菜品典故
據(ju)《如(ru)夢錄》載(zai):明代(dai)開封(feng)每(mei)逢 農(nong)歷二月初二,所(suo)謂“龍(long)(long)抬頭”之(zhi)日,為(wei)(wei)呈吉祥,官府、民間都以細面(mian)(mian)相贈(zeng),稱(cheng)之(zhi)為(wei)(wei)“龍(long)(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)”。起初面(mian)(mian)用(yong)水(shui)煮食(shi),后來,不斷改進(jin),過油(you)炸(zha)焦,使其(qi)(qi)蓬松酥脆(cui),吸汁后,配菜肴(yao)同食(shi),故稱(cheng)“焙面(mian)(mian)”。 1930年前后,開封(feng)名師最早將(jiang)用(yong)油(you)炸(zha)過的“龍(long)(long)須(xu)面(mian)(mian)”,蓋在做好(hao)的“糖(tang)(tang)醋熘(liu)魚(yu)”上(shang)面(mian)(mian),創作了“糖(tang)(tang)醋熘(liu)魚(yu)帶焙面(mian)(mian)”名菜,深為(wei)(wei)顧(gu)客歡迎。將(jiang)二者(zhe)合(he)面(mian)(mian)為(wei)(wei)一,即可食(shi)魚(yu),又可以面(mian)(mian)蘸(zhan)汁,故別有(you)風味。后來,拉面(mian)(mian)傳入開封(feng),人(ren)們用(yong)拉面(mian)(mian)油(you)炸(zha)后和(he)熘(liu)魚(yu)搭配起來,使其(qi)(qi)更(geng)為(wei)(wei)錦上(shang)添花。“糖(tang)(tang)醋熘(liu)魚(yu)”味道(dao)(dao)之(zhi)鮮美(mei)(mei)(mei),妙在一道(dao)(dao)菜肴(yao),兩(liang)種食(shi)趣(qu)。有(you)“先食(shi)龍(long)(long)肉,后食(shi)龍(long)(long)須(xu)”之(zhi)美(mei)(mei)(mei)譽,成為(wei)(wei)宴席上(shang)必(bi)不可少的一道(dao)(dao)美(mei)(mei)(mei)味佳肴(yao)。
傳統佳肴
"開封溜(liu)魚焙面(mian)(mian)"是開封的(de)傳統(tong)依(yi)然隹肴之(zhi)一,久負(fu)盛(sheng)名。焙面(mian)(mian)也稱(cheng)龍(long)須(xu)(xu)面(mian)(mian)。據《如夢錄》記載:明清時(shi),開封每年農(nong)歷二月初二,稱(cheng)為(wei)"龍(long)抬頭","筵客吃(chi)龍(long)須(xu)(xu)面(mian)(mian),節禮送面(mian)(mian)"。當(dang)時(shi)制(zhi)作"龍(long)須(xu)(xu)面(mian)(mian)"。只是用(yong)水煮熟,后改炎焙制(zhi)的(de)方法(fa)。故稱(cheng)為(wei)"焙面(mian)(mian)"。
鯉魚焙(bei)(bei)面是(shi)開(kai)封(feng)傳統-名菜,由"糖醋熘魚"和(he)"焙(bei)(bei)龍須面"兩道名菜配制而成。傳說,清(qing)代慈禧(xi)太后逃(tao)難(nan)時停留在開(kai)封(feng),開(kai)封(feng)府(fu)名廚貢(gong)奉"糖醋熘魚"和(he)"焙(bei)(bei)面"。慈禧(xi)見(jian)狀后,心血來潮說道,鯉魚靜(jing)躺盤中,大概是(shi)睡著(zhu)了,應該給(gei)它蓋上被子,免得受涼。隨之起筷將"焙(bei)(bei)面"覆蓋魚身,"鯉魚焙(bei)(bei)面"從(cong)此傳為佳肴了。其特點是(shi)色澤棗(zao)紅(hong),軟嫩(nen)鮮香;焙(bei)(bei)面細如發絲,蓬松酥脆(cui)。
制作方法
一(yi)、魚(yu)去(qu)鱗、挖鰓、去(qu)內臟、洗凈,兩面解成(cheng)月牙(ya)形備用(一(yi)邊7~8刀)。炒鍋置中火上(shang),加(jia)入花生油(1500克),六成(cheng)熱時將魚(yu)下鍋炸制,連續頓火(把鍋從火上(shang)拉過(guo)來)幾次,待魚(yu)炸透后再(zai)上(shang)火,油溫升高后撈出控油;
二、凈(jing)鍋置(zhi)旺(wang)火上,加入(ru)清水(shui),放(fang)入(ru)白糖、醋、料酒、精(jing)鹽(5克(ke))、姜汁、蔥花,勾入(ru)濕淀(dian)粉(fen),用勺不斷(duan)攪動,汁沸(fei)后(hou),下50克(ke)熱油,然后(hou)將汁澆到魚身上;
三、白面粉兌入(ru)精鹽(yan)(3克)、堿,和成(cheng)面團,蘸水在案(an)板上(shang)反復搓揉,至(zhi)面發筋時(shi),搓成(cheng)長條(tiao),反復拉至(zhi)12環(12根),細如發絲,截(jie)去兩頭取中(zhong)間一段(約50克),放入(ru)油中(zhong)炸至(zhi)柿黃色(se)撈出,裝入(ru)盤中(zhong),即可同黃河鯉魚一同上(shang)桌。