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相傳(chuan)，嘗取石脂于(yu)(yu)此。左(zuo)思《吳都(dou)賦(fu)》云(yun)："赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)蟬(chan)蛻(tui)而附(fu)麗(li)。"赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)，道教傳(chuan)說中的神(shen)仙。《文選》李善注引《列仙傳(chuan)》云(yun)："赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)，豐人也，秦穆(mu)公之主魚吏(li)也。數(shu)道豐界災異水旱，十不失一。食柏實、石脂，絕谷。齒落更生，細發(fa)復出。后去(qu)之吳山。"赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)本非吳人，故曰"附(fu)麗(li)"于(yu)(yu)此。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)歷(li)史悠久，據(ju)《穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志》載(zai)(zai)，漢(han)(han)代(dai)初(chu)(chu)(chu)元年(nian)(nian)(nian)間，出身望(wang)族的茅(mao)盈(ying)、茅(mao)固、茅(mao)衷兄(xiong)弟(di)三人(ren)上(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修(xiu)煉皆得道(dao)，合稱三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君，曾修(xiu)茅(mao)君殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)(you)"斷(duan)碑"殘跡，至漢(han)(han)平(ping)(ping)帝(di)(di)時，始建(jian)(jian)(jian)道(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)。據(ju)《光福志》，宋(song)天(tian)禧年(nian)(nian)(nian)間，真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)宗(zong)詔天(tian)復廢業重(zhong)(zhong)建(jian)(jian)(jian)穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)為(wei)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。"天(tian)復"為(wei)唐昭宗(zong)年(nian)(nian)(nian)號，可見(jian)在(zai)唐代(dai)穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)已有(you)(you)道(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。南宋(song)時，敕(chi)平(ping)(ping)江西郊拓地八(ba)百(bai)畝創朝真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)沈道(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之祖。元末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火(huo)焚而毀(hui)。明(ming)初(chu)(chu)(chu)，穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)有(you)(you)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗多，香火(huo)極盛(sheng)。清(qing)初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間，穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)著名道(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)淵棲穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茅(mao)君故宮，鳩材修(xiu)葺(qi)殿(dian)(dian)堂，不(bu)數年(nian)(nian)(nian)，初(chu)(chu)(chu)其建(jian)(jian)(jian)筑群體。施(shi)曾從(cong)王(wang)常月(yue)受戒，為(wei)全(quan)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)龍門派第八(ba)代(dai)，后改宗(zong)正一(yi)，開創穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)支派，于是聲名顯赫，四方征請。(《金(jin)(jin)蓋心(xin)燈(deng)》)順(shun)治(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)，敕(chi)賜(si)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)(yuan)額，康熙初(chu)(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)又修(xiu)筑上(shang)(shang)帝(di)(di)、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)及諸配殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)(jian)(jian)井(jing)泉于山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門。五(wu)十(shi)三年(nian)(nian)(nian)，重(zhong)(zhong)修(xiu)各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君埏嗣以自置田捐獻，為(wei)永遠修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)之費。乾(qian)隆(long)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間，又有(you)(you)郡(jun)人(ren)修(xiu)上(shang)(shang)帝(di)(di)、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)姓金(jin)(jin)者捐建(jian)(jian)(jian)大(da)士閣。乾(qian)隆(long)元年(nian)(nian)(nian)，有(you)(you)里中(zhong)富人(ren)重(zhong)(zhong)建(jian)(jian)(jian)仙師(shi)門樓，置修(xiu)葺(qi)田入其院(yuan)(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)(nian)又有(you)(you)里人(ren)捐修(xiu)各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。據(ju)《玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)志》載(zai)(zai)：清(qing)初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)間，龍虎山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三代(dai)天(tian)師(shi)張洪任(ren)游訪穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)，清(qing)廷(ting)賜(si)額"上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)"，并賜(si)穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)淵號"養元抱一(yi)宣教演化(hua)法師(shi)"。清(qing)顧詒祿《鐵(tie)竹道(dao)人(ren)畫像(xiang)》云："時吳中(zhong)道(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)之盛(sheng)，首推穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)。郡(jun)城玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍然(ran)。年(nian)(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)傾，太傅金(jin)(jin)文通公延(yan)請道(dao)淵主觀(guan)(guan)(guan)復修(xiu)。"可見(jian)當時穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之盛(sheng)已超過了玄(xuan)妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。

清朝末年，上真(zhen)觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂軒閣(ge)(ge)(ge)，有房(fang)二千余間，分(fen)三(san)十六房(fang)分(fen)管，有宮(gong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒閣(ge)(ge)(ge)堂四十余座。如(ru)天(tian)妃宮(gong)、祖師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽(yang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄(xuan)帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌(chang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙(yi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)(shen)虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星(xing)宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)(shen)農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火樨殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都(dou)土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如(ru)意軒、斗姆閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、魁星(xing)閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、華仙(xian)閣(ge)(ge)(ge)、七(qi)仙(xian)居(ju)、餐(can)花居(ju)、吉禪房(fang)、養和(he)堂等等。這(zhe)些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星(xing)羅棋布，建筑宏偉(wei)；堂內(nei)神(shen)(shen)像(xiang)，塑(su)造(zao)精(jing)巧，形象(xiang)逼真(zhen)，栩(xu)栩(xu)如(ru)生。

民(min)國時，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)道教殿(dian)宇除(chu)關帝殿(dian)、龍王(wang)殿(dian)、呂祖(zu)殿(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)等(deng)外，其余(yu)(yu)均(jun)毀于大火，據(ju)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)老法師(shi)姚臥松所述，抗(kang)日戰爭期間，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上真觀(guan)尚有道士(shi)二(er)十余(yu)(yu)人。"文(wen)革"時，殿(dian)宇全部毀壞。

自1978年(nian)后(hou)，在(zai)(zai)人(ren)民政府(fu)的關(guan)懷下(xia)，蘇州(zhou)穹窿山道教(jiao)也得(de)到復興。1991年(nian)，上真(zhen)觀(guan)在(zai)(zai)原址上恢復重建。十多年(nian)來，在(zai)(zai)道教(jiao)信(xin)眾的支持下(xia)，先后(hou)建起了頭山門(men)、龍(long)王殿、玉皇(huang)殿、三清殿、望(wang)湖亭等一批(pi)道教(jiao)建筑和景點。目前(qian)，上真(zhen)觀(guan)有道士(shi)10多人(ren)。

帝王與上真觀

穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上真觀(guan)自施法師(shi)在順治(zhi)(zhi)年(nian)間擴建后，歷經康(kang)熙(xi)、道光、同治(zhi)(zhi)幾朝修建，規模(mo)空前，"雙闕巍峨(e)，瓊宮璀璨，危樓杰(jie)閣聳插(cha)霄漢，遂使茲山(shan)(shan)名(ming)勝于吳中。"清順治(zhi)(zhi)進士董含(han)《登穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)謁勾曲行宮》詩(shi)云(yun)："山(shan)(shan)勢岧峣(yao)欲到(dao)難，玉(yu)真宮殿擁千官。洞口斷云(yun)朝放鶴，石(shi)根晴樹(shu)暮棲(qi)鸞。金門羽客龍(long)泥印，夜禮星辰上醮壇。"描(miao)繪了當(dang)年(nian)穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)山(shan)(shan)勢高峻、道觀(guan)宏偉、醮事(shi)香火之(zhi)盛(sheng)況。

乾隆皇(huang)帝六次(ci)南巡(xun)，有四次(ci)去(qu)了上真(zhen)觀，曾留詩贊曰："震(zhen)澤天連水，洞庭西復東，雙眸望無盡，諸慮對宜(yi)空；三萬六千頃(qing)，春風(feng)秋月中，五車稟精(jing)氣，誰詔陸(lu)龜蒙。"此詩鐫刻立碑于穹窿(long)望湖亭中。

施道淵與上真觀

施道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)，又名亮生，號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。人(ren)稱施大法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)或(huo)施煉師(shi)(shi)，蘇州(zhou)橫塘(tang)人(ren)，出身貧寒，13歲上穹窿(long)山(shan)為道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。爾后下山(shan)闖蕩江湖，入李自成(cheng)(cheng)部下，旋為大順(shun)政(zheng)權樞密院工作。由于李自成(cheng)(cheng)部發生內(nei)訌，自相(xiang)殘(can)殺，導(dao)致失敗。于是(shi)(shi)施亮生深感(gan)世態炎涼(liang)，看(kan)破紅塵，復回(hui)穹窿(long)山(shan)隱(yin)居(ju)，深居(ju)簡出，修道(dao)(dao)(dao)養身。當時(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)已(yi)處于衰敗境地(di)。有(you)一天，施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)正在念玉皇經(jing)，當念到，"敕命東方(fang)，東華(hua)帝君，青(qing)騎(qi)神仙兵馬(ma)(ma)，無鞅數(shu)(shu)眾，悉令下降，覆護受持，是(shi)(shi)此經(jing)者(zhe)……"時(shi)，恰巧當時(shi)清(qing)(qing)皇朝順(shun)治(zhi)皇叔裕親(qin)王(wang)(wang)到蘇州(zhou)盤檢太倉國帑(tang)銀兩返京，路過穹窿(long)山(shan)麓，隱(yin)約聽到山(shan)上人(ren)聲沸騰，劍聲馬(ma)(ma)嘶，感(gan)到好(hao)生奇怪，此莫非(fei)是(shi)(shi)大王(wang)(wang)山(shan)不(bu)成(cheng)(cheng)?倒是(shi)(shi)要(yao)看(kan)個究(jiu)竟。他(ta)帶了兩個隨從登峰，到山(shan)頂一看(kan)，只(zhi)(zhi)見數(shu)(shu)間(jian)(jian)茅屋，里面(mian)傳出木魚雷(lei)音，不(bu)見人(ren)影馬(ma)(ma)匹。進屋僅見一位道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)正襟危(wei)坐，口(kou)中念念有(you)詞(ci)，已(yi)感(gan)此人(ren)非(fei)同(tong)一般。良久(jiu)(jiu)，皇叔終于認(ren)出是(shi)(shi)施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)，十(shi)多年不(bu)見，兩人(ren)親(qin)密無間(jian)(jian)，促膝交談。施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)說自己(ji)已(yi)看(kan)破紅塵，覺(jue)得穹窿(long)山(shan)能(neng)讓自己(ji)清(qing)(qing)靜修道(dao)(dao)(dao)，實(shi)是(shi)(shi)理(li)想(xiang)之地(di)，不(bu)亦(yi)樂乎?裕親(qin)王(wang)(wang)說："既如此，何(he)不(bu)增建(jian)(jian)殿宇，創(chuang)其宏(hong)業(ye)?"施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)一笑："貧道(dao)(dao)(dao)哪(na)有(you)這(zhe)巨資擴建(jian)(jian)。"裕親(qin)王(wang)(wang)沉思片刻說："只(zhi)(zhi)要(yao)施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)籌劃何(he)數(shu)(shu)目，終能(neng)實(shi)現，不(bu)過，道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)以(yi)建(jian)(jian)在三茅峰為妥。"施法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)點頭(tou)稱是(shi)(shi)。不(bu)久(jiu)(jiu)，朝廷撥帑(tang)興建(jian)(jian)，到康熙(xi)三年春已(yi)建(jian)(jian)成(cheng)(cheng)26殿及輔房樓閣數(shu)(shu)千(qian)間(jian)(jian)。

上真觀交通

上真觀(guan)坐落于穹(qiong)窿山上，乘坐43路(lu)、64路(lu)公交車均能到(dao)達。