煎餅(bing)(bing)食(shi)(shi)品有(you)著悠久(jiu)的歷史的傳統面(mian)食(shi)(shi),早在(zai)(zai)春秋戰國時(shi)期,山東(dong)沂蒙人民(min)即開始食(shi)(shi)用(yong)煎餅(bing)(bing),相(xiang)傳孟姜女哭(ku)長(chang)城,所帶食(shi)(shi)物即煎餅(bing)(bing)。清(qing)代蒲(pu)松(song)齡在(zai)(zai)其《煎餅(bing)(bing)賦(fu)》中寫到,“煎餅(bing)(bing)則合米豆(dou)為(wei)(wei)之(zhi),齊人以代面(mian)食(shi)(shi)”,“圓(yuan)如銀月(yue),大(da)如銅缸,薄如剡溪之(zhi)紙,色(se)如黃鶴之(zhi)翎,此煎餅(bing)(bing)之(zhi)定(ding)制也”。文中,蒲(pu)松(song)齡用(yong)它那如掾大(da)筆(bi),把(ba)煎餅(bing)(bing)的形狀、色(se)澤(ze)、大(da)小、原料、制作以及味道、功(gong)用(yong)等描(miao)述得淋漓(li)盡致。千百年來,人們在(zai)(zai)實(shi)踐(jian)中不斷改進工(gong)藝,增添品種(zhong),使其成為(wei)(wei)久(jiu)盛(sheng)不衰、享譽海內外的名優食(shi)(shi)品。
制作煎(jian)餅(bing)有獨特的(de)(de)(de)工(gong)具,主(zhu)要有鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)、攤(tan)(tan)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)、推子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)、油鬧子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)等。鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi),系用(yong)(yong)生(sheng)鐵(tie)鑄造,直(zhi)(zhi)徑一米,中間微凸略厚,邊緣(yuan)較薄,形如禿頭(tou)鍋蓋,上面平整光滑(hua),下面有三(san)支(zhi)角(jiao)可以作為支(zhi)撐。過去的(de)(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)是(shi)固定的(de)(de)(de),有人(ren)又(you)制出(chu)了可以轉動的(de)(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi),以提高產量。攤(tan)(tan)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(又(you)稱(cheng)刮子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)),用(yong)(yong)木片(pian)做成,呈長方形,長寬比例為2:1,把手居中,看(kan)起(qi)來很像一把砍刀,而且更(geng)光滑(hua),使用(yong)(yong)時橫(heng)握把手,左推右(you)抹,是(shi)攤(tan)(tan)煎(jian)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)主(zhu)要工(gong)具。推子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(又(you)稱(cheng)耙(pa)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi))類似無齒耙(pa)。將長方竹片(pian),上面垂直(zhi)(zhi)按上一個把手,可以用(yong)(yong)手拖(tuo)曳,也(ye)就是(shi)用(yong)(yong)來“攤(tan)(tan)”煎(jian)餅(bing)的(de)(de)(de)。油鬧子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi),用(yong)(yong)白(bai)凈棉紗(sha),按做口(kou)罩的(de)(de)(de)方法疊(die)它三(san)十(shi)來層,壓實,用(yong)(yong)棉線細細密密的(de)(de)(de)納牢后(hou),放入清(qing)油(花生(sheng)油)里浸透(tou),再拿出(chu)來晾干即(ji)可使用(yong)(yong)。其(qi)它如和面、發酵等工(gong)具可因時、因地、因人(ren)而異(yi)。
加工(gong)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),當地(di)人稱“攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”。攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)一(yi)項專門的(de)(de)技(ji)藝,做法(fa)有刮(gua)(gua)、攤(tan)(tan)(tan)、滾、搟(xian)等多種制作(zuo)方法(fa)。加工(gong)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)首先要(yao)制糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu),將(jiang)(jiang)所(suo)(suo)用(yong)(yong)原料(liao)加水,用(yong)(yong)石磨推成(cheng)糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)狀(zhuang),當地(di)人把這叫“糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)”。糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)稠(chou)了,勺子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)起來(lai)不(bu)(bu)能順暢(chang)地(di)倒在(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang),稀(xi)了,在(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)四散流淌,稀(xi)稠(chou)適(shi)當才能攤(tan)(tan)(tan)出(chu)好的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。刮(gua)(gua)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)將(jiang)(jiang)糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)在(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang),用(yong)(yong)光滑的(de)(de)木(mu)片把面糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)開,刮(gua)(gua)平,刮(gua)(gua)薄,刮(gua)(gua)均(jun)勻。漏了的(de)(de)地(di)方,挑(tiao)一(yi)點(dian)糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)填上(shang),順手(shou)(shou)一(yi)抹(mo),天衣無(wu)縫(feng)。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)熟時(shi)(shi),周(zhou)邊會自(zi)動卷起,順手(shou)(shou)揭(jie)起來(lai)即(ji)可。滾煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)(ze)是(shi)將(jiang)(jiang)糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)和成(cheng)不(bu)(bu)軟不(bu)(bu)硬(ying)的(de)(de)面團,直接在(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)滾,依靠鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)熱度(du)把面團沾在(zai)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)一(yi)層(ceng),然(ran)后再(zai)用(yong)(yong)刮(gua)(gua)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)一(yi)抹(mo)即(ji)成(cheng)。攤(tan)(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)用(yong)(yong)耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(推子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi))將(jiang)(jiang)舀(yao)到鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)的(de)(de)面糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)從(cong)里到外(wai)或從(cong)外(wai)到里均(jun)勻攤(tan)(tan)(tan)一(yi)圈,煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)所(suo)(suo)到之處就會在(zai)熱鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)被迅(xun)速(su)的(de)(de)凝固,耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)長短正(zheng)好等于鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)半徑,所(suo)(suo)以(yi)耙子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)繞場(chang)一(yi)周(zhou),就成(cheng)了一(yi)張煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)制做好后立即(ji)加工(gong),則(ze)(ze)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)甜(tian),等糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)發酵稍微有點(dian)酸(suan)味時(shi)(shi)再(zai)加工(gong),就是(shi)酸(suan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。不(bu)(bu)論使用(yong)(yong)那種方法(fa),手(shou)(shou)要(yao)麻利(li),火(huo)候還要(yao)適(shi)當。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很(hen)薄,很(hen)容(rong)易(yi)熟,火(huo)候大了或揭(jie)得慢了,煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)會焦糊(hu)(hu)(hu)(hu),火(huo)候小(xiao)了或揭(jie)得快(kuai)了,煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)(ze)不(bu)(bu)熟,所(suo)(suo)以(yi)加工(gong)一(yi)張好煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很(hen)有技(ji)巧,也(ye)很(hen)不(bu)(bu)容(rong)易(yi)。揭(jie)完一(yi)張煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),要(yao)用(yong)(yong)油鬧子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)往(wang)(wang)鏊(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上(shang)抹(mo)油,然(ran)后烙下一(yi)張煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。好的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)要(yao)薄如白紙,厚度(du)均(jun)勻,餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)面完整。在(zai)臨沂加工(gong)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)往(wang)(wang)往(wang)(wang)是(shi)家庭主婦(fu)的(de)(de)活兒,過(guo)去(qu)女孩(hai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)到了能干活的(de)(de)年紀,第一(yi)樣學的(de)(de)就是(shi)制作(zuo)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),過(guo)了門的(de)(de)時(shi)(shi)候,公婆要(yao)考察新媳(xi)婦(fu)會不(bu)(bu)會做活兒,只要(yao)攤(tan)(tan)(tan)一(yi)次煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)就知(zhi)道了。
一些廠家為(wei)了提高煎餅的產量,使(shi)用機器像造紙(zhi)一樣制作煎餅,這種煎餅雖然也很(hen)好吃,但其樣式、形狀、手感(gan)、味道均不(bu)如手工煎餅。
煎餅(bing)的吃法也很多。
煎餅卷大(da)蔥(cong)是眾人皆知的典(dian)(dian)型山東吃法,吃的時候,將(jiang)又圓又薄的一(yi)(yi)大(da)張(zhang)煎餅,放上一(yi)(yi)棵洗凈(jing)的大(da)蔥(cong),沾上大(da)醬(jiang),然后順勢一(yi)(yi)卷即(ji)可。電影(ying)《紅日(ri)》中就有華野戰士吃煎餅卷大(da)蔥(cong)的經典(dian)(dian)鏡頭。
現今生活好了,吃(chi)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)配(pei)的(de)(de)(de)菜(cai)肴也(ye)多了,卷豬頭肉(rou)(rou),卷芹菜(cai)牛肉(rou)(rou)渣,卷炸(zha)黃鯽(ji)子魚(yu),卷鮮香(xiang)椿、腌咸菜(cai)、蒜(suan)薹、辣椒等等。美食家們還在做煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)上(shang)(shang)下(xia)功夫(fu),有的(de)(de)(de)把雞蛋(dan)(dan)打在剛烙好還未下(xia)鏊子的(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)上(shang)(shang);有的(de)(de)(de)將大棗煮熟,攪在“糊”中(zhong),做成(cheng)營養豐富,口(kou)感軟(ruan)(ruan)甜的(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing);有的(de)(de)(de)把韭菜(cai)、雞蛋(dan)(dan)、豆腐(fu)炒好,放入(ru)新(xin)攤的(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)中(zhong),再用少量油煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)過(guo),做成(cheng)菜(cai)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)等等。吃(chi)過(guo)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)人(ren)都(dou)知道,剛剛從鏊子上(shang)(shang)揭下(xia)的(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)是酥脆(cui)松軟(ruan)(ruan)的(de)(de)(de),可以(yi)將其卷著吃(chi),所以(yi)才有煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)“卷”一(yi)(yi)說。冷卻(que)的(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)由于(yu)失(shi)去水分會很干,但(dan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)往往是疊在一(yi)(yi)起的(de)(de)(de),漸(jian)漸(jian)又會返潮而變(bian)得柔軟(ruan)(ruan),上(shang)(shang)面(mian)蓋上(shang)(shang)布就會可以(yi)長期保持。待(dai)吃(chi)時,只(zhi)要揭一(yi)(yi)張就成(cheng),非(fei)常(chang)方便。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)(de)特性是失(shi)去水分后會變(bian)得干、脆(cui)、硬,即使五(wu)尺高的(de)(de)(de)壯漢吃(chi)起來也(ye)會累的(de)(de)(de)青筋(jin)暴露。可是用開水一(yi)(yi)泡,便立即柔軟(ruan)(ruan)如面(mian),兒童、老人(ren)食用十(shi)分便利。