菜品典故
據《如(ru)夢錄》載:明代開(kai)封(feng)每逢 農歷二月初二,所(suo)謂“龍抬頭”之日,為呈吉祥,官府(fu)、民間都以細(xi)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)相贈(zeng),稱(cheng)之為“龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。起(qi)(qi)初面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)用水(shui)煮食(shi)(shi)(shi),后(hou)(hou)來,不斷改進(jin),過油(you)炸(zha)焦,使其蓬松(song)酥脆,吸汁(zhi)后(hou)(hou),配菜肴同食(shi)(shi)(shi),故(gu)稱(cheng)“焙面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”。 1930年前(qian)后(hou)(hou),開(kai)封(feng)名師最早將用油(you)炸(zha)過的(de)(de)“龍須面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”,蓋(gai)在(zai)做好的(de)(de)“糖(tang)醋(cu)熘(liu)魚(yu)”上面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),創(chuang)作了“糖(tang)醋(cu)熘(liu)魚(yu)帶焙面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)”名菜,深為顧客歡迎。將二者合(he)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)為一(yi),即可(ke)食(shi)(shi)(shi)魚(yu),又(you)可(ke)以面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)蘸汁(zhi),故(gu)別(bie)有風味(wei)。后(hou)(hou)來,拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)傳入開(kai)封(feng),人(ren)們用拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)油(you)炸(zha)后(hou)(hou)和熘(liu)魚(yu)搭配起(qi)(qi)來,使其更為錦(jin)上添花。“糖(tang)醋(cu)熘(liu)魚(yu)”味(wei)道(dao)之鮮美,妙在(zai)一(yi)道(dao)菜肴,兩種食(shi)(shi)(shi)趣(qu)。有“先食(shi)(shi)(shi)龍肉,后(hou)(hou)食(shi)(shi)(shi)龍須”之美譽,成為宴(yan)席(xi)上必不可(ke)少的(de)(de)一(yi)道(dao)美味(wei)佳肴。
傳統佳肴
"開封(feng)溜魚焙(bei)(bei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)"是開封(feng)的(de)傳統依(yi)然(ran)隹(zhui)肴之一,久(jiu)負盛(sheng)名。焙(bei)(bei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)稱(cheng)龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)。據(ju)《如夢錄》記載:明清(qing)時,開封(feng)每(mei)年農歷二月初二,稱(cheng)為(wei)"龍抬頭","筵客吃(chi)龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian),節禮送面(mian)(mian)(mian)"。當時制作"龍須(xu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)"。只是用(yong)水煮(zhu)熟,后改炎焙(bei)(bei)制的(de)方法。故稱(cheng)為(wei)"焙(bei)(bei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)"。
鯉魚(yu)焙面(mian)是(shi)開封傳統(tong)-名(ming)菜,由"糖醋熘(liu)魚(yu)"和(he)"焙龍(long)須(xu)面(mian)"兩道名(ming)菜配制(zhi)而成。傳說(shuo),清代慈(ci)禧太后(hou)逃(tao)難(nan)時停留在開封,開封府名(ming)廚貢奉"糖醋熘(liu)魚(yu)"和(he)"焙面(mian)"。慈(ci)禧見狀后(hou),心血來潮(chao)說(shuo)道,鯉魚(yu)靜躺盤中,大概是(shi)睡著(zhu)了,應該給它蓋上被子,免得受(shou)涼。隨之起筷(kuai)將"焙面(mian)"覆蓋魚(yu)身,"鯉魚(yu)焙面(mian)"從此傳為(wei)佳肴(yao)了。其特點是(shi)色(se)澤棗紅(hong),軟嫩鮮香(xiang);焙面(mian)細如發(fa)絲,蓬(peng)松酥脆。
制作方法
一、魚去(qu)鱗、挖鰓、去(qu)內臟、洗凈,兩面解成(cheng)月牙形(xing)備(bei)用(一邊7~8刀)。炒鍋(guo)置中火上(shang),加入花生(sheng)油(you)(1500克(ke)),六成(cheng)熱時將魚下鍋(guo)炸(zha)制(zhi),連續頓火(把鍋(guo)從(cong)火上(shang)拉過來)幾次,待魚炸(zha)透后再上(shang)火,油(you)溫升高后撈出(chu)控油(you);
二、凈(jing)鍋置(zhi)旺火上(shang),加入(ru)(ru)清水,放入(ru)(ru)白糖、醋、料酒、精(jing)鹽(yan)(5克)、姜汁(zhi)(zhi)、蔥(cong)花,勾入(ru)(ru)濕(shi)淀粉(fen),用勺不斷(duan)攪動,汁(zhi)(zhi)沸后,下(xia)50克熱(re)油,然后將汁(zhi)(zhi)澆(jiao)到(dao)魚(yu)身上(shang);
三(san)、白面(mian)粉兌入(ru)精鹽(3克)、堿,和(he)成(cheng)面(mian)團(tuan),蘸水(shui)在案(an)板上反復(fu)搓(cuo)揉,至面(mian)發(fa)筋時,搓(cuo)成(cheng)長條(tiao),反復(fu)拉至12環(12根),細如發(fa)絲,截去(qu)兩頭取中(zhong)間一段(duan)(約50克),放入(ru)油中(zhong)炸至柿(shi)黃色撈出,裝入(ru)盤中(zhong),即(ji)可同黃河鯉魚一同上桌。