七(qi)百多年前(qian),新會崖門(men)發生了一(yi)場元朝統一(yi)中國的(de)宋(song)元大海戰(zhan)。大戰(zhan)結束(shu)后(hou),一(yi)位在南宋(song)宮(gong)廷里負責制作(zuo)燒(shao)鵝的(de)御(yu)師,帶(dai)著(zhu)女兒逃難(nan)到(dao)銀(yin)洲(zhou)湖西岸(an)的(de)仙洞村。御(yu)師在仙洞村開了一(yi)間燒(shao)鵝店(dian),憑著(zhu)宮(gong)廷秘制燒(shao)鵝的(de)高超(chao)手(shou)藝,把鵝燒(shao)得色香味獨特,很快便名揚遠(yuan)近(jin)數十(shi)里,生意特別好(hao)。后(hou)來御(yu)師的(de)女兒長大了,嫁到(dao)銀(yin)洲(zhou)湖東岸(an)的(de)古(gu)井,女兒也(ye)把父(fu)親秘制燒(shao)鵝的(de)手(shou)藝帶(dai)到(dao)了古(gu)井。古(gu)井燒(shao)鵝由(you)此而起,并代代相傳(chuan)到(dao)今天(tian)。
現在的古井鎮(zhen)有(you)(you)(you)條燒鵝(e)(e)街(jie)——天成(cheng)街(jie),這里的燒鵝(e)(e)店很多,但(dan)名牌(pai)只有(you)(you)(you)兩個(ge):一(yi)個(ge)是恒益燒臘行的“恒益”燒鵝(e)(e),另一(yi)個(ge)是平香燒鵝(e)(e)專賣店的“平香”燒鵝(e)(e)。當地(di)人有(you)(you)(you)句話:古井人吃(chi)“恒益”,外地(di)人吃(chi)“平香”。
為(wei)什(shen)么“古井(jing)人吃恒益”?因為(wei)恒益燒(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)的(de)制作有其獨特(te)之處,從選鵝(e)(e)到燒(shao)(shao)烤都很講究。據“恒益”老板(ban)呂柏(bo)介(jie)紹,鵝(e)(e)每年(nian)(nian)有兩(liang)造,燒(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)常用(yong)的(de)鵝(e)(e)種是每年(nian)(nian)春季清(qing)明(ming)和秋季重陽前后一個半月(yue)的(de)鵝(e)(e)苗,并且要(yao)在本地(di)魚塘長至三、四(si)個月(yue)大,大約(yue)7斤重。這種鵝(e)(e)叫(jiao)“烏(wu)鬃鵝(e)(e)”,不受污(wu)染,肉(rou)質最好。燒(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)時采用(yong)傳統(tong)的(de)生抽王混砂糖、鹽、酒、蒜茸(rong)、五香粉以(yi)(yi)及(ji)其他不得(de)外傳的(de)獨門秘(mi)方(fang)等(deng)為(wei)醬料,塞(sai)入鵝(e)(e)肚內,用(yong)繩扎緊搖(yao)勻,并以(yi)(yi)麥(mai)糖擦鵝(e)(e)身,用(yong)荔(li)枝柴燒(shao)(shao)爐。鵝(e)(e)掛在熱爐內,爐下置有水之鑊接鵝(e)(e)油,避(bi)免把鵝(e)(e)燒(shao)(shao)焦,以(yi)(yi)中火燒(shao)(shao)烤約(yue)40分鐘便成。當然,還有其他秘(mi)制的(de)方(fang)法,呂柏(bo)說(shuo):“家族生意,守了幾十年(nian)(nian),不能說(shuo)得(de)太(tai)多,畢(bi)竟市(shi)場競爭激(ji)烈。“恒益”燒(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)主要(yao)在古井(jing)銷售,古井(jing)鎮的(de)酒樓(lou)90的(de)燒(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)都是恒益供的(de)貨,所以(yi)(yi)有“本地(di)人吃恒益”之說(shuo)。
平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)店(dian)也(ye)很風行,在外(wai)名氣也(ye)許比(bi)“恒(heng)益”還大(da),所以(yi)有(you)(you)“外(wai)地人(ren)吃平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)”之說。平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)店(dian)的(de)(de)(de)前(qian)身是(shi)(shi)(shi)“奇(qi)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)樓”,奇(qi)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)樓的(de)(de)(de)老板姓陳,人(ren)稱“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)廣”。“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)廣”的(de)(de)(de)第6代傳(chuan)人(ren)陳群已(yi)69歲(sui)了,他15歲(sui)跟著(zhu)叔(shu)叔(shu)到(dao)(dao)“奇(qi)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)樓”學做(zuo)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)。他說,“奇(qi)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)樓”的(de)(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)主(zhu)要(yao)妙在5方面(mian):一(yi)(yi)(yi)是(shi)(shi)(shi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)酒料(liao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)用(yong)幾(ji)種藥(yao)材浸制而(er)成的(de)(de)(de);二(er)是(shi)(shi)(shi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)用(yong)的(de)(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)料(liao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)荔(li)枝(zhi)樹,用(yong)荔(li)枝(zhi)樹燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)出(chu)來(lai)的(de)(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)皮(pi)脆色好(hao),有(you)(you)特殊香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)味;三是(shi)(shi)(shi)用(yong)蜜(mi)糖反復涂抹燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)的(de)(de)(de)表皮(pi),燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)熟了表皮(pi)金黃,肉脆甜;四是(shi)(shi)(shi)鵝(e)(e)(e)的(de)(de)(de)生長期(qi)不能(neng)超過60天;五是(shi)(shi)(shi)宰鵝(e)(e)(e)要(yao)用(yong)地下水(shui)。據(ju)了解(jie),平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)專賣店(dian)為了保證質量,每(mei)天限量生產100只,售完(wan)即止。每(mei)逢(feng)清明(ming)、中秋(qiu)等傳(chuan)統節(jie)日,往(wang)往(wang)要(yao)提前(qian)預定才(cai)能(neng)買到(dao)(dao)“平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)”。如(ru)果有(you)(you)機會(hui)(hui),去到(dao)(dao)新會(hui)(hui)古(gu)(gu)井品嘗燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e),一(yi)(yi)(yi)定會(hui)(hui)搞到(dao)(dao)你頭(tou)暈的(de)(de)(de),因為在古(gu)(gu)井里,不單(dan)單(dan)只有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)店(dian)的(de)(de)(de),是(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)(you)很多間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de),去的(de)(de)(de)那間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)對面(mian)就(jiu)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)叫平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)的(de)(de)(de),而(er)且(qie)在身后不遠的(de)(de)(de)地方,也(ye)有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian),我也(ye)沒有(you)(you)數有(you)(you)多少間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)叫平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)的(de)(de)(de)名字,但(dan)可能(neng)有(you)(you)四五間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)吧(ba),以(yi)前(qian)就(jiu)已(yi)經問過剛才(cai)那間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)(de)服(fu)務員,她說其(qi)實間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)都是(shi)(shi)(shi)平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)的(de)(de)(de),雖然老板不是(shi)(shi)(shi)同一(yi)(yi)(yi)人(ren),但(dan)都是(shi)(shi)(shi)自己兄弟分出(chu)來(lai)搞的(de)(de)(de)。平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)大(da)飯(fan)店(dian)和平(ping)(ping)香(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)總店(dian)(去過,其(qi)實不錯),在江門(men)市區也(ye)可以(yi)吃到(dao)(dao),因為它有(you)(you)一(yi)(yi)(yi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)賣店(dian)”開在勝利路。