品質特點
瑞(rui)草魁的品(pin)質特點是(shi),外形挺直略(lve)扁,肥(fei)碩飽滿,大小勻齊(qi),形狀一致,色澤翠綠(lv),白毫(hao)隱(yin)現,香氣高(gao)長(chang),清香持久,湯色淡黃綠(lv),清澈明亮,滋(zi)味鮮(xian)醇爽口(kou),回味儀雋厚,葉(xie)底(di)嫩綠(lv)明亮,均勻成(cheng)朵。
產地
茶中奇葩瑞草魁產于皖南(nan)山(shan)區(qu)(qu)郎縣以(yi)南(nan)姚(yao)村鄉白陽崗,在省(sheng)級風景(jing)區(qu)(qu)石佛(fo)山(shan)的(de)南(nan)邊(bian)與舉世聞名的(de)黃山(shan)、九(jiu)華山(shan)在同一緯度線上,這里(li)旅游資源(yuan)豐富、植(zhi)被率高、溫濕氣(qi)(qi)候、雨量充沛、氣(qi)(qi)候條件有利(li)各類動植(zhi)物沙生長。
唐(tang)朝貢茶(cha)"瑞(rui)草(cao)魁"就生長(chang)(chang)在白(bai)陽崗景區里(li),鴉山陽坡(po)白(bai)陽崗海(hai)拔高度(du)487米,古樹參天、林(lin)蒼竹翠、溪(xi)水(shui)叮咚(dong)、云霧繚繞,茶(cha)地(di)黑色(se)礫砂(sha)土,特(te)別(bie)適宜茶(cha)生長(chang)(chang),茶(cha)樹為(wei)自(zi)(zi)然野(ye)生,十(shi)分獨特(te),可采鮮葉(xie)面積8千余畝,成品茶(cha)形射扁挺(ting)直如雀舌,大(da)小(xiao)勻齊、色(se)澤翠綠(lv)、白(bai)毫隱現、香氣高長(chang)(chang)、清(qing)香持久、湯(tang)色(se)淡黃綠(lv)、清(qing)澈明亮、滋(zi)味鮮醇爽口、回(hui)味雋(jun)厚(hou)、實為(wei)名茶(cha)中(zhong)精品,自(zi)(zi)唐(tang)至(zhi)宋、明、清(qing)"瑞(rui)草(cao)魁"史料(liao)記載詳實,唐(tang)代詩(shi)人杜枚贊其"山實東(dong)吳秀,茶(cha)稱瑞(rui)草(cao)魁"。
名字的由來
"山實東吳秀(xiu),茶(cha)稱瑞草(cao)魁,剖符(fu)雖俗史(shi),修貢亦仙才"。這是唐代詩(shi)人杜牧《題茶(cha)山》詩(shi)中的精(jing)粹(cui)名(ming)句,以贊譽茶(cha)之佳品--瑞草(cao)魁。
歷史
古(gu)宣州鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)產(chan)(chan)茶(cha)(cha),唐(tang)代(dai)陸羽《茶(cha)(cha)經》中就有(you)記(ji)載。瑞(rui)草魁產(chan)(chan)于(yu)安徽南部的(de)(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha),屬(shu)歷史(shi)名(ming)茶(cha)(cha)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)古(gu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)街遺址,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺為當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)創制地(di)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈一支南北(bei)(bei)走(zou)向的(de)(de)余脈,海拔446米(mi)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈一支南北(bei)(bei)走(zou)向的(de)(de)余脈,東與(yu)廣德的(de)(de)相(xiang)(xiang)華尖并立,南與(yu)寧國的(de)(de)高峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)對峙,北(bei)(bei)與(yu)南漪湖相(xiang)(xiang)望(wang),西連宣州的(de)(de)碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉(quan)洞,古(gu)屬(shu)宣城,今(jin)屬(shu)郎(lang)溪(xi),處(chu)(chu)在郎(lang)溪(xi)與(yu)宣城交界處(chu)(chu)。五代(dai)蜀毛文錫《茶(cha)(cha)譜》記(ji)載:"宣城縣有(you)丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),小方餅橫鋪茍(gou)牙(ya)裝面。其(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)東為朝日所燭,號曰(yue)陽坡,其(qi)茶(cha)(cha)最勝,太守(shou)嘗薦于(yu)京(jing)洛人士,題曰(yue)丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡橫紋茶(cha)(cha)"。北(bei)(bei)宋梅(mei)堯臣《答(da)宣城張主簿(bu)遺鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)次其(qi)韻》詩云(yun):"昔觀唐(tang)人詩,茶(cha)(cha)韻鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)嘉,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)銜茶(cha)(cha)子生,遂同山(shan)(shan)(shan)名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),重(zhong)以初槍旗,采之(zhi)穿(chuan)煙霞,江南雖盛產(chan)(chan),處(chu)(chu)處(chu)(chu)無此(ci)茶(cha)(cha),纖嫩如(ru)雀(que)舌,煎烹比露(lu)芽,競收青(qing)蒻(ruo)焙,不重(zhong)漉酒紗……"明代(dai)王象晉《群芳譜》指明:"丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡橫紋茶(cha)(cha),一名(ming)瑞(rui)草魁"。明代(dai)曹(cao)學佺《名(ming)勝志》云(yun):"鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)在脊(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北(bei)(bei),產(chan)(chan)茶(cha)(cha),充貢茶(cha)(cha)。經云(yun):味與(yu)蘄州同。梅(mei)詢有(you)茶(cha)(cha)煮鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)雪滿甌之(zhi)句(ju)"。到了清(qing)代(dai),記(ji)述鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)的(de)(de)史(shi)料就更多了。
瑞草魁因其茶樹品種主(zhu)側脈(mo)交角偏大,形(xing)似橫向紋理,故名(ming)橫紋茶。又(you)因產(chan)(chan)于(yu)(yu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又(you)稱鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶。早在千(qian)年前就名(ming)噪全(quan)國,實屬我國歷(li)史名(ming)茶中(zhong)的奇葩。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一去南北走(zou)向的余脈(mo),東與(yu)相華尖(廣德市(shi))并立,南與(yu)高峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(寧國縣)對(dui)峙,北與(yu)南漪湖相望,西連碧(bi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉洞(dong)(宣州市(shi))旅游(you)區(qu)。古屬宣城縣管轄,后(hou)曾幾度變動,現處郎溪(xi)(xi)縣姚村和宣州市(shi)水東之間的接壤地(di)(di)(di)帶。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶產(chan)(chan)于(yu)(yu)該(gai)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)東面陽(yang)坡郎溪(xi)(xi)境內,據(ju)近人實地(di)(di)(di)考察發現,郎溪(xi)(xi)縣姚村鄉永(yong)豐村境內有古鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)待遺(yi)地(di)(di)(di),他們認(ren)為(wei),鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺為(wei)當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶創(chuang)制地(di)(di)(di)。
清代寧國縣(xian)張所勉在《鴉(ya)山(shan)辨》中寫道(dao):"按一統志(zhi),鴉(ya)山(shan)產(chan)茶(cha)舊常入貢,屬建(jian)(jian)平(ping),故辨之"。郎溪(xi)縣(xian)古稱建(jian)(jian)平(ping)縣(xian),始建(jian)(jian)于宋端(duan)拱元年(nian)(公元998年(nian))。清代談遷《棗林雜俎》和阿世坦《清會典》都記有(you)(you)建(jian)(jian)平(ping)縣(xian)歲(sui)貢芽茶(cha)二十五斤,因郎溪(xi)縣(xian)無其他歷(li)史名(ming)茶(cha),這(zhe)里的貢茶(cha)即指瑞草(cao)魁(kui)。又據清《宣(xuan)城縣(xian)志(zhi)》記載:"陽坡(po)山(shan)下,舊產(chan)佳茶(cha),名(ming)瑞草(cao)魁(kui),一名(ming)橫(heng)紋(wen)","水東之東,有(you)(you)象山(shan)、獅山(shan)、石壁(bi)山(shan)、雙峰山(shan)(古名(ming)丫山(shan))產(chan)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)。"這(zhe)就把(ba)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)產(chan)地,由鴉(ya)山(shan)陽坡(po)向(xiang)西(xi)擴展到水東以(yi)東的山(shan)區(qu)。據宣(xuan)州市有(you)(you)關部門在水東鎮(zhen)碧(bi)山(shan)、汪村、前(qian)進等自(zi)然(ran)村調(diao)查(cha),發現有(you)(you)樹齡(ling)50年(nian)以(yi)上的橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)品種。
綜上所(suo)述瑞草魁作為古代貢茶(cha),產于(yu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)陽坡(po),應是無疑的(de)。但(dan)由于(yu)自唐以來盛(sheng)名不(bu)衰,其產區不(bu)限于(yu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)也是順理之事。至于(yu)水東橫(heng)紋茶(cha)和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)橫(heng)紋茶(cha),孰先孰后,尚(shang)無史料可查(cha)證。而鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)之佳名,卻是不(bu)能否定的(de)史實。現今之瑞草魁即為1985~1986年間于(yu)郎溪縣姚村永(yong)豐村境內的(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)所(suo)創(chuang)制。
采摘與制作
瑞草魁于清明至谷雨(yu)間開采(cai)(cai)(cai),開始(shi)采(cai)(cai)(cai)一(yi)(yi)芽(ya)(ya)一(yi)(yi)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),芽(ya)(ya)長于葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),制(zhi)一(yi)(yi)等茶(cha)(cha);中期(qi)采(cai)(cai)(cai)一(yi)(yi)芽(ya)(ya)二葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)初(chu)展,芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)基本等長,制(zhi)二等茶(cha)(cha),后期(qi)一(yi)(yi)芽(ya)(ya)三葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),制(zhi)三等茶(cha)(cha)。要求不(bu)采(cai)(cai)(cai)魚(yu)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)(cai)病(bing)蟲(chong)為害葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)(cai)紫(zi)色芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)(cai)不(bu)符標(biao)準的芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。采(cai)(cai)(cai)茶(cha)(cha)時應輕采(cai)(cai)(cai)輕放,防止(zhi)損傷芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)(xie)(xie)。一(yi)(yi)般上午采(cai)(cai)(cai),及(ji)時送回,攤放4~6小時即可付(fu)制(zhi)。瑞草魁的制(zhi)造分殺青、理條做形、烘焙三道工(gong)序(xu)。
理(li)條(tiao)做形:鍋(guo)溫70~80℃,開始以抖為主(zhu),適當失(shi)水,約(yue)炒2分鐘,含水量(liang)下降(jiang)到40%左(zuo)右,茶條(tiao)不粘(zhan)手(shou)時,邊理(li)邊搓(cuo)(cuo)邊抖散,三種手(shou)勢(shi)交(jiao)替進行。搓(cuo)(cuo)條(tiao)手(shou)法(fa)以雙手(shou)合抱茶葉(xie)向前單向搓(cuo)(cuo)滾,搓(cuo)(cuo)滾數次,隨著(zhu)茶條(tiao)逐漸干燥,理(li)條(tiao)、搓(cuo)(cuo)滾用力應靈活掌(zhang)握,保持茶條(tiao)完整(zheng)、挺直、帶扁(bian)。當茶葉(xie)含水率降(jiang)到25%左(zuo)右,即可出鍋(guo)烘(hong)焙。
烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)焙:分(fen)頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)、二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)。頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)要求一(yi)只鍋配四只烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)籠,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)溫由(you)90℃→80℃→70℃→60℃依次降低(di),每只烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)3~4分(fen)鐘,全(quan)程約12~16分(fen)鐘。烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)到茶(cha)葉刺(ci)手,即可(ke)下烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)攤(tan)涼,剔除劣異,再行二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)。二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)采用(yong)文火低(di)溫慢(man)烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)。以發展茶(cha)香,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)溫60℃左右,投(tou)葉量0.5公斤,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)(hong)到足干,即中攤(tan)涼,即可(ke)攤(tan)涼裝罐(guan)。