品質特點
瑞草魁的(de)品(pin)質特點(dian)是,外形(xing)挺直略扁,肥碩飽滿,大小勻齊,形(xing)狀一(yi)致,色澤翠綠,白毫(hao)隱現(xian),香氣高(gao)長,清香持久,湯色淡黃綠,清澈明亮,滋味(wei)鮮(xian)醇爽口,回味(wei)儀雋厚,葉底嫩(nen)綠明亮,均勻成朵(duo)。
產地
茶中奇(qi)葩瑞草魁(kui)產于(yu)皖南(nan)山(shan)區郎縣以南(nan)姚村鄉白陽(yang)崗,在省級風景區石(shi)佛山(shan)的南(nan)邊(bian)與舉(ju)世聞(wen)名(ming)的黃山(shan)、九(jiu)華(hua)山(shan)在同一緯度線上,這(zhe)里旅(lv)游資源豐富、植被(bei)率高、溫(wen)濕氣(qi)候、雨量充沛、氣(qi)候條件有利各類(lei)動植物沙生長。
唐(tang)朝(chao)貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha)"瑞草魁(kui)"就生(sheng)長在白(bai)陽(yang)(yang)崗景區里,鴉山(shan)陽(yang)(yang)坡白(bai)陽(yang)(yang)崗海(hai)拔高(gao)度487米(mi),古樹(shu)參天(tian)、林蒼竹(zhu)翠、溪水(shui)叮咚、云(yun)霧(wu)繚繞,茶(cha)(cha)地黑色(se)礫砂土,特別適宜茶(cha)(cha)生(sheng)長,茶(cha)(cha)樹(shu)為自然野生(sheng),十(shi)分獨特,可采鮮葉面積8千余畝,成品茶(cha)(cha)形(xing)射扁挺直如雀舌,大小勻(yun)齊(qi)、色(se)澤翠綠(lv)、白(bai)毫隱(yin)現、香(xiang)氣(qi)高(gao)長、清(qing)香(xiang)持久、湯色(se)淡(dan)黃綠(lv)、清(qing)澈明亮、滋味鮮醇爽口(kou)、回味雋厚、實為名茶(cha)(cha)中精品,自唐(tang)至宋、明、清(qing)"瑞草魁(kui)"史(shi)料記載詳實,唐(tang)代詩人杜枚贊其"山(shan)實東(dong)吳(wu)秀,茶(cha)(cha)稱瑞草魁(kui)"。
名字的由來
"山(shan)(shan)實東吳秀,茶(cha)稱(cheng)瑞草(cao)魁,剖符(fu)雖俗史,修貢亦仙才"。這是唐代(dai)詩(shi)人杜牧(mu)《題(ti)茶(cha)山(shan)(shan)》詩(shi)中的精粹名句,以贊譽茶(cha)之佳品--瑞草(cao)魁。
歷史
古(gu)宣(xuan)州(zhou)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)產(chan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha),唐代(dai)陸羽《茶(cha)(cha)(cha)經》中(zhong)就(jiu)有(you)記載(zai)。瑞草魁產(chan)于安徽(hui)南(nan)部的(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha),屬歷(li)史(shi)名(ming)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上有(you)古(gu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)街(jie)遺(yi)址,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺為當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)創制地。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一支(zhi)南(nan)北(bei)走向的(de)余(yu)脈(mo),海拔446米鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一支(zhi)南(nan)北(bei)走向的(de)余(yu)脈(mo),東與(yu)廣德的(de)相(xiang)(xiang)華尖并立(li),南(nan)與(yu)寧(ning)國的(de)高峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)對(dui)峙,北(bei)與(yu)南(nan)漪湖相(xiang)(xiang)望(wang),西連宣(xuan)州(zhou)的(de)碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉洞,古(gu)屬宣(xuan)城,今屬郎溪,處(chu)在郎溪與(yu)宣(xuan)城交界處(chu)。五代(dai)蜀毛(mao)文錫《茶(cha)(cha)(cha)譜》記載(zai):"宣(xuan)城縣有(you)丫山(shan)(shan)(shan),小方(fang)餅(bing)橫鋪茍牙裝面。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)東為朝日所(suo)燭(zhu),號曰陽(yang)(yang)坡,其茶(cha)(cha)(cha)最勝,太(tai)守嘗薦(jian)于京洛人(ren)士(shi),題曰丫山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽(yang)(yang)坡橫紋(wen)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)"。北(bei)宋(song)梅堯臣《答宣(xuan)城張主簿(bu)遺(yi)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)次其韻》詩云:"昔觀唐人(ren)詩,茶(cha)(cha)(cha)韻鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)嘉,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)銜茶(cha)(cha)(cha)子生,遂同山(shan)(shan)(shan)名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),重(zhong)以初槍(qiang)旗,采之穿煙霞,江南(nan)雖盛產(chan),處(chu)處(chu)無(wu)此茶(cha)(cha)(cha),纖(xian)嫩如雀舌,煎烹比露芽,競(jing)收青蒻焙,不重(zhong)漉酒紗……"明代(dai)王(wang)象晉(jin)《群芳譜》指明:"丫山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽(yang)(yang)坡橫紋(wen)茶(cha)(cha)(cha),一名(ming)瑞草魁"。明代(dai)曹學佺《名(ming)勝志》云:"鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)在脊山(shan)(shan)(shan)北(bei),產(chan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha),充貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)。經云:味與(yu)蘄州(zhou)同。梅詢有(you)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)煮(zhu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)雪滿甌之句(ju)"。到了清代(dai),記述(shu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)的(de)史(shi)料就(jiu)更多了。
瑞(rui)草魁因(yin)其茶樹(shu)品種主側脈交角偏大,形似橫向紋理,故(gu)名橫紋茶。又(you)因(yin)產于鴉山(shan)(shan),又(you)稱鴉山(shan)(shan)茶。早(zao)在千年前就(jiu)名噪全(quan)國,實屬我國歷史名茶中的奇葩(pa)。鴉山(shan)(shan)為(wei)天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)脈一去南北(bei)走向的余(yu)脈,東與相華尖(廣德市)并立,南與高峰山(shan)(shan)(寧國縣(xian)(xian))對峙,北(bei)與南漪(yi)湖相望,西連碧山(shan)(shan)龍(long)泉洞(dong)(宣州市)旅游區。古(gu)屬宣城縣(xian)(xian)管轄,后(hou)曾(ceng)幾度變(bian)動,現(xian)處郎(lang)溪(xi)縣(xian)(xian)姚村(cun)(cun)和(he)宣州市水東之(zhi)間(jian)的接壤地帶。鴉山(shan)(shan)茶產于該山(shan)(shan)東面陽坡郎(lang)溪(xi)境內,據近人實地考察發現(xian),郎(lang)溪(xi)縣(xian)(xian)姚村(cun)(cun)鄉永豐村(cun)(cun)境內有古(gu)鴉山(shan)(shan)寺和(he)鴉山(shan)(shan)待遺地,他(ta)們(men)認為(wei),鴉山(shan)(shan)寺為(wei)當時(shi)鴉山(shan)(shan)茶創制地。
清代寧國縣張(zhang)所勉(mian)在《鴉山(shan)(shan)辨》中寫道:"按一統志,鴉山(shan)(shan)產茶(cha)(cha)舊常入貢(gong),屬建平(ping)(ping),故辨之"。郎溪縣古稱建平(ping)(ping)縣,始建于宋端拱元(yuan)年(公元(yuan)998年)。清代談遷《棗林雜俎》和阿世坦《清會(hui)典(dian)》都記(ji)有(you)建平(ping)(ping)縣歲貢(gong)芽茶(cha)(cha)二十(shi)五斤,因郎溪縣無其(qi)他歷史名茶(cha)(cha),這里(li)的(de)(de)貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha)即指瑞(rui)草(cao)魁。又據清《宣城縣志》記(ji)載:"陽坡山(shan)(shan)下,舊產佳茶(cha)(cha),名瑞(rui)草(cao)魁,一名橫(heng)紋","水(shui)東(dong)(dong)之東(dong)(dong),有(you)象山(shan)(shan)、獅山(shan)(shan)、石壁(bi)山(shan)(shan)、雙峰山(shan)(shan)(古名丫山(shan)(shan))產橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)。"這就把(ba)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)產地,由鴉山(shan)(shan)陽坡向西(xi)擴展到水(shui)東(dong)(dong)以東(dong)(dong)的(de)(de)山(shan)(shan)區。據宣州(zhou)市有(you)關(guan)部(bu)門在水(shui)東(dong)(dong)鎮碧山(shan)(shan)、汪村(cun)、前進等自然村(cun)調查,發(fa)現(xian)有(you)樹齡(ling)50年以上的(de)(de)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)品種。
綜上所(suo)述瑞草魁作為(wei)古代貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha),產(chan)于(yu)(yu)鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡,應是無疑(yi)的(de)。但由于(yu)(yu)自唐以(yi)來盛名不衰(shuai),其產(chan)區不限于(yu)(yu)鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)也是順(shun)理之(zhi)事。至于(yu)(yu)水東橫紋茶(cha)(cha)和鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)橫紋茶(cha)(cha),孰先(xian)孰后,尚無史(shi)料可查證(zheng)。而鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡橫紋茶(cha)(cha)之(zhi)佳(jia)名,卻是不能否定(ding)的(de)史(shi)實。現今之(zhi)瑞草魁即為(wei)1985~1986年間于(yu)(yu)郎(lang)溪縣姚村(cun)永豐村(cun)境內的(de)鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)所(suo)創制。
采摘與制作
瑞(rui)(rui)草魁(kui)于清(qing)明至(zhi)谷(gu)雨間開(kai)采(cai)(cai),開(kai)始(shi)采(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)一(yi)葉(xie),芽(ya)(ya)長于葉(xie),制(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)等茶;中期(qi)采(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)二葉(xie)初展,芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)基本等長,制(zhi)(zhi)二等茶,后期(qi)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)三葉(xie),制(zhi)(zhi)三等茶。要求不(bu)采(cai)(cai)魚葉(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)病蟲為(wei)害(hai)葉(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)紫色芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie),不(bu)采(cai)(cai)不(bu)符標準的芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)。采(cai)(cai)茶時應輕(qing)采(cai)(cai)輕(qing)放,防止損傷芽(ya)(ya)葉(xie)。一(yi)般上午采(cai)(cai),及時送回,攤放4~6小時即可付制(zhi)(zhi)。瑞(rui)(rui)草魁(kui)的制(zhi)(zhi)造分殺(sha)青、理條(tiao)做形、烘焙(bei)三道工序。
理(li)條(tiao)做形:鍋溫70~80℃,開始以抖為(wei)主,適當(dang)失水,約炒2分鐘(zhong),含水量下降(jiang)到(dao)40%左右(you),茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)不粘(zhan)手時,邊(bian)理(li)邊(bian)搓(cuo)(cuo)邊(bian)抖散,三種手勢(shi)交(jiao)替進行。搓(cuo)(cuo)條(tiao)手法(fa)以雙手合(he)抱(bao)茶(cha)(cha)葉向(xiang)(xiang)前單向(xiang)(xiang)搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun),搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun)數次(ci),隨著茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)逐漸干燥,理(li)條(tiao)、搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun)用力(li)應靈活(huo)掌握,保持(chi)茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)完(wan)整、挺直、帶(dai)扁。當(dang)茶(cha)(cha)葉含水率降(jiang)到(dao)25%左右(you),即可出鍋烘焙。
烘(hong)(hong)焙:分頭烘(hong)(hong)、二(er)烘(hong)(hong)。頭烘(hong)(hong)要(yao)求一只(zhi)鍋(guo)配四只(zhi)烘(hong)(hong)籠(long),烘(hong)(hong)溫(wen)由(you)90℃→80℃→70℃→60℃依(yi)次降(jiang)低,每只(zhi)烘(hong)(hong)3~4分鐘(zhong),全程約(yue)12~16分鐘(zhong)。烘(hong)(hong)到茶葉刺手,即(ji)可(ke)(ke)下烘(hong)(hong)攤涼(liang)(liang),剔(ti)除(chu)劣異,再行二(er)烘(hong)(hong)。二(er)烘(hong)(hong)采用文火低溫(wen)慢烘(hong)(hong)。以發展茶香,烘(hong)(hong)溫(wen)60℃左右,投葉量0.5公斤(jin),烘(hong)(hong)到足(zu)干,即(ji)中攤涼(liang)(liang),即(ji)可(ke)(ke)攤涼(liang)(liang)裝罐(guan)。