宋代終(zhong)老(lao)于常(chang)州(zhou)(zhou)的(de)大文豪(hao)蘇(su)東坡(po)一天(tian)在(zai)食米團時,忽發(fa)奇想:"若內藏以豆泥,外(wai)裹以‘雪衣(yi)’,如糕團之(zhi)(zhi)炮制(zhi)(zhi),改(gai)蒸煮之(zhi)(zhi)方為(wei)炸(zha)熘之(zhi)(zhi)法,豈非佳(jia)肴乎?”這位美食家(jia)嘗(chang)試著(zhu)親自(zi)下廚,幾經(jing)周折,終(zhong)因未(wei)完全(quan)掌握“雪衣(yi)(蛋(dan)(dan)泡(pao)糊)”制(zhi)(zhi)作之(zhi)(zhi)技(ji),只能以蛋(dan)(dan)清包裹,成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)品不堪理(li)想。后經(jing)常(chang)州(zhou)(zhou)名廚反復揣摩,才慢(man)慢(man)演變成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)今日(ri)常(chang)州(zhou)(zhou)名點——網油卷(juan)(juan)(juan)。制(zhi)(zhi)作所用(yong)豬(zhu)網油需選(xuan)擇剛(gang)宰殺的(de)豬(zhu)身上取下來的(de),保持清潔無破損為(wei)佳(jia),并要攤開,適(shi)當晾干(gan),切成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)30厘米、寬12厘米的(de)長(chang)方塊,將甜(tian)棗泥放在(zai)網油上,卷(juan)(juan)(juan)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)長(chang)圓條狀,再切成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)3厘米長(chang)的(de)段。雞蛋(dan)(dan)清打(da)成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)發(fa)蛋(dan)(dan),加(jia)入(ru)(ru)干(gan)淀(dian)粉(fen)調成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)蛋(dan)(dan)糊,鍋置旺(wang)火(huo)上燒(shao)熱,舀入(ru)(ru)熟豬(zhu)油,燒(shao)至六成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)熱(約(yue)132℃)時,離(li)火(huo),將肉油卷(juan)(juan)(juan)逐(zhu)一滾上干(gan)淀(dian)粉(fen),再掛滿發(fa)蛋(dan)(dan)糊放入(ru)(ru)油鍋中(zhong)。然后將鍋置在(zai)中(zhong)火(huo)上,待(dai)網油卷(juan)(juan)(juan)炸(zha)至米黃色時撈出,瀝去油裝入(ru)(ru)盤中(zhong),撒(sa)上白糖即成(cheng)(cheng)(cheng)。網油卷(juan)(juan)(juan)上桌時挺(ting)立飽滿不癟,外(wai)表能透(tou)出一抹淺淺的(de)亮棕色,這是(shi)里面的(de)洗沙透(tou)過蛋(dan)(dan)清糊而(er)(er)透(tou)現出來的(de),外(wai)殼脆而(er)(er)薄,脂香(xiang)撲(pu)鼻,綿軟適(shi)中(zhong)。
炸(zha)好的網油卷;色澤金黃,外嫩里沙,進口香甜,回味無窮。
制作(zuo)網油(you)卷(juan)的(de)原料是豬網油(you)(網膏),蛋(dan)清,紅豆沙。
制(zhi)作時(shi),先將網(wang)(wang)油用涼水浸(jin)泡待(dai)用,再調制(zhi)紅(hong)豆沙,制(zhi)成(cheng)(cheng)餡心。然后將網(wang)(wang)油鋪放(fang)于案板上(shang),將做好(hao)的紅(hong)豆沙餡心以團狀鋪在其上(shang),用豬(zhu)網(wang)(wang)油將其包好(hao),之后裹一層蛋清糊,最后將清油倒入鍋(guo)中,燒至六成(cheng)(cheng)熱時(shi),放(fang)入網(wang)(wang)油卷,炸(zha)成(cheng)(cheng)金黃(huang)色(se)后起鍋(guo),
漏油(you)點綴裝盤即可。