羽(yu)絨(rong)服(fu)制作材(cai)料有哪些 定(ding)做羽(yu)絨(rong)服(fu)流程(cheng)

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽(yu)絨(rong)服的材料主要是(shi)羽(yu)絨(rong)和涂層織物(wu)。

①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)(也(ye)稱朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)混合物。 前(qian)者稱羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)，后者稱絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多用鴨和(he)鵝(e)的(de)毛，經選洗(xi)分離出(chu)小(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)用作(zuo)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)絮料。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有灰白兩(liang)種，白者為(wei)佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)與充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)和(he)含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)有關。充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)一件羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)絮進的(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)，用克表(biao)示，一般為(wei)250克左右(you),充(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保暖性差；含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指(zhi)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)的(de)含量(liang)(liang)(liang),用百分比表(biao)示，一般含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50～80％。含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)高，則質量(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)能(neng)使(shi)人(ren)體熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)不(bu)易(yi)(yi)散(san)失,且手感柔軟,但(dan)當受壓和(he)遇(yu)濕后不(bu)易(yi)(yi)及時鼓起(qi)，而小(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片此(ci)時則能(neng)使(shi)衣(yi)(yi)服(fu)蓬松(song)鼓起(qi)以保持衣(yi)(yi)內有較多的(de)空氣(qi)，有助保暖,但(dan)小(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片多了,熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)易(yi)(yi)流散(san)，且有毛梗感。所(suo)以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(zi)(zi)和(he)小(xiao)(xiao)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片必須(xu)兼收并(bing)蓄(xu)，比例得當。

②涂(tu)層(ceng)織(zhi)(zhi)物選用(yong)經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)紗(sha)(sha)高(gao)密的(de)絲綢(chou)、棉(mian)(mian)布、棉(mian)(mian)滌(di)(di)等織(zhi)(zhi)物，經(jing)(jing)軋壓處(chu)理，使(shi)經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)紗(sha)(sha)之間(jian)的(de)空隙(xi)縮小，再涂(tu)以高(gao)分子漿料(liao)，使(shi)之與織(zhi)(zhi)物形成交鏈的(de)透(tou)明皮膜覆蓋層(ceng)，以封(feng)閉織(zhi)(zhi)物經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)間(jian)隙(xi)。有(you)的(de)在涂(tu)層(ceng)漿料(liao)內加入氟(fu)磷樹脂(zhi)或有(you)機硅類(lei)防水劑，使(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)物具有(you)防露絨、防滲水的(de)性(xing)能。20世紀80年代已(yi)有(you)不(bu)經(jing)(jing)涂(tu)層(ceng)的(de)特制超(chao)高(gao)密織(zhi)(zhi)物，同樣(yang)能起到防露絨、防滲水和透(tou)氣的(de)作用(yong)。用(yong)于(yu)羽絨服的(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物分硬性(xing)、軟性(xing)二類(lei)。滌(di)(di)府(fu)、滌(di)(di)卡、棉(mian)(mian)布屬硬性(xing)類(lei)，穿著(zhu)平(ping)整；真絲塔(ta)府(fu)綢(chou)、尼絲紡屬軟性(xing)類(lei)，穿著(zhu)柔軟舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路(lu)參考樣衣及圖紙；

2、針距：11-13針/3cm明線跡，12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫用(yong)11#機針，引線用9#機針(zhen)；

3、線(xian)(xian)順色（特(te)殊要(yao)求除(chu)外），面線(xian)(xian)用與身(shen)順色線(xian)(xian)；

4、各部位線路要順直，縫紉線跡30cm內不得有兩處(chu)單跳和(he)連續跳針(zhen)，包縫線跡不允(yun)許跳針(zhen)。面、底線應松緊適宜，起落都要打(da)回針(zhen)；

5、袖(xiu)子(zi)抽褶：先(xian)在單衣片上抽褶，然后再充絨納線(xian)。抽褶線(xian)與肩縫(feng)對縫(feng)；

6、汽眼(yan)加(jia)隔色墊布(bu)；

7、大身拉(la)鏈要求(qiu)平整，不可起浪。門(men)襟鏈拉(la)頭要求(qiu)左拉(la)右插，緝0.1cm明線；

8、主標(biao)、小號釘(ding)在內(nei)里后中(zhong)；水(shui)洗(xi)標(biao)在內(nei)里左側縫(feng)1/2處為標(biao)下口；

9、所有里子(zi)拼接(jie)縫(feng)要求(qiu)包(bao)縫(feng)；

10、袖口(kou)內面布為勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾(shi)明線(xian)(xian)先充絨后輯明線(xian)(xian)；

12、棉靠里布(bu)，帽子(zi)周圈走0.1cm明線(xian)，帽(mao)子前口0.1+2.5cm明線(xian)。帽子(zi)底(di)口0.1明(ming)線(xian)。帽縫帶(dai)帶(dai)條。具體(ti)納線(xian)參考(kao)圖(tu)紙(zhi)

13、肩縫(feng)、腋下、兜布加帶(dai)條；

14、半(ban)成(cheng)品必須小(xiao)燙，熨燙平服，無極光；

15、其他(ta)具(ju)體做法(fa)參考樣衣。