一、中山裝的創始人是誰
中(zhong)(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)是以孫中(zhong)(zhong)山先(xian)生的名(ming)字(zi)命(ming)名(ming)的一種服裝(zhuang)(zhuang),被世界(jie)公認為(wei)中(zhong)(zhong)國的“國服”,那么中(zhong)(zhong)山裝(zhuang)(zhuang)誰發明(ming)的呢?
實際上,中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝并不是中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國的(de)(de)(de)傳統服(fu)裝,而是辛亥革命后(hou),由(you)(you)孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)先生(sheng)設計(ji)(ji)創新(xin)的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)種服(fu)裝,它(ta)是孫中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)參(can)照中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)國原有的(de)(de)(de)衣褲(ku)特點,吸(xi)收南洋華僑(qiao)的(de)(de)(de)企領(ling)文裝和西裝樣(yang)式(shi)(shi),本著(zhu)“適(shi)于衛(wei)生(sheng)、便于動作、易于經濟(ji)、壯于觀瞻”的(de)(de)(de)原則,親自(zi)主持設計(ji)(ji),由(you)(you)黃隆生(sheng)裁(cai)制出的(de)(de)(de)一(yi)種服(fu)裝式(shi)(shi)樣(yang)。
據史料記載(zai),1912年1月(yue)1日(ri),孫(sun)中(zhong)山先(xian)生(sheng)將在南(nan)(nan)京宣誓就任中(zhong)華民國(guo)(guo)“臨時(shi)大(da)總統”,即將就職(zhi)的(de)孫(sun)中(zhong)山先(xian)生(sheng)感到,作(zuo)為中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)新政府(fu)的(de)領導人(ren)穿(chuan)著西裝(zhuang)不(bu)大(da)合適,而穿(chuan)著中(zhong)國(guo)(guo)的(de)傳統服裝(zhuang)(對襟(jin)(jin)式(shi)短衫褂、大(da)襟(jin)(jin)式(shi)長衫等),也(ye)不(bu)合適,于是他就以(yi)當時(shi)在南(nan)(nan)洋華僑中(zhong)較為流(liu)行的(de)服裝(zhuang)上(shang)衣和西褲為參(can)照,自己設計了一種獨特的(de)服裝(zhuang)式(shi)樣,即中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)。
二、第一套中山裝是誰制作的
中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)是(shi)孫中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)先生(sheng)設計(ji)發明的(de)一種服裝(zhuang)式樣,而協(xie)助孫中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)完成首(shou)套中(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)裝(zhuang)制(zhi)作的(de)裁縫(feng)是(shi)誰,有兩種說(shuo)法:
1、黃隆生
一(yi)(yi)(yi)種(zhong)說法認為首套中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)是(shi)黃(huang)隆(long)生(sheng)制作的,他是(shi)廣東人,原為越南華僑(qiao),在河內(nei)開隆(long)生(sheng)洋(yang)服店。孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)早年到河內(nei)組建興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會時,一(yi)(yi)(yi)次(ci)偶然(ran)進入該(gai)店購物(wu),與黃(huang)攀(pan)談。黃(huang)初識孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),極為敬佩,當即決定參(can)加該(gai)組織(zhi),為革命出錢出力。參(can)加興(xing)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)會后,黃(huang)隆(long)生(sheng)隨孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)回(hui)到國內(nei),曾在中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)華民國大元帥府任職(zhi)。孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)設計中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)時,想到了黃(huang)隆(long)生(sheng),并請(qing)他幫(bang)助縫制。黃(huang)接過孫(sun)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)設計的方(fang)案,抓(zhua)緊制作,很快世界上(shang)第一(yi)(yi)(yi)套中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)裝(zhuang)便誕生(sheng)了。
2、黃才運
還有一種說法認為(wei)(wei),首套中(zhong)山裝(zhuang)是(shi)(shi)“榮昌(chang)祥(xiang)(xiang)”的(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)縫黃才運(yun)制作(zuo)的(de)(de)(de)。辛亥革(ge)命后,孫中(zhong)山慕名(ming)到國(guo)內有名(ming)的(de)(de)(de)裁(cai)縫店“榮昌(chang)祥(xiang)(xiang)”定制了幾套西(xi)服(fu)(fu)(fu),十分滿(man)意。就拿了一件(jian)日(ri)本陸軍(jun)士(shi)官服(fu)(fu)(fu)對王才運(yun)說:“我(wo)去日(ri)本,日(ri)本朋友(you)夸我(wo)身(shen)上西(xi)裝(zhuang)做(zuo)得好,以(yi)為(wei)(wei)是(shi)(shi)美國(guo)貨(huo),看了‘榮昌(chang)祥(xiang)(xiang)’的(de)(de)(de)牌子才相信是(shi)(shi)中(zhong)國(guo)貨(huo)。‘榮昌(chang)祥(xiang)(xiang)’為(wei)(wei)中(zhong)國(guo)人爭了光!這次我(wo)想請(qing)你們(men)做(zuo)件(jian)中(zhong)國(guo)服(fu)(fu)(fu)代表中(zhong)國(guo)人。”他又指著(zhu)士(shi)官服(fu)(fu)(fu)說:“改革(ge)此服(fu)(fu)(fu),為(wei)(wei)吾(wu)所用。”
王才運根據孫中山的意思,與一些打樣、裁剪名師一起再三琢磨、幾經試樣、反復修改,把原來的10粒扣改成7粒,后又改為5粒;在款式上改為直翻領、四貼袋、倒山筆架式帶蓋;在袖口加3粒紐扣,防止磨損,美觀大方。服裝制成后由孫先生試穿,既簡樸又莊重,且具備西服的特點,孫中山十分滿意。王才運即為這套服裝定型,取名“中山裝”。