焦(jiao)圈(quan)(quan)是一(yi)種老北(bei)(bei)京(jing)傳(chuan)統的特色(se)小吃,色(se)澤深黃(huang),形如手(shou)鐲,焦(jiao)香酥(su)脆,風味獨(du)特。在老北(bei)(bei)京(jing),男(nan)女老少都愛吃焦(jiao)圈(quan)(quan)。北(bei)(bei)京(jing)人吃燒餅愛夾焦(jiao)圈(quan)(quan),喝豆汁的時候也愛就著焦(jiao)圈(quan)(quan)。
焦圈(quan)是一(yi)種古老的食(shi)品(pin)。宋代蘇東坡曾寫過(guo)一(yi)首詩(shi),相傳是中國(guo)第一(yi)首產品(pin)廣告詩(shi):“纖手搓成玉數尋(xun),碧油煎出嫩黃深,夜來春睡(shui)無(wu)輕(qing)重,壓褊佳人(ren)纏(chan)臂(bei)金(jin)。”明(ming)代李時(shi)珍的《本(ben)草綱目·谷部》也有記載:“入少鹽,牽索(suo)扭捻成環釧之形,油煎食(shi)之。”焦圈(quan)可貯(zhu)存十(shi)天半月,質不變,脆(cui)如初,酥脆(cui)不皮,是千百年來人(ren)們喜愛(ai)的食(shi)品(pin)。
一、將精鹽、堿(jian)面(mian)、明礬(fan)(fan)一起放人(ren)盆中(zhong),輕輕砸碎,加入溫(wen)水150克,用木槌研攪(jiao)(jiao)。研攪(jiao)(jiao)時,盆中(zhong)發出“嗡(weng)嗡(weng)”的(de)聲音,并(bing)均勻(yun)地冒(mao)起半個米粒大的(de)泡(pao)沫,才符合(he)要求。如研攪(jiao)(jiao)時不(bu)(bu)起泡(pao)沫,即是堿(jian)大,可適(shi)量加些明礬(fan)(fan);如泡(pao)沫很(hen)大,且較長時間不(bu)(bu)消(xiao)失,則是礬(fan)(fan)大,可再(zai)加些堿(jian)。研攪(jiao)(jiao)合(he)適(shi)后,再(zai)倒(dao)人(ren)溫(wen)水150克攪(jiao)(jiao)勻(yun),即成調料溶液。
二、從盆(pen)(pen)中取(qu)出1/10的(de)(de)溶(rong)(rong)液(ye)(ye)留起(qi)(qi)來備用(yong)。將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)粉倒人盆(pen)(pen)內,與溶(rong)(rong)液(ye)(ye)一起(qi)(qi)和成面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)。從留起(qi)(qi)來的(de)(de)溶(rong)(rong)液(ye)(ye)中取(qu)1/2灑(sa)在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)上(shang)揉勻,并將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)對折一下(xia),蓋上(shang)濕布(bu),餳(xing)(xing)15分鐘(zhong)。然后(hou),取(qu)下(xia)蓋布(bu),雙(shuang)手蘸(zhan)上(shang)剩下(xia)的(de)(de)溶(rong)(rong)液(ye)(ye)將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)按揉幾分鐘(zhong),翻過面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)再按揉幾分鐘(zhong),仍將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)對折一下(xia),蓋上(shang)濕布(bu),再餳(xing)(xing)15分鐘(zhong)。第三次,在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)涂上(shang)一層(ceng)花生油,再按揉一遍,對折起(qi)(qi)來餳(xing)(xing)15分鐘(zhong)。第四(si)次,將(jiang)(jiang)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)放在(zai)抹(mo)了油的(de)(de)案板上(shang)摁平,用(yong)小炸(zha)刀(dao)在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)上(shang)隨意劃一些橫豎交叉的(de)(de)刀(dao)紋(以使其餳(xing)(xing)得快),對折后(hou),在(zai)面(mian)(mian)(mian)團(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)(tuan)表(biao)面(mian)(mian)(mian)涂上(shang)薄薄的(de)(de)一層(ceng)油,再餳(xing)(xing)60分鐘(zhong)。
三、用(yong)小(xiao)(xiao)炸刀將(jiang)餳好的面(mian)團切割下3.3厘(li)米(mi)(mi)寬、19.8厘(li)米(mi)(mi)長的一條,有油(you)(you)的一面(mian)朝上,橫(heng)放在油(you)(you)案(an)板的邊沿上,用(yong)手壓薄壓平。然后(hou),將(jiang)條的一端用(yong)左(zuo)手壓在案(an)上,右手將(jiang)另一端向外一抻,抻成很薄的長條。用(yong)刀將(jiang)長條每隔2.0厘(li)米(mi)(mi)寬剁一刀,即成為制坯的小(xiao)(xiao)劑。隨后(hou)取兩(liang)個小(xiao)(xiao)劑,油(you)(you)面(mian)對油(you)(you)面(mian)地橫(heng)著(zhu)摞起來,用(yong)雙手的中(zhong)(zhong)指在小(xiao)(xiao)劑中(zhong)(zhong)間(jian)橫(heng)摁一道(dao)溝,再用(yong)小(xiao)(xiao)炸刀順(shun)著(zhu)溝切一道(dao)縫,即為面(mian)坯。
四、將花生油(you)倒(dao)人鍋內(nei),在旺火上(shang)燒到六成(cheng)熱(re)(re),把面(mian)坯(pi)逐個(ge)稍(shao)抻一(yi)(yi)下(xia),,放人溫鍋中炸(zha)。面(mian)坯(pi)在熱(re)(re)油(you)中很快就浮起來,立即(ji)用長筷(kuai)子(zi)將它翻(fan)過,并(bing)將筷(kuai)子(zi)插(cha)入縫(feng)(feng)中,來回輕(qing)輕(qing)地(di)碰撞縫(feng)(feng)的兩端,將縫(feng)(feng)碰寬后,再用筷(kuai)子(zi)將縫(feng)(feng)撐(cheng)圓(yuan),并(bing)套在筷(kuai)子(zi)上(shang)劃幾個(ge)圓(yuan)圈,面(mian)坯(pi)就成(cheng)了(le)一(yi)(yi)個(ge)圓(yuan)形的圈。這時要勤翻(fan)過,每個(ge)至(zhi)少翻(fan)4次,將圈兩面(mian)都炸(zha)成(cheng)深黃色即(ji)成(cheng)。
一般(ban)人(ren)群(qun)均可食用(yong),但(dan)糖尿(niao)病、高血脂人(ren)群(qun)、孕婦不宜食用(yong);消化力弱(ruo)、老年人(ren)、少兒(er)不宜多食。該食物(wu)太(tai)過油(you)膩,可使人(ren)記(ji)憶(yi)力衰退,加速人(ren)體(ti)老化。