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相傳(chuan)，嘗取(qu)石脂于此(ci)。左思《吳都(dou)賦》云："赤(chi)須子(zi)(zi)蟬蛻而附麗(li)。"赤(chi)須子(zi)(zi)，道教傳(chuan)說中的神仙(xian)。《文(wen)選(xuan)》李善注引《列仙(xian)傳(chuan)》云："赤(chi)須子(zi)(zi)，豐人(ren)也(ye)，秦穆公之主魚(yu)吏也(ye)。數道豐界災異水旱，十不失一。食柏(bo)實、石脂，絕谷。齒落(luo)更生，細發復(fu)出。后去(qu)之吳山(shan)。"赤(chi)須子(zi)(zi)本非(fei)吳人(ren)，故曰"附麗(li)"于此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)歷史悠久，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)志》載，漢(han)代(dai)(dai)(dai)初(chu)(chu)(chu)元年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)，出身望族的(de)茅(mao)盈、茅(mao)固、茅(mao)衷兄弟三(san)(san)人(ren)上(shang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)修煉皆(jie)得道(dao)(dao)(dao)，合稱三(san)(san)茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)，曾修茅(mao)君(jun)殿(dian)(dian)，留有(you)"斷碑"殘跡，至漢(han)平帝(di)時(shi)(shi)，始建(jian)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)。據《光福志》，宋天禧年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)，真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)宗詔天復廢業重建(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)為觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。"天復"為唐昭(zhao)宗年(nian)(nian)號，可(ke)見在(zai)唐代(dai)(dai)(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)已有(you)道(dao)(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。南宋時(shi)(shi)，敕平江西郊拓(tuo)地八百畝(mu)創(chuang)(chuang)朝(chao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)沈道(dao)(dao)(dao)祥為開(kai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之祖。元末，殿(dian)(dian)宇遭火焚而毀。明初(chu)(chu)(chu)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)有(you)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇頗多，香火極盛。清初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)(zhi)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)，穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)著名(ming)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)棲穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茅(mao)君(jun)故(gu)宮，鳩材修葺殿(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)(nian)，初(chu)(chu)(chu)其(qi)建(jian)筑(zhu)群體。施曾從王(wang)常月受戒，為全真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)龍門派(pai)第八代(dai)(dai)(dai)，后改宗正一(yi)(yi)，開(kai)創(chuang)(chuang)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)支(zhi)派(pai)，于是聲名(ming)顯赫，四方征請。(《金蓋(gai)心燈》)順(shun)治(zhi)(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)，敕賜(si)上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)額(e)，康熙初(chu)(chu)(chu)年(nian)(nian)又修筑(zhu)上(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)及(ji)諸(zhu)配殿(dian)(dian)，建(jian)井(jing)泉于山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)門。五(wu)十(shi)三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)，重修各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(nian)有(you)三(san)(san)茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)君(jun)埏嗣以自置田捐獻，為永遠修建(jian)之費。乾隆(long)年(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)，又有(you)郡(jun)人(ren)修上(shang)帝(di)、三(san)(san)茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)，有(you)姓金者捐建(jian)大士閣。乾隆(long)元年(nian)(nian)，有(you)里(li)中富(fu)人(ren)重建(jian)仙師(shi)(shi)門樓，置修葺田入其(qi)院(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)又有(you)里(li)人(ren)捐修各(ge)殿(dian)(dian)。據《玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)志》載：清初(chu)(chu)(chu)順(shun)治(zhi)(zhi)間(jian)(jian)，龍虎山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三(san)(san)代(dai)(dai)(dai)天師(shi)(shi)張洪任游(you)訪穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)，清廷賜(si)額(e)"上(shang)真(zhen)(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)"，并賜(si)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)(dao)士施道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)號"養(yang)元抱(bao)一(yi)(yi)宣教演(yan)化法師(shi)(shi)"。清顧詒祿《鐵竹(zhu)道(dao)(dao)(dao)人(ren)畫(hua)像》云："時(shi)(shi)吳中道(dao)(dao)(dao)院(yuan)之盛，首(shou)推(tui)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)。郡(jun)城(cheng)玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)宇巍然。年(nian)(nian)久殿(dian)(dian)傾，太傅金文通公延請道(dao)(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)主(zhu)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)復修。"可(ke)見當時(shi)(shi)穹(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)(long)(long)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)之盛已超過了玄妙(miao)(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。

清朝(chao)末年(nian)，上真觀殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)堂軒閣(ge)，有(you)房二千余間，分三(san)十(shi)六房分管，有(you)宮殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)軒閣(ge)堂四十(shi)余座。如天(tian)妃宮、祖(zu)師殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)清殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)元殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、關帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、純陽殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian))、雷齊(qi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、靈官殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、玄帝殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)虎殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、神(shen)農殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、龍(long)王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、天(tian)將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、送子殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、五土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、東(dong)岳殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、四將殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火樨(xi)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、蛇王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、樂王殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、三(san)星殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、都土殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)、如意軒、斗姆閣(ge)、魁星閣(ge)、華(hua)仙閣(ge)、七仙居(ju)、餐花居(ju)、吉禪房、養和堂等(deng)等(deng)。這些殿(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)(dian)宇星羅棋布，建筑宏偉(wei)；堂內(nei)神(shen)像(xiang)，塑造精巧(qiao)，形象逼真，栩(xu)栩(xu)如生。

民國時(shi)，穹窿(long)(long)山道教殿宇除關(guan)帝(di)殿、龍王殿、呂祖殿、財神殿等(deng)外，其余均毀于(yu)大火，據穹窿(long)(long)山老法師姚臥松所述，抗(kang)日戰爭期間(jian)，穹窿(long)(long)山上真觀尚有(you)道士二(er)十余人。"文革"時(shi)，殿宇全部毀壞。

自1978年后，在(zai)人民政府的關懷下(xia)(xia)，蘇州穹窿山(shan)道教(jiao)也得(de)到復(fu)興。1991年，上真觀在(zai)原址上恢(hui)復(fu)重建(jian)。十多(duo)年來(lai)，在(zai)道教(jiao)信眾(zhong)的支(zhi)持下(xia)(xia)，先(xian)后建(jian)起了頭山(shan)門、龍(long)王殿(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)、三清殿(dian)、望湖亭(ting)等一批道教(jiao)建(jian)筑和景點。目前，上真觀有道士10多(duo)人。

帝王與上真觀

穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)上真(zhen)觀自(zi)施法師在(zai)順治(zhi)(zhi)年(nian)間擴建后，歷經康熙、道光、同治(zhi)(zhi)幾(ji)朝修建，規(gui)模空(kong)前，"雙(shuang)闕(que)巍峨(e)，瓊宮(gong)璀璨，危樓杰閣聳插(cha)霄漢(han)，遂使茲山(shan)名(ming)勝于吳中。"清(qing)順治(zhi)(zhi)進士董含《登穹(qiong)窿(long)謁勾曲行宮(gong)》詩云："山(shan)勢岧峣欲到(dao)難，玉真(zhen)宮(gong)殿擁千官。洞(dong)口斷云朝放鶴，石(shi)根晴樹暮棲鸞。金門羽客龍泥印，夜禮星辰上醮壇。"描(miao)繪(hui)了(le)當年(nian)穹(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)山(shan)勢高(gao)峻、道觀宏(hong)偉、醮事香(xiang)火之(zhi)盛(sheng)況。

乾(qian)隆皇帝六次(ci)南巡，有(you)四(si)次(ci)去(qu)了上真(zhen)觀，曾留(liu)詩贊曰："震(zhen)澤天(tian)連水，洞庭西(xi)復東，雙眸望無(wu)盡，諸慮對宜空；三萬六千(qian)頃，春風(feng)秋月中，五車稟精氣，誰詔陸龜蒙。"此(ci)詩鐫刻立碑(bei)于穹窿望湖亭(ting)中。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)淵(yuan)，又名亮生，號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)人。人稱施(shi)(shi)大法(fa)師(shi)或施(shi)(shi)煉師(shi)，蘇州橫塘人，出(chu)身(shen)貧寒，13歲(sui)上穹窿(long)山(shan)為(wei)道(dao)(dao)人。爾后下山(shan)闖蕩江(jiang)湖(hu)，入李(li)自(zi)成部下，旋為(wei)大順政權樞密(mi)院工作(zuo)。由于李(li)自(zi)成部發生內(nei)訌(hong)，自(zi)相殘殺，導致失敗(bai)。于是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)亮生深(shen)感(gan)世態炎涼(liang)，看(kan)破紅塵(chen)，復回(hui)穹窿(long)山(shan)隱居，深(shen)居簡出(chu)，修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)養身(shen)。當時道(dao)(dao)觀已處(chu)于衰敗(bai)境地。有(you)一天，施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)正(zheng)在念玉皇(huang)經，當念到(dao)，"敕命東方，東華帝君，青騎神(shen)仙(xian)兵馬(ma)，無鞅數(shu)眾(zhong)，悉令下降(jiang)，覆(fu)護受持，是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)此經者……"時，恰巧當時清皇(huang)朝順治皇(huang)叔(shu)裕(yu)(yu)親王到(dao)蘇州盤檢太倉國帑銀兩(liang)返京，路過穹窿(long)山(shan)麓(lu)，隱約聽(ting)到(dao)山(shan)上人聲沸騰，劍聲馬(ma)嘶，感(gan)到(dao)好生奇(qi)怪，此莫非(fei)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)大王山(shan)不(bu)(bu)(bu)成?倒(dao)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)要看(kan)個究竟(jing)。他帶(dai)了兩(liang)個隨從登峰，到(dao)山(shan)頂(ding)一看(kan)，只見(jian)數(shu)間(jian)茅(mao)屋，里面(mian)傳出(chu)木魚雷音，不(bu)(bu)(bu)見(jian)人影馬(ma)匹。進(jin)屋僅(jin)見(jian)一位(wei)道(dao)(dao)人正(zheng)襟危(wei)坐，口中念念有(you)詞，已感(gan)此人非(fei)同一般。良久(jiu)(jiu)，皇(huang)叔(shu)終于認(ren)出(chu)是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)，十(shi)多年不(bu)(bu)(bu)見(jian)，兩(liang)人親密(mi)無間(jian)，促膝(xi)交談。施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)說(shuo)自(zi)己已看(kan)破紅塵(chen)，覺得穹窿(long)山(shan)能(neng)讓自(zi)己清靜修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)，實是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)理想(xiang)之地，不(bu)(bu)(bu)亦樂乎?裕(yu)(yu)親王說(shuo)："既(ji)如此，何(he)(he)不(bu)(bu)(bu)增(zeng)建(jian)殿宇，創其宏業?"施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)一笑："貧道(dao)(dao)哪有(you)這巨資擴(kuo)建(jian)。"裕(yu)(yu)親王沉思片刻說(shuo)："只要施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)籌劃何(he)(he)數(shu)目，終能(neng)實現，不(bu)(bu)(bu)過，道(dao)(dao)觀以建(jian)在三茅(mao)峰為(wei)妥。"施(shi)(shi)法(fa)師(shi)點頭(tou)稱是(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)。不(bu)(bu)(bu)久(jiu)(jiu)，朝廷(ting)撥帑興建(jian)，到(dao)康熙三年春(chun)已建(jian)成26殿及輔房(fang)樓閣數(shu)千間(jian)。

上真觀交通

上真(zhen)觀(guan)坐(zuo)落于穹窿(long)山上，乘坐(zuo)43路、64路公交車均能到達。