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相(xiang)傳，嘗(chang)取石脂(zhi)于此(ci)。左(zuo)思《吳都賦》云："赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)蟬蛻而附麗(li)。"赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)，道教傳說中的神(shen)仙(xian)。《文選》李善(shan)注引《列仙(xian)傳》云："赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)，豐人也(ye)，秦穆公之主魚吏也(ye)。數道豐界災異水旱，十不失一。食柏實、石脂(zhi)，絕谷。齒落(luo)更生(sheng)，細(xi)發復出。后去(qu)之吳山。"赤(chi)須(xu)子(zi)(zi)本非(fei)吳人，故曰"附麗(li)"于此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)歷史(shi)悠久(jiu)，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)志(zhi)》載，漢代(dai)初(chu)元(yuan)年(nian)間，出(chu)身望族的茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)盈、茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)固、茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)衷兄(xiong)弟三人(ren)上(shang)(shang)(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)修煉(lian)皆得道(dao)，合稱三茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君，曾(ceng)修茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)君殿(dian)(dian)，留(liu)有(you)"斷碑"殘跡，至漢平帝時(shi)(shi)，始建(jian)道(dao)院。據《光福志(zhi)》，宋天禧(xi)年(nian)間，真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)宗(zong)詔天復(fu)(fu)廢(fei)業重建(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)院為(wei)(wei)觀(guan)。"天復(fu)(fu)"為(wei)(wei)唐昭宗(zong)年(nian)號，可見在唐代(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)已有(you)道(dao)觀(guan)。南宋時(shi)(shi)，敕(chi)平江西(xi)郊(jiao)拓(tuo)地八(ba)百(bai)畝創(chuang)朝真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)院沈(shen)道(dao)祥(xiang)為(wei)(wei)開山(shan)(shan)之祖。元(yuan)末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火(huo)焚而毀(hui)。明初(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)有(you)上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗(po)多，香火(huo)極盛(sheng)。清(qing)初(chu)順治(zhi)年(nian)間，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)著名(ming)道(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)淵棲穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)君故宮(gong)，鳩材修葺殿(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)，初(chu)其建(jian)筑群體。施(shi)曾(ceng)從王常月受戒，為(wei)(wei)全真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)龍門派第八(ba)代(dai)，后改(gai)宗(zong)正一，開創(chuang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)支(zhi)派，于(yu)是聲名(ming)顯赫，四方征請。(《金(jin)蓋心燈(deng)》)順治(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)，敕(chi)賜(si)上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)院額，康(kang)熙(xi)初(chu)年(nian)又(you)修筑上(shang)(shang)(shang)帝、三茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)及(ji)諸配殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)井泉(quan)于(yu)山(shan)(shan)門。五(wu)十(shi)三年(nian)，重修各殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一年(nian)有(you)三茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君埏嗣以自置(zhi)田(tian)(tian)捐獻，為(wei)(wei)永遠修建(jian)之費(fei)。乾隆年(nian)間，又(you)有(you)郡人(ren)修上(shang)(shang)(shang)帝、三茅(mao)(mao)(mao)(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)姓金(jin)者捐建(jian)大士閣。乾隆元(yuan)年(nian)，有(you)里中富(fu)人(ren)重建(jian)仙師門樓，置(zhi)修葺田(tian)(tian)入其院。七年(nian)又(you)有(you)里人(ren)捐修各殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄妙觀(guan)志(zhi)》載：清(qing)初(chu)順治(zhi)間，龍虎山(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三代(dai)天師張洪任游訪(fang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)，清(qing)廷賜(si)額"上(shang)(shang)(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)"，并賜(si)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)道(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)淵號"養元(yuan)抱一宣教(jiao)演(yan)化法師"。清(qing)顧詒(yi)祿《鐵竹道(dao)人(ren)畫像》云："時(shi)(shi)吳(wu)中道(dao)院之盛(sheng)，首推(tui)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)。郡城玄妙觀(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍然。年(nian)久(jiu)殿(dian)(dian)傾，太(tai)傅金(jin)文通公延請道(dao)淵主觀(guan)復(fu)(fu)修。"可見當(dang)時(shi)(shi)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)之盛(sheng)已超過了玄妙觀(guan)。

清朝末年，上真觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂(tang)軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)，有(you)房二千(qian)余間，分三(san)十六房分管，有(you)宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒(xuan)(xuan)閣(ge)(ge)堂(tang)四十余座。如天(tian)妃(fei)宮、祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關(guan)帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽(yang)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊(qi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官(guan)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太(tai)乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿(su)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)農(nong)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花(hua)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東岳(yue)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)樨殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火(huo)神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如意軒(xuan)(xuan)、斗姆閣(ge)(ge)、魁星閣(ge)(ge)、華仙(xian)閣(ge)(ge)、七仙(xian)居、餐花(hua)居、吉禪房、養和堂(tang)等(deng)等(deng)。這些(xie)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星羅棋(qi)布，建筑宏偉；堂(tang)內(nei)神(shen)像，塑造精巧，形(xing)象逼真，栩栩如生。

民國時，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)道教(jiao)殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)除關帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)、龍(long)王殿(dian)(dian)、呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)、財(cai)神殿(dian)(dian)等外，其余(yu)均毀(hui)于大火(huo)，據穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)老法師姚臥松(song)所述，抗日戰爭(zheng)期間，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)上真觀尚有(you)道士二十(shi)余(yu)人。"文革"時，殿(dian)(dian)宇(yu)全部毀(hui)壞。

自1978年后，在人民政府的(de)關懷下，蘇州穹(qiong)窿山道(dao)(dao)教也得到復興(xing)。1991年，上(shang)真觀在原(yuan)址上(shang)恢復重(zhong)建(jian)。十多年來，在道(dao)(dao)教信眾的(de)支持下，先后建(jian)起了頭山門、龍王殿(dian)、玉(yu)皇殿(dian)、三(san)清(qing)殿(dian)、望湖亭等一批道(dao)(dao)教建(jian)筑和景點。目前，上(shang)真觀有道(dao)(dao)士10多人。

帝王與上真觀

穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)上真(zhen)觀自施(shi)法師在順治年間(jian)擴建后，歷經(jing)康熙、道光、同治幾朝(chao)修建，規模空前(qian)，"雙闕巍峨(e)，瓊(qiong)宮(gong)璀璨，危樓杰(jie)閣聳插(cha)霄漢，遂(sui)使茲山(shan)名勝于吳中。"清順治進士董含(han)《登穹(qiong)窿(long)謁勾曲行宮(gong)》詩云："山(shan)勢(shi)(shi)岧峣欲到難，玉真(zhen)宮(gong)殿(dian)擁千官。洞口(kou)斷云朝(chao)放(fang)鶴，石根(gen)晴(qing)樹暮(mu)棲(qi)鸞(luan)。金門羽客龍泥印，夜禮星(xing)辰上醮(jiao)壇。"描(miao)繪(hui)了當(dang)年穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)山(shan)勢(shi)(shi)高峻、道觀宏偉、醮(jiao)事(shi)香火之(zhi)盛況。

乾隆皇帝六(liu)(liu)次南巡，有(you)四次去了(le)上(shang)真(zhen)觀，曾留詩贊曰："震(zhen)澤天連水，洞庭(ting)西復(fu)東(dong)，雙眸望無盡，諸(zhu)慮對宜空；三萬六(liu)(liu)千頃，春風秋(qiu)月中，五車稟(bing)精氣，誰詔陸龜蒙。"此詩鐫刻(ke)立碑于穹窿望湖亭中。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)道淵，又名亮(liang)(liang)生，號鐵竹(zhu)道人(ren)(ren)。人(ren)(ren)稱(cheng)施(shi)大法(fa)師(shi)(shi)或(huo)施(shi)煉師(shi)(shi)，蘇(su)州橫塘(tang)人(ren)(ren)，出(chu)身貧寒(han)，13歲(sui)上穹窿(long)山(shan)為道人(ren)(ren)。爾后下山(shan)闖(chuang)蕩江湖，入(ru)李自成(cheng)部下，旋(xuan)為大順政權樞密院工作(zuo)。由于(yu)李自成(cheng)部發生內訌，自相殘殺，導致失敗。于(yu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)亮(liang)(liang)生深感(gan)(gan)世態炎涼(liang)，看(kan)破紅塵，復回穹窿(long)山(shan)隱(yin)居，深居簡出(chu)，修道養(yang)身。當(dang)時(shi)道觀(guan)已(yi)處于(yu)衰敗境(jing)地。有(you)一(yi)(yi)天，施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)正(zheng)在念玉皇(huang)(huang)經，當(dang)念到，"敕命東(dong)方(fang)，東(dong)華帝(di)君，青騎(qi)神仙兵馬(ma)(ma)，無(wu)(wu)鞅數眾，悉令下降，覆(fu)護受持，是(shi)(shi)(shi)此經者……"時(shi)，恰(qia)巧當(dang)時(shi)清皇(huang)(huang)朝順治皇(huang)(huang)叔裕(yu)親(qin)王(wang)到蘇(su)州盤檢太倉國帑(tang)銀兩返京，路過穹窿(long)山(shan)麓，隱(yin)約聽到山(shan)上人(ren)(ren)聲沸騰(teng)，劍聲馬(ma)(ma)嘶(si)，感(gan)(gan)到好生奇怪，此莫非(fei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)大王(wang)山(shan)不(bu)成(cheng)?倒是(shi)(shi)(shi)要(yao)看(kan)個(ge)究竟。他帶(dai)了(le)兩個(ge)隨從登峰，到山(shan)頂一(yi)(yi)看(kan)，只見數間(jian)茅屋，里面傳(chuan)出(chu)木(mu)魚(yu)雷(lei)音(yin)，不(bu)見人(ren)(ren)影馬(ma)(ma)匹(pi)。進屋僅見一(yi)(yi)位道人(ren)(ren)正(zheng)襟危(wei)坐(zuo)，口中(zhong)念念有(you)詞，已(yi)感(gan)(gan)此人(ren)(ren)非(fei)同一(yi)(yi)般。良久，皇(huang)(huang)叔終(zhong)于(yu)認(ren)出(chu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)，十多(duo)年(nian)不(bu)見，兩人(ren)(ren)親(qin)密無(wu)(wu)間(jian)，促膝交談(tan)。施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)說(shuo)自己已(yi)看(kan)破紅塵，覺(jue)得穹窿(long)山(shan)能(neng)讓(rang)自己清靜(jing)修道，實是(shi)(shi)(shi)理想之地，不(bu)亦樂(le)乎?裕(yu)親(qin)王(wang)說(shuo)："既如此，何不(bu)增建殿宇，創(chuang)其宏業(ye)?"施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)一(yi)(yi)笑："貧道哪有(you)這巨資擴建。"裕(yu)親(qin)王(wang)沉思片(pian)刻說(shuo)："只要(yao)施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)籌劃何數目(mu)，終(zhong)能(neng)實現，不(bu)過，道觀(guan)以建在三茅峰為妥。"施(shi)法(fa)師(shi)(shi)點頭稱(cheng)是(shi)(shi)(shi)。不(bu)久，朝廷(ting)撥帑(tang)興(xing)建，到康(kang)熙三年(nian)春已(yi)建成(cheng)26殿及輔房樓閣數千間(jian)。

上真觀交通

上真觀(guan)坐(zuo)落于穹窿山上，乘坐(zuo)43路(lu)、64路(lu)公交車(che)均能到達。