羽絨(rong)服制作材料有哪些 定做羽絨(rong)服流程

羽絨服制作材料有哪些

羽絨服的材料主要是(shi)羽絨和(he)涂層織物。

①羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)：小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子(也稱朵絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong))的(de)(de)混合物(wu)。 前者稱羽(yu)(yu)(yu)，后(hou)者稱絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)。多(duo)用鴨和(he)鵝(e)的(de)(de)毛，經選(xuan)洗分離出小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片和(he)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子用作羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)絮(xu)料。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)有(you)灰白兩種(zhong)，白者為(wei)佳。羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)的(de)(de)質(zhi)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)與充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)和(he)含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)有(you)關。充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)指一件羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)服(fu)絮(xu)進的(de)(de)羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)重量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)，用克(ke)表(biao)示(shi)，一般為(wei)250克(ke)左右,充(chong)(chong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)少,保暖(nuan)(nuan)性(xing)差；含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)指羽(yu)(yu)(yu)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)中(zhong)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子的(de)(de)含量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang),用百分比表(biao)示(shi)，一般含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)為(wei)50～80％。含絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)高，則質(zhi)量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)好。因(yin)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子能使人(ren)體熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)不易散(san)失,且手感柔軟(ruan),但(dan)當受壓和(he)遇濕后(hou)不易及(ji)時鼓起，而(er)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片此時則能使衣(yi)服(fu)蓬松鼓起以保持衣(yi)內有(you)較(jiao)多(duo)的(de)(de)空氣，有(you)助保暖(nuan)(nuan),但(dan)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片多(duo)了,熱量(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)(liang)易流散(san)，且有(you)毛梗感。所以絨(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)(rong)子和(he)小羽(yu)(yu)(yu)片必須(xu)兼收并蓄，比例得當。

②涂(tu)層織(zhi)物選用(yong)經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)(wei)紗高(gao)(gao)密的(de)(de)絲綢(chou)、棉(mian)布、棉(mian)滌(di)等織(zhi)物，經(jing)(jing)軋壓處(chu)理，使(shi)經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)(wei)紗之間的(de)(de)空隙縮(suo)小，再涂(tu)以(yi)高(gao)(gao)分子漿(jiang)料，使(shi)之與織(zhi)物形成交鏈的(de)(de)透(tou)明(ming)皮膜覆蓋層，以(yi)封閉(bi)織(zhi)物經(jing)(jing)緯(wei)(wei)間隙。有的(de)(de)在涂(tu)層漿(jiang)料內(nei)加入氟磷樹脂或有機(ji)硅類防(fang)(fang)水(shui)(shui)劑，使(shi)織(zhi)物具有防(fang)(fang)露絨、防(fang)(fang)滲水(shui)(shui)的(de)(de)性能。20世紀80年代已有不經(jing)(jing)涂(tu)層的(de)(de)特制超(chao)高(gao)(gao)密織(zhi)物，同樣能起到防(fang)(fang)露絨、防(fang)(fang)滲水(shui)(shui)和透(tou)氣(qi)的(de)(de)作(zuo)用(yong)。用(yong)于羽(yu)絨服的(de)(de)織(zhi)物分硬性、軟性二類。滌(di)府、滌(di)卡(ka)、棉(mian)布屬(shu)硬性類，穿著平整；真絲塔(ta)府綢(chou)、尼絲紡屬(shu)軟性類，穿著柔軟舒適。

定做羽絨服流程

1、線路參考樣(yang)衣及圖紙；

2、針距：11-13針/3cm明(ming)線跡(ji)，12-14針/3cm暗線跡。合縫用11#機(ji)針，引(yin)線(xian)用9#機針；

3、線(xian)順(shun)(shun)色（特殊要求(qiu)除外），面(mian)線(xian)用與身(shen)順(shun)(shun)色線(xian)；

4、各部位線路(lu)要順直，縫(feng)紉(ren)線跡30cm內不(bu)得有兩處單跳(tiao)和連續(xu)跳(tiao)針，包縫線跡不(bu)允許跳(tiao)針。面、底線應(ying)松(song)緊適宜，起落都要打回(hui)針；

5、袖子抽褶：先在單衣片上抽褶，然后再(zai)充絨納線。抽褶線與肩縫對縫；

6、汽眼加隔(ge)色(se)墊(dian)布；

7、大身拉鏈要求(qiu)平整，不(bu)可起浪。門襟鏈拉頭要求(qiu)左拉右(you)插(cha)，緝(ji)0.1cm明線；

8、主標、小號釘(ding)在內里后中；水洗標在內里左側縫1/2處為標下口；

9、所有里子拼接縫要求包(bao)縫；

10、袖口內面布為勾縫；

11、兜口1CM裝飾明線先(xian)充絨后輯明線；

12、棉(mian)靠里布，帽子周(zhou)圈走0.1cm明線，帽子前口(kou)0.1+2.5cm明線。帽子底(di)口(kou)0.1明線。帽(mao)縫帶帶條。具(ju)體納線參考圖(tu)紙

13、肩縫、腋下、兜布加帶條；

14、半(ban)成品必(bi)須(xu)小燙(tang)，熨燙(tang)平(ping)服，無極光(guang)；

15、其他具體做法參考樣衣。