百善硬面大卷不(bu)同于一般的(de)大卷。首(shou)先是它的(de)“硬”;用手按不(bu)出凹坑,攥在拳中(zhong)不(bu)變形,像磚頭塊似(si)的(de)。再者是“大”:正宗的(de)大卷一般長7厘(li)米,寬(kuan)3厘(li)米,高 15厘(li)米,一個足有四兩多。其次是它的(de)形狀:上(shang)方為橋(qiao)拱圓弧形,下(xia)邊為四方形。
硬面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大(da)(da)卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)制作(zuo)工(gong)藝相當繁雜(za)。往年沒(mei)有(you)磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機,石磨推出(chu)(chu)的(de)(de)(de)小麥面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉,頭破面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)用(yong)(yong)銅絲羅二遍,使面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉又白又細,做(zuo)(zuo)出(chu)(chu)的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)卷(juan)才能(neng)光亮不走形。當天早上(shang)能(neng)上(shang)市(shi)的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)卷(juan),頭天晚上(shang)就(jiu)要(yao)開始和發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),凌晨2點(dian)就(jiu)得起(qi)床開始顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時撒一層干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),把干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)進發面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后,再撒一層干面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再繼續顫(zhan)。這樣要(yao)反復六七遍,直至把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)得提起(qi)來(lai)不下(xia)(xia)墜(zhui),放下(xia)(xia)來(lai)不走形為止。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)費工(gong)費時,勞動強度大(da)(da),又要(yao)把握(wo)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)干濕軟硬程(cheng)度,是(shi)制作(zuo)硬面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大(da)(da)卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)關(guan)鍵技巧(qiao)。為減輕(qing)雙手(shou)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)勞動強度,有(you)人發明了在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案一頭栓根(gen)木棒(bang),把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放在(zai)棒(bang)下(xia)(xia),用(yong)(yong)雙手(shou)壓木棒(bang)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)技巧(qiao)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工(gong)序完成后,接著要(yao)做(zuo)(zuo)出(chu)(chu)一排排上(shang)圓下(xia)(xia)方的(de)(de)(de)“饃(mo)基子”,用(yong)(yong)鋒利的(de)(de)(de)菜刀(dao)快(kuai)速(su)切出(chu)(chu)個頭均勻的(de)(de)(de)大(da)(da)卷(juan)。大(da)(da)卷(juan)入鍋(guo)幾分鐘(zhong)后,要(yao)開鍋(guo)蓋查看,發現(xian)走形的(de)(de)(de)要(yao)及(ji)早整形,然后燒旺火,一氣呵成。