百(bai)善(shan)硬面大卷不同于(yu)一般的(de)大卷。首先(xian)是(shi)它(ta)的(de)“硬”;用手按不出凹坑,攥在(zai)拳中不變(bian)形(xing),像磚頭塊似的(de)。再者是(shi)“大”:正宗(zong)的(de)大卷一般長7厘(li)米(mi),寬3厘(li)米(mi),高 15厘(li)米(mi),一個足有四(si)(si)兩多。其次是(shi)它(ta)的(de)形(xing)狀:上方為(wei)橋拱(gong)圓弧形(xing),下(xia)邊為(wei)四(si)(si)方形(xing)。
硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)制作工(gong)藝相(xiang)當(dang)繁(fan)雜(za)。往年(nian)沒有磨面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)機,石(shi)磨推出(chu)(chu)的(de)(de)(de)小麥面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen),頭破面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)用銅絲羅二遍,使(shi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉(fen)又白又細(xi),做出(chu)(chu)的(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan)才(cai)能(neng)光亮(liang)不走(zou)形(xing)(xing)。當(dang)天早(zao)上能(neng)上市的(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan),頭天晚(wan)上就(jiu)(jiu)要(yao)開始(shi)和發(fa)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),凌晨2點(dian)就(jiu)(jiu)得(de)起(qi)(qi)床開始(shi)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)時撒一(yi)層(ceng)干(gan)(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),把干(gan)(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)進發(fa)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)后,再撒一(yi)層(ceng)干(gan)(gan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),再繼續(xu)顫(zhan)。這樣要(yao)反復六(liu)七遍,直(zhi)至把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)顫(zhan)得(de)提起(qi)(qi)來不下墜,放下來不走(zou)形(xing)(xing)為(wei)止。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)費工(gong)費時,勞(lao)(lao)動(dong)強度大,又要(yao)把握面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)干(gan)(gan)濕軟硬(ying)程(cheng)度,是(shi)制作硬(ying)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)大卷(juan)的(de)(de)(de)關鍵(jian)技巧(qiao)。為(wei)減輕雙(shuang)手(shou)顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)勞(lao)(lao)動(dong)強度,有人(ren)發(fa)明了在面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)案一(yi)頭栓根木棒,把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)放在棒下,用雙(shuang)手(shou)壓(ya)木棒顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)(de)技巧(qiao)。顫(zhan)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)工(gong)序完成后,接著要(yao)做出(chu)(chu)一(yi)排排上圓下方的(de)(de)(de)“饃基子”,用鋒利的(de)(de)(de)菜刀(dao)快速切(qie)出(chu)(chu)個(ge)頭均勻的(de)(de)(de)大卷(juan)。大卷(juan)入(ru)鍋幾分鐘后,要(yao)開鍋蓋(gai)查看(kan),發(fa)現(xian)走(zou)形(xing)(xing)的(de)(de)(de)要(yao)及早(zao)整形(xing)(xing),然后燒旺火(huo),一(yi)氣呵成。