中(zhong)老年(nian)服裝(zhuang)裁剪圖 青中老年體的服裝剪裁方法
裁(cai)剪最主要(yao)的是公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)式(shi)(shi)(shi)的取(qu)值及公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)式(shi)(shi)(shi)的合(he)理(li)性。沒(mei)有一個較(jiao)為標準的公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)式(shi)(shi)(shi)來(lai)定位,也給工業制板造成一定的難度,為了便于掌握公(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)式(shi)(shi)(shi)的運用(yong)技巧,應從以(yi)下幾個方面來(lai)分析:
公(gong)式(shi)與年齡(ling)(ling)、體(ti)型(xing)的分析在(zai)正常體(ti)型(xing)下(xia),按年齡(ling)(ling)分為青(qing)年體(ti)、中年體(ti)、老年體(ti)。在(zai)設(she)置公(gong)式(shi)時要根據不同年齡(ling)(ling)來設(she)置。
青中老年體的服裝剪裁方法
1、青年人體型
青年人(ren)體型差(cha)異小,圍度(du)(du)的變化幅度(du)(du)也小,但因(yin)身(shen)高有一定的差(cha)異在運用公式上增檔值略大(da)一些,如袖(xiu)籠深(shen)、袖(xiu)開深(shen)、肩高、立襠(dang)等(deng)。
2、中年體的體型
中年體(ti)的(de)(de)(de)體(ti)型(xing)差(cha)異較(jiao)大(da),圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)的(de)(de)(de)變(bian)化幅度(du)(du)(du)(du)也較(jiao)大(da)則(ze)增(zeng)襠值應(ying)小(xiao)一些(xie)(xie),而(er)老年人(ren)圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)變(bian)化大(da),體(ti)型(xing)差(cha)異更大(da),增(zeng)襠值應(ying)更小(xiao)些(xie)(xie),增(zeng)襠值是指(zhi)一個公式用(yong)(yong)2/10的(de)(de)(de)圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)來計算(suan)的(de)(de)(de)話,那么圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)每增(zeng)加lcm時深度(du)(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)加0.2cm;運(yun)(yun)用(yong)(yong)1.5/10圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)加lcm時深度(du)(du)(du)(du)增(zeng)加0.15cm;運(yun)(yun)用(yong)(yong)1/10圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)則(ze)增(zeng)加0.1cm,由些(xie)(xie)可見(jian),青年人(ren)圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)的(de)(de)(de)變(bian)化幅度(du)(du)(du)(du)較(jiao)小(xiao),運(yun)(yun)用(yong)(yong)2/10B+定數(shu)來計算(suan)袖籠深較(jiao)為合適。而(er)中年人(ren)變(bian)化幅度(du)(du)(du)(du)較(jiao)大(da)運(yun)(yun)用(yong)(yong)1.8/10B+定數(shu)或1.5/lOB圍(wei)度(du)(du)(du)(du)+定數(shu)。
3、老年體的體型
老年(nian)人圍(wei)度變化幅度特別大。就胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)而言胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)最小的(de)(de)在(zai)95cm左右,大的(de)(de)在(zai)120cm左右甚至(zhi)更大些,這(zhe)樣的(de)(de)變化幅度,如運用(yong)2/10B定數來計(ji)算,胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)每增(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)lcm袖籠深增(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)0.2cm;每增(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)2.5cm,袖籠深就增(zeng)(zeng)加(jia)(jia)5cm。如此(ci)計(ji)算,袖籠的(de)(de)增(zeng)(zeng)襠速(su)度太快(kuai),不適合(he)老年(nian)體,因此(ci)應該運用(yong)1.5/l0B胸(xiong)(xiong)圍(wei)+定數或運用(yong)1/10B加(jia)(jia)定數才行。一般(ban)情況下號碼(ma)越少,增(zeng)(zeng)襠速(su)度越快(kuai),號碼(ma)越多,則適應面越廣,增(zeng)(zeng)襠速(su)度也(ye)慢。