七百多年前,新會崖門發生了一(yi)場元朝統一(yi)中國的(de)(de)宋元大(da)(da)海戰。大(da)(da)戰結(jie)束后,一(yi)位(wei)在(zai)南(nan)宋宮廷里(li)負(fu)責制(zhi)作燒(shao)鵝的(de)(de)御(yu)(yu)師,帶著女(nv)(nv)兒逃難到(dao)銀洲(zhou)湖西岸(an)的(de)(de)仙洞村(cun)。御(yu)(yu)師在(zai)仙洞村(cun)開了一(yi)間燒(shao)鵝店,憑著宮廷秘(mi)制(zhi)燒(shao)鵝的(de)(de)高(gao)超手(shou)藝,把鵝燒(shao)得色香味獨特,很(hen)快便名揚遠近數(shu)十里(li),生意特別(bie)好。后來(lai)御(yu)(yu)師的(de)(de)女(nv)(nv)兒長大(da)(da)了,嫁(jia)到(dao)銀洲(zhou)湖東岸(an)的(de)(de)古井(jing),女(nv)(nv)兒也把父親(qin)秘(mi)制(zhi)燒(shao)鵝的(de)(de)手(shou)藝帶到(dao)了古井(jing)。古井(jing)燒(shao)鵝由此而起,并(bing)代(dai)代(dai)相傳到(dao)今天(tian)。
現在的古井鎮有條燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)街——天成(cheng)街,這里的燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)店很多(duo),但名牌(pai)只有兩個(ge)(ge):一(yi)個(ge)(ge)是恒益(yi)燒(shao)臘行(xing)的“恒益(yi)”燒(shao)鵝(e)(e),另(ling)一(yi)個(ge)(ge)是平(ping)香燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)專賣店的“平(ping)香”燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)。當地人(ren)有句話:古井人(ren)吃“恒益(yi)”,外地人(ren)吃“平(ping)香”。
為什(shen)么“古(gu)井人(ren)吃恒(heng)益(yi)”?因為恒(heng)益(yi)燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)的(de)(de)制作有(you)其(qi)獨特之處(chu),從選(xuan)鵝(e)(e)(e)到燒(shao)烤(kao)都很講究。據“恒(heng)益(yi)”老板呂柏(bo)介紹,鵝(e)(e)(e)每年(nian)有(you)兩造,燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)常用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)鵝(e)(e)(e)種(zhong)是每年(nian)春季清明和秋季重陽前(qian)后一個半月(yue)的(de)(de)鵝(e)(e)(e)苗,并(bing)且(qie)要(yao)(yao)在(zai)本地魚塘長至三、四個月(yue)大,大約7斤重。這種(zhong)鵝(e)(e)(e)叫“烏鬃(zong)鵝(e)(e)(e)”,不(bu)(bu)受污染,肉質最好。燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)時采用(yong)(yong)傳統的(de)(de)生抽王混砂糖(tang)、鹽、酒、蒜茸(rong)、五香粉以及其(qi)他不(bu)(bu)得外傳的(de)(de)獨門秘方(fang)等為醬料,塞(sai)入鵝(e)(e)(e)肚(du)內,用(yong)(yong)繩扎緊搖勻,并(bing)以麥糖(tang)擦鵝(e)(e)(e)身,用(yong)(yong)荔枝柴燒(shao)爐。鵝(e)(e)(e)掛在(zai)熱爐內,爐下置有(you)水(shui)之鑊接(jie)鵝(e)(e)(e)油,避免(mian)把鵝(e)(e)(e)燒(shao)焦,以中火燒(shao)烤(kao)約40分鐘便成。當(dang)然(ran),還(huan)有(you)其(qi)他秘制的(de)(de)方(fang)法,呂柏(bo)說(shuo):“家族生意,守了幾(ji)十年(nian),不(bu)(bu)能說(shuo)得太多,畢竟市場(chang)競爭激烈(lie)。“恒(heng)益(yi)”燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)主要(yao)(yao)在(zai)古(gu)井銷售,古(gu)井鎮的(de)(de)酒樓(lou)90的(de)(de)燒(shao)鵝(e)(e)(e)都是恒(heng)益(yi)供的(de)(de)貨,所以有(you)“本地人(ren)吃恒(heng)益(yi)”之說(shuo)。
平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝店(dian)(dian)也(ye)很風(feng)行,在(zai)外名氣也(ye)許比“恒(heng)益”還大(da),所(suo)以有(you)“外地人(ren)(ren)吃(chi)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)”之說(shuo)。平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝店(dian)(dian)的(de)(de)前(qian)身是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)“奇香(xiang)樓(lou)”,奇香(xiang)樓(lou)的(de)(de)老(lao)(lao)板姓陳,人(ren)(ren)稱“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝廣”。“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝廣”的(de)(de)第6代傳人(ren)(ren)陳群已69歲了(le)(le),他(ta)15歲跟著(zhu)叔(shu)叔(shu)到“奇香(xiang)樓(lou)”學做(zuo)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝。他(ta)說(shuo),“奇香(xiang)樓(lou)”的(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝主要妙在(zai)5方(fang)面:一是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)酒(jiu)料(liao)(liao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)幾(ji)種(zhong)藥材浸制而(er)成的(de)(de);二(er)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)料(liao)(liao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)荔(li)枝樹(shu),用(yong)(yong)荔(li)枝樹(shu)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)出來的(de)(de)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝皮(pi)脆(cui)色好,有(you)特殊香(xiang)味(wei);三(san)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)蜜(mi)糖反復涂抹燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝的(de)(de)表皮(pi),燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)熟了(le)(le)表皮(pi)金黃,肉脆(cui)甜(tian);四是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)鵝的(de)(de)生長期不(bu)(bu)能(neng)超過60天;五(wu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)宰鵝要用(yong)(yong)地下(xia)水。據了(le)(le)解,平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝專賣(mai)店(dian)(dian)為了(le)(le)保證質量,每天限量生產100只,售(shou)完(wan)即止。每逢(feng)清明、中秋等傳統(tong)節(jie)日,往(wang)往(wang)要提前(qian)預(yu)定(ding)才(cai)能(neng)買到“平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝”。如果有(you)機會(hui),去(qu)到新會(hui)古井(jing)品嘗燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝,一定(ding)會(hui)搞到你頭暈的(de)(de),因為在(zai)古井(jing)里,不(bu)(bu)單單只有(you)一間(jian)(jian)(jian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)店(dian)(dian)的(de)(de),是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)有(you)很多間(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de),去(qu)的(de)(de)那間(jian)(jian)(jian)對面就(jiu)有(you)一間(jian)(jian)(jian)也(ye)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)叫(jiao)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)的(de)(de),而(er)且(qie)在(zai)身后(hou)不(bu)(bu)遠的(de)(de)地方(fang),也(ye)有(you)一間(jian)(jian)(jian),我也(ye)沒(mei)有(you)數有(you)多少(shao)間(jian)(jian)(jian)叫(jiao)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)的(de)(de)名字,但可能(neng)有(you)四五(wu)間(jian)(jian)(jian)吧,以前(qian)就(jiu)已經問過剛才(cai)那間(jian)(jian)(jian)的(de)(de)服務員,她說(shuo)其(qi)實間(jian)(jian)(jian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)都是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)的(de)(de),雖然老(lao)(lao)板不(bu)(bu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)同一人(ren)(ren),但都是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)自己兄弟分出來搞的(de)(de)。平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝大(da)飯店(dian)(dian)和(he)平(ping)(ping)(ping)香(xiang)燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)鵝總店(dian)(dian)(去(qu)過,其(qi)實不(bu)(bu)錯(cuo)),在(zai)江(jiang)門市區(qu)也(ye)可以吃(chi)到,因為它有(you)一間(jian)(jian)(jian)“燒(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)(shao)賣(mai)店(dian)(dian)”開(kai)在(zai)勝利路。