興圣教寺塔(ta)是全(quan)國重點文物保護單位,位于松(song)江區中山東(dong)路南側方塔(ta)園內。此塔(ta)建造于公(gong)元1068~1094年(nian)間(北宋熙寧(ning)至元祐年(nian)間),以后歷代均(jun)有修(xiu)葺。
仰觀塔身外(wai)形,古樸秀美,高聳入(ru)云。頂部由復盆、相輪、寶瓶(ping)等組(zu)成高達8米的(de)塔剎。有4條鐵索(suo)從尖頂分別系向9層(ceng)的(de)四角塔檐,名(ming)“浪風索(suo)”。塔檐翹(qiao)角處(chu)系有銅鈴,名(ming)曰“驚鳥”,上下計有36只。風吹(chui)銅鈴,叮當(dang)聲,悅耳動聽,響徹方圓數里(li)。登高九層(ceng)外(wai)廊,憑欄(lan)俯瞰,全城(cheng)景(jing)色,盡收眼底。
塔(ta)的形(xing)制結(jie)(jie)構(gou)繼承了(le)唐代(dai)(dai)磚塔(ta)的建筑(zhu)風格,磚木(mu)結(jie)(jie)構(gou),樓閣式,平面(mian)(mian)(mian)呈正方形(xing),故俗(su)稱“方塔(ta)”。塔(ta)總高42.5米(mi)(一說(shuo)為42.65米(mi)),共9層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng),底層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)每(mei)邊寬(kuan)6米(mi),向上逐層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)收縮,層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)高也隨(sui)之降低,塔(ta)內各(ge)(ge)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)有木(mu)梯(ti)。塔(ta)身各(ge)(ge)面(mian)(mian)(mian)均(jun)有磚砌圓形(xing)壁(bi)柱,柱上裝有木(mu)制斗(dou)拱來承托(tuo)木(mu)構(gou)的瓦(wa)屋檐。磚身外(wai)壁(bi)每(mei)面(mian)(mian)(mian)建磚制柱劃(hua)分(fen)為3間,正間設(she)壸(kǔn)門,入內為方室。磚身各(ge)(ge)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)外(wai)均(jun)有腰檐、平座(zuo)、欄(lan)干,底層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)在圍廊中(zhong)置扶(fu)梯(ti),穿過磚身中(zhong)的踏步進入第(di)二層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng),其余各(ge)(ge)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)皆在方室內置樓板(ban)和木(mu)梯(ti)。第(di)八(ba)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)設(she)橫木(mu)交叉,承托(tuo)塔(ta)心木(mu),長(chang)13米(mi),穿出(chu)頂(ding)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)8.20米(mi),套上鐵(tie)制的塔(ta)剎(cha),以(yi)覆(fu)盆、露盤、相輪、寶瓶等組成。塔(ta)上的木(mu)構(gou)件多為宋(song)代(dai)(dai)原(yuan)物,第(di)七(qi)、八(ba)、九(jiu)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)則是清代(dai)(dai)改(gai)砌的,形(xing)制與下面(mian)(mian)(mian)幾層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)不(bu)同。在塔(ta)基下還(huan)發現有地宮一座(zuo),安放有石匣1個(ge),銀盒(he)石匣2個(ge),匣內藏有宋(song)代(dai)(dai)錢幣(bi)42枚、銅菩薩坐像(xiang)和臥(wo)像(xiang)各(ge)(ge)1尊。
興圣教寺塔是江南地區造型(xing)美的古塔之一,為人們了解唐代(dai)佛(fo)塔的形制,提供了珍貴的實物資料(liao)。
公元(yuan)949年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(五(wu)代后漢乾祐(you)二(er)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)),邑人(ren)張仁舍宅建(jian)(jian)興(xing)圣(sheng)教寺(si)。1068~1094年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(北宋熙(xi)寧至(zhi)元(yuan)祐(you)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)),寺(si)僧(seng)(seng)希階(jie)、如(ru)納、如(ru)禮等募建(jian)(jian)此塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)。1284年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(元(yuan)至(zhi)元(yuan)二(er)十一(yi)(yi)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))僧(seng)(seng)人(ren)行高(gao)募款修(xiu)葺。1302年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(元(yuan)大(da)德六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))狂風(feng)吹落塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)剎相輪,毀欄干,僧(seng)(seng)清(qing)裕募款修(xiu)理,時有任叔實(shi)撰(zhuan)《修(xiu)興(xing)圣(sheng)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)記略》,述(shu)其(qi)始末(mo)。元(yuan)末(mo),寺(si)遭兵燹,殿(dian)(dian)宇全毀,而塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)與鐘(zhong)樓(lou)獨存(現(xian)在(zai)(zai)方塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)西面(mian)有一(yi)(yi)塊巨石,據說是(shi)當年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)興(xing)圣(sheng)教寺(si)大(da)雄寶殿(dian)(dian)柱(zhu)子下的柱(zhu)礎)。1370年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(明(ming)洪(hong)武(wu)三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)),寺(si)僧(seng)(seng)在(zai)(zai)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)旁建(jian)(jian)懺堂,額曰“興(xing)圣(sheng)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)院”。1395年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(明(ming)洪(hong)武(wu)二(er)十八(ba)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)),塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)又壞于(yu)狂風(feng),僧(seng)(seng)安(an)哲、正傳等重修(xiu),1415年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(永樂十三(san)(san)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))釋心泰撰(zhuan)《重修(xiu)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)記略》。1447年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(明(ming)正統(tong)十二(er)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))巡(xun)撫周忱捐款重建(jian)(jian)。1573~1619年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(明(ming)萬(wan)歷(li)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian))為募款修(xiu)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta),僧(seng)(seng)大(da)振斷(duan)臂(bei)以示虔(qian)誠。1660年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(清(qing)順治十七年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))、1770年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(乾隆(long)三(san)(san)十五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))和1821~1850年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian)(道光年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)間(jian))均曾(ceng)修(xiu)葺——據塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)中所載,1770年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(乾隆(long)三(san)(san)十五(wu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))更換(huan)了(le)塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)剎與塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)心木,1846年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(道光二(er)十六(liu)年(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian)(nian))為保(bao)護塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)心木在(zai)(zai)柱(zhu)外(wai)包了(le)一(yi)(yi)層柏木。該塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)在(zai)(zai)清(qing)代被譽為江南造(zao)型美的塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta),清(qing)代《松江竹枝詞》有一(yi)(yi)首專記方塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta):“巍(wei)巍(wei)樓(lou)闕(que)梵(fan)王(wang)宮,金碧名(ming)藍杳靄中。近海(hai)浮屠三(san)(san)十六(liu),怎如(ru)方塔(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)(ta)玲(ling)瓏(long)。”
1860年(清咸豐十年)鐘樓(lou)(lou)及塔(ta)院俱毀。1937年(民(min)國(guo)26年),城隍廟(miao)殿宇大(da)部分遭日軍轟炸(zha)焚燒,而(er)塔(ta)與廟(miao)前(qian)照(zhao)壁(bi)幸(xing)免于難。興(xing)圣(sheng)教寺塔(ta)歷(li)經百(bai)年時光以及炮火的洗(xi)禮(li),至(zhi)20世紀五六十年代已(yi)損(sun)壞(huai)嚴重,底座走廊和塔(ta)內各層木(mu)結構已(yi)大(da)部分毀壞(huai),樓(lou)(lou)梯僅剩(sheng)一(yi)級,塔(ta)身(shen)向西(xi)北傾斜約54厘米(mi)。
1975~1977年(nian)(nian),上(shang)海市(shi)政府撥款重修(xiu)該塔(ta)。1978年(nian)(nian),上(shang)海市(shi)園(yuan)林(lin)局以方塔(ta)為(wei)中心,在其周圍(wei)征地辟建方塔(ta)園(yuan)。
1962年9月7日,興圣教(jiao)寺塔(ta)(方塔(ta))由(you)市政府(fu)公布為上海市文(wen)物(wu)保護(hu)單位(wei)(wei)。1996年11月20日由(you)國務院(yuan)公布為全國重(zhong)點文(wen)物(wu)保護(hu)單位(wei)(wei)。
1955年(nian)7月,當時松江縣文教科采取了保護性(xing)措施。
1963年(nian),上海市(shi)文物保管委員會全面勘查該塔(ta)的結構和(he)損壞情(qing)況,同年(nian)10月,清理地(di)面,確定塔(ta)身圍廊(lang)廊(lang)柱的地(di)位以及歷代修繕時所用磚瓦等。1973年(nian)4月,擬訂《松江興(xing)圣(sheng)教寺塔(ta)修繕方(fang)案》,于1975年(nian)開工(gong)修繕,1977年(nian)5月竣工(gong),使用經費(fei)20余萬元。
修復前,方塔(ta)各層木(mu)(mu)構件,從二層到九層,存(cun)(cun)斗栱177朵,保存(cun)(cun)宋代原(yuan)物(wu)111朵,占(zhan)62.7%,以松木(mu)(mu)制(zhi),華栱用足材,卷剎柔和,符合(he)宋《營造法式》大木(mu)(mu)作制(zhi)度的規定,第七、八、九層斗栱全部為清(qing)乾(qian)隆年(nian)間修繕時更換(huan)。撩檐枋(fang)、羅漢枋(fang)等亦有(you)一部分為宋代原(yuan)物(wu)。塔(ta)剎與塔(ta)心(xin)木(mu)(mu)均為1770年(nian)(乾(qian)隆三十(shi)五年(nian))更換(huan),此事在(zai)塔(ta)剎上(shang)有(you)鑄,在(zai)塔(ta)心(xin)木(mu)(mu)上(shang)亦有(you)鐫刻。1846年(nian)(道光廿六年(nian))修理時,因塔(ta)心(xin)木(mu)(mu)損傷(shang),在(zai)柱外(wai)包(bao)一層柏(bo)(bo)木(mu)(mu),柏(bo)(bo)木(mu)(mu)上(shang)對(dui)此事有(you)記載。
在(zai)市文(wen)管會指(zhi)導下,松(song)江文(wen)化部(bu)門組(zu)織力量(liang),以(yi)“不(bu)改變原(yuan)狀(zhuang)’為原(yuan)則進行復原(yuan)大修(xiu)。凡宋代(dai)原(yuan)構件(jian)以(yi)及元、明、清代(dai)修(xiu)補(bu)(bu)件(jian),未(wei)損壞(huai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)全部(bu)保留;損壞(huai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)予以(yi)修(xiu)補(bu)(bu)、加固;殘缺的(de)(de)(de)(de)照(zhao)(zhao)原(yuan)樣修(xiu)復;找不(bu)到(dao)原(yuan)樣的(de)(de)(de)(de)則參照(zhao)(zhao)江南地區同時代(dai)的(de)(de)(de)(de)塔型,結(jie)合此塔的(de)(de)(de)(de)風(feng)格特點,予以(yi)重(zhong)制。
重(zhong)(zhong)修時,因塔(ta)剎及塔(ta)心木損壞嚴重(zhong)(zhong),換(huan)去腐蝕的塔(ta)心木,重(zhong)(zhong)裝塔(ta)剎,補換(huan)相輪。
塔(ta)剎(cha)由塔(ta)心(xin)木、銅(tong)葫蘆、相輪鑄(zhu)件(jian)(jian)、浪風(feng)(feng)索等組(zu)成(cheng),高7.85米。相輪鑄(zhu)件(jian)(jian)共(gong)29件(jian)(jian),重(zhong)約(yue)5噸。塔(ta)心(xin)木長(chang)15米余(yu),重(zhong)約(yue)900公斤,因年(nian)久(jiu)滲水,腐(fu)朽嚴重(zhong)。此次修繕,重(zhong)鑄(zhu)更(geng)換八角(jiao)龍頭露(lu)盤1個(ge),相輪5個(ge),鐵箍筒7個(ge),仰蓮覆盆1個(ge),并新換了塔(ta)心(xin)木。恢復(fu)各層扶梯、樓(lou)板、平座、腰檐和“尋杖式”欄桿,重(zhong)建了圍廊。對歷代遺(yi)存的木構件(jian)(jian),都采(cai)用間苯二酚(fen)縮(suo)水甘油醚調(diao)制的高分子封護加固劑涂抹,其(qi)余(yu)木構件(jian)(jian)都用桐(tong)油涂刷多(duo)遍。經過加固涂刷后的木構件(jian)(jian),既能防(fang)蛀、防(fang)腐(fu),又增加了強度(du)和承力(li),而(er)木紋清晰,保持“古(gu)舊”的風(feng)(feng)貌。
經過修(xiu)復后的方塔(ta)(ta),造型美觀,做工(gong)精巧。尤其(qi)是斗拱、壺門上(shang)的月梁及磚身上(shang)的撩(liao)檐枋等,十(shi)分(fen)古樸秀(xiu)美,其(qi)中斗拱保存宋(song)代原物60%以(yi)上(shang),為江(jiang)南(nan)古塔(ta)(ta)建(jian)筑所罕見。
除了興圣(sheng)教(jiao)寺塔本身(shen)的(de)文(wen)物價值之(zhi)外(wai),人(ren)們于20世紀70年(nian)代對其進行整修(xiu)期間,還在塔中發現了很多其他(ta)的(de)文(wen)物。
在方塔第(di)三(san)層西(xi)面外檐(yan)柱頭鋪作與(yu)補(bu)間鋪作間的栱眼壁上,發現有彩(cai)色佛像畫二尊,結跏趺坐(zuo),面部已(yi)較模糊,經鑒定為宋代(dai)繪法。
1974年由上(shang)海博物館考古組清理方塔(ta)地(di)宮,在底層地(di)面正中部分,揭開1.5平方米(mi)的方磚,露出地(di)宮券頂,地(di)宮為磚砌方室,內(nei)(nei)置石(shi)(shi)函(han),器身(shen)下部浮雕(diao)雙(shuang)龍、云氣,兩端(duan)刻雙(shuang)獅(shi)。蓋上(shang)置銅佛一(yi)尊,面北(bei)結跏趺坐,旁散置唐宋錢(qian)幣(bi)41枚。石(shi)(shi)函(han)內(nei)(nei)有漆(qi)匣,以帛包(bao)裹(guo),已(yi)腐,匣內(nei)(nei)有銅臥(wo)佛一(yi)尊,左右有兩銀盒,盒內(nei)(nei)藏舍(she)(she)利和(he)(he)動物化石(shi)(shi),底部鐫“蔡溥舍(she)(she)銀造匣追(zhui)薦(jian)亡(wang)妻俞(yu)氏(shi)超(chao)生”,“郭椿(chun)年舍(she)(she)銀匣追(zhui)薦(jian)亡(wang)母趙氏(shi)超(chao)生”,漆(qi)匣底還有錢(qian)幣(bi)97枚。錢(qian)幣(bi)有唐開元通(tong)寶(bao)和(he)(he)北(bei)宋政和(he)(he)、宣和(he)(he)通(tong)寶(bao)、南宋建炎通(tong)寶(bao),均藏上(shang)海博物館。