一、中山裝的創始人是誰
中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝是以孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)先(xian)生(sheng)的名(ming)字命名(ming)的一(yi)種服裝,被(bei)世界公認(ren)為中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國的“國服”,那(nei)么中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝誰發明的呢?
實際上,中(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)并不(bu)是(shi)中(zhong)國的(de)傳統服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang),而(er)是(shi)辛亥革命后,由(you)(you)孫中(zhong)山(shan)先生(sheng)設(she)計創新的(de)一種服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang),它(ta)是(shi)孫中(zhong)山(shan)參照(zhao)中(zhong)國原有的(de)衣褲(ku)特點,吸收南洋(yang)華僑(qiao)的(de)企領文裝(zhuang)和西裝(zhuang)樣式,本著“適于(yu)衛生(sheng)、便于(yu)動(dong)作、易于(yu)經濟、壯于(yu)觀瞻”的(de)原則(ze),親自主持設(she)計,由(you)(you)黃隆生(sheng)裁制(zhi)出的(de)一種服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)式樣。
據史(shi)料記載,1912年1月1日,孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)先生將在(zai)南京宣誓就(jiu)任(ren)中(zhong)(zhong)華民國(guo)(guo)“臨時(shi)大(da)(da)(da)總統”,即將就(jiu)職的孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)先生感(gan)到,作為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)新(xin)政府(fu)的領導人(ren)穿著(zhu)西(xi)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)不大(da)(da)(da)合適,而穿著(zhu)中(zhong)(zhong)國(guo)(guo)的傳(chuan)統服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(對(dui)襟(jin)式短衫褂、大(da)(da)(da)襟(jin)式長衫等(deng)),也不合適,于是(shi)他就(jiu)以當(dang)時(shi)在(zai)南洋華僑中(zhong)(zhong)較為(wei)流(liu)行的服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)上衣(yi)和(he)西(xi)褲為(wei)參照,自己設計了一種(zhong)獨(du)特(te)的服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)式樣,即中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)。
二、第一套中山裝是誰制作的
中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)是孫(sun)中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)先生設計(ji)發明的(de)一種服裝(zhuang)式樣,而(er)協助孫(sun)中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)完成(cheng)首套(tao)中(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)制作的(de)裁縫是誰,有兩種說法:
1、黃隆生
一種(zhong)說法認為(wei)首套(tao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝是黃隆(long)生(sheng)制作(zuo)的,他是廣東人,原為(wei)越南華(hua)僑,在河內開隆(long)生(sheng)洋(yang)服(fu)店。孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)早(zao)年到(dao)河內組(zu)建(jian)興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會時(shi),一次偶然進入(ru)該店購物,與黃攀談。黃初(chu)識孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan),極為(wei)敬(jing)佩,當即決定參加該組(zu)織,為(wei)革命出錢出力(li)。參加興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會后(hou),黃隆(long)生(sheng)隨(sui)孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)回到(dao)國內,曾在中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)華(hua)民國大(da)元(yuan)帥府任職。孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)設(she)計中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝時(shi),想到(dao)了黃隆(long)生(sheng),并請他幫助縫(feng)制。黃接過孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)設(she)計的方案(an),抓緊制作(zuo),很快世界上第一套(tao)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)裝便誕生(sheng)了。
2、黃才運
還有(you)一種說法認為(wei),首套(tao)中(zhong)山裝是“榮(rong)昌(chang)(chang)祥(xiang)”的(de)裁(cai)縫黃才(cai)(cai)運制作的(de)。辛(xin)亥(hai)革(ge)命后,孫中(zhong)山慕名到(dao)國(guo)內(nei)有(you)名的(de)裁(cai)縫店“榮(rong)昌(chang)(chang)祥(xiang)”定制了(le)幾套(tao)西服(fu)(fu),十(shi)分滿(man)意。就拿了(le)一件(jian)日(ri)本(ben)陸軍士(shi)官服(fu)(fu)對王才(cai)(cai)運說:“我(wo)去日(ri)本(ben),日(ri)本(ben)朋友(you)夸我(wo)身上西裝做得(de)好(hao),以為(wei)是美(mei)國(guo)貨,看了(le)‘榮(rong)昌(chang)(chang)祥(xiang)’的(de)牌子才(cai)(cai)相(xiang)信是中(zhong)國(guo)貨。‘榮(rong)昌(chang)(chang)祥(xiang)’為(wei)中(zhong)國(guo)人爭了(le)光!這次我(wo)想(xiang)請你們做件(jian)中(zhong)國(guo)服(fu)(fu)代表中(zhong)國(guo)人。”他又指著士(shi)官服(fu)(fu)說:“改(gai)革(ge)此服(fu)(fu),為(wei)吾(wu)所用。”
王才運根據孫中山的意思,與一些打樣、裁剪名師一起再三琢磨、幾經試樣、反復修改,把原來的10粒扣改成7粒,后又改為5粒;在款式上改為直翻領、四貼袋、倒山筆架式帶蓋;在袖口加3粒紐扣,防止磨損,美觀大方。服裝制成后由孫先生試穿,既簡樸又莊重,且具備西服的特點,孫中山十分滿意。王才運即為這套服裝定型,取名“中山裝”。