以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi),思(si)慧(hui)常隨來夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)陪侍,文(wen)翰琴棋之(zhi)(zhi)外,共論飲(yin)(yin)(yin)膳(shan)(shan)攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng)。一(yi)日(ri)(ri),見(jian)(jian)王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)所(suo)豢(huan)報曉雞(ji)(ji),毛羽(yu)似火(huo),尾翎紛披(pi),頷首(shou)稱羨。乃(nai)謂(wei)王(wang)(wang)(wang)言:“此物味甘平,微溫無毒(du),補(bu)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)安五臟,最宜攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng)”。王(wang)(wang)(wang)驚喜不(bu)(bu)已,即命(ming)宰(zai)烹(peng)(peng)。廚(chu)夫禿(tu)哈(又作(zuo)圖哈)為(wei)(wei)(wei)祖(zu)傳(chuan)(chuan)世(shi)廚(chu),久侍王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu),主(zhu)(zhu)司(si)廚(chu)饌(zhuan)(zhuan),藝(yi)技(ji)精巧,乃(nai)揮刃而(er)(er)就。思(si)慧(hui)又命(ming)輔(fu)(fu)以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)菇、筍、木耳(er)、精肉諸(zhu)料(liao)(liao)(liao),共雞(ji)(ji)入(ru)(ru)(ru)鼎而(er)(er)烹(peng)(peng)。比及食(shi)(shi)后(hou),王(wang)(wang)(wang)顏大(da)(da)悅,言:“殊美(mei)(mei),唯多骨(gu)(gu)耳(er)”。翌日(ri)(ri),禿(tu)哈即剔骨(gu)(gu)而(er)(er)烹(peng)(peng)。食(shi)(shi)竟,王(wang)(wang)(wang)言:“益(yi)(yi)美(mei)(mei)。第雞(ji)(ji)與(yu)輔(fu)(fu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)相雜,味混渾不(bu)(bu)清(qing)(qing)”,思(si)慧(hui)茫然(ran)扼腕。禿(tu)哈遂(sui)(sui)言:“此易耳(er)。去臟而(er)(er)不(bu)(bu)剖(pou),內剔骨(gu)(gu)可也。”乃(nai)于(yu)(yu)頸側入(ru)(ru)(ru)手(shou),除臟剔骨(gu)(gu),而(er)(er)成(cheng)袋(dai)(dai)囊。中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)充輔(fu)(fu)料(liao)(liao)(liao),勢若完雞(ji)(ji),即和羹而(er)(er)飪。入(ru)(ru)(ru)盤飾以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)青紅菜蔬,整雞(ji)(ji)若伏錦簇中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)。王(wang)(wang)(wang)朵頤大(da)(da)快,頰(jia)齒俱馨(xin)。食(shi)(shi)后(hou)咂舌(she)吮唇,豎擘極(ji)(ji)譽:“外味嫩鮮,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)餡豐華(hua)(hua)。妙(miao)品(pin)哉!”即題(ti)詩云:赭光燦(can)燦(can)如熔金,百珍(zhen)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)囊事(shi)(shi)事(shi)(shi)馨(xin)。天錫(xi)鄃(yu)(yu)城飛(fei)火(huo)鳳(feng),巧烹(peng)(peng)細饌(zhuan)(zhuan)味彌(mi)真。遂(sui)(sui)命(ming)搜購民間(jian)“丹牡(mu)雞(ji)(ji)(紅雄雞(ji)(ji))”,“日(ri)(ri)輒如法(fa)烹(peng)(peng)食(shi)(shi)”。嗣后(hou),又改(gai)用(yong)牝(pin)(pin)雞(ji)(ji)(母雞(ji)(ji)),味尤肥美(mei)(mei)。年(nian)湮日(ri)(ri)久,此饌(zhuan)(zhuan)遂(sui)(sui)成(cheng)王(wang)(wang)(wang)府(fu)佳(jia)肴之(zhi)(zhi)首(shou)。制作(zuo)亦愈趨精純,乃(nai)至主(zhu)(zhu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)選(xuan)用(yong)當(dang)年(nian)生(sheng)(sheng)斤半至二(er)斤牡(mu)、牝(pin)(pin)雞(ji)(ji)。輔(fu)(fu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)又增(zeng)填海(hai)米、海(hai)參(can)、干貝等(deng)(deng),其(qi)(qi)鮮嫩飫美(mei)(mei),倍徙(xi)厥初。因(yin)主(zhu)(zhu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)為(wei)(wei)(wei)夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)土產(chan)雞(ji)(ji),故(gu)又得名“鄃(yu)(yu)飴(yi)(yi)珍(zhen)味雞(ji)(ji)”。后(hou)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)制④之(zhi)(zhi)方(fang)傳(chuan)(chuan)入(ru)(ru)(ru)宮廷(ting)(ting),列入(ru)(ru)(ru)御膳(shan)(shan),每(mei)當(dang)麥秋之(zhi)(zhi)季則征調“鄃(yu)(yu)地土雞(ji)(ji)”,夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)則應時(shi)購取(qu),奉發(fa)帝(di)京。凡節(jie)日(ri)(ri)慶典(dian),朝廷(ting)(ting)即以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)“鄃(yu)(yu)飴(yi)(yi)珍(zhen)味雞(ji)(ji)”分(fen)賜王(wang)(wang)(wang)公(gong)(gong)(gong)大(da)(da)臣(chen)、皇(huang)親(qin)國(guo)(guo)戚,獲者(zhe)(zhe)皆以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)榮。因(yin)之(zhi)(zhi),諸(zhu)王(wang)(wang)(wang)公(gong)(gong)(gong)卿多有效(xiao)法(fa),雖(sui)其(qi)(qi)技(ji)巧參(can)差(cha)不(bu)(bu)侔⑤,味亦優劣有差(cha),然(ran)終為(wei)(wei)(wei)各(ge)府(fu)第宴筵所(suo)必備。清(qing)(qing)乾(qian)隆(long)(long)間(jian)夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)知(zhi)縣(xian)方(fang)學(xue)成(cheng),夙嗜此味,每(mei)命(ming)邑(yi)(yi)(yi)之(zhi)(zhi)名廚(chu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)飪。時(shi)方(fang)母隨任(ren)(ren),方(fang)知(zhi)縣(xian)為(wei)(wei)(wei)人(ren)(ren)至孝(xiao),每(mei)以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)此饌(zhuan)(zhuan)奉母。縣(xian)丞、教諭(yu)、典(dian)史(shi)等(deng)(deng)屬寮亦多效(xiao)仿,各(ge)以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)布(bu)袋(dai)(dai)雞(ji)(ji)奉敬父母。方(fang)知(zhi)縣(xian)卸任(ren)(ren)歸(gui)里(li),宴客必為(wei)(wei)(wei)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)制。食(shi)(shi)者(zhe)(zhe)稱賞(shang),其(qi)(qi)則意為(wei)(wei)(wei)不(bu)(bu)佳(jia),嘗于(yu)(yu)筆(bi)記(ji)《日(ri)(ri)廩(lin)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)玉(yu)》中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)稱:“饌(zhuan)(zhuan)制雖(sui)美(mei)(mei),然(ran)猶不(bu)(bu)及鄃(yu)(yu)味”。因(yin)制作(zuo)工藝(yi)嚴謹(jin),用(yong)料(liao)(liao)(liao)精純,故(gu)民間(jian)烹(peng)(peng)制絕少(shao),飯莊酒肆(si)亦饌(zhuan)(zhuan)飪幾稀。僅據《夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)魏(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)氏族譜·序》載“十(shi)二(er)世(shi)魏(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)公(gong)(gong)(gong)從德(de)為(wei)(wei)(wei)邑(yi)(yi)(yi)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)名廚(chu),饌(zhuan)(zhuan)制‘鄃(yu)(yu)飴(yi)(yi)珍(zhen)味雞(ji)(ji)’名揚遐(xia)邇。嘗營(ying)店肆(si)于(yu)(yu)濟南、石(shi)家莊等(deng)(deng)地,名‘鴻(hong)熙居(ju)(ju)’。凡官(guan)商華(hua)(hua)筵莫不(bu)(bu)首(shou)推,縉(jin)紳(shen)大(da)(da)賈多所(suo)訂取(qu),皆備極(ji)(ji)褒美(mei)(mei)”。按(an)其(qi)(qi)“譜系”推之(zhi)(zhi),魏(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)從德(de)當(dang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)清(qing)(qing)乾(qian)隆(long)(long)初人(ren)(ren)。迄于(yu)(yu)民國(guo)(guo)傳(chuan)(chuan)之(zhi)(zhi)于(yu)(yu)張(zhang)浩(hao),為(wei)(wei)(wei)第八代(dai)傳(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren),繼傳(chuan)(chuan)紀尚(shang)忠,復傳(chuan)(chuan)魏(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)憲華(hua)(hua),已是(shi)第十(shi)代(dai)傳(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)。斗轉星移,璞玉(yu)成(cheng)璋。方(fang)今(jin)“布(bu)袋(dai)(dai)雞(ji)(ji)”名揚遐(xia)邇,身(shen)(shen)位(wei)陡(dou)增(zeng),日(ri)(ri)漸光大(da)(da)輝(hui)煌。德(de)州鴻(hong)熙居(ju)(ju)布(bu)袋(dai)(dai)雞(ji)(ji)有限公(gong)(gong)(gong)司(si),系夏(xia)津(jin)(jin)(jin)(jin)布(bu)袋(dai)(dai)雞(ji)(ji)饌(zhuan)(zhuan)藝(yi)第十(shi)代(dai)傳(chuan)(chuan)人(ren)(ren)、德(de)州布(bu)袋(dai)(dai)雞(ji)(ji)美(mei)(mei)食(shi)(shi)文(wen)化(hua)研究會長(chang)魏(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)憲華(hua)(hua)創(chuang)辦。其(qi)(qi)以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)“傳(chuan)(chuan)統(tong)為(wei)(wei)(wei)源,踵事(shi)(shi)增(zeng)華(hua)(hua)。質(zhi)量為(wei)(wei)(wei)本(ben),科(ke)學(xue)發(fa)展”為(wei)(wei)(wei)理(li)念,深入(ru)(ru)(ru)發(fa)掘傳(chuan)(chuan)統(tong)工藝(yi),利(li)用(yong)現代(dai)科(ke)技(ji)研究分(fen)析營(ying)養(yang)成(cheng)分(fen)配比。力求(qiu)風味以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)適眾口,務使產(chan)品(pin)尤利(li)補(bu)益(yi)(yi),以(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)(yi)期食(shi)(shi)者(zhe)(zhe)攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng),而(er)(er)臻(zhen)延年(nian)。注(zhu):①湯沐(mu)邑(yi)(yi)(yi):古時(shi)供諸(zhu)侯(hou)、大(da)(da)臣(chen)朝見(jian)(jian)天子前,住宿(su)、齋(zhai)戒、沐(mu)浴的(de)地方(fang)。后(hou)來用(yong)做皇(huang)帝(di)、皇(huang)后(hou)、公(gong)(gong)(gong)主(zhu)(zhu)等(deng)(deng)收取(qu)賦稅的(de)私邑(yi)(yi)(yi),也叫湯沐(mu)邑(yi)(yi)(yi)。②攝(she)生(sheng)(sheng):保養(yang)身(shen)(shen)體。③忽(hu)思(si)慧(hui):又作(zuo)和斯輝(hui)。元(yuan)(yuan)代(dai)蒙古族營(ying)養(yang)學(xue)家、醫(yi)(yi)學(xue)家。元(yuan)(yuan)仁宗延佑年(nian)間(jian)(1314-1320)任(ren)(ren)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)膳(shan)(shan)太(tai)醫(yi)(yi),主(zhu)(zhu)管宮廷(ting)(ting)飲(yin)(yin)(yin)食(shi)(shi)、藥湯補(bu)益(yi)(yi)事(shi)(shi)項。曾(ceng)撰有營(ying)養(yang)學(xue)專著--《飲(yin)(yin)(yin)膳(shan)(shan)正要(yao)》。④饌(zhuan)(zhuan)制:烹(peng)(peng)炒菜肴。⑤侔:mou,等(deng)(deng),齊。
清乾(qian)隆(long)年(nian)間(jian)夏(xia)津知縣(xian)方學(xue)(xue)成(cheng)曾派人在夏(xia)津民(min)間(jian)專(zhuan)學(xue)(xue)此(ci)藝,卸任后回(hui)安徽原籍,宴客多次(ci)仿制,食者無不叫絕。然方學(xue)(xue)成(cheng)意味不佳,嘗于(yu)筆記中(zhong)嘆曰:饌(zhuan)制雖美,然猶(you)不及(ji)鄃味。
——《夏津縣志》
據夏津(jin)(jin)縣志記載(zai):布袋(dai)雞(ji)(ji)又名“海(hai)味(wei)什錦雞(ji)(ji)”,源(yuan)于元初(chu),盛于乾隆,系夏津(jin)(jin)傳統特色名吃,后為《滿漢(han)全席(xi)》主菜之一。因其狀如布袋(dai),故名“布袋(dai)雞(ji)(ji)”。布袋(dai)雞(ji)(ji)選料精良,制作別致(zhi),選用散養笨雞(ji)(ji),宰殺煺(tui)毛后,于咽下切(qie)寸許小口,剔(ti)除頸骨(gu)(gu)、翅(chi)骨(gu)(gu)、身骨(gu)(gu)、腿(tui)骨(gu)(gu)及內臟,使其成為“雞(ji)(ji)布袋(dai)”。然后按(an)其比例裝入海(hai)參、鮑魚、瑤柱、火腿(tui)、筍菇等十六種佐(zuo)料,將口封(feng)住,入油炸至金黃色,上(shang)籠蒸(zheng)制,并配以(yi)青、紅、黃等色蔬菜拼成圖(tu)案,放入盤(pan)上(shang)宛如整雞(ji)(ji)伏(fu)于錦囊(nang)之中(zhong),上(shang)席(xi)后,劃開背部(bu),內陷露出,肉鮮(xian)餡美(mei),香(xiang)而不膩,清香(xiang)四溢(yi),營(ying)養均衡,獨具風味(wei),遠近(jin)聞名,被國家列(lie)入《中(zhong)國菜譜》。
原料:笨雞、海參(can)、瑤柱(干貝)、鮑魚、玉蘭(lan)片、瘦豬肉、火腿、魷魚、口蘑(mo)等。
佐料(liao):花椒油(you)、醬油(you)、精鹽、料(liao)酒、味精、水(shui)團粉、高湯、蔥、姜、油(you)等。
1、用(yong)清水洗(xi)凈,浸泡2小(xiao)時備用(yong)
2、桂圓去殼留肉備用
3、泡好的紅豆(dou)、大棗、清水,上(shang)火(huo)煮(zhu)沸
4、加入桂圓
5、再次沸騰后,轉文(wen)火煲60分鐘(zhong)