宋代(dai)終(zhong)老于常州的(de)(de)大(da)文(wen)豪蘇東坡(po)一(yi)天(tian)在食米(mi)(mi)團時(shi),忽發(fa)奇(qi)想(xiang):"若內藏以豆(dou)泥,外裹以‘雪衣(yi)’,如糕團之炮制,改蒸煮(zhu)之方(fang)(fang)為炸(zha)熘之法,豈非佳肴乎?”這(zhe)(zhe)位美食家嘗(chang)試著親自下(xia)廚,幾經(jing)周折,終(zhong)因未(wei)完(wan)全掌握“雪衣(yi)(蛋(dan)(dan)泡糊(hu))”制作之技,只能(neng)以蛋(dan)(dan)清(qing)(qing)包裹,成(cheng)品不堪理(li)想(xiang)。后經(jing)常州名(ming)廚反(fan)復揣摩(mo),才(cai)慢慢演變(bian)成(cheng)今(jin)日常州名(ming)點——網(wang)(wang)(wang)油(you)(you)(you)卷(juan)(juan)。制作所用豬(zhu)網(wang)(wang)(wang)油(you)(you)(you)需選擇剛(gang)宰殺的(de)(de)豬(zhu)身上取(qu)下(xia)來的(de)(de),保持清(qing)(qing)潔無破損為佳,并要攤開,適當晾干(gan),切成(cheng)長(chang)30厘(li)米(mi)(mi)、寬12厘(li)米(mi)(mi)的(de)(de)長(chang)方(fang)(fang)塊,將(jiang)(jiang)甜棗泥放在網(wang)(wang)(wang)油(you)(you)(you)上,卷(juan)(juan)成(cheng)長(chang)圓條狀(zhuang),再切成(cheng)3厘(li)米(mi)(mi)長(chang)的(de)(de)段(duan)。雞(ji)蛋(dan)(dan)清(qing)(qing)打成(cheng)發(fa)蛋(dan)(dan),加入干(gan)淀粉調成(cheng)蛋(dan)(dan)糊(hu),鍋(guo)(guo)置旺火上燒熱,舀入熟豬(zhu)油(you)(you)(you),燒至六(liu)成(cheng)熱(約132℃)時(shi),離火,將(jiang)(jiang)肉油(you)(you)(you)卷(juan)(juan)逐一(yi)滾(gun)上干(gan)淀粉,再掛滿發(fa)蛋(dan)(dan)糊(hu)放入油(you)(you)(you)鍋(guo)(guo)中(zhong)。然后將(jiang)(jiang)鍋(guo)(guo)置在中(zhong)火上,待網(wang)(wang)(wang)油(you)(you)(you)卷(juan)(juan)炸(zha)至米(mi)(mi)黃(huang)色時(shi)撈出(chu),瀝去(qu)油(you)(you)(you)裝入盤中(zhong),撒上白糖即成(cheng)。網(wang)(wang)(wang)油(you)(you)(you)卷(juan)(juan)上桌時(shi)挺立飽滿不癟,外表能(neng)透出(chu)一(yi)抹淺(qian)淺(qian)的(de)(de)亮(liang)棕色,這(zhe)(zhe)是里面的(de)(de)洗沙透過蛋(dan)(dan)清(qing)(qing)糊(hu)而(er)透現(xian)出(chu)來的(de)(de),外殼脆而(er)薄(bo),脂香撲鼻,綿軟適中(zhong)。
炸好的(de)網油卷(juan);色(se)澤金黃,外嫩里沙,進(jin)口香甜,回味(wei)無窮。
制作網油卷(juan)的原料是豬網油(網膏),蛋清,紅豆(dou)沙。
制(zhi)作時(shi),先(xian)將網(wang)油(you)用(yong)(yong)涼水浸泡待(dai)用(yong)(yong),再調(diao)制(zhi)紅(hong)豆(dou)沙(sha),制(zhi)成餡心。然后(hou)(hou)(hou)將網(wang)油(you)鋪(pu)放于案板上(shang),將做好的紅(hong)豆(dou)沙(sha)餡心以團狀鋪(pu)在其上(shang),用(yong)(yong)豬(zhu)網(wang)油(you)將其包好,之(zhi)后(hou)(hou)(hou)裹一層蛋清(qing)糊,最后(hou)(hou)(hou)將清(qing)油(you)倒(dao)入(ru)鍋(guo)中,燒(shao)至(zhi)六(liu)成熱時(shi),放入(ru)網(wang)油(you)卷,炸(zha)成金黃色后(hou)(hou)(hou)起鍋(guo),
漏油點(dian)綴裝(zhuang)盤即可。