歷史起源
面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)起源(yuan)于(yu)(yu)中(zhong)國(guo),漢代以前就(jiu)已(yi)出現“湯(tang)餅”。“湯(tang)餅”實際是(shi)(shi)一種(zhong)“片兒湯(tang)”,制作時一手(shou)托(tuo)面(mian)(mian)團,一手(shou)往(wang)湯(tang)鍋里(li)撕片。到北魏時(公元(yuan)486—534年),湯(tang)餅不(bu)再用(yong)手(shou)托(tuo),而是(shi)(shi)用(yong)案板(ban)、杖、刀等工(gong)具,將面(mian)(mian)團搟薄(bo)后再切成細條(tiao),這(zhe)就(jiu)是(shi)(shi)最(zui)早(zao)(zao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)。到唐代(公元(yuan)618—907年),人(ren)們(men)又把切好的(de)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)掛起來(lai)晾干,便于(yu)(yu)保存和隨時食用(yong)。于(yu)(yu)是(shi)(shi)最(zui)早(zao)(zao)的(de)掛面(mian)(mian)便誕生了(le)。唐代時,中(zhong)國(guo)和日本的(de)往(wang)來(lai)很頻繁,面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)和掛面(mian)(mian)的(de)制作技術很快就(jiu)傳入了(le)日本。歐洲(zhou)最(zui)早(zao)(zao)的(de)面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)類食品傳說是(shi)(shi)由旅行家(jia)馬可(ke)(ke)·波(bo)羅于(yu)(yu)1295年由中(zhong)國(guo)帶回意(yi)大利(li)的(de)。但此(ci)種(zhong)說法似乎(hu)并不(bu)可(ke)(ke)*。有的(de)歷史(shi)學家(jia)認(ren)為(wei),面(mian)(mian)條(tiao)是(shi)(shi)在富(fu)裕的(de)意(yi)大利(li)人(ren)家(jia)當廚師的(de)亞(ya)洲(zhou)奴隸傳入歐洲(zhou)的(de)。后來(lai)流傳至(zhi)福建莆田(tian)被當地勞(lao)動人(ren)民所(suo)接受,從而延伸(shen)出莆田(tian)鹵面(mian)(mian)。
為什么莆田鹵面能(neng)鉤起那么多人(ren)的(de)食(shi)欲呢,這當(dang)然有它(ta)獨到的(de)秘密了(le)。
在(zai)(zai)“興化(hua)府鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)” 館里(li),我們請教了那個做鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)師傅,聽他(ta)談(tan)談(tan)莆田(tian)(tian)鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)獨特(te)做法。莆田(tian)(tian)鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)關鍵在(zai)(zai)于面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)筋、熬(ao)高湯(tang)和(he)配(pei)料(liao)上(shang)(shang)。一(yi)般前一(yi)天(tian)晚(wan)上(shang)(shang)開始(shi)準備。面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)筋當然是(shi)講究的(de)(de)第一(yi)道工(gong)(gong)序(xu),不像山西面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還是(shi)拉面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)那樣(yang),現(xian)場把面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)團拉成細面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),這(zhe)個面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條要(yao)用不同面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)粉按比例加(jia)工(gong)(gong),打出(chu)來的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)要(yao)韌(ren)性,下鍋后(hou)不易糊掉。熬(ao)高湯(tang)也是(shi)重(zhong)要(yao)的(de)(de)程序(xu),挑選(xuan)豬骨(gu)頭里(li)最好的(de)(de)骨(gu)段,熬(ao)出(chu)來的(de)(de)高湯(tang)要(yao)白(bai)花花的(de)(de),香噴(pen)噴(pen)的(de)(de),每份高湯(tang)要(yao)兌(dui)多少水(shui)都(dou)是(shi)固定的(de)(de),稠了不行,稀了也不行。而后(hou)是(shi)配(pei)料(liao)上(shang)(shang),瘦肉、香菇,蝦干(gan),干(gan)貝,牡蠣,蟶(cheng)、韭菜(cai)是(shi)必備的(de)(de),正宗的(de)(de)莆田(tian)(tian)鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)還會(hui)加(jia)上(shang)(shang)紅(hong)菇,這(zhe)樣(yang)。前面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)所有工(gong)(gong)序(xu)都(dou)好了以后(hou),就是(shi)火功(gong)了,鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)之(zhi)所以是(shi)叫鹵(lu)(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),因為它(ta)是(shi)在(zai)(zai)文火中慢(man)慢(man)燉(dun)出(chu)來的(de)(de),讓高湯(tang)和(he)配(pei)料(liao)的(de)(de)味道滲透(tou)到(dao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)條里(li)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian),這(zhe)樣(yang)的(de)(de)話,出(chu)來的(de)(de)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)才(cai)能有味道,湯(tang)是(shi)粘稠的(de)(de)。
鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)在講究火候(hou)的(de)(de)同時(shi),也(ye)講究吃面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)時(shi)間,一(yi)(yi)般(ban)來(lai)說(shuo),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)出鍋(guo)3—5分(fen)鐘(zhong),就(jiu)要開(kai)吃了(le)(le),不然的(de)(de)話(hua),面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)就(jiu)糊了(le)(le),就(jiu)沒(mei)有(you)(you)(you)那種口感了(le)(le),所以對正(zheng)宗的(de)(de)莆田(tian)鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)來(lai)說(shuo),煮一(yi)(yi)大(da)鍋(guo)的(de)(de)鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)也(ye)是(shi)有(you)(you)(you)很大(da)風(feng)險的(de)(de),時(shi)間過久(jiu),就(jiu)要倒(dao)掉。沒(mei)完(wan)呢,還(huan)有(you)(you)(you)很多輔料:綠豆芽,韭菜段(duan)加(jia)少(shao)許油燙(tang)至(zhi)斷生投(tou)涼(liang),蒜頭切很細碎的(de)(de)丁小火炸酥(就(jiu)是(shi)日本面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)館那種金燦燦的(de)(de)蒜丁)。鹵(lu)面(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)(mian)已經(jing)成(cheng)為莆田(tian)人結婚喜宴上必(bi)備(bei)的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)道菜,也(ye)是(shi)家(jia)家(jia)戶(hu)戶(hu)過年時(shi)必(bi)備(bei)的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)道菜,亦是(shi)莆仙在外人士有(you)(you)(you)遇到莆田(tian)飯(fan)館必(bi)點的(de)(de)一(yi)(yi)道菜。
制作教程
材料
肉(rou)鹵300克(ke)、大白菜3片、香菇4朵、香菜2根、油面150克(ke)
或紅菇(gu)3朵(duo) 調味(wei)料(liao)
(1)清水4杯、鹽1茶(cha)匙、醬油(you)2大匙、濕(shi)淀粉4大匙
(2)胡椒粉少許、醋4大(da)匙(chi)
作法
1.大白(bai)(bai)菜洗凈、切(qie)絲(si),香(xiang)(xiang)菇泡軟切(qie)絲(si),用(yong)兩(liang)大匙油先(xian)炒香(xiang)(xiang)菇,再放入大白(bai)(bai)菜同(tong)(tong)炒至軟,加入調味料(1)燒(shao)開,改(gai)小火,并放入肉鹵同(tong)(tong)煮。
2.另外半(ban)鍋(guo)水燒開(kai),放入面條煮(zhu)熟,撈(lao)入碗內。
3.待肉鹵已熟且湯(tang)汁(zhi)黏(nian)稠時(shi)關火,加入(ru)調味料(2)及洗凈、切碎的香菜(cai)末(mo)。
4.盛入碗內的(de)面條,淋上煮好的(de)肉鹵即(ji)可(ke)食用。
鹵湯原(yuan)料(liao):干(gan)貝(bei)、蝦(xia)仁、蟶(cheng)干(gan)、香菇、魷魚干(gan)、瘦肉、鴨(ya)蛋、蒜
鹵湯做法
1、將香菇、魷魚干切(qie)成條(tiao)狀,與干貝一起放水中浸泡15分(fen)鐘后瀝干備(bei)用。瘦肉切(qie)片(pian),加地瓜粉(fen)蘸勻。
2、將(jiang)蒜切(qie)碎倒(dao)入油中爆香,然后倒(dao)入香菇、魷魚(yu)干、干貝、蝦仁翻炒幾(ji)下。
3、另在一鍋中燒水(shui)(水(shui)加多少視食(shi)量而定,一般兩個人需加約1000ml的水(shui)),倒入2中炒好的原料及瘦肉。
4、待湯燒(shao)開(kai)后(hou)(hou),加(jia)勾芡,然后(hou)(hou)將鴨蛋打碎攪拌均勻后(hou)(hou)徐(xu)徐(xu)倒(dao)入沸(fei)湯中(zhong)。
5、加鹽、味精調味后,一鍋(guo)地道的鹵面(mian)湯底變新鮮出鍋(guo)了!