品質特點
瑞(rui)草魁的品質特點是(shi),外形挺直略扁,肥碩飽(bao)滿(man),大小勻齊,形狀一致(zhi),色(se)澤翠(cui)綠(lv),白毫隱(yin)現,香氣(qi)高(gao)長,清香持(chi)久(jiu),湯(tang)色(se)淡黃綠(lv),清澈(che)明亮(liang),滋味鮮醇爽(shuang)口(kou),回(hui)味儀雋厚,葉(xie)底嫩綠(lv)明亮(liang),均(jun)勻成(cheng)朵。
產地
茶中奇葩瑞草魁產于皖南山區郎縣以(yi)南姚村(cun)鄉(xiang)白(bai)陽崗(gang),在省級風景區石佛山的南邊與舉世(shi)聞名的黃山、九(jiu)華山在同一緯度線上,這(zhe)里旅游資(zi)源豐富、植被率高、溫濕氣候、雨量充(chong)沛、氣候條(tiao)件(jian)有(you)利各類(lei)動植物沙生長。
唐(tang)朝貢(gong)茶(cha)"瑞(rui)(rui)草魁(kui)"就生(sheng)長(chang)(chang)在白陽(yang)崗景區里,鴉山陽(yang)坡白陽(yang)崗海拔高度487米,古樹(shu)參天、林蒼竹翠、溪水叮咚、云霧繚繞,茶(cha)地黑(hei)色(se)礫(li)砂土(tu),特別適宜茶(cha)生(sheng)長(chang)(chang),茶(cha)樹(shu)為(wei)自(zi)然野生(sheng),十(shi)分獨特,可采鮮葉面積8千余畝(mu),成品茶(cha)形射扁(bian)挺直如雀(que)舌,大小勻齊、色(se)澤翠綠(lv)、白毫(hao)隱現、香(xiang)氣高長(chang)(chang)、清香(xiang)持久、湯色(se)淡黃綠(lv)、清澈明亮(liang)、滋味鮮醇爽口、回(hui)味雋(jun)厚、實(shi)為(wei)名茶(cha)中(zhong)精品,自(zi)唐(tang)至宋、明、清"瑞(rui)(rui)草魁(kui)"史料記(ji)載詳(xiang)實(shi),唐(tang)代詩人杜枚贊其(qi)"山實(shi)東吳(wu)秀,茶(cha)稱瑞(rui)(rui)草魁(kui)"。
名字的由來
"山(shan)實東吳秀,茶稱(cheng)瑞草魁,剖符雖(sui)俗史,修貢亦仙(xian)才"。這是唐代詩(shi)人杜牧《題茶山(shan)》詩(shi)中的(de)精粹名句,以贊譽(yu)茶之佳品(pin)--瑞草魁。
歷史
古宣(xuan)(xuan)州(zhou)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)產茶(cha)(cha),唐代(dai)(dai)陸羽《茶(cha)(cha)經(jing)》中就有(you)記(ji)(ji)載。瑞草(cao)魁產于安徽(hui)南(nan)(nan)(nan)部的(de)(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又名鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha),屬(shu)歷(li)史名茶(cha)(cha)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)有(you)古鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺(si)和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)街遺址,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺(si)為當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)創(chuang)制(zhi)地。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)(mo)一支南(nan)(nan)(nan)北走向(xiang)的(de)(de)余脈(mo)(mo),海拔446米鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為天目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)(mo)一支南(nan)(nan)(nan)北走向(xiang)的(de)(de)余脈(mo)(mo),東(dong)與(yu)廣(guang)德的(de)(de)相華(hua)尖(jian)并立,南(nan)(nan)(nan)與(yu)寧國(guo)的(de)(de)高峰(feng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)對(dui)峙,北與(yu)南(nan)(nan)(nan)漪(yi)湖相望,西連宣(xuan)(xuan)州(zhou)的(de)(de)碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉洞,古屬(shu)宣(xuan)(xuan)城,今(jin)屬(shu)郎溪,處在(zai)郎溪與(yu)宣(xuan)(xuan)城交界處。五(wu)代(dai)(dai)蜀毛文錫(xi)《茶(cha)(cha)譜(pu)》記(ji)(ji)載:"宣(xuan)(xuan)城縣(xian)有(you)丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),小(xiao)方餅橫(heng)鋪茍牙裝(zhuang)面。其(qi)山(shan)(shan)(shan)東(dong)為朝(chao)日(ri)所燭,號曰陽坡(po),其(qi)茶(cha)(cha)最勝(sheng),太守嘗(chang)薦于京洛人(ren)士,題曰丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)"。北宋梅(mei)堯臣(chen)《答宣(xuan)(xuan)城張主簿遺鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)次其(qi)韻》詩云(yun):"昔觀唐人(ren)詩,茶(cha)(cha)韻鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)嘉,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)銜茶(cha)(cha)子生(sheng),遂同山(shan)(shan)(shan)名鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),重以初(chu)槍旗,采之(zhi)穿煙(yan)霞,江南(nan)(nan)(nan)雖(sui)盛產,處處無此茶(cha)(cha),纖嫩如雀舌,煎烹(peng)比露芽,競(jing)收(shou)青(qing)蒻焙,不重漉酒紗……"明代(dai)(dai)王象晉《群芳譜(pu)》指明:"丫(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha),一名瑞草(cao)魁"。明代(dai)(dai)曹學佺《名勝(sheng)志》云(yun):"鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)在(zai)脊(ji)山(shan)(shan)(shan)北,產茶(cha)(cha),充貢茶(cha)(cha)。經(jing)云(yun):味與(yu)蘄州(zhou)同。梅(mei)詢有(you)茶(cha)(cha)煮鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)雪滿甌之(zhi)句"。到了清代(dai)(dai),記(ji)(ji)述鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)的(de)(de)史料就更多了。
瑞草魁因其茶(cha)樹品(pin)種主側脈(mo)(mo)交(jiao)角偏大,形似(si)橫向紋(wen)理(li),故名橫紋(wen)茶(cha)。又因產于(yu)鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan),又稱鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)。早在千年前(qian)就名噪(zao)全國,實(shi)(shi)屬我國歷史名茶(cha)中的奇葩。鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)天(tian)目山(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)(mo)一去(qu)南北走(zou)向的余(yu)脈(mo)(mo),東(dong)與(yu)(yu)相(xiang)華尖(廣德(de)市(shi))并立,南與(yu)(yu)高峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)(寧國縣(xian)(xian))對峙(zhi),北與(yu)(yu)南漪湖(hu)相(xiang)望,西連碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉洞(宣州市(shi))旅游(you)區。古屬宣城縣(xian)(xian)管轄,后曾幾度變(bian)動(dong),現處郎溪(xi)縣(xian)(xian)姚村和(he)宣州市(shi)水東(dong)之(zhi)間的接壤(rang)地帶(dai)。鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)產于(yu)該山(shan)(shan)(shan)東(dong)面陽(yang)坡郎溪(xi)境(jing)內(nei),據近(jin)人實(shi)(shi)地考察發(fa)現,郎溪(xi)縣(xian)(xian)姚村鄉永豐村境(jing)內(nei)有古鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺(si)和(he)鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)待遺地,他們認為(wei),鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)寺(si)為(wei)當時鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)創制(zhi)地。
清(qing)代寧國縣(xian)(xian)張所勉在《鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)辨》中(zhong)寫(xie)道:"按一(yi)統志,鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)產(chan)(chan)茶舊(jiu)常入(ru)貢,屬建平(ping),故辨之(zhi)"。郎溪縣(xian)(xian)古稱建平(ping)縣(xian)(xian),始建于宋端(duan)拱元年(nian)(公元998年(nian))。清(qing)代談遷(qian)《棗林雜俎》和阿世(shi)坦(tan)《清(qing)會(hui)典》都記(ji)有(you)(you)建平(ping)縣(xian)(xian)歲(sui)貢芽(ya)茶二十五(wu)斤,因郎溪縣(xian)(xian)無(wu)其他歷史名茶,這里的貢茶即指瑞草魁(kui)(kui)。又據清(qing)《宣(xuan)(xuan)城縣(xian)(xian)志》記(ji)載:"陽坡(po)山(shan)(shan)(shan)下,舊(jiu)產(chan)(chan)佳(jia)茶,名瑞草魁(kui)(kui),一(yi)名橫紋(wen)","水東(dong)(dong)之(zhi)東(dong)(dong),有(you)(you)象山(shan)(shan)(shan)、獅山(shan)(shan)(shan)、石壁山(shan)(shan)(shan)、雙峰山(shan)(shan)(shan)(古名丫山(shan)(shan)(shan))產(chan)(chan)橫紋(wen)茶。"這就把橫紋(wen)茶產(chan)(chan)地,由鴉山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)向(xiang)西擴展到水東(dong)(dong)以東(dong)(dong)的山(shan)(shan)(shan)區。據宣(xuan)(xuan)州市(shi)有(you)(you)關部門在水東(dong)(dong)鎮碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)、汪村、前進等自然村調查,發現有(you)(you)樹齡50年(nian)以上的橫紋(wen)茶品種。
綜上所(suo)述(shu)瑞(rui)草魁(kui)作(zuo)為(wei)古代(dai)貢茶,產(chan)于鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)陽坡,應是無(wu)疑(yi)的(de)(de)。但由于自唐以來盛(sheng)名不(bu)衰,其(qi)產(chan)區不(bu)限(xian)于鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)也(ye)是順理(li)之事(shi)。至于水(shui)東橫紋茶和鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)橫紋茶,孰(shu)先孰(shu)后(hou),尚(shang)無(wu)史料可查證(zheng)。而鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)陽坡橫紋茶之佳名,卻是不(bu)能否定的(de)(de)史實。現(xian)今之瑞(rui)草魁(kui)即為(wei)1985~1986年(nian)間(jian)于郎溪縣姚村(cun)永豐村(cun)境內的(de)(de)鴉(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)所(suo)創制。
采摘與制作
瑞草魁于清(qing)明(ming)至谷雨間(jian)開(kai)采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),開(kai)始采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)一(yi)葉(xie),芽(ya)(ya)(ya)長(chang)于葉(xie),制一(yi)等(deng)茶;中期采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)二(er)葉(xie)初展,芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)基本等(deng)長(chang),制二(er)等(deng)茶,后期一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)三葉(xie),制三等(deng)茶。要(yao)求不采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)魚葉(xie),不采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)病蟲為害葉(xie),不采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)紫色芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie),不采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)不符標準的(de)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)。采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)茶時(shi)應(ying)輕采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)輕放,防止損傷(shang)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)。一(yi)般上午采(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai)(cai),及時(shi)送(song)回(hui),攤放4~6小時(shi)即可付制。瑞草魁的(de)制造(zao)分殺青、理條做形、烘焙三道工序。
理條(tiao)做形(xing):鍋溫70~80℃,開(kai)始以(yi)抖為(wei)主,適當失水(shui),約炒2分(fen)鐘(zhong),含水(shui)量下降到40%左(zuo)右,茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)不粘手時,邊(bian)理邊(bian)搓(cuo)(cuo)邊(bian)抖散,三種(zhong)手勢交替進(jin)行。搓(cuo)(cuo)條(tiao)手法以(yi)雙手合抱茶(cha)(cha)葉向前單向搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun),搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun)數次,隨著茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)逐漸干燥,理條(tiao)、搓(cuo)(cuo)滾(gun)用(yong)力應靈活掌(zhang)握,保持(chi)茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)完整、挺(ting)直、帶扁。當茶(cha)(cha)葉含水(shui)率降到25%左(zuo)右,即可出鍋烘焙。
烘(hong)焙:分(fen)(fen)頭(tou)烘(hong)、二烘(hong)。頭(tou)烘(hong)要求(qiu)一只鍋(guo)配四只烘(hong)籠,烘(hong)溫(wen)由(you)90℃→80℃→70℃→60℃依(yi)次(ci)降低(di),每只烘(hong)3~4分(fen)(fen)鐘,全程約12~16分(fen)(fen)鐘。烘(hong)到(dao)茶葉(xie)刺手,即(ji)(ji)可下烘(hong)攤涼,剔除劣異,再行二烘(hong)。二烘(hong)采用文(wen)火低(di)溫(wen)慢(man)烘(hong)。以發展茶香,烘(hong)溫(wen)60℃左右,投葉(xie)量0.5公斤(jin),烘(hong)到(dao)足干,即(ji)(ji)中攤涼,即(ji)(ji)可攤涼裝罐。