煎(jian)餅食品(pin)有著悠(you)久(jiu)的歷史的傳(chuan)統面食,早(zao)在(zai)春秋(qiu)戰國時期,山東沂(yi)蒙人(ren)民即開(kai)始(shi)食用(yong)煎(jian)餅,相傳(chuan)孟(meng)姜女哭長城,所(suo)帶(dai)食物(wu)即煎(jian)餅。清代(dai)蒲松(song)齡在(zai)其《煎(jian)餅賦》中(zhong)寫(xie)到,“煎(jian)餅則合(he)米豆為(wei)(wei)之,齊人(ren)以代(dai)面食”,“圓如(ru)銀(yin)月,大(da)如(ru)銅缸,薄(bo)如(ru)剡(yan)溪之紙,色如(ru)黃鶴之翎(ling),此煎(jian)餅之定制也”。文中(zhong),蒲松(song)齡用(yong)它那(nei)如(ru)掾大(da)筆(bi),把煎(jian)餅的形狀、色澤、大(da)小、原料、制作以及味道、功(gong)用(yong)等描述得(de)淋漓盡致。千百年來,人(ren)們在(zai)實(shi)踐(jian)中(zhong)不斷改進工藝,增添品(pin)種,使(shi)其成為(wei)(wei)久(jiu)盛不衰、享譽海內外的名(ming)優食品(pin)。
制(zhi)作煎(jian)餅有(you)獨特的(de)(de)(de)工具,主要有(you)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)、攤子(zi)、推(tui)子(zi)、油(you)鬧子(zi)等。鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi),系用(yong)生鐵鑄造,直徑一(yi)(yi)米,中間微凸略厚,邊緣(yuan)較(jiao)薄,形(xing)(xing)如禿(tu)頭(tou)鍋蓋,上(shang)面(mian)平整光(guang)滑,下面(mian)有(you)三支角可(ke)以(yi)作為(wei)支撐(cheng)。過去的(de)(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi)是(shi)固定的(de)(de)(de),有(you)人(ren)又制(zhi)出(chu)了(le)可(ke)以(yi)轉動的(de)(de)(de)鏊(ao)(ao)子(zi),以(yi)提(ti)高產量(liang)。攤子(zi)(又稱刮子(zi)),用(yong)木片做(zuo)成,呈(cheng)長方(fang)形(xing)(xing),長寬比例為(wei)2:1,把(ba)手(shou)居中,看起來(lai)(lai)很(hen)像一(yi)(yi)把(ba)砍刀,而且更光(guang)滑,使(shi)用(yong)時(shi)橫握把(ba)手(shou),左推(tui)右抹,是(shi)攤煎(jian)餅的(de)(de)(de)主要工具。推(tui)子(zi)(又稱耙子(zi))類似(si)無齒耙。將長方(fang)竹(zhu)片,上(shang)面(mian)垂直按上(shang)一(yi)(yi)個把(ba)手(shou),可(ke)以(yi)用(yong)手(shou)拖曳(ye),也就是(shi)用(yong)來(lai)(lai)“攤”煎(jian)餅的(de)(de)(de)。油(you)鬧子(zi),用(yong)白(bai)凈棉紗,按做(zuo)口罩的(de)(de)(de)方(fang)法疊它三十來(lai)(lai)層,壓實,用(yong)棉線(xian)細細密密的(de)(de)(de)納牢后,放(fang)入清油(you)(花(hua)生油(you))里浸透(tou),再拿出(chu)來(lai)(lai)晾干(gan)即可(ke)使(shi)用(yong)。其它如和面(mian)、發酵等工具可(ke)因時(shi)、因地、因人(ren)而異。
加工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),當地人(ren)稱(cheng)“攤(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)”。攤(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)項專門(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)技(ji)藝,做(zuo)法有刮、攤(tan)(tan)、滾、搟等多種制作方法。加工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)首先要(yao)制糊(hu),將(jiang)所(suo)(suo)用(yong)(yong)原料(liao)加水,用(yong)(yong)石磨推成糊(hu)狀(zhuang),當地人(ren)把這叫(jiao)“糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)”。糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)稠(chou)了(le)(le)(le),勺子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)(yao)起(qi)來(lai)不(bu)(bu)(bu)能(neng)順(shun)暢地倒在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上,稀了(le)(le)(le),在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上四散(san)流淌,稀稠(chou)適當才能(neng)攤(tan)(tan)出好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。刮煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)將(jiang)糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)舀(yao)(yao)在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上,用(yong)(yong)光(guang)滑的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)木片把面糊(hu)攤(tan)(tan)開,刮平,刮薄,刮均(jun)勻(yun)(yun)。漏(lou)了(le)(le)(le)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)地方,挑一(yi)(yi)(yi)點糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)填上,順(shun)手一(yi)(yi)(yi)抹(mo),天衣無縫。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)熟時(shi),周(zhou)邊會(hui)自動卷起(qi),順(shun)手揭(jie)(jie)起(qi)來(lai)即可。滾煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)是(shi)將(jiang)糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)和成不(bu)(bu)(bu)軟不(bu)(bu)(bu)硬的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面團(tuan),直接在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上滾,依靠鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)熱(re)度把面團(tuan)沾在(zai)(zai)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上一(yi)(yi)(yi)層,然后再用(yong)(yong)刮子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)一(yi)(yi)(yi)抹(mo)即成。攤(tan)(tan)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)用(yong)(yong)耙(pa)(pa)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)(推子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi))將(jiang)舀(yao)(yao)到鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)面糊(hu)從里(li)到外(wai)或(huo)從外(wai)到里(li)均(jun)勻(yun)(yun)攤(tan)(tan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)圈,煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)糊(hu)所(suo)(suo)到之處就(jiu)會(hui)在(zai)(zai)熱(re)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上被(bei)迅速(su)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)凝固,耙(pa)(pa)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)長短正好(hao)等于(yu)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)半徑,所(suo)(suo)以(yi)耙(pa)(pa)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)繞場一(yi)(yi)(yi)周(zhou),就(jiu)成了(le)(le)(le)一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)制做(zuo)好(hao)后立即加工,則(ze)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)甜(tian),等糊(hu)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)發酵(jiao)稍微有點酸味(wei)時(shi)再加工,就(jiu)是(shi)酸煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。不(bu)(bu)(bu)論使用(yong)(yong)那種方法,手要(yao)麻利,火候(hou)(hou)還(huan)要(yao)適當。煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很(hen)(hen)薄,很(hen)(hen)容易熟,火候(hou)(hou)大了(le)(le)(le)或(huo)揭(jie)(jie)得慢了(le)(le)(le),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)會(hui)焦糊(hu),火候(hou)(hou)小了(le)(le)(le)或(huo)揭(jie)(jie)得快了(le)(le)(le),煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)則(ze)不(bu)(bu)(bu)熟,所(suo)(suo)以(yi)加工一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)好(hao)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)很(hen)(hen)有技(ji)巧,也很(hen)(hen)不(bu)(bu)(bu)容易。揭(jie)(jie)完一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),要(yao)用(yong)(yong)油鬧子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)往(wang)鏊(ao)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)上抹(mo)油,然后烙下一(yi)(yi)(yi)張(zhang)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)。好(hao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)要(yao)薄如白紙(zhi),厚(hou)度均(jun)勻(yun)(yun),餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)面完整。在(zai)(zai)臨沂加工煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)往(wang)往(wang)是(shi)家庭主婦的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)活兒,過(guo)去女(nv)孩(hai)子(zi)(zi)(zi)(zi)到了(le)(le)(le)能(neng)干活的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)年紀(ji),第一(yi)(yi)(yi)樣學的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)就(jiu)是(shi)制作煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing),過(guo)了(le)(le)(le)門(men)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)時(shi)候(hou)(hou),公婆要(yao)考察新(xin)媳婦會(hui)不(bu)(bu)(bu)會(hui)做(zuo)活兒,只要(yao)攤(tan)(tan)一(yi)(yi)(yi)次煎(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)就(jiu)知道了(le)(le)(le)。
一些廠(chang)家(jia)為了提高煎餅(bing)的產(chan)量,使用機器像造紙一樣(yang)制作煎餅(bing),這(zhe)種煎餅(bing)雖然(ran)也很好吃,但其樣(yang)式、形狀、手感、味道均不如(ru)手工(gong)煎餅(bing)。
煎餅的吃法也很多。
煎餅卷大蔥是眾人(ren)皆知的典型山東吃法,吃的時候,將又(you)圓又(you)薄(bo)的一(yi)大張煎餅,放(fang)上一(yi)棵(ke)洗凈(jing)的大蔥,沾(zhan)上大醬,然后順勢一(yi)卷即可。電(dian)影《紅(hong)日》中就有華野戰士吃煎餅卷大蔥的經典鏡頭。
現今生活好了,吃煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)配的(de)(de)菜肴(yao)也(ye)多了,卷(juan)豬頭(tou)肉,卷(juan)芹菜牛肉渣,卷(juan)炸黃鯽子(zi)魚,卷(juan)鮮香椿、腌咸菜、蒜薹(tai)、辣椒等(deng)等(deng)。美食(shi)家們還在(zai)做煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)上下(xia)(xia)功夫,有(you)的(de)(de)把(ba)雞蛋打(da)在(zai)剛(gang)烙(luo)好還未下(xia)(xia)鏊子(zi)的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)上;有(you)的(de)(de)將大棗煮熟,攪(jiao)在(zai)“糊”中,做成營養豐富,口感軟(ruan)甜的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing);有(you)的(de)(de)把(ba)韭(jiu)菜、雞蛋、豆腐炒好,放入新攤的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)中,再用(yong)(yong)少量油煎(jian)(jian)過,做成菜煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)等(deng)等(deng)。吃過煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)人(ren)都知(zhi)道,剛(gang)剛(gang)從鏊子(zi)上揭下(xia)(xia)的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)是(shi)酥脆松軟(ruan)的(de)(de),可(ke)以將其卷(juan)著吃,所以才有(you)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)“卷(juan)”一說。冷(leng)卻的(de)(de)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)由于失(shi)去水分(fen)(fen)會很(hen)干(gan),但(dan)煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)往往是(shi)疊在(zai)一起(qi)的(de)(de),漸(jian)(jian)漸(jian)(jian)又會返潮(chao)而變(bian)得柔(rou)軟(ruan),上面蓋上布(bu)就會可(ke)以長期保持。待(dai)吃時,只要揭一張就成,非常方(fang)便。煎(jian)(jian)餅(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)(bing)的(de)(de)特性是(shi)失(shi)去水分(fen)(fen)后會變(bian)得干(gan)、脆、硬,即使五尺高的(de)(de)壯漢吃起(qi)來也(ye)會累的(de)(de)青(qing)筋(jin)暴(bao)露。可(ke)是(shi)用(yong)(yong)開水一泡,便立即柔(rou)軟(ruan)如面,兒童、老(lao)人(ren)食(shi)用(yong)(yong)十分(fen)(fen)便利。