陽泉漂抿曲(qu),亦稱(cheng)抿曲(qu)、小(xiao)河撈,是山(shan)西陽泉的一種傳統面食。陽泉抿曲(qu)是以綠豆摻少量(liang)精(jing)白面粉(fen)和面,經特制(zhi)抿曲(qu)床壓制(zhi)而(er)成(cheng)。煮熟后撈入各種調(diao)料配制(zhi)成(cheng)的湯汁中即可飄起。它長如掛面,細(xi)如毛粉(fen),清香(xiang)利口,鮮味(wei)撲鼻,富有營養,風味(wei)別致,還(huan)具有消火消暑之功效。
明(ming)(ming)末(mo)清初(chu)的學界(jie)泰斗傅山(shan)(shan)先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)也曾(ceng)作《小河撈記(ji)》對漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)大(da)(da)加贊賞。傅山(shan)(shan)先(xian)生(sheng)(sheng)曾(ceng)發明(ming)(ming)了養生(sheng)(sheng)水(shui)和(he)面代替普(pu)通的水(shui)和(he)面,如:春用枸杞、桑葚之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),夏為黃耆、薏仁(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),秋(qiu)用山(shan)(shan)藥、百合(he)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),冬為地黃、當(dang)歸之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),養生(sheng)(sheng)則用米(mi)脯之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),間(jian)或連翹、雙花、公英、炭白芨等等之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui)。由(you)此形成(cheng)了漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)博奧(ao):“貴(gui)在絲,精(jing)在飄,味在湯,養在面,左右相承(cheng),合(he)四(si)時生(sheng)(sheng)生(sheng)(sheng)不息(xi)。”漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)以綠豆粉為主(zhu)要原料,李時珍《本草綱目》中(zhong)稱(cheng)綠豆為“食(shi)(shi)中(zhong)要物(wu),菜(cai)中(zhong)佳品”,有清熱解毒、明(ming)(ming)目降(jiang)壓之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)功效,加之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)傅山(shan)(shan)養生(sheng)(sheng)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)水(shui),豆面漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)便成(cheng)為了一種養生(sheng)(sheng)美(mei)食(shi)(shi)。可惜山(shan)(shan)城人卻沒(mei)能(neng)發揚(yang)光大(da)(da)。雖然現在許多飯店都(dou)有漂(piao)抿(min)曲(qu)這道小食(shi)(shi),但沒(mei)有做(zuo)成(cheng)養生(sheng)(sheng)美(mei)食(shi)(shi),多少讓(rang)人感到遺憾。
漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)一(yi)般用豆面制(zhi)作,用如掛面一(yi)樣細(xi)的(de)(de)細(xi)抿曲(qu)床抿到開水鍋中煮熟后(hou)(hou),把(ba)滾開的(de)(de)煮湯舀到已經(jing)下好(hao)佐(zuo)料(liao)的(de)(de)碗里(li),再(zai)把(ba)熟抿曲(qu)撈進碗里(li),抿曲(qu)就漂(piao)(piao)在碗里(li)的(de)(de)面湯上了(le)。所以叫“漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)”。漂(piao)(piao)抿曲(qu)的(de)(de)味道好(hao)不(bu)好(hao),抿曲(qu)能否漂(piao)(piao)起來(lai),秘(mi)密全在于放醬、醋、香油(you)、鹽、蔥、芫荽等佐(zuo)料(liao)擱(ge)多少與先后(hou)(hou)次序中。