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相(xiang)傳(chuan)，嘗取(qu)石(shi)脂于此(ci)。左思《吳都賦》云："赤須子蟬蛻(tui)而附(fu)麗。"赤須子，道教傳(chuan)說中的神仙。《文選》李善注引(yin)《列仙傳(chuan)》云："赤須子，豐(feng)人也，秦穆公之主魚吏也。數(shu)道豐(feng)界災(zai)異水旱，十不(bu)失一。食(shi)柏(bo)實、石(shi)脂，絕谷。齒落更生(sheng)，細發復出。后去(qu)之吳山。"赤須子本非吳人，故曰(yue)"附(fu)麗"于此(ci)。

上真觀的歷史

穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)上真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)歷史悠久(jiu)，據《穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)志(zhi)》載(zai)，漢(han)代(dai)初元年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，出身望族的茅(mao)盈、茅(mao)固、茅(mao)衷兄(xiong)弟三人上穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)修(xiu)(xiu)煉皆得道(dao)(dao)，合(he)稱三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君，曾修(xiu)(xiu)茅(mao)君殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，留有(you)(you)"斷碑"殘(can)跡，至(zhi)漢(han)平帝時，始(shi)建(jian)(jian)道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)。據《光福(fu)志(zhi)》，宋(song)天(tian)(tian)(tian)禧年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，真(zhen)(zhen)宗詔天(tian)(tian)(tian)復廢業(ye)重建(jian)(jian)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)上真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)為(wei)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。"天(tian)(tian)(tian)復"為(wei)唐昭宗年(nian)(nian)(nian)號(hao)，可見(jian)在唐代(dai)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)已有(you)(you)道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。南宋(song)時，敕平江西郊拓地八(ba)百(bai)畝創(chuang)朝真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)上真(zhen)(zhen)道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)沈道(dao)(dao)祥為(wei)開山(shan)(shan)之(zhi)祖。元末(mo)，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)(yu)遭(zao)火焚而毀。明(ming)初，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)有(you)(you)上真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)(yu)頗多，香火極盛。清初順治(zhi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)著名(ming)道(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)淵棲(qi)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)茅(mao)君故宮，鳩材修(xiu)(xiu)葺殿(dian)(dian)(dian)堂，不數年(nian)(nian)(nian)，初其(qi)建(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)群體。施(shi)曾從王常月受戒，為(wei)全真(zhen)(zhen)龍(long)門派第八(ba)代(dai)，后(hou)改宗正一，開創(chuang)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)支派，于是(shi)聲名(ming)顯赫，四方(fang)征請(qing)(qing)。(《金蓋心(xin)燈》)順治(zhi)十(shi)五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)，敕賜上真(zhen)(zhen)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)額，康熙初年(nian)(nian)(nian)又(you)修(xiu)(xiu)筑(zhu)上帝、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)(dian)及諸配殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，建(jian)(jian)井泉于山(shan)(shan)門。五(wu)十(shi)三年(nian)(nian)(nian)，重修(xiu)(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。六十(shi)一年(nian)(nian)(nian)有(you)(you)三茅(mao)真(zhen)(zhen)君埏嗣(si)以自置田捐獻，為(wei)永遠(yuan)修(xiu)(xiu)建(jian)(jian)之(zhi)費(fei)。乾隆年(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，又(you)有(you)(you)郡人修(xiu)(xiu)上帝、三茅(mao)二殿(dian)(dian)(dian)，有(you)(you)姓金者捐建(jian)(jian)大(da)士閣。乾隆元年(nian)(nian)(nian)，有(you)(you)里(li)中(zhong)富人重建(jian)(jian)仙師(shi)(shi)門樓，置修(xiu)(xiu)葺田入其(qi)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)。七年(nian)(nian)(nian)又(you)有(you)(you)里(li)人捐修(xiu)(xiu)各殿(dian)(dian)(dian)。據《玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)志(zhi)》載(zai)：清初順治(zhi)間(jian)(jian)(jian)，龍(long)虎山(shan)(shan)五(wu)十(shi)三代(dai)天(tian)(tian)(tian)師(shi)(shi)張洪任游(you)訪穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)，清廷賜額"上真(zhen)(zhen)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)"，并(bing)賜穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)道(dao)(dao)士施(shi)道(dao)(dao)淵號(hao)"養元抱一宣教演(yan)化法師(shi)(shi)"。清顧詒祿《鐵竹道(dao)(dao)人畫像》云(yun)："時吳中(zhong)道(dao)(dao)院(yuan)(yuan)(yuan)之(zhi)盛，首(shou)推(tui)穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)。郡城玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)，殿(dian)(dian)(dian)宇(yu)(yu)巍然。年(nian)(nian)(nian)久(jiu)殿(dian)(dian)(dian)傾，太傅金文通(tong)公延請(qing)(qing)道(dao)(dao)淵主觀(guan)(guan)(guan)復修(xiu)(xiu)。"可見(jian)當時穹(qiong)(qiong)窿(long)山(shan)(shan)之(zhi)盛已超過了(le)玄妙(miao)觀(guan)(guan)(guan)。

清(qing)朝末年，上真觀殿(dian)(dian)堂(tang)(tang)軒閣(ge)，有房二千余(yu)間(jian)，分三(san)(san)十六(liu)房分管，有宮殿(dian)(dian)軒閣(ge)堂(tang)(tang)四十余(yu)座。如(ru)(ru)天妃宮、祖(zu)師(shi)殿(dian)(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)清(qing)殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)元殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)茅殿(dian)(dian)、關帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)、純(chun)陽殿(dian)(dian)(呂祖(zu)殿(dian)(dian))、雷齊殿(dian)(dian)、靈(ling)官殿(dian)(dian)、玄帝(di)殿(dian)(dian)、文昌殿(dian)(dian)、太乙殿(dian)(dian)、神(shen)虎(hu)殿(dian)(dian)、星宿殿(dian)(dian)、神(shen)農殿(dian)(dian)、龍王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)、天將(jiang)殿(dian)(dian)、送(song)子殿(dian)(dian)、五土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)、花殿(dian)(dian)、東岳殿(dian)(dian)、四將(jiang)殿(dian)(dian)、火樨殿(dian)(dian)、蛇王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)、樂王(wang)殿(dian)(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)、火神(shen)殿(dian)(dian)、三(san)(san)星殿(dian)(dian)、都(dou)土(tu)殿(dian)(dian)、如(ru)(ru)意(yi)軒、斗姆閣(ge)、魁星閣(ge)、華仙(xian)閣(ge)、七仙(xian)居、餐(can)花居、吉(ji)禪房、養和堂(tang)(tang)等(deng)等(deng)。這(zhe)些殿(dian)(dian)宇星羅棋布，建筑宏偉；堂(tang)(tang)內神(shen)像，塑造精巧，形象逼真，栩栩如(ru)(ru)生。

民國時(shi)(shi)，穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)山道(dao)教殿(dian)宇除(chu)關帝(di)殿(dian)、龍(long)王殿(dian)、呂(lv)祖(zu)殿(dian)、財神(shen)殿(dian)等外，其(qi)余(yu)均(jun)毀于大火，據穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)山老(lao)法(fa)師姚臥(wo)松所述，抗日(ri)戰爭(zheng)期間，穹(qiong)窿(long)(long)山上真觀尚有道(dao)士二十余(yu)人。"文革"時(shi)(shi)，殿(dian)宇全部毀壞。

自1978年后(hou)，在人民政府的關懷下(xia)，蘇(su)州穹窿山道教也得到復興。1991年，上真觀(guan)在原址上恢復重建(jian)(jian)。十多(duo)年來，在道教信眾的支持(chi)下(xia)，先后(hou)建(jian)(jian)起了頭(tou)山門、龍王(wang)殿(dian)、玉皇殿(dian)、三(san)清殿(dian)、望湖亭等一批道教建(jian)(jian)筑和(he)景點。目(mu)前，上真觀(guan)有道士10多(duo)人。

帝王與上真觀

穹窿(long)山(shan)上(shang)真(zhen)觀自施(shi)法師在(zai)順治(zhi)年間擴建后，歷經(jing)康熙、道光(guang)、同(tong)治(zhi)幾朝(chao)修(xiu)建，規模空前，"雙闕巍峨，瓊宮璀璨(can)，危樓杰閣聳插霄(xiao)漢(han)，遂使茲山(shan)名勝(sheng)于吳中。"清(qing)順治(zhi)進(jin)士董含《登穹窿(long)謁勾曲(qu)行宮》詩云："山(shan)勢(shi)岧峣欲到難，玉(yu)真(zhen)宮殿(dian)擁千官。洞口斷云朝(chao)放鶴(he)，石根(gen)晴樹暮棲鸞。金門羽客龍泥(ni)印，夜禮星辰上(shang)醮壇(tan)。"描繪(hui)了當年穹窿(long)山(shan)山(shan)勢(shi)高峻、道觀宏偉(wei)、醮事(shi)香(xiang)火(huo)之盛況。

乾隆(long)皇(huang)帝六次(ci)南巡，有(you)四(si)次(ci)去了(le)上(shang)真觀，曾留詩贊曰(yue)："震澤天連水，洞庭西復東，雙眸望(wang)無盡(jin)，諸慮對宜空；三萬六千頃(qing)，春風秋月(yue)中(zhong)，五(wu)車稟精(jing)氣，誰詔陸(lu)龜蒙(meng)。"此(ci)詩鐫(juan)刻立碑(bei)于穹窿望(wang)湖亭(ting)中(zhong)。

施道淵與上真觀

施(shi)(shi)道(dao)(dao)淵，又名亮生，號鐵竹道(dao)(dao)人(ren)(ren)。人(ren)(ren)稱(cheng)(cheng)施(shi)(shi)大法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)或施(shi)(shi)煉師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)，蘇(su)州(zhou)橫(heng)塘(tang)人(ren)(ren)，出(chu)身(shen)貧(pin)寒(han)，13歲上(shang)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)為道(dao)(dao)人(ren)(ren)。爾后下(xia)山(shan)闖蕩江湖，入(ru)李(li)自(zi)成(cheng)部(bu)下(xia)，旋為大順(shun)(shun)政(zheng)權樞(shu)密院(yuan)工作(zuo)。由于(yu)(yu)李(li)自(zi)成(cheng)部(bu)發生內訌，自(zi)相(xiang)殘殺，導致失敗。于(yu)(yu)是(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)亮生深感世態(tai)炎涼，看(kan)(kan)破紅塵，復回穹(qiong)窿山(shan)隱(yin)居(ju)(ju)，深居(ju)(ju)簡(jian)出(chu)，修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)養身(shen)。當(dang)時道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)已(yi)處于(yu)(yu)衰敗境地(di)。有(you)一(yi)天，施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)正在念(nian)玉皇經，當(dang)念(nian)到(dao)(dao)(dao)，"敕命東方(fang)，東華帝君，青騎神仙兵馬，無鞅數眾，悉令下(xia)降(jiang)，覆護受持，是(shi)(shi)此經者……"時，恰(qia)巧當(dang)時清皇朝順(shun)(shun)治(zhi)皇叔裕親(qin)王到(dao)(dao)(dao)蘇(su)州(zhou)盤檢太(tai)倉國帑銀兩(liang)返京，路過(guo)穹(qiong)窿山(shan)麓，隱(yin)約聽到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)上(shang)人(ren)(ren)聲沸騰，劍聲馬嘶(si)，感到(dao)(dao)(dao)好生奇怪，此莫非是(shi)(shi)大王山(shan)不(bu)(bu)成(cheng)?倒是(shi)(shi)要看(kan)(kan)個究竟(jing)。他帶了兩(liang)個隨從登峰(feng)，到(dao)(dao)(dao)山(shan)頂一(yi)看(kan)(kan)，只見(jian)數間茅(mao)(mao)屋(wu)，里面傳出(chu)木魚雷音，不(bu)(bu)見(jian)人(ren)(ren)影(ying)馬匹。進屋(wu)僅見(jian)一(yi)位道(dao)(dao)人(ren)(ren)正襟危坐，口中念(nian)念(nian)有(you)詞，已(yi)感此人(ren)(ren)非同一(yi)般(ban)。良久，皇叔終于(yu)(yu)認出(chu)是(shi)(shi)施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)，十多年不(bu)(bu)見(jian)，兩(liang)人(ren)(ren)親(qin)密無間，促膝交(jiao)談。施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)說(shuo)自(zi)己已(yi)看(kan)(kan)破紅塵，覺得穹(qiong)窿山(shan)能(neng)讓自(zi)己清靜修(xiu)道(dao)(dao)，實是(shi)(shi)理想之地(di)，不(bu)(bu)亦樂乎?裕親(qin)王說(shuo)："既如此，何(he)不(bu)(bu)增建(jian)殿(dian)宇，創其宏(hong)業?"施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)一(yi)笑："貧(pin)道(dao)(dao)哪有(you)這(zhe)巨(ju)資擴建(jian)。"裕親(qin)王沉思片(pian)刻說(shuo)："只要施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)籌(chou)劃何(he)數目，終能(neng)實現，不(bu)(bu)過(guo)，道(dao)(dao)觀(guan)以建(jian)在三茅(mao)(mao)峰(feng)為妥。"施(shi)(shi)法(fa)(fa)師(shi)(shi)(shi)(shi)點(dian)頭稱(cheng)(cheng)是(shi)(shi)。不(bu)(bu)久，朝廷(ting)撥帑興(xing)建(jian)，到(dao)(dao)(dao)康熙三年春(chun)已(yi)建(jian)成(cheng)26殿(dian)及輔房樓閣(ge)數千間。

上真觀交通

上真觀(guan)坐落于穹窿山上，乘(cheng)坐43路、64路公交車(che)均能到達。