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相傳(chuan)，嘗取石脂(zhi)于(yu)此(ci)。左思《吳(wu)都(dou)賦》云："赤須子(zi)(zi)(zi)蟬蛻而附麗(li)。"赤須子(zi)(zi)(zi)，道教傳(chuan)說中的神仙(xian)。《文選》李善(shan)注引《列(lie)仙(xian)傳(chuan)》云："赤須子(zi)(zi)(zi)，豐人也(ye)(ye)，秦穆公(gong)之(zhi)主魚(yu)吏(li)也(ye)(ye)。數道豐界災異水(shui)旱，十不失一。食柏實、石脂(zhi)，絕谷。齒落更生，細發復出。后去之(zhi)吳(wu)山(shan)。"赤須子(zi)(zi)(zi)本非吳(wu)人，故曰"附麗(li)"于(yu)此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真觀歷史悠久，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)志》載(zai)，漢(han)代(dai)(dai)初(chu)(chu)元年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)，出身望族的茅(mao)(mao)盈、茅(mao)(mao)固、茅(mao)(mao)衷兄弟(di)三(san)(san)(san)人上(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)修(xiu)(xiu)煉皆(jie)得道(dao)(dao)(dao)，合稱三(san)(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)真君，曾修(xiu)(xiu)茅(mao)(mao)君殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)(you)(you)(you)"斷(duan)碑"殘跡(ji)，至漢(han)平帝(di)時(shi)(shi)(shi)，始建(jian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)。據《光福志》，宋天(tian)(tian)禧年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)，真宗詔天(tian)(tian)復廢業重建(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)上(shang)(shang)真道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)為(wei)(wei)觀。"天(tian)(tian)復"為(wei)(wei)唐(tang)昭宗年(nian)(nian)(nian)號，可見在唐(tang)代(dai)(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)已有(you)(you)(you)(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀。南宋時(shi)(shi)(shi)，敕平江(jiang)西郊拓(tuo)地八百畝(mu)創朝真觀，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)沈道(dao)(dao)(dao)祥(xiang)為(wei)(wei)開山(shan)(shan)之(zhi)祖。元末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火(huo)焚而毀。明初(chu)(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)有(you)(you)(you)(you)上(shang)(shang)真觀，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗多，香(xiang)火(huo)極盛(sheng)。清(qing)初(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)著名道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵棲穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)茅(mao)(mao)君故宮(gong)，鳩材修(xiu)(xiu)葺(qi)殿(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)(nian)(nian)，初(chu)(chu)其(qi)建(jian)筑群體。施(shi)曾從王(wang)常月(yue)受戒，為(wei)(wei)全真龍(long)門派(pai)第(di)八代(dai)(dai)，后(hou)改宗正(zheng)一(yi)(yi)，開創穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)支(zhi)派(pai)，于(yu)是聲名顯赫，四方征(zheng)請。(《金蓋心(xin)燈》)順(shun)治(zhi)十(shi)五年(nian)(nian)(nian)，敕賜上(shang)(shang)真院(yuan)(yuan)額，康(kang)熙(xi)初(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)又修(xiu)(xiu)筑上(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)二(er)殿(dian)(dian)及諸配(pei)殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)井泉于(yu)山(shan)(shan)門。五十(shi)三(san)(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)(nian)，重修(xiu)(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)(you)(you)三(san)(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)真君埏(shan)嗣以自置(zhi)田捐獻(xian)，為(wei)(wei)永遠(yuan)修(xiu)(xiu)建(jian)之(zhi)費(fei)。乾隆年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)，又有(you)(you)(you)(you)郡人修(xiu)(xiu)上(shang)(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)(san)茅(mao)(mao)二(er)殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)姓金者捐建(jian)大(da)士閣(ge)。乾隆元年(nian)(nian)(nian)，有(you)(you)(you)(you)里中富(fu)人重建(jian)仙師門樓(lou)，置(zhi)修(xiu)(xiu)葺(qi)田入其(qi)院(yuan)(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)(nian)又有(you)(you)(you)(you)里人捐修(xiu)(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀志》載(zai)：清(qing)初(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)間(jian)，龍(long)虎(hu)山(shan)(shan)五十(shi)三(san)(san)(san)代(dai)(dai)天(tian)(tian)師張洪任游訪(fang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)，清(qing)廷賜額"上(shang)(shang)真觀"，并賜穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵號"養(yang)元抱(bao)一(yi)(yi)宣(xuan)教演化法師"。清(qing)顧詒祿(lu)《鐵(tie)竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人畫像(xiang)》云："時(shi)(shi)(shi)吳中道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)之(zhi)盛(sheng)，首推穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)。郡城玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍(wei)然。年(nian)(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)傾，太傅(fu)金文(wen)通公延請道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵主觀復修(xiu)(xiu)。"可見當(dang)時(shi)(shi)(shi)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)之(zhi)盛(sheng)已超(chao)過了玄(xuan)妙(miao)觀。

清朝(chao)末(mo)年，上真觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)(ge)，有房(fang)二千余間，分三(san)(san)十六(liu)房(fang)分管，有宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)(ge)堂四(si)十余座(zuo)。如(ru)天妃宮、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)元(yuan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊(qi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星(xing)宿(su)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四(si)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火樨殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財(cai)神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如(ru)意軒(xuan)(xuan)、斗(dou)姆閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、魁星(xing)閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、華仙閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、七仙居、餐(can)花居、吉禪房(fang)、養和堂等等。這些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)星(xing)羅棋(qi)布，建筑宏偉；堂內神(shen)像，塑造精巧，形象逼真，栩栩如(ru)生(sheng)。

民國時(shi)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)教(jiao)殿(dian)宇(yu)除關(guan)帝(di)殿(dian)、龍王殿(dian)、呂(lv)祖殿(dian)、財神殿(dian)等外，其余均毀于大火，據穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)老法師姚臥松所述，抗日戰爭期間，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上真觀(guan)尚有(you)道(dao)士二十余人。"文革(ge)"時(shi)，殿(dian)宇(yu)全部毀壞。

自(zi)1978年后，在(zai)人民政府的(de)關(guan)懷下(xia)，蘇州穹窿山道教(jiao)(jiao)也得到復興。1991年，上真(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)在(zai)原址上恢復重(zhong)建(jian)。十多(duo)年來(lai)，在(zai)道教(jiao)(jiao)信眾的(de)支持下(xia)，先后建(jian)起(qi)了頭山門、龍王殿、玉皇殿、三清殿、望湖(hu)亭等一批道教(jiao)(jiao)建(jian)筑和景(jing)點(dian)。目(mu)前，上真(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)有(you)道士10多(duo)人。

帝王與上真觀

穹窿(long)山(shan)上真觀自施法師在(zai)順治年(nian)間(jian)擴(kuo)建后，歷(li)經康熙、道光、同治幾朝修建，規模空(kong)前，"雙(shuang)闕巍(wei)峨(e)，瓊宮(gong)璀璨，危樓杰(jie)閣聳插霄漢，遂(sui)使茲山(shan)名勝(sheng)于吳中。"清順治進士董含(han)《登穹窿(long)謁勾(gou)曲行宮(gong)》詩云："山(shan)勢(shi)(shi)岧峣(yao)欲到難，玉真宮(gong)殿擁千官(guan)。洞口斷云朝放鶴，石根(gen)晴樹(shu)暮棲鸞。金門羽客(ke)龍(long)泥(ni)印，夜禮星辰上醮(jiao)壇(tan)。"描繪了當(dang)年(nian)穹窿(long)山(shan)山(shan)勢(shi)(shi)高峻(jun)、道觀宏(hong)偉、醮(jiao)事香火之盛(sheng)況。

乾隆皇帝六次南巡(xun)，有四次去了上真(zhen)觀，曾留詩(shi)贊曰："震澤天連水，洞庭西復東，雙(shuang)眸望無盡，諸慮對(dui)宜空；三萬六千頃(qing)，春風秋(qiu)月中，五車(che)稟精氣(qi)，誰詔陸龜蒙。"此詩(shi)鐫刻立碑于(yu)穹窿望湖(hu)亭(ting)中。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵，又(you)名(ming)亮生(sheng)，號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。人(ren)稱施(shi)(shi)(shi)大法師(shi)或(huo)施(shi)(shi)(shi)煉師(shi)，蘇州橫塘人(ren)，出(chu)身貧寒，13歲上穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。爾(er)后(hou)下山(shan)(shan)(shan)闖蕩江湖，入(ru)李自成部(bu)下，旋(xuan)為大順政權樞密(mi)院工作。由于李自成部(bu)發生(sheng)內(nei)訌(hong)，自相(xiang)殘殺，導致失敗(bai)。于是(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)亮生(sheng)深感世態炎(yan)涼，看破紅塵，復回穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)隱居，深居簡(jian)出(chu)，修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)養(yang)身。當(dang)時道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀已處于衰敗(bai)境地。有(you)(you)一天，施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)正(zheng)在念(nian)玉皇經，當(dang)念(nian)到(dao)(dao)(dao)，"敕命東方，東華帝君，青騎神仙兵(bing)馬，無鞅數(shu)眾，悉令下降，覆(fu)護受持，是(shi)此(ci)經者……"時，恰巧當(dang)時清(qing)皇朝(chao)(chao)順治皇叔裕親王到(dao)(dao)(dao)蘇州盤檢(jian)太倉(cang)國帑銀兩返京，路過(guo)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)麓，隱約(yue)聽到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上人(ren)聲沸騰(teng)，劍聲馬嘶，感到(dao)(dao)(dao)好(hao)生(sheng)奇怪，此(ci)莫非是(shi)大王山(shan)(shan)(shan)不(bu)成?倒是(shi)要看個(ge)究竟(jing)。他帶了(le)兩個(ge)隨從登峰，到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)(shan)(shan)頂一看，只(zhi)見(jian)數(shu)間(jian)茅屋，里面傳出(chu)木魚雷音，不(bu)見(jian)人(ren)影馬匹。進屋僅(jin)見(jian)一位道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)正(zheng)襟危坐，口中(zhong)念(nian)念(nian)有(you)(you)詞，已感此(ci)人(ren)非同(tong)一般(ban)。良久(jiu)，皇叔終(zhong)于認出(chu)是(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)，十(shi)多年(nian)不(bu)見(jian)，兩人(ren)親密(mi)無間(jian)，促膝交談(tan)。施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)說自己已看破紅塵，覺得(de)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)能(neng)讓自己清(qing)靜修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)，實是(shi)理想(xiang)之(zhi)地，不(bu)亦(yi)樂乎?裕親王說："既如此(ci)，何(he)不(bu)增建(jian)(jian)殿宇，創其宏業?"施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)一笑："貧道(dao)(dao)(dao)哪有(you)(you)這巨資擴建(jian)(jian)。"裕親王沉(chen)思片刻(ke)說："只(zhi)要施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)籌劃何(he)數(shu)目，終(zhong)能(neng)實現(xian)，不(bu)過(guo)，道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀以建(jian)(jian)在三(san)茅峰為妥。"施(shi)(shi)(shi)法師(shi)點頭(tou)稱是(shi)。不(bu)久(jiu)，朝(chao)(chao)廷(ting)撥帑興建(jian)(jian)，到(dao)(dao)(dao)康熙三(san)年(nian)春已建(jian)(jian)成26殿及輔房(fang)樓閣數(shu)千間(jian)。

上真觀交通

上真觀坐(zuo)落(luo)于(yu)穹窿山上，乘坐(zuo)43路、64路公(gong)交車均能到達。