玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)全稱“玄天(tian)玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)”,俗稱“老營宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)”。相傳(chuan)真武神得(de)道升天(tian)后(hou)曾被玉(yu)(yu)皇(huang)大帝封(feng)為(wei)“玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)相師”,故玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)建(jian)成后(hou),被永樂皇(huang)帝欽定為(wei)“玄天(tian)玉(yu)(yu)女宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)”。位于世界文化(hua)遺產(chan)道教圣地的(de)(de)(de)武當山(shan)腳下(xia)(xia),中國(guo)湖北(bei)省(sheng)十堰市武當山(shan)經濟旅游特區。是(shi)(shi)武當山(shan)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)群中最大的(de)(de)(de)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)殿之一,位于老營的(de)(de)(de)南山(shan)腳下(xia)(xia),距玄岳(yue)門(men)西約(yue)4公(gong)里,襄渝鐵路順著宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)前(qian)橫貫(guan)而(er)過。現存(cun)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)及遺址主要有(you)(you)2道長1036米的(de)(de)(de)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)墻、兩座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)碑(bei)(bei)亭、里樂城的(de)(de)(de)五座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)殿基和清代重(zhong)建(jian)的(de)(de)(de)父(fu)母殿、云(yun)堂以及東天(tian)門(men)、西天(tian)門(men)、北(bei)天(tian)門(men)遺址。這些殘存(cun)的(de)(de)(de)遺址,到今天(tian)仍有(you)(you)很強的(de)(de)(de)感染力,頗值得(de)觀賞(shang)。共有(you)(you)亭臺樓(lou)榭宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)殿等(deng)建(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)2200余間.宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)門(men)內(nei)外有(you)(you)四座(zuo)(zuo)(zuo)碑(bei)(bei)亭,巍然(ran)對峙。其規模之大,可比秦朝(chao)阿(a)(a)房(fang)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong),由此(ci)可見玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)當年是(shi)(shi)何等(deng)的(de)(de)(de)氣派。古人贊譽(yu)玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)是(shi)(shi)“隱三臺十州之羽客,度九州萬國(guo)之蒼生”的(de)(de)(de)圣地;明(ming)朝(chao)著明(ming)文學(xue)家王世貞(zhen)也不(bu)禁贊嘆(tan):“玉(yu)(yu)虛(xu)(xu)仿(fang)佛(fo)秦阿(a)(a)房(fang)”。
模宏大的宮(gong)(gong)城,俗有(you)“七(qi)十(shi)二(er)院(yuan)落,七(qi)十(shi)二(er)井,這(zhe)院(yuan)不吃那(nei)院(yuan)水”之說(shuo)。按周禮天子五門、左右(you)東西宮(gong)(gong)格局布局,充分(fen)的顯示出(chu)道(dao)教在明朝(chao)地位,被(bei)古人譽(yu)之“山中(zhong)甲宮(gong)(gong)”。玉虛宮(gong)(gong)前宮(gong)(gong)正(zheng)殿前豎碑(bei)兩座(zuo)(zuo),后(hou)宮(gong)(gong)地勢與前宮(gong)(gong)殿脊齊平,四合院(yuan)布局。塔院(yuan)位于后(hou)宮(gong)(gong)五十(shi)米(mi)(mi)左右(you),有(you)塔四座(zuo)(zuo),其(qi)中(zhong)三座(zuo)(zuo)并(bing)列成(cheng)“一”字,相隔約七(qi)米(mi)(mi)。建(jian)筑(zhu)形式相同,八角形,磚結構(gou),高(gao)越七(qi)米(mi)(mi)。
主(zhu)(zhu)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)仿故宮(gong)“三朝(chao)五(wu)門(men)”制(zhi),平(ping)面布局呈三路五(wu)進(jin),沿中軸線利用青石(shi)崇(chong)臺層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)迭(die)砌遞進(jin),營(ying)(ying)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)山門(men)、龍虎(hu)殿(dian)(dian)、朝(chao)拜(bai)殿(dian)(dian),最終把(ba)玄(xuan)帝大殿(dian)(dian)推向高(gao)潮,以(yi)(yi)(yi)父(fu)母殿(dian)(dian)作精(jing)悍的結尾。同時又橫向擴展,營(ying)(ying)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)東(dong)(dong)西(xi)御(yu)碑亭(ting)(四(si)座)、東(dong)(dong)西(xi)焚帛(bo)爐、東(dong)(dong)西(xi)配殿(dian)(dian)、廊(lang)廡、觀星(xing)臺、啟圣殿(dian)(dian)、元君殿(dian)(dian),企圖將(jiang)群(qun)(qun)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)形成(cheng)高(gao)低錯落有致(zhi),形制(zhi)繩墨合(he)度,院落蔓(man)延(yan)相通的建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)格(ge)局,不僅(jin)體(ti)(ti)現了明代建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)凝重(zhong)、嚴謹的風格(ge),更隱喻著(zhu)道(dao)家崇(chong)尚自(zi)(zi)然(ran)(ran)、順(shun)應自(zi)(zi)然(ran)(ran)、以(yi)(yi)(yi)人(ren)為本、天(tian)人(ren)合(he)一(yi)的玄(xuan)妙思(si)想。宮(gong)之內外(wai)鋪以(yi)(yi)(yi)配殿(dian)(dian)、道(dao)院、樓(lou)閣,其(qi)(qi)(qi)間以(yi)(yi)(yi)小巧精(jing)致(zhi)的亭(ting)、臺、池(chi)、壇作穿插襯(chen)托,著(zhu)力塑造出群(qun)(qun)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)烘(hong)托主(zhu)(zhu)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)的高(gao)大雄偉(wei),主(zhu)(zhu)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)映襯(chen)群(qun)(qun)體(ti)(ti)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)的井然(ran)(ran)有序,可謂獨(du)具匠心(xin)。玉帶(dai)河自(zi)(zi)內樂城(cheng)穿城(cheng)而過,恰似一(yi)根飄逸的玉帶(dai)飛揚在龍虎(hu)殿(dian)(dian)前,其(qi)(qi)(qi)上修(xiu)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)仙源橋,兩側立(li)蓮瓣(ban)石(shi)榴(liu)頭攔(lan)望施以(yi)(yi)(yi)護(hu)欄。城(cheng)外(wai)建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)有東(dong)(dong)西(xi)宮(gong)、泰山廟、火星(xing)廟、望仙樓(lou)、張仙洞(無梁(liang)殿(dian)(dian))、水(shui)簾洞、華陽亭(ting)、寮室、浴室(娘娘澡堂)、齋堂等(deng),宮(gong)外(wai)復設東(dong)(dong)、西(xi)、北三座天(tian)門(men)。各類建(jian)(jian)(jian)(jian)筑(zhu)(zhu)按其(qi)(qi)(qi)序列,恪守其(qi)(qi)(qi)位(wei),盡顯布局合(he)理,層(ceng)(ceng)(ceng)次分(fen)明。
《武當山志》記載(zai):最大(da)的赑(bi)屃(xi)通(tong)長6.06米(mi),高2.85米(mi),寬2.35米(mi);御(yu)碑(bei)高6米(mi),寬3.5米(mi),通(tong)高9.03米(mi),重達100多(duo)噸,是國(guo)內罕(han)見的赑(bi)屃(xi)馱御(yu)碑(bei),比北京(jing)明十三(san)陵(ling)的定(ding)陵(ling)、長陵(ling)的赑(bi)屃(xi)馱御(yu)碑(bei)要(yao)高大(da)完美得多(duo)。
外樂城(cheng):泰(tai)山廟,御(yu)碑亭(ting)。
紫禁城:宮門,宮墻(qiang),小宮門玉帶河(he),玉帶橋(qiao),御碑亭。
里樂城:琉璃(li)八字墻,小宮門,宮墻,琉璃(li)焚帛爐,神壇,父母殿。
內(nei)羅城(cheng)、大(da)宮(gong)(gong)門(men)(men)(men)、、碑(bei)樓(lou)、云堂(tang)等43間廟房和龍虎殿、十方堂(tang)、大(da)殿等建筑(zhu)基址等。大(da)宮(gong)(gong)門(men)(men)(men)磚(zhuan)木結構(gou),面闊(kuo)14.2米,進深7.8米,單檐(yan)歇山(shan)綠琉(liu)(liu)璃瓦頂,三道拱券門(men)(men)(men),石雕(diao)瓊花(hua)(hua)須彌座,門(men)(men)(men)前為青石海墁月臺,周(zhou)圍設石望柱和欄板。兩(liang)山(shan)接(jie)八(ba)字琉(liu)(liu)璃瓊花(hua)(hua)壁(bi)及宮(gong)(gong)墻,紫禁城(cheng)宮(gong)(gong)墻周(zhou)長1036米,高(gao)6.22米。紫禁城(cheng)內(nei)外(wai)共(gong)設御碑(bei)樓(lou)4座,左右對稱,樓(lou)頂木結構(gou)無存(cun)。四碑(bei)樓(lou)內(nei)還(huan)附立(li)明皇室歷代祭祀碑(bei)20余(yu)通。
玉虛宮位于武(wu)當山(shan)展旗峰北陲(chui),群(qun)山(shan)環繞,規(gui)模廣(guang)闊,形(xing)勢雄偉。左引崇崗, 右浚曲水,前列(lie)(lie)翠屏,后枕(zhen)華麓,風水術所要求的主山(shan)(亦稱靠山(shan))、 青龍山(shan)、白虎(hu)山(shan)、案山(shan)、朝(chao)(chao)山(shan)、水口等(deng)一(yi)(yi)應俱全,地勢殊勝。宮內(nei)建筑等(deng)級(ji)最高(gao)、規(gui)模最大(da)的當屬玄帝殿,明·永樂(le)十一(yi)(yi)年敕(chi)建,坐南面北,建在高(gao)4.30米石(shi)臺(tai)基之(zhi)(zhi)上,前設“凸”字形(xing)月臺(tai)。面闊七間,進深五間,柱(zhu)網排列(lie)(lie)為三環48棵柱(zhu)頂石(shi),檐柱(zhu)柱(zhu)徑0.74米,金柱(zhu)柱(zhu)徑0.90米,二尺(chi)金磚墁地。大(da)殿與朝(chao)(chao)拜殿之(zhi)(zhi)間院落南北兩側設回(hui)廊,中(zhong)間設御道(dao),回(hui)廊專供香客、游人朝(chao)(chao)拜真武(wu)祖(zu)師(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)用,御道(dao)則用于皇親國戚、欽(qin)差大(da)臣朝(chao)(chao)拜真武(wu)祖(zu)師(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)用,這種規(gui)制(zhi)在武(wu)當山(shan)古建筑群(qun)內(nei)還體(ti)現在遇真宮、五龍宮等(deng)。
玉虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)不(bu)僅在(zai)(zai)建(jian)筑藝術上嘆為(wei)觀(guan)止,同時(shi)在(zai)(zai)選址(zhi)和布局(ju)上也體現(xian)了中國古代(dai)風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)觀(guan)念,堪(kan)稱一絕。該宮(gong)(gong)建(jian)筑由皇室工部設計,注重環(huan)(huan)境(jing)選擇(ze),講究山(shan)(shan)(shan)形水(shui)(shui)(shui)脈,聚氣(qi)(qi)(qi)藏風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)。“外山(shan)(shan)(shan)環(huan)(huan)抱者(zhe),風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)無所入(ru),而(er)內氣(qi)(qi)(qi)聚。外山(shan)(shan)(shan)虧疏者(zhe),風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)有所入(ru),而(er)內氣(qi)(qi)(qi)散。氣(qi)(qi)(qi)聚者(zhe)昌,氣(qi)(qi)(qi)散者(zhe)衰(shuai)。”玉虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)選址(zhi)于群(qun)山(shan)(shan)(shan)環(huan)(huan)抱,內聚盆地(di)(di)(di)(di),其地(di)(di)(di)(di)勢廣闊(kuo),且(qie)左引崇崗、右浚曲水(shui)(shui)(shui)、前列翠屏、后枕華麓,巧妙利用(yong)山(shan)(shan)(shan)水(shui)(shui)(shui),與風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)術中所要求(qiu)的(de)主山(shan)(shan)(shan)、案(an)山(shan)(shan)(shan)、朝山(shan)(shan)(shan)、水(shui)(shui)(shui)口一應俱全,地(di)(di)(di)(di)勢殊勝,藏風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)納氣(qi)(qi)(qi)。風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)學(xue)中講究“玉帶攬(lan)腰,氣(qi)(qi)(qi)界(jie)水(shui)(shui)(shui)則止”,意思是天地(di)(di)(di)(di)的(de)生(sheng)氣(qi)(qi)(qi)可以(yi)用(yong)水(shui)(shui)(shui),使(shi)它停(ting)留住(zhu)。因此(ci),在(zai)(zai)建(jian)筑前有環(huan)(huan)抱的(de)水(shui)(shui)(shui),就可以(yi)使(shi)氣(qi)(qi)(qi)凝(ning)聚在(zai)(zai)住(zhu)宅前,此(ci)法為(wei)理想的(de)聚氣(qi)(qi)(qi)模(mo)式。玉虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)內樂城的(de)玉帶河便采取了此(ci)種聚氣(qi)(qi)(qi)之(zhi)法。然而(er),美中不(bu)足之(zhi)處(chu)也有,玉虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)前地(di)(di)(di)(di)勢過于開闊(kuo),易走氣(qi)(qi)(qi)勢,古代(dai)風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)師便在(zai)(zai)玉虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)(gong)后山(shan)(shan)(shan)深(shen)埋四個“鎮山(shan)(shan)(shan)石鼓”以(yi)鎮風(feng)(feng)(feng)(feng)水(shui)(shui)(shui)。通過“堪(kan)輿”擇(ze)地(di)(di)(di)(di)布局(ju),群(qun)體建(jian)筑在(zai)(zai)體量和規模(mo)上與自然環(huan)(huan)境(jing)高度和諧,不(bu)僅有著“玄之(zhi)又玄”的(de)玄學(xue)色(se)彩(cai),又著實體現(xian)了道家(jia)“天人合一”的(de)思想境(jing)界(jie)
玉虛宮是武當山規模最大(da)(da)的(de)宮殿,在明(ming)代這(zhe)里就是道教活動的(de)主要場所。相傳最大(da)(da)的(de)一次是在明(ming)永樂22年(1424)舉辦的(de)一次皇室齋醮活動,長達7個晝夜,祭壇執事的(de)官員(yuan)達50多人。
每年的(de)農歷“三(san)(san)月三(san)(san)真武祖師圣誕日”都(dou)要(yao)在玉虛宮(gong)舉行盛(sheng)大(da)的(de)“三(san)(san)月三(san)(san)”廟會,屆時這(zhe)里將再(zai)現(xian)玉虛宮(gong)當年那(nei)熱鬧非凡的(de)盛(sheng)大(da)場面。
最引人(ren)注目的(de)應為內(nei)外樂(le)(le)城中(zhong)部矗立(li)的(de)四座御碑亭(ting),重(zhong)檐歇山琉璃瓦頂(ding),上(shang)(shang)檐施以(yi)(yi)七(qi)跴(cai)平座斗拱,下(xia)檐施以(yi)(yi)七(qi)跴(cai)鎦金斗拱,分(fen)(fen)別為永樂(le)(le)十一(yi)年和嘉靖三十一(yi)年敕建。亭(ting)子(zi)建在二重(zhong)石(shi)臺(tai)(tai)基(ji)(ji)上(shang)(shang),平面呈(cheng)正方形,第一(yi)層臺(tai)(tai)基(ji)(ji)為條石(shi)砌筑,第二層臺(tai)(tai)基(ji)(ji)作(zuo)石(shi)雕(diao)須彌座,四面設踏跺五(wu)級,圍石(shi)欄(lan)望柱。臺(tai)(tai)基(ji)(ji)之上(shang)(shang)復設石(shi)作(zuo)須彌座,分(fen)(fen)設四角。座基(ji)(ji)之上(shang)(shang)擱置亭(ting)子(zi)墻身(shen),之上(shang)(shang)墻體(ti)明顯收分(fen)(fen),均為磚券(quan)(quan)結構,東南西北分(fen)(fen)設四個(ge)券(quan)(quan)門(men)。亭(ting)內(nei)存放龍子(zi)赑屃,背馱巨(ju)碑,碑分(fen)(fen)別由(you)碑座、身(shen)、首三部分(fen)(fen)組成,盡顯高大莊嚴,整(zheng)體(ti)雕(diao)刻精致,通體(ti)予人(ren)以(yi)(yi)不(bu)同的(de)質感。肢、腳、尾均有明顯負重(zhong)之態(tai),栩栩如生,具(ju)有強(qiang)烈的(de)藝術感染(ran)力。
玉虛宮(gong)有兩座別具一格的琉璃八(ba)字影壁墻,一處建在山門兩側,一處建在龍(long)虎殿(dian)兩側,分別由石臺基、雙層琉璃磚雕須彌座、琉璃墻身、七層琉璃帶飛椽冰(bing)盤檐組成(cheng)。墻身正面飾(shi)以琉璃岔角、圓光,雕刻牡丹(dan)、卷草(cao)圖案。雖經(jing)500余年風雨削蝕(shi),仍碧綠丹(dan)青,從實物中不難窺(kui)出明代琉璃磚雕藝(yi)術的登(deng)峰造極(ji)。
明(ming)永樂十一年(1413年)敕(chi)建(jian)。明(ming)永樂十年,明(ming)成祖朱棣下詔“北建(jian)故宮(gong)(gong),南修武當”,隨命隆平侯張信、駙馬(ma)都尉沐昕、工部侍(shi)郎(lang)郭(guo)琎(三公)統(tong)率30萬軍民進(jin)駐(zhu)武當山(shan)(shan),安營扎寨,拉開(kai)了長達12年營建(jian)朱家皇室(shi)家廟的(de)序幕(mu)。歷(li)時12年,建(jian)成8宮(gong)(gong)、2觀、36庵堂、72巖(yan)廟等(deng)三十三組(zu)建(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun),總建(jian)筑(zhu)面(mian)積達160萬平方(fang)米(mi)。同時,朱棣從立法、定編、封山(shan)(shan)、圈地、設官、鑄(zhu)印、派軍隊駐(zhu)守和(he)派丁(ding)夫供養等(deng)方(fang)面(mian)對武當山(shan)(shan)進(jin)行全面(mian)保護,并敕(chi)封為(wei)大岳,使之成為(wei)皇家"祖宗(zong)創業棲神(shen)"之所。玉(yu)虛(xu)宮(gong)(gong)作(zuo)為(wei)營建(jian)武當山(shan)(shan)道(dao)教(jiao)宮(gong)(gong)觀建(jian)筑(zhu)群(qun)的(de)大本(ben)營——“三公”行轅,其(qi)建(jian)筑(zhu)形制、規模(mo)皆可與故宮(gong)(gong)媲美,且取之真(zhen)武大帝“玉(yu)虛(xu)師相”之美名,被賜額“玄天玉(yu)虛(xu)宮(gong)(gong)”。
嘉(jia)靖三十(shi)一年(1552年),玉(yu)虛宮在(zai)原(yuan)有建(jian)筑(zhu)規(gui)模上增修擴建(jian),自此,玉(yu)虛宮占地面(mian)積達(da)525萬平方(fang)米(mi),房(fang)屋(wu)大小(xiao)為楹(ying)2200余間,同時期的王世(shi)貞曾以“太(tai)和絕頂化城似,玉(yu)虛仿(fang)佛(fo)秦阿(a)房(fang)。”
明末清(qing)初,部分(fen)建(jian)筑毀于(yu)戰亂。清(qing)代(dai),武當山失去(qu)"皇(huang)室家廟"地位,規模(mo)逐漸縮小。
明天(tian)啟(qi)七(qi)年,即1627年,玉虛宮發生(sheng)了毀滅性火(huo)災,其主要建(jian)筑(zhu)均(jun)遭火(huo)劫(jie)。百年后,即清乾隆十年,玉虛宮再次遭到大火(huo),其附屬建(jian)筑(zhu)一并化為灰燼(jin)。
1935年夏(xia),又遇山(shan)洪暴(bao)發(fa),數十萬方(fang)沙(sha)泥直(zhi)泄玉(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong),大片(pian)房屋被吞沒,號稱南方(fang)“故宮(gong)”的(de)玉(yu)虛(xu)(xu)宮(gong)自此成一片(pian)殘垣斷(duan)壁……,現殘存建筑主要有2道(dao)長1036米的(de)宮(gong)墻、兩(liang)座(zuo)碑(bei)亭、里樂城的(de)五(wu)座(zuo)殿(dian)基和(he)清(qing)代重建的(de)父(fu)母殿(dian)、云堂(tang)以及東天門(men)(men)、西(xi)天門(men)(men)、北天門(men)(men)等遺址。
1994年,武當山古建筑群被聯合國(guo)教科文組(zu)織(zhi)列為(wei)世界(jie)文化(hua)遺(yi)產。
2001年被國(guo)務院公布為第五批全國(guo)重點文物(wu)保護單位。
黨和政府對(dui)武當山玉(yu)虛宮修復工(gong)程非常(chang)重(zhong)視,2007年(nian)6月資金投(tou)入(ru)為700萬(wan)元開工(gong)修葺,一期(qi)工(gong)程已經完成,二期(qi)維修工(gong)程也(ye)正有序進行,玉(yu)虛宮再(zai)現昔日輝(hui)煌指日可(ke)待(dai)。
據了解,為(wei)保護玉虛宮遺址,此前(qian)進(jin)行的武漢至安康(kang)鐵(tie)路(lu)增(zeng)(zeng)二線工程還(huan)專門繞道,延誤(wu)了9個月工期,并增(zeng)(zeng)加了7億元投資。