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相傳，嘗取石(shi)脂(zhi)于(yu)此。左思(si)《吳(wu)都賦》云："赤(chi)須子蟬蛻而附(fu)麗(li)。"赤(chi)須子，道教傳說中的神仙。《文選(xuan)》李(li)善注(zhu)引《列仙傳》云："赤(chi)須子，豐人(ren)也(ye)，秦穆公之(zhi)主魚吏也(ye)。數道豐界災異水旱(han)，十不失一。食柏實、石(shi)脂(zhi)，絕谷。齒落更生，細發復出。后(hou)去(qu)之(zhi)吳(wu)山。"赤(chi)須子本非吳(wu)人(ren)，故(gu)曰"附(fu)麗(li)"于(yu)此。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)歷史悠久，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志(zhi)》載，漢(han)代(dai)(dai)初(chu)(chu)(chu)元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間，出(chu)身望(wang)族的茅(mao)盈、茅(mao)固、茅(mao)衷兄(xiong)弟三人(ren)上(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修煉(lian)皆(jie)得道(dao)(dao)(dao)，合稱三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)(jun)，曾修茅(mao)君(jun)(jun)殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)"斷碑"殘跡，至漢(han)平(ping)(ping)帝時，始建道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。據《光福志(zhi)》，宋天(tian)禧年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間，真(zhen)(zhen)宗(zong)(zong)(zong)詔天(tian)復廢業重建穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)為(wei)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。"天(tian)復"為(wei)唐昭宗(zong)(zong)(zong)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)號，可見(jian)在唐代(dai)(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)已(yi)有(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。南宋時，敕(chi)平(ping)(ping)江西郊拓地(di)八百畝創朝真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)沈(shen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)祖(zu)。元(yuan)末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火焚而毀。明初(chu)(chu)(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)有(you)上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗多，香(xiang)火極盛(sheng)(sheng)。清(qing)(qing)初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)著名(ming)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)棲穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茅(mao)君(jun)(jun)故(gu)宮，鳩材修葺殿(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)，初(chu)(chu)(chu)其建筑(zhu)群體(ti)。施(shi)(shi)曾從王常月受(shou)戒，為(wei)全真(zhen)(zhen)龍(long)門派(pai)(pai)第八代(dai)(dai)，后(hou)改宗(zong)(zong)(zong)正一(yi)，開創穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)支(zhi)派(pai)(pai)，于是聲(sheng)名(ming)顯(xian)赫，四(si)方征請。(《金(jin)蓋心燈》)順(shun)治十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)，敕(chi)賜上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)額(e)，康熙初(chu)(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)又修筑(zhu)上(shang)(shang)帝、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)及諸配殿(dian)(dian)，建井泉于山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門。五(wu)十(shi)三年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)，重修各殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)(jun)埏嗣以自置(zhi)田捐(juan)獻，為(wei)永遠修建之(zhi)費(fei)。乾隆(long)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間，又有(you)郡人(ren)修上(shang)(shang)帝、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)姓金(jin)者捐(juan)建大(da)士閣(ge)。乾隆(long)元(yuan)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)，有(you)里中富(fu)人(ren)重建仙師門樓，置(zhi)修葺田入其院(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)又有(you)里人(ren)捐(juan)修各殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)志(zhi)》載：清(qing)(qing)初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治間，龍(long)虎山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三代(dai)(dai)天(tian)師張洪任游訪穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)，清(qing)(qing)廷(ting)賜額(e)"上(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)"，并賜穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)號"養元(yuan)抱一(yi)宣教演(yan)化法師"。清(qing)(qing)顧詒祿《鐵(tie)竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)畫像》云："時吳中道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)之(zhi)盛(sheng)(sheng)，首推穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)。郡城玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍然。年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)傾，太傅金(jin)文通(tong)公延請道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)主觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)復修。"可見(jian)當時穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之(zhi)盛(sheng)(sheng)已(yi)超過了玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)(guan)。

清朝末年，上真(zhen)觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂軒閣(ge)，有(you)房二千余(yu)間(jian)，分三十(shi)六(liu)房分管，有(you)宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒閣(ge)堂四十(shi)余(yu)座。如天妃宮、祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙(yi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)虎(hu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星(xing)宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火樨殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三星(xing)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如意(yi)軒、斗姆閣(ge)、魁星(xing)閣(ge)、華仙閣(ge)、七仙居、餐(can)花居、吉禪房、養和(he)堂等等。這些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星(xing)羅棋布，建筑宏偉；堂內神(shen)像，塑(su)造精巧，形象逼真(zhen)，栩(xu)栩(xu)如生。

民國時，穹窿(long)山(shan)道教殿(dian)宇(yu)除關帝殿(dian)、龍王殿(dian)、呂(lv)祖殿(dian)、財神殿(dian)等外，其余(yu)均毀于大火，據(ju)穹窿(long)山(shan)老法(fa)師姚臥松所(suo)述，抗日(ri)戰爭期間，穹窿(long)山(shan)上真觀(guan)尚有道士二(er)十余(yu)人(ren)。"文革(ge)"時，殿(dian)宇(yu)全部毀壞。

自1978年(nian)后，在人民政府的關(guan)懷下(xia)，蘇州穹窿山道(dao)教也得到復興。1991年(nian)，上(shang)真觀在原址上(shang)恢復重建(jian)。十多年(nian)來(lai)，在道(dao)教信眾的支持下(xia)，先后建(jian)起了(le)頭山門、龍王殿、玉皇(huang)殿、三清殿、望湖亭等一(yi)批(pi)道(dao)教建(jian)筑和景(jing)點。目(mu)前(qian)，上(shang)真觀有(you)道(dao)士10多人。

帝王與上真觀

穹(qiong)窿山(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)觀自施法師在順治年(nian)間擴建(jian)后，歷經(jing)康熙、道光、同治幾朝修(xiu)建(jian)，規(gui)模空(kong)前(qian)，"雙闕(que)巍峨，瓊宮璀璨，危樓杰閣聳(song)插霄漢，遂使茲(zi)山(shan)名勝于吳中(zhong)。"清順治進(jin)士(shi)董含《登(deng)穹(qiong)窿謁勾曲行(xing)宮》詩云："山(shan)勢岧峣欲到難，玉真(zhen)宮殿擁千(qian)官。洞(dong)口斷云朝放鶴，石根晴(qing)樹暮棲鸞。金(jin)門羽客龍泥印，夜禮星辰上(shang)醮(jiao)壇。"描繪了當年(nian)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)山(shan)勢高(gao)峻(jun)、道觀宏偉、醮(jiao)事香火之盛況。

乾(qian)隆皇帝(di)六次(ci)南巡，有四次(ci)去了上(shang)真觀，曾留詩贊曰(yue)："震澤天連水(shui)，洞庭西復東，雙(shuang)眸望(wang)無盡，諸慮對宜空(kong)；三萬六千(qian)頃，春風秋月中(zhong)，五(wu)車稟精氣，誰(shui)詔陸龜蒙(meng)。"此詩鐫刻立碑于(yu)穹窿(long)望(wang)湖亭中(zhong)。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)淵，又名亮(liang)生(sheng)，號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。人(ren)稱(cheng)施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)大(da)(da)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)或施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)煉師(shi)(shi)(shi)，蘇州橫塘人(ren)，出身(shen)貧寒，13歲上穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)為道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)。爾后下(xia)山(shan)(shan)闖蕩江(jiang)湖，入(ru)李自成(cheng)部下(xia)，旋(xuan)為大(da)(da)順(shun)(shun)政(zheng)權樞(shu)密(mi)院工作(zuo)。由于李自成(cheng)部發(fa)生(sheng)內訌(hong)，自相殘殺(sha)，導(dao)致(zhi)失(shi)敗。于是(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)亮(liang)生(sheng)深(shen)感世態炎涼，看(kan)破紅塵，復回(hui)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)隱(yin)居(ju)，深(shen)居(ju)簡出，修道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)養身(shen)。當時道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)已(yi)處(chu)于衰敗境地(di)。有一天，施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)正在念(nian)玉皇(huang)(huang)經(jing)，當念(nian)到，"敕命(ming)東方(fang)，東華帝君，青騎神仙兵馬，無(wu)鞅數(shu)眾，悉(xi)令下(xia)降，覆護(hu)受持，是(shi)此(ci)(ci)經(jing)者……"時，恰巧當時清皇(huang)(huang)朝(chao)順(shun)(shun)治(zhi)皇(huang)(huang)叔裕(yu)(yu)親(qin)王到蘇州盤檢(jian)太倉國帑銀兩(liang)返京(jing)，路過穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)麓(lu)，隱(yin)約聽到山(shan)(shan)上人(ren)聲沸騰，劍聲馬嘶，感到好生(sheng)奇怪，此(ci)(ci)莫非(fei)是(shi)大(da)(da)王山(shan)(shan)不(bu)成(cheng)?倒是(shi)要(yao)看(kan)個究竟。他帶了兩(liang)個隨從(cong)登峰，到山(shan)(shan)頂一看(kan)，只見數(shu)間(jian)茅(mao)屋，里面傳(chuan)出木魚雷音(yin)，不(bu)見人(ren)影(ying)馬匹。進屋僅見一位道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)正襟危坐，口中念(nian)念(nian)有詞，已(yi)感此(ci)(ci)人(ren)非(fei)同一般。良久(jiu)，皇(huang)(huang)叔終(zhong)于認(ren)出是(shi)施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)，十多年不(bu)見，兩(liang)人(ren)親(qin)密(mi)無(wu)間(jian)，促膝(xi)交談。施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)說(shuo)自己已(yi)看(kan)破紅塵，覺得穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)能讓自己清靜(jing)修道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)，實是(shi)理想之地(di)，不(bu)亦樂乎?裕(yu)(yu)親(qin)王說(shuo)："既如此(ci)(ci)，何不(bu)增(zeng)建(jian)殿宇，創其(qi)宏業?"施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)一笑(xiao)："貧道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)哪有這巨(ju)資擴建(jian)。"裕(yu)(yu)親(qin)王沉思片(pian)刻說(shuo)："只要(yao)施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)籌劃何數(shu)目，終(zhong)能實現，不(bu)過，道(dao)(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)以建(jian)在三(san)茅(mao)峰為妥。"施(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)點頭稱(cheng)是(shi)。不(bu)久(jiu)，朝(chao)廷撥(bo)帑興建(jian)，到康熙三(san)年春已(yi)建(jian)成(cheng)26殿及輔房樓閣數(shu)千間(jian)。

上真觀交通

上(shang)真(zhen)觀坐落于(yu)穹窿(long)山(shan)上(shang)，乘坐43路(lu)、64路(lu)公交車均能到(dao)達。