宋代(dai)終老(lao)于常(chang)州的(de)(de)大文豪(hao)蘇東坡一天在食(shi)米團時,忽發奇想(xiang):"若內(nei)藏以豆泥(ni),外裹以‘雪衣(yi)’,如糕團之(zhi)炮制(zhi),改蒸煮之(zhi)方(fang)為(wei)炸熘(liu)之(zhi)法(fa),豈非佳肴乎?”這位美食(shi)家嘗試著親自下(xia)廚,幾經周(zhou)折,終因未(wei)完全掌握“雪衣(yi)(蛋(dan)泡糊(hu)(hu))”制(zhi)作之(zhi)技,只(zhi)能以蛋(dan)清包(bao)裹,成(cheng)(cheng)品不(bu)堪理想(xiang)。后經常(chang)州名(ming)廚反復揣摩,才慢慢演變成(cheng)(cheng)今日常(chang)州名(ming)點(dian)——網油(you)卷(juan)。制(zhi)作所(suo)用豬網油(you)需選擇剛宰殺的(de)(de)豬身上(shang)取下(xia)來的(de)(de),保持(chi)清潔無破損為(wei)佳,并要攤開(kai),適(shi)當晾干,切成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)(chang)30厘米、寬12厘米的(de)(de)長(chang)(chang)方(fang)塊,將(jiang)(jiang)甜棗泥(ni)放在網油(you)上(shang),卷(juan)成(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)(chang)圓(yuan)條狀,再切成(cheng)(cheng)3厘米長(chang)(chang)的(de)(de)段(duan)。雞(ji)蛋(dan)清打成(cheng)(cheng)發蛋(dan),加(jia)入干淀(dian)粉調(diao)成(cheng)(cheng)蛋(dan)糊(hu)(hu),鍋(guo)置旺(wang)火(huo)上(shang)燒(shao)(shao)熱,舀入熟豬油(you),燒(shao)(shao)至六成(cheng)(cheng)熱(約132℃)時,離火(huo),將(jiang)(jiang)肉油(you)卷(juan)逐一滾(gun)上(shang)干淀(dian)粉,再掛滿發蛋(dan)糊(hu)(hu)放入油(you)鍋(guo)中(zhong)。然后將(jiang)(jiang)鍋(guo)置在中(zhong)火(huo)上(shang),待(dai)網油(you)卷(juan)炸至米黃(huang)色時撈出(chu),瀝去(qu)油(you)裝入盤中(zhong),撒上(shang)白糖(tang)即成(cheng)(cheng)。網油(you)卷(juan)上(shang)桌時挺立飽滿不(bu)癟,外表能透出(chu)一抹(mo)淺(qian)淺(qian)的(de)(de)亮棕色,這是里面的(de)(de)洗沙透過蛋(dan)清糊(hu)(hu)而透現(xian)出(chu)來的(de)(de),外殼脆而薄,脂香撲(pu)鼻,綿軟適(shi)中(zhong)。
炸好的網油卷;色澤金黃,外嫩里(li)沙(sha),進口香甜(tian),回味無窮。
制(zhi)作網油(you)卷的原料是豬(zhu)網油(you)(網膏),蛋清,紅(hong)豆沙。
制(zhi)作(zuo)時(shi),先將(jiang)網(wang)油(you)用(yong)涼水浸泡待用(yong),再(zai)調制(zhi)紅豆沙(sha),制(zhi)成(cheng)餡心。然后將(jiang)網(wang)油(you)鋪放于案板(ban)上,將(jiang)做(zuo)好(hao)的紅豆沙(sha)餡心以團(tuan)狀鋪在(zai)其上,用(yong)豬網(wang)油(you)將(jiang)其包好(hao),之后裹一層蛋清(qing)糊,最后將(jiang)清(qing)油(you)倒入(ru)鍋中,燒至六成(cheng)熱時(shi),放入(ru)網(wang)油(you)卷,炸成(cheng)金黃色后起(qi)鍋,
漏油點(dian)綴裝盤即可。