品質特點
瑞草魁的品質特點是,外形挺直略(lve)扁(bian),肥碩飽滿,大小勻齊,形狀(zhuang)一(yi)致,色澤翠綠,白(bai)毫隱(yin)現,香(xiang)氣(qi)高(gao)長(chang),清香(xiang)持久,湯色淡(dan)黃綠,清澈明(ming)亮(liang),滋(zi)味(wei)鮮(xian)醇爽口,回味(wei)儀(yi)雋厚,葉(xie)底嫩綠明(ming)亮(liang),均(jun)勻成朵。
產地
茶中奇葩瑞草(cao)魁產于皖南山區(qu)郎縣以南姚村鄉白陽崗,在省級風(feng)景區(qu)石佛山的南邊與舉世聞名的黃山、九華山在同一緯度線上,這里旅游(you)資源(yuan)豐富(fu)、植(zhi)(zhi)被率(lv)高、溫濕氣候(hou)、雨量充沛(pei)、氣候(hou)條(tiao)件有利各(ge)類(lei)動(dong)植(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)沙(sha)生長。
唐朝貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)"瑞草魁"就生(sheng)長(chang)(chang)(chang)在白陽(yang)崗景區(qu)里,鴉山陽(yang)坡(po)白陽(yang)崗海(hai)拔高度487米,古(gu)樹參天、林(lin)蒼竹翠、溪水叮(ding)咚、云霧繚(liao)繞(rao),茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)地黑色礫(li)砂土,特別(bie)適宜茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)生(sheng)長(chang)(chang)(chang),茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)樹為(wei)自(zi)然野生(sheng),十(shi)分獨特,可采(cai)鮮葉面積8千余畝,成品茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)形射扁挺(ting)直如雀舌,大小勻齊、色澤翠綠(lv)、白毫隱(yin)現、香(xiang)氣高長(chang)(chang)(chang)、清(qing)(qing)香(xiang)持久、湯色淡(dan)黃(huang)綠(lv)、清(qing)(qing)澈明亮、滋味鮮醇爽口、回(hui)味雋厚、實為(wei)名(ming)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)中(zhong)精品,自(zi)唐至宋、明、清(qing)(qing)"瑞草魁"史料記載(zai)詳實,唐代詩人杜枚贊其(qi)"山實東吳秀,茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)稱瑞草魁"。
名字的由來
"山(shan)實東吳秀,茶(cha)(cha)稱瑞草魁(kui),剖符雖(sui)俗史,修(xiu)貢亦仙(xian)才"。這是唐(tang)代詩人杜牧《題(ti)茶(cha)(cha)山(shan)》詩中的精粹(cui)名句,以贊譽(yu)茶(cha)(cha)之佳品--瑞草魁(kui)。
歷史
古宣(xuan)(xuan)州鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)產茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha),唐(tang)代(dai)(dai)(dai)陸羽(yu)《茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)經》中就(jiu)有(you)記載。瑞(rui)草魁產于安徽南(nan)部的(de)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),又名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha),屬(shu)(shu)歷史名(ming)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)上(shang)有(you)古鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺和鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)街遺址,鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)寺為(wei)當時鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)創制地。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)天(tian)目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一(yi)支(zhi)南(nan)北走(zou)向的(de)余(yu)脈(mo),海拔446米鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)為(wei)天(tian)目(mu)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)脈(mo)一(yi)支(zhi)南(nan)北走(zou)向的(de)余(yu)脈(mo),東與廣德的(de)相華尖并立,南(nan)與寧國的(de)高(gao)峰(feng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)對峙(zhi),北與南(nan)漪湖相望,西連宣(xuan)(xuan)州的(de)碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)龍泉洞(dong),古屬(shu)(shu)宣(xuan)(xuan)城,今屬(shu)(shu)郎溪,處(chu)在郎溪與宣(xuan)(xuan)城交界處(chu)。五(wu)代(dai)(dai)(dai)蜀毛文錫《茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)譜》記載:"宣(xuan)(xuan)城縣有(you)丫(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan),小方餅(bing)橫(heng)鋪茍(gou)牙裝面。其山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)東為(wei)朝日所燭,號曰陽坡(po)(po),其茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)最勝,太守嘗薦于京洛人(ren)士,題(ti)曰丫(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)"。北宋梅(mei)堯臣(chen)《答宣(xuan)(xuan)城張主(zhu)簿遺鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)次其韻》詩云(yun):"昔觀唐(tang)人(ren)詩,茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)韻鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)嘉(jia),鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)銜茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)子生,遂同山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)名(ming)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya),重以初槍旗,采之穿煙霞,江南(nan)雖盛產,處(chu)處(chu)無此茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha),纖嫩如雀舌,煎烹比露芽,競收青蒻焙,不重漉酒紗……"明代(dai)(dai)(dai)王(wang)象晉(jin)《群芳譜》指明:"丫(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡(po)(po)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha),一(yi)名(ming)瑞(rui)草魁"。明代(dai)(dai)(dai)曹學佺(quan)《名(ming)勝志(zhi)》云(yun):"鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)在脊山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)北,產茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha),充貢茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)。經云(yun):味與蘄州同。梅(mei)詢(xun)有(you)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)煮鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)雪滿(man)甌之句"。到了清代(dai)(dai)(dai),記述鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)(cha)(cha)的(de)史料就(jiu)更多了。
瑞草魁因其(qi)茶(cha)(cha)樹(shu)品種主側(ce)脈交角偏大,形似(si)橫(heng)向(xiang)紋理,故(gu)名(ming)(ming)橫(heng)紋茶(cha)(cha)。又(you)因產于(yu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan),又(you)稱鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)。早在千年前就(jiu)名(ming)(ming)噪(zao)全國,實屬我國歷史名(ming)(ming)茶(cha)(cha)中的奇葩。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)為(wei)天目山(shan)(shan)脈一去南北(bei)(bei)走向(xiang)的余脈,東與(yu)相(xiang)華尖(廣德市)并立,南與(yu)高(gao)峰山(shan)(shan)(寧國縣(xian))對峙,北(bei)(bei)與(yu)南漪湖相(xiang)望,西連碧山(shan)(shan)龍泉(quan)洞(宣(xuan)州市)旅游區。古(gu)屬宣(xuan)城縣(xian)管(guan)轄,后(hou)曾(ceng)幾度變動,現處郎溪(xi)縣(xian)姚村(cun)和(he)宣(xuan)州市水東之間的接壤地(di)帶(dai)。鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)產于(yu)該山(shan)(shan)東面陽(yang)坡郎溪(xi)境(jing)內,據近人(ren)實地(di)考(kao)察發現,郎溪(xi)縣(xian)姚村(cun)鄉永豐村(cun)境(jing)內有古(gu)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)寺和(he)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)待遺(yi)地(di),他們認為(wei),鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)寺為(wei)當時(shi)鴉(ya)(ya)(ya)山(shan)(shan)茶(cha)(cha)創(chuang)制(zhi)地(di)。
清(qing)代(dai)寧國縣(xian)張所勉在《鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)辨(bian)(bian)》中寫(xie)道(dao):"按(an)一統(tong)志,鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)產茶(cha)(cha)舊常入貢(gong),屬建平(ping)(ping),故(gu)辨(bian)(bian)之"。郎溪縣(xian)古稱建平(ping)(ping)縣(xian),始建于宋端(duan)拱元年(nian)(公元998年(nian))。清(qing)代(dai)談遷《棗林雜俎(zu)》和阿(a)世坦《清(qing)會典》都記(ji)(ji)有(you)建平(ping)(ping)縣(xian)歲(sui)貢(gong)芽茶(cha)(cha)二(er)十五斤,因(yin)郎溪縣(xian)無(wu)其他歷史名茶(cha)(cha),這里的(de)貢(gong)茶(cha)(cha)即(ji)指瑞(rui)草魁。又據清(qing)《宣城縣(xian)志》記(ji)(ji)載:"陽坡山(shan)(shan)(shan)下,舊產佳茶(cha)(cha),名瑞(rui)草魁,一名橫(heng)紋(wen)","水(shui)東(dong)(dong)之東(dong)(dong),有(you)象山(shan)(shan)(shan)、獅山(shan)(shan)(shan)、石壁山(shan)(shan)(shan)、雙峰(feng)山(shan)(shan)(shan)(古名丫山(shan)(shan)(shan))產橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)(cha)。"這就把(ba)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)(cha)產地,由鴉(ya)山(shan)(shan)(shan)陽坡向西擴展到水(shui)東(dong)(dong)以(yi)東(dong)(dong)的(de)山(shan)(shan)(shan)區。據宣州市有(you)關部門在水(shui)東(dong)(dong)鎮碧山(shan)(shan)(shan)、汪村、前進(jin)等(deng)自然村調查,發(fa)現有(you)樹(shu)齡50年(nian)以(yi)上(shang)的(de)橫(heng)紋(wen)茶(cha)(cha)品種。
綜上(shang)所述瑞(rui)草魁作為古代貢茶,產于鴉(ya)山陽(yang)坡,應是(shi)無(wu)疑的(de)。但由于自唐以來盛名不衰,其(qi)產區(qu)不限于鴉(ya)山也(ye)是(shi)順理之(zhi)事。至于水(shui)東橫(heng)(heng)紋(wen)茶和鴉(ya)山橫(heng)(heng)紋(wen)茶,孰(shu)先(xian)孰(shu)后,尚無(wu)史料可查證。而鴉(ya)山陽(yang)坡橫(heng)(heng)紋(wen)茶之(zhi)佳名,卻是(shi)不能否定的(de)史實(shi)。現今之(zhi)瑞(rui)草魁即為1985~1986年(nian)間于郎溪縣姚村永豐(feng)村境內的(de)鴉(ya)山所創制。
采摘與制作
瑞草魁于清(qing)明(ming)至谷雨間開采(cai)(cai),開始采(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)一(yi)葉(xie)(xie),芽(ya)(ya)(ya)長(chang)(chang)于葉(xie)(xie),制(zhi)一(yi)等(deng)茶;中(zhong)期(qi)(qi)采(cai)(cai)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)二葉(xie)(xie)初展,芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)基本(ben)等(deng)長(chang)(chang),制(zhi)二等(deng)茶,后期(qi)(qi)一(yi)芽(ya)(ya)(ya)三葉(xie)(xie),制(zhi)三等(deng)茶。要求不(bu)(bu)(bu)采(cai)(cai)魚葉(xie)(xie),不(bu)(bu)(bu)采(cai)(cai)病蟲為害葉(xie)(xie),不(bu)(bu)(bu)采(cai)(cai)紫色芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie),不(bu)(bu)(bu)采(cai)(cai)不(bu)(bu)(bu)符標準的芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)。采(cai)(cai)茶時應輕采(cai)(cai)輕放,防止損傷芽(ya)(ya)(ya)葉(xie)(xie)。一(yi)般(ban)上午采(cai)(cai),及時送(song)回,攤放4~6小時即可付制(zhi)。瑞草魁的制(zhi)造分殺青、理條做形、烘(hong)焙(bei)三道(dao)工(gong)序(xu)。
理條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)做形:鍋溫(wen)70~80℃,開始(shi)以(yi)抖為(wei)主(zhu),適當失水(shui),約(yue)炒2分鐘,含(han)(han)水(shui)量(liang)下降到40%左(zuo)右(you)(you),茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)不粘手(shou)時,邊理邊搓(cuo)邊抖散,三種手(shou)勢交替(ti)進行。搓(cuo)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)手(shou)法以(yi)雙(shuang)手(shou)合抱茶(cha)(cha)葉向(xiang)前(qian)單向(xiang)搓(cuo)滾(gun),搓(cuo)滾(gun)數次,隨(sui)著茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)逐(zhu)漸干燥(zao),理條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)、搓(cuo)滾(gun)用力應靈活掌握,保持茶(cha)(cha)條(tiao)(tiao)(tiao)完整、挺直、帶扁。當茶(cha)(cha)葉含(han)(han)水(shui)率降到25%左(zuo)右(you)(you),即可出鍋烘(hong)焙(bei)。
烘(hong)(hong)(hong)焙:分(fen)頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)、二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。頭烘(hong)(hong)(hong)要求(qiu)一只鍋配四只烘(hong)(hong)(hong)籠,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)溫由90℃→80℃→70℃→60℃依(yi)次(ci)降低,每只烘(hong)(hong)(hong)3~4分(fen)鐘,全程約12~16分(fen)鐘。烘(hong)(hong)(hong)到(dao)茶(cha)葉刺(ci)手(shou),即(ji)(ji)可下烘(hong)(hong)(hong)攤(tan)涼,剔除(chu)劣異,再行二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。二烘(hong)(hong)(hong)采用(yong)文火低溫慢烘(hong)(hong)(hong)。以發展(zhan)茶(cha)香,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)溫60℃左(zuo)右,投葉量0.5公斤,烘(hong)(hong)(hong)到(dao)足干,即(ji)(ji)中(zhong)攤(tan)涼,即(ji)(ji)可攤(tan)涼裝罐。