羽(yu)絨服制作材料有哪些(xie) 定做羽(yu)絨服流程
羽絨服制作材料有哪些
羽絨服的材(cai)料主要是羽絨和涂(tu)層織物。
①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong):小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和絨(rong)(rong)子(zi)(也稱朵(duo)絨(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)(de)混合(he)物(wu)。 前者(zhe)(zhe)稱羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu),后(hou)(hou)者(zhe)(zhe)稱絨(rong)(rong)。多(duo)用(yong)鴨(ya)和鵝的(de)(de)(de)毛,經選洗分(fen)離(li)出小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片和絨(rong)(rong)子(zi)用(yong)作羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)(de)絮(xu)料(liao)。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)有灰白(bai)兩種,白(bai)者(zhe)(zhe)為(wei)佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)(de)質量(liang)(liang)(liang)與充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)和含絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)有關。充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指一件(jian)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)服(fu)絮(xu)進的(de)(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang),用(yong)克表(biao)(biao)示,一般為(wei)250克左(zuo)右(you),充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保(bao)暖性差;含絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)指羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)中絨(rong)(rong)子(zi)的(de)(de)(de)含量(liang)(liang)(liang),用(yong)百分(fen)比(bi)表(biao)(biao)示,一般含絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50~80%。含絨(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)高,則質量(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因絨(rong)(rong)子(zi)能(neng)(neng)使(shi)人體熱(re)量(liang)(liang)(liang)不(bu)易(yi)散失,且(qie)手感(gan)柔(rou)軟,但當受壓(ya)和遇濕后(hou)(hou)不(bu)易(yi)及時(shi)(shi)鼓起,而小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片此(ci)時(shi)(shi)則能(neng)(neng)使(shi)衣服(fu)蓬(peng)松鼓起以保(bao)持衣內有較多(duo)的(de)(de)(de)空氣,有助保(bao)暖,但小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片多(duo)了(le),熱(re)量(liang)(liang)(liang)易(yi)流(liu)散,且(qie)有毛梗感(gan)。所以絨(rong)(rong)子(zi)和小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)(yu)片必須兼收并蓄,比(bi)例(li)得當。
②涂層(ceng)(ceng)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)選(xuan)用(yong)經(jing)緯(wei)(wei)紗高密(mi)的(de)絲綢(chou)、棉布(bu)、棉滌等織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu),經(jing)軋壓處理,使經(jing)緯(wei)(wei)紗之間(jian)的(de)空隙(xi)縮小,再涂以高分子漿(jiang)(jiang)料(liao)(liao),使之與織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)形(xing)成交鏈(lian)的(de)透明皮膜(mo)覆蓋層(ceng)(ceng),以封閉織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)經(jing)緯(wei)(wei)間(jian)隙(xi)。有(you)的(de)在涂層(ceng)(ceng)漿(jiang)(jiang)料(liao)(liao)內加入(ru)氟磷(lin)樹脂或(huo)有(you)機硅類防水(shui)劑,使織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)具有(you)防露(lu)絨(rong)、防滲(shen)水(shui)的(de)性(xing)能(neng)。20世(shi)紀80年(nian)代已有(you)不經(jing)涂層(ceng)(ceng)的(de)特制超高密(mi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu),同樣(yang)能(neng)起(qi)到(dao)防露(lu)絨(rong)、防滲(shen)水(shui)和透氣(qi)的(de)作用(yong)。用(yong)于羽(yu)絨(rong)服的(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)分硬性(xing)、軟(ruan)(ruan)性(xing)二(er)類。滌府(fu)(fu)、滌卡、棉布(bu)屬硬性(xing)類,穿著平整;真(zhen)絲塔府(fu)(fu)綢(chou)、尼絲紡屬軟(ruan)(ruan)性(xing)類,穿著柔軟(ruan)(ruan)舒(shu)適。
定做羽絨服流程
1、線(xian)路(lu)參考樣衣及(ji)圖紙(zhi);
2、針(zhen)距:11-13針(zhen)/3cm明線跡,12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫用11#機(ji)針,引線用(yong)9#機針;
3、線(xian)順色(特(te)殊要(yao)求除外(wai)),面線(xian)用與身順色線(xian);
4、各部(bu)位線(xian)路要順(shun)直,縫紉線(xian)跡30cm內不(bu)得有兩處單(dan)跳和(he)連續跳針(zhen),包(bao)縫線(xian)跡不(bu)允許跳針(zhen)。面(mian)、底線(xian)應松緊(jin)適宜(yi),起落都要打(da)回針(zhen);
5、袖(xiu)子抽褶(zhe):先在單(dan)衣片(pian)上抽褶(zhe),然后再(zai)充絨納線(xian)。抽褶(zhe)線(xian)與肩縫對縫;
6、汽眼加隔色(se)墊布;
7、大身拉鏈要求平(ping)整,不(bu)可起浪。門襟鏈拉頭要求左拉右(you)插,緝0.1cm明線;
8、主標、小號釘在(zai)內里后(hou)中;水洗標在(zai)內里左側縫1/2處(chu)為標(biao)下(xia)口;
9、所有(you)里子拼接(jie)縫(feng)(feng)要求(qiu)包(bao)縫(feng)(feng);
10、袖口內面(mian)布(bu)為勾縫;
11、兜口1CM裝飾(shi)明(ming)線先(xian)充絨后輯明(ming)線;
12、棉靠里布,帽子周圈(quan)走0.1cm明線,帽子(zi)前口0.1+2.5cm明線(xian)。帽子底口0.1明線。帽縫(feng)帶帶條。具體納線參考圖紙
13、肩縫、腋下、兜布加帶條;
14、半成(cheng)品(pin)必須小(xiao)燙(tang),熨燙(tang)平(ping)服,無(wu)極光;
15、其(qi)他(ta)具體做法參(can)考(kao)樣衣。