容(rong)美土(tu)司遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)位于(yu)湖(hu)北省恩施州(zhou)鶴峰縣(xian),分布在(zai)5個鄉鎮(zhen)7個行政(zheng)村,涉及面積(ji)達510多萬平方米。現存(cun)遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)主(zhu)要有中府、爵(jue)府、司署(shu)、南府等(deng)行署(shu)遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),戲樓、小昆(kun)侖、細(xi)柳城(cheng)(cheng)等(deng)文化娛樂(le)遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),萬全洞(dong)(dong)、萬人(ren)洞(dong)(dong)、晴(qing)田(tian)峒、燕喜洞(dong)(dong)、天泉山等(deng)軍事設施遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),九峰橋(qiao)、百順橋(qiao)等(deng)橋(qiao)梁(liang)遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),紫云山祭祀遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),土(tu)司家族(zu)和(he)向氏家族(zu)墓地(di)(di)等(deng)等(deng)。其中最大的屏山爵(jue)府遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)位于(yu)縣(xian)城(cheng)(cheng)容(rong)美鎮(zhen)東10余公里處的屏山寨上(shang),于(yu)明萬歷(li)年間所建。屏山爵(jue)府遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)現有大堂(tang)、二堂(tang)、閱兵臺、跑馬場、花(hua)園、土(tu)牢等(deng)遺(yi)存(cun)。城(cheng)(cheng)西懸(xuan)崖(ya)上(shang)的山洞(dong)(dong),是(shi)土(tu)司田(tian)舜年藏書之地(di)(di)。洞(dong)(dong)側的炮臺、碑記至今可見。
歷史上,容美田氏土(tu)司(si)雄踞恩施一(yi)方,實力(li)強,影響(xiang)大(da),即使到容美土(tu)司(si)末期(qi),雍正皇帝仍然認為:“楚蜀各土(tu)司(si),惟容美最為富強”。
容美土(tu)(tu)司所在(zai)的鶴峰縣,喀斯特(te)地貌廣布(bu),溶洞(dong)眾(zhong)多。為防(fang)止流(liu)寇(kou)襲擾,容美土(tu)(tu)司通常會利用(yong)險要(yao)的地勢,在(zai)大型(xing)洞(dong)穴內(nei)構筑防(fang)御建(jian)筑。在(zai)洞(dong)穴內(nei)部建(jian)設有(you)許多大型(xing)遺(yi)跡(ji),正是容美土(tu)(tu)司遺(yi)址不同(tong)于(yu)其他土(tu)(tu)司遺(yi)址的最大特(te)色。這(zhe)也(ye)給(gei)考(kao)古工作(zuo)者遺(yi)址勘探,相關部門保護和旅游(you)開發帶(dai)來一定難度。
2006年5月(yue),容(rong)(rong)美土(tu)司城遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)被國務院公布為第(di)六(liu)批全國重點文物保護單(dan)位(wei)。2015年,恩施州咸豐縣唐崖土(tu)司城遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)申(shen)遺(yi)成功,容(rong)(rong)美土(tu)司城也(ye)被列入“世界文化(hua)遺(yi)產——土(tu)司遺(yi)址(zhi)(zhi)”項目(mu)的(de)補充進行申(shen)報。
爵府遺(yi)址位于鶴峰(feng)縣(xian)容(rong)美鎮屏(ping)(ping)山村二組(zu),處于屏(ping)(ping)山天險的下(xia)屏(ping)(ping)山。下(xia)屏(ping)(ping)山四周峭壁(bi)千仞,深溝巨(ju)峽,是防御的天然屏(ping)(ping)障。清人顧彩曾發出驚嘆“:鳴呼!蜀道難其難,未必如屏(ping)(ping)山!”。遺(yi)址南距鶴峰(feng)縣(xian)城約(yue)(yue)12.5公里,東南距小昆侖(lun)遺(yi)址約(yue)(yue)500米(mi),西(xi)南距鳴虎山遺(yi)址約(yue)(yue)150米(mi)。南為懸(xuan)崖峭壁(bi),北為中屏(ping)(ping)山,西(xi)為溇(lou)水(shui)(掛(gua)板巖),東為躲(duo)避峽。地理坐(zuo)標北緯29°56′16.4″,東經110°04′27.5″,海拔(ba)高程799 米(mi)。
最高海(hai)拔1800米,南(nan)北長(chang)近20公(gong)里(li),中部東西寬(kuan)不到5公(gong)里(li),地形狹長(chang),山頂較平緩,四周峰(feng)巒(luan)與河谷(gu)底部高差均在1000米左右,十分險峻。 這(zhe)里(li)的自然環境優(you)美,生態原始。
屏山(shan)絕壁千仞,自古“蜀道(dao)(dao)難,難于上青天(tian)”,但(dan)是(shi)屏山(shan)和(he)蜀道(dao)(dao)相比,有過之而無不及(ji)。康熙(xi)四(si)十三年,公元1704年,詩人、戲劇家顧彩曾(ceng)受(shou)土司王田舜(shun)年之邀在(zai)屏山(shan)游(you)玩(wan),留下“蜀道(dao)(dao)難其(qi)難,未必如屏山(shan)”的浩(hao)嘆。山(shan)勢陡峭(qiao),上屏山(shan)沒有大道(dao)(dao)直通山(shan)頂,要上屏山(shan)必須經過鐵(tie)索橋(qiao)。鐵(tie)索橋(qiao)是(shi)屏山(shan)最險處,架于兩崖之間,遠遠看去,像架在(zai)天(tian)上,因(yin)而美名曰(yue)“天(tian)心橋(qiao)”。站在(zai)橋(qiao)上,向下俯瞰,下面是(shi)一泓幽深的碧(bi)水(shui),幽邃恐(kong)怖,不禁(jin)讓人毛骨悚然。
屏(ping)山爵(jue)府(fu)是遺(yi)留(liu)下來的一座(zuo)土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)遺(yi)址。相傳(chuan)容美土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)曾在(zai)此繁衍生息400多年,在(zai)楚蜀諸土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)中最(zui)為富強。田氏土(tu)(tu)王世襲相承,在(zai)此經營修建(jian)了規模宏大的爵(jue)府(fu)建(jian)筑群,屏(ping)山爵(jue)府(fu)土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)遺(yi)址已(yi)經成為最(zui)具有代(dai)表(biao)性的容美土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)遺(yi)址。當代(dai)民族學(xue)專(zhuan)家(jia)向國平先生在(zai)其(qi)《平山爵(jue)府(fu)尋古》一文(wen)中告訴我(wo)們:“平山爵(jue)府(fu),始建(jian)于明代(dai),為土(tu)(tu)司(si)(si)田玄(田舜年之(zhi)祖父)所構(gou)。屏(ping)山遺(yi)址中的爵(jue)府(fu)約1200平米(mi),尚存司(si)(si)署、街(jie)道(dao)、大堂、中堂、“山高水長(chang)”摩崖石刻等建(jian)筑遺(yi)跡。
萬全洞(dong)位于鶴峰縣容(rong)美鎮屏山(shan)(shan)村四組、溇水河東岸懸崖中部,距離山(shan)(shan)頂約100米,距離河面約300米。萬全洞(dong)時容(rong)美土司在屏山(shan)(shan)的(de)最后防(fang)線。?
康熙二(er)十二(er)年(nian)(nian)(1683)土(tu)(tu)(tu)王田(tian)舜年(nian)(nian)主持修建。洞高60米,深約50米,內寬(kuan)40米,洞口(kou)呈(cheng)圓型,入口(kou)處(chu)有(you)巨石砌(qi)成(cheng)的(de)臺(tai)基、石門、石墻,洞口(kou)石壁(bi)上(shang)(shang)鐫刻有(you)田(tian)舜年(nian)(nian)寫的(de)“萬全(quan)洞記”。右(you)側(ce)靠入口(kou)的(de)上(shang)(shang)方(fang)像碉(diao)堡(bao)的(de)石臺(tai),是(shi)(shi)(shi)守洞的(de)關卡。洞內有(you)各(ge)種(zhong)形狀的(de)鐘乳石,千姿百態,泉水細(xi)流從巖縫口(kou)滲出,積水而(er)成(cheng)一(yi)洼(wa)洼(wa)小(xiao)井(jing)。洞內“可(ke)容千人,左邊(bian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)就(jiu)月(yue)軒,右(you)邊(bian)是(shi)(shi)(shi)愛日亭(ting),中(zhong)間(jian)為大士閣”。深處(chu)有(you)“魏(wei)博(bo)樓”,立有(you)容美(mei)(mei)(mei)土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)先人魏(wei)博(bo)節度使田(tian)弘(hong)正(zheng)(zheng)偶像牌位等。這些(xie)洞府建筑遺址依稀尚存。洞壁(bi)兩(liang)側(ce),有(you)很多人工開鑿的(de)石埒、石杵,應該是(shi)(shi)(shi)當年(nian)(nian)建筑亭(ting)臺(tai)樓閣的(de)佐證。據記載(zai),康熙年(nian)(nian)間(jian),容美(mei)(mei)(mei)土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)田(tian)舜年(nian)(nian)帶領土(tu)(tu)(tu)民建成(cheng)亭(ting)臺(tai)樓閣和(he)入洞棧道,以此作為防守堡(bao)壘。雍正(zheng)(zheng)年(nian)(nian)間(jian),清兵(bing)進入容美(mei)(mei)(mei)時,末(mo)代土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)田(tian)旻(min)如在洞內自(zi)縊(yi)。這里不僅是(shi)(shi)(shi)當年(nian)(nian)土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)的(de)防御工事,而(er)且是(shi)(shi)(shi)土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)藏書之處(chu),也是(shi)(shi)(shi)末(mo)代土(tu)(tu)(tu)王田(tian)旻(min)如自(zi)縊(yi)的(de)地(di)方(fang)。清代詩(shi)(shi)人顧(gu)彩就(jiu)曾自(zi)到(dao)洞中(zhong),會見(jian)土(tu)(tu)(tu)司(si)田(tian)舜年(nian)(nian),并寫下許多詩(shi)(shi)句,如:“一(yi)磴懸絲(si)下太空,巨鰲(ao)張吻白云中(zhong)。”
萬人洞(dong),位于鶴峰縣(xian)容美鎮廟(miao)灣村,地處龍溪潭頭(tou),位于縣(xian)城東(dong)北4公里處。
清代順治五年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1648),土司田(tian)甘霖在萬人洞(dong)始建洞(dong)府(fu)。清康熙三(san)十七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(1698)土王田(tian)舜年(nian)(nian)(nian)主持重(zhong)修,后被譽為“磐石重(zhong)城”。
洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)檐高25米(mi)、寬20米(mi),呈橢圓(yuan)形。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口象巨龍騰飛,騰云(yun)駕(jia)霧,陰風怒號,萬(wan)(wan)人(ren)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)共有兩道屏(ping)障(zhang):洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)外筑(zhu)(zhu)有寬3米(mi)、高4米(mi)、厚約4米(mi)的一堵巍峨(e)城(cheng)(cheng)門(men),為(wei)第一道屏(ping)障(zhang)。城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)為(wei)石(shi)條筑(zhu)(zhu)成,城(cheng)(cheng)墻(qiang)把石(shi)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)封得(de)很(hen)嚴密,上面刻有“萬(wan)(wan)人(ren)洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)記”碑文,是土王田舜年(nian)(nian)撰寫的。過城(cheng)(cheng)門(men)后向前5米(mi)處有一道封洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)式的石(shi)墻(qiang),為(wei)第二屏(ping)障(zhang)。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)內(nei)寬敞(chang)空曠,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)深數十里(li),洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)頂有水滴(di)常年(nian)(nian)滴(di)落,如擊缽之聲,清脆(cui)悅耳。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)內(nei)有土王床、石(shi)板橋、挹(yi)泉(quan)軒(xuan)、龍淵、七(qi)級石(shi)梯、十里(li)畫廊、四十八丘田、望水樓、水繞都城(cheng)(cheng)、老龍磨珠等(deng)景觀。
清代文(wen)人顧彩在《容美紀(ji)游》中記載的萬人洞(dong)(dong)如(ru)下(xia)(xia):“二十(shi)(shi)七(qi)日,游萬人洞(dong)(dong)。(行署(shu)東(dong),下(xia)(xia)坡(po)(po)三里(li))洞(dong)(dong)在坡(po)(po)下(xia)(xia),磴道一里(li),渡水(shui)一重。洞(dong)(dong)口(kou)有街,有門樓,守洞(dong)(dong)者(zhe)家焉。 客至具酒果(guo),食(shi)畢(bi)登洞(dong)(dong)。其(qi)(qi)石(shi)如(ru)古銅(tong)色,多孔竅。處處可坐,游人高下(xia)(xia)憩其(qi)(qi)間,如(ru)仙人屏障(zhang)。最高處有砦(zhai)樓,梯懸十(shi)(shi)仞,攀之惴惴。砦(zhai)上(shang)亦有人居,其(qi)(qi)道由石(shi)壁(bi)中曲盤而上(shang)。甚(shen)幽黑,莫之敢(gan)躡。正(zheng)中有挹泉(quan)軒,甚(shen)爽塏,四壁(bi)多題(ti)詠。軒后即(ji)龍(long)湫(qiu),水(shui)純碧,上(shang)有橋可渡,今(jin)橋圯(yi),游止于(yu)此(ci),后洞(dong)(dong)不可復到(dao)也,水(shui)淺時出白骨如(ru)牛(niu)膊,潔白堅剛,散布(bu)沙間,或曰此(ci)龍(long)骨也,天(tian)旱取(qu)投(tou)湫(qiu)中,滃(weng)然鳴(ming),天(tian)乃雨。”?
田舜年(nian)所撰《萬人(ren)洞(dong)記》碑文如下(xia):“左(zuo)右兩洞(dong),輔車天相。肇始戊子,吾民(min)保障。綠林頻窺,莫(mo)敢正向(xiang)。自余承(cheng)緒,首來閱視,見其頹城(cheng)(cheng),拳(quan)石(shi)兒戲,別圖(tu)營構(gou),另載厥(jue)記。后(hou)城(cheng)(cheng)細(xi)柳,乃再來觀。心斯在茲,尚未(wei)遑(huang)焉(yan)。及今(jin)戊寅,方克(ke)力(li)專(zhuan)。霜降(jiang)前(qian)后(hou),全力(li)是肩。感天造(zao)就,磐石(shi)重城(cheng)(cheng)。樓臺庵觀,比(bi)比(bi)皆成。官民(min)永賴(lai),萬年(nian)隆興。勒(le)石(shi)紀略,于城(cheng)(cheng)之門。 時 康熙(xi)三十(shi)七年(nian)菊月二十(shi)三日 容陽尹 驃騎將(jiang)軍(jun)田舜年(nian)九(jiu)峰甫撰 應襲中營 炳(bing)如,次男 旻如、琨如、曜如、暢如,庶孫(sun)圓南(nan)。”
位于鶴峰(feng)縣太平鎮唐家村七組、大寨峰(feng)西側峭壁上,為天然石灰巖溶洞。
洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口面(mian)西,呈紡(fang)錘形,洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)內支洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)繁多,有暗河(he)和(he)天坑。主洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)左(zuo)側有一洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),右側有數個小洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong),可相互連通。洞(dong)(dong)(dong)(dong)口外(wai)的(de)石(shi)壁上刻(ke)(ke)有《情(qing)田峒記》石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)及(ji)容美土司田舜(shun)年撰寫的(de)《捷音者序》石(shi)刻(ke)(ke)。