羽(yu)絨(rong)服(fu)制作材料有哪些(xie) 定(ding)做羽(yu)絨(rong)服(fu)流(liu)程

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽(yu)絨服的材料主(zhu)要是(shi)羽(yu)絨和(he)涂層織物。

①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)(也稱(cheng)朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混合物。 前者(zhe)稱(cheng)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)，后者(zhe)稱(cheng)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多用(yong)鴨(ya)和(he)(he)鵝的(de)(de)毛，經選洗分離(li)出小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)用(yong)作羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)絮(xu)料。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有灰白(bai)兩種，白(bai)者(zhe)為(wei)佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)(fu)的(de)(de)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)與充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)和(he)(he)含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)有關。充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)一件(jian)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)(fu)(fu)絮(xu)進(jin)的(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)，用(yong)克表(biao)示，一般為(wei)250克左右,充絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保暖性差；含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)含(han)(han)量(liang)(liang)(liang),用(yong)百分比(bi)(bi)表(biao)示，一般含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50～80％。含(han)(han)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)高(gao)，則(ze)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)能使(shi)人體熱(re)量(liang)(liang)(liang)不(bu)(bu)易(yi)散失,且(qie)(qie)手感(gan)柔(rou)軟,但(dan)當受壓和(he)(he)遇(yu)濕后不(bu)(bu)易(yi)及時鼓起，而小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片此時則(ze)能使(shi)衣服(fu)(fu)(fu)蓬(peng)松鼓起以(yi)保持(chi)衣內有較多的(de)(de)空(kong)氣(qi)，有助保暖,但(dan)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片多了(le),熱(re)量(liang)(liang)(liang)易(yi)流散，且(qie)(qie)有毛梗(geng)感(gan)。所(suo)以(yi)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)和(he)(he)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片必須兼收并蓄，比(bi)(bi)例得當。

②涂(tu)層織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)選(xuan)用(yong)經(jing)(jing)緯紗(sha)高(gao)密的絲(si)綢、棉(mian)布、棉(mian)滌(di)等織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)，經(jing)(jing)軋壓處理，使經(jing)(jing)緯紗(sha)之間的空隙(xi)縮小，再涂(tu)以高(gao)分子(zi)漿(jiang)(jiang)料(liao)，使之與織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)形成交鏈的透明(ming)皮(pi)膜覆蓋層，以封閉織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經(jing)(jing)緯間隙(xi)。有(you)的在涂(tu)層漿(jiang)(jiang)料(liao)內加入氟磷樹脂或有(you)機硅類防(fang)水(shui)(shui)劑，使織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)具有(you)防(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)滲水(shui)(shui)的性能。20世(shi)紀80年(nian)代已有(you)不(bu)經(jing)(jing)涂(tu)層的特制超高(gao)密織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)，同樣能起到防(fang)露絨(rong)、防(fang)滲水(shui)(shui)和(he)透氣的作(zuo)用(yong)。用(yong)于羽絨(rong)服的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)分硬性、軟(ruan)(ruan)性二類。滌(di)府、滌(di)卡、棉(mian)布屬(shu)硬性類，穿(chuan)著(zhu)平整；真絲(si)塔府綢、尼(ni)絲(si)紡屬(shu)軟(ruan)(ruan)性類，穿(chuan)著(zhu)柔軟(ruan)(ruan)舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考樣衣及圖紙(zhi)；

2、針(zhen)距：11-13針/3cm明(ming)線跡，12-14針/3cm暗線(xian)跡。合縫用11#機針，引線(xian)用9#機針(zhen)；

3、線順(shun)色（特殊要求除外(wai)），面線用(yong)與身順(shun)色線；

4、各部位線路要順(shun)直，縫紉(ren)線跡30cm內不得有兩處單跳(tiao)和連續跳(tiao)針(zhen)，包縫線(xian)跡不允許跳(tiao)針(zhen)。面、底線(xian)應松緊適宜(yi)，起落都要打回(hui)針(zhen)；

5、袖子(zi)抽(chou)(chou)(chou)褶：先(xian)在單(dan)衣片上抽(chou)(chou)(chou)褶，然后再充絨納(na)線。抽(chou)(chou)(chou)褶線與肩縫對縫；

6、汽眼(yan)加隔色墊布；

7、大身拉鏈要(yao)求平整，不可起浪。門襟鏈拉頭要(yao)求左(zuo)拉右插，緝0.1cm明線；

8、主標、小號釘(ding)在內里后中(zhong)；水洗標在內里左側縫(feng)1/2處為(wei)標(biao)下口；

9、所有里子拼接縫要(yao)求(qiu)包(bao)縫；

10、袖口內(nei)面布為(wei)勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾明線先充絨后輯明線；

12、棉(mian)靠里布，帽子(zi)周圈(quan)走0.1cm明線，帽子前(qian)口0.1+2.5cm明線。帽子底口0.1明(ming)線(xian)。帽縫帶帶條。具體(ti)納線(xian)參考圖紙

13、肩縫(feng)、腋下、兜布加帶條；

14、半(ban)成品必須(xu)小燙(tang)，熨燙(tang)平(ping)服，無極光；

15、其他具體做法(fa)參(can)考樣衣。