陽(yang)泉(quan)漂抿曲(qu)(qu),亦稱抿曲(qu)(qu)、小河撈,是(shi)山(shan)西陽(yang)泉(quan)的一種(zhong)傳統面食。陽(yang)泉(quan)抿曲(qu)(qu)是(shi)以綠豆摻少(shao)量精白面粉和(he)面,經特制抿曲(qu)(qu)床壓(ya)制而成。煮熟后(hou)撈入各(ge)種(zhong)調料配(pei)制成的湯汁中(zhong)即(ji)可飄(piao)起(qi)。它長如掛面,細如毛粉,清香利(li)口(kou),鮮味撲鼻,富有(you)營養(yang),風味別致,還(huan)具有(you)消火消暑之功效(xiao)。
明(ming)末清初的(de)學界泰(tai)斗傅山(shan)(shan)先(xian)(xian)生(sheng)也曾作《小河撈記》對漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu)大加(jia)贊賞。傅山(shan)(shan)先(xian)(xian)生(sheng)曾發明(ming)了(le)養(yang)生(sheng)水(shui)和面(mian)代替普通的(de)水(shui)和面(mian),如:春用(yong)枸杞、桑(sang)葚之水(shui),夏(xia)為黃耆、薏(yi)仁之水(shui),秋用(yong)山(shan)(shan)藥、百合(he)之水(shui),冬(dong)為地黃、當(dang)歸(gui)之水(shui),養(yang)生(sheng)則用(yong)米(mi)脯(fu)之水(shui),間或連翹、雙花、公英、炭白芨等等之水(shui)。由(you)此形(xing)成(cheng)了(le)漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu)之博奧(ao):“貴(gui)在絲(si),精在飄,味在湯,養(yang)在面(mian),左右相承,合(he)四時生(sheng)生(sheng)不息。”漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu)以綠豆粉為主(zhu)要原料,李時珍(zhen)《本(ben)草綱(gang)目》中稱綠豆為“食(shi)中要物,菜中佳品”,有(you)清熱解毒、明(ming)目降壓之功效(xiao),加(jia)之傅山(shan)(shan)養(yang)生(sheng)之水(shui),豆面(mian)漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu)便成(cheng)為了(le)一種養(yang)生(sheng)美食(shi)。可惜山(shan)(shan)城人(ren)卻沒能發揚光大。雖然(ran)現在許多(duo)飯店都有(you)漂(piao)抿曲(qu)(qu)這道小食(shi),但沒有(you)做成(cheng)養(yang)生(sheng)美食(shi),多(duo)少(shao)讓人(ren)感到遺憾。
漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)一(yi)般用豆面(mian)制(zhi)作,用如掛面(mian)一(yi)樣細(xi)的細(xi)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)床(chuang)抿(min)(min)到(dao)開(kai)(kai)水鍋中煮熟后,把(ba)滾開(kai)(kai)的煮湯舀到(dao)已(yi)經下好(hao)佐料的碗(wan)里,再(zai)把(ba)熟抿(min)(min)曲(qu)撈(lao)進碗(wan)里,抿(min)(min)曲(qu)就漂(piao)在(zai)碗(wan)里的面(mian)湯上了。所以叫“漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)”。漂(piao)抿(min)(min)曲(qu)的味(wei)道好(hao)不好(hao),抿(min)(min)曲(qu)能(neng)否漂(piao)起來,秘密全(quan)在(zai)于放醬、醋、香油、鹽、蔥、芫荽等(deng)佐料擱多少與先(xian)后次(ci)序(xu)中。