每(mei)年(nian)(nian)中(zhong)秋一過(guo),農村家家戶戶把糯米(mi)飯(fan)涼干(gan)(gan),炒(chao)成(cheng)爆花(hua)米(mi),用(yong)米(mi)糖拌粘,切成(cheng)塊(kuai)塊(kuai),待客解茶(cha)。這種糕點(dian)(dian)叫做(zuo)“炒(chao)米(mi)糖”、“米(mi)花(hua)糖塊(kuai)”。更講(jiang)究者,用(yong)上(shang)等糯米(mi)飯(fan)做(zuo)成(cheng)凍米(mi)“干(gan)(gan)飯(fan)”,再用(yong)清茶(cha)油煎泡“干(gan)(gan)飯(fan)”,使“干(gan)(gan)飯(fan),變成(cheng)爆花(hua)米(mi),再用(yong)飴糖粘結,冷卻后用(yong)薄刀(dao)切成(cheng)小塊(kuai),前(qian)后經過(guo)半成(cheng)品和(he)成(cheng)品共20個工序加工而(er)成(cheng),俗稱“小切”。解放(fang)初(chu),改名為(wei)“凍米(mi)糖”、豐城凍米(mi)糖自(zi)農歷八月十六日(ri)上(shang)市,到次年(nian)(nian)二(er)、三月為(wei)止,一直行銷本(ben)省及瀘、港、南洋,是茶(cha)會(hui)中(zhong)的(de)應時細點(dian)(dian),又是舊歷年(nian)(nian)間拜年(nian)(nian)送禮(li)的(de)佳(jia)品。
豐(feng)城凍(dong)米糖,以(yi)純糯米、凈茶油(you)、砂白糖為(wei)主要原(yuan)料(liao)。以(yi)透(tou)明飴糖、芳香(xiang)桂花、紅(hong)細柚絲為(wei)輔助原(yuan)料(liao),它的特點是選料(liao)嚴格,曾流傳著(zhu)這(zhe)樣的話:“新干的糯谷米,龍泉的清茶油(you),江蘇的桂花香(xiang),臺灣的白砂糖”。具有香(xiang)、甜、脆、酥的特色。四角平整,潔白晶亮,紅(hong)柚絲均勻(yun)鋪面,小塊切包(bao),松脆爽口,落(luo)口消溶,無渣無屑,不粘牙、不塞牙,回(hui)味無窮。
1.原料配(pei)方(fang)。凍米28公(gong)斤(jin)(jin)(jin),白砂糖9公(gong)斤(jin)(jin)(jin),糯米飴糖8.5公(gong)斤(jin)(jin)(jin),桂花、紅絲少量,茶(cha)油10公(gong)斤(jin)(jin)(jin)。
2.工藝流程。
⑴制凍米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi):選用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)顆粒飽(bao)滿、體長潔白的(de)糯(nuo)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)竹蘿裝上(shang)(shang)放(fang)于清水池中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)淘洗干(gan)凈后(hou)倒入(ru)清水池中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)浸泡14-15小(xiao)時(shi),再(zai)撈至(zhi)(zhi)竹籮(luo)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)清水沖洗。與此(ci)同時(shi),洗凈木甑(蒸(zheng)籠),并置(zhi)于鍋(guo)中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)加熱(re),待(dai)甑熱(re)后(hou),徐徐倒入(ru)瀝(li)干(gan)的(de)糯(nuo)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)(見汽倒米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),倒后(hou)立(li)即(ji)扒平)。待(dai)甑中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)面(mian)冒大汽時(shi),加蓋(gai)蒸(zheng)煮約40分鐘后(hou)揭蓋(gai)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)反復捏搓蒸(zheng)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi),手(shou)感柔軟(ruan)無硬心米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)時(shi),即(ji)可出甑放(fang)在蔑(mie)盤中(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)(zhong)扒平冷卻,經10小(xiao)時(shi)后(hou)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)木鏟翻拌一(yi)遍,再(zai)經5--6小(xiao)時(shi),蒸(zheng)米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)變硬即(ji)為凍米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)。此(ci)時(shi),用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手(shou)搓揉團塊(kuai)(kuai)即(ji)散,要(yao)馬上(shang)(shang)將所有團塊(kuai)(kuai)搓散,井移至(zhi)(zhi)曬場上(shang)(shang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)蔑(mie)墊曬干(gan),曬至(zhi)(zhi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)牙齒一(yi)咬即(ji)為兩段時(shi)為止。由此(ci)得半(ban)透明的(de)干(gan)燥凍米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)籽。頭年(nian)(nian)加工的(de)凍米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)最(zui)好留作次年(nian)(nian)使用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong),因貯(zhu)藏半(ban)年(nian)(nian)至(zhi)(zhi)一(yi)年(nian)(nian)凍米(mi)(mi)(mi)(mi)質地松(song)脆,品質更佳。
⑵炸(zha)米(mi)(mi)花(hua):將100--150公斤(jin)茶(cha)油(you)倒(dao)入(ru)鐵(tie)鍋中加熱(re)至沸(110--120℃),加入(ru)800--1000克(ke)篩(shai)去雜質(zhi)的(de)凍(dong)米(mi)(mi)油(you)炸(zha),待凍(dong)米(mi)(mi)起泡(pao)成米(mi)(mi)花(hua)時,用漏勺(shao)撈起,擱置一邊(bian)瀝(li)油(you),如此(ci)循環(huan)操作(zuo),每炸(zha)3-5鍋需撈去油(you)鍋中的(de)雜質(zhi),避免油(you)色變深,影響(xiang)米(mi)(mi)花(hua)質(zhi)量(liang)。米(mi)(mi)花(hua)瀝(li)干油(you)后,立即倒(dao)入(ru)蔑(mie)盤中攤開冷(leng)卻,接著過篩(shai)去掉硬(ying)米(mi)(mi)花(hua)和碎米(mi)(mi)花(hua)。按(an)照木架容量(liang)的(de)大小,稱(cheng)好米(mi)(mi)花(hua),分別裝(zhuang)入(ru)各個(ge)籮中備用。
⑶熬糖(tang)拌料(liao):按比(bi)例(li)將(jiang)白砂糖(tang)、飴糖(tang)和清(qing)水(shui)倒入(ru)(ru)熬糖(tang)鍋中,加(jia)熱熬至(zhi)40℃左右,此時須逐漸降低爐溫,并按量加(jia)入(ru)(ru)糖(tang)桂花和米花,拌和均勻。拌和的動(dong)作要迅速,若時間過久,糖(tang)液(ye)中的水(shui)分(fen)蒸發過多,就會使成(cheng)品"變沙(sha)",粘合(he)不攏,而影響成(cheng)品質量。
⑷上(shang)架(jia)切片(pian):將(jiang)拌勻的(de)混合料趁(chen)熱(re)鏟(chan)至案(an)板上(shang)的(de)木架(jia)內,并用手蘸(zhan)少量(liang)的(de)水將(jiang)米花抹平(ping)(ping)整(zheng),撒上(shang)少量(liang)的(de)紅絲,然后(hou)用木滾筒加微力滾平(ping)(ping)。接著取(qu)去木架(jia),用利(li)刀劃條(tiao)切塊即為成品。